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Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.



Planning a bathroom reno and it's workmanship like this that reminds me that actually, leaving the existing and new-ish acrylic shower surround really isn't so bad after all.

Well that was a lovely snipe, but still not as lovely as that tile job.

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Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Technically the garage is part of the house, and arguably the most important, at least in my opinion.

We moved in last June and it's great having a garage but now it's time to start making it work for me. We're still trying to plan how we want to organize it but we started with getting all uniform totes from Costco (green made black and yellow tough totes). I went through a bunch of stuff that was left by the POs like scrap wood etc.

I couldn't find any rafter hooks that would fit my 4x8 beams so I bought some flat steel and made my own. I used rubber plumbing insulation for padding to hang our skis up and out of the way.



One huge issue was lighting, you can see in those photos. There was a single wall mounted flood light which just didn't really work. It cast bad shadows and didn't put out a lot of light. Harbor fright has some LED shop lights for $20 so I bought 4 and wanted to see how they would work. The lights can chain together so I plugged them into one another and swapped the old flood light with an outlet so the lights are switch operated. It was crazy bright after. No shadows. It feels like a new garage.



My garage door opener was super old. Zero safety measures, no remotes. The button to open it worked 50% of the time. I bought a new 1.25hp belt drive model and holy poo poo, it's really quiet. Having remotes and a key pad is nice. It also has a lockout feature from inside that prevents the keypad or the remotes from opening the garage which is nice. I also get a notification when it's open or closed. While installing it, I added another outlet and an extension cord reel.

The other issue was there were only two outlets in my entire garage, one of which was up high for the garage door opener. I needed to add more so I started roughing out electrical for the other two walls. I'll be adding 6 additional outlets.

In the next few weeks we'll be ordering sod so that will be fun. I also noticed our sliding glass door needs to be fixed/replaced. The window is bowed in and rubs against the door when it opens. The aluminium frame is also coming apart. I tried fixing it but it keeps coming undone when the door closes.

It's going to be a busy and expensive few weeks/months.

redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum
Since we started putting humidifiers in the house, one room in particular smells like cigarette smoke. We didn't smell it before but it's there now. Not new smoke, ancient smoke. No, our almost two year old is not smoking. So how do we get rid of it? The Internet says to wash the walls with water and vinegar, and possibly do an HVAC deep clean, repaint the room, and replace the carpet. We can't afford all of that right now, anyone dealt with this before?

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

redreader posted:

Since we started putting humidifiers in the house, one room in particular smells like cigarette smoke. We didn't smell it before but it's there now. Not new smoke, ancient smoke. No, our almost two year old is not smoking. So how do we get rid of it? The Internet says to wash the walls with water and vinegar, and possibly do an HVAC deep clean, repaint the room, and replace the carpet. We can't afford all of that right now, anyone dealt with this before?

Have you considered taking up smoking, so that the new smoke overwhelms the old smoke?

(I've got nothing; never had that problem. :( )

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?

redreader posted:

Since we started putting humidifiers in the house, one room in particular smells like cigarette smoke. We didn't smell it before but it's there now. Not new smoke, ancient smoke. No, our almost two year old is not smoking. So how do we get rid of it? The Internet says to wash the walls with water and vinegar, and possibly do an HVAC deep clean, repaint the room, and replace the carpet. We can't afford all of that right now, anyone dealt with this before?

Do you have hardwood or carpet in that room? Thoroughly steam clean any carpets. Scrub the floors if wood.

The best thing to do quickly is to wash all the surfaces as much as you can without over soaking the walls and ceiling. You'll want to do it several times. This includes all hard surfaces, windows, trim, fixtures, doors and knobs etc. Anything in the room will hold that smell. I would suggest the water and vinegar method, the other option is ammonia but vinegar is easy and cheap.

You could also consider an ozone machine for a day but you might want to hire a pro to do this if you're not familiar.

Next would be prime and paint. I would use kiltz restoration or something similar meant to seal. Thoroughly prime and then paint. This should do the bulk of the work removing the smell.

Honestly, cleaning/priming/painting is going to make the biggest difference.

