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Chris Knight posted:unless you're getting it worked on. This person does not understand project bikes and the periods of storage that entails. You could cram a whole junkyard of bikes being worked on through that loophole.
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Mar 11, 2022 23:36
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Mammas, don't let your babies grow up to buy motorcycles with neon wheels. The upside of owning wheels that suck to clean is that it really lowers your standards and the definition of "clean" becomes much easier to achieve.
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Mar 18, 2022 02:06
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I got my streetfighter ceramic coated so it's curing now for another week or so before i start pulling it out frequently. Hope it helps with washing the brake dust off the rims. poo poo was overpriced
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Mar 18, 2022 18:17
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FBS posted:Mammas, don't let your babies grow up to buy motorcycles with neon wheels. This is why I am no fan of chrome, total pain in the rear end to keep shiny.
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Mar 18, 2022 19:30
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Steakandchips posted:This is why I am no fan of chrome, total pain in the rear end to keep shiny.  https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/mcy/d/safford-custom-chrome-hayabusa/7458848640.html
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Mar 18, 2022 19:38
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Does Phoenix even get any rain?
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Mar 18, 2022 19:44
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If it doesn’t get rain, it probably gets dust and pollen. It’s Barely rained this summer, and my bike is absolutely filthy. Covered in a fine yellowey brown dusting of hayfever. FBS posted:The upside of owning wheels that suck to clean is that it really lowers your standards and the definition of "clean" becomes much easier to achieve. My DRZs spokes are black with brake dust. After the 3rd time trying to keep them clean I’ve just given up. Considering taking the wheels off and going to town with scotchbrite, but it’ll be back soon enough. Doesn’t help 90% of my riding now is doing Gymkhana in a parking lot dragging the rear brake. Horse Clocks fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Mar 18, 2022 |
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Mar 18, 2022 20:05
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Phoenix gets heavy monsoon-like thunderstorms for two weeks a year in August. Outside of that, no.
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Mar 18, 2022 20:06
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Real chrome can do one, it always ends up looking lovely because it gets sandblasted by dust and debris and then the metal underneath rots as water finds its way in through tiny holes in the plating. As a finish it exists entirely to keep bikes looking good in the showroom before they've ever actually seen a road. Mirror polished stainless steel, now that's the good stuff. Even after 3 years of all weather riding it only takes a few wipes with a soapy rag to get my wheel rims sparkling again (not that I bother very often lol) Renaissance Robot fucked around with this message at 14:36 on Mar 19, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 14:34
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Looking for a sanity check here early in the process: I'm working on attaching a Shad mounting plate to the rear rack of the Triumph. The PO's rack is already flaking chrome, so I'm not worried about protecting it, but I am worried about the case not flying off at 80mph. The plan: Since the rack is bar-type and those bars are too fat and far apart to use in any Shad-intended way, my first approach here is to sandwich the rack between the plastic Shad plate on top and a couple 1/8" aluminum plates below using 4 bolts. Those bolts would go through the side gaps in the rack illustrated with red dots below, and the aluminum plates will be sized large enough to cover those side gaps fully. Given the bolt positions available, the top & bottom plates will have nothing preventing front-back and side-side movement of < 1/2" within the rack's side loops, except for the clamping pressure/friction on those bars. So I'm torn as to whether it would be better to add a spongy vinyl mat layer between the bars and the topcase mount to help keep it from moving fore and aft. I'm a little afraid that it will compress and degrade over the time, leading to loose bolts. For the aluminum plates on the underside, would 1/8" "welding tickets" for welding practice be suited for this purpose (reasonably strong, and not brittle)? I'm picturing thick aluminum plates but maybe these are the metal equivalent of MDF made from recycled mountain dew cans? Shad mounting Plate:  Rack, probably: Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Mar 20, 2022 |
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Mar 19, 2022 16:52
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Adding a cushion is overthinking it, clamp pressure will hold everything still enough. Especially if you put a little bend in the strips to make it like this kind of kit, you can have them grab the cross piece of your rack to really lock everything down.
