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bird with big dick posted:How many cars have you had wrapped? I mean, you gotta do it really diy style  Edit: lol, $2k, why did I think it was way cheaper than that? I thought wrapping was cheaper than paint trilobite terror fucked around with this message at 05:56 on Mar 29, 2022 |
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Mar 29, 2022 05:53
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PainterofCrap posted:Because it may be losing power because the cat's blocked up. The backpressure isn't great for all of the upstream connections either. IOwnCalculus posted:I was thinking the same thing as PainterofCrap. It may be that you have a clogged cat causing poor performance from exhaust restriction, and then enough backpressure that you blew out something marginal upstream of the cat. One of my brothers had a Civic do that once - it would idle fine but fall on its face and start overheating with any real throttle. Blew out the donut gasket at the exhaust manifold too. it's this, and here are two ways to "fix" it for free if you are a peasant with low standards. take the cat off, ream the guts out, and put it back on OR put a couple holes in your exhaust before the cat. you're welcome
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Mar 29, 2022 06:09
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There's a guy here he will wrap your hood for $250 Kind of want to go mexico blue car, black fenders (so no wrap on fenders) on mine. Can't imagine it will be less than $1500
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Mar 29, 2022 09:20
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PainterofCrap posted:Hopefully, into the engine cooling. First thing to be sure of is that the cooling system is topped off. It's full. Huh. I wonder if the leak is from the radiator to the overflow tank?
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Mar 29, 2022 15:11
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Quick and dirty test for a plugged exhaust: Drive the car as-is to tune your butt dynamometer. Remove the upstream (between the engine and the catalytic convertor) oxygen sensor* and tie it out of the way. Drive the car again. It will probably be much louder. If it has a lot more power, there is congestion somewhere in your exhaust. The cat is the most likely culprit. Don't forget to put the oxygen sensor back in. Almost all oxygen sensors need a 7/8" (or 22mm) wrench to remove. Unplug the wiring connector first, then remove the sensor. The exhaust will be hot, so wear some gloves that offer some protection.
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Mar 29, 2022 15:43
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kid sinister posted:It's full. Huh. I wonder if the leak is from the radiator to the overflow tank? Could be. Also could be that the capture tank has a hole or crack. Fill the overflow tank right before you start it; drive it through a normal day, park it, and check the level after a couple hours of sitting.
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Mar 29, 2022 18:06
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PBCrunch posted:Quick and dirty test for a plugged exhaust: Obligatory not a mechanic disclaimer. If you pull the O2 sensor, car is going to run open loop with lots of fuel so I imagine you're going to find more power out of your car just from that alone, regardless of a clogged exhaust or not.
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Mar 29, 2022 18:27
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totalnewbie posted:Obligatory not a mechanic disclaimer. Your car is in open loop for a while every cold start. It shouldn't be a significantly noticeable difference due to that and it's something you're already "used to" (if it's even detectable) every time you start driving for the day if not more frequently.
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Mar 29, 2022 18:35
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Motronic posted:Your car is in open loop for a while every cold start. It shouldn't be a significantly noticeable difference due to that and it's something you're already "used to" (if it's even detectable) every time you start driving for the day if not more frequently. Oh yeah, that was what I was getting at, that you should compare removed O2 sensor with vehicle performance right after you start the car, not after it's warmed up and the RPMs (at idle) drop. But I didn't necessarily write it down because people should just read my mind, honestly. 
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Mar 29, 2022 19:08
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Does open loop actually give you more power though? More fuel doesn't mean more power unless you have more air, too, right? But I was suspecting clogged cat also but wanted someone with more experience to chime in.
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Mar 29, 2022 19:31
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Not a calibrator - but you'll typically rev higher/shift later (with an automatic..) in OL compared to CL and that will definitely give you more power.
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Mar 29, 2022 19:38
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The bump in power from running default-rich would be barely noticeable on the butt dyno. The increase from opening up a nearly clogged exhaust will be huge.
