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I cracked the hotshoe mount on my 580EX, and while I’ve found a reasonably-priced replacement I’m wondering if anyone’s done this and has any tips. It doesn’t look like there’s much to it, just two screws and a cable…?
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# ? Feb 14, 2022 14:54 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 20:34 |
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jackpot posted:I cracked the hotshoe mount on my 580EX, and while I’ve found a reasonably-priced replacement I’m wondering if anyone’s done this and has any tips. It doesn’t look like there’s much to it, just two screws and a cable…? Are you opening up the flash unit?
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# ? Feb 14, 2022 16:56 |
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jarlywarly posted:Are you opening up the flash unit?
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# ? Feb 14, 2022 19:28 |
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jackpot posted:I don't think I'll have to, it looks like they were smart enough to build it so that the part that's easiest to break is easy to replace. Just judging from the screws it looks like the mount is completely separate from the rest of the unit. Guess I'll find out. Yeah that sounds fine, with flashes you have to be careful around the capacitor, so if it starts exposing electronics you need to watch out the cap can trigger cardiac arrest.
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# ? Feb 14, 2022 19:35 |
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hey hope I can ask a question about my flash it’s a yongnuo 560IV how poo poo are we meant to expect battery life to be? I have a lot of trouble turning it on. the display comes on then beeps twice and turns off. if I put brand new batteries in it does not do this, it just turns on, but I only seem to get 20 shots out of it before it won’t turn on again is this reasonable? it’s starting to gently caress me off. I hope it’s something that I can fix because as it stands it’s so unreliable
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# ? Feb 21, 2022 07:50 |
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echinopsis posted:hey hope I can ask a question about my flash What batteries are you using? Powerful flashes like that really need good quality NiMH rechargeable batteries like Enerloop Pro 2500 mAh or the Duracel Ultra 2500 mAh ones to have usable performance with regards shot count and recycle time. Generally I have 2 sets of 4 batteries charged, use something like an EBL-999 to charge em. Or you can swap the flash for a LiON one but then you are reliant on that battery and can't just swap in AA's jarlywarly fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Feb 21, 2022 |
# ? Feb 21, 2022 12:47 |
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My 285HVs did not like rechargables at all. Rechargable NiMH cells have a charged voltage of 1.4V full where as a regular alkaline are 1.6V. Dead voltage on a NiMH is 1.2V vs 1.4V for alkaline. So naturally if your flash circuitry has a dead battery shut off it will think a NiMH is a dead battery.
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# ? Feb 21, 2022 13:02 |
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um excuse me posted:My 285HVs did not like rechargables at all. Rechargable NiMH cells have a charged voltage of 1.4V full where as a regular alkaline are 1.6V. Dead voltage on a NiMH is 1.2V vs 1.4V for alkaline. So naturally if your flash circuitry has a dead battery shut off it will think a NiMH is a dead battery. That's not my experience with modern Canon and Yongnuo flashes and also not what seems to be the general experience, NiMH are recommended for current flash devices. The 285HVs is an older flash right?
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# ? Feb 21, 2022 13:18 |
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My Canon and Neewer flashes don't seem to mind the rechargeables. Just the 285HVs. And yes they're silly old designs. My account may not appear that old, but I remember when they were the crowd favorite in Dorkroom.
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# ? Feb 21, 2022 14:00 |
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Is there a better option than borrowlenses.com? I've never had a problem with them, but also never looked anywhere else
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# ? Mar 1, 2022 16:31 |
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Lensrentals is my favorite. I don't know if they're actually better, but I've spent of thousands of dollars with them over the years and always had great experiences.
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# ? Mar 1, 2022 16:41 |
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I've used both over the years, they're indistinguishable service wise. Pick your lens it shows up in a box and you send it back when done. lensrentals has some really cool tech articles in their blog, not really a reason to give them more business but they put out some informative stuff.
