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Oh you mean the caliper. Yeah it's not ideal but that's what friends, families and children are for.
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Mar 31, 2022 21:42
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Sanity question. If I had done something just hilariously wrong when assembling a top end, like getting timing wrong, would that be evident immediately when I cranked the engine by hand? Like the fact that I can turn the engine over by hand (and subsequently with the starter, below) without anything going GRIND or CRUNCH is a good sign? Haven’t popped the spark plug in yet, that’s why the plug cap is bouncing up and down lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOuQgyxz_zw some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Mar 31, 2022 |
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Mar 31, 2022 22:27
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sounds good to me
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Mar 31, 2022 23:12
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Threw the plug in and there’s still no crunch crunch so I’m assuming everything is OK for now. Next question: Is this the old gasket still wedged in the ex. port? It took me like 15 minutes of head scratching wondering why the header doesn’t fit when I try to use the new gasket Suzuki gave me, before I even considered the silver stuff there might be the old gasket. The only other exhaust gasket I ever saw was on my Ninja 650 and those were very very obvious and very copper.  I even recorded another rambling video to post here to ask for advice but I’ll, uh, maybe wait on that. so yeah, if that is the old gasket, how the gently caress do I pry it out? I bought a stock DRZ400 exhaust to replace the Yoshimura I really dinged up while removing. I can always pop the Yoshi back on but this is probably the one I want to use. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 00:28 on Apr 1, 2022 |
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Apr 1, 2022 00:26
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some kinda jackal posted:
Do you have a set of picks? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07WSNV4XV/
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Apr 1, 2022 01:14
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Hmm, I have a handful of picks but I’m not really sure where I’d catch the gasket. Presumably I’d need to lever the gasket out but it seems like it’s just flush everywhere, no real spot for me to get the pick into. Hmm, I’ll investigate more tomorrow. Really wasn’t expecting that to be there.
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Apr 1, 2022 01:32
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It's soft as gently caress just stab it with a screwdriver
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Apr 1, 2022 01:55
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Oh huh, ok that was simpler than I expected. Guess I’m going gasket poking tomorrow. E: and by “gasket poking tomorrow” I mean “I’m getting out of bed right now, getting the jumpsuit on real quick and going gasket poking at 10pm” to great success. Well, mild success. The bolt that holds the exhaust in place is fine, but the nut on the top side was super rusty and already pretty rounded inside, so my hand tightening ended up rounding it off before I got a chance to torque it to proper specs. By hand it felt like it was “pretty darn tight” before it rounded so I’m going to just leave this as is while I assemble the rest of the bike. I’ll order a new bolt and nut just for my own sanity, but moving forward with what I have now and will replace them when they get in. So by my count, only the uhh.. front sprocket, chain, coolant drain hose, and clutch left to install. Oh and the swingarm bolt on the other side that I lost, then found again under my other bike, but haven’t had a chance to put on. Fingers crossed that I can fill it with liquids this weekend and fire up. Hopefully no leaks. I’m going to stay optimistic that everything is buttoned up right! some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Apr 1, 2022 |
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Apr 1, 2022 02:44
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I'll be the book keeper! I've got three bucks on the dollar for a valve timing catastrophe Five bucks on the dollar for ring issues or conrod knock Gets running but blows catastrophic smoke pays $10 Outside chance of a kick starter spontaneously reinstalling itself, leading to immediate catastrophe - $20otd
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Apr 1, 2022 04:38
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When I put my Monkey back together, I had one washer left over. It concerned me because the washer looked like a somewhat precision part and not just a washer you put on any bolt. Turns out it belonged in the clutch and was 100% required for the clutch to work.
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Apr 1, 2022 04:45
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Gimme  on "Putin shoots down a satellite in a fit of pique and the resulting Kessler cascade annihilates martytoofs garage"
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Apr 1, 2022 05:15
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Slavvy help, I just got my new tires and had the shop show me how to adjust the chain (like we agreed last year with the out of spec debacle). They literally told me to just feel it while sitting on it and that it's a bit too tight right now (which is what they set last time it was there, which if I recall was already out of spec towards being too loose?) Is this a legit way to tighten a chain? Cause I feel like Honda engineers set that range for a reason. I still don't know what to feel for either, it doesn't exactly "feel" tighter, it just moves further or not. He also didn't look for the tightest spot or anything.
