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MrOnBicycle posted:Yeah pretty much. I have no idea what's best in this case, but it's what the YouTube guides told me was preferable for thin metal as keeping as much metals as possible means there is less likelihood of burning through. But yeah could be all wrong as well as it's YouTube after all. At this point I doubt it matters as one unlucky strike could make a big hole. I guess I should be looking for a MIG welder with variable wire speed as well as power, and not just 4 different settings or something like that. I guess going used is more bang for my buck as well? To make it real pretty and smooth you should pick up a flap wheel for your grinder. Softer and takes metal off slower.
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Mar 27, 2022 21:58
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In the state of Texas, will I fail my inspection if my ABS light is on?
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Mar 27, 2022 22:26
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nwin posted:Hey it’s me again with the possible parasitic drain on my Lexus. Last we saw it was still showing .57 amps using the ammeter. Man, I don't know a tenth as much as most people on this forum, but I've been managing a parasitic drain on my girlfriends car for months now. If your battery sits at 12.3v for long, you're going to kill it. Anything under 12.6v for very long will make it die. Her alternator still works, and if she disconnects the battery any time it will sit for several hours without running, it will live forever with no problems. She has about a half an amp drain that really only becomes a problem if it is left for more than about 12 hours without running (for example, during the weekend). I followed the instructions on this dude's youtube video ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdIKNnwEjIs) to diagnose my drain. I was able to pretty quickly narrow the drain down to two in-car fuses (with the initial drain being 1.5 amps). One fuse was the speaker amp, the second covered a range of systems. I ended up disconnecting the entire speaker system, but that didn't resolve the problem. So the remaining half amp is somewhere in a security or lighting system that I lack the expertise to identify. I got her a NOCO Genius 10 to maintain and repair the battery, as well as a Hulkman Alpha 85 to keep in her trunk just in case. The NOCO's claim to be able to repair a hosed battery seems legit. Hers wasn't holding a charge at all, a repair cycle with that thing connected seems to have restored it to normal function. I test the battery voltage regularly with my multimeter, but as long as it is regularly disconnected when not in use, its fine. If it has to sit for a while, I hook it up to the battery charger. And if it dies, I know the jump battery will get her home.
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Mar 27, 2022 23:56
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That stuff makes me paranoid, should I be bringing a multimeter to look for parasitic drain the next time I buy a used car? seems like there is zero way of knowing you’re buying an electrical lemon in that respect without literally measuring it before purchase, and a big liability if you choose not to. I don’t own a multimeter yet but $50-100 is a small price for avoiding a multi thousand dollar electrical nightmare.
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Mar 28, 2022 00:58
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tldr; can I "undo" a total loss determination? (Washington State)
Throughout the entire process, my insurance never mentioned that the car would no longer be able to legally drive on public roads.
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Mar 28, 2022 01:33
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THE CAR STILL RUNS SAFELY
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Inner Light posted:That stuff makes me paranoid, should I be bringing a multimeter to look for parasitic drain the next time I buy a used car? seems like there is zero way of knowing you’re buying an electrical lemon in that respect without literally measuring it before purchase, and a big liability if you choose not to. Everyone should have a multimeter, even a $15-20 one will measure current and voltage as well as check continuity. Those are all super helpful functions for lots of things. However, you may have trouble being able weed out weird electrical problems with a used car quickly enough with a multimeter to make an informed decision because they're often not that obvious. As mentioned, most modern cars continue to draw current for a while (and it can be different amounts of time) after being turned off before the electronics go to sleep, at which point they'll still use a little bit. Even opening the door can wake things back up. For example, my car primes the fuel pump when the driver's door is opened. Will a seller let you sit with a multimeter hooked up under the hood for half an hour or something? Maybe, but also maybe not. It also might not help find anything. A lot of the times people worry about electrical gremlins ends up being that they want there to be a problem that explains their battery not holding up even though it's been 3-8 years since they last replaced it. They tend to go through an extended period of trying anything other than a new battery before finally having to get one. It's understandable because batteries are usually over $100, but often it's just time for a new one. Alternators can also go bad and not charge the battery properly while the car is running and that's one you can often check with a multimeter while the car is running although it's not foolproof. When my alternator last died I was lucky that the bearing started making noise before I started getting voltage warnings on the dash so I was able to determine the issue pretty quickly. Parasitic draw situations tend to be less common than a battery and/or alternator just wearing out, and a lot of the ones I see on YouTube are due to wires getting their insulation rubbed off, chewed by rodents, or melted and are touching together, relays going bad, electronics going bad (like capacitor problems in an control module), or other corrosion related problems. It's not always that easy to find just due to wiring being all over the place.
