Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

Voltage posted:

Thinking about renting one of these to give my extremely stained ridgeline seats a second shot at life before I just get seat covers - is this worth it or does anyone have other tips? https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/Karcher-Carpet-Spot-and-Stair-Cleaner-9-840-068-0/309005721

I've tried using "Tuff Stuff" along with a small steam machine blaster + shop vac and it did absolutely nothing.

The first thing I'll use on fabric for any of the 25+ year old vehicles I get is this stuff



I'll wear rubber gloves, moose this stuff on, rub it in with my hands then usually dethatch that green brush and use it directly on the whole bit of fabric, then blot the stain on a cloth or paper towel. If it needs more help, I'll steam it with that steamer above mentioned by Big Taint but always after I use this woolite stuff while it is still wet. I've tried a bunch of difference cleaners and techniques but this is the one that works the best. I've brought back some heinous fabric (including seats) using this process. You can usually find this Woolite at Lowes as well.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Voltage
Sep 4, 2004

MALT LIQUOR!

Thanks! I need to run to Lowes anyways this week and I'll snag a few bottles and try that and post the before/after shots.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Depending on the stain, the steam treatment may have helped to 'set' the stain.

Get one of those brushes that chucks up in a drill. Or one that chucks up in a sawzall.

Maybe start looking on car-part for salvage seats if the carpet cleaner doesn't work?

Quaint Quail Quilt
Jun 19, 2006


Ask me about that time I told people mixing bleach and vinegar is okay
Being fully into this car detailing madness now...
I stripped my wax with dish detergent/ a fuzz of simple green after a foamgun wash.
dried, iron removed no purple (new car)
Synthetic clay towel from theragcompany
and turtlewax hybrid solutions ceramic waxed, projectfarm and some of the youtube detailers liked.

The next day I hit my interior with vinyl rubber protecterant and leather cleaners, vacuumed and greased up all moving parts and hinges.
Got the underside cleaned a bit as well, I need a special wand attachment for that in the future or some metal ramps.
Good for winter!

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



KakerMix posted:

The first thing I'll use on fabric for any of the 25+ year old vehicles I get is this stuff



I'll wear rubber gloves, moose this stuff on, rub it in with my hands then usually dethatch that green brush and use it directly on the whole bit of fabric, then blot the stain on a cloth or paper towel. If it needs more help, I'll steam it with that steamer above mentioned by Big Taint but always after I use this woolite stuff while it is still wet. I've tried a bunch of difference cleaners and techniques but this is the one that works the best. I've brought back some heinous fabric (including seats) using this process. You can usually find this Woolite at Lowes as well.

I actually just came to the thread for a similar question. I picked up a salvage yard seat in surprisingly good condition but I figure I might as well clean it up before I put the seat in, and I had to lay it on its side anyway so the cart got dirt on the side of the seat.

How long generally does it take for the seat to dry after using it?

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

22 Eargesplitten posted:

I actually just came to the thread for a similar question. I picked up a salvage yard seat in surprisingly good condition but I figure I might as well clean it up before I put the seat in, and I had to lay it on its side anyway so the cart got dirt on the side of the seat.

How long generally does it take for the seat to dry after using it?

If I'm going this far with vehicle I'll have the seats out and will let them dry at least overnight. If it's warm sunny day (I'm in Florida) about 4~ hours in the sun gets them dry enough.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I'm thinking of physically taking the seats out of my hatchback when I clean the inside of it (probably on the weekend) so I can get at things more easily for the carpets, how good/bad of an idea is this?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Its a satisfactory idea. Just make sure to tighten the bolts holding the seats once you put them back in, then check again after a week or two of driving.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Maybe put some thread locker on the bolts while you're at it if you're paranoid.

Seats in modern cars can be very heavy. Make sure you have a lot of room around you when you pull the seats out.

If you have a hard time getting the bolt holes to all line up at re-install time, unlock the seat rails. This will let the rail on each side of the seat move independently.

You might also want to make sure you have the security code for your radio (if applicable) and disconnect the battery before you start. Newer cars often (always?) have airbags in the front seats and the best way to keep them from discharging is to disconnect the battery before you start. Also make sure you don't turn the key to ACC or ON while the seats are out because you will probably set off the SRS light.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

PBCrunch posted:

Maybe put some thread locker on the bolts while you're at it if you're paranoid.