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Apr 1, 2022 13:40
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Slavvy posted:I'll be the book keeper! No love for improper gasket surface dumping coolant into oil? Lump that in with blowing smoke for a combo. Optimistic but definitely steeling myself for some kind of weird happening 
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Apr 1, 2022 16:51
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SEKCobra posted:Slavvy help, I just got my new tires and had the shop show me how to adjust the chain (like we agreed last year with the out of spec debacle). They literally told me to just feel it while sitting on it and that it's a bit too tight right now (which is what they set last time it was there, which if I recall was already out of spec towards being too loose?) What do you want help with? I can't swim the ocean and slap the guy, and you already know how to adjust your chain the right way, I have no way of showing you what it should feel like but that's literally what the specs are for . Not much more I can do. Bike shop sucks, water wet, sky blue.
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Apr 1, 2022 18:05
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Slavvy posted:What do you want help with? I can't swim the ocean and slap the guy, and you already know how to adjust your chain the right way, I have no way of showing you what it should feel like but that's literally what the specs are for . Not much more I can do. Bike shop sucks, water wet, sky blue. I just want you to tell me that I'm not crazy and that is not how you get chain tension right, unless it is. Because that's how I felt standing in their workshop and them looking at me as if I am crazy for suggesting I measured the tension rather than just 'feel' for it.
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Apr 1, 2022 18:49
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I mean, I can't remember the last time I measured chain slack, I always do it by feel and eye because it's much much faster and I know exactly what it's meant to be like. The same way I don't measure throttle cable slack or steering clutch lever play even though there's specs for those if your brain is broken enough. But you're not me, and are probably a normal person without the psychic powers to get in my head, so the only way for you to 'know' it's right is by measuring.
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Apr 1, 2022 19:03
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Manufacturers also set bikes up for a certain height/weight of rider. I took my 701 SM in for service and asked a tech to double check my chain tension etc (I had just cleaned and tensioned it) and it felt too tight. We confirmed i was measuring the slack in the right spot the right way, then he double checked suspension sag with and without me on it, and after some fiddling around we decided that +10mm on the factory spec was the way to go.
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Apr 1, 2022 19:25
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HI! Say, i've a question and maybe someone can give me some advice. Ive got a 2019 Kawasaki z900rs cafe with 22k miles on it. The grey stripe is just vinyl over the white stripe. Overall in great shape, just needs the valves checked. And maybe a new chain.. and okay, the front disk is maybe slightly warped. I've also put a deposit on a 2022 xsr900, so i should really be getting rid of the z900. The dealer offered 5500 as a trade, but i see other cafes selling for 7-9000. But thats with low miles, like 3-4000. Should i just trade it and not deal with the valves and selling it? I can't find any of these for sale with more than 4000 miles or so, so i can't tell what it should sell for. Plus id need to put about 1000 into it before selling.. Here's the bike in question. It's been swell, but i test rode an MT09 and loved it. Just don't love the looks.. the xsr fixes that though. 
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Apr 1, 2022 19:34
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If you don't need the cash or space immediately just put it on craigslist for a dummy thicc price. Someone will pay it eventually.
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Apr 1, 2022 20:58
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Captain McAllister posted:Manufacturers also set bikes up for a certain height/weight of rider. Nope, this is wrong sorry. Your weight is irrelevant to the chain slack, as there's meant to be enough slack to account for it tightening with suspension travel; this is why dirt bikes have crazy slack looking chains. If you were getting an overly tight chain just sitting there, and it was adjusted correctly, then the bike is literally sitting on it's arse and you need to increase rear preload or make other setup changes so the geometry is all in the right place for your weight.
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Apr 1, 2022 21:03
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chains are slacked to accommodate the slight extension in sprocket to sprocket distance that occurs when the swingarm travels from below the plane where the front sprocket, swingarm pivot and rear sprocket are all parallel, to above it. The chain needs to be the longest when all three are in a straight line Nothing to do with weight
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Apr 1, 2022 22:29
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Has anyone ever made a bike where the front sprocket is somehow on the same axis as the swingarm pivot so that this isn't an issue? I can imagine some ways of doing it, but they all seem pretty dumb from an engineering standpoint, so I'm guessing Buell does it with their belts
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Apr 1, 2022 22:55
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Sagebrush posted:Has anyone ever made a bike where the front sprocket is somehow on the same axis as the swingarm pivot so that this isn't an issue? BMW(G450X)/Husqvarna(TE449) had a 450 enduro that utilizes this tech.
