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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Verman posted:

It's not even worth the hassle of trying to scrap it, let alone pay to dump it. It's so loving heavy and I really don't want to move it. I think I understand why it ended up in the yard.

Most cast iron tubs aren't intact on their way out of a house because a sledgehammer makes quick work and many pieces out of them. You may want to do that same thing and just keep putting chunks out with your recycling.

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Angry Pie
Feb 4, 2007
Do you want a piece of me?!
Personally I'd make it into a planter or part of a garden water feature, but I've never claimed to have good taste.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Get a second tub and recreate the Cialis commercials.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


I disagree, bury that again before you get cursed.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen
I had a 4.5’ cast iron tub in terrible condition in my upstairs bathroom. For 122 year old house reasons, the bathroom has a balcony door. I tossed that beast off into the front yard.

Before I had made my way downstairs, two scrapmongers with a beat up truck had materialized beside it in the yard, and with my blessings whisked it away instantly.

What I’m saying is, wrestle it to the curb and it will vanish in no time.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Verman posted:

Cast iron tub filled with river rocks. I think it weighs 400lbs without the rocks. We removed the tub and there's all kinds of tile around the outside of it.

Previous owners. Holy gently caress. Owning a house is so fun. I 100% expected to find a body of some sort in there.
I'm wondering if it was originally put there as an amateur backyard fishpond/water feature.

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

Arsenic Lupin posted:

I'm wondering if it was originally put there as an amateur backyard fishpond/water feature.

That's my assumption

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

Tunicate posted:

That's my assumption

Same.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
Does anyone know how warranties work on construction/contractors after a house is sold? Here's our situation:

1. POs did a giant renovation (700k+) from 2019 - Spring 2021.
2. We bought the house in December 2021. There was still a punchlist of small stuff that needed to be fixed from the renovation that was being worked on.
3. We've had some small leaks in the basement that they finished, causing some damage to the walls/drywall.

The contractor has been great so far and has been helping deal with the issues/punch list stuff, but is there some sort of standard on this? The invoices list a "10 year" warranty on the work that was performed, but we don't have anything that approximates a formal warranty document. Would something like that presumably be transferable?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

How reputable is the contractor

If you have the original invoices and they don't know there was a transfer of ownership shouldn't be a problem

If they're a fly by night outfit and you open discussions telling them you're the new owner, good luck

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007


Part 2







ffff

fffff

fffuuuukkkkk this shitttttt

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

Hadlock posted:

How reputable is the contractor

If you have the original invoices and they don't know there was a transfer of ownership shouldn't be a problem

If they're a fly by night outfit and you open discussions telling them you're the new owner, good luck

Contractor is legit.

AHH F/UGH
May 25, 2002

Sanded and re-epoxied my shower today after the first time was a disaster.

Rolling it on like paint is so much easier and better that I can't believe that's not how they recommend it to be done all the time.

Tub looks good now Thumbs up emoji. Almost done with catpiss ratturd house. Showed the inside to my wife today and she approved. All that's left is getting the floor in the bathroom finished and the countertop in the kitchen and we're ready to move.

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

AHH F/UGH posted:

. Almost done with catpiss ratturd house.

Looking forward to the supercut video

EL BROMANCE
Jun 10, 2006

COWABUNGA DUDES!
🥷🐢😬



I'm trying to change insurance because the rates just keep going up and up (2017 was $2,500, last year was $4,000, this year they want $6,000). I contacted a broker and he said my options are limited to Citizens because of my roof - it's 30+ years, doesn't have hurricane clips (I'm in FL) etc. I'm contacting roofers to get them to come out and price up what's needed to either replace/repair as needed and let him know that and he says we should hold on to the renewal until the improvements have been made, and once we have plans set he can build up new quotes.

The renewal isn't until end of May, but they take the money out from my escrow in a week or so. I take it I'm best to literally do nothing and when it's all sorted it's not much of an issue to cancel a policy that's only a month or two in (I hope!) and switch over without major headaches?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

EL BROMANCE posted:

The renewal isn't until end of May, but they take the money out from my escrow in a week or so. I take it I'm best to literally do nothing and when it's all sorted it's not much of an issue to cancel a policy that's only a month or two in (I hope!) and switch over without major headaches?