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# ? Mar 1, 2022 17:28 |
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In other news: anyone got an opinion on the most physically rugged SD cards out there? I'm done with SanDisk, their cards degrade badly and start shedding plastic bits after a couple years. I don't expect stuff to last forever but I'd reeeeeely prefer they didn't jam my camera's SD slot and necessitate expensive repairs so if there's something better out there I'd love to know of it.
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# ? Mar 1, 2022 22:36 |
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xzzy posted:In other news: anyone got an opinion on the most physically rugged SD cards out there? The Sony Tough ones are pretty good but really expensive.
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# ? Mar 1, 2022 22:45 |
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Does anyone know of any CTB and CTO color gels with a bowens mount setup? I'm looking for a setup to switch gels quickly on the fly.
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# ? Mar 3, 2022 20:59 |
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:There’s a company called 7artisans that does a bunch of no-frills manual lenses, and in particular they have a 35mm f/1.2 lens for $140 USD or so. The samyang 35/1.4 is amazing for what it costs. I picked up a Pentax-mount one used with the hood and caps and everything for $215. And according to photozone/optical limits they are about as good as a canon or Nikon 35/1.4. I think prices have gone up, and their AF line is more expensive, but many of the samyang lenses are cheap and cheerful. Getting it in Pentax mount was nice too because I could use it on my MX or adapt it to my NEX. Nikon mount would be good for that too.
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# ? Mar 4, 2022 07:29 |
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Ive got a sigma 135mm and I love it, but it really doesn't suit some situations. I try to squeeze as much out of it as I can but I think I need a good other lens. I shoot a lot of portrait and generally most stuff. I have a Canon EOS-R I do have the nifty fifty, but I can't help but feel like portrait mode on the iPhone has ruined it, because all the shots end up coming out looking like they were shot on an iPhone. maybe thats a "me" problem. I don't really like it after using nicer lens though, very much a backup. And I feel like an 85mm would be nice but I'm not pro enough to have all the lenses in the world I want, and its not that significantly different (to me) from the 135mm Anyway, I was considering a Sigma 35mm f1.4 it looks good, and its a chunk wider, forcing me to use it in a particular way. I tend to be a person of extremes kinda, so I am not opposed to the artificial limits I would impose on myself with a 135mm and 35mm Any thoughts or suggestions, or links to stuff to read etc?
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# ? Mar 6, 2022 06:29 |
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I had a sigma 35/1.4 and it was an autofocus nightmare.
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# ? Mar 6, 2022 22:53 |
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Posting my frustrations into the void. I have now been waiting 3 weeks for a 60 inch parabolic softbox to come into stock so I can finally start phasing out my 35" shoot through umbrellas. They have served me well but I am tried of staring at shadows on my backdrops. https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1495829-REG/fotodiox_ezpro_deep_60in_bowens_deep_ez_pro_60_150cm_parabolic.html I called Fotodiox, who have customer support in the US, and they told me they have two containers somewhere in the Atlantic waiting to come in. They told me they were uncomfortable telling me a landing date. They said its usually a 6 week window but with the global supply chain absolutely eating poo poo they can only tell me after they go through customs. They did tell me, for anyone who might also be looking, that you can buy an in stock one with incorrect mount and also buy their speed rings separately to essentially build one with a Bowens mount, if I needed something sooner (I don't). I just hope 60 is large enough for full length shots. I made the umbrellas work, but that is another serious limitation with them. um excuse me fucked around with this message at 15:11 on Mar 8, 2022 |
# ? Mar 8, 2022 15:06 |
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um excuse me posted:Posting my frustrations into the void. I have now been waiting 3 weeks for a 60 inch parabolic softbox to come into stock so I can finally start phasing out my 35" shoot through umbrellas. They have served me well but I am tried of staring at shadows on my backdrops. Getting an even background without using lights on the backdrop itself can be tough. For truly crispy white backgrounds, most people bring the model forward a bit, then use two lights just for the background — ideally, with two v-flats to block them off, like this: But you can usually get away without the v-flats. Using 2 lights at 45-degree angles helps kill the shadows and makes for even light. The downside is you need a lot more space in addition to the extra two lights. While you're waiting, if they're really bothering you, you could use Lightroom or Photoshop's Select Subject AI thing to select the subject, then invert the selection and bump up the background until it's to your liking. You could probably even batch it in either program, either with Sync Settings in Lightroom or by making an Action in Photoshop.
