Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Funzo posted:

X-Post from the Legion thread:

Maybe move the light farther away from the mini? looks slightly washed out, dark background seems like a nice contrast though.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Funzo posted:

X-Post from the Legion thread:

god drat that's nice, especially the scales

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I slap a gloss coat and then two coats of matte over the majority of my gaming minis, just as the Good Lord intended :colbert:

:hmmyes:

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Funzo posted:

X-Post from the Legion thread:

you could frame the picture a tiny bit better to remove all the negative space, but that's my only suggestion from this subtle call for help on pictures

edit: feedback on the model: Looks very textbook like the boxart and accurate to the source, fantastic. love it.

Spanish Manlove fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Apr 12, 2022

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I painted a half squad of breachers today then made some terrain, ho ho ho

jassi007
Aug 9, 2006

mmmmm.. burger...
Varnish, matte, gloss, or both. Goobertown did two videos about his. He gets his hands all nasty with funyons, and then moves a bunch of models hundreds of times.

First, does varnish do anything? (yes) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QprguyGPE50

Second, any real difference between matte and gloss (iirc, no) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hRYhns1h3Q

I use almost exclusively matte varnish and haven't noticed any issues. I primary use Testors Dullcote or airbrush Vallejo Mecha matte. I use gloss to give certain things a shine, or to help apply transfers.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 42 hours!
When I first got back into mini painting in the early 2000s, I'd heard all over the 'net that you varnish by starting with a gloss coat, firstly to help with transfers/decals where applicable (and a second coat after the transfer's set, though that's just over the area where the transfer went, not necessarily over the entire model); and secondly because after putting a couple of coats of matte over the model (and repainting with the appropriate gloss or satin varnish over any areas where a different finish is desired), supposedly if the matte varnish begins to wear off, it will reveal the glossy coat underneath and you know it's time to re-apply the matte varnish.

Is this just a mini painter's old wives tale or superstition? More than likely, the "gloss" being talked about here is probably from finger oils rubbing off onto the matte coat (and thus making the matte shiny), rather than the matte varnish rubbing off completely. However, it's what I've always done, and barring something like trying to spray varnish outside when it's humid, it's never caused me any problems for all the years I've been doing it.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
tbh is doens;t matter which kind of varnish you use, just that any kind of varnish will provide some layer of protection against your greasy nerd fingers

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 42 hours!

Spanish Manlove posted:

tbh is doens;t matter which kind of varnish you use, just that any kind of varnish will provide some layer of protection against your greasy nerd fingers

Well it depends a little bit which one ya use, unless you want all your space mans/fantasy rangers/hell demons/muddy WW2 soldiers to look like they just got done getting washed and waxed at the car wash :v:

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
The main advantage of Gloss then Matte is that Gloss is a clear layer that doesn't obfuscate your paint so you slap it all over for protection then you can spray matte selectively on the parts that you don't want to be shiny but you don't have to worry about desaturating your paint with too much mattem

Wolfsbane
Jul 29, 2009

What time is it, Eccles?

Grizzled Patriarch posted:

Semi-related question on the topic of varnishes - I have a dumb idea kicking around in my head to make blood-splattered dice for my Orks, but I'm not sure how feasible it would be. I'm thinking of something basic like some transparent red ink flicked on with the toothbrush bristle method so that the effect is subtle and doesn't make the dice hard to read, but would this be enough to potentially mess with the results of the dice? Can't imagine that a few flecks of ink would do anything in terms of weight or texture, but I have no idea how minute the tolerances actually are. I imagine I'd have to varnish them too, but again I can't imagine a thin layer applied evenly would cause any problems.

Just don't want to accidentally be making weighted dice or something.

Unless you're buying professional craps dice or flicking on a load of enamel, adding paint isn't going to significantly affect the fairness of your dice.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
GW had unsanded down sprue sticking out of their official Necron dice. Paint is fine.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

The only reason I use matte varnish is because I love having an ultra-matt finish on my display models.

lenoon
Jan 7, 2010

Sydney Bottocks posted:

I slap a gloss coat and then two coats of matte over the majority of my gaming minis, just as the Good Lord intended :colbert:

Verily and if the lord did not want it this way would he have given us dullcote?

