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some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Oh great, thanks — I’ll pop that on one of the starter bolts then.

Not the one that goes to batt+, for comedy clarity.

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cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
right.

battery positive goes from the battery to the solenoid under the opposite side panel then to the starter terminal.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
Perfect, I honestly think that’s everything I needed to know then, about cabling. The diagrams explained everything else. Right now the only thing in my way is that I’m actually scared flexing the cables when they’re this cold for fear of snapping or breaking them, so I guess this is a “next weekend” thing when we’re supposed to be positive.

Guys I am really excited — turning the key on the DRZ feels very imminent :ohdear:

knox_harrington
Feb 18, 2011

Running no point.

Will you be livestreaming the denouement?

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

knox_harrington posted:

Will you be livestreaming the denouement?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2XUBkzYybg

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
My bike came with a 2” lift that I plan on removing. Is a tank lift purely aesthetic or does it actually cool the heads of an air cooled engine? If so, is it worth the higher center of gravity? Or do neither of these things actually matter at all.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

epswing posted:

My bike came with a 2” lift that I plan on removing. Is a tank lift purely aesthetic or does it actually cool the heads of an air cooled engine? If so, is it worth the higher center of gravity? Or do neither of these things actually matter at all.

Search your heart

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Lol I have never heard of a tank lift

Coydog
Mar 5, 2007



Fallen Rib
It typically happens during spring break or mardi gras and no it doesn't cool heads at all.

Carteret
Nov 10, 2012


It's a look thing on Harleys. It's dumb.

(The PO did it on my old Sportster)

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


Coydog posted:

It typically happens during spring break or mardi gras and no it doesn't cool heads at all.

:lol:

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Whoops, I should have asked in the Cruiser thread :v: of course this makes no sense to any bike other than a LOUD PIPES CHOPPA.

Carteret posted:

It's a look thing on Harleys. It's dumb.

(The PO did it on my old Sportster)

Right, same. My PO also added teenie little rear shocks with effectively no travel. "The look" is for the rear to be as low as possible, the front to be high, the bars to be very high, and for your legs to be way forward. Like you're in a recliner with your arms outstretched, i.e. a toddler riding a big wheel.



Somewhere in this ridiculous mess is the claim that raising the tank allows more airflow over the heads, which is the one point that could've had some minute kernel of truth, which is why I asked.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

epswing posted:

Whoops, I should have asked in the Cruiser thread :v: of course this makes no sense to any bike other than a LOUD PIPES CHOPPA.

Right, same. My PO also added teenie little rear shocks with effectively no travel. "The look" is for the rear to be as low as possible, the front to be high, the bars to be very high, and for your legs to be way forward. Like you're in a recliner with your arms outstretched, i.e. a toddler riding a big wheel.



Somewhere in this ridiculous mess is the claim that raising the tank allows more airflow over the heads, which is the one point that could've had some minute kernel of truth, which is why I asked.

When you want a chopper but making a chopper sounds hard

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I wonder if anyone at any point in the chain of people (I assume there's more than one) making that claim even knows how you measure cylinder head temperature, let alone attempted to verify the idea that moving the tank, which btw isn't really anywhere near the heads on any sporty I've seen, has some kind of measurable effect.

Harley must be dumb as gently caress putting all those fins on the exposed barrel when they aren't gonna do anything, should've put them on the heads!!!

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Tank lifts were "a thing" in the SV world because the thought was that since the snorkel was in the front of the airbox, it was sucking hot air from the engine instead of cool air that could be coming from between the tank and frame.

At the end of the day, no one has managed to verify whether or not it makes a difference and it seems the only people who do it are people who track their bikes and people chasing numbers, so in summation:


Slavvy posted:

Search your heart

Razzled
Feb 3, 2011

MY HARLEY IS COOL
the "new" tuono's PO was from the "tank lift idiot" school of thought. it's on month 3 of being in the shop in the 5 months i've owned it. so there's that.

goddamnedtwisto
Dec 31, 2004

If you ask me about the mole people in the London Underground, I WILL be forced to kill you
Fun Shoe

Slavvy posted:

I wonder if anyone at any point in the chain of people (I assume there's more than one) making that claim even knows how you measure cylinder head temperature, let alone attempted to verify the idea that moving the tank, which btw isn't really anywhere near the heads on any sporty I've seen, has some kind of measurable effect.

Harley must be dumb as gently caress putting all those fins on the exposed barrel when they aren't gonna do anything, should've put them on the heads!!!

I can definitely see it being some bit of 50s drag racer wisdom that's now 9 layers of cargo culting deep and causes intense arguments among people who ride 17 miles a year.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

goddamnedtwisto posted:

I can definitely see it being some bit of 50s drag racer wisdom that's now 9 layers of cargo culting deep and causes intense arguments among people who ride 17 miles a year.