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Mar 28, 2022 01:33
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Ornery and Hornery posted:tldr; can I "undo" a total loss determination? (Washington State) You will need a rebuilt/salvage title, which is available through the Department of Licensing: https://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistration/salvaged.html
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Mar 28, 2022 01:37
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Trickortreat posted:In the state of Texas, will I fail my inspection if my ABS light is on? No, but you will if your brake light is on and your parking brake isn't set. I know this because I need to fix my van's ABS module before inspection.
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Mar 28, 2022 04:01
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Deteriorata posted:You will need a rebuilt/salvage title, which is available through the Department of Licensing: https://www.dol.wa.gov/vehicleregistration/salvaged.html “WA DOL” posted:(about rebuilds…) It had a retail value of $7,930 or more before being destroyed, damaged, wrecked, or declared a total loss. 
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Mar 28, 2022 04:10
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Ornery and Hornery posted:My car definitely did not have that valuation think you got negative focus going bro, i read this as your new title not getting branded rebuilt  hosed up if they just won't let you register something that can pass inspection/you can prove you own
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Mar 28, 2022 06:33
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I assume it's a "fender bender" that warped the frame in some fashion, I saw an example in a tiktok recently
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Mar 28, 2022 07:08
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Option 1 – Keeping the vehicle Take the vehicle registration, Notice of Cancellation letter, and applicable fees to a vehicle licensing office to apply for a title. From what you're saying the new title won't even get the rebuilt stamp, but anyways all you have to do is go get a new title.
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Mar 28, 2022 07:20
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GreenBuckanneer posted:I assume it's a "fender bender" that warped the frame in some fashion, I saw an example in a tiktok recently Even in today's inflated used car market, purely cosmetic damage can be enough to total out a low-ish value 15-year-old car. Body panels, paint, and labor to do it all correctly is expensive. Agreed that you probably need to talk directly to the DMV, it seems unreasonable that they would have no way to put a vehicle back on the road. Could always wash the title through another state if needed.
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Mar 28, 2022 07:59
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There's nothing that says they can't get a new title, just have to do the steps I wrote above.
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Mar 28, 2022 08:18
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Trickortreat posted:In the state of Texas, will I fail my inspection if my ABS light is on? Don't drive a car without ABS unless you absolutely have to, ABS is one of those miracle technologies you really want to have
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Mar 28, 2022 09:37
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Thanks thread, I will contact the DoL and see if I can get a new title. I love my old car I’ve had it forever and it still runs fine. Certainly looks a bit beat up but so do I after all these years. Thank you AI goons 
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Mar 28, 2022 16:22
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Ornery and Hornery posted:Thanks thread, I will contact the DoL and see if I can get a new title. I love my old car I’ve had it forever and it still runs fine. If you're in the Seattle area I've found this place is pretty helpful and friendly.
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Mar 28, 2022 17:10
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My 2006 Honda Accord (V6, automatic) suddenly won't start this morning. The starter is going when I turn the key, it just doesn't....take. It is behaving how I would expect if it was out of gas. No consistent issues before this, although I do think it took an extra second a few times this winter. Last time I "drove" it was pulling it into the garage on Saturday. Where do I start on troubleshooting?
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Mar 28, 2022 18:05
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Blowjob Overtime posted:My 2006 Honda Accord (V6, automatic) suddenly won't start this morning. The starter is going when I turn the key, it just doesn't....take. It is behaving how I would expect if it was out of gas. Check for spark. If that's good, check the fuel pump.
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Mar 28, 2022 18:09
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Blowjob Overtime posted:My 2006 Honda Accord (V6, automatic) suddenly won't start this morning. The starter is going when I turn the key, it just doesn't....take. It is behaving how I would expect if it was out of gas. On my ‘00 Accord V6, the issue was the fuel pump solenoid, which is a little box located alongside the steering column behind the lower kick-panel. It’s secured under there with a bolt. I’d try that first IF it’s similar…I’m aware that it’s a generation or so beyond, but the engine & operating components may be similar
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Mar 28, 2022 18:13
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Turn the key to ON. Listen for a brief gentle hum. This would be the fuel pump building pressure in the system. If you turn the key to on and hear nothing, start looking at fuel supply issues. Try to start the car, then pull out a spark plug and sniff it. If it reeks of gas, you probably don't have a fuel problem. While you're in the car listening for the fuel pump, keep an eye on the instrument cluster for anything the looks security-related. If you see a picture of a key or a lock while trying to start the car, you might have a factory security problem. While on that track, does the car have a non-factory alarm or remote start? Those are also possible culprits. Check to see if you have spark. You probably need a helper for this one. Pull out a spark plug. Re-connect the plug wire to the plug and touch the spark plug to an unpainted metal part that is grounded. Examples: the cylinder head, alternator bracket. Have someone try to start the car while you watch for any sparks from the plug. If you have spark, it probably isn't an ignition problem.