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Mar 29, 2022 23:17
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Probably a longer post but the S.O. is looking for a "new" car. By that I mean, a car that isn't her current one. She got approved for a 8k loan and the dealership is trying to tell her the car needs $16000 for repairs, which is asinine to me. (all new parts, is primarily the cost) It's a 2012 Nissan Versa hatchback, and cylinder 1 is hosed, specifically, something with the head or the headgasket. Our initial idea when it got looked at was either they needed to open the engine up, fix what was wrong, or replace the engine with an engine from the scrapyard (can source one for $250-450, and the labor was being quoted somewhere around $600-700) So, we get a working engine and the shop (not the dealership) was willing to swap it out and get a sticker for maybe in the ballpark of $1500. Seems reasonable to me, and cheaper than buying a new car. I assume the frame of the car isn't rusted to poo poo, and replacing the engine this way is a suitable use of money rather than spending $240 a month for 38 months. I could be wrong, I'm usually a computer guy and not a car guy. Now, she's looking at a 2012 Suzuki SX4 with like 136k miles that's under her budget ($7k), but, it's a Suzuki and it sounds like parts are hard to get for it (compared with parts for the nissan) by comparison. She's got some potential complaints with it like (I was at work and couldn't review it): - some cig/ash holes and it smells like it was smoked in - "the radio is crackly" (on some channels) - "sounds like I can hear air coming in the cabin when driving over 40mph with the windows up" - "hard to shift from Drive into Park, takes a lot of effort" Offhand it sounds like maybe a loose cable for the radio, or a bad cabin seal (maybe window motor didn't go all the way up?) or a worn shifter cable? but IDK what it would take to fix any of that. I assume we could argue the cost down, with trying to trade in the versa, and these issues to maybe $6k, but "my" issue is this feels like a lateral move from a car that doesn't really work, to a car that works. That being said, it also feels like simply replacing what's wrong with the nissa versa is the cheaper option in the long run. But, is one a bad idea with a less bad idea? I don't have the perspective. For context, the Nissan Dealership took it apart to say this was what they wanted to do: - long black engine - used LKQ engine - front pad and rotors (I can do this instead) - full exhaust system (quote: "multiple exhaust leaks with a clogged cat will need full exhaust system", leaks aside it sounds like you could clear a clogged cat with some lacquer, apparently) - wiper (lol) - summer tires (lol) Anyways, opinions would be appreciated. I'm leaning towards the cheaper option of replacing what works, given the used car market is hosed. 50 miles > or so is worse cars than this, arguably.
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Mar 30, 2022 00:29
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Wait, her current car is the Nissan Versa? The Suzuki sounds terrible and there's no way it's worth $7k. Is there nothing better around? Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Mar 30, 2022 |
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Mar 30, 2022 00:38
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Probably a longer post but the S.O. is looking for a "new" car. By that I mean, a car that isn't her current one. Absolutely a better option to find a wrecker engine ****that has a warranty**** and to pay a shop a couple grand to put it in. You at least know the issues your current car has - imagine spending 7k on a car that's going to have the same or worse issues and you have no idea. Having issues shifting, probable water leaks from poor sealing, etc are huge huge red flags on a used car. So get a wrecker engine and make sure they'll reimburse you for not only the cost of the engine but also the cost of the installation if it turns out to be a dud. You'll also want to do the timing belt (if that car has one) and maybe some major seals before the engine goes into the car just because it's going to be super easy and way cheaper. You can take the car to an exhaust shop after the engine is in and have them replace the parts with issues. I wouldn't put any product through a clogged cat - just get a universal cat welded in when the exhaust shop does whatever else. A full headers-back exhaust with a universal cat from an exhaust shop should be less than $500.
