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Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

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Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005




Anyone know who makes this bike?

Time
Aug 1, 2011

It Was All A Dream

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

Anyone know who makes this bike?

Lol

Albinator
Mar 31, 2010

kinda interested to know how the fork is actually attached to the rest of the bike on that one

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
I'm in love with bad ideas of Italian cycling circa 1980-1990

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Salt Fish posted:

I'm in love with bad ideas of Italian cycling circa 1980-1990



MTB trying to get rid of pedal kickpack while road trying to introduce it.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

That looks like a really good way to convert valuable crank energy into heat, rather than forward motion

I want one

The Wiggly Wizard
Aug 21, 2008


Albinator posted:

kinda interested to know how the fork is actually attached to the rest of the bike on that one

Pretty sure it's a threaded headset without the quill up top. There's probably recessed upper bearings under the top cap

frogbs
May 5, 2004
Well well well
I was in another thread today where someone was having trouble with the chain falling off their e-bike, they linked to an e-bike forum thread about it, and it really bummed me out. https://electricbikereview.com/forums/threads/trek-verve-2-chain-is-constantly-slipping.35298/

It makes me wish there wasn't such a schism between 'e-bikes' and regular bikes. This kind of problem has been covered to death in some of the more established bike forums out there. I wish there wasn't such a e-bike/regular bike schism.

All that being said, Trek should've definitely specd a narrow wide from day one on that bike.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

frogbs posted:

It makes me wish there wasn't such a schism between 'e-bikes' and regular bikes.
I kind of get it. People expect a reliable vehicle with minimal maintenance. Unfortunately I haven't seen the equivalent of a Toyota ebike company. That would require both an affordable reliable build as well as a good supply chain of replacement parts.

Unfortunately the shops are going to feel most of the pain from unhappy customers.

frogbs
May 5, 2004
Well well well

CopperHound posted:

I kind of get it. People expect a reliable vehicle with minimal maintenance. Unfortunately I haven't seen the equivalent of a Toyota ebike company. That would require both an affordable reliable build as well as a good supply chain of replacement parts.

Unfortunately the shops are going to feel most of the pain from unhappy customers.

Yeah, I think we're still in the early days of e-bikes. If people are expected to depend on them the same way they do a car (and not do maintenance themselves) we've got a bit to go. A RadPower certainly isn't Toyota level. Maybe something like a Tern could be pretty close, with a belt drive? You're still going to get variable levels of service depending on the shop though.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

dreesemonkey posted:

Yea, I get demand is less, but $500 is crazy for a 24" bike and it's the last stop on the line before an adult bike.

Oh well, it can be passed down to my daughter and then my nephew many years later, at least.
I dunno, there's plenty of extremely cheap kids bikes that are also extremely shite boat anchors. Our kids have ridden Puky (Germany) balance bikes and Ku(Ger)/Early Rider(UK) bikes and we definitely got our money's worth over entry level stuff. Our oldest kid's balance bike is on its 4th rider now and still going strong.

Other decent brands off the top of my head: Isla (UK), Frog/Woom if you don't mind made in china.

SimonSays posted:

It's got all the same parts and safety requirements as a full-size bike though. Why would it not be about the same price?
This essentially.

frogbs posted:

Yeah, I think we're still in the early days of e-bikes. If people are expected to depend on them the same way they do a car (and not do maintenance themselves) we've got a bit to go. A RadPower certainly isn't Toyota level. Maybe something like a Tern could be pretty close, with a belt drive? You're still going to get variable levels of service depending on the shop though.
There's not a bike on the planet that'll reach Toyota levels of reliability. Bikes need parts way more often than cars, it's just how they're built. But a good bike will have easily-obtained spares, and they'll be affordable.

evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Mar 20, 2022

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

It takes a while to process that being smaller doesn't make something cheaper. A quality kids bike will cost as much as a quality adult bike.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

CopperHound posted:

It takes a while to process that being smaller doesn't make something cheaper. A quality kids bike will cost as much as a quality adult bike.
Exactly. But it'll be *way* understressed and last forever too, provided you do very basic maintenance (and don't leave it in the weather).

in a well actually
Jan 26, 2011

dude, you gotta end it on the rhyme

If you’re not buying https://www.bicycling.com/news/a34906756/specialized-hotwalk-carbon-balance-bike-for-kids/ for your lil shredder, do you even love them?

