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Say I have a silly idea to use some battle sisters for a model-cosplay contest, but I've never really primed and painted a good white armor before. Anyone have a good recipe for their White Scars or like?
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Apr 14, 2022 22:37
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I'm a big fan of Celestra Grey basecoat then whatever you choose as a recess wash, followed by Ulthuan Grey and VGC Dead White edge highlights.
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Apr 14, 2022 23:32
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SiKboy posted:words The only comment I want to make here is having the variety ON HAND would be beneficial to me, especially now where I want some more color ranges like pinks or greens of things I don't have, and if I wanted to do that, I would have to wait for a specific paint to come in and then maybe by that time the impulse has passed. But, as a newer painter, I will say that there will be tons of paints from a big mega pack would include paints you'd almost never use. There's also the consideration that some paints don't mix well with others. I also agree about the "metal color" paints being very good
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Apr 15, 2022 00:28
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AndyElusive posted:I'm a big fan of Celestra Grey basecoat then whatever you choose as a recess wash, followed by Ulthuan Grey and VGC Dead White edge highlights. Nice, thanks
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Apr 15, 2022 00:35
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I used Corax White over Grey Seer base for a White Scar marine I painted last week. And then Drakenhof nightshade for recess wash and white scar for higlights. But those are definitely interchangeable to what you have/want.
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Apr 15, 2022 00:39
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Loden Taylor posted:Took a break from GW stuff to paint up Delta Squad from Republic Commando. These rule. Wow.
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Apr 15, 2022 00:43
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I think when I finally get started, hopefully later this year, I will buy myself a smaller set of paints and a wash or two, along with Army Painter's Air primer, black or grey since a while ago I did get a airbrush on the cheap a while ago. Finland's weather can be so hot or cold I think spray cans wouldn't work as well and I do want to try the zenithal highlighting with some white from above even if it's a guide for simple shadows.
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Apr 15, 2022 00:57
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I finished off a Red Rocket for Fallout Wastland warfare. Even at 90% it's 70 cm long!  I have also made some custom bases for my Ratkin for kings of war.   
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Apr 15, 2022 09:43
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Say I have a silly idea to use some battle sisters for a model-cosplay contest, but I've never really primed and painted a good white armor before. Anyone have a good recipe for their White Scars or like? My go-to is prime Light Grey, Dry x2 Ulthuan (basically a base coat), Shade 7:1 Medium and Drakenhoff, rebase Ulthuan (unless you pin washed), edge 1:1 Ulthuan and White Scar, extreme edge White Scar
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Apr 15, 2022 11:34
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:Say I have a silly idea to use some battle sisters for a model-cosplay contest, but I've never really primed and painted a good white armor before. Anyone have a good recipe for their White Scars or like? My favorite way of doing white is prime the model a light grey, base coast corax white then recess wash with the tones you're going for (Dark Reaper, Thunderhawk Blue & Fenrisian Grey for cold, Eshin Grey, Dawnstone Grey and Administratum Grey for neutral and Skavenblight Dinge, Stormvermin Fur & Karak Stone for warm) then finish with an edge highlight of whatever pure white. I used the warm tones for the recess shading on these guys. 
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Apr 15, 2022 17:28
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It took a long time but he's done, just needs sticking on the base. Everyone, meet Hors.   
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Apr 15, 2022 20:08
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What is this, a mini for ants (Post bigger pictures my guy)
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Apr 15, 2022 20:34
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Finished up a Sherman Russ for my Plague Legion renegade guard.    This one is more or less just a test model, gunna print like 6 more with sponsons and different weapon loadouts next.
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Apr 15, 2022 21:55
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Disaster has struck! My personalized paint ferris wheel has arrived and the paint pots don't fit.
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Apr 15, 2022 22:13
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WTF? Didn't the pictures of that thing show it holding almost every brand of modern mini paint pot/dropper bottle?
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Apr 15, 2022 22:28
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Bucnasti posted:Finished up a Sherman Russ for my Plague Legion renegade guard. This is extremely Metal Slug, in the best possible way
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Apr 15, 2022 22:31
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AndyElusive posted:WTF? Didn't the pictures of that thing show it holding almost every brand of modern mini paint pot/dropper bottle? Yeah, the images definitely do. I am suspecting they must have accidently had their CNC machine set for holes for the Vallejo style only set-up. I was pretty clear in my custom order request I wanted the 96 hole version for citadel paints. I messaged the seller, will have to see what they say. It is pretty sad because otherwise it is really awesome. (etsy image below shows the 96 pot holder holding citadel paint)  *edit* They are very fast at responding to messages, they are printing me a new set of rails right away. That is very nice of them. I feel really bad for them though, I imagine any small business a mistake like this probably really impacts them. Since it seems like this little issue will be cleared up in a few days I really recommend this holder! I will, of course, have a better opinion when I get the correct rails on and can see how it looks with my citadel paint. As for the finish and custom laser engraving I am *very* pleased!  