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Mar 30, 2022 00:51
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I love the SX4 but don't get a used one especially with the CVT. Edit: I guess some still had a 4 speed auto Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Mar 30, 2022 |
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Mar 30, 2022 00:57
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Deteriorata posted:Wait, her current car is the Nissan Versa? Most of the other cars are older, and with comparable miles or more, and I think she was hoping for a newer car in age. There's a few outliers on like edmunds or autotraders but not much. It's being sold by a local repair shop that hasn't led us astray in the past, not some dude off facebook or w/e VelociBacon posted:words Yeah that's what I was thinking, the muffler for $500, the engine for $1200-1500 so a $2000 loan instead of $8000 (unlikely the bank can go higher, but maybe slightly). The same place is selling a 2014 passat with 135k for $10k (the suzuki is actually 125k miles) and that kind of feels like a better deal but she didn't test drive that one, but also, volkswagen... This is kind of helpful for me too, as luck would have it, I also have a nissan versa (older) and will need to replace mine soon since it's creeping on 245k miles. It doesn't need as much work, but I think I have maybe a year or two out of it. She's been using mine while hers isn't working. GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Mar 30, 2022 |
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Mar 30, 2022 01:15
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GreenBuckanneer posted:- full exhaust system (quote: "multiple exhaust leaks with a clogged cat will need full exhaust system", leaks aside it sounds like you could clear a clogged cat with some lacquer, apparently) If the cat is actually clogged, the catalyst has mechanically failed and no chemical wash will fix it. If you get emissions inspections, you have to replace it with a good catalytic converter. If not, you can get by with replacing the cat with a piece of pipe or gutting the catalyst out of the existing cat.
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Mar 30, 2022 01:26
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IOwnCalculus posted:If the cat is actually clogged, the catalyst has mechanically failed and no chemical wash will fix it. If you get emissions inspections, you have to replace it with a good catalytic converter. "Catalytic converters are required on 1982 and newer models. All vehicles originally equipped with a converter, must have one regardless of its age." Unfortunately that's $284 minimum for the part, so the above $500 sounds fair
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Mar 30, 2022 01:35
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PBCrunch posted:Turn the key to ON. Listen for a brief gentle hum. This would be the fuel pump building pressure in the system. If you turn the key to on and hear nothing, start looking at fuel supply issues. Try to start the car, then pull out a spark plug and sniff it. If it reeks of gas, you probably don't have a fuel problem. Update: clicked to on and heard the hum. Pulled the coil to do the spark test and now realizing I never actually pulled the plug to check for gas smell, which may be moot after the next bit. Put a spare plug on the coil and had my wife turn it over. First time she didn't go very long, and I thought I saw a spark at the end. Had her go again for a five count, and not only did I see spark on the one I was testing, the engine started up. The spark on the spare plug I had connected seemed consistent. I have no idea if it starting when that coil was pulled is something or a red herring. One thing I did notice when both of us were turning it over - instead of the normal starter cadence it was surging then slowing down, which I don't remember it doing yesterday. As hard as it was for Car Talk callers to recreate sounds vocally, I have no idea how to communicate it here in writing. And no aftermarket security stuff or remote start. Again, maybe another red herring, but coincidentally while It was parked outside the garage for about five days last week, the alarm went off seemingly randomly three times (that we know of). Twice in the evening, and we blamed the racoon that starts to get active at that time. The other time was the middle of the day, which was exceedingly windy and we wrote it off as related to that. Me moving it from the driveway to the garage on Saturday was the last time it started normally. To my knowledge, the alarm hasn't gone off in the garage.
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Mar 30, 2022 01:56
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Hadlock posted:
   This popped up in my thread today. 360k miles, $4000 usd note the winch on the front bumper. There's some detail shots where they salvaged the front VW headlamp lens then crammed a ton of harbor freight lights in the hole
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Mar 30, 2022 04:45
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takes notes
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Mar 30, 2022 05:09
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Hadlock posted:
Not gonna lie, a part of me is jealous
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Mar 30, 2022 05:36
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Hadlock posted:
Gonna need that for the water wars.