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Mar 28, 2022 19:10
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My 1990 Honda accord is making a louder sound than it used to while accelerating, and I feel like I'm losing power going uphill. It sounds pretty normal while idling but it's hard to remember what it sounded like before because I'm only in town to drive it for two weeks every month. I'm pretty sure this started when i got back from work five days ago. I don't know a ton about cars, I can replace brake pads and do easy stuff but I don't have access to a garage or anything. If it's an engine problem then I assume it would be more to fix it than the car's worth, but if it's a fuel filter thing then that's not too expensive, right?
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Mar 28, 2022 20:41
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Mafic Rhyolite posted:My 1990 Honda accord is making a louder sound than it used to while accelerating, and I feel like I'm losing power going uphill. It sounds pretty normal while idling but it's hard to remember what it sounded like before because I'm only in town to drive it for two weeks every month. I'm pretty sure this started when i got back from work five days ago. A 1990 Accord is worth keeping on the road forever. They're one of the best cars of all time (my opinion of course). Somebody better at diagnosing will reply, I just wanted to share my opinion :)
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Mar 28, 2022 22:09
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Mafic Rhyolite posted:My 1990 Honda accord is making a louder sound than it used to while accelerating, and I feel like I'm losing power going uphill. It sounds pretty normal while idling but it's hard to remember what it sounded like before because I'm only in town to drive it for two weeks every month. I'm pretty sure this started when i got back from work five days ago. First of all, yes, those are cool cars. Second, can you describe the sound or maybe even provide a video? Without much context, I would throw out seeing what your exhaust looks like. The car's plenty old, and if your second or third (or fourth) exhaust has rusted through it will be louder and could feel a bit more sluggish too. I wouldn't advise tackling that job on your own, but it should be easy enough to diagnose. Basically, look for a rusted and rotten patches on your exhaust pipe. A muffler repair place should be able to sort that out. Failing that, it's anyone's guess without more information. Really though if the thing is still running, there's a decent chance it can get fixed without costing that much. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Mar 28, 2022 |
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Mar 28, 2022 22:22
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Fuel filter wouldn't make a car louder. I'm guessing the engine mounts are old, you're getting a ton of engine movement, it's causing the exhaust to fail at the flexpipe or similar. Take it to an exhaust shop and they'll be able to tell you if it's the exhaust, and probably fix it for ~$100-200. You'll want to do the engine mounts shortly thereafter if that was the problem. Guessing it's not actually any slower but it just seems slower or something.
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Mar 28, 2022 22:26
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The exhaust is pretty new, I got it replaced when I got the car 8 months ago, I'll try to get a recording of the sound when I get a chance. It might just be in my head but i feel like I was able to drive up a hill near where i live at 60 kmph before but I can't get past 50 right now. Hard to say for sure though.
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Mar 28, 2022 22:52
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Any check engine light on? If you have a leak somewhere in the intake and you're getting unmetered air, you'd possibly hear it and it would affect things. How's the idle?
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Mar 28, 2022 22:59
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No check engine light but I don't necessarily trust the display and all the wiring in this thing entirely. The idle sounds pretty normal but it might be slightly louder than usual, I can't say for sure really. I'm just about to go get a recording of it.
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Mar 28, 2022 23:06
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Mafic Rhyolite posted:I don't know a ton about cars, I can replace brake pads and do easy stuff but I don't have access to a garage or anything. If it's an engine problem then I assume it would be more to fix it than the car's worth, but if it's a fuel filter thing then that's not too expensive, right? A 1990 Honda Accord is cool enough at this point that even if it’s totally hosed, somebody will buy it from you. Especially a manual one. Fixing it and keeping it driveable is no longer financially unfeasible against the car’s possible resale value, assuming your repairs don’t go higher than like the very low four figures. And if the car’s clean and in good cosmetic shape probably a lot higher.
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Mar 28, 2022 23:33
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It's an automatic and the paint job is a mess, and the weatherproofing isn't great. Water gets in when it rains so it's foggy inside for 6 months of the year, the interior plastic around the controls is a bit broken up from when we had to replace the display, the seats are old and haven't been replaced in probably 30 years, so they don't look very good. I like the car a lot but it's had some pretty rough years long before I bought it and it's not in the best of shape. It's still pretty clean at least https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmbZCLclrco  I start driving up the hill around 2:50 or so but the wind is a bit loud and it's hard to hear the noise perfectly. I did manage to get up to 60 going up the hill this time though, maybe the lack of power was in my head after all. I feel like the idle is definitely slightly louder than it used to be, but it doesn't sound as loud on the video as it does in real life really? I wish i didn't go 15 days without driving it every month, it'd be easier to keep track of how it's doing.