The only headache will be who they send the check to for the prorated portion of the policy and who pays the new policy. Without fail one comes from/goes to escrow and the other doesn't.

EL BROMANCE
Jun 10, 2006

COWABUNGA DUDES!
🥷🐢😬



Yeah that's kinda where my concern lies too without even having to deal with this before. Just feels like an area that just kind of works in the background but could easily gently caress up at any moment, leading to nightmares trying to resolve it.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

EL BROMANCE posted:

Yeah that's kinda where my concern lies too without even having to deal with this before. Just feels like an area that just kind of works in the background but could easily gently caress up at any moment, leading to nightmares trying to resolve it.

The worst thing that happens is you pay for the new policy and the old insurer sends the check back to escrow. So try to avoid that and get your servicer to pay for the new policy. That way the worst that happens is you get the check from the old company and send it into escrow through some mechanism. That might be you submitting a check tot he right address, it might trigger an escrow review, etc, but at least you aren't out of pocket.

EL BROMANCE
Jun 10, 2006

COWABUNGA DUDES!
🥷🐢😬



Thanks, I'm going to make a note about that so it doesn't bite me in the rear end down the line.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

Yooper posted:

So this is a big question, and depends a lot on climate and design intent of the home. Modern thought has a roof deck that is well ventilated with an attic that is well insulated, but air flow is paramount. Then the living space is not vented to the attic space, and if it is this is very troublesome. The intent is to keep the roof deck the same temp as the outside air and prevent ice dams and shingle curling. This works great with modern building materials.

Go back a ways and people tried to totally seal the attic and prevent any air flow, and they kind of got by because everything was so leaky. Air infiltrated everywhere as there was no tyvek or house wrap just tar paper if you are lucky. So you end up with a shitload of icicles and huge ice dams and shingles that curl from the heat. Your house breathes and that vent fan has to pull air from somewhere. Is it inside air? Is it outside air? Is it just recirculating the attic air and not doing anything? :iiam:

The air is coming from somewhere, and that might be from the interior of your house where it draws outside air inside.

Worst case scenario you had modern houses made of SIP's without any attic, but a shitload of insulation. But these panels weren't sealed properly because of real life constraints and contractors being budget conscious. So every air gap allowed warm air from inside to meet cold air from outside and whammo, condensation under the roof decking. It was so bad that these homes had to be re-roofed and re-paneled.

If you have a living space upstairs then you are limited in how much air flow and insulation you can pack into the ceiling. Now you are into roofer land where they can add rigid foam and a ventilated gap for the deck. Spray foam in the walls does two things, one is to insulate but the other is to add an impermeable barrier. If you already have R13 or whatever insulation then going to spray foam (R3.7/in for open cell or R6.5/in for closed cell) is only going to get you a bit more insulation at best. But what it really does is prevent inside/outside air from moving. No drafts from outside to steal your heat. Ideally the outside of the home would be properly sheathed and tape sealed. This is hard to do right, while glopping in spray foam is easier.

I'd find a not lovely insulation contractor and explain your situation and see what they recommend. The answer will be different if you are in Florida, New Jersey, or Minnesota.

I'm really dumb but I'm not sure I get the question about the attic fan... it's a fan in the attic, it blows air out of the attic. Should it be blowing from somewhere else?

We had our roof replaced in 2015, should I be having roofers see if they can do rigid foam and a ventilated gap as it is now?

Again, really dumb, but it seems like the takeaway from your response is that I really can't/shouldn't do anything else, and it's one of those "it is what it is" situations. Spray foam definitely doesn't look like it'd do much - prices are all over the place, from $14k-$35k, and assuming a miraculous $50/mo savings on HVAC utility costs every month, it'd take 20+ years to break even. That plus there's no Energy Star rebate for insulation.

If utility costs go way up, it might be worth it, but it doesn't seem like it now. We're at maybe $250ish-$275ish/mo on average, gas and electric.

