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Pics of my main and sub. The trick with the main is those 4 blanks at the bottom of the main cover are actually not blanks, there's nothing behind them. So the only free space is the 2pole in slot 6/8 that's off - that goes to dead circuit and is gonna get reused. 
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Apr 13, 2022 18:46
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Ahh, I see. In that case, I'd advocate for option 1, and making a bigger subpanel than you need for this project, so you have more expansion options in the future. Replacing your main panel can trigger a lot of deferred upgrades on all the rest of the electrical stuff in your house. Like, if you have wiring from 50 years ago, that might all need to be replaced. I'm not an expert, but that's what I remember being told when I was thinking about replacing my main panel. Meanwhile, putting in a subpanel is pretty straightforward. The worst of it will be running the (thick) cables from the main panel to the sub panel. But panels themselves are cheap, even if they have high capacity.
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Apr 13, 2022 18:55
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OK that's weird to my midwestern eyes but I'm guessing that kind of setup is normal in your area - that main panel looks to be outside from the lighting, and the sub inside? I've got a 42 slot main panel in the basement that runs everything, but my guess is it's somewhat "normal" in your area of the country to have a smaller outdoor panel with just a few beefy breakers, feeding 1 or more sub-panels for all the little stuff? I was thinking if you replaced the main panel you could get some fancy Square D breakers with AFCI/GFCI protection, but looks like you've already got that in the sub-panel. So yeah, Option 1 makes the most sense.
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Apr 13, 2022 19:02
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Calidus posted:Is there any safety reason not to have an outlet 6” off the ground? I can’t find anything about it with NEC. Flooding is the only thing that comes to mind. There a bunch of ADA minimum height stuff out there. Baseboard outlets in finished spaces happen a lot in historical renovations where they don't want to use wiremold and surface mount boxes since you can hide all the plaster damage behind the trim. That said, if you're already cutting a hole in modern construction, just fish wire up to wherever you want the box to be and patch the lower hole after you've used it for fishing.
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Apr 13, 2022 19:23
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FISHMANPET posted:TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks for the suggestions, yeah it's looking like #1 most likely. This is TX, so most houses are slab on grade w/ no basement, and most main panels I see are indeed outside w/ sub inside typically in the garage. At least in suburban tract land, which is most of the state anyway.
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Apr 13, 2022 19:53
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corgski posted:Baseboard outlets in finished spaces happen a lot in historical renovations where they don't want to use wiremold and surface mount boxes since you can hide all the plaster damage behind the trim. Hmm yea I guess I can drill through the sub floor and base plate while in the basement and fish a line up the wall. The pain will be trying find the studs when I am underneath them. I am realizing while I am doing this I should probably just install another 20 amp dedicated circuit for my garage fridge. I started this project to use up all my extra wiring crap to make space in my garage and now I am end up spending $200 on conduit and Romex.
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Apr 13, 2022 21:10
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corgski posted:Baseboard outlets in finished spaces happen a lot in historical renovations where they don't want to use wiremold and surface mount boxes since you can hide all the plaster damage behind the trim. Are baseboard outlets still code compliant? We need to rewire at some point due to old cloth-wrapped conductors and I was not looking forward to paying for a bunch of plaster repair because I assumed the baseboard ones weren't code anymore.
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Apr 13, 2022 23:48
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corgski posted:Baseboard outlets in finished spaces happen a lot in historical renovations where they don't want to use wiremold and surface mount boxes since you can hide all the plaster damage behind the trim. I have floor-mounted outlets facing up, but I admit this house is old as hell and remodeled by drunk idiots.