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Mar 28, 2022 23:48
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It's always hard to tell from videos but that to me sounds like it absolutely could be an exhaust leak.
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Mar 28, 2022 23:51
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Mafic Rhyolite posted:It's an automatic and the paint job is a mess, and the weatherproofing isn't great. Water gets in when it rains so it's foggy inside for 6 months of the year, the interior plastic around the controls is a bit broken up from when we had to replace the display, the seats are old and haven't been replaced in probably 30 years, so they don't look very good. fixing and replacing the weatherproofing is relatively cheap, whether you want to diy it or pay a pro, and it will go a massive way toward halting any further deterioration or moisture issues other than that, a real interior detailing could do wonders for making it feel and look a lot better without sinking money into actual repair or replacement. Interior plastic trim damage that isn’t insane is relatively easy to fix and cover up in 90s cars. Like cracks and poo poo are easily sealed and covered up, there’s tons of YouTube tutorials and kits and poo poo Doing the seats is also probably pretty easy, probably much easier than you think if they aren’t torn. If they’re fabric they probably just need a good detail clean or wash, and probably a refoaming. Refoaming without replacing the upholstery/with simply laundering it is also a lot cheaper and easier to have done (my choice) or diy than ppl think. If you get that stuff done-especially the weather sealing-it doesn’t really matter if the paint is shot. The car will at least stay in good nick. Painting, should you desire it, could be as basic as a Maaco job (or even a driveway job using a sprayer or, yes, even cans if it’s that bad, you can only go up) to something nice and pricey. There’s also wrapping if you want the car to look brand new for <$1k, <<$1k if you go with a boring color
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Mar 29, 2022 00:04
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Yeah, that does sound like an exhaust leak to me. I’d say you can probably get it patched up on the cheap. Depends on where the leak is though. If you can lift it, you might get a better idea, but I’d start looking for a local exhaust shop. The other stuff sounds pretty much par the course, but definitely annoying. Totally up to you what to do there, but I’d probably really only worry about the water leaks. But like Comboomer said a good detailing can do wonders for your outlook on any car.
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Mar 29, 2022 00:43
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I keep refilling the overflow tank on my truck and it keeps emptying. Where does it go? I see a little corrosion on the cap and I don't see any obvious leaks. Thoughts? Head gasket? 1997 Ford F250 HD with the 460.
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Mar 29, 2022 01:13
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Alright thanks for the advice! I'll take it into an exhaust shop and have them take a look. I don't mind the other stuff all that much, but I might try and get the weatherproofing fixed up before next winter comes and it starts raining again.
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Mar 29, 2022 01:21
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Mafic Rhyolite posted:Alright thanks for the advice! I'll take it into an exhaust shop and have them take a look. You said the exhaust was replaced less than a year ago. Did that include the catalytic converter? kid sinister posted:I keep refilling the overflow tank on my truck and it keeps emptying. Where does it go? I see a little corrosion on the cap and I don't see any obvious leaks. Thoughts? Head gasket? Hopefully, into the engine cooling. First thing to be sure of is that the cooling system is topped off.
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Mar 29, 2022 02:18
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PainterofCrap posted:You said the exhaust was replaced less than a year ago. Did that include the catalytic converter? I think it might have just been the muffler and tailpipe, I wasn't there when it got fixed but thats the only part I paid for if I remember right.
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Mar 29, 2022 03:17
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Because it may be losing power because the cat's blocked up. The backpressure isn't great for all of the upstream connections either. Drive it at 60+MPH for ten minutes at night, then immediately park it & look at your catalytic converter. It may be cherry--red.
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Mar 29, 2022 03:31
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I was thinking the same thing as PainterofCrap. It may be that you have a clogged cat causing poor performance from exhaust restriction, and then enough backpressure that you blew out something marginal upstream of the cat. One of my brothers had a Civic do that once - it would idle fine but fall on its face and start overheating with any real throttle. Blew out the donut gasket at the exhaust manifold too.
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Mar 29, 2022 04:19
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Ok Comboomer posted:There’s also wrapping if you want the car to look brand new for <$1k, <<$1k if you go with a boring color How many cars have you had wrapped?
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Mar 29, 2022 05:46
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