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# ? Mar 8, 2022 15:59 |
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More lights = more better. This is a mobile studio that I have been transitioning into a home studio, hence shoot through umbrellas. There are only 3 lights in my kit and two umbrellas for ease of transport. Post processing is always an option, but I am also the only photographer I know that can offer 24 hour turnarounds on shoots and have gotten work based solely on that, so speed of workflow is key for my business model. I am going to be picking up a couple of monolights along with the softbox so the setup illustrated should become possible.
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# ? Mar 8, 2022 16:13 |
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I used to shoot a sigma 35 1.4 on my friend’s D600 and it was awful for auto focus. Now I have my own on a D4 and D500 and it’s great. So might be a body thing.
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# ? Mar 9, 2022 23:19 |
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This has 100% been beat to death, but does anyone have a good, concise write up (preferably actual text and not video) they could link of what the practical pros and cons of a full frame vs a crop sensor? I'm in the weird position of only now buying my first real camera, but I have a bunch of experience from bumming off of friends' gear and taking photos for my job for failure analysis (lots of macro, and lighting fuckery to highlight fracture surface information). So I am reasonably competent at actually composing and shooting photos but am completely clueless when it comes to trying to draw comparisons between cameras themselves If anyone wants to chime in personally, what I'm looking to do is motorsports and automotive photography in various lighting conditions, macro, and probably some light video stuff too. I'm a completely manual person through habit more than anything, so Fuji stuff seems really tempting (in addition to also being retro cool). But the crop sensor gives me pause about investing into that whole ~system~ when it's... ostensibly inferior for what I want to do, at least from the super shallow articles I've found?
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# ? Mar 10, 2022 23:40 |
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Fuji makes great stuff and if it appeals to you, I'm not sure I'd spend too much time worrying about it being APS-C. Only thing I'd want to know is if you were dropping enough cash to get into the pro bodies and more exotic telephoto lenses that are mostly the realm of the big three for motorsports stuff (though that's about MFG and not FFvsAPS-C.) And... have you looked at photos you've taken on your borrowed gear to compare? Did you like any of the gear you borrowed? There's a lot of tradeoffs, but they're perhaps smaller than you'd think. I don't know that I'd consider APS-C a hinderance in most contexts. Some very general thoughts: APS-C Pros/cons Smaller and lighter Mostly cheaper Crop can get you more "reach" on the telephoto end Theoretically worse performance in low light, but sensors have gotten really good Less ideal for legacy glass from 35mm film systems Deeper DOF (by a bit), but that also makes focus a little easier FF Bigger and heavier, especially the glass More expensive Easier to get shallow DOF dreamy bokeh stuff (but that's still very doable on APS-C), but that can make focus harder If you go with Nikon/Canon/Sony you've got more specialized lens options Ideal for adapted legacy glass I've been shooting FF digital since the 5D MkII and have a lot of inertia with my lenses, but would love to have a compact APS-C body and lens kit for personal work.