Poldarn
Feb 18, 2011

redreader posted:

Since we started putting humidifiers in the house, one room in particular smells like cigarette smoke. We didn't smell it before but it's there now. Not new smoke, ancient smoke. No, our almost two year old is not smoking. So how do we get rid of it? The Internet says to wash the walls with water and vinegar, and possibly do an HVAC deep clean, repaint the room, and replace the carpet. We can't afford all of that right now, anyone dealt with this before?

I'd be scared of a slow smouldering electrical fire where the burning wire parts smell similar to cigarettes.

redreader
Nov 2, 2009

I am the coolest person ever with my pirate chalice. Seriously.

Dinosaur Gum

Poldarn posted:

I'd be scared of a slow smouldering electrical fire where the burning wire parts smell similar to cigarettes.

Worth a look! The attic access is in that room too, so I went up and it's all ok in there. It really is a smell awakened by the humidifier. I think we'll have to do a steam clean (it is carpet) and a repaint. Thankfully there's not much stuff in there yet. Thanks for the advice everyone!

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009
So, my garage has a 5-20 outlet on its own dedicated circuit. Install is a bit janky looking.



I'm considering adding a 6-20 (for car charging).

Is it reasonable to expect an electrician to be able to use the same conduit, and maybe use a duplex combo receptacle that has one 5-20 and one 6-20 outlet on it, if that's even a thing?

Tyro fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Mar 28, 2022

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal

Tyro posted:

So, my garage has a 5-20 outlet on its own dedicated circuit. Install is a bit janky looking.



I'm considering adding a 6-20 (for car charging).

Is it reasonable to expect an electrician to be able to use the same conduit, and maybe use a duplex combo receptacle that has one 5-20 and one 6-20 outlet on it, if that's even a thing?

You would need two different wires cause you are turning the current neutral to a hot to have a combo but you should be able to convert it to 6 20

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Why not go all the way and add a 14-50?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

On a scale of 1 to insane where does "I'll buy a push lawn mower because there's no maintenance besides sharpening the blades, and I need the exercise because i'm a wfh computer toucher" fall

Back yard is perfectly flat, about 30x60 and then there's a negligible strip of grass in the right of way between the street and the sidewalk maybe 100 sq ft, if that

Looks like American Lawn Mower and Scotts both make acceptable quality models for ~100usd? I'm sure there's some tradeoff between the 14", time, and effort, and the 18" model but I suspect they only offer the 14, 16 and 18" models because it's hard to have a company that just sells a single product, an 18" model

edit: I'm using mostly a shade blend of grass seed, which appears to mostly be fescues which is a bit more on the fine side, like bermuda

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Mar 29, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hadlock posted:

On a scale of 1 to insane where does "I'll buy a push lawn mower because there's no maintenance besides sharpening the blades, and I need the exercise because i'm a wfh computer toucher" fall

Are you talking about a manual reel mower? Because those things cut VERY nicely and as long as the yard is flat (I don't mean slopes, I mean good even ground without stones or ruts) they are great if it's a small enough area that you can handle pushing it.

When you really really want grass to look great and be healthy, think golf courses, reel mowers are primarily what is used (albeit on motorized platforms).

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

ah yeah that is the technical term I suppose, yes, manual reel mower

last time I pushed one, was out of curiousity when I was like, 9 years old, and it had been sitting, rusting unused in the back corner of the garage since before I was born, so I have no idea what they're actually like to push if new and not rusted and forgotten about in 95% humidity. presumably a new one fresh out of the box won't be completely terrible

And yeah the yard is perfectly flat, sandy east coast costal land. Almost looks like someone came in with a dump truck load of white beach sand and professionally graded the land. I think that's just the local soil here though. and the fact that this is probably at least the third home built on this ancient city lot

kind of wondering what the high end reel mower market could look like, there's a lot of crossover technology available from the high end stroller market

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hadlock posted:

ah yeah that is the technical term I suppose, yes, manual reel mower

last time I pushed one, was out of curiousity when I was like, 9 years old, and it had been sitting, rusting unused in the back corner of the garage since before I was born, so I have no idea what they're actually like to push if new and not rusted and forgotten about in 95% humidity. presumably a new one fresh out of the box won't be completely terrible

