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Aurium posted:The z axis is the most tolerant one at dealing with backlash, and can deal with quite a lot in the nut. Generally gravity will keep it seated and consistent if the axis isn't binding. Is this kind of wobble/skew acceptable for the z-axis leadscrew on a Prusa Mini? Since it's my first printer I don't have a good frame of reference but it doesn't seem to be the sort of precision I'd expect with the Prusa name on it. When I had it working (with the backlash I was talking about previously), on about half the prints it would just drag the nozzle across the bed, and then if I restarted the same print with no other changes, it would work just fine the next time around. I've definitely picked up a 3d printer fixing hobby, where I'd like to actually have a 3d printing hobby! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-SEqTyV4A4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEJJcSe74lg
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Apr 18, 2022 20:38
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swampface posted:Is this kind of wobble/skew acceptable for the z-axis leadscrew on a Prusa Mini? Since it's my first printer I don't have a good frame of reference but it doesn't seem to be the sort of precision I'd expect with the Prusa name on it. When I had it working (with the backlash I was talking about previously), on about half the prints it would just drag the nozzle across the bed, and then if I restarted the same print with no other changes, it would work just fine the next time around. That's fine. The vertical metal rods are what constrains that motion. My first instinct is that it sounds like your prints were too far from the bed. Kalman posted:Yeah, I misread your configuration (it’s like there’s a reason circuits get diagrammed instead of described in text when people aren’t just shitposting), that should work fine. Pictures explaining words? Sounds like witchcraft to me.
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Apr 18, 2022 21:53
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Semiconductors are rocks we taught to do math, witchcraft seems just as likely!
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Apr 18, 2022 22:21
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So, I think I did a dumb thing. I decided to get an ender s1 pro, and tried to find a legit seller. Despite looking kinda shady, I ended up placing an order late last week from "creality3dofficial.com" as I found some (apparently outdated) posts elsewhere implying that it really was the real OEM seller. Turns out I totally missed "store.creality.com"... Do any goons know if I ordered from some kind of scam site? I did pay via PayPal, so I may be able to dispute it if so.
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Apr 18, 2022 22:37
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Not sure about the site, but don't count on PayPal siding with you if the scammers know what they are doing.
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Apr 19, 2022 00:15
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Aurium posted:
The thing that has led me down this whole path is that even with the super-pinda "bed leveling", I can not get a consistent first layer. The first layer calibration will have wildly different thicknesses of first layer bead at different points of the bed. Even if I do get a calibration where it's somewhere in the middle, z-height wise, some prints start with the nozzle touching the bed, and if I restart the same print sometimes it'll be perfect, other times it's digging a groove through the sheet with the tip of the nozzle. There is absolutely no consistency or precision to it and it's driving me up the wall.
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Apr 19, 2022 00:18
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inkmoth posted:So, I think I did a dumb thing. I decided to get an ender s1 pro, and tried to find a legit seller. Despite looking kinda shady, I ended up placing an order late last week from "creality3dofficial.com" as I found some (apparently outdated) posts elsewhere implying that it really was the real OEM seller. Turns out I totally missed "store.creality.com"... This is the outfit I got my Ender 3 v2 from. Also got 2kg of filament in a bundle deal. No problem.
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Apr 19, 2022 00:18
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inkmoth posted:Do any goons know if I ordered from some kind of scam site? I did pay via PayPal, so I may be able to dispute it if so. I also got my ender 3 v2 from this site, you're fine I'm sure.