I'm in New Jersey - dare I ask about what'd make the answer different other than the accent?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

There are attic fans that blow air from the living space into the attic, these are also sometimes called whole-house fans. There are attic fans that just increase circulation of air within the attic, because the attic has vents to the outdoors this has the effect of moving hot air out those vents a little faster. There are attic fans that mount to a soffit vent. And, there are attic fans that mount to a hole pierced through the roof, usually near but not at the peak, and exhaust air up and out, so cooler air is drawn in through the attic's vents.

It's not the case that you can't do anything. It's just that goons in this thread can't give you the best advice, because we don't have an architecture diagram of your house, a graph of your town's average temps and humidity, and a complete understanding of your existing ventilation and insulation systems.

At best, we can advise you that you probably can get this issue addressed, if an expert does a proper evaluation. The eval you already got may have been focused only on identifying problem areas without recommending solutions, in which case, you may need another expert who can recommend solutions.

You also can't really estimate prices without that info. Given you want a cost/benefit analysis, an expert can ideally identify whether specific issues are cost-effective to address with specific available remedies.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

Leperflesh posted:

There are attic fans that blow air from the living space into the attic, these are also sometimes called whole-house fans. There are attic fans that just increase circulation of air within the attic, because the attic has vents to the outdoors this has the effect of moving hot air out those vents a little faster. There are attic fans that mount to a soffit vent. And, there are attic fans that mount to a hole pierced through the roof, usually near but not at the peak, and exhaust air up and out, so cooler air is drawn in through the attic's vents.

It's not the case that you can't do anything. It's just that goons in this thread can't give you the best advice, because we don't have an architecture diagram of your house, a graph of your town's average temps and humidity, and a complete understanding of your existing ventilation and insulation systems.

At best, we can advise you that you probably can get this issue addressed, if an expert does a proper evaluation. The eval you already got may have been focused only on identifying problem areas without recommending solutions, in which case, you may need another expert who can recommend solutions.

You also can't really estimate prices without that info. Given you want a cost/benefit analysis, an expert can ideally identify whether specific issues are cost-effective to address with specific available remedies.

Gotcha. What about the "your answer will be different if you are in Florida, Minnesota, or New Jersey" that you mentioned? Are there enough known Florida Man scammers, Garrison Keillors, and Tony Soprano wannabes doing insulation that I should worry about?

DTaeKim
Aug 16, 2009

When it rains, it pours. We're going to move out of our current house in a few months and all of a sudden two of our major appliances broke. Ended up replacing our dishwasher outright after being told it would take three weeks for a repairman to come check it out.

Our Whirlpool washing machine apparently had its drum seize after eleven years of wear and tear. I really don't want to buy a new one if we're moving soon but I might have no choice.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


If you are moving try used places or Craigslist/Facebook market place.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


MJP posted:

Gotcha. What about the "your answer will be different if you are in Florida, Minnesota, or New Jersey" that you mentioned? Are there enough known Florida Man scammers, Garrison Keillors, and Tony Soprano wannabes doing insulation that I should worry about?

The technical requirements are different. Highly humid Florida will require a different strategy than frigid Duluth. In Minnesota keeping the roof deck cool prevents ice dams, whereas in Florida you may not want any roof vents to prevent your attic from being 900 degrees. I'm not down south so my knowledge of hot-humid climates is pretty limited. Jersey is an intermediate, so could be a hybrid between the two. What works great for Florida Man would lead to a terrible failure for DuluthGoon.

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.
I replaced the shower head in our master bathroom today. It took five minutes, zero trips to the hardware store (as I already had teflon tape) and works perfectly with no leaks.


Because this is ostensibly such an easy thing to do, I'm at a cross between :smug: (supreme homeowner smugness in that everything worked the first time without a bunch of horseshit) and :stare: (it went too well something is going to explode the end is nigh hail satan).

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

MJP posted:

Gotcha. What about the "your answer will be different if you are in Florida, Minnesota, or New Jersey" that you mentioned? Are there enough known Florida Man scammers, Garrison Keillors, and Tony Soprano wannabes doing insulation that I should worry about?

No, it's more because construction practices, climate, and to a lesser but potentially significant degree building codes, are all different in those three places.

For example, my house in california is subject to 15-20 or so 100+ degree days annually: but humidity is not high on those days. It gets below zero only a handful of times a year, and never snows. This affects decisions on insulation.

That said: there are lovely bullshit contractors everywhere. The industry is rife with grift and malpractice.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Beef Of Ages posted:

I replaced the shower head in our master bathroom today. It took five minutes, zero trips to the hardware store (as I already had teflon tape) and works perfectly with no leaks.


Because this is ostensibly such an easy thing to do, I'm at a cross between :smug: (supreme homeowner smugness in that everything worked the first time without a bunch of horseshit) and :stare: (it went too well something is going to explode the end is nigh hail satan).

if you didnt have to go behind the wall, your problem was on par with an oil change.

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Oil change is way higher difficulty level your basic shower head swap is more equivalent to this

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005
Oh poo poo, I have a DIY story for you guys from during my forum vacation.

About three months ago, my 1 yr old flushed a large toy down the toilet. This of course clogged it the gently caress up nice and hard, and with it being a big, hard toy I couldn't snake it either. Too far down to reach my hand in and get it, either. The last time I called a plumber in COVID-times, I got a >$400 bill for my pleasure, and I've dealt with toilets before and figured gently caress it, I'll sort it out the way I did it in ye olden days: I'll just close the valve, drain the toilet, and then pop it off and snake it from the opposite side to unjam the toy.

So, I turn off the valve. I put a bucket under the inlet connection for where the tank water comes in, so I can drain it more easily. (No flushing, its jammed.) That's when I notice the first odd thing: instead of a screw connection onto the toilet, the water line is a quick-connect. Never seen one of those on a toilet before, but okay.

Pop the quick connect off... WATER SPRAYS EVERYWHERE. poo poo, did I gently caress it up and open the valve wider? Spin the valve the other way while trying to keep the water going into the bucket! Nope, the other way it's even faster! Now I see pieces of black plastic coming out -- the valve has completely rotted out inside and there ISN'T a valve body, basically. I scream for my wife to get in here, she comes running. I need her to keep bailing water while I throw down towels. Keep bailing! I'm running to the street shut-off.

I go out to the water cutoff. It's NOT THERE. I grab a light because it's dark out, maybe I'm just missing it in the dark. NOPE. Where it is on every other unit around me, I have nothing. I open the street boxes. Nothing in there either, just gas. I open the one buried under the plants between my unit and my neighbor's. There are two water meters in there, both connected to HIS loving UNIT. He's double-metered and I have nothing! There is no shut-off at anywhere near my unit. What the gently caress is going on?

I run back upstairs, tell my wife to hold the towels, and I slam the blasting hose back into its quick-connect. We are now soaked with water, the floor is soaked, we are no closer to fixing the goddamned toilet, and now I'm confused as gently caress about my street shutoff valve and feel like a goddamned idiot.

In the morning, I call the plumber and explain that I need new cut-off valves, an unplugged toilet, and ideally for him to help me figure out where my street shut-off is. He stops by and spends an hour hunting for the shut-off, and just as he's giving up and has told me that I need to talk to my complex developer to figure out where it is (or if it even exists; we're suing them for $51M for construction defects), he sees a street box on the pavement at the far, far end of my row of units. It is literally like 200M from my unit.

He pops it open, and there's the tag for my unit in there, with a meter and a cutoff. :wtc:

He cuts off the water while I take pictures of everything to add to the HOA's lawyers' files for construction bullshit. Then, I follow him back into the unit, where he proceeds to do exactly what I was going to do before, draining the toilet and popping the toy out from reverse. (Then, he also put in a new valve and hose.)


Story of my DIY career so far: Having all the right ideas, but also all the wrong implementations. :lol:

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Oh that is just awesome, I feel for you. And also add that to my file from last week of anytime I need to use a stop to replace a fixture I better have a replacement on hand.

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
And that is why I don’t do plumbing except for toilet/sink maintenance, snaking, and sump pump replacements. I know in general plumbing is relatively easy but I really don’t want to deal with the mess if I screw something up. Probably just a case of someone showing me some the basics and I’d be more comfortable.

spf3million
Sep 27, 2007

hit 'em with the rhythm
Always know where the water shutoff is before you start taking things apart!

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




spf3million posted:

Always know where the water shutoff is before you start taking things apart!

:hmmyes:

Even for the simplest, dumbest poo poo. Case in point: my partner bought me a bidet. Easy peasy hookup, right? Turn off water shut-off valve at toilet, swap in bidet tube, doneso

NOPE! My shutoff valve is a type where once its gasket(or some other part, I forget) fails, you need to replace the entire thing. I did not know this, and as soon as I twist the valve to shut it off, it springs a leak. Turn the valve back because oh gently caress, and the leak... got worse! :derp: And to make matters worse, the water was running down the wall... intoa small opening behind my trim. And not pooling underneath the trim, oh gently caress it's going into my wall!! Oh gently caress oh gently caress oh gently caress. Main water shutoff it is!

Did that, luckily this was at like 9pm so once I verified that shutting off the main stymied the leak, I... went the gently caress to sleep, called a plumber the next morning. Easy peasy $75 fix, would've been 3-4x as expensive if I had to call them when it spring the leak.

Magicaljesus
Oct 18, 2006

Have you ever done this trick before?
I have a plumber swinging by this morning to replace a faulty valve going into my wall. I needed to get behind my washing machine to paint and clean, so I turned off the hot and cold water intakes and started unscrewing the hoses. Cold water went as expected, but the hot water started dripping and spraying hard when I unscrewed, so I tightened and wrapped a towel on it. The valve is shot and the fixture goes back into the wall, so hooray, surprise home surgery!

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Magicaljesus posted:

I have a plumber swinging by this morning to replace a faulty valve going into my wall. I needed to get behind my washing machine to paint and clean, so I turned off the hot and cold water intakes and started unscrewing the hoses. Cold water went as expected, but the hot water started dripping and spraying hard when I unscrewed, so I tightened and wrapped a towel on it. The valve is shot and the fixture goes back into the wall, so hooray, surprise home surgery!

Did you try to tighten the nut thing that secures the handle to the valve, if I imagining the shutoff correctly? That is sometimes a cause of leaks after loosening a valve and that takes a few seconds to check. If you know it needs replacing / rebuilding the valve then nevermind my point

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Sundae posted:

Pop the quick connect off... WATER SPRAYS EVERYWHERE. poo poo, did I gently caress it up and open the valve wider? Spin the valve the other way while trying to keep the water going into the bucket! Nope, the other way it's even faster! Now I see pieces of black plastic coming out -- the valve has completely rotted out inside and there ISN'T a valve body, basically. I scream for my wife to get in here, she comes running. I need her to keep bailing water while I throw down towels. Keep bailing! I'm running to the street shut-off.

:stare:

Brb ordering a dedicated set of vise-grips for my plumbing bag

Never even occurred to me that a valve could fail inside a house

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Hadlock posted:

:stare:

Brb ordering a dedicated set of vise-grips for my plumbing bag

Never even occurred to me that a valve could fail inside a house

Me, banging the same drum again:

If your house is more than a few years old and you're putting in a new faucet or toilet, just add a valve (officially called a stop) to the shopping list. If you don't need it you can take it back, but even a functional old valve probably sucks. Give me a fresh quarter turn valve every time. You want it to work when you need it!

The last one I did nearly worked, but it was letting a dribble go by.

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

spf3million posted:

Always know where the water shutoff is before you start taking things apart!

100% agreed. Thing is, I thought I did. :lol: They're all right there on that one pipe running up the... oh... oh no. :suicide:

Lesson very learned.

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Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


Sirotan posted:

Delivery pushed back again to early March now, supposedly. I was getting so excited to finally have furniture again too.

:negative::negative::negative::negative::negative::negative::negative::negative:

My sofa was delivered! It only took 7 months!! Except the ottoman came with the wrong fabric!!! They are unable to do a rush order and the website says expected delivery is September!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

:smithicide:

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