And yeah the yard is perfectly flat, sandy east coast costal land. Almost looks like someone came in with a dump truck load of white beach sand and professionally graded the land. I think that's just the local soil here though. and the fact that this is probably at least the third home built on this ancient city lot

kind of wondering what the high end reel mower market could look like, there's a lot of crossover technology available from the high end stroller market

They take some oomph to get moving, but work like a flywheel so they don't take much to keep moving. Sounds like you have a perfect yard for that kind of thing and in a place where local stores may even sell them. See if you can rent/borrow one and give it a try.

therobit
Aug 19, 2008

I've been tryin' to speak with you for a long time
I’ve gotten one for free and another that I bought cheap on Craigslist (like $30 or something, I don’t remember). As Motronic said they do not like any kind of obstruction. Any kind of little twigs or stones can stop them dead. But they are piss easy to use apart from that. If you have children, you can probably Tom Sawyer them into mowing the lawn because they will think it’s fun to push.

The other thing to keep in mind is that you can’t let the grass get overgrown or it will not work.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

therobit posted:

The other thing to keep in mind is that you can’t let the grass get overgrown or it will not work.

Oh yes....this too. You need to be on a SCHEDULE. And have a backup plan like a string trimmer. Because they absolutely don't cut long grass.

gwrtheyrn
Oct 21, 2010

AYYYE DEEEEE DUBBALYOO DA-NYAAAAAH!

Hadlock posted:

On a scale of 1 to insane where does "I'll buy a push lawn mower because there's no maintenance besides sharpening the blades, and I need the exercise because i'm a wfh computer toucher" fall

I'm on my first year of ownership of one, but they're fine to use. I got the american mowers one, and it's not really hard to push. It will very abruptly stop if it gets jammed up by anything though. I got it more for the smaller space to store it than anything else, and I have a tiny lawn that nobody but me and my neighbor can see anyways. Fortunately grass here doesn't grow too fast so I can be a bit lazy about it

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog
My big Lawn Project for 2022 is to improve my soupy, swampy bog-like drainage. Pacific Northwest clay soil with an underground river that flows right under my house but only seems to affect the eastern half of my lawn, so it seems POSSIBLE to get this under control.


Some not-quite-professional landscapers put a French Drain under the lawn last summer but it didn't help even the tiniest bit. One day of rain and my lawn is ready to drown Artax. Another lawn specialist said I should just throw a full inch of soil & sand on top of the muddy side, let the grass grow, and repeat it again next year until it's built up enough above the water table, but man that's a lotta dirt!

moana
Jun 18, 2005

one of the more intellectual satire communities on the web

Hadlock posted:

On a scale of 1 to insane where does "I'll buy a push lawn mower because there's no maintenance besides sharpening the blades, and I need the exercise because i'm a wfh computer toucher" fall

Back yard is perfectly flat, about 30x60 and then there's a negligible strip of grass
Do like me and get a reel mower and then immediately cover your backyard with raised beds and pumpkin patches and sunflowers so you don't have a lawn to mow anymore.

BadSamaritan
May 2, 2008

crumb by crumb in this big black forest


A reel mower is good- we have a similar lawn and it makes it easy and peaceful/quiet to mow. I can do it at 6am or during baby naps and it’s no biggie.

My one caveat is if your yard is bounded in by a fence and has short/narrow segments it can be a pain to get it moving and to get all the way to the edge easily.

I’d be really excited about crossover with the high end stroller market but it doesn’t seem to exist :(

Angry Pie
Feb 4, 2007
Do you want a piece of me?!

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

My big Lawn Project for 2022 is to improve my soupy, swampy bog-like drainage. Pacific Northwest clay soil with an underground river that flows right under my house but only seems to affect the eastern half of my lawn, so it seems POSSIBLE to get this under control.


Some not-quite-professional landscapers put a French Drain under the lawn last summer but it didn't help even the tiniest bit. One day of rain and my lawn is ready to drown Artax. Another lawn specialist said I should just throw a full inch of soil & sand on top of the muddy side, let the grass grow, and repeat it again next year until it's built up enough above the water table, but man that's a lotta dirt!

