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Hadlock posted:I guess they are? I haven't mentioned them once in this thread so i'm not sure what point i'm defending here. They exist in california but I dunno if I'd call them prolific, except in Palo Alto, and I guess SF and Berkely. I guess they're building more than half a million cars a year now? I guess their total global production puts them squarely in line with BMW american sales, based on some cursory searches for US sales they are extremely prolific. they are all over the place in the bay area, and probably socal too. im down in san jose and sometimes it seems like every other car is one of theirs. that is an exaggeration, but in terms of domestic sedans, they're highly represented. my only point is that i don't buy that nobody here drives american sedans. the roads are flush with them, even if they might not be the majority anyway i think ive repeated my point several times now, so i will leave it at that unless you have strong feelings to the contrary ryanrs posted:How do I spray paint metal? Talking flat black out of a can, not fancy automotive paint. ive been shooting stuff with just the appliance epoxy, without primer, and it seems ok so far. probably others have better opinions. the appliance epoxy only comes in gloss, though, and im not running through as uh harsh of an environment as you are. so im not sure how the durability compares to a more "proper" two part system
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Apr 16, 2022 07:59
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ryanrs posted:How do I spray paint metal? Talking flat black out of a can, not fancy automotive paint. I'm sure the 'proper' way to do this is to sandblast it and powder coat it but I would:
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 08:25 on Apr 16, 2022 |
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Apr 16, 2022 08:23
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If it isn't something that is rare or needs a proper restoration, I bet Rustoleum black will do a great job keeping rust away and keep it looking black. Really the most important bit is to have the part as clean and free of oils and silicone as possible because no matter what the paint is, this will gently caress up the paint job.
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Apr 16, 2022 12:45
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pnac attack posted:2000 honda accord, driver's door won't open. happened out of nowhere, no external damage or anything. just got out, went into a store, couldn't get back in. acts like it's stuck locked, wondering if anyone has a trick for getting the door open so i can pull the panel off to fix the latch that opens the door. tried a locksmith, they told me slim jims "weren't really a thing anymore" and didn't know anything beyond how to use an air shim. I had a similar issue with my 2002 golf before I got rid of it, and the advice I would give is look for youtube videos of other people with the same issue. The quality will be wildly inconsistent but after watching a handful of videos you'll get a decent idea of what to expect
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Apr 16, 2022 13:00
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I gather, then, that inside & outside latches don't work or are 'sticky.' Have you tried cycling the lock? Manually? It sounds like it's stuck in the locked position and/or one of the lock or door latch pushrod retainers failed.
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Apr 16, 2022 14:18
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ryanrs posted:How do I spray paint metal? Talking flat black out of a can, not fancy automotive paint. Scuff everything with a red scotch Brite pad. Clean it throughly, then clean it again. I do a final wipe with sprayway glass cleaner and a white paper towel (Scott's in a box) until it comes back still white without anything on it. Primer, paint, and don't disturb it for days. Appliance epoxy in a can is a good recommendation. Hammered finish is good too, provides cover for surface imperfections.
