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unlimited shrimp posted:I'm not sure how old it is, maybe early 90s? I'm thinking it's not original; the house was built in the 1970s. Ok, well, it may be that those can't really be reglazed like old windows can. If they can be replaced, the process is likely different than the process I'm familiar with.
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Mar 20, 2022 14:04
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| # ? May 28, 2024 14:41 |
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More old window time: I went out this morning to take another look, got adventurous with some putty knives and a pry bar, and got both sashes out.   The old glazing is pretty loose all over so I’m going to scrape everything, prime with kilz, replace the broken glass, and reglaze. Should be interesting  I don’t need these windows to open so they’ll just get fixed in place and caulked again, but it’ll be nice to see outside.I poked at the rotten sill a bit and found it opens up to the cavity between the stone foundation wall and interior basement wall.  I suppose my options are: - remove the rest of the frame until I can pull out the sill, replace it, and put everything back together - Cut out the potion of the sill I can get to, replace it, caulk the seams -do what the previous owner did with the other window and just squirt some spray foam in there
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Mar 20, 2022 16:25
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Is it an allusion or are the stairs right up to that window? Does it need to open ever?
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Mar 20, 2022 18:24
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Toebone posted:More old window time: You'd be better off priming with a specialized oil-based exterior wood primer, either the Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Williams version, if you can find it. Also, don't forget to at least wear a p99 respirator to avoid inhaling lead.
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Mar 20, 2022 18:32
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Yeah the stairs are built right up to the window, it’s not going to be opening. I already have the Kilz 2 but I’ll take a look for the oil based primer, I have to do another hardware store trip for the new points anyway. I’m an environmental remediation technician, so I’m set for respiratory PPE.
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Mar 20, 2022 19:50
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Why not just brick it in?
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Mar 20, 2022 20:32
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Vim Fuego posted:Are there any good white spray primers? All the ones I've tried have been horrible. Watery, spatters, bad coverage. Slow drying and drippy. Just awful to work with compared to gray, black, and red primers. I've got kilz and rustoleum painters touch 2x on hand, and I'm pretty sure krylon is the same. BIN shellac primer. Drys super fast and sticks to everything. It smells a lot and harder to clean up.
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Mar 20, 2022 20:45
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nm posted:BIN shellac primer. Drys super fast and sticks to everything. Thank you! My can of rustoleum died to an internal clog with like 2/3rd the paint left. I'll give BIN spray a try next time I need white spray primer
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Mar 20, 2022 20:48
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Toebone posted:Yeah the stairs are built right up to the window, it’s not going to be opening. I will never stop telling people to wear respirators. The angle on that window is funny, but it doesn't look like there are any pulleys/ropes? Maybe it was never intended to be openen/closed in the first place, or else they retrofitted it after the fact to be fixed in place and come in and out that way after they put the stairs in because whoever did that wasn't a complete rear end in a top hat after all.
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Mar 20, 2022 23:21
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Yeah, none of the windows (except a kitchen window that was probably added around the “indoor plumbing” renovation) have sash weights. All the top sashes are fixed; I’m not sure if they were supposed to move originally. The window next to it, with no staircase, has the same framing outside, I think they’re all like that- basically a simple box frame with the jambs nailed in once the sashes are installed. They still had all the old spike nails when I pulled it apart so I’m probably the first person to work on it in quite a while. Did some cleanup on the top sash this afternoon. Any tips for getting old paint off glass?  (I had taken the orbital sander out but came to my senses before using it) Toebone fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Mar 21, 2022 |
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Mar 21, 2022 00:55
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It looks like they've already got pins at the joints, so that's nice. Bob had us use some sort of windshield wiper fluid and a razor blade. You could probably try any sort of glass cleaner and a razor blade first, I've read since that wiper fluid is kind of nasty to be around. Edit: looking at the photos, that sash is really in remarkable shape. Danhenge fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Mar 21, 2022 |
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Mar 21, 2022 02:08
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Toebone posted:Any tips for getting old paint off glass? I'm too lazy to find an image but here they are on amazon. you can find them at any hardware store. https://www.amazon.com/Razor-Blade-...aps%2C76&sr=8-8
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Mar 21, 2022 02:19
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Danhenge posted:I've read since that wiper fluid is kind of nasty to be around. What have you heard about that? Because as far as I know windshield wiper fluid is in decreasing proportions: water, alcohol (amount depending on how low temp it's rated for), "better" stuff has some proportion of soap and almost all of them have some dye. Not sure which part of that is nasty.