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Mar 20, 2022 02:56
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Remy Marathe posted:Looking for a sanity check here early in the process: I'm working on attaching a Shad mounting plate to the rear rack of the Triumph. The PO's rack is already flaking chrome, so I'm not worried about protecting it, but I am worried about the case not flying off at 80mph. If you're attaching to steel tubing I would just grab some u-bolts if you can make them line up and don't care about the finish on the rack, but I've had no issues with Givi universal plates bolted to flat racks. Use some loctite. Monitor it for excessive vibration, vibration very very bad. Anything spongy or rubbery in there will just trap and hold water.
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Mar 21, 2022 17:46
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Yesterday I did a pad swap up front, and brought home the coolant hardlines that I've been slacking off on stripping and repainting, so now I don't have the excuse of having to schlep down to my folks' garage to finish that up. Are the brass bushings in stock levers replaceable? I noticed when doing my clutch stuff rebuild last month that the one where it's pinned through has ovaled out. It might be new levers time anyway, my brake lever is a lot more bent than I remember. Guessing that happened when I dropped it in my yard in the fall.
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Mar 21, 2022 18:10
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Phy posted:Yesterday I did a pad swap up front, and brought home the coolant hardlines that I've been slacking off on stripping and repainting, so now I don't have the excuse of having to schlep down to my folks' garage to finish that up. It's new lever time!
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Mar 21, 2022 18:42
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I got my topcase mount installed with the last of the daylight today, this is huge convenience-wise for me because I have outdoor bike storage and my case serves as a mobile trunk for gear and the other things you don't leave outside overnight. Having the same mount on both bikes means no shuffling around of "bike trunk stuff". Warning: this post contains depictions of violence against vintage aesthetics, good taste, and maybe even motorcycle heritage itself. First what I did TO my Triumph last week: the P.O. spent over $600 on the OEM waxed brown leather saddlebags and mounts, and they were indeed very nice looking and well made. Not very practical for me and I don't really have that nostalgia thing, but a gorgeous used bike bonus. Anyway I grabbed the right bag to take a quick ride one evening before putting it away, took what turned out to be a longer ride and came back to realize it was not on my bike. I didn't honestly even remember putting it on for sure; most likely I rode off all willy-nilly without buckling the pannier. Hopefully it didn't cause any serious trouble for drivers, but I retraced the whole prior ride and there was no trace of it. Lost the right-hand pannier, my cover, a $110 disc lock and an assortment of bungee cords. The VanVan has had to spend the last several days on the patio while I waited for a replacement lock. So yeah I'll use the left saddlebag when I need more storage, but I'll hate every additional strap-buckling motion, the panniers are loving dead to me now. For the topcase mount, today I got those "welding tickets", which do appear to be just what I needed: strongish 1/8" aluminum plates cut in the sizes I was after. I've only recently learned to drill aluminum properly, i.e. at low speed and pressing hard to be continually biting into fresh metal, and it made drilling these plates pretty straightforward. 3 bolt holes per plate plus a big hole for the top rack's posts which I had completely failed to account for in planning. I took the advice on not padding it, glad I did as the result was extremely tight. I'll check again after a few rides, but went hog wild: blue threadlock, vinyl locknuts and split washers. Threadlocked the plate's center bolt really tight, then loosened, threadlocked and re-tightened the front and rear. Shook a chicken.
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Mar 22, 2022 06:08
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The end result is... not the prettiest, with the bolts fairly visible. Very practical, which is its own kind of beauty, and I believe it's a lot more solid than it looks below. Also an orange cargo net because there is no god.
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Mar 22, 2022 06:13
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I decked my bike out in very utilitarian SW Motech bags, so I hear you. Practicality over aesthetics. (Mostly.) That really sucks losing the pannier like that, though. Bonus points for my large bag fitting on my scooter, too.  
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Mar 22, 2022 06:35
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Remy Marathe posted:Shook a chicken. This is a Teutonic-level of over engineering that I appreciate. Now cut those bolts shorter for some kickass weight savings.