I have the same PNW wet clay dirt at my house but the wettest part is limited to the far end of the sloped back yard. The neighbours have added a lot of fill to their lot to get a regular flat yard, but we decided to just make a bog garden instead. Ferns, hostas, elephant ears, japanese iris, and whatever else we figure out. It's literally just in planning stages at this point (we've only been in the house 2 years and also I loving hate gardening) but it's an idea if you're willing to get rid of the lawn altogether.

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Grass whip or get out. :colbert:

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009

Elephanthead posted:

You would need two different wires cause you are turning the current neutral to a hot to have a combo but you should be able to convert it to 6 20

Yeah I am hoping to keep the 5-20 and also add a 6-20, but that could be an option too.


bird with big dick posted:

Why not go all the way and add a 14-50?

Because it's charging a Volt and I'm selling the house next year

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

If you have a boggy space, I'd be tempted to excavate it another 30", throw down a thin mat to slow down drainage and put in a seasonal pond, or just have an actual koi pond

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

Hadlock posted:

If you have a boggy space, I'd be tempted to excavate it another 30", throw down a thin mat to slow down drainage and put in a seasonal pond, or just have an actual koi pond

I have a golden retriever, so this is simultaneously the best and worst idea

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.

Tyro posted:

Yeah I am hoping to keep the 5-20 and also add a 6-20, but that could be an option too.

Because it's charging a Volt and I'm selling the house next year

Wiring thread is over here:

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739

Off the top of my head, I would expect that you could pretty quickly and easily repurpose the circuit for a 6-20. IIRC you can just phase tape the N wire at both ends to repurpose it, but if you have conduit then it'd be pretty simple to pull a new wire. Then all you'd need to do is re-wire the breaker side and install the new receptacle. This is of course assuming it's a dedicated circuit. If not, then it may not be as simple as that... could be slightly more complex, could be much more complex.

Only other gotcha is you'd need a 2-pole breaker, instead of the current 1-pole, so if your panelboard is full up then you might be SOL.

I don't know what code says about 2 different style/voltage receptacles in the same junction box. That's a 2-gang box, so you could theoretically install 2 different receptacles... but I don't know if it's legal. That said, you would need to run 2 more wires because they'd be each on separate circuits. So you'd need the conduit to be big enough to handle 2 more wires. Should be fine, but if other wires are going through it, or if the wires are bigger than they need to be, then this could be an issue. And of course you'd still need a new 2-pole breaker.

Assuming the conduit can fit the wires you need, I would guess an electrician could do this for $200-$300 maybe? Though with prices the way they are, who knows...

Tyro
Nov 10, 2009

DaveSauce posted:

Wiring thread is over here:

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739

Off the top of my head, I would expect that you could pretty quickly and easily repurpose the circuit for a 6-20. IIRC you can just phase tape the N wire at both ends to repurpose it, but if you have conduit then it'd be pretty simple to pull a new wire. Then all you'd need to do is re-wire the breaker side and install the new receptacle. This is of course assuming it's a dedicated circuit. If not, then it may not be as simple as that... could be slightly more complex, could be much more complex.

Only other gotcha is you'd need a 2-pole breaker, instead of the current 1-pole, so if your panelboard is full up then you might be SOL.

I don't know what code says about 2 different style/voltage receptacles in the same junction box. That's a 2-gang box, so you could theoretically install 2 different receptacles... but I don't know if it's legal. That said, you would need to run 2 more wires because they'd be each on separate circuits. So you'd need the conduit to be big enough to handle 2 more wires. Should be fine, but if other wires are going through it, or if the wires are bigger than they need to be, then this could be an issue. And of course you'd still need a new 2-pole breaker.

Assuming the conduit can fit the wires you need, I would guess an electrician could do this for $200-$300 maybe? Though with prices the way they are, who knows...