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Mar 21, 2022 02:24
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I want to put some insulation between the joists in my basement ceiling to reduce noise transmission between floors. Would it be dangerous to use faced fiberglass insulation that wouldn't be covered for an indeterminate amount of time?
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Mar 21, 2022 02:48
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Motronic posted:What have you heard about that? Because as far as I know windshield wiper fluid is in decreasing proportions: water, alcohol (amount depending on how low temp it's rated for), "better" stuff has some proportion of soap and almost all of them have some dye. Not sure which part of that is nasty. Some of it has methanol, i think.
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Mar 21, 2022 02:55
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Toebone posted:
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Mar 21, 2022 02:57
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:What area of the country are you in? Please posts pics as you strip that thing, very interested to know what it's made of. It's really in amazing shape for being a basement window for 180 years. New Jersey. I’ll keep posting as I go, I’m sure I’ll run into more questions.
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Mar 21, 2022 03:06
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NotNut posted:I want to put some insulation between the joists in my basement ceiling to reduce noise transmission between floors. Would it be dangerous to use faced fiberglass insulation that wouldn't be covered for an indeterminate amount of time? No. Also consider rock wool if you are able. It’s slightly more soundproof and may be easier to work with (cheap breadknife to cut custom gaps). No Kraft paper though.
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Mar 21, 2022 03:58
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Moved into my new house over the last few months, had the entire back yard resodded as it has zero grass and looked like poo poo, everything is draining super well and I could not be happier, minus one little spot.  This is right off my drive way and I think the easiest solution would be to have it filled with dirt and sod placed down. Has anybody filled an area like this with mulch/dirt to raise the bed and filled with with green plants that survive the winter?
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Mar 24, 2022 16:33
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Ok, I have the replacement Temperature & Pressure valve. I am fed up with waiting for the plumbing co and am ready to replace it myself. I'm going to ask some basic questions because I don't want to break parts as I'm doing this. Here's a picture of the setup with the parts labeled.  I plan to undertake the following steps: 1. Power down boiler 2. Shut off incoming water to hot water tank 3. Attach hose to hot water tank drain valve, run to floor drain 4. Open drain valve to remove a sufficient amount of water to drop the water level below where the T&P valve is plumbed in- ~20gal ought to do it 5. Undo the brass fitting I have labeled Union 1 using a large pair of chanellock pliers With union 1 removed from the valve, I will then be able to 6. Unscrew the valve from the part I have labeled union 2 7. Install the replacement valve into union 2 8. Install union 1 into the bottom of the replacement valve Refill hot water tank and power up the boiler. There are a few things I'm unclear about here, though. Is my order correct? How do I get Union 1 out of the valve without breaking the pvc coupler? Is Union 1 screwed into the PVC coupler under that warning tape? Or is it likely to be glued somehow? If Union 1 is screwed into the valve and the PVC Coupler then how do you install both screw parts into each other? Is one of them reverse threaded? Should I remove the old valve from Union 2, leaving Union 2 attached to the Large Fitting? Or is there some reason to remove Union 2 from the Large Fitting? I assume the blue stuff is teflon tape. I usually use teflon paste instead. Is teflon paste a good product for sealing these threads? Or should I use tape for some reason? I don't have any blue teflon tape, which it looks like is for gas applications. If I should use tape instead of paste, do I need blue teflon tape or will white work? Here's a pic from further out, if that helps. 
