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therobit posted:Post/username combo. I swear to god, every time I advocate for something just a little risky!
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Mar 26, 2022 15:40
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ryanrs posted:The proper tool is a hammer. Lightly tap along the bottom of the transport cap where it's threaded onto the cylinder. You're not trying to impart torque with the hammer; you're just lightly jostling the threads and loosen any crap in there. Just tap tap tap while trying to turn it by hand and it should come off. good to know, thanks. I got it off before seeing your post though, I had a big rear end C-clamp that I stuck to the top which gave me a nice handle to grip and turn, and that worked out ok.
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Mar 26, 2022 15:59
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Okay, now my welding tank shopping is getting even more crazy. I asked today about a 125cf tank and the guy told me they charge the same amount for 125 and 150cf tanks - both to purchase and exchange 80cf $350 purchase $87 exchange 125/150cf $395 purchase $105 exchange Is there any real reason I shouldn’t go with a 150? Only thing I can think of is that they look heavy.
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Mar 26, 2022 21:21
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I don't see why not. I will say, I'd rather have two tanks than one so I can grab the second tank if I run out on a weekend, which always happens.
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Mar 26, 2022 22:41
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Do you have stairs in your house?
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Mar 26, 2022 23:09
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ryanrs posted:Do you have stairs in your house? I am protected.
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Mar 26, 2022 23:10
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Then you might want to go with the lighter 80cf cylinder.
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Mar 26, 2022 23:11
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  The Terrible Secret of Space I don’t know what welding I would be doing upstairs; my garage is at driveway level.
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Mar 27, 2022 01:57
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Get the big tank for sure.
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Mar 27, 2022 15:46
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If you get the big tank you will be at the welding supply store half as often? This seems worse.
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Mar 27, 2022 22:41
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tbh you're probably better off buying everything else online e: but maybe not in Alaska? or maybe especially in Alaska? 
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Mar 28, 2022 |
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Mar 28, 2022 00:43
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Actually the other consumables seem to be pretty normal pricing. Yesterday I picked up a big spool of Blue Demon ER70S-6 .024 wire for $52. I’m going to buy a big tank tomorrow; I had to return the borrowed tank as my friend needed his welder back for a Subaru he’s flipping. I’ll end up in the store often enough for nuts and bolts; they have the best selection of graded hardware in town.
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Mar 28, 2022 02:55
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Slight cross-post from the stupid questions thread: I need a gas fed MIG welder to be able to progress with the welding that's needed on my Dodge Dart. Currently using a nice, but inadequate flux core welder and end up chasing burn through and poor weld. I've found some OK options on amazon etc (europe), and argon gas / mix bottles can be bought (oof @ the price though). My question is, what should I be looking for in a decent MIG welder? So far I gather having as much setting variability as possible is preferable, but are there minimum/maximum amp / voltage ranges I need to have etc? At least I can comfort my wallet with the fact that it'll pay for itself in the end (and it's fun). The one I'm looking at has these specs: Welding current MIG: 40-185A MIG duty cycle: 185A–60% / 132A–100% (sound decent?) Welding wire diameter: 0,6mm / 0,8mm / 0,9mm / 1,0mm (0,8/1,0mm) and can handle steel, stainless steel, aluminum and aluminum alloys. MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 12:07 on Mar 28, 2022 |
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Mar 28, 2022 11:59
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MrOnBicycle posted:Slight cross-post from the stupid questions thread: I don't know about Europe, but renting tanks is affordable here in the lower 48 (sorry Advent). Get the biggest tank you can. You won't be doing much aluminum with mig unless you get a spool gun, and even then it's pretty crappy. That duty cycle is amazing.