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Apr 14, 2022 02:08
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^ That's a drunk idiot choice, for sure. Danhenge posted:Are baseboard outlets still code compliant? We need to rewire at some point due to old cloth-wrapped conductors and I was not looking forward to paying for a bunch of plaster repair because I assumed the baseboard ones weren't code anymore. I don't know of anything in NEC forbidding them and my house rewire involved updating a lot of baseboard outlets that were already installed, as well as adding a few new ones. As far as I know they only fell out of favor because it's less labor to install boxes in new drywall than it is to cut holes in trim. That said, talk to your AHJ to make sure they don't see it differently since they'll be the ones signing off on the permit. corgski fucked around with this message at 07:22 on Apr 14, 2022 |
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Apr 14, 2022 07:19
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Question: is there anything special about a dishwasher power cord, or will a general appliance/tool power cord be OK? This is what I’m looking at: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-9-ft-14-3-Medium-Duty-Tool-Replacement-Cord-in-Black-HD-342-576/303679849 Background: we just had installer #2 come out to install a new dishwasher, and they found that (1) the standard 5 foot cord is too short and (2) the previous installation had a really nice hacked together lengthened power cord held together by wire nuts hidden in the cabinets. We need an 8-9 foot long power cord for the dishwasher, and I want to be sure we get the right one. Edit: Bonus pic of the hidden hacked together power cord: https://imgur.com/a/5Nybl3E smax fucked around with this message at 21:35 on Apr 14, 2022 |
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Apr 14, 2022 21:16
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smax posted:Question: is there anything special about a dishwasher power cord, or will a general appliance/tool power cord be OK? This is what I’m looking at: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-9-ft-14-3-Medium-Duty-Tool-Replacement-Cord-in-Black-HD-342-576/303679849 Assuming it's a 15a appliance that should be fine. Make sure you get one that's at least 14awg - which that one is - cheaper ones will be less.
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Apr 14, 2022 21:47
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H110Hawk posted:Assuming it's a 15a appliance that should be fine. Make sure you get one that's at least 14awg - which that one is - cheaper ones will be less. The standard 5-6' cords that are marketed for dishwashers seem to mostly be 13A/16AWG cords, so I'll be sure to get a heavier gauge one to be sure.
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Apr 14, 2022 22:07
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Infinotize posted:Pics of my main and sub. The trick with the main is those 4 blanks at the bottom of the main cover are actually not blanks, there's nothing behind them. So the only free space is the 2pole in slot 6/8 that's off - that goes to dead circuit and is gonna get reused. sorry to be extremely nosy but why is your solar backfeed breaker off? you could turn this into a line side tap to free up another 2 spaces, but it would mean installing a little 2 space panel or fusible disconnect immediately next to this main while they are tandem 2-pole breakers, i don't think they make any for QO and you're pretty much only going to find two sets of 2-pole 20's. probably best to stick with using those last two spaces on a subpanel or you'll just be back here again sooner than you think
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Apr 14, 2022 23:55
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Extant Artiodactyl posted:sorry to be extremely nosy but why is your solar backfeed breaker off? you could turn this into a line side tap to free up another 2 spaces, but it would mean installing a little 2 space panel or fusible disconnect immediately next to this main This was literally the day my solar was installed so I was waiting on the utility to go ahead and commission it, it's on now! I am just going to eat the somewhat more expensive route and add the additional subpanel at this point.
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Apr 15, 2022 21:29
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Infinotize posted:This was literally the day my solar was installed so I was waiting on the utility to go ahead and commission it, it's on now! holy poo poo that is a fast turnaround from install to operating! here in new england it's several weeks between the town inspectors and the utilities
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Apr 15, 2022 22:24
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Extant Artiodactyl posted:holy poo poo that is a fast turnaround from install to operating! here in new england it's several weeks between the town inspectors and the utilities I'll give no quarter to anything related to the grid or govt in tx, but in true "deregulate everything" fashion, from signing a contract w/ an installer to throwing the switch and pumping sun juice into my panel was 2 weeks e: you literally don't even have to get it inspected at least in my grid area, once you get an approved interconnect agreement (which is all done electronically and remotely), installer can just go install and turn it on Infinotize fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Apr 15, 2022 |
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Apr 15, 2022 23:42
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Just wanted to say I really want to thank the thread for recommending those WAGO single-height connectors. I originally thought they were kind of silly when wire nuts are fine and cheap. But I got some and the slim profile is great for saving room in boxes with all my Zwave switches. And my new favorite use is installing lighting fixtures. Now I can prepare everything in the ceiling box and leave one lever open for the chandelier. It makes for much less swearing and a quicker job while holding the fixture up making connections before attaching it to the box.