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Apr 16, 2022 14:42
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pnac attack posted:2000 honda accord, driver's door won't open. happened out of nowhere, no external damage or anything. just got out, went into a store, couldn't get back in. acts like it's stuck locked, wondering if anyone has a trick for getting the door open so i can pull the panel off to fix the latch that opens the door. tried a locksmith, they told me slim jims "weren't really a thing anymore" and didn't know anything beyond how to use an air shim. oh yeah, sanity check on this: is the door shut all the way lol ive had doors kinda stick halfway closed, where the door wont open because the latch isnt engaged far enough for the release to do anything, but it's engaged far enough to hold the door closed. so try shoving the door all the way shut and see if that helps 
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Apr 16, 2022 19:34
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spankmeister posted:I had a similar issue with my 2002 golf before I got rid of it, and the advice I would give is look for youtube videos of other people with the same issue. The quality will be wildly inconsistent but after watching a handful of videos you'll get a decent idea of what to expect on it. so far the most popular strat seems to be "break the door panel", along with confirming it's going to be an incredibly simple fix once i actually get in there PainterofCrap posted:I gather, then, that inside & outside latches don't work or are 'sticky.' Have you tried cycling the lock? Manually? It sounds like it's stuck in the locked position and/or one of the lock or door latch pushrod retainers failed. yes i've tried cycling the lock lol, unfortunately not quite *that* stupid of a question. tried it with the key, central locking switch, and just grabbing the nub on the door. latch handles feel great but do nothing, door nub is *way* easier than the other doors to pull up into unlocked position (as if it's disconnected). like 99% sure it's stuck locked Raluek posted:oh yeah, sanity check on this: is the door shut all the way lol i got mad and shook it like a monkey, no dice. it's perfectly latched and locked, mocking me as i climb through the passenger side
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Apr 16, 2022 19:49
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See if you can get a pic of the door with the cover off and look at where the metal arms are and then aim for them with a metal coat hanger
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Apr 16, 2022 20:07
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rolling down the window and looking down the slot with a flashlight might help too idk how that car is constructed, but if it's like mine, you might be able to pull some of the trim/felt off at the top of the door (it clips on for me) and give yourself a bit of extra room to work
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Apr 16, 2022 20:14
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Honda Accord door problem: dumb question, but did you try both the interior and exterior door handles? If a clip connecting the exterior handle to the latch broke, the interior handle should still work. Similarly, did you try manipulating the door lock with the key in the lock cylinder and via the little plunger that goes up and down? If you did all of these actions, did any of them feel odd? Like too easy or much harder than usual?
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Apr 18, 2022 15:53
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Blowjob Overtime posted:My 2006 Honda Accord (V6, automatic) suddenly won't start this morning. The starter is going when I turn the key, it just doesn't....take. It is behaving how I would expect if it was out of gas. Blowjob Overtime posted:Update: clicked to on and heard the hum. Pulled the coil to do the spark test and now realizing I never actually pulled the plug to check for gas smell, which may be moot after the next bit. Put a spare plug on the coil and had my wife turn it over. First time she didn't go very long, and I thought I saw a spark at the end. Had her go again for a five count, and not only did I see spark on the one I was testing, the engine started up. The spark on the spare plug I had connected seemed consistent. Never closed the loop on this: it was the fuel pump.
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Apr 18, 2022 19:44
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I am trying to use a multimeter tach to measure the idle speed of a 1cyl bike but the multimeter doesnt have a 1cyl option, only 3cyl, 4, 6, 8. Can I use the 4 cyl option and just multiply the number by 4?
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Apr 18, 2022 23:51
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It depends on what the multimeter is reading and how your ignition system is configured. Is the meter hooked onto a single spark plug lead? Does the motorcycle have a wasted spark system? I'd say just put it in 4cyl mode and see if the numbers make any sense. You should have an idea of whether it's idling at closer to 1000 RPM or 2000 RPM, for instance, and if the number seems wrong just halve or double it.
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Apr 19, 2022 01:17
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Blowjob Overtime posted:Never closed the loop on this: it was the fuel pump. Always good to know we're on the right track, thanks for checking in 
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Apr 19, 2022 03:52
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Sagebrush posted:Does the motorcycle have a wasted spark system? Honest to god I was going to attempt some lame joke asking if the 1 cylinder engine has a wasted spark system until I read your response. Now I'm wondering if indeed, it could.
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Apr 19, 2022 10:55
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C-Bangin' it 
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Sagebrush posted:It depends on what the multimeter is reading and how your ignition system is configured. Is the meter hooked onto a single spark plug lead? Does the motorcycle have a wasted spark system? I didn't know wasted spark was a thing... I'm not sure though. The bike is a Honda ct90, so pretty basic 4 stroke. It would make most sense to multiply the number by 4. I'm having trouble getting the bike to run at idle speed and multiplying by 4 means the bike runs nice at 1800-2000rpm but the nominal idle speed according to the shop manual is 1300. I think it could have something to do with the throttle slide pin.
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Apr 19, 2022 12:03
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What do they call those analog tachometers that use resonant frequency or something to show you the rpm? I wonder if you could find one that has a 0-2000 rpm range for cheap.
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Apr 19, 2022 12:50
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Just googled it and it's called a vibrating tachometer? And some use reeds for measurement. That's nutty. I'll probably stop being anal and just work through the whole thing by ear. The motor siblings with some lawnmower engines.