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Mar 30, 2022 07:06
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This has got to be a trap, lol I don't know enough about Mercs to know the nature of the trap, but aw hell no E: ever since I bought the Miata I get endless ads all over the internet for convertibles of every type
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Mar 30, 2022 09:14
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Blowjob Overtime posted:One thing I did notice when both of us were turning it over - instead of the normal starter cadence it was surging then slowing down, which I don't remember it doing yesterday. As hard as it was for Car Talk callers to recreate sounds vocally, I have no idea how to communicate it here in writing. could be due to having one cylinder that's not working, although that wouldn't affect cranking before it starts firing to clarify, you had all the plugs still in it, right? my first thought was that the one you had taken out was causing it to run faster because of no compression, but then i re-read what you wrote, and saw that you were testing with a spare plug, leaving the original in the alarm you mention is the factory alarm, not some add-on thing? Hadlock posted:
i like the thirdgen wheels
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Mar 30, 2022 09:26
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Hey thread - some of you might remember me from last month when I posted about the clutch in my Focus RS making GBS threads its pants. I've had it back from my mechanic for 1 month now, and this Monday the clutch pedal has started feeling funny again. Inconsistent amount of pressure needed to press the pedal, feels like it doesn't lift smoothly either. I'm dropping it back off with the mechanic tomorrow. Pretty sure they guarantee their work for... some amount of time? They've been pretty honest/transparent about whether other work needed to be done or not so I mostly trust them. I'm really hoping they're just going to lift it up and go, "Yep this bastard is leaking again. We'll re-do it and have it back to you next week" I thought maybe after fixing everything I have in the last year that hey maybe it'll finally be fine to drive, but I just can't keep this unreliable piece of poo poo any longer. Or at least I was thinking of holding on to it until the GR Corolla comes out. But with more clutch issues, yea, this thing has to go ASAP. Problem is, there isn't really anything I think I want / can afford. A dealer near me has an okayish 330i F31 but I'm kind of wondering how much it might depreciate if I buy it now and then sell it again 6-12 months down the line once the GR Corolla is available. Should I just suck it up and buy a dumb boring sad econo car to tide me over?
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Mar 30, 2022 13:59
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Quick question about shops - anyone have a good shop in Las Vegas that specializes in modified Japanese cars? I do my own work, but I've had a guy who's handled heavy duty mods and helped me pass smog every year for the last few years. Unfortunately he's in the process of relocating his business so he's out of commission for a couple of months. Now it's smog time again and I need someone who understands these things. Any thoughts?
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Mar 30, 2022 14:09
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Hadlock posted:
man you could get a whole nother beater for less than they got into that rack and it'd be just as capable offroad/hopefully not have almost four hundred thousand miles
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Mar 30, 2022 16:49
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Raluek posted:could be due to having one cylinder that's not working, although that wouldn't affect cranking before it starts firing Correct, no plugs removed, just the coil taken off of one of them. I did turn it over with all the coils on initially and believe it was still uneven then, but would have to confirm that's the case. The first time it wouldn't start was Monday, but our other vehicle was available, so I tried to start it for about 10 seconds and immediately punted the issue. Troubleshooting it yesterday it spent more time turning over than it did Monday, so maybe the issue isn't "it won't start", but "it takes way too long to start". Raluek posted:the alarm you mention is the factory alarm, not some add-on thing? Also correct, and I probably shouldn't have even mentioned it. It just caught my eye because the reason we moved my car into the garage in the first place is because of the alarm going off with it in the driveway.
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Mar 30, 2022 17:10
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Sab669 posted:Hey thread - some of you might remember me from last month when I posted about the clutch in my Focus RS making GBS threads its pants. I've had it back from my mechanic for 1 month now, and this Monday the clutch pedal has started feeling funny again. Inconsistent amount of pressure needed to press the pedal, feels like it doesn't lift smoothly either. Most shops do offer some kind of warranty, though the terms and all that vary widely. I hope they are able to do something for you, as it sounds some failure of the hydraulic system, which I remember getting repaired to some degree when it was first in. Personally, I don't know that I'd go writing off the car just yet, but I don't know its full history. It might be a good time to sell, but it's also a terrible time to buy. So for the rest, there is a car buying thread over in Ask/Tell: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538 In general though, I suspect they'd recommend against a short-term purchase, and especially not a BMW of unknown origins. A more budget-friendly car of some sort maybe would be looked upon more kindly, but still you're liable to spend many more dollars than you would if you kept your car until you were able to get something you would stick with long-term. I can't imagine the GR Corolla is going to be something you can easily buy once it makes it over here either, but I could be totally wrong in my assessment.
