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I feel like the individual compressors probably already have their own internal check valves? I don't have any experience with air systems, but I'd be mildly surprised if they didn't, since then the air would leak out when the motor is off. Check-valve-like behavior seems inherent in a piston compressor. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Apr 2, 2022 |
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Apr 2, 2022 16:17
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I had dual compressors for my blaster for a while, it worked but kind of a PITA because they each needed to be on their own 15a circuit plus the dust extractor also needed its own because it was too much to share with either compressor. Lot of extension cords.
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Apr 2, 2022 16:24
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ryanrs posted:I feel like the individual compressors probably already have their own internal check valves? I don't have any experience with air systems, but I'd be mildly surprised if they didn't, since then the air would leak out then the motor is off. They have reed valves in the head but that might not prevent them from “fighting” each other if they’re both running.
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Apr 2, 2022 16:25
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But isn't fighting a 2nd compressor equivalent to fighting e.g. the static pressure inside a tank?
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Apr 2, 2022 16:28
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Safety Dance posted:As for the drain, I doubt it got drained more than once a week. That's probably sufficient for home shop use.
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Apr 2, 2022 17:45
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PBCrunch posted:It took me three trips to the hardware store for brass fittings and bits of pipe, but I got the automatic drain valve hooked up to my air compressor. If you've got it hooked up to a smart device, couldn't you use something like a cron job? Have it go off once a day at 6 pm. Or once a week on Mondays at 10 am when everyone is either working or at school. Are you using it super heavily on a daily basis? If not, refilling it after draining it is probably a good chunk of all its use.
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Apr 3, 2022 05:28
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I acquired this Snap-on torque wrench from my father in law today. The clicking feels like it's in generally the right range but it was sometimes slipping from forward to reverse when applying the torque. I opened it up and noticed some of the teeth in the ratchet head had been chipped off. Is it possible to replace this part of the ratchet head and/or would I just be wasting money on this thing? 
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Apr 3, 2022 08:23
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Should be able to get the ratchet head parts from Snap-On in a rebuild kit. Or see if you can ship it in for a rebuild, and if they'll check the calibration. Looks like a very nice split-beam torque wrench though!
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Apr 3, 2022 13:58
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It is highly likely snapon will rebuild it or replace it for you.
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Apr 3, 2022 14:55
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slidebite posted:If you drain it more than once a week, you're doing it more than 90% of the pros. Probably 99% unless you change once a week to ever.
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Apr 3, 2022 15:32
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Uncle Enzo posted:If you've got it hooked up to a smart device, couldn't you use something like a cron job? Have it go off once a day at 6 pm. Or once a week on Mondays at 10 am when everyone is either working or at school. If you use a smart device, go for a reputable (read: expensive) one. I've had terrible luck with smart devices. My experience is that they run fine unattended for a few weeks or months, and then stop running altogether, or have bad behavior in the face of brownouts, daylight savings, cosmic rays, overflows, whatever. For something to perform a safety-critical task when you're not looking, you'd better be able to trust it.
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Apr 3, 2022 23:10
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HolHorsejob posted:If you use a smart device, go for a reputable (read: expensive) one. I've had terrible luck with smart devices. My experience is that they run fine unattended for a few weeks or months, and then stop running altogether, or have bad behavior in the face of brownouts, daylight savings, cosmic rays, overflows, whatever. For something to perform a safety-critical task when you're not looking, you'd better be able to trust it. It's an air compressor, not the boiler at the Overlook Hotel. I was talking to someone about how I had a bunch of orange water come out the drain because I hadn't adjusted to the humidity in Atlanta, and he responded with a story about how a shop he used to work at thought their compressor was busted until someone thought to open the drain valve for the first time in years. They had gallons of water come out.
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Apr 4, 2022 01:10
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Reminds me of my parents air compressor. It's very small, almost only used for filling tires like 4 times a year. But I would drain the water after every use, a little bit would shoot out with air pressure behind it. Except that the tank is pretty round and they put the plug on a slight angle. After like ten years, I decided to, like, tilt the tank and about 1/2 cup of water just poured out of there.