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Apr 16, 2022 03:55
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On top of the (very real) benefits you've mentioned, I also feel far better using Wagos instead of wire nuts when one (let alone more) of the wires involved is stranded instead of solid.
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Apr 16, 2022 04:14
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I just like using them when my nephew is around because it sounds just like how he says "Lego".
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Apr 16, 2022 23:17
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Has anyone had any luck with the wafer thin halo recessed lights under a joist? I am planning where I want some to go and for them to be even, one or two are going to be under a joist.
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Apr 17, 2022 14:55
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KKKLIP ART posted:Has anyone had any luck with the wafer thin halo recessed lights under a joist? I am planning where I want some to go and for them to be even, one or two are going to be under a joist. Those puck lights are absolutely great. Just get good ones with a high CRI (same advice for all LEDs).
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Apr 17, 2022 15:02
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Using wire nuts on 4 12 gage wires in a confined space above your head sucks.
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Apr 17, 2022 16:29
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Calidus posted:Using wire nuts on 4 12 gage wires in a confined space above your head sucks. Seems like the ideal place for a wago
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Apr 17, 2022 16:32
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Calidus posted:Using wire nuts KKKLIP ART posted:Seems like the ideal place for a wago Fixed. I know a lot of folks are all about the lever nut wagos, and I do have those and use em where needed, but the wago nut connectors are much cheaper and have a ton of the same benefits. gently caress regular wire nuts forever.
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Apr 17, 2022 17:02
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Where's a good place to buy the wago inline connectors? I did a quick search and see ebay listings and stuff. I'd prefer to buy from a legitimate dealer
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Apr 17, 2022 17:23
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Vim Fuego posted:Where's a good place to buy the wago inline connectors? I did a quick search and see ebay listings and stuff. I'd prefer to buy from a legitimate dealer I did Amazon, and then Platt (local electric supply house). I now have enough foreverrrrrrrrr. Quick low-voltage question -- I was cleaning up my CATV distribution / general low-voltage stuff, and was using my Klein compression connectors and crimpers. When it says to peel back the braid... do you peel back the braid (outer shield) and fold it back, but leave the inner foil in place? Or do you peel it all back over onto the jacket so that there is no metal / foil / shield left around that foam core? RG-6U tri- or quad-shield cable. I might have a couple to redo. Second question -- I put some DIN rail in the enclosure and got some Meanwell DIN mount supplies to clean up the power brick situation in there. Does someone make a "breakout" of sorts from a F connector? My MoCA amp needs 15 VDC and I feel like I'm gonna do a lovely job trying to get actual RG-6U ferruled up and feel confident about it. Something that goes F to banana, or similar. Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/zdyCGTime-Te...ps%2C104&sr=8-7 plus a F to BNC adapter? e: fake triple post, for a modern panel (i.e. https://www.se.com/us/en/product/QO...-ul-value-pack/) there is zero issue in installing it "upside-down", right? My cables from the meter come in from the bottom and it seems stupid to me to loop all that cable around the top. Apparently electrical work is the closest thing I get to relaxation and while I don't have to replace my entire panel... movax fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Apr 17, 2022 |
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Apr 17, 2022 18:18
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Leave the foil. As I recall that's the ground path.
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Apr 17, 2022 19:59
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H110Hawk posted:Leave the foil. As I recall that's the ground path. Sigh -- yeah, after I did the first few (just cutting up / using a 100 FT Monoprice cable), I stripped back one of the ones original to the house and it behaved slightly differently and I realized I might have been being a dumbass. Klein makes good tools though! Easy fix and easy to work with when you have the right poo poo...