Seats in modern cars can be very heavy. Make sure you have a lot of room around you when you pull the seats out.

If you have a hard time getting the bolt holes to all line up at re-install time, unlock the seat rails. This will let the rail on each side of the seat move independently.

You might also want to make sure you have the security code for your radio (if applicable) and disconnect the battery before you start. Newer cars often (always?) have airbags in the front seats and the best way to keep them from discharging is to disconnect the battery before you start. Also make sure you don't turn the key to ACC or ON while the seats are out because you will probably set off the SRS light.

This is a 2010 so it's not that new, but I didn't even consider the airbag, drat. Thanks for that one.

The seats are manual, not power seats (just power windows)

On a side note, some of the leather? pleather? not sure what you call it, on the driver/passenger doors has started to slide out off the armrests, so eventually I'll want to figure out a way to tuck that back in...

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



What wheel brush do ya'll like to use? I was last using some brush from I think walmart and the bristles were rough enough to put some micro scratches in my wheel's finish (factory painted black). I'm spraying the wheels with Sonax if that matters.

Relatedly, I'm ordering some Adam's VRT to try for the tires and wondering if it matters how I apply/brush/clean the tires?

smooth jazz
May 13, 2010

Wheel woolies are gentle and good.



Prior to VRT, scrub the tire with any all purpose cleaner or dedicated rubber cleaner until no more brown comes off.

I think I mentioned before that I've tried half a dozen tire dressings and found VRT lasts the longest.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Simple Green (diluted) is my all purpose cleaner generally speaking. Is that good for tires or would a different rubber cleaner be better?

smooth jazz
May 13, 2010

diluted simple green is fine on tires

Arson Daily
Aug 11, 2003

What's the trick to getting good foam out of a foam cannon? I'm always real hit or miss and can't seem to find a consistent solution (lol)

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
It could be your water. The water here is hard as hell and the performance of my foam gun has always disappointed.

PIZZA.BAT
Nov 12, 2016


:cheers:


I guess this thread would have been a better place to post this:

PIZZA.BAT posted:

I'm looking to have a ceramic coating applied to my '19 Mustang and am looking at having it done by a shop I know and trust. Here's the page where they detail the services & prices: https://www.citycollision.net/the-auto-spa-automotive-ceramic-coating-detailing-pittsburgh-squirrel-hill-oakland-pa/

My question is if the more expensive ceramic coatings are worth it or just a marketing upsell. You'll notice that no matter what you get, you still have to bring it in twice a year for maintenance. Would their more expensive formula really last for that much longer with regular maintenance than the cheaper one?

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



In my experience you're into the lands of diminishing returns. The higher end coatings are supposedly more chemical resistant and/or harder and depending on the coating may have a slightly different appearance (more $$ usually equals more gloss from being a thicker coat and a slicker surface). The jump from no coat to ceramic coated is huge, the jump from the budget to the mid is much less so.

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


It depends on a lot of factors and understand that with ceramic the hydrophobic qualities are the first to go but there will still be protection.

This is a lot of what the touch up is doing, restoring the hydrophobic properties with ceramic boosting sprays.

May I suggest Prestige Auto Armor in Valencia? They use Xpel Fusion that has a 4 year warranty and no $100 wash requirements to keep it. From a price perspective, I was able to get PPF on the full hood, front bumper, and partial fenders along with ceramic coating with full paint refinement for about $2500 which isn't much more than that titanium package for ceramic alone.

These guys were very meticulous and I've been there twice (had to have it redone when I got into front end collision last year.)

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
How does one fix a cigarette burn in auto carpet? Back when I smoked, I dropped an ash and it landed on the carpet.

I've "heard" that you cut a bunch of carpet fibres out from some more inconspicuous area(s) under the seats and such, and then orient them properly and use some transparent glue, or some glue that might be pretty close to the colour of the carpet (in this case black) but maybe I dreamed that and there is some sort of other techniques that are better.

The spot is probably dime sized or smaller.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
I’ve repaired real carpet in hotel rooms on spring break in the 90’s that way (cutting carpet fibers and gluing them in the hole)

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

wesleywillis posted:

How does one fix a cigarette burn in auto carpet? Back when I smoked, I dropped an ash and it landed on the carpet.