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Apr 1, 2022 23:03
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Sagebrush posted:Has anyone ever made a bike where the front sprocket is somehow on the same axis as the swingarm pivot so that this isn't an issue? This was a huge fixation in the seventies yeah, just another one weird trick that everyone became convinced would absolutely transform bike handling. You can do it by having spring loaded tensioners, or a linkage system coming off the swingarm, or even like this:  As usual, the miniscule improvement doesn't justify the massive increase in complexity, weight and other drawbacks. Nearly everything on bikes is a half assed not-ideal solution cause the 'ideal' solution usually breaks the rest of the bike. See also: front swingarms, monocoque frames and so on. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Apr 2, 2022 |
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Apr 1, 2022 23:23
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You notice by wear on the front sprocket if you totally gently caress up tightness vs rear suspension travel Vs load. (Yes 30+kg vs normal loads on a nx250 fucks poo poo up) Indications is very rapid adjustments needed and premature wear on the front sprocket. Your final drive set is a relatively cheap wear item that is easily swapped. A sprocket + chain swap is not rocket science to do yourself. Random fun poo poo is POs welding the front sprocket on, but that is luckily not something any sane person has to worry About. (Yes I check that on new bikes I buy now, I check the front sprocket or no sale) Supradog fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Apr 1, 2022 |
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Apr 1, 2022 23:27
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Supradog posted:You notice by wear on the front sprocket if you totally gently caress up tightness vs rear suspension travel Vs load. (Yes 30+kg vs normal loads on a nx250 fucks poo poo up) Yeah, that was part of my issue. Lots of people have experienced a leak from the seal behind the front sprocket due to incorrect chain tension. Basically, the chain pulls the output shaft against the seal and it leaks. The stock springs are set up for 165-190lb ish riders. I'm 250lbs. I'm not trying to start an argument, but I don't see how more weight doesn't equate to more flex of the swing arm and an increase in chain tension. If the proper tension keeps the chain parallel with the sprockets, then what happens if you hit a big dip in the road and the swing arm moves up further? Does that not momentarily increase the tension? Captain McAllister fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Apr 2, 2022 |
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Apr 2, 2022 02:42
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It really depends on the specific geometry but the 'tightest' swingarm position is whatever results in the longest distance between the sprockets. Your weight is usually irrelevant because the designer put enough slack into the chain spec to account for most of the swingarm travel. If you're in the suspension travel zone where the bike is squatting constantly, you're either carrying a big load all the time, or you need to increase preload/spring rate so the bike isn't so sunken down in the rear.
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Apr 2, 2022 03:34
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Captain McAllister posted:Yeah, that was part of my issue. Lots of people have experienced a leak from the seal behind the front sprocket due to incorrect chain tension. Basically, the chain pulls the output shaft against the seal and it leaks. The thing to understand here is that your weight is a second-order influence on the chain tension. The chain tension is affected by the geometry of the swingarm and the sprockets. Full stop. If the front sprocket was in line with the swingarm axle/pivot, there would be no change in tension as the swingarm pivoted around, and therefore no change in tension ever -- because unless there is catastrophic damage to the swingarm that causes it to bend or something, there is no way the distance between the two sprockets could ever change. You could put 1000 pounds on the bike and squeeze the suspension to its stops and the chain tension would not change. Make sense? In most bikes, the front sprocket is not in line with the swingarm axle. This means (in most setups) that the sprockets are a little further apart when the swingarm is at its highest position, and closer together when it's lower. In turn, this means the chain is tighter when the suspension is compressed (putting the swingarm at its highest position) and looser when the suspension is unloaded. If you are a big fat guy, you will compress the suspension more than a skinny little guy does. That will in turn put more tension on the chain in normal riding, yes. However, the correct response to this situation is to realize that the suspension is more loaded than it's supposed to be. You have less available travel, the bike rides lower, and yes, the chain is tighter than it would usually be in normal riding. Loosening the chain is a cheap fix to one part of this problem -- but not the correct fix, and not to everything. If you loosen the chain, sure, now in normal riding the chain tension is normal, and you are less likely to cause damage to the countershaft seals. But what if you unload the chain by going over a speed bump? What if a lighter rider rides the bike? You've loosened the chain, making it more likely to skip or slip off. And you haven't addressed the geometry or suspension travel problems caused by your weight. The correct way to handle a heavy rider is to respring the bike for the weight, or at least to adjust the preload of the rear shock. This will keep the suspension at the correct position when loaded with the heavy rider, addressing all of the issues simultaneously. You can set the chain tension normally and it will work normally, because the stiffer/preloaded spring is dealing with the weight before it has a chance to move the swingarm.