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Apr 19, 2022 01:32
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Jeesus Christ, this is a loving deal! I swear to god I am not a Phrozen shill, but they are really making REALLY nice resin printers now. I'm super happy with the Mini 8k and the Mega 8k I got. The Mini 8k in particular is a very well engineered machine, in particular. You could stand on the Z axis and that fucker wouldn't budge a micron, and the plate bracket is the nicest of all the printers I own (and I own one of every major manufacturers printers). The Might 8k pre-order looks to be a stupidly good deal at $699 total with a bunch of extras if you put $50 down. I paid more than that for the Mini 8k preorder!! Air shipping is only $100 more. They have really listened to the customer base, which is impressive since their feedback about the Chitu mb was telling people that life sucks. That's such a good deal, I am VERY tempted to get 2 and sell off a bunch of my print farm. Here's the downpayment deal, good for 2 days until orders open: https://phrozen3d.com/pages/mighty-8k-preorder-8k-resolution-maximized-productivity Anyone want to buy a Mars 2 pro, an EPAX E10 with the 5k LCD upgrade, and a Anycubic Photon mono? Seriously.
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Apr 19, 2022 13:10
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The free shipping on that's real tempting. I was looking into a mega but shipping it up to Canada was going to be $300+
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Apr 19, 2022 16:04
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I want a large format resin printer pretty badly (for no loving reason, I just want to occasionally print large masks for cosplay that I could easily split up) The biggest hurdle for me has been that I haven't seen many large-format wash+cure setups e: actually I take that back I've been struggling to get a flowerpot printed in resin after splitting it in meshmixer and this whole process loving sucks Though this could also be remedied by software that A. isn't loving meshmixer B. splits and keys models automatically I could see Prusa spitting out such software within the next year, given how they've been pushing all sorts of cool and useful stuff to make printing easier Sockser fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Apr 19, 2022 |
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Apr 19, 2022 17:31
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Sockser posted:Though this could also be remedied by software that I hate meshmixer. For simple stuff like plane cuts or subtractions I've had great luck with windows 3d builder. Might be worth a try if you haven't checked it out.
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Apr 19, 2022 17:42
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Tremors posted:I hate meshmixer. For simple stuff like plane cuts or subtractions I've had great luck with windows 3d builder. Might be worth a try if you haven't checked it out. Plane cuts are simple enough-- it's adding keying between models that is the problem Though as a result of this griping, I did find https://www.luban3d.com/ And it does do exactly what I want, really well, really quickly But man it is jank as gently caress just as a piece of software Also license required for managing big models Next time I need to split something I'm going to see if I can decimate the model a bit and get it through on the free license Worth case I shell out $16 for a one month license My past week of dicking around in meshmixer definitely cost me more than $16 in mental well-being
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Apr 19, 2022 19:47
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Does anyone want to read my way too long story of building a prusa mk3s+ clone by ordering individual parts
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Apr 19, 2022 22:00
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mewse posted:Does anyone want to read my way too long story of building a prusa mk3s+ clone by ordering individual parts In all seriousness, yes. I'm interested to see what you missed and what was really impressive,
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Apr 19, 2022 22:17
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Since one of you asked for it: I recently built a prusa mk3s+ clone, but instead of buying a kit, like a normal person, I bought all the parts separately because I wanted a specific color combination for the frame + printed parts. It's taken me five years to finally build a mk3 after building a mk2 clone 6-7 years ago. This gave me the additional brain problem of wanting to use very high quality parts but avoiding official Prusa parts (because of cost I guess). Mentally I had categorized vendors from best quality to least: Prusa, Triangle Labs, Fysetc, Sealand/Blurolls. Prusa is Prusa, the other three are AliExpress vendors. - The colored frame was from Sealand on aliexpress. I've used a mk2.5s kit from them before and their products are cheap but not great quality. The frame had an option to bundle an affordable set of smooth rods. They