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Jazzzzz posted:No, it won't - hell the threadlocker may help prevent galling itself for all I know. Galling happens when you strip the oxide layer off the top of the metal and apply heat - guess what you're doing when you overtighten a nut? Just put a thin film of some lubricant on the bolt and don't torque the everloving poo poo out of the nut when you're tightening it up. The problem with stainless fasteners is that stainless generally sucks for Doing Things and is mostly just useful for looking pretty on boats and shoving in your mouth. I think the galling thing is down to the fact that a stainless fastener has a much lower threshold of 'too tight' because it doesn't stretch anywhere near as far as high tensile before permanently deforming, so it's much easier to over tighten inadvertantly and mash the thread. Also it's a few posts ago now but I can confirm that the presence of that top box on that bike is, in fact, a war crime and I WILL be reporting you to the Hague
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Mar 23, 2022 21:16
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Stainless bolts for the mirrors that replaced the rusty regular steel bolts on my Honda were a good use case for stainless IMO, looked better not-rusty, and didn't need an enormous amount of torque and aren't in a safety critical where "wrong type of steel" is a worry.
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Mar 23, 2022 22:28
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Looks like I have some bolts to break, grease and re-threadlock then. I did torque the hell out of them (stopped only when I saw the plastic starting to deform up top) and during the tightening process did find they got unusually hot.Slavvy posted:Also it's a few posts ago now but I can confirm that the presence of that top box on that bike is, in fact, a war crime and I WILL be reporting you to the Hague
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Mar 23, 2022 22:54
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In his defence you have just basically taken a giant greasy Taco Bell dump all over the rear of that beautiful bike.
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Mar 23, 2022 23:21
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Oh these war crimes are not in dispute. Under the rubble some day they will find tacky orange aluminum valve stem caps and shake their fists at me, but I will be gone far far away on my needlessly ratted out Bonneville. Edit: Okay all bolts have received boogers of grease and fresh threadlock between nut and bolt, thanks from the future Jazzzzzz. Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 02:38 on Mar 24, 2022 |
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Mar 23, 2022 23:54
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All Top Boxes Are Good
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Mar 24, 2022 03:15
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they're good storage brent I picked up Tusk side pannier racks for my DRZ shortly before it exploded. I can't wait to get the matching side boxes for it and do a proper grocery run on two wheels without a backpack.
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Mar 24, 2022 11:49
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Just for future reference, you want zinc plated bolts for your bike. Not stainless, not galvanized, not black oxide. Bright zinc plated. Black oxide is a temporary coating that really only prevents corrosion while the bolts are sitting in a bin at the store. Those bolts will all rust within a year or so of being exposed to the weather. Stainless is only necessary in situations like marine environments where you have to deal with heavy chemical corrosion, or where you expect the part to be pounded on and damaged and a zinc plating would eventually flake off. Stainless steel is not as strong as the plain steel underneath the plated bolt. It's fine for non-structural parts, as people have mentioned, but not to replace things where the bolt snapping would be immediately dangerous. (There are different grades of stainless fasteners with different strengths, of course, but the bag of stainless bolts on eBay is not going to be the strong stuff). Galvanized bolts are dipped in molten zinc and have very high corrosion resistance, but the heavy zinc coating means they only work with galvanized fasteners. You can't (properly) put a galvanized bolt into a tapped hole in your engine case. Zinc plated bolts are electroplated, leaving a thin but strong protective layer that doesn't change the thread geometry to any significant degree. They can be made with the strongest steel and can replace the original fasteners one to one. They are also usually a little cheaper than stainless. Best choice all around. Note that some of the weird backwards countries call all zinc coated bolts "galvanized" and you might have to figure out whether they are talking about the hot dip process or the electrical process. Plated bolts are bright and shiny and smooth, while galvanized ones are gray and have a mottled pattern and are kind of rough. Fortunately in America we have two different terms so we don't have to deal with that crap.
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Mar 24, 2022 20:07
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(I do have several bags of those cheap eBay stainless fasteners in M3, M4, M5 etc but I only use them for 3D printed parts and other things where strength doesn't really matter)
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Mar 24, 2022 20:08
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also re. the top box travesty, probably no one is going to call you out on it, but in most jurisdictions it is illegal to have anything that sticks out on the back of the bike past the license plate. this is why new bikes all come with the dumb plastic scorpion tail plate holder instead of just mounting the plate to the fender like makes so much more sense. so beware if you have rear end in a top hat cops who like to pull people over for dumb poo poo like that. if you regularly see people riding around with the license plate crammed up inside the fender etc then it's probably fine.