Thanks for the link! Plenty of room in the panel and it's on its own circuit if I decide to just repurpose the existing wiring.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
I had to patch a few small spots yesterday, and the last tub of patch I bought was all dried out and worthless. I decided to try setting-type drywall mud instead of keeping a tub of drying-type around to dry out before I needed it again. I'll never go back to the plastic tubs of drywall patch again.

I've got a small 3# bag of 5 minute lightweight, resealable so hopefully it'll be good next time I need it, and holy crap was it so much easier. Mixed maybe a cup of dry, added water a little at a time until the consistency was good, and patched up my 8 screw holes. An hour later, sand, wipe, and paint. Sanding was easier, shrinkage was negligible, and what would have been a two day process was an hour from start to finish.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PitViper posted:

I had to patch a few small spots yesterday, and the last tub of patch I bought was all dried out and worthless. I decided to try setting-type drywall mud instead of keeping a tub of drying-type around to dry out before I needed it again. I'll never go back to the plastic tubs of drywall patch again.

I've got a small 3# bag of 5 minute lightweight, resealable so hopefully it'll be good next time I need it, and holy crap was it so much easier. Mixed maybe a cup of dry, added water a little at a time until the consistency was good, and patched up my 8 screw holes. An hour later, sand, wipe, and paint. Sanding was easier, shrinkage was negligible, and what would have been a two day process was an hour from start to finish.

Hot mud is also stronger. For that reason alone it's worth using for any type of patching work.

PitViper
May 25, 2003

Welcome and thank you for shopping at Wal-Mart!
I love you!
Good to know. The 3# bag was also cheaper than every quart size tub of premix patch, so I don't know why I never thought to use it before.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PitViper posted:

Good to know. The 3# bag was also cheaper than every quart size tub of premix patch, so I don't know why I never thought to use it before.

The downsides are that it's not as convenient since you have to mix it and it doesn't sand as well as regular mud in a bucket. This isn't a big deal for patching and it sands (as in with sandpaper) just fine. What you can't really do with it is wet sponge "sanding", which matters a lot more if you're doing a whole room or something.

I'm very much "paper tape, bucket of heavy mud, then bucket of light mud" for large projects. But I'm on team self-adhesive fiberglass tape and hot mud for everything else.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Hot mud all day every day.

You can mix what you need, its cheaper, it dries quicker, its stronger, and it doesn't go bad with time. I've always seen bucket mud as something renters buy to get their security deposit back. When sanding tub mud, it always seems to be stickier or pill up if it hasn't COMPLETELY dried.

We bought our house last year and before we moved in I wanted to repaint the entire house. That included patching a lot of holes, fixing some problem areas, and patching up old light fixtures. Some areas got pretty large fixes. I think I might have used 1/4 of the bag that I bought and I was very liberal with the mud. Now if I come across any other things that need fixing, I can go grab a scoop and have it patched in a few minutes vs hoping a tub of wet mud hasn't solidified. It also allows you to be very liberal with it and ensure you're not being frugal and trying to use dirty mud.

Upgrade
Jun 19, 2021



Let's play a fun game.

We're getting quotes for painting! Curious at guesses of what they're coming in at.

The project:

* Painting about 900 sqft of interior space, including a 400 sqft room with 17 ft ceilings and a stairway. No trim or ceiling paint. A few cracks which need patching.
* Restaining a 300 sqft deck
* Stripping and repainting 14 exterior window frames, 7 of which are 20 feet up.

Quaint Quail Quilt
Jun 19, 2006


Ask me about that time I told people mixing bleach and vinegar is okay
Sorry for Necro I don't read the thread much..

For appliance reliability I use
https://blog.yaleappliance.com/

LawfulWaffle posted:

They're copper pipes, house is about 45 years old. Well, the leak from the bathroom was a copper pipe and it looked like it was in the middle of a stretch of pipe. Idk what the pipe from the sink was, it was the main drain. I forgot to mention that my garbage disposal cracked and would leak water into the under-sink cabinet, also in this time frame. I haven't had my water tested, I guess I could do that.
When my water main broke and I had it replaced with PEX the fellow said that copper lasts 40-60 years, (mine was 35) also that the brackets that hold the pipes to the studs were of dissimilar metals and would eventually corrode pinholes in then.