had an affordable fastener kit for mk3 (non-s, non-s+) that I picked up, it included a lot of useful hardware including rubber feet, the bed mounting hardware+spacers, etc. Two things really upset me - there didn't seem to be enough m3x10 screws included in the fastener kit (I got away with subbing in m3x12 a bunch of times during the build) - but much worse, one of the smooth rods for the Y-axis had deep scratches in it. I didn't notice them until assembly when they caught my fingernail or something and I saw the rod was ruined. - Fysetc seem like they have their act together. I don't think any of their parts came in as unacceptable. Notably I ordered the motors, control board, and LCD from Fysetc and they all seemed comparable to the official Prusa parts. I steered clear of the heated bed from Fysetc because there was an aliexpress review claiming there were no traces on the bottom side of the heatbed, which wouldn't be great, so I spent the price premium to get a Triangle Labs bed. Fysetc have the new bed clips for the Y axis bearings that are mk3s+ spec. They have an affordable full kit that I think they are saying is mk3s+ spec, I think that kit would be a good base for a build with a few targeted swaps (heatbed). - Triangle Labs, I've ordered from before but I think it was when Tom Sanladerer was building his voron kit that he said Triangle Labs are a reputable vendor with quality products. They have a mk3s kit that is more expensive than Fysetc but is probably what I would advise people get if they want a problem-free kit, unfortunately the price is approaching an official Prusa kit. Any of the parts I knew needed to be high quality I ordered from Triangle Labs - heat bed, clone bondtech gears, power supply (only like $10 more than fysetc), gates belts.. and they didn't have cheap lm8uu bearings so I ordered igus bearings from them.. which I'm not happy with now, might discuss later. Came out of this project very impressed with Triangle Labs again, especially the extruder gears, I want to put them in my other printers now. - Prusa.. you can't build a mk3s+ without the superpinda, and you can't buy a clone of the superpinda. So I ordered a real superpinda from Prusa, but you can order the mk3 upgrade kit for $20 more than includes a ton of fasteners (notably all the fasteners I'd be missing with my full mk3 set from Sealand), a genuine filament sensor, the fan shroud printed in ASA, a 300g mini spool of black PETG to print the revised extruder parts(!!). I also ordered a satin sheet because I'd be paying for shipping anyway. After building the machine it failed the self-test - "check axis length X". Moving the extruder left to right, I could feel the tension increasing at both ends of travel, which was apparently triggering the virtual endstops early. I still haven't 100% fixed this yet but I got it past the test once and printing, and after a lot of part swapping I'm basically going to rebuild the x-axis with new printed parts and linear bearings rather than igus bearings. Speaking of igus bearings, I'm using the non-constrained bearings without the metal shell (RJ4JP01) and they're not great. They have play on the 8mm rods. The heated bed twists in place. I thought it would be ok because the bed has no play left-right (+x/-x), but the bed twists slightly every time the Y motor changes directions (hard to explain without making exaggerated hand gestures). I think I'm going to replace all the igus bearings with linear bearings, waiting for them to show up. Highlights: - SuperPINDA is amazing - Official Prusa satin sheet is amazing - Trianglelabs dual drive gears are amazing - Trianglelabs heatbed + other parts are high quality - Gates belts are *great* Middling: - Sensorless homing is interesting but doesn't seem to offer an advantage over endstops - The trinamic silent drivers are nice but seem louder on the prusa frame than my hypercube corexy - Colored frame and fastener kit from Sealand were acceptable - Fysetc parts (control board / LCD / etc) were acceptable Lowlights: - X axis binding was extremely frustrating - Scratched Y axis smooth rod from blurolls/sealand - The non-constrained Igus bearings aren't an improvement over linear bearings - Price for building piecemeal seems like a fool's game vs buying fysetc/triangle labs kit and targeted upgrades Conclusion: Did we learn anything? Maybe just buy a kit rather than being an idiot like me, but it's a hobby, do whatever. If anyone wants I have a BOM with links to all the parts I used that I can DM or email, I don't want to post it publicly. mewse fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Apr 20, 2022 |
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Apr 19, 2022 22:27
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I want a 3d printer, I have no reason to get one, I don't need one. I just think they're cool and I wanna mess about with it. I was looking at the phrozen 8ks mentioned above so I can do larger prints in one go without messing about with doing it in bits and I prefer the look of resin over filament prints because of the fine details. Am I being dumb? Can I mess with something so big? Is it straightforward enough to learn?
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Apr 19, 2022 22:32
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Ragnar Gunvald posted:I want a 3d printer, I have no reason to get one, I don't need one. I just think they're cool and I wanna mess about with it. I've got a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4k and an Elegoo Saturn, and they're both great printers, I'd say go for it. Watch some YouTube vids and research the printer you end up choosing, and you will get the hang of it fairly quickly. Just be sure to keep it away from curious kids and pets, and make sure to get plenty of nitrile gloves and paper towels, and you'll be set. 
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Apr 19, 2022 22:44
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I would order more from triangle labs if it wouldn't take a month to get to me. But the last stuff I ordered came quickly. Blue rolls has always been rife with complaints. Most is based vendors are getting all of this from the same place, you just pay that price premium. Also do yourself a favor and grab a couple assorted boxes of the screws you need, 10-50 in a pack for a few bucks each. Way more then you need but useful if you add to this printer or build another.
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Apr 19, 2022 23:06
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I've got a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4k and an Elegoo Saturn, and they're both great printers, I'd say go for it. Watch some YouTube vids and research the printer you end up choosing, and you will get the hang of it fairly quickly. Just be sure to keep it away from curious kids and pets, and make sure to get plenty of nitrile gloves and paper towels, and you'll be set. Perfect. Exactly what I wanted to hear!
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Apr 19, 2022 23:29
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I've got a Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4k and an Elegoo Saturn, and they're both great printers, I'd say go for it. Watch some YouTube vids and research the printer you end up choosing, and you will get the hang of it fairly quickly. Just be sure to keep it away from curious kids and pets, and make sure to get plenty of nitrile gloves and paper towels, and you'll be set. The days of big printers being more fussy are gone. Hell, even the Mega 8k would be fine for a beginner. It’s the only printer that I’ve never had to level and it’s stiff going strong, it’s incredible. But as pointed out, bigger prints means you’ll need to handle bigger washes and curing. You could always just buy a shitload of ipa and a plastic bucket and call it a day. You can cure in the sun if you’re careful not to do it too long. Or if you have a big cardboard box you can get a $15 UV light on Amazon and use that instead. Just make sure it’s 405nm wavelength.
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Apr 19, 2022 23:54
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mewse posted:Since one of you asked for it: I recently built a prusa mk3s+ clone, but instead of buying a kit, like a normal person, I bought all the parts separately because I wanted a specific color combination for the frame + printed parts. Very cool! I considered doing this at first but it seemed way too daunting for me, nice work. About the x axis problem have you checked that there isn't anything sticking out that may trigger the endstop? Also have you learned how to check the belt tension? It can run a check to tell you how tight the belts are: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk3-s_112380/ Also here's a nice easy upgrade: https://www.printables.com/model/62523-delta-p-fan-duct-v2-r2-for-mk3s-extruder Better fan duct and allows a much better view of the nozzle!
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Apr 20, 2022 00:37
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Opinionated posted:About the x axis problem have you checked that there isn't anything sticking out that may trigger the endstop? Yeah.. technically there's no endstops but when I'm sliding the extruder carriage by hand I can feel the resistance increase at the ends. It travels the full extent on both sides without hitting stuff, just feels like tightening at the ends of travel. I got it to pass the self test by re-printing both X ends ("motor" and "idler"), and loosening the screws on the back of the extruder carriage - the screw for the cable post thing was pressing into the lower bearing of the X carriage which was contributing the the problem. Like. I've spent hours messing with it. Once I have linear bearings in hand (and superlube, and applicator) I'm going to tear the whole thing apart and replace all the printed parts constraining the X axis - both X ends, the X carriage, the X carriage "back cover", and hopefully everything will align so this problem is just not there anymore. One thing I did do was originally printed the X ends with 30% infill and 1 or 2 extra perimeters and I think it contributed to the problem by making them too rigid. But I also suspect the dimensions of the X carriage part are wrong because of my jank mk2.5s clone. quote:Also have you learned how to check the belt tension? It can run a check to tell you how tight the belts are: https://help.prusa3d.com/en/article/adjusting-belt-tension-mk3-s_112380/ The latest printed parts have a m3x30 screw on the back of the x-motor part that can tension up the motor, I tried all variations of belt tension to fix the axis problem (like borderline too loose to borderline too tight) and unfortunately didn't fix the problem. quote:Also here's a nice easy upgrade: https://www.printables.com/model/62523-delta-p-fan-duct-v2-r2-for-mk3s-extruder Better fan duct and allows a much better view of the nozzle! That is really cool, I might get that hooked up eventually. With the longer ducts I suspect the fan might be quieter too. Thanks!
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Apr 20, 2022 00:53
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Ragnar Gunvald posted:I want a 3d printer, I have no reason to get one, I don't need one. I just think they're cool and I wanna mess about with it. Just make sure you really pay attention to the safety hazards of resins used in resin 3d printers and you'll be ok. Don't be that guy on YouTube aerosolizing 3d printing resin via airbrush to attempt to smooth the appearance of a bad model he printed. Edit: But seriously, do not gently caress around with resins. They are literally industrial toxic chemicals that will gently caress you up if you disrespect them.
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Apr 20, 2022 01:03
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I'm currently waiting for a replacement hotend for my Ender 3, can't help but wonder, maybe it's time for a big printer. Are belt printers reasonable yet or still gimmick territory? biracial bear for uncut posted:Don't be that guy on YouTube aerosolizing 3d printing resin via airbrush to attempt to smooth the appearance of a bad model he printed. Is that guy still At Large or has the consequence of his actions caught up yet?
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Apr 20, 2022 01:25
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mewse posted:Since one of you asked for it: I recently built a prusa mk3s+ clone, but instead of buying a kit, like a normal person, I bought all the parts separately because I wanted a specific color combination for the frame + printed parts. Thank you! I do like the colour of the frame. I have tried Igus bearings before, of various types, and they're a pain in the arse to use on a machine without tight alignments. I found any time the parallel rails were out of alignment, it would result in sticking or resistance. And they didn't work with sensorless homing for me either, the force required to start them moving would trip up my TMCs. I never did find a value for the detection that worked properly. Even quality LM8UUs are dirt cheap, and easier to use. mewse posted:- Price for building piecemeal seems like a fool's game vs buying fysetc/triangle labs kit and targeted upgrades I've heard this. I know a guy who swears by the Fysetc kits, and refuses to buy Prusa genuine anymore. He has a room full of both, and he insists the Fysetc units are more reliable and have fewer failures, and in some cases producing better prints. Anecdata for sure.
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Apr 20, 2022 03:08
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Serenade posted:I'm currently waiting for a replacement hotend for my Ender 3, can't help but wonder, maybe it's time for a big printer. Are belt printers reasonable yet or still gimmick territory? I'd say belt printers are kind of a gimmick, however they do seem to work to make long things or many things. For your every day printing they're not as handy as a normal printer because it seems like there's a bit more loving around with the nozzle height and bed/belt adhesion. If you want to print a lot of long things or have a run of a lot of things that would work well on a belt printer they might be a good solution, but if you just want a big printer I wouldn't add the belt complexity to that.
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Apr 20, 2022 04:27
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Serenade posted:I'm currently waiting for a replacement hotend for my Ender 3, can't help but wonder, maybe it's time for a big printer. Are belt printers reasonable yet or still gimmick territory? Prusa XL preorder crew checking in
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Apr 20, 2022 04:36
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Been lurking for a bit waiting for my Sovol SV01 to arrive. Showed up today and I'm more than stoked. First print with the PLA it came with:  The annoying line near the bottom may or may not have been caused by me smacking the print bed with my phone while taking video of it  and the chunk out of the corner by my hastiness with the spatula to get it off and run around the house showing the dog and cat how cool this stupid cube is.Other than those obvious defects caused by my own dumb rear end, any glaring issues here? Details: generic-as-generic-gets PLA 200c nozzle temp 60c bed temp 50mm/s print speed 0.2mm layer height 20% inflil EDIT: A very stringy Benchy  Printed this one at 210c. Thinking I should dial that back? Will try again tomorrow CH Science fucked around with this message at 06:20 on Apr 20, 2022 |
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Apr 20, 2022 04:53
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snail posted:I have tried Igus bearings before, of various types, and they're a pain in the arse to use on a machine without tight alignments. I found any time the parallel rails were out of alignment, it would result in sticking or resistance. And they didn't work with sensorless homing for me either, the force required to start them moving would trip up my TMCs. I never did find a value for the detection that worked properly. Even quality LM8UUs are dirt cheap, and easier to use. Ok, good to know I'm not the only one struggling with the igus. I have a bunch of linear bearings showing up tomorrow with a tube of superlube and I've already already printed the applicator. quote:I've heard this. I know a guy who swears by the Fysetc kits, and refuses to buy Prusa genuine anymore. He has a room full of both, and he insists the Fysetc units are more reliable and have fewer failures, and in some cases producing better prints. Anecdata for sure. Also very good to know! I don't know anyone who has built the kit and didn't trust the word of random youtubers. If the fysetc kit is good, kit + superpinda + satin sheet from Prusa would be a drat good mk3s+ for not much money.
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Apr 20, 2022 06:42
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Serenade posted:I'm currently waiting for a replacement hotend for my Ender 3, can't help but wonder, maybe it's time for a big printer. Are belt printers reasonable yet or still gimmick territory? Belt printers aren't a big printer, they're a long printer. My heavily modded CR-30 is 200m x ∞mm x 230mm . Technically infinite Z, I write it that way to make it clear you're printing parts on their side stuck to the Y axis. It is a drat fine printer, but you do need to skew some of your process understanding in a weird direction along with the understanding of how supports and leading walls work. Would I suggest it? Not really, I do like it a lot though and can do some really neat things with it very quickly. Want a adult sized Zelda Master sword in 2 hours? Fo sho, I'll print one off for you. A figurine? Nar, forget it, it's not worth the pain. What are you wanting to print that's big? Printing big is its own set of problems and challenges, of which time is certainly one. If you can break a big object into parts, you're often better off having multiple printers and joining the parts together in a post process. Anytime I go for the full size on my Voron, I find I'm swapping out to a spare 0.8mm nozzle to get it done before the heat death of the universe, even with the stupidly high speeds the machine can do. Greebles and other bits of detail can be done on a resin printer and glued on.
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Apr 20, 2022 07:07
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swampface posted:The thing that has led me down this whole path is that even with the super-pinda "bed leveling", I can not get a consistent first layer. The first layer calibration will have wildly different thicknesses of first layer bead at different points of the bed. Even if I do get a calibration where it's somewhere in the middle, z-height wise, some prints start with the nozzle touching the bed, and if I restart the same print sometimes it'll be perfect, other times it's digging a groove through the sheet with the tip of the nozzle. There is absolutely no consistency or precision to it and it's driving me up the wall. That's some bad behavior. So, comparing it to the minis I regularly use, while I can move it and force some deflection, there's no obvious slop. What's your average z offset? The ones I use are between .6 to .7. This number could be very different depending on how the probe was aligned with the nozzle of course. I've never really heard of it, (though I can't say I've really gone out looking) but I'm curious to know if it would be possible for a defective probe to cause that kind of behavior. I suppose missed steps could also cause the printer to have similar issues. Could you post a first layer? This may be a job best handled by their support team.
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Apr 20, 2022 07:20
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Was having some issues with my printer just... not putting filament out. Turns out it had snapped in the bowden tube; was pretty easy to take apart and clear.  Chugging along doing test prints with PLA for now; I'm not good at visualising stuff in my head so helps to have a prototype to move around, make notes, on, and then iterate. Filament's cheap and I kinda feel like my printer is robbing me if it's not working, so I don't mind too much. Still waiting on replacement thermistor to see if that'll stop the runaway error when I try to get it up to ABS temps. I'm hoping it does; I'm off work the next week and a half and will actually be around to babysit some of the longer prints I want to do. CH Science posted:EDIT: A very stringy Benchy Spiderman strikes again! Yeah, I'd try 200C, is what works for me with bargain basement eBay PLA.
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Apr 20, 2022 07:37
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Serenade posted:I have replaced my FEP film and now nothing will print successfully. I didn't have my settings down perfectly before swapping films, but it wasn't a 100% failure rate. The last test print I tired was 5 objects of 1-5 layers each and they all stuck to the film. Did you peel the protective layer off both sides of the FEP? Because I've certainly never forgotten to do that. Not once.
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Apr 20, 2022 14:20
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Gdi I just bought a Photon Mono 6k and now Phrozen has got to come out and do this. I knew it would happen, but I didn't think it would be so quickly and at such a good freaking price. How much of a difference does that extra 0.09 microns of xy resolution make, really?
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Apr 20, 2022 14:30
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The real appeal of a big printer to me is in furniture making. I highly doubt anything fully 3d printed will be viable, but I think there's potential in 3d printed components supplementing other materials. Like the seat of a chair: a complex topography with a lot of ergonomic implications. For this example, it is likely that the build area of an Ender 3 is just as good as a Prusa XL's or a belt printer, in that you'd have to print and join a few parts anyway. But when designing parts, it's also very easy to see your current limitations and think that removing them will suddenly make things easy.Deviant posted:Did you peel the protective layer off both sides of the FEP? I don't legally have to answer that question. And now I'm not going to do anything in particular to my resin printer, its FEP film, and I definitely won't have anything to report on after the fact.
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Apr 20, 2022 14:51
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Serenade posted:I don't legally have to answer that question. And now I'm not going to do anything in particular to my resin printer, its FEP film, and I definitely won't have anything to report on after the fact. grats on printing a giant resin butthole.
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Apr 20, 2022 14:58
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Serenade posted:The real appeal of a big printer to me is in furniture making. I highly doubt anything fully 3d printed will be viable, but I think there's potential in 3d printed components supplementing other materials. Like the seat of a chair: a complex topography with a lot of ergonomic implications. For this example, it is likely that the build area of an Ender 3 is just as good as a Prusa XL's or a belt printer, in that you'd have to print and join a few parts anyway. But when designing parts, it's also very easy to see your current limitations and think that removing them will suddenly make things easy. Big printer is relative. Even the 'big' consumer printers are not really making big things that you need to break up anyway. What is 200mm vs 300 vs 350 when you want to print large things, you still need to use chunks. I have seen corexy printers built into something like a walk in freezer that can truly print at awesome scale, but they have their own issues.
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Apr 20, 2022 15:17
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Aurium posted:That's some bad behavior. They're sending me a new trapezoidal nut and I ordered a handful more so hopefully that'll sort out my problem. It is so easy to bind up the Z axis with the current parts that missed steps could definitely part of the problem. I've managed to get it to complete the XYZ self calibration then be unable to move the Z axis up more than halfway immediately after. If the new nut doesn't solve my issues I'll be looking to see if the probe could be having issues next, but one thing at a time.
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Apr 20, 2022 17:08
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swampface posted:They're sending me a new trapezoidal nut and I ordered a handful more so hopefully that'll sort out my problem. It is so easy to bind up the Z axis with the current parts that missed steps could definitely part of the problem. I've managed to get it to complete the XYZ self calibration then be unable to move the Z axis up more than halfway immediately after. I hesitate to bring it up but it did look like from your videos that the lead screw is bent (it wavers against that line you put on the paper under it)
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Apr 20, 2022 17:17
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