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Mar 30, 2022 18:07
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The passenger side power door of my 2001 Chrysler Voyager has not been working since I've bought the car. I've disassembled the door, removed the motor and tried it with a power supply, and it was working fine. Lubed the clutch and the gears (they are said to be the main issues) and put it back. It worked a few times, but after half an hour it has stopped moving the door once again. The cinch actuator seems to be working, as the only thing the door buttons do is pop it open a bit. Weirdly though, it also fails to pull the door back to the closed position, it tries twice and fails. The sliding motor does nothing now. Connections seem to be fine, I've triple-tested the cabling and found no breaks despite wiggling it around. I've lubed up the latch as well, seems to be working smoothly. Does anyone maybe have a tip where to look at next? I'll try and have the slider motor tested at a nearby car electrician, if he can do such a thing.
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Mar 30, 2022 19:05
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Stupid question -- how often to brake calipers get stuck? I've done many dozens of brake jobs over the years, probably inching close to 100, and other than a beater Toyota in the '90s, I've never seen a piston that I couldn't retract. Until this year. Doing my brother's front brakes on his '09 GTI, the left front caliper absolutely would not retract, no matter the amount of force I used. Then today, I've known that my back right brake was dragging on my '05 Escalade. I figured the guides needed lubed. Nope. Guides were springy and slide-y. But again, no matter the amount of force I used on either piston (or both together), it would not retract. Calipers for that are easy and cheap, I'm just wondering if I just haven't seen a common failure, or if I'm missing something.
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Mar 30, 2022 19:14
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meatpimp posted:Stupid question -- how often to brake calipers get stuck? I've never seen a seized piston across a dozen or so cars over the last 20 years. I've seen a couple guides that needed Emery cloth and lubrication. I'm assuming you are using a tool that rotates the piston in on the rear calipers where appropriate?
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Mar 30, 2022 19:33
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meatpimp posted:Stupid question -- how often to brake calipers get stuck? Not too often but it can happen. Especially if the owner is extremely negligent in routine vehicle maintenance and never replaces their brake fluid. Like my old parents, who were the only people I know who managed to kill a 99 Camry and 04 Highlander. In their case the seized pistons were the least of their worries after I took a good look at both vehicles. Noticed my dad's Highlander was always pulling to the right when I applied the brakes but he was convinced that "All it needs is a tire rebalancing" 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Mar 30, 2022 |
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Mar 30, 2022 19:48
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nitsuga posted:Most shops do offer some kind of warranty, though the terms and all that vary widely. I hope they are able to do something for you, as it sounds some failure of the hydraulic system, which I remember getting repaired to some degree when it was first in. Personally, I don't know that I'd go writing off the car just yet, but I don't know its full history. It might be a good time to sell, but it's also a terrible time to buy. I actually dropped the car off early today since I said to myself, "Not driving that unsafe mess why wait until tomorrow" -- they called back and said they bled the clutch, no air in it, 3 of 'em test drove it and didn't feel anything wrong with it. I admit, driving home the pedal was much more firm, but I swear it's been off this week. I feel like I'm going crazy. I was almost hoping they'd find something wrong, cover it, and solidify my want to sell this car. I've just been so stressed every noise it makes, waiting for the next issue. Still going to get a PPI on an E91 instead of an F31 this week, found one for a good price and I doubt that'll depreciate much more by the time I could get a GR Corolla. As long as it doesn't cost me much other than maintenance I'd be happy.
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Mar 30, 2022 20:46
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VelociBacon posted:I've never seen a seized piston across a dozen or so cars over the last 20 years. I've seen a couple guides that needed Emery cloth and lubrication. I'm assuming you are using a tool that rotates the piston in on the rear calipers where appropriate? Oh, I got burned on that with my first brake job -- 1990 coupe quattro. I had no idea there were calipers that needed to be rotated to retract. This is pre-internet-instant-availability of information and I finally figured it out. So no, this has a regular drum parking brake inside the brake rotor and a standard 2-piston straight in/out caliper. melon cat posted:Not too often but it can happen. Especially if the owner is extremely negligent in routine vehicle maintenance and never replaces their brake fluid. Like my old parents, who were the only people I know who managed to kill a 99 Camry and 04 Highlander. In their case the sezied pistons were the least of their worries after I took a good look at both vehicles. Noticed my dad's Highlander was always pulling to the right when I applied the brakes but he was convinced that "All it needs is a tire rebalancing" This may be part of my issue. I don't think I've changed the brake fluid in the 6 years that I've had it. I'll make sure to give 'er a good flush when I change the caliper.
