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Don't know if its been mentioned in here, but unless you can always weld right beside the door, with it open, you may wish to get some sort of ventilation. Its been a while since I've done wire feed welding using gas so I don't remember how smoky it is. Flux core is smoky as gently caress, and stick can be quite smoky as well. Something like this would probably be good for blowing a bunch of air (smoke) out of your work space. https://www.harborfreight.com/24-inch-high-velocity-shop-fan-93532.html Also probably good for grinder dust etc..
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Mar 23, 2022 17:14
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The shop has an exhaust fan in the roof and I wear a P100 respirator. GMAW is pretty clean. e: I ordered some unbelievably cheap $9 casters from ebay. It's a large 5" caster, bigger than a shopping cart wheel. I rate them as pretty decent casters, i.e. extremely good for $9. I haven't mounted them to anything yet, but they have real bearings and good wheel locks (that lock both the wheel and swivel with little/no play). ryanrs fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Mar 23, 2022 |
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Mar 23, 2022 18:28
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ryanrs posted:The shop has an exhaust fan in the roof and I wear a P100 respirator. Thats good, especially if you're hardfacing. Hardfacing has some bad poo poo in it. Repeated exposure can have harmful effects. Check the MSDS if you get some hardfacing sticks or wire and see what they say about cartridges for your respirator.
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Mar 23, 2022 20:25
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No context, no real reason. "When the barbachildren arrive home they decide to setup their own smihty. Barbastrong is going to hammer a glowing hot horse shoe on his brothers back, but Barbamamma thinks it's better to use a real anvil"
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Mar 24, 2022 10:39
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Serious question: what is going on here? Is this how you're supposed to do vertical mig welds? Or does this youtube person with thousands of subscribers and a bunch of welding videos...not know how to weld? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW37PHs5O0Q&t=225s
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Mar 25, 2022 02:42
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That guy does not know how to weld. I like this guy for YouTube https://youtu.be/sW65cxiGJTY
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Mar 25, 2022 02:47
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honda whisperer posted:That guy does not know how to weld. Ha ha, that's amazing.
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Mar 25, 2022 02:49
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lol. it's like he saw a picture of a TIG weld and made his best guess at how to get that look using a MIG welder.
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Mar 25, 2022 04:44
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Gas Cylinder Stand and/or Double-Barreled Umbrella Holder   Steel ring 8" OD, made of 1 x 0.25 hot rolled steel. Gusset plates laser cut 0.119" cold rolled steel. Post is 1.5 x 0.120 square tube. Base plate is 12 x 12 x 3/16 Wall arm is 2.5 x 3/16, screws into a stud (no drywall present) I wanted a sleek design without a lot of bracing and diagonals. But it also needs to be strong enough to survive bumps when dropping in a cylinder. I think this design will be strong enough as shown, but it can be strengthened further by welding side plates to tie the exposed gusset edges together. The gusset plates were cheap to have made, less than $4/ea, albeit with a $29 minimum order. Note that I'm using this design with small 80cf cylinders, which aren't very heavy. e: weight is 25 lbs ryanrs fucked around with this message at 08:13 on Mar 25, 2022 |
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Mar 25, 2022 08:03
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Sagebrush posted:lol. it's like he saw a picture of a TIG weld and made his best guess at how to get that look using a MIG welder. It's a technique for cosmetics. There's no strength in those welds, but hey, it looks good, right? Subscriber count != Ability. See also: many car YouTube channels
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Mar 25, 2022 14:21
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Did a couple test welds today! 1.5 x 0.120 sq tube to huge 1/2" plate     Bent it all the way down, bent it back up, and it broke when I tried to bend it down again. Base metal fracture in the HAZ at the edge of the bead. 1 x 1/8" angle to 1.5 x 0.120 sq tube     This was much more difficult to bend. I used a cheater bar + stomping to bend the angle over. Then I used a sledgehammer to straighten it back up and bend it over the other way, which is when it fractured. It took a half-dozen blows with a 10 pound sledge to break the metal. As in the first weld, the fracture was in the base metal at the edge of the weld bead. Based on these results, I believe these two welds were sound. But my intro to welding class didn't cover weld testing at all, so if I'm wrong about this, please explain. (I'm extrapolating from what I know about adhesive testing.) e: re. Destructive Testing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHcjRj2A_w8&t=132s ryanrs fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Mar 26, 2022 |
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Mar 26, 2022 05:05
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honda whisperer posted:A CO2 fire extinguisher Ahahaha, the 10 lb CO2 fire extinguisher arrived and it is goddamn huge. It's a great big bastard that could double as a battering ram.