Yeah on an air cooled 1970's two stroke or similar bike with temperature management problems, I can see it making just enough of a difference that a shrewd racer would gain a slight jetting advantage, and therefore a very small (maybe 2-3km/h) top speed advantage - decisive in a race, vital when you've already exhausted every other possible avenue of gains and are climbing the slope of diminishing returns. On basically anything built in the last forty years it's just making your bike look idiotic for no reason.

I think these types of myths persist because people feel a sense of powerlessness when their bike breaks down despite being built by billion dollar corporations, so they have to tell themselves that the manufacturers are actually stupid and don't know one weird trick as a way of psychologically regaining control of the situation. Lifting the tank to make sure the heads don't overheat is a proactive action that makes you feel like you've achieved something; assembling the bike like normal and trusting harley not to be raging incompetents is comparatively passive and feels like putting your fate in the hands of a guy you never met.

FWIW the sportster example is particularly stupid because the sporty's heads are intentionally designed as big clunky heatsinks and aren't really intended to transmit heat directly into the air; cooling is instead handled by the barrels and engine oil. When modifying sportsters one of the first things you do is fit an oil cooler; when building a sporty engine it's better to start with an 883 because there's more meat around the barrel holes. Hell on buells the cylinder heat temp is measured off the rear head, yet the rear cylinder cooling fan and ram air scoop are placed such that they drag air across the barrels, the heads are completely surrounded by the frame yet nothing bad ever happens to them.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Mar 30, 2022

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


I think anyone claiming they do it for cooling is just in denial about how important aesthetics are to them. Like they can't admit that they did it because it makes the bike look prettier to them. Never mind that their whole scene is about looking fabulous and fierce, nah it's for cooling bro.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

My opinion on shade tree performance mods is until you can prove to me with data that it is actually better I can always make the argument that it may be making things worse. For example, you raise the tank and instead of it directing air directly towards the head it actually deflects the air away from the head just because of the way some component is shaped....chaos theory in effect. The argument could also be made that the tank mounted higher up means a higher CoG (bigger the tank, bigger the change) and that may have some unintended negative consequences on accelerating, stopping, and handling.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
it's definitely making things worse because it looks like poo poo

Captain McAllister
May 24, 2001


Electronics question - I'm replacing grips on a bike with heated grips (F800GS).

They're the type that use thin wires that sit in grooves in the insulating plastic grip (not the sticky pads).

Stock wire resistance is supposedly 2.8ohms/ft.

I've found 26ga Kanthal A1 wire that is 3.1ohms/ft.

Will the CANBUS freak out at that small of a difference?

Also, if this is the 'right' replacement wire, to hold it in place while I put the grips on (and to simplify any future changes), I'm going to cover over the wires with electrical tape with as few wraps as possible to make sure I don't block heat output.

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?

Renaissance Robot posted:

it's definitely making things worse because it looks like poo poo

Yeah I don't care what the benefits are, it makes the bike look like a big hunched over ant.

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


Strife posted:

Yeah I don't care what the benefits are, it makes the bike look like a big hunched over ant.



Or, if you flip your perspective, a weird robot bench pressing the handle bars.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Finger Prince posted:

Or, if you flip your perspective, a weird robot bench pressing the handle bars.

I don't see it. Please open the image in MS Paint and draw it.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Captain McAllister posted:

Electronics question - I'm replacing grips on a bike with heated grips (F800GS).

They're the type that use thin wires that sit in grooves in the insulating plastic grip (not the sticky pads).

Stock wire resistance is supposedly 2.8ohms/ft.

I've found 26ga Kanthal A1 wire that is 3.1ohms/ft.

Will the CANBUS freak out at that small of a difference?

Also, if this is the 'right' replacement wire, to hold it in place while I put the grips on (and to simplify any future changes), I'm going to cover over the wires with electrical tape with as few wraps as possible to make sure I don't block heat output.

you should be fine. when I replaced the stock heated grips and actual grips on my KTM I had no issues soldering some tusk heating elements to the heating element harness. I used some “copper” tape to fix the elements to the bars / grip tube. I’d recommend against electrical tape because it’d suck to have to redo the grip install if you find the tape insulates more than you want

Jazzzzz
May 16, 2002

Captain McAllister posted:

Electronics question - I'm replacing grips on a bike with heated grips (F800GS).

They're the type that use thin wires that sit in grooves in the insulating plastic grip (not the sticky pads).

Stock wire resistance is supposedly 2.8ohms/ft.

I've found 26ga Kanthal A1 wire that is 3.1ohms/ft.

Will the CANBUS freak out at that small of a difference?

