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right arm posted:I shoot guns all the time with ANC headphones and I’ve got no problems The shooter's muffs I've seen work a little differently - when they're turned off they provide enough isolation/attenuation for safety by themselves. When they're on it just enables a microphone that picks up ambient sound around you. Sound gets too loud, mic gets turned off real fast. I wouldn't take a Bose noise canceling headset to the range ANC airpods/earbuds are relying on the wave cancellation LimaBiker talked about + whatever you get from having them stuffed in your ears, which might not be much since it depends on how well they seal
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Mar 22, 2022 20:38
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interesting. mine work like airpods pro switching from transparency mode to noise cancellation mode instantaneously alternatively: WHAT??
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Mar 22, 2022 20:49
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Captain McAllister posted:One of these is a very worthwhile addition to a tool collection. It's so weird, I keep driving to home depot to use theirs and never once thought about just.. you know.. buying my own. Probably paid more than $18 in gas over the years just making that trip.
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Mar 22, 2022 21:25
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Home Depot sells the little flappy card version on the same aisle
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Mar 22, 2022 21:28
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Last time I tried Fastenal they told me they are now exclusively Business-to-Business sales and no longer provide retail services. I wept. Are they still out there selling to schmucks off the street without telling me, or did you also just get some bad news about Fastenal?
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Mar 22, 2022 21:36
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I have a I still rue the day the best local bolt shop closed its doors. Want a reduced head Allen socket m10 fine pitch fully threaded 75mm long? Just need one, not a box of 50? Here you go boss that'll be 46¢ cash on the barrelhead. Course, poo poo like that's probably why they ended up closing.
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Mar 22, 2022 22:27
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RadioPassive posted:Last time I tried Fastenal they told me they are now exclusively Business-to-Business sales and no longer provide retail services. I wept. Within the last two months I walked into the local Fastenal and bought a bolt with a 17mm head and two nuts to make a homemade removal tool for the front axle of my F800GS. The guy didn't say a thing about being business to business, and they had racks full of bins full of fasteners that appeared to be self serve.
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Mar 22, 2022 22:32
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Man what the gently caress Fastenal??
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Mar 22, 2022 22:33
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RadioPassive posted:Last time I tried Fastenal they told me they are now exclusively Business-to-Business sales and no longer provide retail services. I wept. My local branch says they're B2B on their Google listing, and aren't open for walk-ins, but I was able to order a few small fasteners on their website and do a pickup.
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Mar 22, 2022 22:35
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RadioPassive posted:Man what the gently caress Fastenal?? Probably covid related.
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Mar 22, 2022 22:39
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LimaBiker posted:Re: active noice canceling When the pros came out i read all about how the ANC works and in theory that sounds great for under the helmet... but i'm afraid that it could turn out to be a situation like when you have dark sunglasses on that don't have UV protection as it opens your irises and causes more damage because the UV isn't blocked. Basically I don't want to find out later that even though I couldn't hear much noise, it was still damaging my hearing. And I don't even know if that makes sense after writing that sentence 
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Mar 23, 2022 00:52
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Nah it makes sense, to me anyway. 1 + (-1) = 0, but I’m afraid that it actually equals 1.25 or something. I refer again to my girlfriend’s headphones which I find genuinely uncomfortable when noise cancelling is active. Also is the AirPod able to calculate and perfectly time the invert wave faster than the speed of sound for what must be like 0.3mm? Idk maybe.
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Mar 23, 2022 01:15
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Toe Rag posted:Nah it makes sense, to me anyway. 1 + (-1) = 0, but I’m afraid that it actually equals 1.25 or something. I refer again to my girlfriend’s headphones which I find genuinely uncomfortable when noise cancelling is active. Also is the AirPod able to calculate and perfectly time the invert wave faster than the speed of sound for what must be like 0.3mm? Idk maybe. Yes, it's the reason ANC used to be only available in rather large analog circuits, because that used to be the only way to have the corresponding 'anti noise' be live enough for the intended effect. I am also in doubt about ANC having a protective effect, because even though the frequencies are supposed to cancel out, there is no attenuation and therefore nothing stopping the pressure from reaching your ears. As long as there are no conclusive studies on the protective properites of 'open' ANC systems I won't trust that to be safe.