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Mar 22, 2022 11:21
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I'd actually like to cut those bolts just to tidy it up, and there's a bolt cutter around here somewhere. If I left these with 1/8" of bolt exposed, think I'd be risking deforming the stainless steel bolt's nut area ("nut zone")?Geekboy posted:SW Motech bags Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Mar 22, 2022 |
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Mar 22, 2022 14:55
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Remy Marathe posted:With the hidden mount do these also discourage tailgaters? I mean, hopefully. The bag on the top would sit flat if I wasn’t using the Tall Boy seat. At some point I may have a custom seat made because while this is a huge improvement on the stock seat, I don’t love it. That’s only if I keep the bike long term, of course. We have great custom seat people near Portland, but none of them are cheap. I think the $500 or so they start at is totally reasonable, but if I decide I want a different bike next summer, I’m gonna be real annoyed at that money spent.
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Mar 22, 2022 20:23
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Remy Marathe posted:I'd actually like to cut those bolts just to tidy it up, and there's a bolt cutter around here somewhere. If I left these with 1/8" of bolt exposed, think I'd be risking deforming the stainless steel bolt's nut area ("nut zone")? I'd suggest a cutoff wheel, not a bolt cutter, and if those bolts are stainless I hope the nuts are nylocks or you're gonna have a bad time if you ever try to take that plate off
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Mar 22, 2022 20:43
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Traded in my old bike and got a shiny new drz400s. As I said a while ago in the bike recommendation thread, I wasn’t riding my cb500x any more, as my ST1300 was a better tourer and commuter with the gear I had to carry. It’s fantastic for the little bit I got to ride today, and as soon as the weather’s a bit warmer I plan to go out and break it in. 
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Mar 22, 2022 22:24
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Jazzzzz posted:I'd suggest a cutoff wheel, not a bolt cutter, and if those bolts are stainless I hope the nuts are nylocks or you're gonna have a bad time if you ever try to take that plate off I think I'm in luck, the silver bolts got matching stainless nylon locknuts. Stainless bolt on regular stainless nut=bad? And I guess a cutoff wheel goes onto the tool wishlist, maybe time to finally look into what dremmels can do.
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Mar 22, 2022 22:43
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I fitted the engine back into the frame on my DRZ but the oil hose to the lower sump has a stripped bolt hole so I just ordered some helicoils. I'm scared to drill into the block since I gather you need to drill DEEPER to give the helicoil tang space to break off, but I don't want to break through the block so I'm going to do a test drill on my old busted engine first. I also started looking into the wiring loom I dismantled when the bike was being torn apart and.. man, I'm not looking forward to running all those cables again. Which I guess I should have phrased as "man I have no idea where ANY of these cables go" but I'm too embarrassed to admit it out loud. Oops. I'll get them routed somehow. No guarantees they'll be CORRECTLY routed, only that they'll get to their destination one way or another. Snapshot posted:Traded in my old bike and got a shiny new drz400s. As I said a while ago in the bike recommendation thread, I wasn’t riding my cb500x any more, as my ST1300 was a better tourer and commuter with the gear I had to carry. It’s fantastic for the little bit I got to ride today, and as soon as the weather’s a bit warmer I plan to go out and break it in. It's so shiny and new 
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Mar 22, 2022 |
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Mar 22, 2022 23:33
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It is shiny and new and you need to rectify that immediately 
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Mar 22, 2022 23:53
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I love that colorway.
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Mar 23, 2022 00:30
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Verman posted:I love that colorway. If the yellow were a little orangier it would be "road"
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Mar 23, 2022 00:35
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:It is shiny and new and you need to rectify that immediately I hear you, but it’s going to piss freezing rain tomorrow.
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Mar 23, 2022 00:49
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Snapshot posted:Traded in my old bike and got a shiny new drz400s. As I said a while ago in the bike recommendation thread, I wasn’t riding my cb500x any more, as my ST1300 was a better tourer and commuter with the gear I had to carry. It’s fantastic for the little bit I got to ride today, and as soon as the weather’s a bit warmer I plan to go out and break it in. This needs dirt on RIGHT NOW. Congrats!