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# ? Mar 11, 2022 00:18 |
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I feel like it's very much a "the grass is greener on the other side" thing, but personally I've never felt limited by APS-C, and the deeper DOF actually helps me and I'm not a bokeh bro anyway. I don't think anyone will notice (or care) except for pixel peepers or gear nerds. I get curious sometimes but I'd never think about going FF for real, as a FF system can be real expensive
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# ? Mar 11, 2022 02:14 |
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If you have any desire to do older lenses (alt glass) the full frame is nice. Also, you can always get the exact same depth of field by cropping down to APS-C (and Sony cameras can do it automatically iirc). And larger sensors equal better image quality mostly. That said it'll be more expensive and it may not be worth the freight for casual use. Manual lenses are nice for macro (or studio work/etc) where you don't want focus to move, and may open up some cheap glass - old macro primes are often quite good. Focus peaking (sparkles on the focus area) is nice. If the Fuji stuff meets your needs it's a sick system, and there's nothing wrong with aps-c either. If you want to do motorsports stuff, make sure the long lens selection and autofocus peformance meet your needs. Sony's MILC/EVIL stuff is nice too. I played with my dad's A6000-something and it was nice, way faster than my old NEX-5N. And that gets you onto a lens mount that has reasonable third-party support too. "Phase-detect autofocus" is a key phrase you'll want to look for in any non-DSLR body. PDAF pixels on the sensor makes autofocus way way faster.
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# ? Mar 11, 2022 03:24 |
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It's been ages since I did any research on photo stuff, but as we start to get back into travel slowly I'm getting ready to rectify my lack of a compact travel tripod. So obviously if I threw out the phrase "travel tripod" I guess my goals will be to reduce weight and size but still have a workable, usable tripod that can be deployed somewhat flexibly. I'm FIRMLY in the Peak Design ecosystem with the bags, slings, clips and the adapters and all, but there is very very very little chance I am going to drop seven hundred Canadian dollars on their carbon travel tripod. So I guess I mean I can google search for "best travel tripods" but I'm wondering if there's any diamonds in the rough I should focus on. I'm shooting with an A7ii with my current heaviest lens being the 24-105/4 but I could expand that to the 70-200s or a fat glass prime at some point. I don't really have a "budget", per se, but my sticker shock tends to show up at $500+ Canadian funbucks. I say that not to limit the price to under 500 because I don't particularly want to sacrifice weight or size for savings, if that's what a good travel tripod really costs, but obviously no one wants to spend more than they have to. And I mean when we get to $700 for the top of the line PD carbon tripod I really start to weigh a little shoulder soreness vs just buying the aluminum version, at which point I'm compromising anyway so I might as well see what else is out there. Other than the size, I guess the only thing it HAS to have is an arca head since I'm going to be using it with the Peak clip plate which is arca compat for the most part. So it would be awesome if whatever I get just had arca built in, otherwise now I have to look for a light arca ball head that doesn't completely suck and isn't super heavy. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:01 on Mar 13, 2022 |
# ? Mar 13, 2022 00:58 |
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I've starting shooting my sons lacrosse games, and while my Lumix G9 was doing great, I felt the 12-60mm f3.5-5.6 kit lens was missing a little bit of reach. Most time I can be sitting right off the side lines, so I'm thinking something around 100mm. Is there something you all would recommend? $200 - $300 bucks if possible. EDIT: I'm thinking Panasonic Lumix G Vario 35-100mm f/4-5.6 ASPH on KEH for $129. EZPZ. I would like the Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 35-100mm f/2.8 ASPH but $500 is bit more than I would like to spend EditX2: I actually ended up going with the Panasonic Lumix G Vario 45-200mm F/4-5.6 Mega O.I.S. Autofocus Lens for $200. I though having the extra reach might be nice as not overlap as much with my existing lens. Dial M for MURDER fucked around with this message at 21:01 on Mar 13, 2022 |
# ? Mar 13, 2022 20:08 |
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some kinda jackal posted:... "travel tripod" ... I like my Manfrotto Befree Advanced Travel Aluminum Tripod, but it is also the only tripod I have ever had. While it accepts Arca style plates, I do not know if that means that it is an Arca head.