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

evil_bunnY posted:

Exactly. But it'll be *way* understressed and last forever too, provided you do very basic maintenance (and don't leave it in the weather).

Lol at kids bikes being "understressed" like they're not gonna be repeatedly rammed into curbs trying to learn to bunny hop or jumped off of anything and everything

MrL_JaKiri
Sep 23, 2003

A bracing glass of carrot juice!

Dog Case posted:

Lol at kids bikes being "understressed" like they're not gonna be repeatedly rammed into curbs trying to learn to bunny hop or jumped off of anything and everything

Depends on the kid how much they do that stuff, but a lot of well built frames can carry someone 125, 150kg without much fuss. A 25kg kid - with a smaller triangle and smaller wheels, so much stronger - will put less stress on it than you imagine.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003



is it bad that my reaction was "that's cheaper than I thought it would be"?

Samopsa
Nov 9, 2009

Krijgt geen speciaal kerstdiner!

evil_bunnY posted:



There's not a bike on the planet that'll reach Toyota levels of reliability. Bikes need parts way more often than cars, it's just how they're built. But a good bike will have easily-obtained spares, and they'll be affordable.

I would say most dutch style city bikes fit "Toyota level reliability". 30+ year old bikes still running fine with minimal maintenance. Especially those with a fully enclosed chain protector, no gearing (or 3 internal gears), and back-pedaling brakes. The only thing that'll need fixing are tires wearing out or getting punctures.

For modern e-bikes a belt driven internally geared one should also last a long time without much maintenance at all. A yearly checkup should be plenty, just like with a Toyota I guess!

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
The truth about dutch bikes is they're 'indestructible' as in theyll take you the 3km or so round trip commute the average dutch bike cyclist rides because it's a short enough distance on good enough cycling infrastructure that they don't notice the poor condition of their bicycle over time.

I've had to work on those, especially the second hand ones imported by the shipping container from Europe to here. Just like any bike they suffer from wobbly bottom brackets and crunchy hubs and overall poor bicycle condition than anything else.

The fact that they usually lack derailleurs and run coaster brakes helps, yes, but a bike from any other part of the planet with the same features will have the same longevity.

Also chain protector doesn't do really anything all to lengthen the life of a chain it just hides the fact that it's rusty as gently caress and needs lubing. It's the fact that it's a heavy as all gently caress single speed chain and there's no wear enduced drop in shifting performance that makes it last longer.

And then when you finally go to replace the chain and discover that your chainring and drive cog are toast you throw it in the canal/put it in a shipping container to sell to some dumb Canadian.

EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Mar 20, 2022

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

EvilJoven posted:

Also chain protector doesn't do really anything all to lengthen the life of a chain
I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one point. Protecting a chain with a full chain case does a great job at protecting grit from getting all over it and making it wear out faster. Compare the chain case chain to bikes where people just keep adding more chain lube without doing any sort of wipe down.

It does however, make all other maintenance take much longer.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


EvilJoven posted:

The truth about dutch bikes is they're 'indestructible' as in theyll take you the 3km or so round trip commute the average dutch bike cyclist rides because it's a short enough distance on good enough cycling infrastructure that they don't notice the poor condition of their bicycle over time.

I've had to work on those, especially the second hand ones imported by the shipping container from Europe to here. Just like any bike they suffer from wobbly bottom brackets and crunchy hubs and overall poor bicycle condition than anything else.

The fact that they usually lack derailleurs and run coaster brakes helps, yes, but a bike from any other part of the planet with the same features will have the same longevity.