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Mar 27, 2022 17:34
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You can also shoot it to distract the guards.
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Mar 28, 2022 00:32
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So how do I use acetone in the welding shop? I guess I need a metal trash can with a lid?
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Mar 28, 2022 23:24
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ryanrs posted:So how do I use acetone in the welding shop? I guess I need a metal trash can with a lid? Unless you're soaking stuff in it, it's going to flash off pretty quickly. It's not like linseed oil or even gasoline. An oily rag can is a good idea regardless.
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Mar 28, 2022 23:41
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I hate that this shop space has wooden floors. (but I like the 24 hour access, 240V power, and $0 rent)
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Mar 28, 2022 23:44
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ryanrs posted:I hate that this shop space has wooden floors. That's amazing. I pay almost $3k a month.
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Mar 29, 2022 00:05
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It's not gonna last, heh. I'm just squatting here until a paying tenant shows up. e: bought a $100 UL listed oily waste trash can. Considering the deal I'm getting on rent, not burning down the place is really the least I can do. And it's good if the landlord thinks I'm a huge fire safety pedant. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Mar 30, 2022 |
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Mar 29, 2022 00:08
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Welding table finished!  
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Apr 3, 2022 02:01
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Very nice. I like the ground tab.
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Apr 3, 2022 02:23
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honda whisperer posted:Very nice. I like the ground tab. I have a bunch of extras because of the minimum order. PM me your address if you want a couple. They are 2x3x0.135" cold rolled mild steel. e: offer is for anyone in the thread. I will prob ask you to paypal postage, though. 
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 03:31 on Apr 3, 2022 |
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Apr 3, 2022 03:07
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A while back, I had a jam and chooched the plastic drive gears in my chinese mini lathe from Grizzly. I replaced the gears with metal involute tooth gears and replaced the ball bearings with tapered roller bearings while I was at it. It is now much noisier than it was before. I disengaged the drive gears and spun the chuck with a drill and it ran quiet, so that tells me the bearings aren't making the noise which narrows it down to the gears. Is that just what is to be expected with metal gears, or does it sound like there is a problem with the tooth engagement or maybe I need some different grease?
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Apr 4, 2022 23:01
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I've heard that "tube" metals, round, square, rectangular etc resists bending better than solid bar of the same size/diameter etc... Is that true? I guess at least a little bit would have to depend on the wall thickness, but if thats true, how the poo poo does it work? One thing that *seems* to make sense is that while the tube might resist bending better, it might fail more spectacularly than the same sized solid bar, once it reaches the ummmmm breaking point. Also true? False? Please science me in a way that a stupid person can understand.
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Apr 5, 2022 01:45
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Fracture mechanics could be one reason, the extra material isn't actually making the member stronger, In proportion with the additional mass, it's increasing its crack propagation life and stiffness. Once you reach a certain crack size, the stiffness just helps peel the crack open wider, and the material just splits. In a hoop, that crack then has to propagate around the diameter to fracture, instead of just going through the wall. It can buy you more life, depending on your stress state. In summary, it does help, but metal is so strong and so heavy that you reach diminishing returns quickly abs removing material to save weight makes sense. Samuel L. Hacksaw fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Apr 5, 2022 |
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Apr 5, 2022 01:50
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wesleywillis posted:I've heard that "tube" metals, round, square, rectangular etc resists bending better than solid bar of the same size/diameter etc... I think the common misconception here is in the ambiguity in how the statement is made. Tube like structures are better on a per mass or per volume of material basis. So a pipe that weights a pound a foot will be more difficult to bend that a solid bar that weighs one pound per foot. Taking a bar and drilling it out will only make it weaker. The basic idea here is that material farther away from the centerline contributes more to the stiffness because there is less of a lever arm when you try to bend or shear it. Also, once the material gets very thin (relative to the diameter), there are additional issues like buckling and collapse,.