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Mar 24, 2022 20:24
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Slavvy just added your bolt post to the CA manual, which spared me dumping it to a spreadsheet for later, thanks! Legal issues did cross my mind given that there's that much depth between the end of the case and the plate/brakelight. I'm hoping if/when I get that cop, it's a correctable fix-it ticket or warning. The alternative would be to preemptively move the tail lights and plate back further on an aluminum tube (I kid, I kid).
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Mar 24, 2022 21:09
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Drilled, tapped, and helicoiled that oil hose bolt. Seems to be super firm now, really happy with that. The oil hose doesn’t seem to sit flush with the block though. I’ll try to get a photo of it tomorrow. I don’t think I tapped the hole at an angle or anything, it doesn’t want to sit flush even without the connecting bolt. But the hose has an internal sleeve and an o-ring between the block and the hose connector so maybe that’s just how it is. I’ll fiddle around with it a little since it just seems weird and ask more tomorrow once I can get a decent photo. Aside from that though, now I’m at the point of reassembling the DRZ where I’m kind of confused about order of operations. I have a bunch of parts left in labeled bags, electrical components to reattach, still need to fix the carb to the engine, the cooling system, etc. I mean it’s not a big deal to just start slapping things together, it’ll just be a little annoying when I get to the last ziplock baggie of stuff that is now impossible to install because it was supposed to go on before everything made its location inaccessible lol It’s supposed to get cool over the next day or two so maybe this gives me a chance to sit back and come up with a better gameplan. I guess assembling things inside out would make the most sense right now. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Mar 25, 2022 |
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Mar 25, 2022 02:47
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Carb back on the bike, just little bits and pieces going back on. The ziplock baggies are getting sparse. I’m really really avoiding figuring out how everything routes to the electrical harness but I guess no choice now. Might make sense to do all that before I put the cooling stuff in, so I can route what I need without a bunch of hoses in the way. I’m just generally really anxious about the DRZ starting up again when I put the last bolts together. Not sure I can handle a failure at this point and still save my sanity, so I’m going to stay optimistic. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Mar 26, 2022 |
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Mar 26, 2022 22:04
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How many connectors does a drz engine even have? Let's see if I can guess them all Tps Radiator fan switch Crankv pickup Stator Ignition coil Starter power lug Earth lug
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Mar 26, 2022 22:12
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neutral switch. tps optional.
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Mar 26, 2022 22:25
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Not even the amount, just routing things around the frame. I’ll get it done but I forgot where most things route by now so I’m just trying to remember lol Like I’ve got a mystery cable in a baggie that I’m pretty sure goes to negative battery but no idea what the other side goes to lol
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Mar 26, 2022 22:57
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Get the FSM. Its worth it. 
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Mar 27, 2022 00:13
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hella nice, thank youuuu Just snagged the FSM. For some reason I thought the Clymer manual was the thing to go to but here we are. Hmm, the FSM PDFs commonly found online seem to be missing this exact chapter. What a bummer. Go right from 7 to 9. Looks like I'll be hunting for a printed original. e: Though that photo probably gets me exactly where I need to be, thanks again! some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 01:13 on Mar 27, 2022 |
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Mar 27, 2022 01:01
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This week, in cascading stupid owner errors! My pannier loss a week and a half ago included the T120's cover and lock, which led to a series of debacles that illustrate why I shouldn't own nice things: 1- Me, tired and sad that night, putting the vanvan's cheap cover (no heat shielding) on the Triumph. The vanvan runs so cool, I had yet to even remember that you need to let motorcycles cool off before covering. 2- Said cover then had a big melted hole in it when swapped it back to the vanvan, up around the front brake rotor. The T120 looked fine at a glance, so I figured it had just wilted in the heat. I duct-taped the cover and returned to weekday vanvan commuting. 3- After a few rides on the Triumph, which is a few more than it should've taken, I discovered by smell that the cover had in fact remained as a melted black blob on the Triumph's right-side exhaust where it exits the engine, as well as the left exit to a much lesser extent (the cover didn't drape on it). 4- So after a googlin' I did what I thought was an acceptable job covering non-chrome parts so I could use Oven Cleaner and a plastic scraper to remove it from the chrome exhaust. I sorely underestimated the amount of overspray in the wind, and while I was concerned about soft parts I did not yet know the real risk that is chemical etching. Ugly caustic burn spots all over both sides of the otherwise nice aluminum housing; the oven cleaner had sat a good 35 minutes before my mistake was discovered and I doused the case in water. Which leads me to today, where I'm happy to say I had way more luck than I expected or deserved with aluminum polish. I think with another application and some elbow grease most traces should be gone, though I'm probably hosed on the ridged triumph logo. Before & after:
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Mar 27, 2022 02:40
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You'll have to periodically polish that every few months cause it used to have a clear coat over the top to keep it shiny, which is now gone lol
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Mar 27, 2022 02:52
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lol
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Mar 27, 2022 02:54
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Slavvy posted:You'll have to periodically polish that every few months cause it used to have a clear coat over the top to keep it shiny, which is now gone lol Slavvy is right but I have a solution for you! https://www.flood.com/products/paint-additives/penetrol-oil-based-paint-additive Get a can of that stuff (available on Amazon). Polish and clean the case well, then rub on a bunch of the Penetrol with a rag -- just enough to make it look slick and shiny, no need to slobber it on. Let it sit and dry for a day or two (ideally in a warm, still environment). It will cure into a nice airtight clear coat over the metal, protecting it from oxidation. It's not quite as durable as the original coating, but it is tougher and more flexible than clear lacquer in a spray can, and much easier to apply. And you can reapply it just by rubbing on more with a rag. I do it to all aluminum parts after polishing them, and also to any bare steel that's starting to rust. Works great. I highly recommend it. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Mar 27, 2022 |
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Mar 27, 2022 03:08
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The lesson here? Never don’t ride the VanVan
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Mar 27, 2022 04:02
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The lesson here is to only own motorcycles when you're fortunate enough to have a garage. (thank god I have a garage holy poo poo I hated dealing with poo poo like this)
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Mar 27, 2022 04:35
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If this bike wanted to stay pretty it shouldn't have been so grunty and good at hauling short passengers. But yeah, outdoor bikes demand a degree of nihilism.Sagebrush posted:I highly recommend it. Jim Silly-Balls posted:The lesson here? Never don’t ride the VanVan Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 05:09 on Mar 27, 2022 |
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Mar 27, 2022 04:53
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FBS posted:The lesson here is to only own motorcycles when you're fortunate enough to have a garage. When I bought my first bike I didn't have a garage, and kept it under a tarp when the weather was too bad. Once after having it covered for like a month I removed the tarp and the bike was completely covered in ants. cursedshitbox posted:Get the FSM. Its worth it. This should be the title of every thread in CA. Any time I've bought a bike I immediately bought the FSM and it's saved me from so many headaches/YouTube videos.
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Mar 27, 2022 15:37
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Did my first oil change today. Easy and a fraction of the cost of having a garage do it.
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Mar 27, 2022 15:45
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I sorted my mirrors, I think. Sportbike mirrors and I have fold them in to park the bike in my shed since the door is narrow. I messed up the original bolts trying to adjust the friction last year and have had temporary ugly bolts with no threadlock on them and riding around with a hex key in my jacket to tighten them as needed. Now I have nice looking bolts from the fancy bolt store (like €3 worth) loctited in with washers where I deem them appropriate. Hopefully I can fold the mirrors in and out a lot before I have to mess with the bolts again. So far it seems to be working as intended but time will tell. I just realized I'll need a wider shed door if (when) I get a bigger bike. Oh well such is life. re: FSM: I've printed mine from a ginormous pdf of unknown origin and put it in a binder, still worth it. Hundreds and hundreds of pages but real good to have. Bro makes fun of me for wanting it on paper but no way am I faffing around with a laptop or tablet with dirty hands in the garage and paper rules and having it right there and not caring if it gets dropped or greasy rules. I even made a blown up color wiring diagram on A3 paper that folds out which also rules.
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Mar 27, 2022 20:24
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Invalido posted:re: FSM: I've printed mine from a ginormous pdf of unknown origin and put it in a binder, still worth it. Hundreds and hundreds of pages but real good to have. Bro makes fun of me for wanting it on paper but no way am I faffing around with a laptop or tablet with dirty hands in the garage and paper rules and having it right there and not caring if it gets dropped or greasy rules. I even made a blown up color wiring diagram on A3 paper that folds out which also rules. Agreed on all counts. It might be the decades of lovely vehicles speaking but I travel with a pdf on my laptop/phone/kindle and keep a physical copy at home. Its nice to just have on the bench and not give a poo poo about getting dirty or thumbing through screen time-outs or battery depletion. Having a physical wiring diagram owns. Old rear end Rovers supplied em in the owner's manual. imo bikes and such should take notes here.