Also chain protector doesn't do really anything all to lengthen the life of a chain it just hides the fact that it's rusty as gently caress and needs lubing. It's the fact that it's a heavy as all gently caress single speed chain and there's no wear enduced drop in shifting performance that makes it last longer.

And then when you finally go to replace the chain and discover that your chainring and drive cog are toast you throw it in the canal/put it in a shipping container to sell to some dumb Canadian.

I thought I was good at basic bike maintenance but I put my bikes in early at the LBS because I figured we'd start riding early, and the difference is huge. Whatever they do with the derailleurs, it's so much better than after six months of my half-assed poo poo.

I posted before about my counterfeit chain issue and I thought that maybe running them hosed all my drivetrain stuff up, but no, it just turns out that I am not as good at a thing as people who do it 50 hours a week are.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


That said I can handle tubeless tires like a pro and apparently people hate doing that and my LBS charges out the rear end for tubeless work so I guess I'm still ahead of the game.

Samopsa
Nov 9, 2009

Krijgt geen speciaal kerstdiner!

EvilJoven posted:

The truth about dutch bikes is they're 'indestructible' as in theyll take you the 3km or so round trip commute the average dutch bike cyclist rides because it's a short enough distance on good enough cycling infrastructure that they don't notice the poor condition of their bicycle over time.

I've had to work on those, especially the second hand ones imported by the shipping container from Europe to here. Just like any bike they suffer from wobbly bottom brackets and crunchy hubs and overall poor bicycle condition than anything else.

The fact that they usually lack derailleurs and run coaster brakes helps, yes, but a bike from any other part of the planet with the same features will have the same longevity.

Also chain protector doesn't do really anything all to lengthen the life of a chain it just hides the fact that it's rusty as gently caress and needs lubing. It's the fact that it's a heavy as all gently caress single speed chain and there's no wear enduced drop in shifting performance that makes it last longer.

And then when you finally go to replace the chain and discover that your chainring and drive cog are toast you throw it in the canal/put it in a shipping container to sell to some dumb Canadian.
lol @ the last

I don't disagree with most of your points, but the bicycle will still be able to perform it's basic task (getting you from a to b) with minimal care and effort. Sure, it wont be as efficient as a well maintained one, but it'll do the trick. Most people here putter about at around 15 kph so it does not matter at all to lose a couple of watts. Nobody cleans the chain of their beater bike, nobody cares if it's rusted to hell. It works, and it's fine. It's a tool made for a specific use on specific infrastructure, but so are cars. I'd reckon most cars wouldn't last long with off-road usage and minimal maintenance.

The chain guard is also there to keep your pants clean, so bike shops can just slather the chain with thick grease that'll last ages and won't get washed out by rain or mud.

dema
Aug 13, 2006



Sup dog.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I know driveshaft bikes are frowned upon as they have ~85% power transfer vs ~96% efficiency of a chain

Why aren't driveshafts more popular for ebikes? Battery prices are low enough now to make up for the ~11% drivetrain efficiency loss, I would think. Seems like with a 3 speed internal hub, sealed driveshaft system and coaster brake you could get 5k-7000 miles between tune ups?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Hadlock posted:

I know driveshaft bikes are frowned upon as they have ~85% power transfer vs ~96% efficiency of a chain

Why aren't driveshafts more popular for ebikes? Battery prices are low enough now to make up for the ~11% drivetrain efficiency loss, I would think. Seems like with a 3 speed internal hub, sealed driveshaft system and coaster brake you could get 5k-7000 miles between tune ups?

You lose even more efficiency in the IGH, it'd feel like garbage adding those two together.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
mass produced parts are cheaper

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Moderate effort post -- yall may have seen my asking about square taper 104 BCD crank options.
So I wanted to size down from the 170s on my cargo bike. Right now, I ride it the most out of all of my bikes, and I'm an avowed 165 cyclist now, so it was time to call it in.

The Tern Cargo Node is specced with some sort of MTB 104 double, with this unusual integrated bashguard screwed into the big ring. Tern support says the chainline is 47.5, which would typically be an MTB triple, but since this is a double, my effective chainline would move if I got a triple (and mounted a bashguard as the big ring). As it was, I had trouble finding square taper 165 stuff on eBay.