Checkmate atheists

Nebalebadingdong
Jun 30, 2005

i made a video game.
why not give it a try!?
I think matte varnish is fragile while gloss varnish is bullet proof. So gloss first for protection and then matte varnish over it take away the shine (and reapply if you actually game so much that the matte varnish chips off)

At least that's my understanding

Aranan
May 21, 2007

Release the Kraken
I'd welcome suggestions on basing ideas here. I finished up (aside from endless touch ups) my test model for Custodes. I was originally going to attempt some kind of white marble, but I don't think that would contrast well enough with all the silver and also I have no idea how to do marble. Maybe some deep brown dirt and a boat load of the greenery/flowers from Gamers Grass? Some kind of black volcanic sand? Red mars dirt?



Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Brent did an experiment in a goobertown video where he varnished minis in various ways and handled them for a day with abhand covered in funion grease and iirc his conclusion is that matte and gloss - when sprayed - protect about the same. Brushing the varnish on I think gloss was the winner.

However, going gloss then matte gives a visual indicator that your grubby goon fingats have eaten through the top layer of varnish.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Aranan posted:

I'd welcome suggestions on basing ideas here. I finished up (aside from endless touch ups) my test model for Custodes. I was originally going to attempt some kind of white marble, but I don't think that would contrast well enough with all the silver and also I have no idea how to do marble. Maybe some deep brown dirt and a boat load of the greenery/flowers from Gamers Grass? Some kind of black volcanic sand? Red mars dirt?





Personally I'd go dark with these guys as a contrast to the silver, I would worry that any deep colour would draw the eye down. So maybe a real dark brown dirt and some faded/dead grass? Or volcanic sand/ash wastes? My basic quick and cheap go-to for that is glue down sand/rocks, paint it black then a heavy drybrush of a dark grey then a light drybrush of a light grey/possibly up to an ivory, and an earthshade wash over the rocks (or over the whole lot if I think the drybrush came up too bright). Add skulls/tufts/cork land forms/assorted other basing gribble to taste/visual interest.

DressCodeBlue
Jun 15, 2006

Professional zombie impersonator.
Any American goons seen Speedpaints in the wild, yet? I pre-ordered a set from a local shop and haven't heard anything.

Count Thrashula
Jun 1, 2003

Death is nothing compared to vindication.
Buglord

DressCodeBlue posted:

Any American goons seen Speedpaints in the wild, yet? I pre-ordered a set from a local shop and haven't heard anything.

Yeah, both of my local shops have the starter set available (east Pennsylvania)

The mega set isn't out til later this year I think?

Desfore
Jun 8, 2011

Confirmed at least one furry on the Smash team
I heard there was an accident in shipping, which means availability of the first wave will be spotty.

FishFood
Apr 1, 2012

Now with brine shrimp!

DressCodeBlue posted:

Any American goons seen Speedpaints in the wild, yet? I pre-ordered a set from a local shop and haven't heard anything.

The store I go to got the starter set in (and promptly sold out) but the mega set and full line haven't come in yet. Street date was March 26 for the full line, but it apparently always takes a while for the distributors to get non-GW stuff out there. I reserved one of the mega sets and I'm keen to get my hands on it.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

DressCodeBlue posted:

Any American goons seen Speedpaints in the wild, yet? I pre-ordered a set from a local shop and haven't heard anything.

Canadian here, grabbed the Megaset online.

Can't imagine it's not available down south if you dig around

PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
On Varnish:
A lot of the "Varnish" suggestions are really, really old. From the days when everyone was painting on pewter. What you need to do to protect paint on pewter can vary significantly from what you need to do to protect paint on a plastic miniature.

For metals, the extra varnish steps make sense because anything that adds a barrier against your paint chipping and exposing bare metal is important.

For plastic or resin, which paint and primer are more likely to want to 'stick' to, I think as long as you're using a primer and varnishing at the end you're probably fine.


DressCodeBlue posted:

Any American goons seen Speedpaints in the wild, yet? I pre-ordered a set from a local shop and haven't heard anything.

I got the mega set off Amazon without issue.

DressCodeBlue
Jun 15, 2006

Professional zombie impersonator.
Thanks, all! I did get the megaset, so it's probably a distributor problem.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I see Vallejo has some pigment binder (and I see disappointing results from iso/varnish on youtube) so is it worth it to get some?

Next question, can I just make it myself? What about watered down PVA?

Saltpowered
Apr 12, 2010

Chief Executive Officer
Awful Industries, LLC

PoptartsNinja posted:

On Varnish:
A lot of the "Varnish" suggestions are really, really old. From the days when everyone was painting on pewter. What you need to do to protect paint on pewter can vary significantly from what you need to do to protect paint on a plastic miniature.

For metals, the extra varnish steps make sense because anything that adds a barrier against your paint chipping and exposing bare metal is important.

For plastic or resin, which paint and primer are more likely to want to 'stick' to, I think as long as you're using a primer and varnishing at the end you're probably fine.