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Apr 19, 2022 13:30
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a dingus posted:Just googled it and it's called a vibrating tachometer? And some use reeds for measurement. That's nutty. I'll probably stop being anal and just work through the whole thing by ear. The motor siblings with some lawnmower engines. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0756VGDTC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Those work pretty great for small engines also.
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Apr 19, 2022 15:29
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Colostomy Bag posted:Honest to god I was going to attempt some lame joke asking if the 1 cylinder engine has a wasted spark system until I read your response. Now I'm wondering if indeed, it could. It certainly could, if for some reason the spark pickup/points/etc ran off the crank instead of the camshaft. Maybe there's an engine like that out there somewhere? a dingus posted:I didn't know wasted spark was a thing... I'm not sure though. The bike is a Honda ct90, so pretty basic 4 stroke. It would make most sense to multiply the number by 4. That engine's ignition runs off the camshaft, so it's not a wasted spark. If it won't idle at the lower speed, your pilot jet is probably clogged. When was the last time you flushed the carburetors out, and how long has it been sitting around? Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Apr 19, 2022 |
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Apr 19, 2022 15:38
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I have a kinda weird question for any Aus and NZ goons here: When you think of, "bread truck", what comes to mind? Alternatively, what about Frito-Lay/Smith's trucks? Text description or pics, old trucks or new.
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Apr 19, 2022 16:18
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 Bread truck? Or is this a dough truck
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Apr 19, 2022 16:28
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Have you tried using a phone audio spectometer app? In principle there should be a frequency spike at the RPM
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Apr 19, 2022 18:59
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I have a garage door opener. It is a replacement for the original opener that came with the house. I installed it but I didn't mess around with the bank robbery laser beam trip wire sensors. I just used the old ones. After the fact I built some wooden shrouds for the sensors to keep them from getting kicked or otherwise jostled. Anyway, twice in the last week the opener refused to shut the garage door. Both times were at sunset. When it happened yesterday I tried for several minutes to get the door to close without success. What worked was standing outside the garage and holding a shovel so that the sensor receiving a full blast of sideways sunlight was shaded from the setting sun. The door shut on the first try when I did this. So what is the easy way to get this to stop? Is there some kind of sunglasses or tinted condom or something I can put on the sensor that will help it shrug off sunlight without disrupting its ability to receive the beam from the other sensor unit?
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Apr 19, 2022 23:05
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Strategically positioned flap of cardboard taped to the sensor eye like a horse blinder so the only light it can receive is the laser from the other side of the door. Maybe a cardboard toilet paper roll.
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Apr 19, 2022 23:13
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Sagebrush posted:It certainly could, if for some reason the spark pickup/points/etc ran off the crank instead of the camshaft. Maybe there's an engine like that out there somewhere? I think there was some garbage in the main jet where the throttle pin sits and inside the mixture screw holes. I blew both of them out and it seems to run better although I don't want to say perfect, yet. It was idling ok but once I took it around the block and really reved it out a little it seemed to run smoothly at a normal idle speed. The bike is new to me and although the PO had a garage full of bikes & was some sort of Ford mechanic for a while I don't trust anything until Ive gone through it all. Tunicate posted:Have you tried using a phone audio spectometer app? In principle there should be a frequency spike at the RPM This is a good idea that I would have never thought of.
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Apr 20, 2022 00:03
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1000 rpm is only 16.67 Hz though. I doubt microphones can pick up that frequency. However, you might be able to look at the audio recording itself and count the pulses?
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Apr 20, 2022 00:28
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you can also try the accelerometer spectrometer too I guess. I just have a lovely cheap app that spectrometerizes all the inputs
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Apr 20, 2022 00:31
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Tunicate posted:you can also try the accelerometer spectrometer too I guess. I just have a lovely cheap app that spectrometerizes all the inputs I did that as a high school project, way back in the day! Accelerometer on the block, A/D, FFT. Worked great at idle, but above that, every piece of poo poo bolted to the engine starts buzzing at its own resonant frequency and you get a bunch of garbage. And that's when parked in neutral; I'm sure it's worse if you're actually driving. More sophisticated signal processing should help, but it's not an obviously simple problem.