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Mar 23, 2022 06:51
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This isn't a "how do I make a thing look good" question but the bolts holding the engine to the DRZ were rusted like they'd been salvaged from the Titanic. I wire wheeled them down a little, probably for no reason other than I was bored, but it got me thinking to ask whether there's anything I could do to .. I dunno, protect them a little? I slathered them in a little bit of grease so maybe that's enough, but is there anything else obvious I could treat them with? The bike will be long dead (knowing me) before engine bolts rusting become an actual addressable issue, so more of a "well I've got a little bit of time to kill" question. e: Short of electro-plating them I mean. I suspect just rubbing a little bit of waterproof grease will be enough, then locktite on the threads. e2: OK sorry I thought of an actual useful question. Two parter on helicoils: - Is snapping the tang off a helicoil necessary? The oil hose bolt hole isn't terribly deep and I'm worried the helicoils that came with my kit might bottom out with no room to snap the tang. If it's just a matter of making sure the bolt has enough teeth to bite, I can probably adjust that on the other side by adding a washer, but i'm not entirely sure I'll have room at the bottom of the hole to snap off the tang. Which leads to my second question, - How bad an idea is it to cut a helicoil? I'd guess you'd want to do it with a sharp pair of cutters before you insert rather than monkeying with it after you insert it, but is it just generally a bad idea? I'm going to hit the shop later with a pair of calipers and do a depth reading but I'm prepared for the fact that it might be a shallow-ish hole with a deep helicoil. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Mar 23, 2022 |
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Mar 23, 2022 11:21
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SEKCobra posted:Yes, it's the reason ANC used to be only available in rather large analog circuits, because that used to be the only way to have the corresponding 'anti noise' be live enough for the intended effect. By definition active noise cancelling cannot cancel sound pressure levels higher than what the driver in the earphone can produce, so there is a hard ceiling on how much protection they can provide. They also tail off badly at higher frequencies, which can be the most damaging to hearing because they're so much less perceptible. Also, as Russian Bear points out, by reducing the perceived noise they might encourage you to remain in areas where the noise is below the immediate damage threshold but in the long-term damage zone. On an individual product basis, imperfect noise cancelling can of course make things considerably worse by reinforcing some frequencies in some circumstances, and transient noise from the cancellation can cause balance and equilibrium problems, not ideal on a bike. I think most importantly there's currently no evidence at all that they can protect from long-term hearing damage (and all manufacturers of noise cancelling systems that *aren't* backed by massive, passive broadband noise attenuation are extremely careful not to say that they can) while there's plenty of good-quality evidence that bog standard earplugs do (and my 3Ms don't need to be fully charged in order to work). ANC is *great* for situations where you're spending a lot of time in annoying, but non-damaging, noisy environments like commercial airliners, but I'll stick with the big jar of earplugs I bought several years ago for £20 which will last me at least another couple of years when it comes to actually protecting my hearing.
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Mar 23, 2022 11:44
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some kinda jackal posted:This isn't a "how do I make a thing look good" question but the bolts holding the engine to the DRZ were rusted like they'd been salvaged from the Titanic. I wire wheeled them down a little, probably for no reason other than I was bored, but it got me thinking to ask whether there's anything I could do to .. I dunno, protect them a little? I slathered them in a little bit of grease so maybe that's enough, but is there anything else obvious I could treat them with? Suzuki is notorious for their fastener quality. Grease will keep them from flash rusting again, if you really want them to look nice they'd either have to be replaced or re-finished with a better coating. Another option after they are in place is to clean the bolt head with acetone then slap a little clear coat paint on them with a small brush, this is real rivet-counter stuff.
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Mar 23, 2022 13:42
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Totally anecdotal, but as a fellow tinnitus-haver, when I was selecting a headset for flying helicopters, my instructor specifically advised me against ANC headsets BECAUSE I was so concerned about looking after my hearing. He said something along the lines of ANC sometimes not being great for people with sensitive ears, in that they could be fatiguing.. I took that as a sign the actual sound levels must still be high enough in some way to be a bother, and just opted for passive attenuation.
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Mar 23, 2022 14:22
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some kinda jackal posted:I don't know if it's tinnitus, I suspect it is, but I just have a constant high pitched whine in my head. I can't even describe the sound in terms of real life equivalent but it's everpresent and, while I can mostly tune it out, if I become cognizant of it then the rest of my day is spent being annoyed by it. Tinnitus chat: I do not have tinnitus, because I'm afraid that if I admitted that I did, I'd lose the ability to tune out what I worry is tinnitus, and I'd go mental I've already come dangerously close to noticing it for too long trying to type this up
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Mar 23, 2022 17:18
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I spend so much of my time around electronics I honestly can't tell which whines are real and which are imaginary. Pretty sure most of them are real, but then sometimes I'll just be minding my own business in a totally quiet room and my brain decides to blow a ref's whistle in my ear. Thanks, brain. Thrain.