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Mar 28, 2022 12:43
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sharkytm posted:Digital machines have come way down in price and allow you to set things much more precisely. I've got an older Miller 210A machine and I wish it had digital controls. Ok that's good to know because the machine I'm looking at is about €400 with a (seemingly decent) welders helmet and spool of wire included. I've already got a helmet, but if it's included why not. Maybe I'm not up to speed, but yeah that duty cycle seems almost too good. Doesn't really matter though as I won't come close to capping it anyway. Thankfully I don't need to weld anything other than sheet metal, and perhaps some thicker parts of the car. I think I'll have to research the tanks carefully as it seems like many places only accept certain types.
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Mar 28, 2022 13:00
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I have never welded anything. Will I get reasonable welds out of something like this. Or should I continue to look at Facebook Marketplace every day for months waiting for a Hobart or Lincoln unit in my price range? Will a complete newbie get up to speed faster with a cheapo MIG (with gas) or an American brand non-MIG welder? I am more interested in welding for structural repairs/modifications and furniture making than sheet metal work if that makes any difference. Stuff like making a custom seat bracket. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 15:29 on Mar 28, 2022 |
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Mar 28, 2022 15:06
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Real men* lean to weld with an oxy-acetylene torch.  *oh god don’t do this it’s more horrifying than it is useless
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Mar 28, 2022 15:12
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I don’t know about the YesWelder but the one my FIL raged at was a HitBox. It looked like one of the primary ways they cheap out on really inexpensive welders is the gun. That HitBox gun is *cheap*. Be aware of that. Also don’t buy super lovely ebay wire.
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Mar 28, 2022 15:54
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PBCrunch posted:Will a complete newbie get up to speed faster with a cheapo MIG (with gas) or an American brand non-MIG welder? I just got my first welder a few weeks ago and I picked the process and equipment so I could make strong, structural welds with the least possible amount of skill. MIG + argon/CO2 is definitely the way to go. Not flux core, not straight CO2. Forget about aluminum for now, welding aluminum is harder. My machine is a ESAB 215, which was pretty expensive (similar to Miller or Lincoln). It's a really nice welder, though. e: my first welds with this machine (I took about 12 hours of classes to learn the basics) 
ryanrs fucked around with this message at 16:32 on Mar 28, 2022 |
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Mar 28, 2022 16:13
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I have a cheap flux core machine from Hazard Fraught and it is not good to learn on as it isn't that powerful, jams a lot and the controls are not great for adjusting to where you need to be for different materials. If you are going to be doing a lot of welding buying a good machine is vital.
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Mar 28, 2022 16:38
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MrOnBicycle posted:Slight cross-post from the stupid questions thread: You've probably looked in to this, but can your current welder be set up to use gas? I've got a cheap big box store lincoln at work that I use for flux core, but it has a port on it, for gas, plus a regulator. ryanrs posted:
 Those look pretty dope!
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Mar 28, 2022 17:22
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wesleywillis posted:You've probably looked in to this, but can your current welder be set up to use gas? Unfortunately not. It was a cheap but well reviewed flux core welder. I can always sell it if I can be bothered with the hassle. I wasn't planning on getting a project car when I bought it, but so far it has repaired a cement mixed that cost double what the welder and supplied cost as well as welding on a bolt so I could put the passenger seat in my Chevy S10 so I consider it paid for. I think I'll just bite the bullet and buy decent welder that doesn't break the bank too much. I need to make some progress with my dart so better to get something sooner rather than later.
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Mar 28, 2022 17:32
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I love it when they call me Big Poppa
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Mar 28, 2022 22:06
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That's a proper tank
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Mar 28, 2022 23:22
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I need to drill approximately one million fairly large diameter holes into a steel frame (shameless plug for project thread here) and the general purpose drill bit set I have probably isn't going to get the job done. Any recommendations on what I should be looking for or even a good set? I had a friend tell me I need a set of reamers, which look like drill bits but more expensive?
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Mar 29, 2022 00:23
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What is fairly large? What are the holes for? I couldn't tell you if you need reamer or drill bit or dimple dies or a 12ga shotgun based on what you gave me.
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Mar 29, 2022 00:29
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um excuse me posted:What is fairly large? What are the holes for? I couldn't tell you if you need reamer or drill bit or dimple dies or a 12ga shotgun based on what you gave me. Fair point! I need 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2" for suspension mounting holes.
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Mar 29, 2022 00:50
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um excuse me posted:What is fairly large? What are the holes for? I couldn't tell you if you need reamer or drill bit or dimple dies or a 12ga shotgun based on what you gave me. "Fairly large" could be anything from 1/8" to several inches depending on your frame (  ) of reference. From your project thread, I'm guessing sizes are bigger than 1/4", smaller than 1"? Drilling through (probably mild) steel which is maybe 1/4" thick? I don't have any specific suggestions other than don't go cheap (ie, not Harbor Freight), and using a cutting fluid will probably make your life easier, as will drilling pilot (smaller diameter) holes before drilling them out to the final size.If you're drilling only a few different sizes, I'd probably just buy single bits of the right size from somewhere, rather than a full set. It sucks having a nice new set of shiny bits with 1-2 of them completely beat to hell and more or less useless. You probably don't need a reamer unless you're trying to hit a specific size to a tight tolerance, or need a nice surface finish on the inside of your holes, unless you can't find a normal bit of the correct size. Even if you do use a reamer, you need to drill a hole first for the reamer to go into. Edit: based on what you said, I'd just get High-Speed Steel bits without a fancy coating unless you really want to spend the money, and pick up some cutting fluid in in the process. boxen fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Mar 29, 2022 |
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Mar 29, 2022 00:54
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Yea a reamer is specifically to drill existing holes, usually of a depth that is deeper than the holes diameter, to a very straight, tight tolerance. Honestly, you have a few different diameters you want to hit and you're only going through maybe a 1/4 inch of steel at most, so I'd recommend a step drill bit. They're cheap enough to burn though and come in nitride high speed steel varieties to get some decent life out of them. Just make sure the step spacing is deep enough to get through your frame also get some tap fluid to extend your bits' lives.
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Mar 29, 2022 01:49
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um excuse me posted:Yea a reamer is specifically to drill existing holes, usually of a depth that is deeper than the holes diameter, to a very straight, tight tolerance. See boxen posted:
Reamers are for size and finish. For straight you need boring, grinding, or good interpolation! You'd be surprised how flexible reamers are when following a hole.
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Mar 29, 2022 04:17
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I normally use regular old black oxide HSS bits for that purpose. A good half inch gear reduction drill with a side handle makes it a lot less annoying as well. If you really want to go all out, get a drill doctor that will cover your drill bit size range, I actually prefer the sharpness of my resharpened bits over the factory fresh ones at this point. Any larger than about 3/4 inch and I start looking at the hole saw set.
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Mar 29, 2022 04:36
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See if you can find a Milwaukie 1/2" Hole Shooter on your local CL for $3-40. Age somewhere around 20yrs old - should still be Made in USA. These low RPM drills are perfect for this and breaking your wrist if you're not careful. I'll usually stock up on a pack of each size I need (https://www.amazon.com/Drill-America-Qualtech-High-Speed-Conventional/dp/B00FXI3KW4) and just feed them through my Drill doctor as they get dull.
the spyder fucked around with this message at 05:10 on Mar 29, 2022 |
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Mar 29, 2022 04:52
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Reading more about MIG welders makes it a bit more confusing. Some people claim that 40 amps is way too high of a minimum setting to be able to weld sheet metal for bodywork, while others claim it depends on voltage or the quality of the machine (regarding pulse settings). Then you have to factor in the wire diameter as well which should affect the amperage as well, right?
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Mar 29, 2022 09:44
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MrOnBicycle posted:Reading more about MIG welders makes it a bit more confusing. Some people claim that 40 amps is way too high of a minimum setting to be able to weld sheet metal for bodywork, while others claim it depends on voltage or the quality of the machine (regarding pulse settings). My short review is this, each machine is different. Also I think TIG is the way to go for sheet metal, MIG works and works well but if it's going to be sheet metal dedicated, go TIG. Yall with this welders this month, I have one tiny welding project to knock out, and nothing at all else on the horizon and all I want is a new welder.