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Apr 20, 2022 00:43
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PBCrunch posted:Anyway, twice in the last week the opener refused to shut the garage door. Both times were at sunset. When it happened yesterday I tried for several minutes to get the door to close without success. What worked was standing outside the garage and holding a shovel so that the sensor receiving a full blast of sideways sunlight was shaded from the setting sun. The door shut on the first try when I did this. Short term, most door openers will let you force them to close if you hold the wall button (you'll need to hold it the entire time it's closing until it's fully closed, otherwise it'll re-open). Won't be able to do it with the remote.
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Apr 20, 2022 03:34
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Sagebrush posted:It certainly could, if for some reason the spark pickup/points/etc ran off the crank instead of the camshaft. Maybe there's an engine like that out there somewhere? Now that I think about it probably every push mower out there.
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Apr 20, 2022 11:31
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STR posted:Short term, most door openers will let you force them to close if you hold the wall button (you'll need to hold it the entire time it's closing until it's fully closed, otherwise it'll re-open). Won't be able to do it with the remote.
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Apr 20, 2022 15:23
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Colostomy Bag posted:Now that I think about it probably every push mower out there. Yeah, it occurs to me that every single cylinder engine that uses magneto ignition probably has a wasted spark, because the magneto is usually incorporated into the flywheel.
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Apr 20, 2022 16:33
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PBCrunch posted:I have a garage door opener. It is a replacement for the original opener that came with the house. I installed it but I didn't mess around with the bank robbery laser beam trip wire sensors. I just used the old ones. After the fact I built some wooden shrouds for the sensors to keep them from getting kicked or otherwise jostled. I had this problem once and fixed it with a strategically placed notecard and rubber band. Not pretty but it provided enough shade to make things work in the afternoon.
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Apr 20, 2022 18:00
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Tape a toilet paper tube to the sensor so it can only receive the signal from the light on the other side.
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Apr 20, 2022 18:43
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Jeep Patriot 2016 2.4L engine I bought this vehicle used from a dealership. I've had regular tire rotations/replacements, brake work when needed, and oil changes every time the light comes on. The folks at Grease Monkey top off fluids and check for whatever poo poo they check for and it always comes back OK. I've replaced the throttle body unit and power steering pump when those failed. But I've done nothing else to upkeep the car. I don't know much about cars and I didn't really have any sort of maintenance schedule. Currently it's a bit slow to turn over but hasn't failed to do so yet and the transmission (I think?) has started to get a bit "lurchy," especially at lower RPM. Otherwise it works great. Basically I'd like to get some preventative maintenance done but I have no idea what I should ask for. I don't want to get taken advantage of, but I also understand it won't be cheap. I'd really appreciate any advice with regards to what I should have done and a rough estimate of what I might be looking at, which will be helpful when I talk to my local mechaincs. Once again, thank you!
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Apr 20, 2022 19:08
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Eejit posted:Jeep Patriot 2016 2.4L engine If you have the owner's manual, there should be a table in the back of recommended maintenance schedules. I'm generally in the "don't fix it before it breaks" camp with most stuff that's not consumables. You probably have the original battery, which would be pretty crusty by now and would explain the slow turnover. You may want to price out a replacement before it dies so you're prepared for it. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Apr 20, 2022 |
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Apr 20, 2022 19:14
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nitsuga posted:Most shops do offer some kind of warranty, though the terms and all that vary widely. I hope they are able to do something for you, as it sounds some failure of the hydraulic system, which I remember getting repaired to some degree when it was first in. Personally, I don't know that I'd go writing off the car just yet, but I don't know its full history. It might be a good time to sell, but it's also a terrible time to buy. Just wanted to follow up on that bolded comment. I did sell the RS for an E91 of dubious reliability 2 weeks ago. The dealer has since called me back asking if I had any clutch issues with the car, because now the pedal is sticking to the floor [again] after I had the master cylinder replaced 500 miles ago. I reminded him that when I traded it in, I mentioned replacing the clutch and numerous other things  Maybe this wagon will bite me in the rear end, but so far I'm extremely happy with it. I wish I didn't "have" to get rid of that Focus, but BOY am I glad it's not my loving problem any more.
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Apr 20, 2022 19:28
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You could probably do the plugs yourself as well. Don't know when it was last changed so chances are, they weren't and you're due. Do use a torque wrench. Do buy NGK or Denso Do use precious metal spark plugs Do not use antiseize Do not measure or regap plugs yourself
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