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Mar 23, 2022 17:32
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I just learned that it's possible to clutchless downshift by blipping the throttle and putting pressure on the shift pedal, anyone regularly do this, is it a bad idea? I was watching a Ninja 400 video and saw the guy was clutchless shifting, I asked what quickshifter he was using and he said his wasn't working so he was just doing it manually. Completely new to me that it's possible, but I could fill an internet with what I don't know!
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Mar 24, 2022 00:58
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It's tricky but you can. I wouldn't recommend doing it regularly cause doing it smoothly is basically impossible if you've got any speed at all, and for every time you get it right you'll gently caress it up ten times and put a bunch of stress into the gearbox. The whole point of rev matching on downshifts is too make your braking smoother, shorter and more stable. It's counterproductive to then brake less, for longer, just so you can do one weird trick. It's a valuable skill if you break clutch cables often or you have a questionable hydraulic system. If you have a slipper clutch (your bike does) you can just click down 2-3 gears and dump the clutch with lazy blip. Far more efficient.
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Mar 24, 2022 01:16
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Yeah clutchless downshifting is totally pointless IMO. Clutchless upshifting is fine because it's easy and more-or-less risk-free. If you watch any videos of racers putting in fast laps you may notice they use the clutch on their downshifts (if their bike isn't FBW). How did your track day go, by the way? I saw your post in the newbie thread but didn't follow up since it's not necessary newbie thread appropriate topic.
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Mar 24, 2022 02:00
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Sweet, makes sense, the timing seems to be way complicated than I could manage smoothly. Track was a blast, I ended up doing two in the last couple months and managed to not crash. Just took it easy and worked on basics, getting smoother, finding the right lines, and starting to work on body position. Still incredibly slow but gradually gaining confidence and getting in gradually more lean angle on turns. Thinking about doing another next month, depending on how hot it gets.
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Mar 24, 2022 04:44
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 I booked a track day for next month. Unfortunately the track is 250 miles away and since we’re cheapskates we’re going to drive down at like 1am and hope it’s not a terrible idea (don’t want to pay 2 days for the truck rental). Not sure how many I’ll be able to afford this year. There’s an Aprilia “Racers Days” at Laguna Seca I want to go to, but it’s $450  add in a truck/van rental plus gas and it’s probably $800 
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Mar 24, 2022 05:08
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My helicoils are coming in today and I'm going to do a test fit on the old engine block before I drill into my "good" engine, but in the back of my head I'm wondering how worried I need to be when tapping this hole: The only reason I ask is that the walls seem kind of thin and I'm not sure how much outward pressure tapping puts on the surrounding aluminum. Driling I'm not too concerned about, for some reason, but I can see the teeth of the tap exerting a bit of outward pressure. Two questions: 1) is there a "best practice" when tapping a thin walled aluminum surface? Go slow because fast is bad? Go fast because slow is bad? Downward pressure? Lube? Dry? Pray? Blood sacrifice? 2) Is that actually thin-looking aluminum? It looks thin to me but maybe it's Perfectly Fine™. Depending on the casting quality I guess, but I have this nightmare scenario running around my mind where I get halfway into tapping this and I see a big crack down one side. My old engine will be a good test-bed but I'd rather know I'm doing the test-tap to perfect my technique and not "oh I'll use this opportunity to see what breaks" since I don't have a second spare engine to test on. Yes I'm being a worry-wart, no I don't care. I have these stupid amateur questions driving to anxiety and now you have to deal with the result 
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Mar 24, 2022 11:34
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Toe Rag posted:
I'm lucky in that I have a small track in west Phoenix (way west Phoenix) that has regular track days for $150. They don't have many amenities but it's a perfect setup for a small bike and close enough I can ride to it, I rented a van once but it was way more hassle. Plus I know someone who lives close by I can talk into bringing over a folding chair and anything else I can't carry with me.
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Mar 24, 2022 15:45
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some kinda jackal posted:My helicoils are coming in today and I'm going to do a test fit on the old engine block before I drill into my "good" engine, but in the back of my head I'm wondering how worried I need to be when tapping this hole: Tapping a hole doesn't exert significant outward pressure if you drilled the hole to the correct size first. If the hole is the right size for the tap, only the teeth will be larger in diameter, and they work by cutting, not forcing the metal apart. If the hole you drilled is too small, then yes you will be pushing on the metal as you try to cram the tap in, and that's no good. Use the drill size specified for the tap. Use downwards pressure at first until the teeth bite, and then stop putting downward pressure and let the tap advance itself. Use a tapping or cutting fluid, or if you don't have any, heavy oil should work fine. Don't turn the tap forwards all the way to the bottom of the hole. Turn it about a half turn forward, stop, back out a full turn to break the chip (you'll feel it resist and then release), turn back to where it starts to bite, do another half turn, and repeat the process. If it's a blind hole, after three or four turns forward, back it out all the way and blow out the chips before continuing.