Short of replacing all my pipes someday, I'm just going to wait for them to leak, that's what homeowners insurance is for.

May be something to look into, you could see the brackets they used in my crawl space.


redreader posted:

I have an LG frontloader I inherited from the PO and it works great, but, it loving stinks. After doing the first load which came out stinky, I ran washer cleaner in it like twice in a row, bicarb in another wash, cleaned the front gasket, emptied the filter, etc etc. Now it's fine, mostly, but if you don't wash anything in it for about 4 days it gets stinky again. There's mold growing in the liner I can't get out (it's just black, but feels like the rest of the rubber, so it must be deep inside the liner). I run washer cleaner stuff in it once a month and poo poo, and it's still like that. The reason I'm telling you is that I googled it and one of the results had someone saying "so... all LG front loaders get stinky then, I take it?"
Mine doesn't stink but the door seal gets black eventually even if you air it properly. I did the same thing and tried everything in cleaning cycles and manual scrubbing but bleach was what finally worked. If the scrubbing is too hard I've seen people on YouTube take the whole gasket out and soak it overnight and that would get it, I just scrub with an old toothbrush and bath brush.

TheWevel
Apr 14, 2002
Send Help; Trapped in Stupid Factory

Upgrade posted:

Let's play a fun game.

We're getting quotes for painting! Curious at guesses of what they're coming in at.

The project:

* Painting about 900 sqft of interior space, including a 400 sqft room with 17 ft ceilings and a stairway. No trim or ceiling paint. A few cracks which need patching.
* Restaining a 300 sqft deck
* Stripping and repainting 14 exterior window frames, 7 of which are 20 feet up.

I'm having a larger deck stained and it's ~$800 including materials so I would guess you'll be around $2-2500 all in.

King Burgundy
Sep 17, 2003

I am the Burgundy King,
I can do anything!

Some quick sanity check advice needed.

Water is seeping up from the laminate wood in the kitchen. I believe I've traced it to the fridge water line. Seems pretty slow so not sure how long it has taken to get to this point. Besides the obvious plumber call to fix the leak and the need to speed up our planned move to tile in the kitchen, (tear out the laminate and replace it now instead of on the original schedule) is there anything else I should be thinking of doing here?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

In floor radiant heating?

King Burgundy
Sep 17, 2003

I am the Burgundy King,
I can do anything!

Hadlock posted:

In floor radiant heating?

Nope, nothing special like that going on.

Tricky Ed
Aug 18, 2010

It is important to avoid confusion. This is the one that's okay to lick.


King Burgundy posted:

Some quick sanity check advice needed.

Water is seeping up from the laminate wood in the kitchen. I believe I've traced it to the fridge water line. Seems pretty slow so not sure how long it has taken to get to this point. Besides the obvious plumber call to fix the leak and the need to speed up our planned move to tile in the kitchen, (tear out the laminate and replace it now instead of on the original schedule) is there anything else I should be thinking of doing here?

Make sure to put in a new valve for the fridge water supply (because your old one is probably wearing out) and put a water hammer arrestor on it (to help keep everything working longer).

If you do tile, make sure you aren't entombing your dishwasher by making the floor too high to get it out.

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Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Upgrade posted:

Let's play a fun game.

We're getting quotes for painting! Curious at guesses of what they're coming in at.

The project:

* Painting about 900 sqft of interior space, including a 400 sqft room with 17 ft ceilings and a stairway. No trim or ceiling paint. A few cracks which need patching.
* Restaining a 300 sqft deck
* Stripping and repainting 14 exterior window frames, 7 of which are 20 feet up.

Your costs are highly dependent on local labor costs. Do you live in rural Kentucky, or in Boston? For example.

I'd assume having that specced out around where I live would be $6k+.

e. is that 900 square feet of floor, e.g. all the walls adjacent to that, or 900 square feet of wall to paint?
Also are they just going to pressure wash those exterior frames, or are they going to actually scrape them, meaning they need scaffolding?

e2. I think regardless of your answers I'm gonna bump my guess up to $10k.

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