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Mar 23, 2022 00:53
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Snapshot posted:Traded in my old bike and got a shiny new drz400s. As I said a while ago in the bike recommendation thread, I wasn’t riding my cb500x any more, as my ST1300 was a better tourer and commuter with the gear I had to carry. It’s fantastic for the little bit I got to ride today, and as soon as the weather’s a bit warmer I plan to go out and break it in. gently caress yeah
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Mar 23, 2022 01:26
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Remy Marathe posted:I think I'm in luck, the silver bolts got matching stainless nylon locknuts. Stainless bolt on regular stainless nut=bad? Stainless fasteners gall like a motherfucker if you don't put anti-seize or some form of grease on them. With nylocks there's no metal-on-metal thread contact, so you should be OK Snapshot posted:Traded in my old bike and got a shiny new drz400s. As I said a while ago in the bike recommendation thread, I wasn’t riding my cb500x any more, as my ST1300 was a better tourer and commuter with the gear I had to carry. It’s fantastic for the little bit I got to ride today, and as soon as the weather’s a bit warmer I plan to go out and break it in. That's a nice biek, go get it dirty
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Mar 23, 2022 04:18
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Jazzzzz posted:Stainless fasteners gall like a motherfucker if you don't put anti-seize or some form of grease on them. With nylocks there's no metal-on-metal thread contact, so you should be OK idk about thread galling one way or the other, but nyloc nuts absolutely have metal-on-metal thread contact. the locking part is a thin nylon ring that the threads of the bolt bite into, but the clamping force comes from regular metal threads. 
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Mar 23, 2022 04:29
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Hose the bolts with Honda polish and deal with it in a few years, got it!
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Mar 23, 2022 05:48
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Remy Marathe posted:Hose the bolts with Honda polish and let the NO deal with it in a few years, got it!
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Mar 23, 2022 16:43
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Remy Marathe posted:And I guess a cutoff wheel goes onto the tool wishlist, maybe time to finally look into what dremmels can do. Do it! Even the cheap generic ones are ridiculously useful, the one I have is identical to the Silverline branded one and has been chugging along for a few years now.
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Mar 23, 2022 17:22
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Sagebrush posted:idk about thread galling one way or the other, but nyloc nuts absolutely have metal-on-metal thread contact. the locking part is a thin nylon ring that the threads of the bolt bite into, but the clamping force comes from regular metal threads. this is what I get for tiredposting anyway, put antiseize or grease on stainless fasteners if you ever plan on unfastening them
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Mar 23, 2022 17:57
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Snapshot posted:I hear you, but it’s going to piss freezing rain tomorrow. It's a DRZ.
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Mar 23, 2022 18:46
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Jazzzzz posted:this is what I get for tiredposting OK so seriouspost- Greasing the threads will work against my threadlocking & anti-vibration-loosening measures right? Would I have been better off using cheaper zinc fasteners for this application? I went with the stainless steel because "marine/outdoor applications" sounded like a good way to avoid corrosion and removal issues, but from what you describe and the swiss cheese phillips heads on top it sounds like I might actually be cruising for a bruising when I want my plate off it.
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Mar 23, 2022 20:06
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I was about to say any fasteners that get replaced on my pedal bikes always get replaced with stainless and I've never had anything get stuck but then i realized i always grease them  They also get to live in the house which means i have to keep them clean enough that i don't get murdered for bringing them in the house
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Mar 23, 2022 20:17
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Remy Marathe posted:OK so seriouspost- Greasing the threads will work against my threadlocking & anti-vibration-loosening measures right? Would I have been better off using cheaper zinc fasteners for this application? No, it won't - hell the threadlocker may help prevent galling itself for all I know. Galling happens when you strip the oxide layer off the top of the metal and apply heat - guess what you're doing when you overtighten a nut? Just put a thin film of some lubricant on the bolt and don't torque the everloving poo poo out of the nut when you're tightening it up.
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Mar 23, 2022 21:11
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