Also, if this is the 'right' replacement wire, to hold it in place while I put the grips on (and to simplify any future changes), I'm going to cover over the wires with electrical tape with as few wraps as possible to make sure I don't block heat output.

interested to see how this goes b/c my default reaction is "it's BMW, of course the CANBUS will freak out"

Finger Prince
Jan 5, 2007


epswing posted:

I don't see it. Please open the image in MS Paint and draw it.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

:hmmyes: I see it.

KillHour
Oct 28, 2007


Strife posted:

Yeah I don't care what the benefits are, it makes the bike look like a big hunched over ant.



Did they put a bandana on it to specifically hide the ugly spot where the tank meets the frame?

If I saw that IRL, I'd assume they installed it wrong on accident or something.

Fifty Three
Oct 29, 2007

Finger Prince posted:

Or, if you flip your perspective, a weird robot bench pressing the handle bars.
oh my god lol

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

KillHour posted:

Did they put a bandana on it to specifically hide the ugly spot where the tank meets the frame?

:lol: loving hell

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?

KillHour posted:

Did they put a bandana on it to specifically hide the ugly spot where the tank meets the frame?

If I saw that IRL, I'd assume they installed it wrong on accident or something.

That was just one of the top GIS results for "lifted tank," but yes almost definitely. Yet another reason I don't understand why anyone does that because of how stupid it makes so much of the bike look.

Then again there could be 4 more pages in this thread on different stupid decisions that were apparently made while "customizing" that Sportster. I'm really, really surprised it has the stock exhaust and intake, though they're apparently spray painted black.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Bleeding the front brakes (dual disc) on my sporty, first time using this motion pro mini bleeder with a check valve https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0482

The MC is full, I’m working the brake lever and the fluid level is barely going down. Nothing but bubbles are coming out of the bleeder nipple, brake lever is sometimes firm, sometimes floppy. Been at it for 20 minutes.

Should I just keep pumping, and how much is enough to think something is wrong? Is the tool broken? Do I need to do something special given it’s a dual caliper system?

Edit: All 3 banjos are tight. I’m doing one side at a time (the other caliper bleeder is closed).

epswing fucked around with this message at 19:00 on Mar 31, 2022

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Shut bleed screw

Pump the lever until it firms up and hold it on

Open bleed screw, shut bleed screw, do not release the brake while the screw is open

Repeat this however long it takes to get the air out

Don't let the reservoir go below the low mark



I don't know how many times I have to say this to how many people: you do not need mechanical assistance to bleed brakes. You don't need a vacuum thing, you don't need a pump thing, you don't need any of that poo poo, you literally just need a plastic tube, a bottle for the fluid to go into and a spanner to turn the screw. It is quite literally the simplest and easiest way to bleed brakes, I have never seen a mechanical aid that makes it easier or faster. Build up pressure with the lever, release it with the bleeder. As long as you never release the lever while the nipple is open, or let the level drop too far, the air can only go one way.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
Ain't that the truth. I've only done it on a motorcycle twice but it's laughably easy do do alone with just a piece of clear hose so you can see the bubbles. On a car you need an assistant to pump the pedal, on a bicycle you need the little extra reservoir cup thing and also stretch your arms far apart when doing the rear caliper. Also maybe the syringe if things are completely dry to get the pumping action going. Moto brake bleeds are cake.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
The most overlooked part of bleeding your brakes (for me) is a nice and stable container for the bleeding hose to drain into, and a way to keep the hose from flopping around IMO. I have a vacuum bleeder and the only part of that kit I ever use now is the little reservoir with magnet which attaches to my frame. If I didn't have that I'd definitely get a mason jar with a hole in the lid just big enough to keep the bleed hose from escaping randomly.

The one time I didn't use a good container I think I was ready to snap by the fourth or fifth time the little silicone tube just kind of idly flopped out and trickled BF everywhere

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Slavvy posted:

I don't know how many times I have to say this to how many people: you do not need mechanical assistance to bleed brakes. You don't need a vacuum thing, you don't need a pump thing, you don't need any of that poo poo

But the website said it was the answer to ALL MY PROBLEMS :v:

I did abandon it and just use a wrench but why the gently caress is the rear MC on the other side of the brake pedal other side of the bike relative to the brake pedal hmmmmmm?

epswing fucked around with this message at 21:39 on Mar 31, 2022

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

The other side...?

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epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Err, sorry, I meant the MC is on the left side of the bike. With the brake pedal on the right side, you need a friend, or you get to awkwardly hug the seat while you pump/hold the pedal with one hand and crack/close the bleeder with the other.

This is the actual reason I was hoping some tool with a check valve would work.

epswing fucked around with this message at 21:41 on Mar 31, 2022

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