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Any idea what this stuff is? Starts out as a bright canary yellow when first cut and dries to an almost walnut -level dark brown 
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Mar 18, 2022 22:52
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:Any idea what this stuff is? Starts out as a bright canary yellow when first cut and dries to an almost walnut -level dark brown Which part of the Earth are you on?
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Mar 18, 2022 22:54
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:Any idea what this stuff is? Starts out as a bright canary yellow when first cut and dries to an almost walnut -level dark brown If you're in the mid-atlantic/appalachian states, it could be shagbark hickory, or some hickory variant. Tough to tell with the vine growth. meatpimp fucked around with this message at 23:06 on Mar 18, 2022 |
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Mar 18, 2022 23:03
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EVERYWHERE 
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Osage orange? Seems not yellow enough/too brown, but color is really hard to judge given different lighting, cameras, etc.
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Mar 18, 2022 23:11
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A Wizard of Goatse posted:Any idea what this stuff is? Starts out as a bright canary yellow when first cut and dries to an almost walnut -level dark brown I was watching a sawmilling video last night, and they had some mulberry that looked a lot like that. Ed: this is the one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWcPtgQd6gQ Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 23:14 on Mar 18, 2022 |
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Mar 18, 2022 23:11
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Leperflesh posted:Osage orange? Seems not yellow enough/too brown, but color is really hard to judge given different lighting, cameras, etc. I'd buy this, it's violently yellow in person, and not as hard/dense as hickory has been ime. And yeah I'm in the Mid-Atlantic where osage oranges are everywhere. Thanks! Kinda wish there was a way to preserve this look  
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Mar 18, 2022 23:26
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^^E: that looks alot like osage orange bark, but black locust looks fairly similar tooA Wizard of Goatse posted:Any idea what this stuff is? Starts out as a bright canary yellow when first cut and dries to an almost walnut -level dark brown Osage orange or mulberry would be my guess. Maybe elm or black locust? I think locust will glow under a blacklight as an easy test and it is an orange/tan. The grain looks alot like Osage orange, but I haven't seen it freshly cut to know about color. The mulberry I've seen in antiques looks a whole lot like walnut but with a coarser grain in the earlywood more like oak/ash.
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Mar 18, 2022 23:27
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Yeah, a blacklight is the easiest way to rule out black locust. It glows very strongly. Mulberry and locust lumber look extremely similar, osage can look similar but it's typically a much brighter sunny yellow (until it oxidizes, which will take quite a long time). Locust has minimal or no distinct sapwood, while mulberry will have some cream colored sapwood.
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Mar 18, 2022 23:35
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Osage Orange is used for bowstaves, btw. One of the few American woods that are suitable. If you have or can make sticks at least 40" long, you can make some cash selling stave blanks. https://pinehollowlongbows.com/products/premium-osage-orange-staves http://frontieredgeworks.com/availableknives/osage_orange.html
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Mar 18, 2022 23:38
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 I've collected the walnut I won at the estate sale auction, and am seeking some further advice. The pic above is an example of one of the rougher surfaces, but most of the lumber looks like that to some degree. My only real experience so far has been with softwood from homedepot and I'm not really sure how to go about surfacing. My only tool in this realm right now is a #4 1/2 smoothing plane. I attempted to surface a piece similar to the above and ended up kind of happy with the end result, but it felt like it took way more effort than it should have in terms of time/muscles/sharpness. After doing some reading, it sounds like I might need another plane setup for surfacing? From what I've read it sounds like you want a plane iron with a slight curve to it and with the cap-iron set back significantly from the edge. I'm wondering about the following: - Would it be reasonable to just get another iron and set it up for roughing, then put it into my existing plane when surfacing wood like the above? - If so, is there a good place to buy irons setup for roughing? (I dont have a grinding wheel, I do have stones.) - Does it make more sense to just get another plane and dedicate it for this task? - If so, any recommendations? - If going the new plane route, it seems like this is an imprecise task and probably not the most useful place to pay for higher grade equipment. Could I get by with something more budget friendly, or does it make sense to invest in something nice?
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Mar 19, 2022 14:42
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I'd get something in the 5-6 range, so 14-18" long, camber the blade, not worry about anything else, watch a few board flattening videos from Schwarz or similar, and go to town. The used plane market is pretty awful at this point, I really don't recommend that direction for anything other than a jack/fore plane, but you can still find deals in that range due to how common they were. Also don't rule out transitionals in the 27-30 range if you find one in good shape.
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Mar 19, 2022 15:38
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Yep, agree with all that. Looking at eBay sold listings, if you have some patience, decent-looking old No 5s are going for like $50-100 which sounds reasonable to me. If you're really planning to do this with only/mostly hand tools, you don't want to skimp on your jack plane, it's by far the most used plane in your chest. You will also want a try plane sooner than later, but it can wait. Make sure your blade is sharp and watch some videos so you know you're using it correctly. IMO watch a variety of different people, and try the different techniques until something clicks for you. It will some practice and yeah a lot of work. Personally I use the spot planing technique that Shannon Rogers describes here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBsD0V-TVrk
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Mar 19, 2022 16:21
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On the subject of flattening, can anyone recommend a router jig design for slabs and other big boards? I know you can buy one for, like, $500 but I’m sure there’s a cheaper way to do the same thing…
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Mar 19, 2022 16:35
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Apollodorus posted:On the subject of flattening, can anyone recommend a router jig design for slabs and other big boards? I know you can buy one for, like, $500 but I’m sure there’s a cheaper way to do the same thing… I've tried to DIY this and got poor results. Granted that I'm not great at precision, which is what you need a lot of if you want to get something that's remotely ready for smoothing. It's very easy to get something slightly off and end up cutting a bunch of gouges into your slab. Plus, keeping the slab held still can be tricky, if it's a small one.
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Mar 19, 2022 16:53
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So, one of these might be worth it, then? https://www.truetracsaw.com/collections/router-gantry-system-slab-flattening-router-mills
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Mar 19, 2022 18:28
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Apollodorus posted:On the subject of flattening, can anyone recommend a router jig design for slabs and other big boards? I know you can buy one for, like, $500 but I’m sure there’s a cheaper way to do the same thing… If you've got access to steel or preferably aluminum (since it's easier to mill and work) pieces, it should be relatively doable.
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Mar 19, 2022 18:59
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If you have a jointer and tablesaw (or planer) and/or any other way to make two straight parallel boards, then you don't really need a crazy single-use jig. Make the sled out of plywood, with the sides inset/on top of the base (to make sure the bottom stays flat) and carry on. Little shims and hot glue go a long way to getting everything set where it needs to be. e: example using a tablesaw as a surface, but it'll work on anything if you shim the rails parallel. 
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 19:26 on Mar 19, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 19:21
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Busy Bee is having a sale on their newish range of mid-range planes. Anyone have any experience with them? Also, is there any reason I can't use the back edge of my track saw rail as an edge guide for my router? Seems like it would be fine, but I've never seen anyone else do it.
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Mar 19, 2022 19:50
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Hypnolobster posted:If you have a jointer and tablesaw (or planer) and/or any other way to make two straight parallel boards, then you don't really need a crazy single-use jig. Make the sled out of plywood, with the sides inset/on top of the base (to make sure the bottom stays flat) and carry on. Little shims and hot glue go a long way to getting everything set where it needs to be. Okay that’s basically what I had in mind, yeah. I have a jointer and a planer so I think I could get the rails straight and parallel, and the sled seems self-explanatory. Also wow that is a lot of sawdust.
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Mar 19, 2022 20:56
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I'll just add that because it's always woodworkers making these jigs, they always make the whole thing out of wood. But you have metal options! You can use angle iron or box iron or extruded aluminum bar for a lot of applications and wind up with something more compact, or stiffer, for the same amount of weight and potentially less time trying to make things be perfectly flat/straight.
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Mar 19, 2022 21:17
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Or if you're a huge nerd, you can 3d print some smaller jigs. I am kicking myself because I am in the middle of building a re-usable jig that would have been way easier if 3d printing was incorporated from the start. Bright side, got me to clean up and maintain my tools for the first time since winter started.
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Mar 19, 2022 22:59
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Today was the first time in months it's been warm enough in my garage to do things, so I made a wooden sword for my kid since the cardboard one I made years ago finally fell apart. Used some 1/4" poplar scraps for the blade and old douglas fir for the handle.  Her friends are extremely jealous.
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Mar 20, 2022 05:03
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Elder Postsman posted:Today was the first time in months it's been warm enough in my garage to do things, so I made a wooden sword for my kid since the cardboard one I made years ago finally fell apart. Used some 1/4" poplar scraps for the blade and old douglas fir for the handle. I'm extremely jealous.
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Mar 20, 2022 06:49
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revtoiletduck posted:Busy Bee is having a sale on their newish range of mid-range planes. Anyone have any experience with them? I have their no.7 jointer. My only complaint with it is that there's a little bit of slop in the depth adjustment knob. Everything else is nice and I 100% would buy again.