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Mar 29, 2022 14:46
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I echo previous statements to our hole-drilling friend that he will want cutting fluid and something to sharpen drill bits. If you can carry the work piece to a drill press, I would strongly suggest using one. You can find them for peanuts on CL/FB marketplace.
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Mar 29, 2022 15:48
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PBCrunch posted:I echo previous statements to our hole-drilling friend that he will want cutting fluid and something to sharpen drill bits. If you can carry the work piece to a drill press, I would strongly suggest using one. You can find them for peanuts on CL/FB marketplace. As much as I REALLY want an excuse to buy a drill press, I am not quite strong enough to put a full-size truck frame on one. To all - appreciate the advice, particuarly to avoid reamers and to just buy a bunch of the sizes I need. I also very much hate having a mostly nice new set of something with one or two pieces that are worn out and useless. EDIT: I am looking at drill presses on Marketplace anyways. WTFBEES fucked around with this message at 16:59 on Mar 29, 2022 |
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Mar 29, 2022 16:53
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If you want a drill press to drill holes in truck frames you actually want what's called a bridge drill or a mag drill but be warned they're crazy expensive. Mine is a ragged out piece of junk that was heavily abused by the previous owner and I still got a good deal at 350 bucks on eBay, and had to put another hundred into it before it was usable at all. A good brand (Milwaukee or hougen, fein, etc) starts at a thousand bucks, a lovely import with a bot generated brand name starts at 300ish and I wouldn't expect them to really hold worth a gently caress.
kastein fucked around with this message at 17:17 on Mar 29, 2022 |
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Mar 29, 2022 17:14
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StormDrain posted:My short review is this, each machine is different. Yeah I think it boils down to that. I think I've decided on a MIG/MAG welder with single / double pulse function and fancy digital poo poo and automatic presets and all that crap. It goes down to 20 amps with 0.6mm wire. Also has lift start TIG if I should need it. Ended up paying double what I was planning, but I'd rather get something that seems good instead of getting something that barely does what I was hoping for. Thanks for the advice guys. 
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Mar 29, 2022 17:24
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kastein posted:If you want a drill press to drill holes in truck frames you actually want what's called a bridge drill or a mag drill but be warned they're crazy expensive. Mine is a ragged out piece of junk that was heavily abused by the previous owner and I still got a good deal at 350 bucks on eBay, and had to put another hundred into it before it was usable at all. A good brand (Milwaukee or hougen, fein, etc) starts at a thousand bucks, a lovely import with a bot generated brand name starts at 300ish and I wouldn't expect them to really hold worth a gently caress. The benefit of a mag drill/magnetic drill press is that whenever you see a movie where they're trying to break into a safe or vault, when they drill they lock you can go "hey, I have one of those".
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Mar 29, 2022 17:27
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kastein posted:If you want a drill press to drill holes in truck frames you actually want what's called a bridge drill or a mag drill but be warned they're crazy expensive. Mine is a ragged out piece of junk that was heavily abused by the previous owner and I still got a good deal at 350 bucks on eBay, and had to put another hundred into it before it was usable at all. A good brand (Milwaukee or hougen, fein, etc) starts at a thousand bucks, a lovely import with a bot generated brand name starts at 300ish and I wouldn't expect them to really hold worth a gently caress. I remember old job renting one for occasional uses. Not sure how easy that would be for an individual (we used companies that only worked with other companies, not individuals. Also, gently caress, I can't remember the name of the one place in Peoria (edit, 90% sure it was C&H Repair) that I had to work with that straight up invited me to work with them as a nice white person, not an awful colored person, after I had spoken with the owner for 15 minutes). Uthor fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Mar 29, 2022 |
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