I decided I really wanted to keep the bashguard -- it's definitely banged into stuff several times as I move the bike around while folded up, which exposes the crank -- so I had to stick with 104 even if I changed bottom bracket format.

eBay had a Truvativ Howitzer double in 165. Thanks to some poor research, I thought Howitzer was the same spline format as ISIS, just running a different spindle length. I was trying to save a bit of money, as I had some ISIS BBs left over from the Surly Lowside build. There was exactly one ISIS 104 double in 165, but it was only a DS crank arm. I'd have to get a separate 165 ISIS NDS arm. The options for this on eBay were all ebike applications. I guess ISIS is still very popular for middrive motors.

Howitzer crank comes in, the splines are different, I end up having to get the Howitzer XR (road) BB, which comes in 51mm and 56mm chainlines. I got the 51, of course.

Taking the old square taper cranks off goes without a hitch.
Comparing cranks:

Doesn't look that different, but trust me, you feel it.
The old square taper crank looks like it has more lateral width. It does, but you can't really make a direct comparison. The Howitzer spindle is much longer than a square taper:

So it's external cups like modern 2 piece cranks, but has ISIS-like splines on a spindle. Naturally, the cranks shouldn't have as much lateral width, compensating for the long spindle.


After getting the BB and cranks off, I spend like 30min struggling with undoing the chainring bolts.

Note how the bashguard is affixed with phillips screws. I guess the chainring is too thin to use a bolt, where the exposed bolt head would catch your chain.

I have a super lovely tool for the slots on the backside, and I can't imagine how bad it would have been without the tool.

Taking recs for a better one.

Anyways, after wiping down the ring and guard, I at least have some info to try to get a replacement at some point:




To get fancy, I decide to swap on pedals from my nicer commuter. I'd run them for a couple years without any grease, and I gambled that I could make things better by servicing them.
[at this point in my writeup, I realized I forgot to put back in the plastic caps, and went down to the basement to do that]
This sucked. It was already 1:30am and I completely forgot that dry bearings meant the balls would fall out and bounce around right away. Managed to collect all of them and grease things up and then bolt things together. Don't know how this'll play out long term, but it feels like I did the right thing by these pedals that have taken the abuse so well.

Howitzer BB went on with a normal Shimano BB wrench no problem. This is a SRAM product and comes with the 3 2.5mm spacers like GXP cup BBs do.
I decided to bite the bullet and install the spacers wrong for a 68mm shell -- 2 NDS, 1 DS. This shifts the BB to the left by 2.5mm, bringing the 51mm chainline down to 48.5. 1mm should be close enough that I can just tweak the FD a bit.
e: the fact that I could predict this was all down to sticking to one system with specific advertised chainlines, which is a benefit I didn't think of until after the fact. I'd have no clue how to compute chainline with ISIS, where spindles can be any length, and different ISIS cranks probably vary slightly in offset from the spindle interface.

End result:

I measured the Q factor as best as I could, from the center of the frame tube out to the outside of the NDS crank arm.
I got 94mm for the old crank (188mm Q factor!), and 92 for the new (because the BB is shifted left, Q factor is technically 179, if I can pedal off kilter like that).
Quite surprising that the DH crankset is narrower, but I'm not complaining.

Adjusting the FD wasn't too bad, so I'd say the wrong spacer gamble paid off.
I don't notice the shift when riding. The pedals do feel a bit easier to spin at cadence. What caught me off guard is how much harder the bike feels to start off the line. I routinely felt I was one gear too high, sometimes even 2. This was with a toddler in the back, so the total bike weight was probably pushing 100lbs, which might exaggerate the decreased mashing ability.

Cranks were 70g heavier, and the BB maybe ~100, so about 6oz added weight. I bet I dropped a bit with the pedals, too. Can't have this thing getting too heavy.

kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Mar 21, 2022

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

kimbo305 posted:

I have a super lovely tool for the slots on the backside, and I can't imagine how bad it would have been without the tool.
Taking recs for a better one.

Nope, slotted chainring bolts and those janky tools are trash, once out replace bolts with the type that have a 4mm hex one side 5mm the other or whatever it is.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

sweat poteto posted:

Nope, slotted chainring bolts and those janky tools are trash, once out replace bolts with the type that have a 4mm hex one side 5mm the other or whatever it is.

I was hoping there'd be a better tool so I could take these off more easily when I get the both-hex chainring bolts. I only had a set of triples on hand.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

kimbo305 posted:

I was hoping there'd be a better tool so I could take these off more easily when I get the both-hex chainring bolts. I only had a set of triples on hand.

I like the Sugino one, but I don't know if it's still made.
VAR one is good too.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



I hosed down all my gear outside on the patio after a gravel race yesterday, I’ve washed it 3 times, and done 2 extra rinse/spin cycles and there is still sandy grit left in the washer.

Just gravel things.

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

kimbo305 posted:

I was hoping there'd be a better tool so I could take these off more easily when I get the both-hex chainring bolts. I only had a set of triples on hand.

Wonder if you could take a flat screwdriver and dremel out the end to match.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

Dumbass question

If you're doing long distance touring how do you handle saddles + pants? I can't imagine wearing bike pants with padding is doable for weeks.

Do you just get a big comfortable Brooks saddle and roll with normal street pants or what?

I'm trying to put together a Great Allegheny Passage end-to-end trip and I don't want to make a dumb assumption about how the trip will work and find out two days in that my rear end is delaminating

Been thinking about this post a lot (been thinking about my rear end a lot). Finished a trip on snow machine trail 2 weeks ago, and my derriere is about done peeling. I didn't wear bike short, but my buddy did and it sounds like his butt was maybe even more sore than mine. I wonder if by having less padding, I got the message "stand up, get out of the saddle for a minute" more effectively than him. Just speculation of course.
The item I really wish I'd brought was bike gloves. I still have some numbness/weakness in my hands. I used pogies (enough people, including here, acted like I'd be crazy not to) and they were great, but I forgot that taking off the big gloves meant losing that cushion.

Head Bee Guy
Jun 12, 2011

Retarded for Busting
Grimey Drawer
Looking for a new saddle to replace the one that came on my 2020 giant contend 3. Even with decent chamois/bike shorts my taint and sitbones take a beating after only about 20 miles.

For reference, I’ve a twig & berries and fairly narrow hips

I was thinking of picking up a Bontrager sports saddle with my REI coupon, but looking for other suggestions (as long as it’s under $80)

n8r
Jul 3, 2003

I helped Lowtax become a cyborg and all I got was this lousy avatar
Come join a goon bike discord:
https://discord.gg/7P3gzXR

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Hadlock posted:

I know driveshaft bikes are frowned upon as they have ~85% power transfer vs ~96% efficiency of a chain

Why aren't driveshafts more popular for ebikes? Battery prices are low enough now to make up for the ~11% drivetrain efficiency loss, I would think. Seems like with a 3 speed internal hub, sealed driveshaft system and coaster brake you could get 5k-7000 miles between tune ups?
Somebody just left this at my shop after buying another bike. If I'm not too tired after we close I'll crack into it and see why a shaft drive would skip.



I guess I'll also see if I can figure out why they built this with a 230mm q factor.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

CopperHound posted:

Somebody just left this at my shop after buying another bike. If I'm not too tired after we close I'll crack into it and see why a shaft drive would skip.



I guess I'll also see if I can figure out why they built this with a 230mm q factor.

What a loving amazing gift!

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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

CopperHound posted:

Somebody just left this at my shop after buying another bike. If I'm not too tired after we close I'll crack into it and see why a shaft drive would skip.



I guess I'll also see if I can figure out why they built this with a 230mm q factor.

Lack of NDS square taper crank arms that weren't meant for 68mm sized spindles?

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