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Mar 20, 2022 16:32
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Leperflesh posted:Osage Orange is used for bowstaves, btw. One of the few American woods that are suitable. If you have or can make sticks at least 40" long, you can make some cash selling stave blanks. Tragically these were all cut for firewood, the longest is 3'. But I'll definitely keep an eye out, trees are coming down all the time here and $200 for a quarter log ain't half bad
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Mar 20, 2022 17:38
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Elder Postsman posted:Today was the first time in months it's been warm enough in my garage to do things, so I made a wooden sword for my kid since the cardboard one I made years ago finally fell apart. Used some 1/4" poplar scraps for the blade and old douglas fir for the handle. Make her a shield next :v
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Mar 20, 2022 19:06
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What would y'all get with a $75 woodcraft gift card? It's not enough for a nice power tool or a fancy hand tool, so maybe a jig or something? I like using gift cards on things I wouldn't normally buy myself.
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Mar 21, 2022 04:13
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more falafel please posted:What would y'all get with a $75 woodcraft gift card? It's not enough for a nice power tool or a fancy hand tool, so maybe a jig or something? I like using gift cards on things I wouldn't normally buy myself. Smaller hand tool that only comes up once and a while but saves the day, maybe. Panel gauge, corner punch, one of those saws that have a 45 degree twist in the blade to make cutting dovetails easier. Dunno what they"re called but Frank Klausz uses one Or more clamps
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Mar 21, 2022 04:29
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Apollodorus posted:So, one of these might be worth it, then? I'm a big fan of 80/20, but those prices seem really high for what you get. I think it'd be possible to collect the majority of the parts for far less. You can search for 80/20 (the brand name that people use as a generic name for it), 1010, or t-slot extrusion and get loads of hits. I'm not sure what prices are like but it's hard to believe they're as high as that site wants to charge.
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Mar 21, 2022 05:44
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Fortaleza posted:Or more clamps Clamps are always good. I just got a nice digital angle finder from them that was, like, $60. Or, you know, wood. They usually have some interesting stuff when I've checked out the wood room at the local one.
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Mar 21, 2022 12:48
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Wallet posted:
Yeah this was my thought. Grab a couple small cuts from species you haven't tried before.
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Mar 21, 2022 12:52
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more falafel please posted:What would y'all get with a $75 woodcraft gift card? It's not enough for a nice power tool or a fancy hand tool, so maybe a jig or something? I like using gift cards on things I wouldn't normally buy myself. A bit or 2 I didn't have, they carry kutzall which I like a Lot
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Mar 21, 2022 15:56
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Went to the lumberyard this morning and asked my sales rep about Baltic Birch and he said the veneers used to come from Ukraine and it was laid up into plywood in Russia so, uh, don’t count on any Baltic birch anytime soon. They make a little bit in Finland apparently, but not much compared to Russia.
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Mar 21, 2022 17:01
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more falafel please posted:What would y'all get with a $75 woodcraft gift card? It's not enough for a nice power tool or a fancy hand tool, so maybe a jig or something? I like using gift cards on things I wouldn't normally buy myself. I just got a 200mm shinto rasp and it's awesome.
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Mar 22, 2022 05:43
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I need some advice. I bought that stack of 10/4x10x8' boards, about 40 of them, last fall. They ended up being something along the lines of cottonwood or buckeye. I put them in a stack 4 deep, 10 high with stickers every 4 rows. I then covered it with a tarp put them on the tarp to start, on top of the concrete patio. I thought that would keep them dry, but I went to grab one today and got a strong mold smell and definite growth on the boards. What should I do to a) dry them out, and b) set it up so that I can keep them more dry?
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Mar 22, 2022 15:47
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ventilation. tarps are uh notably non-permeable, they'll keep the rainwater from falling directly on the stuff but unless you're giving the whole setup somewhere for air to flow in and out whatever moisture is in there will stay in there
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Mar 22, 2022 16:31
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Concrete is notoriously porous. If it isn't sealed underneath it will allow lots of ground moisture to permeate up through it. So the tarp will keep the moisture in rather than out. Look for a rack that lets air circulate below the wood.
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Mar 22, 2022 16:33
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Gotcha, I'll start looking for more of a structure to let it dry out / keep it dry. Thanks!
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Mar 22, 2022 16:42
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Also the rule of thumb is a year of drying per inch thickness. That's just a rule of thumb a lot depends on your ambient humidity and airflow, and somewhat on the species too, and a little bit by how the wood's been cut.
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Mar 22, 2022 16:48
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Leperflesh posted:Also the rule of thumb is a year of drying per inch thickness. That's just a rule of thumb a lot depends on your ambient humidity and airflow, and somewhat on the species too, and a little bit by how the wood's been cut. This stuff had been sitting in a barn for decades, so before I got it wet, it was dry. I've got a piece in the garage now, I'll let it sit for a while, then plane it and get a moisture reading.
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Mar 22, 2022 16:52
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