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Apr 4, 2022 01:19
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What’s a good creeper? My FIL killed my roto-moulded one and I’d like something that will last me a while - my last two creepers have both broken the casters out.  The one prior to this was steel and a friend broke that one. I’m really not sure how people keep killing my creepers but clearly I need something idiot proof.
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Apr 4, 2022 03:57
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I've heard a lot of amazing things about the Bone Creepers, but have not had the time or cash to buy one.
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Apr 4, 2022 05:36
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You can parallel multiple compressors without external check valves. I read it in a compressed air manual, maybe Atlas Copco's but not 100% on that being the source. I'll dig up the reference if you want, though.
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Apr 4, 2022 06:05
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Advent Horizon posted:What’s a good creeper? My FIL killed my roto-moulded one and I’d like something that will last me a while - my last two creepers have both broken the casters out. Take metal plates, put longer screws in and screw those metal plates above and below the plastic. Will probably never break out again.
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Apr 4, 2022 09:50
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taqueso posted:You can parallel multiple compressors without external check valves. I read it in a compressed air manual, maybe Atlas Copco's but not 100% on that being the source. I'll dig up the reference if you want, though.
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Apr 4, 2022 15:09
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Uncle Enzo posted:If you've got it hooked up to a smart device, couldn't you use something like a cron job? Have it go off once a day at 6 pm. Or once a week on Mondays at 10 am when everyone is either working or at school. Advent Horizon posted:What’s a good creeper? My FIL killed my roto-moulded one and I’d like something that will last me a while - my last two creepers have both broken the casters out. HolHorsejob posted:If you use a smart device, go for a reputable (read: expensive) one. I've had terrible luck with smart devices. My experience is that they run fine unattended for a few weeks or months, and then stop running altogether, or have bad behavior in the face of brownouts, daylight savings, cosmic rays, overflows, whatever. For something to perform a safety-critical task when you're not looking, you'd better be able to trust it. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:14 on Apr 4, 2022 |
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Apr 4, 2022 17:08
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slidebite posted:You can, but the issue is without the pressure switches being exactly the samethey won't be one will do most of the work. True, but if you flow enough air to need more than one, as you drop below each compressors turn-on point they'll also come on. Ideally you'd have all of them run off contactors from one pressure switch, but it'll still work either way.
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Apr 4, 2022 20:00
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Something that grinds my gears: battery chargers without good wall mount provisions. I have two Kobalt 40V chargers with no wall mount holes at all. The warranty is expired so I opened the chargers, drilled holes in through the bottom, ran wafer-head screws through the holes into a piece of plywood*, covered the screws with a cut up piece of old cutting board material, then put the chargers back together. I have an old Hitachi 12V charger for a drill/driver combo kit with the same omission. Grumble grumble. Addendum to my smart switch/plug chatter above. I go out of my way to avoid smart devices that require access to "the cloud." The only things in my house that connect to the cloud are the garage door opener and the thermostat. Both work just fine without internet access. I have a Z-wave backup setup for remote access to the garage door. All my cameras use RTSP to a Zoneminder setup and have their internet access blocked at the router. * The bottom of the charger had ~1/4" standoffs between the bottom of the charger PCB and the surface of the bottom of the charger.
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Apr 5, 2022 15:45
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PBCrunch posted:Something that grinds my gears: battery chargers without good wall mount provisions. I have two Kobalt 40V chargers with no wall mount holes at all. The warranty is expired so I opened the chargers, drilled holes in through the bottom, ran wafer-head screws through the holes into a piece of plywood*, covered the screws with a cut up piece of old cutting board material, then put the chargers back together. I have an old Hitachi 12V charger for a drill/driver combo kit with the same omission. Grumble grumble. That's weird. Kobalt 24v and 80v chargers both have hanging provisions. I wonder why they left it off the 40v chargers.
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Apr 5, 2022 22:36
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I want a 7/32" Allen key to keep on my keyring. Are there any other options besides ones with the big loops on the end? Or am I going to have to make my own? I don't need a whole set, and I just want something compact to fit on my keyring.