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Apr 5, 2022 01:57
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DC to Daylight posted:Tube like structures are better on a per mass or per volume of material basis. The rest is good too but this nails it.
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Apr 5, 2022 03:12
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SkunkDuster posted:A while back, I had a jam and chooched the plastic drive gears in my chinese mini lathe from Grizzly. I replaced the gears with metal involute tooth gears and replaced the ball bearings with tapered roller bearings while I was at it. It is now much noisier than it was before. I disengaged the drive gears and spun the chuck with a drill and it ran quiet, so that tells me the bearings aren't making the noise which narrows it down to the gears. Metal gears are always going to be noisier than plastic ones, for the same reason that bells and wind chimes and tuning forks are made of metal instead of plastic. Heavy grease will quiet them down a bit. The engagement might be part of it but it's doubtful. If they're the same gear design, they're going to mesh the same way. Helical cut gears are much quieter than straight-cut ones, if that's an option for replacement, but you already replaced them once so I doubt you want to do it again. Replacing straight-cut gears with helical-cut ones also brings up issues of axial thrust. Something to consider: many lathes, and other machine tools, include a plastic gear or two specifically as an engineered-in weak point. In the event of a jam, the plastic gears strip out, but they're easy to replace -- and because they go first, they prevent damage from cascading to something more expensive. Now that you have strong gears in that location, the next time you jam the machine up, those forces are going to go somewhere else. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:48 on Apr 5, 2022 |
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Apr 5, 2022 05:46
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Sagebrush posted:Metal gears are always going to be noisier than plastic ones, for the same reason that bells and wind chimes and tuning forks are made of metal instead of plastic. They will go towards the lathe's hunger for human flesh.
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Apr 5, 2022 11:16
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Sagebrush posted:Heavy grease will quiet them down a bit. The engagement might be part of it but it's doubtful. If they're the same gear design, they're going to mesh the same way. I was kind of thinking if the spacing between the gears had increased, the teeth wouldn't be in constant engagement. I guess I can check that when I repack the grease. I get that metal gears are louder than plastic, but I'm wondering if it should be this much louder. I've ran it for several hours with no problems, but I'm half expecting to open up that gearbox and find a bunch of shiny glitter. Sagebrush posted:Something to consider: many lathes, and other machine tools, include a plastic gear or two specifically as an engineered-in weak point. In the event of a jam, the plastic gears strip out, but they're easy to replace -- and because they go first, they prevent damage from cascading to something more expensive. Now that you have strong gears in that location, the next time you jam the machine up, those forces are going to go somewhere else. I was very new and pushing it way harder than I should have been. I know better now. That doesn't eliminate the possibility of having another jam, but I'm feeling more confident now. I also saw a mod where you install an adjustable stop to prevent the tool holder from crashing into the chuck. That's great for hand-feeding, but I wonder what would happen if the half nuts are engaged.
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Apr 6, 2022 15:15
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You could post a video of it and people could tell you if it sounds too noisy. Straight cut gears just make noise, though. It's the nature of the beast. The big old South Bend lathe that I use has an extremely noisy gearbox, to the point where I put its drive idler in neutral whenever possible to shut it up, but it has apparently worked fine for nearly 80 years now so
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Apr 6, 2022 16:53
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Sagebrush posted:You could post a video of it and people could tell you if it sounds too noisy. Straight cut gears just make noise, though. It's the nature of the beast. Mine too. 9" South Bend, built in 1934.