I've "heard" that you cut a bunch of carpet fibres out from some more inconspicuous area(s) under the seats and such, and then orient them properly and use some transparent glue, or some glue that might be pretty close to the colour of the carpet (in this case black) but maybe I dreamed that and there is some sort of other techniques that are better.

The spot is probably dime sized or smaller.

That's called the Musk repair.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
Or the Lebron fix.

johnnyonetime
Apr 2, 2010
Can anyone tell me how can I help the fender on my poor Delica? The hood is in great shape and the passenger side fender (cheek?) paint is in good shape, but the clear coat is peeling back.



Is this something I can do with a wet sanding and a 2k clear coat in an aerosol can? Or is there a better method, like putting hot rod flame decals down the edge to cover?

FlapYoJacks
Feb 12, 2009

johnnyonetime posted:

Can anyone tell me how can I help the fender on my poor Delica? The hood is in great shape and the passenger side fender (cheek?) paint is in good shape, but the clear coat is peeling back.



Is this something I can do with a wet sanding and a 2k clear coat in an aerosol can? Or is there a better method, like putting hot rod flame decals down the edge to cover?

Wet sanding/clear coat is your best bet as a temp solution. It won't look great, but it will prevent the undercoat from deteriorating further.

Thom ZombieForm
Oct 29, 2010

I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I had a ceramic coat applied by dealership to new vehicle (I have no prior ceramic experience), which is not an ideal situation, but it happened (I am still waiting to hear what exact product they used / where the warranty info is for it).

Should I keep cleaning with a two bucket method, soap then rinse then apply some wax product and basically expect an easier time with it? Are there other products I should use to "prolong" or "extend" this coating?

Example: I see this "16-oz Ceramic Boost Spray by Adam's Polishes" product which states "Helps enhance the appearance of your vehicle’s exterior and prolongs the life of the ceramic coating on the vehicle" <- is this legit?

There are approx. 1000 different chemicals I am now pondering purchasing but the best bang for buck should suffice for now

smooth jazz
May 13, 2010

yes continue with 2 bucket method.

yes you can apply a topper of your choice. it will act as a sacrifical layer of sorts. your paint will take on the properties of the topper.

Adam's is good.

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Any suggestions for cleaning leather? My wife's Ford Edge smells awful. I think the Lexol leather conditioner we used is decomposing or something. I went through the whole interior, took everything out of the car, cleaned everything, sprayed ozium, replaced the cabin air filter. It still smells terrible. I think it's the Lexol. I would like to be able to remove it entirely from the seats.

This is going to be my last go before getting a professional or trying an ozone generator.

Digital_Jesus
Feb 10, 2011

Ive always had good experiences with leather care with chamberlain stuff https://leathermilk.com/ but its a bit more expensive than lexol and the like when you start talking about doing a whole car interior instead of just bags and jackets.

I use the regular leather milk on my seats but they make a line specifically for auto. Never used that one in particular. The No1 smells like almond.

Im kinda surprised about the lexol though. Ive used it for a long time on other vehicles and never had it go rancid or anything and my bottle of lexol is pretty old. Could it be you just dont like the smell of lexol? Its kinda chemically.

As to cleaning the seats off before a new leather product, dilluted dish soap and warm water on a rag will break down the oils in the old leather product. Dont get the seats wet, just wipe them off with a damp lightly soapy cloth and dry them well and let air dry for a while before you put on new product.

everdave
Nov 14, 2005
None of my cars have leather (all JDM imports and they like cloth/wool)

I've never used it but The Chemical Guys posted a vid recently using their leather cleaner and it looked impressive. And I have tons of their stuff and it all smells nice. And I absolutely LOVE the Butter Wax I use it all the time to make black marks and scrapes disappear.

Thom ZombieForm
Oct 29, 2010

I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
Black car here with ceramic coat (cannot confirm quality of it as it was performed by dealership).

It’s had to sit outside for a week. I sprayed it down with water a few hours prior to the pic, so the water beaded and evaporated, leaving concentrated areas of dirt. This seems bad.

Anyways, I attempted using optimum no rinse next. 1 bucket, 1 ounce two gallons like label specifies. I soaked a microfiber and lightly applied it to an area in a circular motion (almost no pressure). Then I took a clean dry microfiber and lightly swirled similarly to dry.

Unfortunately, the concentrated areas seems to be sticking around. This picture is after repeating the above steps twice. Any pointers here?