IncredibleIgloo fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Apr 15, 2022 |
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Apr 15, 2022 22:36
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So I have a pot of contrast medium. What would the ratio be of non contrast paint to the medium to make it behave like a normal pot of contrast paint?
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Apr 15, 2022 23:08
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Lucinice posted:So I have a pot of contrast medium. What would the ratio be of non contrast paint to the medium to make it behave like a normal pot of contrast paint? So, to my understanding, the primary use of contrast medium is to lessen the color of a contrast paint while maintaining the fluid characteristics of contrast paint. I think that if you want to maintain those contrast characteristics you would have to have the majority of the paint mixture be that contrast medium. It might limit the amount and brightness of color choices. I don't have enough experience with them to give a good suggestions, but perhaps starting with a fair amount of medium and adding color little by little and seeing how it goes might be a good way to approach the situation, although it could be a patience building exercise.
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Apr 16, 2022 00:19
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Acrylic paints don't really become contrast paints if you add some medium, or it takes a lot of meidum to the point where I'm not sure it's worth it. You can, however, very easily turn any acrylic ink into a contrast paint with a few drops of contrast medium. That's usually what I do and you don't lose the intensity of the ink at all. The easiest way to get contrast paint like effect is to incorporate some glaze medium into a regular acrylic paint which is some ratio of flow improver and medium (and something else?)
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Apr 16, 2022 01:15
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I think Ninjon has a video on how to make your own. Idk, I don't use them, though I've considered picking up Black Templar or whatever for Space Marine joints
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Apr 16, 2022 01:40
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Dreylad posted:Acrylic paints don't really become contrast paints if you add some medium, or it takes a lot of meidum to the point where I'm not sure it's worth it. You can, however, very easily turn any acrylic ink into a contrast paint with a few drops of contrast medium. That's usually what I do and you don't lose the intensity of the ink at all. Dang okay I was going off what I had been told by someone. I guess I got some bad advice.
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Apr 16, 2022 02:13
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Zuul the Cat posted:My favorite way of doing white is prime the model a light grey, base coast corax white then recess wash with the tones you're going for (Dark Reaper, Thunderhawk Blue & Fenrisian Grey for cold, Eshin Grey, Dawnstone Grey and Administratum Grey for neutral and Skavenblight Dinge, Stormvermin Fur & Karak Stone for warm) then finish with an edge highlight of whatever pure white. They look great! My only suggestion would be a bit more contrast/ layering with the gold in order to make it stand out.
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Apr 16, 2022 02:40
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Lucinice posted:Dang okay I was going off what I had been told by someone. I guess I got some bad advice. Hey if you want to try don't let me discourage you from experimenting! But from my experimentation with contrast medium I find acrylic inks work the best with contrast medium (besides other contrast paints). The good news is inks aren't too expensive so if you do want to create your own custom contrast paints it's not too bad after you get some medium.
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Apr 16, 2022 03:14
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The best way to think of it is that hobby paint is pigment suspended in an acrylic matte medium. Contrast medium is just another form of acrylic medium and it's basically white goop that you add colour (pigment) to. When you're colouring it with a hobby paint you're adding colour (pigment) and matte medium (more goop) to your contrast medium (semi translucent goop that flows well). In contrast (heh), acrylic ink has a higher pigment to medium ratio which is why it packs more colour per drop and it is often more transparent than hobby paint which means you're adding more colour and less filler. You're not banned from using regular paints to colour your contrast medium by any means though, acrylic inks are pure pigments while hobby paints are premade mixtures to get a specific colour. Maybe you just want your contrast paint to be a consistent shade across your army and mixing it with hobby paints is Good Enough.
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Apr 16, 2022 03:43
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Bucnasti posted:Finished up a Sherman Russ for my Plague Legion renegade guard. This thing makes my brain hurt in the best way.
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Apr 16, 2022 05:20
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Lucinice posted:Dang okay I was going off what I had been told by someone. I guess I got some bad advice. I have a bottle of 1:1 Flow Improver and Matte Medium that I use as a contrast-like blender. I use this medium a lot while painting as I prefer to slowly layer thin coats get them desired shading. It definitely works best with inks or other pigment heavy paints as mentioned above. I’ve tried contrast medium instead of this solution and haven’t been quite as pleased with it. Contrast medium is similar in composition to the medium I make but medium makes the paint feel more washed out. You can play with a different proportion of flow improver for different effects as well. More flow improver works well on lighter paints which need less matte medium.
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Apr 16, 2022 12:29
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Dunno if this is the place for airbrush trouble shooting, but I've got bubbles and paint coming out of the trigger. I've tried it with different nozzles and cleaned it out a couple times, any idea what the problem could be? Paint still comes out but the pressure is wacky Gonna give it another deep clean tomorrow but I'm stumped. E I've got a harder and steenbeck ultra btw Communist Thoughts fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 16, 2022 |
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Apr 16, 2022 16:38
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I have some Valejo Matte Varnish in a dropper bottle, and I have an airbrush. Is putting the former into the latter something I can do? If so, do I thin it? If I do thin it, with what and in roughly what ratio? I also assume I need to clean the living beejeepers out of it afterwords. I was hoping to varnish today outside with a spray can, but lol, it is snowing.
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Apr 16, 2022 16:50
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I airbrush liquitex varnish all the time, but it's pretty thick so I do thin it fairly heavily water and a drop or two of flow improver. I have significantly less trouble with that than I do with my stynelrez primer. I switched to Vallejo airbrush primer and haven't looked back.
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Apr 16, 2022 17:58
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Communist Thoughts posted:Dunno if this is the place for airbrush trouble shooting, but I've got bubbles and paint coming out of the trigger. Not an expert by any means, but it's possible your needle packing screw and O-ring need to be tightened, or you may have to replace the needle packing O-ring. If you take the back off your airbrush and take the needle and trigger out and look down inside it, you'll see the brass top of the needle packing screw. The O-ring that goes with it at the end of the screw (where your airbrush passes through from the back of the airbrush into the main body) is a teeny little sliver of what I'm guessing is white silicon or teflon tubing. When it's compressed down enough, it will prevent paint etc. from bubbling back into your airbrush and causing the problem you mentioned. One of my cheap airbrushes was giving me the same issue and when I replaced the O-ring and tightened down the packing screw, it fixed that problem. Since you're using a Harder and Steenbeck airbrush, you'll probably want to get the parts specifically made for that airbrush. They should have needle packing screws and O-rings available for your particular model.
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Apr 16, 2022 18:04
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Relevant to recent discussions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRMD86LWN9Q
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Apr 16, 2022 18:48
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notaspy posted:How do I safely, or lest unsafely, base my minis indoors using a rattle can? squint and hold your breath
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Apr 17, 2022 03:32
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Mixed up some burnt sienna with some "odorless spirits" (which totally still had an odor, so I had to run the airbrush hood range to pull away any fumes) and jeez that took forever. Stir stir stir stir Didn't use up much oil, used a decent portion of spirit to fill a 30ml dropper bottle that will probably last me forever. Nice. Also moved all my shades and contrasts to dropper bottles too, that took a while. I also tried some "liquitex basics" acrylic gold and it is SUPER transparent. I guess I gotta stick my (clean) brush in the squirt bottle because you can easily push out way too much. Took me a few coats but the aquilla still looks pretty thin...  Don't worry about the mess, still in the base-coating phase and using these to test different methods with, like the aquilla with non-mini paints, or painting the leather directly with oil, etc I kind of want to keep the color of the ground there, but I have to brush prime the skulls and not get the ground dirty. I guess I could paint back over any brush misses or just cover the area with a tiny bush... GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 04:52 on Apr 17, 2022 |
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Apr 17, 2022 04:50
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I bought these sitting on my desk since before Christmas because I'm not in love with the test scheme. I can't quite put my finger on what is wrong either. The brown of the gloves kinda merge with the axe handle but even changing that I'm stuck. Is it a saturation or tone thing. Really any thoughts would be helpful
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Apr 17, 2022 20:45
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Quickly painted up a halfling knight from Stonehaven miniatures. Kinda made a hash of the eyes, but it looks fine from a foot away.
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Apr 17, 2022 21:41
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I bought some Nostalgia 88 paints and this is... these truly are the paints of my youth. The smell, the colour, the Skull White coverage... Forgot to get some Smelly Primer though, possibly for the best. Titillating Pink looks super bright under my lovely lighting. Maybe I'll get enough layers down for it to look solid by the time the sun comes up.
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Apr 18, 2022 03:22
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Is there a citadel to ak paint conversion chart anywhere?
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Apr 18, 2022 05:48
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MasterBuilder posted:I bought these sitting on my desk since before Christmas because I'm not in love with the test scheme. I can't quite put my finger on what is wrong either. The brown of the gloves kinda merge with the axe handle but even changing that I'm stuck. Is it a saturation or tone thing. Really any thoughts would be helpful Do edge highlighting on the helmet and beard to make the "face" pop. Then do the same for the tabard over the mail on both the green and blue figure. That should make the core elements of the mini stand out and draw the whole thing together.
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Apr 18, 2022 06:43
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AndyElusive posted:Is there a citadel to ak paint conversion chart anywhere? A lot of AK paints are pretty much 1:1 to vallejo model colour paints so you can probably get away with using the citadel-vallejo conversion chart. And looking at it AK has a conversion chart with vallejo paints: http://www.ak-masters.com/app/pdf/RCEquivalenceDIG.pdf. Citadel isn't included sadly but you can basically convert from that chart to this chart: https://redgrimm.github.io/paint-conversion/
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Apr 18, 2022 08:05
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