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Apr 17, 2022 20:11
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movax posted:I did Amazon, Yeah, I haven't found a listing for them on Amazon. I see the normal ones but not the inline ones 
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Apr 17, 2022 20:53
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Vim Fuego posted:Yeah, I haven't found a listing for them on Amazon. I see the normal ones but not the inline ones Interesting that those are only rated 18-14 AWG. I think every other WAGO I've seen has been rated to at least 12 AWG.
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Apr 17, 2022 21:00
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https://www.wago.com/us/wire-splicing-connectors/inline-splicing-connector-with-lever/p/221-2401 Website goes to 12. Including the picture. Wierd.
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Apr 17, 2022 21:04
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movax posted:Sigh -- yeah, after I did the first few (just cutting up / using a 100 FT Monoprice cable), I stripped back one of the ones original to the house and it behaved slightly differently and I realized I might have been being a dumbass. So the coax works as a waveguide by the outer conductor and inner conductor acting as a transmission line. When terminating coax, follow the instructions on the connector. The datasheet will list all the strip distances and crimp depths for the connector you're using.
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Apr 17, 2022 21:10
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SpartanIvy posted:Interesting that those are only rated 18-14 AWG. I think every other WAGO I've seen has been rated to at least 12 AWG. I mean, I'm looking for 12 rated ones. That's just the first image of the inline style I grabbed.
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Apr 17, 2022 21:12
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:So the coax works as a waveguide by the outer conductor and inner conductor acting as a transmission line. When terminating coax, follow the instructions on the connector. The datasheet will list all the strip distances and crimp depths for the connector you're using. The Klein instructions IMO were just a bit unclear on if you strip it all off, or just that outer shield. These runs are all short enough that I’m not too worried / I could throw a VNA on there if I get curious enough, but I’d like to get it right.
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Apr 17, 2022 22:33
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movax posted:e: fake triple post, for a modern panel (i.e. https://www.se.com/us/en/product/QO...-ul-value-pack/) there is zero issue in installing it "upside-down", right? My cables from the meter come in from the bottom and it seems stupid to me to loop all that cable around the top. Apparently electrical work is the closest thing I get to relaxation and while I don't have to replace my entire panel... Yeah it's a little weird, but it's fine. My subpanel in my garage is upside down because the feed comes from the bottom. I suppose the most correct answer is to check with your local inspector. My upside down subpanel got the magic sticker from the inspector, but yours might have a problem with it.
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Apr 17, 2022 23:54
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I can't see why an upside down panel would be an issue, there are tons of places that have the power coming in underground from the street and straight into the bottom of the panel.
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Apr 18, 2022 13:44
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When I converted to underground, the inspector wanted to see documentation that inverted was an approved install orientation. This was an outdoor panel, so that made sense, and I had to find the detailed spec and compliance cert sheet that said the words. I would expect most major panel brands have the same, it's just an exercise in hunting it down.
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Apr 18, 2022 14:41
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Wiring Thread 2.0: have you tried looking for certified documentation that connecting the wires at the bottom is an approved use case?
shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 14:59 on Apr 18, 2022 |
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Apr 18, 2022 14:57
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movax posted:e: fake triple post, for a modern panel (i.e. https://www.se.com/us/en/product/QO...-ul-value-pack/) there is zero issue in installing it "upside-down", right? My cables from the meter come in from the bottom and it seems stupid to me to loop all that cable around the top. Apparently electrical work is the closest thing I get to relaxation and while I don't have to replace my entire panel... https://www.se.com/us/en/faqs/FA121184/ Check your model number exactly. This lists what you're allowed to do with QO panelboards.
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Apr 18, 2022 15:05
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movax posted:
Page 6 https://media.distributordatasolutions.com/schneider2/2020q4/documents/a78f57b3a5a36b6529d8254b5ff3dec19c631472.pdf says type 1 indoor panels are rotatable (for that model year, I'd assume they still are, but maybe you can find a more recent version)
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Apr 18, 2022 15:07
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