I got the mega set off Amazon without issue.

Mega sets are sold out most places now but you can get a starter off Amazon and other places.

Owlbear Camus
Jan 3, 2013

Maybe this guy that flies is just sort of passing through, you know?



Not promoting my Twitter just the easiest way to host from mobile.

I continue to be pretty pleased with Speedpaints and need to really drill down and start working my backlog of Star Warriors and ASOIF guys.

https://twitter.com/TheGr8Aspie/status/1514634126741196812?s=20&t=j8DZ9vGz2kCOluSPtQEulA

E: I got the mega set from my FLGS but I put in a pre-order as soon as I knew about it.

Owlbear Camus fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Apr 14, 2022

Calhanol
Apr 27, 2010
As someone who wants to start the hobby. Speedpaints have tempted me quite a bit, especially on the whites and blacks since I have heard how hard they are. But I feel I should go for the Army Painter Mega set instead, which has paints, metallics and shades and start from there, since I can do more details. Even if it's harder initially, the skill ceiling seems much higher with normal acrylics.

Is this a good idea or should I start off simpler than that? I have 100+ minatures from Star Wars Imperial Assault I wish to paint soon, once I have the money and time, so one big pack would be a good investment I feel.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
Nah, just get the colors you need piecemeal rather than buying the big set. Then expand as needed. It doesn't make sense to have a billion shades of green when you're painting stormtroopers on tattooing, but when you want to start painting ewoks then you might consider a green or two.

Honestly the little starter kit that's just the simple rainbow is perfect for your needs to get going. Don't get the mega set. Then buy some legit good metallics from Vallejo Metal Color etc

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Calhanol posted:

As someone who wants to start the hobby. Speedpaints have tempted me quite a bit, especially on the whites and blacks since I have heard how hard they are. But I feel I should go for the Army Painter Mega set instead, which has paints, metallics and shades and start from there, since I can do more details. Even if it's harder initially, the skill ceiling seems much higher with normal acrylics.

Is this a good idea or should I start off simpler than that? I have 100+ minatures from Star Wars Imperial Assault I wish to paint soon, once I have the money and time, so one big pack would be a good investment I feel.

Okay, I havent used the speed paints, but I have used a lot of contrast paints (GWs version of a similar concept) and dont get me wrong, I love them to bits but... I'm honestly not sure how much I would recommend them for a beginner. They were kind of sold as a quick and easy solution ("one thick coat") but it turns out they are more complicated that that. From what I've seen speedpaints have some of the same drawbacks; #1 Wild differences in opacity and viscosity between different paints. Now this is actually universal across most paint brands to be fair, but with contrasts/speedpaints this also contributes to drawback #2 which is; They make it much trickier to fix mistakes. As a beginner you dont have great brush control, so you are gonna get some paint in the wrong places. With regular paints, following a regular workflow (basecoat/wash/highlight or basecoat/highlight/wash, whichever) its not that big a deal, you get some of the black from the pants on the shirt you did blue, you can just slap a bit of blue over top and it should be fine, especially as its going to be followed by washes and highlights anyway. With contrast/speedpaints if you've already done the blue shirt when you get black on it... well you cant just cover that with the blue because its semi transparent and the black will show through. Maybe cant even patch it over with a regular blue paint because the speedpaint was basically base and wash so that wont match. There are ways of dealing with it, but its kind of a minor pain in the rear end.

I'm definitely not running contrasts/speedpaints down. I love contrasts and use them a hell of a lot, and am planning on picking up some speedpaints in the near future. But I'd personally recommend keeping the bulk of your initial paints as basic bitch acrylic paints and washes. I'm not saying dont buy any, just maybe get a couple and some normal paint until you get a feel for what you are doing and can put paint in more or less the right place 80% of the time.

Now, having said that; Dont buy the army painter mega set. Its too many paints. Its theoretically decent value, but if you never open half the bottles that value is gone. If you have no paints at all a starter set can be a way of saving some money but stick to one that has like.... 8-12 colours and then supplement it with what you need when you know you'll need it. More expensive per bottle, but lower overall outlay if you see what I mean. Just making up numbers, but 10 paints you will definitely use for $25 is actually better than $40 for 12 paints you use (and 8 you dont open because how many star wars models need hot pink or neon green, plus this red is almost identical to that other red). If all you were painting was stormtroopers for example, how many colours would you actually use.

Oh, and the trick to doing black well is really straightforward; Never paint anything black. Get yourself a nice dark grey thats just a scootch lighter than pure black, that is now the colour you paint anything you want to read as black. Then when you use a black wash over it, you have a "black" which has "darker black" shadows, if you follow me? White is a little trickier to do, but the basic idea is the same; paint something light grey and then layer/highlight up until your final highlight is actual white, so you have a "white" with "lighter white" highlights. Not gonna lie, if you have a bunch of white to paint (stormtroopers and whatnot) then there is a definite use case for picking up a white speedpaint/contrast paint because yeah, white is kind of a pain.

Eej
Jun 17, 2007

HEAVYARMS
There's no such thing as a skill ceiling in art. There will always be someone using equal or lesser tools than you making something you've never even dreamed of. No one's grading you on technique do so there's nothing wrong with using contrasts to start with or regular acrylic paint as long as you are painting and happy with the result. There's nothing stopping you from picking up one or the other at a later point either.

Loden Taylor
Aug 11, 2003

Took a break from GW stuff to paint up Delta Squad from Republic Commando.

SiKboy
Oct 28, 2007

Oh no!😱

Eej posted:

There's no such thing as a skill ceiling in art. There will always be someone using equal or lesser tools than you making something you've never even dreamed of. No one's grading you on technique do so there's nothing wrong with using contrasts to start with or regular acrylic paint as long as you are painting and happy with the result. There's nothing stopping you from picking up one or the other at a later point either.

For me its not about a lesser tool, its literally contrast is less forgiving for a beginner than regular paint. Beginners make more mistakes, and contrast paints are harder to fix mistakes with than ordinary acrylics. You could start with contrasts, but if you are only going to buy one "tool" they arent the one I'd recommend, in the same way I wouldnt recommend someone start with inks or oil paints (and I know for a fact theres at least one person who would absolutely recommend people start with oils, but for me the added hassle of needing mineral spirits for thinning immediately takes them to "dont worry about these until you've worked out which end of the brush you hold" territory). Great tools to use, but poo poo tools for learning with.

StashAugustine
Mar 24, 2013

Do not trust in hope- it will betray you! Only faith and hatred sustain.

For storm troopers in particular prime white wash contrast white is a really fast way to handle them, but I don't use contrasts much otherwise.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Loden Taylor posted:

Took a break from GW stuff to paint up Delta Squad from Republic Commando.



I love them. I loved that game.

notaspy
Mar 22, 2009

How do I safely, or lest unsafely, base my minis indoors using a rattle can?

Open the window with a mask on using a box?

notaspy fucked around with this message at 21:23 on Apr 14, 2022

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 42 hours!

SiKboy posted:

For me its not about a lesser tool, its literally contrast is less forgiving for a beginner than regular paint. Beginners make more mistakes, and contrast paints are harder to fix mistakes with than ordinary acrylics. You could start with contrasts, but if you are only going to buy one "tool" they arent the one I'd recommend, in the same way I wouldnt recommend someone start with inks or oil paints (and I know for a fact theres at least one person who would absolutely recommend people start with oils, but for me the added hassle of needing mineral spirits for thinning immediately takes them to "dont worry about these until you've worked out which end of the brush you hold" territory). Great tools to use, but poo poo tools for learning with.

I would agree with this. Unless a beginner has very steady hands and excellent hand-eye coordination, or has the benefit of an experienced painter there with them to teach and guide, it's tough enough to just get the "paint within the lines" part of mini painting down; but at least with a regular mini paint you can reapply it if you slop another color onto it accidentally. You can't really do that with Contrast or Speedpaints. That's not even considering things like knowing when and how to drag those paints away from an area where they're pooling too much, avoiding the "coffee stain" effect, stuff like that.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Spanish Manlove posted:


Honestly the little starter kit that's just the simple rainbow is perfect for your needs to get going. Don't get the mega set. Then buy some legit good metallics from Vallejo Metal Color etc

This right here. You will use less than half the colors in the Mega Paint set, and a portion of the ones you use will be crappy in some way.

This is the starter set that I always recommend. It's got all the core colors you will use plus a couple metallics and a skin tone. Spend the money you save on some washes, Vallejo metallics and the few specific colors that you might need for your armies that are not included in the core set.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Bucnasti posted:

This right here. You will use less than half the colors in the Mega Paint set, and a portion of the ones you use will be crappy in some way.

This is the starter set that I always recommend. It's got all the core colors you will use plus a couple metallics and a skin tone. Spend the money you save on some washes, Vallejo metallics and the few specific colors that you might need for your armies that are not included in the core set.

Seconding this set. But something like this in the contrasts or regular paints is perfect for starting out.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply