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I've been getting into oils and my current process is: 1) Prime and base layer with acrylics 2) Apply a layer of gloss varnish so the rubbing in the follwing step does not damage my base layer 3) Paint over with oil paints and remove most of it with cotton sticks This leaves me with this result, that I am quite happy with  It might not be apperant by looking at the picture, but the transitions between the acrylic base layer (cream) and oil paint (brown red) are also transitions between gloss and matt finish. Normally I varnish my models as I want me and my friends to handle them as much as possible with our greasy hands, but in this case I am reluctant as the varnish will likely kill the effect. Is this a bad idea? I have this notion that oils are a bit more robust than acrylics, but I would hate for the paint to chip off or be smudged around.
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Apr 18, 2022 11:17
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Finished some plague drones for an age of sigmar maggitkin army. 
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Apr 18, 2022 13:22
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mllaneza posted:Do edge highlighting on the helmet and beard to make the "face" pop. Then do the same for the tabard over the mail on both the green and blue figure. That should make the core elements of the mini stand out and draw the whole thing together. Oh, sorry. Yes the only thing that is highlighted is the chain mail and weapon because I was messing with space Wolves contrast to see if it make NMM easier. It's more the color of the cloaks themselves. If they are too green they look too woodelves but adding blue makes them go turquoise which seems too bright for GOT greyjoys.
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Apr 18, 2022 14:06
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How are the GoT minis? I've been thinking of picking up a starter pack but there isn't much talk on the boards. Is the game fun? Hows the mini quality?
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Apr 18, 2022 15:00
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blue collar orc posted:I've been getting into oils and my current process is: You can varnish it, and then make the glossiness difference with brush on varnish
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Apr 18, 2022 16:44
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Marx Headroom posted:How are the GoT minis? I've been thinking of picking up a starter pack but there isn't much talk on the boards. Is the game fun? Hows the mini quality? I don't play the game but I know they just put a rules update so the game isn't abandoned. As for the minis they are okay. They are mono pose so for 12 minis there will be 3-4 poses. But the newer poses are quite dynamic especially the greyjoys which is the starter set I got. I did paint a squad of night watch where I modified their weapon or added a hood or shield to differentiate them but you will need bits so YMMV. The "print" quality is a bit spotty in some places. If you look on the inner arm chainmail of the green cloak guy the chains just kinda stop. It's probably a combination of the sculpt and how many times that mold has been used. I can take more pictures of the unpainted ( well zenithal primed ) minis if you want.
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Apr 18, 2022 17:06
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are there any decent online shops (not ebay) that have a good stock of vintage warhammer fantasy miniatures? i want to expand my warhammer quest bestiary with more models that have a similar asthetic.
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Apr 18, 2022 17:14
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There are a lot of oldhammer trading groups on Facebook. That's probably your best shot.
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Apr 18, 2022 18:11
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blue collar orc posted:I've been getting into oils and my current process is: You can actually skip the varnish step between acrylic -> oil if you want to save time, it's pretty hard to rub off an acrylic layer that has dried unless you're really going hard with cotton sticks that are secretly steel wool. But yeah, oil paints often dry glossy so you will lose some effect but people varnish oil paintings to protect them so that's between you, your oil paint brand and God to figure out.
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Apr 18, 2022 20:06
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I've been looking at both Army Painter's warpaints and Vallejo as my go to paints, since those two seem to be the most reasonably priced here in Finland and easy to acquire. What are people's experiences with the two ranges? I have heard mixed veiws on Army Painter's range due to them being too thin/bad consistency, but also that's due to people not removing the initial medium beforehand. And if mixed well are very good. Vallejo meanwhile is a bit more expensive does seem to be more consistent and might be my go to just since they sound easier to start off with.
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Apr 19, 2022 01:02
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Vallejo every time
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Apr 19, 2022 01:10
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I personally think the vallejo stuff is consistently amazing. Both their model color and game color lines are really useful with good coverage and fun colors. Of the two choices I would pick vallejo over AP, any day of the week. Hell, I often pick vallejo over any other brand
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Apr 19, 2022 01:11
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Wolfsbane posted:There are a lot of oldhammer trading groups on Facebook. That's probably your best shot. i assume this is because old people still own all the vintage citadel minis. oh well not gonna join facebook for that. i saw a youtube video where british nerds were able to just go to a little shop full of all kinds of crazy vintage bits and paid like almost nothing for them. really wish i had something like that in texas
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Apr 19, 2022 01:50
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MasterBuilder posted:I can take more pictures of the unpainted ( well zenithal primed ) minis if you want. I'm good thanks, the stuff you already posted looks good to me! The fact that they're releasing new rule sets is encouraging. You gotta pay people to make those.
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Apr 19, 2022 02:03
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Absolutely in love with this base look, please someone tell me how to do it or why it turned out so good and how I can do it myself. I love how powdery it looks.
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Apr 19, 2022 03:55
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I would say the simplest way is prime black, mid zenithal blue, top zenithal purple then aggressively block out the darkest shadowed areas with dark grey. Then start eating into the blue areas with the dark grey to create that camouflage-like pattern and do the same with the blue into the purple. Do your highlighting and shading then hit it with a matte varnish to make it look matte and powdery. The major issue with this route is that airbrushing gives you both blends that are too smooth and also the telltale micro dotting at transitions. At first glance what they actually did is probably just prime black, lay down blotches of blue on areas light would fall then highlight a smaller part of those areas with purple. Way more time consuming and you don't get to cheat light placement by just airbrushing a zenithal. Then matte varnish.
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Apr 19, 2022 04:41
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Eej posted:I would say the simplest way is prime black, mid zenithal blue, top zenithal purple then aggressively block out the darkest shadowed areas with dark grey. Then start eating into the blue areas with the dark grey to create that camouflage-like pattern and do the same with the blue into the purple. Do your highlighting and shading then hit it with a matte varnish to make it look matte and powdery. The major issue with this route is that airbrushing gives you both blends that are too smooth and also the telltale micro dotting at transitions. I just realized I wasn't clear - I don't care about the model at all, I just meant the base, that purple/blue rocky look they got that looks effortlessly v a p o r w a v e. If that's what you were talking about I apologize but it sounds like you're talking about Daredevil (I am bad and stupid about models so I apologize if you're just talking over my head)
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Apr 19, 2022 04:56
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Spray blue all over, spray purple directly downwards, sprinkle pink pigment powder of your choice and done.
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Apr 19, 2022 06:10
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Stipple with a drybrush
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Apr 19, 2022 12:09
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 Done in oil (except for the wing glow, forgot until the end and didn't want to redo so just airbrushed)
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Apr 19, 2022 14:40
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Heads up, AP Speedpaints are now sold separately as well, if anyone else is concerned about certain colors getting used up much sooner than others.
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Apr 19, 2022 15:29
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Pierzak posted:Heads up, AP Speedpaints are now sold separately as well, if anyone else is concerned about certain colors getting used up much sooner than others. Has anyone used the Speedpaint version of Basilicanum Grey? and if so how does it compare? I'm running low on it and wondering if I should replace it with speed paint.
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Apr 19, 2022 16:16
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edit: OP answered my question
Partial Octopus fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Apr 19, 2022 |
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Apr 19, 2022 20:45
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Bucnasti posted:Has anyone used the Speedpaint version of Basilicanum Grey? and if so how does it compare? I'm running low on it and wondering if I should replace it with speed paint. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=srUSz8cPqTo&t=886s I set it up at the exact time she discusses greys.
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Apr 19, 2022 21:40
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Indolent Bastard posted:I set it up at the exact time she discusses greys. 
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Apr 19, 2022 22:00
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Test model for a CSM kill team, it's all contrast over some zenithal drybrushed metal undercoat, with some touchups afterward of drybrushing
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Apr 20, 2022 01:43
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I primed some models today and the primer is a bit gritty, windy af, and a new brand of spray can. Am I a terrible man if I just keep moving forward and fix the issue on the next set and the giant pile of terrain I’m working on. It’s five space marines for a kill team game I hope to play with my wife.
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Apr 20, 2022 01:54
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marines get 6 guys per kill team now 
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Apr 20, 2022 02:01
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Spanish Manlove posted:marines get 6 guys per kill team now I’m slow and just starting to finish assembling and painting the old set with Space Barbie’s and Robots. Of course two boxes of terrain didn’t help…
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Apr 20, 2022 02:35
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So I've been seeing how awesome this is https://www.goblinshut.com/product/dirtydowrust/1?cs=true&cst=custom But, it's $28 shipped, which is a bit expensive for one 25ml bottle. Is there a cheaper way to make the same effect myself?
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Apr 20, 2022 03:52
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GreenBuckanneer posted:So I've been seeing how awesome this is This seems to be rusting solution that activates purely from exposure to the moisture in the air, which is interesting. It does say the effect can be enhanced with applications of water, so it does seem to mostly be fairly standard rusting solution. There are other solutions out there, at local craft shops like Michaels, or online. Prices are generally about the same as the Goblins Hut product though, so you could maybe save some money if you get a good Michaels coupon and can shop locally. Most of the alternatives are two-part systems though. So you paint on a metallic paint first, and then apply the rusting solution after. I've used the Sophisticated finishes product linked below, and had good results. https://www.amazon.com/Triangle-Coa...ps%2C116&sr=8-3
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Apr 20, 2022 04:17
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 I'm trying earnestly at layering and it's coming out OK, but the effect isn't coming out well on camera either in my light box or my boom lights. I'll try later with my dslr but it's kind of disappointing because the layering looks good but then looks worse on camera
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Apr 20, 2022 05:52
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Don't stress it too much, the real life experience of a model is way more important than what shows up on the internet tbh.
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Apr 20, 2022 05:56
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Also, until you get into doing really precise poo poo, photos will always look worse than what you see in person, simply as a result of the photo being so much larger than the original model and allowing you to see things that weren't really noticeable at a smaller scale.
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Apr 20, 2022 06:02
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GreenBuckanneer posted:So I've been seeing how awesome this is Depending on how much of the rust effect you want to be doing the GW Technical paint - Typhus Corrosion produces a pretty neat effect over metallics that might work for what you have in mind. I haven't compared the price per ml though.
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Apr 20, 2022 08:01
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GreenBuckanneer posted:So I've been seeing how awesome this is I have this (and their moss effect) and its absolutely loving magic stuff. Like an absolute joy to use. It just seems to be about what it costs in the US, but they have a list of dealers on the dirty down website, you could try shopping around a bit and you might save a few bucks. I'm in the UK so its way cheaper as they are a UK company so no import fees or anything. If you were in the UK I'd cheerfully recommend it at £9 a bottle (Glad I got it a while back, I think I paid less than £7...) but at $25+ its a harder sell. Its a really good, really easy rust solution, but... You can do perfectly good rusting with sepia and orange washes, or with typhus corrosion (and possibly a bit of orange drybrushing) or stippling brown and orange paints, or using red and brown paints as an undercoat and using masking fluid, theres a million and one tutorials on youtube, whoever your favourite hobby youtuber is probably has at least one. They wont look the same but they will look like rust. I'd say its more realistic looking that those techniques (at least when I try them!) but realism is kind of overrated when you are painting 35 mm fantasy wizards and orks, and those techniques all are realistic enough when not placed next to actual real rust that they work fine. They just take slightly more technique than "slap on this one paint, maybe drybrush it over the surface and/or feather the edges a bit and call it a day". I havent tried/seen the product Bloody Hedgehog linked to before so cant directly compare it, but the dirty down stuff just goes straight on whatever paint you have already put down. I'd say that when it says water enhances the effect I dont think its water activated in any way, its more that you can use water to vary the concentration and so easily achieve a varied rust across a surface. I've not used it in a couple of months, but I dont think I'm misremembering. GreenBuckanneer posted:I'm trying earnestly at layering and it's coming out OK, but the effect isn't coming out well on camera either in my light box or my boom lights. I'll try later with my dslr but it's kind of disappointing because the layering looks good but then looks worse on camera If it looks good to the eye it looks good. Cameras just highlight all the flaws, especially at 2000 pixels tall.
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Apr 20, 2022 17:11
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 I ordered some elden Ring pot bros but they're all white! Would slapping some Zandri Dust or Karak Stone on give it that beige look from the game?
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Apr 20, 2022 17:22
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Ghislaine of YOSPOS posted:
Skeleton Horde contrast paint would be the quickest. Maybe slightly thin it
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Apr 20, 2022 17:38
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GreenBuckanneer posted:
I recently watched a video from Richard Gray where he said that he photos his Golden Demon entries after a session to pick up any mistakes. If Richard Hecking Gray finds mistakes in photos, I'm pretty sure everyone else will as well. One thing that you could try to focus on is going darker with your shadows. Currently, you've got a great midtone and good highlights, but there's very little definition due to the lack of contrast. High contrast will look better in person, and will also appear much better on camera.
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Apr 20, 2022 17:39
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Ghislaine of YOSPOS posted:
He doesn't seem to mention specific colors (And I haven't played the came so I don't know if the general colors are right), but you could try North of the Border's method for painting them. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfxSRfGsDEg&t=623s
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Apr 20, 2022 17:57
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