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Apr 2, 2022 06:02
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Any specific oil I should use after reassembling my engine? I keep reading you’re not supposed to use synthetic, something about having rings seat better, I can’t really make out the real argument for or against. I didn’t really do a rebuild, I just slapped a dirty existing top end onto a used bottom end so tbh I’m not sureI consider this a rebuild in any sense other than I preformed the actual task of rebuilding from parts. Cylinder wasn’t honed, etc. I guess the closest I came to changing the setup was to soak and clean the carbon off my piston head. I’m going to approach this as “its a drz, it’s bulletproof, it’s a worn engine” and dump the same MOTUL in as I would have in the pre-wrecked motor when I oil it up tomorrow, unless someone gives me a good reason not to.
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Apr 2, 2022 16:20
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Its a drz. throw some cheap rotella in it for "break in". change it at 500 miles. and again at 1000. Check the oil tank screen at both intervals for swarf. At 1500 or so, convert to whatever syn and send it. Motul is too fancy for a home depot bucket's worth of random used parts making stock power.
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Apr 2, 2022 18:53
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I throw it in my Ninja too so I just have a big jug on standby at all times 
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Apr 2, 2022 19:02
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My used bike only came with one key and it's been on my mind I should see about getting a spare made. Problem is, I don't have the key number, and looking around online they claim it's a requirement. Anyone gone through getting spares made in a situation like this, or will it end up with having to replace the ignition? 2020 Ninja 400 if that makes a big difference.
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Apr 3, 2022 16:53
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RightClickSaveAs posted:My used bike only came with one key and it's been on my mind I should see about getting a spare made. Problem is, I don't have the key number, and looking around online they claim it's a requirement. Anyone gone through getting spares made in a situation like this, or will it end up with having to replace the ignition? 2020 Ninja 400 if that makes a big difference. The key number/code may be on the ignition itself (I know this was true in the past for the 80's and 90's bikes I've rebuilt, not sure if this is still the case) if it's not got any fancy electronics in it. If there's electronics in the key and you need the code to get the key programmed, you'll have to go to a dealer with the VIN. Also if there's no electronic locking in the key, you should be able to just get a blank and take it to a locksmith...
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Apr 3, 2022 18:24
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Even if it's an immobiliser key your locksmith may be able to duplicate it. The key code will be written on the ignition barrel, or they can clone the key you've got but this isn't ideal. Or you can call the manufacturer and ask them what the key code is.
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Apr 3, 2022 19:10
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You can also just buy a blank of the right type on ebay, glue it to your old key with super glue, and file it into the right shape. Or you can do this with a blank you made yourself with a CNC machine. I did this twice because I am insane
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Apr 3, 2022 19:30
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Sagebrush posted:You can also just buy a blank of the right type on ebay, glue it to your old key with super glue, and file it into the right shape. Or you can do this with a blank you made yourself with a CNC machine. I did this twice because I am insane This, but just go to a local locksmith. They will take your key and blank and mess with it, walk out and fiddle with your bike lock a bit, go back in and adjust, then go back out, and repeat. In the end you'll have a good key you don't have to stress about.
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Apr 3, 2022 22:02
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When braking for a turn, are you supposed to completely roll off the throttle or is it ok to have some "maintenance throttle" while braking? I ask because I have a 2018 ninja 400 and the throttle can be a little snatchy when first cracking the throttle open and wondering if not closing the throttle all the way is an ok way to prevent the bike from jerking during a turn or should I just be smoother with the throttle?
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Apr 3, 2022 22:25
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Nah don't do that, that is a technique that has value in certain times and places but not on the road on a learner bike. The key to avoiding that jerk is to use appropriately high revs/low gear, and just get on the throttle as early as possible. The longer you coast and wait because you're afraid, the worse it is when it actually happens because you're losing rpm and gaining lean angle in the mean time, while the bike flops onto the front tire so when you do open it, the resultant pitching and wobbling scares you further. Try this: get all your braking done well before the turn, and go to a steady throttle before you've even started turning. Once you can do that consistently you can start bringing the braking later into the corner and seeing what the bike's happy medium is. Another thing to consider: that jerk feels big and scary but in reality it's like 10hp hitting the back wheel, you'll never ever lose traction from the initial throttle opening unless your setup is dire or grip conditions are on the level of ice or loose gravel. In all likelihood you are braking far too much, which is common for learners. I rode a ninja 400 recently in anger and honestly, a light brush of the brake is all that was necessary even for the slower corners, most of the time just modulating the throttle and focusing on the right lines (ie the stuff to think about when learning) is enough. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 22:41 on Apr 3, 2022 |
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Apr 3, 2022 22:39
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Sounds good. Thanks for the input.
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Apr 3, 2022 23:09
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| # ? May 16, 2024 08:05 |
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Sweet thanks for all the key suggestions, will look for a locksmith nearby!Slavvy posted:I rode a ninja 400 recently in anger
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Apr 3, 2022 23:36
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