Sous Videodrome fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Mar 25, 2022 |
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Mar 25, 2022 00:30
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Sous Videodrome posted:Is my order correct? That seems like a reasonable order. Sous Videodrome posted:How do I get Union 1 out of the valve without breaking the pvc coupler? Is Union 1 screwed into the PVC coupler under that warning tape? Or is it likely to be glued somehow? How does this PVC end? From your questions I'm going to guess it's in a 90 or something at the floor so you can't just twist it off. If that's the case you're going to have to cut it and then patch it back together with a union and PVC cement when you're done. It looks like the PVC union on what you have labeled "union 1" is threaded/screwed into it. Sous Videodrome posted:Should I remove the old valve from Union 2, leaving Union 2 attached to the Large Fitting? Or is there some reason to remove Union 2 from the Large Fitting? Whatever makes it easiest for you. Take the least amount apart you can, but that's not always possible. Remember: don't unscrew the valve (probably with a pipe wrench) without having a wrench holding counter force on "union 2". You have to hold the parts behind what you are loosening or tightening at all times so you don't have any unintended consequences. Sous Videodrome posted:I assume the blue stuff is teflon tape. I usually use teflon paste instead. Is teflon paste a good product for sealing these threads? Or should I use tape for some reason? I don't have any blue teflon tape, which it looks like is for gas applications. If I should use tape instead of paste, do I need blue teflon tape or will white work? That in in fact blue teflon tape. Meaning it's suitable for petrochemicals and fuel gas. That's probably just what they carry and use on everything. You do not need to use anything other than standard white tape (minimum 3 wraps) since this is just water. You can use paste, but I really don't like it because it makes things very difficult to disassemble later.
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Mar 25, 2022 00:59
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Motronic posted:How does this PVC end? From your questions I'm going to guess it's in a 90 or something at the floor so you can't just twist it off. If that's the case you're going to have to cut it and then patch it back together with a union and PVC cement when you're done. It looks like the PVC union on what you have labeled "union 1" is threaded/screwed into it. Yeah, it drops down into a 90 degree elbow, into more pipe, which eventually reaches the floor drain.  I'll pick up a PVC Union and make sure I have PVC cement before I start this job. Thanks a lot!
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Mar 25, 2022 01:40
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So Im thinking of building a small garden locker in my backyard this Spring, something to get the garden tools out of my garage/woodshop and keep them closer to where I use them. Nothing too big, maybe 2ft deep by 4 or 5ft wide. Something along these lines: I was thinking of putting down a bit of gravel, then levelling a couple of big patio stones and building it on that.  I was thinking a bit more, and is there any benefit to taking it one step further and just pouring a small concrete pad? I mean it would look a bit cleaner, but if it ever shifts I imagine the patio stones would be easier to adjust. If I do go the pouring route, how thick would it need to be and would someone with no experience be able to do it?
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Mar 25, 2022 01:54
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Sous Videodrome posted:Yeah, it drops down into a 90 degree elbow, into more pipe, which eventually reaches the floor drain. Can you please show me the rest of the PVC run? I don't like what I'm seeing. It's a minor risk, but these valves are emergency equipment and need to be treated a certain way. It may not be done right based on what I'm seeing and you have the opportunity to correct that as you're doing this. I can't think of any good reason for that to be t'd into another pipe, and there should be an air gap before it hits the floor drain. Where does that pip it's t'd into come from/what is it attached to?
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Mar 25, 2022 02:40
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Job done! Old and busted:  New (lead free) hotness:  With the one minor problem that the PVC coupler I bought is the wrong size. I tested on the demo pipe section marked 3/4" at the hardware store but it's bigger than the 3/4" marked pipe in the project. Ah well, that's amateur plumbing for you. Being that this valve works, hasn't failed, and doesn't constantly gush out water I can leave that until tomorrow when the hardware stores open. I will be bringing the section of pipe with me to make sure I get the right one. Thanks Motronic!
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Mar 25, 2022 03:10
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Motronic posted:Can you please show me the rest of the PVC run? I don't like what I'm seeing. Just saw this post. Here's how the T-junction works: Starts at this valve on top of the boiler, which I assume is also overheat/overpressure safety equipment  Drops down and Ts off to the water tank T&P valve. Normally this would be connected but I cut it and bought the wrong size connector.  Then it runs along the wall behind the washer/dryer. Nothing else joins it.  The T&P valve pipe is the one on the left hand side, with the fittings on the end. There is an air gap before the floor drain.