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Apr 6, 2022 04:12
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briefcasefullof posted:I want a 7/32" Allen key to keep on my keyring. Are there any other options besides ones with the big loops on the end? Or am I going to have to make my own? I don't need a whole set, and I just want something compact to fit on my keyring. https://www.mcmaster.com/allen-keys/ https://www.mcmaster.com/allen-keys/l-keys-9/ You'll need to find a couple other things to make it worth the shipping, should be no problem. looking at that, now I want the 28" long, 2" key. LightRailTycoon fucked around with this message at 04:26 on Apr 6, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 04:21
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Something must not be loading or I'm not seeing it because all I'm seeing are standard L-shaped keys.
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Apr 6, 2022 05:00
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Buy a set, then throw away all the not-7/32" ones. If you search Amazon for 'allen wrench keychain' you'll get about a hundred results, take your pick.
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Apr 6, 2022 09:17
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briefcasefullof posted:Something must not be loading or I'm not seeing it because all I'm seeing are standard L-shaped keys. I think I misread your question.
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Apr 6, 2022 12:57
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Are you just looking for a 7/32 crash bar key? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SWPW2WR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_88XQCX4V9E7YFTQ70KDG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Apr 6, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 14:36
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Yeah. I was just wondering if there was something better for a keyring. No biggie E: Bought a key bit for a drill that the reviews say is made of soft metal. Going to drill through it and put it on my keys. briefcasefullof fucked around with this message at 21:28 on Apr 7, 2022 |
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Apr 6, 2022 18:55
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PitViper posted:Should be able to get the ratchet head parts from Snap-On in a rebuild kit. Or see if you can ship it in for a rebuild, and if they'll check the calibration. Looks like a very nice split-beam torque wrench though! I talked to customer service and a rebuild kit for the ratchet head was only $15, with free shipping! Gonna rebuild the head and then hopefully find somewhere local to check the calibration.
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Apr 7, 2022 05:03
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 I need to remove the trailing arm bushings from my 2000 Toyota Sienna minivan. The service manual calls them 'rear axle support bushing'. It's the pivot point of the rear suspension. My bushings are mega-trashed, so I think there is just the metal shell that needs to be extracted. Would attacking this with a die grinder and a carbide burr do what I want? I know it's probably not as good as a real bushing-puller kit, but I have a brand new die grinder just sitting here...
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Apr 8, 2022 03:09
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If they're super trashed you may be able to just pull the rubber out, or use a drill bit to walk it out (there are videos on YouTube.). If not you can burn it out but it reeks and makes a mess. Once you have everything out but the outer sleeve you can use a hacksaw or sawzall to cut most of the way through the outer sleeve then a chisel and hammer to collapse it on the cut and it'll just pull out. Pressing the new one in gets interesting, usually a balljoint press with some funky adapter games and maybe iron pipe nipples and fittings from the hardware store will do it.
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Apr 8, 2022 04:56
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I don't think there is any rubber at all. I can definitely see daylight through the bushing. Quite a lot of daylight. So that's 1 vote for cutting it with a sawzall, not a a die grinder? There's also the trick of welding a bead inside the sleeve to shrink it. (But there are severe penalties if you over-penetrate.)
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Apr 8, 2022 05:14
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A die grinder will work, if you want an excuse to buy one, don't let me stop you. But a sawzall is what I've always used.
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Apr 8, 2022 06:17
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Is the bushing poly or rubber? I’ve never had luck burning out rubber bushings - it just seems to get harder.
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Apr 8, 2022 07:15
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I got the upper control arm rear axle bushings out of my fox body trailing arms with a hydraulic press and some patience. Then clean up with a wire wheel. They were about 25 years old at the time. gently caress burning rubber.
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Apr 8, 2022 07:44
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If you've got a good sized air compressor, an air hammer can make quick work of it.
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Apr 8, 2022 07:52
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Hacksaw to cut it then hammer and chisel. Or air chisel and sawzall.
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Apr 8, 2022 11:41
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in the past I've drilled holes in the rubber and hacked the centre of the bushing out. then cut and remove the outer shell. I guess you don't really need to remove the inner, just create enough space for a blade to cut the outer shell.
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Apr 8, 2022 13:00
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This is the trick I was talking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Li3RfCqoiJs
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Apr 8, 2022 18:04
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