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Apr 6, 2022 17:08
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Have you driven a manual-gearbox car? Ever put it in reverse? That much, much louder sound in reverse is because the reverse gear is straight cut, while all the forward gears are helical. You know the sound. Even if you've never driven one, you've undoubtedly heard it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CcOR1gcU1s Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Apr 6, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 17:22
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Leperflesh posted:Have you driven a manual-gearbox car? Ever put it in reverse? That much, much louder sound in reverse is because the reverse gear is straight cut, while all the forward gears are helical. I have one and have owned several in the past. I guess I never put too much thought into why reverse sounded different, but that was an interesting video to watch. I may be able to get a video recorded and posted. It's kind of hard to judge sound from a video, so I was thinking of doing a comparison between the drill press, lathe, and mill so you'd have some reference points.
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Apr 6, 2022 17:53
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Periodically someone will post in the motorcycle forum that they're worried about a loud whining mechanical noise from their engine, and it's basically always just the primary drive gears meshing and they never noticed it before. (Or they're a bit low on oil).
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Apr 6, 2022 18:25
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DC to Daylight posted:I think the common misconception here is in the ambiguity in how the statement is made. Tube like structures are better on a per mass or per volume of material basis. So a pipe that weights a pound a foot will be more difficult to bend that a solid bar that weighs one pound per foot. Taking a bar and drilling it out will only make it weaker. Thanks, I guess that is what I was trying to get at, "buckling" when I said bending but that was the best I could come up with when I said that I figured that the solid bar would fare better than the tube, even if the tube might take more time to get to the point of failure. Assuming the same materials, a pipe that weighs 1 pound per foot would be a much bigger diameter than a rod of the same weight/foot. Is that how they figure things out like a lattice crane boom? 50 linear feet of boom can either use bigger diameter, hollow bar that is lighter per linear foot, or a smaller diameter solid bar that weighs a poo poo load more? Or is it the opposite, they can use a smaller diameter, and lighter/linear foot hollow bar or would have to use a bigger diameter heavier/linear foot solid bar? I'm confused, but I think I confused myself. Samuel L. Hacksaw posted:Fracture mechanics could be one reason, the extra material isn't actually making the member stronger, The extra stiffness of the solid bar helps make it go faster? So, in that last sentence, having a thinner, (but adequate for the application) wall thickness is "good enough" while going, for example, to a wall thickness thats twice as much while maybe "more stronger" isn't necessarily double, or triple or whatever the strength of the original product? While also making the product unnecessarily heavy? Sorry if the questions are dumb, but I'm also dumb. 
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Apr 7, 2022 02:14
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The big gains are when you trade off thinner wall thickness for larger diameter (so total amount of metal is constant). Thinner walls make your tube less strong and less stiff, but the larger diameter increases stiffness by A LOT, so overall the thin wall, large diameter tube is stiffest. For torsional stiffness, I think stiffness is proportional to radius^4. This means a 20% increase in tube diameter gives double the stiffness. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Apr 7, 2022 |
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Apr 7, 2022 04:11
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I was talking more about fracture mechanics and cracking as a failure mode but buckling is a separate phenomenon. if you're concerned with buckling then the term you want to look for is inertia in the equation and compare the inertia of a tube and the inertia of a cylinder. A cylinder of equal mass to a tube will have to be some combination of shorter and thinner (aspect ratio is critical to buckling and tied up in calculating inertia plus the length term in buckling equations. Shorter isn't an option in most buckling checks, so with diameter dominating the inertia equation, the tube comes out on top.
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Apr 7, 2022 11:25
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What's the proper MIG welding technique to use when your fit up is lovely and there's a 1/8" gap? (I'm learning fabrication via trial and error.)
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Apr 11, 2022 03:40
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Someone linked me this vid awhile back https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xCZz1l0Ip1Y
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Apr 11, 2022 03:52
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thanks!
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Apr 11, 2022 04:15
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