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Mar 24, 2022 19:49
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Anyone heard about the new Michelin Road 6? Apparently it's the Road 5 with better wet performance and longer tread life.
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Mar 26, 2022 16:50
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I think this has been mentioned before but I can’t seem to find it, if I’ve opened a bottle of DOT 5 a couple years ago, it’s junk by now, moisture wise, right?
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Mar 26, 2022 17:45
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Pour some in a shot glass. If it looks like a good whisky, then it's bad. If it looks straw/pale yellow, it's good. I just bought some fresh stuff. My Suzuki's front brake fluid is turning orange and that means it's probably well overdue for a change, though it only took 2 years to reach that color.
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Mar 26, 2022 17:59
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Maybe get one of these testers. I'm pretty sure I've thrown away good brake fluid. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHMpxXGkXzw I'll get one when I'm closer to a brake service.
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Mar 26, 2022 18:07
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All fine advice except dot 5 is usually purple, and it isn't hydroscopic so the bottle can stay unsealed indefinitely. I would decant it to make sure there isn't bubbles of water or other stuff floating in it but age-wise it's no issue at all. Fwiw dot4 comes in a wide variety of shades oyt of the bottle, some is basically clear, some is blue, some dark amber.
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Mar 26, 2022 18:48
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Ah yeah, the .1 in 5.1 is apparently a big difference.
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Mar 26, 2022 21:59
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The only remaining mystery is why Harley and Harley alone use dot 5. Clearly the water absorbing properties are unnecessary cause I can tell you regular dot 4 systems gently caress out a lot more often than Harley's dot 5, I suspect this is because dot 5 doesn't really deteriorate over time the same way dot 4 does so owner negligence has less effect. But it could also be that it doesn't harm paint work and Harley have clumsy factory workers; unlike most Japanese bikes, most Harleys don't have a sealed pre-bled brake system bolted on as a unit (layout often makes it impossible) which means someone at the factory is filling and bleeding that poo poo.
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Mar 26, 2022 22:07
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Its excessive imo to use dot5 on something like that but good for them I guess. Probably makes sense for something that accumulates 500 miles over 20 years while sitting in a dingy midwestern garage. 3, 4, 5.1 are interchangeable. 5 is the outsider here.
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Mar 26, 2022 22:26
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From a few weeks ago:epswing posted:I've got a front tire that pumps up and appears to hold pressure, but is completely flat the next morning. Pumped it back up and added soap and water, but don't see any bubbles. I can't tell how quickly it's losing pressure, the shop is about 15km away, and I'm not sure I can wheelie the whole way there. I'm probably going to take the wheel off and bring that to the shop. Why didn't the bubble trick work? As advised, yesterday I replaced the valve core on the leaky front tire, but when I first tried to air up the tire, which was completely flat, it wouldn't air up at all. I realized when I gave it air, air was venting at the bead near the valve stem, I assumed because the tire was deformed due to the weight of the bike resting on an empty tire. I jacked the bike up to take the weight off, and it aired up to 36 PSI just fine. This morning (~12 hours later) it's 26 PSI, so looks like it's the bead, not the valve. I have a new set of tires I wanted to get on anyways (at a shop), so I'm planning to air up, ride it to the shop (20 minutes away), and have them swap the new tires on, which should take care of my problem. epswing fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Mar 28, 2022 |
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Mar 27, 2022 14:24
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Hate when the air leaves the tyre. It should just stay in.
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Mar 27, 2022 21:05
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Damnit air, you had one job!!
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Mar 27, 2022 21:12
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Ok thanks everyone who’s helped with the electrical DRZ stuff so far. I’ve given up working on it until it gets a little warmer since electrical wiring seems to be way too stiff to freely bend in a -6 workshop. So I’ll toss this out there. Does anyone happen to know where the (-) battery lead wire in these two diagrams terminates? I know what cable they’re talking about, it’s the one cable I still don’t really have a clue about. Doesn’t seem to be the one that goes to the starter relay since that’s on the other side of the frame and I think is already connected. Doesn’t seem like it goes to the rectifier or stator. Honestly just kind of shrugging my shoulders.   Maybe the diagram clearly shows where it terminates but I’m just not seeing it. E: The logical wiring diagram only shows two cables coming out of the battery — one to the starter relay, and one to the “regulator” but the regulator has a separate connector into the harness already it seems so idk.
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Mar 27, 2022 23:33
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iirc the ground wire goes to somewhere on the engine case. It doesn't matter a lot as long as its not bolted to a painted surface.
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Mar 28, 2022 01:10
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