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# ? Mar 13, 2022 20:37 |
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some kinda jackal posted:It's been ages since I did any research on photo stuff, but as we start to get back into travel slowly I'm getting ready to rectify my lack of a compact travel tripod. they do make an aluminum version for significantly less which weighs 3.4lb instead of 2.8lb also do have a look at sirui, they do make some decent inexpensive (Relatively) tripods
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# ? Mar 13, 2022 20:55 |
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For ~$1500 do any mirrorless SLRs stand out in particular? The internet doesn’t seem to have a consensus. I had been thinking a used Z6II because I’m a Nikon main, but I’d have to buy new glass (my lenses aren’t FTZ compatible) no matter the system so I’d switch teams.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 02:56 |
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If I wasn’t fully bought into micro four thirds the Canon RP would be very intriguing to me - because seemingly the Canon EF lens adapter let you use old EF glass fully (AF and all), plus the new RF lenses seem really nice For $1500 you could get the body and the 24-100 f4-7.1 kit, the adapter, and a used RF mount 50 f1.8 for something faster. I think. Depends on the taxes and exact $$$.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 10:34 |
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I can't say much about other systems but I run canon mirrorless and the autofocus is incredible. perfect almost.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 10:50 |
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dupersaurus posted:For ~$1500 do any mirrorless SLRs stand out in particular? The internet doesn’t seem to have a consensus. I had been thinking a used Z6II because I’m a Nikon main, but I’d have to buy new glass (my lenses aren’t FTZ compatible) no matter the system so I’d switch teams. Used prices are creeping up but Fujifilm X-series bodies are still reasonable and you can get the good 18-55 IS kit lens for a loving song from places like KEH. I think X-T30 kits with that lens are under $1500, but as always, going used on the body could get you more for less.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 10:59 |
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I have spent the majority of my money on used items. But the last item (a camera body) was listed as "excellent" by MPB, and while I couldn't disagree with their rating by casual visual inspection, once I removed a cover I noticed that the body had been in salt water as there was plenty of corrosion on the body.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 15:07 |
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Did they refund/replace without too much quibbling?
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 15:15 |
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dupersaurus posted:For ~$1500 do any mirrorless SLRs stand out in particular? The internet doesn’t seem to have a consensus. I had been thinking a used Z6II because I’m a Nikon main, but I’d have to buy new glass (my lenses aren’t FTZ compatible) no matter the system so I’d switch teams. Not especially unless you're the type to read reviews of cameras where they zoom all the way in, on the corners Fuji seems to have a better menu system than Sony. And then most cameras have EOS lens adapters, but that doesn't help you as a Nikon guy. I would guess that Nikon adapters should be available soon if not already
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 15:23 |
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Pablo Bluth posted:Did they refund/replace without too much quibbling? They probably would have, but I was being an idiot. I bought the body to have it converted to a monochrome. The vendor doing the conversion notified me of the issue. Since it only impacted a small part of the body, not the electronics, I asked the vendor to proceed with the conversion. After getting the camera back, I noticed that the vendor had screwed up the conversion on a small but noticeable part of the sensor. If a scene is busy enough, then the defect is not obvious, but in a scene with soft gradients, the defect is super obvious and the cone tool will only make it worse. The vendor has been less than useful in resolving this, so now I have a doubly useless camera. Edit: But I did send MPB an email informing them (without asking for a refund) that they need to up their game in the inspection process.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 18:35 |
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Hadlock posted:Fuji seems to have a better menu system than Sony. And then most cameras have EOS lens adapters, but that doesn't help you as a Nikon guy. I would guess that Nikon adapters should be available soon if not already To be fair, pretty much every other manufacturer has a better menu system than Sony, but Sony's mirrorless bodies are still wildly popular, so YMMV.
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 22:59 |
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# ? May 16, 2024 20:34 |
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wolfs posted:If I wasn’t fully bought into micro four thirds the Canon RP would be very intriguing to me - because seemingly the Canon EF lens adapter let you use old EF glass fully (AF and all), plus the new RF lenses seem really nice Hmmm I was side-eyeing the R6 but RP seems like it’s got most of the good stuff. How big of a deal is in-body stabilization versus lens stabilization?
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# ? Mar 20, 2022 23:14 |