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Mar 30, 2022 20:47
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Sab669 posted:I actually dropped the car off early today since I said to myself, "Not driving that unsafe mess why wait until tomorrow" -- they called back and said they bled the clutch, no air in it, 3 of 'em test drove it and didn't feel anything wrong with it. I admit, driving home the pedal was much more firm, but I swear it's been off this week. I feel like I'm going crazy. That’s good! Come to think of it, I have had a hell of a time with clutches after bleeding them too, so it makes sense if that’s all it was. No disrespect on the BMW-lust either. They certainly have their appeal, and a decent enough one could get by with routine maintenance for a while I imagine.
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Mar 30, 2022 22:55
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Hi, I'm not at all knowledgeable about cars (only to the extent I am legally allowed to drive one), but I wanted to ask AI for any tips or suggestions about how to become a better driver. I think this thread is meant for short questions so I'll try not to go on too much, but for context I'm 34 but have only been driving since I was about 27. I was taught how to drive by a small local place that teaches high school students. I've lived in the Greater Boston Area since I was 18. I drive a 2014 Toyota Camry (this is the only car I've ever owned). I know that driving is something you're supposed to get better at with time, but I feel like I'm not doing very well. I don't seem to have great spatial awareness; I'm so hopeless with parking that I prefer to back into spaces with my backup camera. I've also had gaffes like when I put a big scrape on my passenger side when I accidentally cuddled into a corner inside a tight Boston parking garage. Today I got a flat because I think I clipped a curb (I'm not even sure exactly what happened). I tore out a chunk of the tire sidewall. It made me feel pretty bad about myself.  I guess my question is, are there places that teach people how to improve driving instead of just how to drive in the first place? I Googled things like "driving lessons for adults" and "driving improvement lessons" but I'm still getting a lot of results about how to prepare your teen for driving. Practicing parking is something I'd like to do especially, but I'm not sure how to do it without actually having the option to bump into things to know when I'm doing it wrong. I'm worried about creeping people out if I show up to a mostly empty garage or lot with a bunch of cones and just start tenderly maneuvering around them. I'm very self-conscious and I have really bad social anxiety so it makes me really nervous to park when a stranger is looking at me ... (I'm in therapy, though, so I'll get there eventually.)Sorry if this vibe is kind of pitiful, but after occasionally lurking in the bad cars thread for a giggle I thought this might be a good place to get some really honest advice about driving.
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Mar 30, 2022 23:15
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Yeah Obviously posted:Today I got a flat because I think I clipped a curb (I'm not even sure exactly what happened). I tore out a chunk of the tire sidewall. It made me feel pretty bad about myself. I did exactly this a few years ago in Boston. I'm 35 and I've been driving since I was 12, poo poo happens, sometimes you clip a Boston curb and lose a tire. Yeah Obviously posted:Practicing parking is something I'd like to do especially, but I'm not sure how to do it without actually having the option to bump into things to know when I'm doing it wrong. I'm worried about creeping people out if I show up to a mostly empty garage or lot with a bunch of cones and just start tenderly maneuvering around them. I'm very self-conscious and I have really bad social anxiety so it makes me really nervous to park when a stranger is looking at me ... I have taught four people to drive stick and three people to drive motorcycles using this exact method. I suggest Suffolk Downs because their parking lot is huge and if there isn't an event it'll be completely empty. I've used Assembly Row and South Bay Center parking lots in the past, but both of these shopping centers have become much more crowded since then. Look around and go scout out some locations so you know where you can go to practice. I use google maps satellite imagery to visually spot big parking lots in the area, then zoom in to see what kind of property it is. If anyone ever gives you poo poo, ask them if they've ever practiced, and if they say no, suggest that they would be a better driver if they did. Edit: One time I took someone to Suffolk Downs in a snowstorm to practice winter driving. We got stuck, so we practiced getting unstuck. Someone driving a skidsteer offered to help get us unstuck and we had to decline because getting stuck was kinda the point. RadioPassive fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Mar 30, 2022 |
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Mar 30, 2022 23:21
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