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Mar 27, 2022 20:34
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I have a lovely tablet relegated for “shop” use but even then I hate using it with dirty fingers. Not because it’s going to get dirty or ruined, but because it’s so much easier to flip through pages than it is to scroll through a PDF and try to wake your tablet when you don’t use it for 2 minutes. Buying the Ninja 650 FSM was a nightmare though. Was out of stock even from Kawasaki and at the time only eBay had an “original” copy for probably 3x its going price. Ended up buying a gray market re-print and scanning and posting it online because gently caress relying on some lovely unlicensed print for forevermore. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Mar 27, 2022 |
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Mar 27, 2022 22:24
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Having the FSM as a searchable pdf is great. I've thought a couple times about going to the effort of printing and binding it, but being able to do keyword searches is just too convenient
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Mar 28, 2022 12:09
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I think this is one of those where if you're just looking something up it's super good to have an OCR'd PDF and if you're actually in the shop with gloves on and a socket wrench in the other then it's easier to flip through printed pages. I'm definitely going to be looking for the printed FSM just for completeness, and invariably if it means I have to cut it apart, scan it, and re-bind it just to give the community an up-to-date PDF then I think I'm going to go down that route. all the PDFs I have right now are incomplete with missing pages and chapters :\
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Mar 28, 2022 12:16
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Probably the main thing I'd want printed out for reference is the wiring diagram, ideally in colour on an A3 sheet. Torque values and work steps are easy enough to look at once and remember, but wiring is something I need to constantly refer back to every five seconds because the rat's nest of cables on the actual bike is bewildering every time
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Mar 28, 2022 12:28
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some kinda jackal posted:I think this is one of those where if you're just looking something up it's super good to have an OCR'd PDF and if you're actually in the shop with gloves on and a socket wrench in the other then it's easier to flip through printed pages. I'm definitely going to be looking for the printed FSM just for completeness, and invariably if it means I have to cut it apart, scan it, and re-bind it just to give the community an up-to-date PDF then I think I'm going to go down that route. all the PDFs I have right now are incomplete with missing pages and chapters :\ I’m going through the dealer to get a copy. Speaking of that, does anyone want the fsm and Honda common service manual for a 2013 CB500X? I don’t need mine anymore, and will send it to someone if they’ll cover shipping from Ontario. Snapshot fucked around with this message at 12:58 on Mar 28, 2022 |
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Mar 28, 2022 12:53
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I also printed the service manual, at least for my SV. I tried using my laptop, but putting and balancing a laptop in a pile of parts and tools is just really annoying. I don't care about putting some stuff on top of the binder with the manual, but my laptop is much more delicate. Whatever you do, make a local copy of any manual you use. They randomly disappear from ancient forums when some old server in a musty forgotten corner of a data centre is finally shut down when someone notices 'Hey, that one over there, what's running on that? - Oh, idk, it's been there since before i worked here, i just left it running'. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Mar 28, 2022 |
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Mar 28, 2022 13:36
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After loafing last week I put in a little time trying to wirewheel one of those rusty coolant pipes off my Rex. The wheel doesn't want to touch the powdercoat? hardly at all so I gotta sand through it to get to the rust, which is also taking some work. Now I'm considering grabbing some paint stripper.
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Mar 28, 2022 17:10
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Snapshot posted:I’m going through the dealer to get a copy. I was unable to get a FSM for my 2020, so I'm stuck with a Haynes
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Mar 28, 2022 20:43
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SEKCobra posted:I was unable to get a FSM for my 2020, so I'm stuck with a Haynes 2020 cb500x? That’s the new generation, right? Helm didn’t have them?
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Mar 29, 2022 01:40
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Snapshot posted:2020 cb500x? That’s the new generation, right? Helm didn’t have them? Actually there's an even newer Gen now, but it was the one after yours yeah. I don't know about Helm but I was unable to source one shipped to my country at less than a few hundred bucks. E: Just checked again, over 300 bucks in shipping. SEKCobra fucked around with this message at 04:56 on Mar 29, 2022 |
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Mar 29, 2022 04:47
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What's orange, tall, equipped with a huge v-twin and hilariously unreliable? This is the very first one of these I have seen up close, and also the first one I've worked on. The problem? Idles like poo poo, runs really choppy. Three hours later: 
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Mar 29, 2022 05:21
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