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Mar 25, 2022 03:33
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I am LIVING the motronic-op post combo of "I'm worried can I see it" vs "FIXED IT!" lmao
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Mar 25, 2022 03:42
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Sous Videodrome posted:The T&P valve pipe is the one on the left hand side, with the fittings on the end. There is an air gap before the floor drain. Okay, so it's servicing two T&Ps. I don't like it, especially all the 90s, but its less concerning that it otherwise could be. At least it's air gapped properly.
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Mar 25, 2022 13:58
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We got a new porch built a few months ago and we're waiting for spring to redo the landscaping to match it, and the time has come. The old landscaping used this black rubber material as a barrier between the inside edge of the dirt and the porch:   What is this material called? It's nearly 1/8" thick, and I can't find anything appropriate at Home Depot. I somehow got to pond liners, but the thickest pond liner I can find is 45 mil, so still half the thickness of this stuff. The PO was a carpenter, so it's entirely possible it's some completely incongruous material that was left over from a job site, a lot of the house is like that. The old porch's deck was made out of T&G floorboards, which, uh, didn't hold up.
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Mar 25, 2022 17:55
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It looks like regular sheet rubber: https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Sheet..._id=11260355011 It's used got a lot of different things, including flat roofs.
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Mar 25, 2022 18:04
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Yeah a roofing supply house or sometimes a general contractors supply house should have 60 mil rubber membrane available.
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Mar 25, 2022 19:50
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Motronic posted:Okay, so it's servicing two T&Ps. I don't like it, especially all the 90s, but its less concerning that it otherwise could be. At least it's air gapped properly. Ok. I'll reassemble it in the original configuration then. Mystery of the wrong 3/4" coupling solved: The pipes are CPVC rather than PVC. CPVC is a different system with different OD. So the 3/4" PVC coupler of course didn't fit the 3/4" CPVC pipe. I had never heard of CPVC before today, so I didn't know what I didn't know. Which I feel is the standard experience of amateur plumbers and is the cause of many, many trips to the hardware store.
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Mar 25, 2022 20:31
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Sous Videodrome posted:Which I feel is the standard experience of amateur plumbers and is the cause of many, many trips to the hardware store. * one of the many causes
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Mar 25, 2022 20:35
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Motronic posted:* one of the many causes 
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Mar 25, 2022 20:51
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My main two causes of a second trip to the store are a) Get everything I need, start taking stuff apart and realize the PO did something idiotic that I need to fix and b) "Should I pick up a (blank) while I'm here? Nah, I'm pretty sure I've got 2 or 3 (blanks) in the shed".
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Mar 25, 2022 23:50
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Until you realize that they're 1-1/4, not 1-1/2. poo poo
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Mar 26, 2022 03:03
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I had to make 4 trips to lowes to get the right size threaded cap for a fridge ice maker line. I have no idea why or how.
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Mar 26, 2022 03:05
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BigFactory posted:I had to make 4 trips to lowes to get the right size threaded cap for a fridge ice maker line. I have no idea why or how. Because standards are awesome........there are so many to choose from.
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Mar 26, 2022 03:06
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My strategy is typically to buy extra parts and the different potential sizes that I might need on the first trip. This guarantees two trips because I'll need to return what I don't use but at least I won't need to stop mid-job and go back to the store. Of course I never end up with the right parts anyway so it ends up being 3 or 4 or 5 trips every weekend.
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Mar 26, 2022 03:39
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| # ? May 28, 2024 14:41 |
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spf3million posted:My strategy is typically to buy extra parts and the different potential sizes that I might need on the first trip. This guarantees two trips because I'll need to return what I don't use but at least I won't need to stop mid-job and go back to the store. Of course I never end up with the right parts anyway so it ends up being 3 or 4 or 5 trips every weekend. I do this and that is why I have PLENTY of extra parts around and ALL of them are the wrong sizes.
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Mar 26, 2022 03:50
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