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


You are likely going to need something stronger than no-rinse to break up the chemical bonds. Try something like Carpro Reset. It’s about as strong as you can get while still being PH neutral.

You could also try mixing up a stronger concentration of no-rinse in a spray bottle and soak the area and leave it sit for 10 minutes to see if it loosens the bonds.

bull3964 fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Apr 6, 2022

Thom ZombieForm
Oct 29, 2010

I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive

bull3964 posted:

You are likely going to need something stronger than no-rinse to break up the chemical bonds. Try something like Carpro Reset. It’s about as strong as you can get while still being PH neutral.

You could also try mixing up a stronger concentration of no-rinse in a spray bottle and soak the area and leave it sit for 10 minutes to see if it loosens the bonds.

Thanks I'll try this tomorrow and see how it goes... will find a shaded place to park the car till then

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

wesleywillis posted:

How does one fix a cigarette burn in auto carpet? Back when I smoked, I dropped an ash and it landed on the carpet.

I've "heard" that you cut a bunch of carpet fibres out from some more inconspicuous area(s) under the seats and such, and then orient them properly and use some transparent glue, or some glue that might be pretty close to the colour of the carpet (in this case black) but maybe I dreamed that and there is some sort of other techniques that are better.

The spot is probably dime sized or smaller.



StormDrain posted:

That's called the Musk repair.

PBCrunch posted:

Or the Lebron fix.

Thanks, so uhhhhhh is that a good way to fix that poo poo?

Thom ZombieForm
Oct 29, 2010

I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive

bull3964 posted:

You are likely going to need something stronger than no-rinse to break up the chemical bonds. Try something like Carpro Reset. It’s about as strong as you can get while still being PH neutral.

You could also try mixing up a stronger concentration of no-rinse in a spray bottle and soak the area and leave it sit for 10 minutes to see if it loosens the bonds.

CarPro Reset did help a bit, but there's still water spots. The water here is supppper hard it turns out. I have ordered CarPro Spotless as the next resort. I am endlessly worrying about the ceramic coat being etched by these insane water spots, they are pretty nuts

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Thom ZombieForm posted:

CarPro Reset did help a bit, but there's still water spots. The water here is supppper hard it turns out. I have ordered CarPro Spotless as the next resort. I am endlessly worrying about the ceramic coat being etched by these insane water spots, they are pretty nuts

Yeah, I didn't say anything because I'm not a detailing guy.....I'm here for information.......but I have hard water and those look like hard water spots.

I used to have hose bibs that were before the water softener (for watering, etc) and that's what I used for washing my car. That's what happened. I re-routed the hose bib I used for wash water to after the softener and all of these problems went away.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

wesleywillis posted:

Thanks, so uhhhhhh is that a good way to fix that poo poo?

I had to go back because I totally forgot that joke and it was like I was telling it to myself and I laughed harder at the LeBron one.

Thom ZombieForm
Oct 29, 2010

I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive
I will eat you alive

Motronic posted:

Yeah, I didn't say anything because I'm not a detailing guy.....I'm here for information.......but I have hard water and those look like hard water spots.

I used to have hose bibs that were before the water softener (for watering, etc) and that's what I used for washing my car. That's what happened. I re-routed the hose bib I used for wash water to after the softener and all of these problems went away.

As a renter I cannot fix the broken-ness of this place as much, although that'd be the dream.

Promisingly, I just applied the carpro spotless to my front windshield and all of the spots are gone/minimal after a single application (instructions say to reapply until they are gone, I'll come back to it when I have time). Hopefully the same will go for the paint. I can recommend the carpro line of products though, although they are pricey

e: also, for anyone hitting water spots, there's a good youtube from "Pan the organizer" on an escalation path for spots (start with vinegar, if that doesn't work try xyz etc.) - he seems to have sponsors on some vids but it helped, ymmv

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hey detailing thread.....it's that time of year. Is there any decent spray wax type of thing to put on after pressure washing a bunch of equipment that's worth buying spraying? I'm talking mowers and stuff. Mostly these are left to rot out in a tree line or you hose them down with fluid film. Some of my stuff is still nice enough to be mostly paint and not just rust.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
I watched some video comparing a bunch of spray ceramic and the Turtle Wax spray hybrid was very impressive and cheap. I know you said wax, seemed related.

Edit:lol of course it's project farm.

https://youtu.be/uYxKQwZah1s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uYxKQwZah1s

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply