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meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

cursedshitbox posted:

load up a blunderbuss of front end parts and aim it squarely at the front end.

Throw money at shocks/springs/arms/joints/rod ends/knuckles. Mostly in that order.

And if you don't hit them all at once and just do some... they'll fail in reverse order (except the knuckles).

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 23:10 on Mar 13, 2022

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therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

cursedshitbox posted:

load up a blunderbuss of front end parts and aim it squarely at the front end.

Throw money at shocks/springs/arms/joints/rod ends/knuckles. Mostly in that order.

So what you are is saying is that unless I have a large parts budget and time on my hands, then no.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


You can get almost all of it from Rockauto and it won’t be a huge amount. Just a large heavy truck that is 20 years old will likely need all the suspension by now.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
Ok, I'm probably going to start getting pieces if I see a good deal.

Unrelated, everytime I start the engine the brake pedal gives my foot a bump. Is that some kind of brake assist engaging, or something else?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

therunningman posted:

Ok, I'm probably going to start getting pieces if I see a good deal.

Unrelated, everytime I start the engine the brake pedal gives my foot a bump. Is that some kind of brake assist engaging, or something else?

Is it really kicking back or does it just feel like that because you have vacuum assist and it suddenly is easier to depress/goes down with the same force?

Your brain does weird interpretations of what pedals feel like when poo poo goes wrong. I know that I feel like the throttle is mushy when I have a msifire in things it's clearly not at all because it physically can't be but my brain is telling me it is because it's not doing what I expect it to do.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
Yeah it's weird. I get in the truck, press the brake pedal, then turn the ignition. It turns over and right as it starts there's a short, fast kick/jolt/thump in the brake pedal. It barely moves the pedal and it happens everytime.

I had assumed it was some kind of assist kicking in but I thought I'd throw it out there for a second opinion.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Yeah that's just vacuum assist doing its thing.


BigPaddy posted:

You can get almost all of it from Rockauto and it won’t be a huge amount. Just a large heavy truck that is 20 years old will likely need all the suspension by now.

bit of this. bit of some offroading parts will do ya. going fast in the dirt is never cheap.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

cursedshitbox posted:

Yeah that's just vacuum assist doing its thing.

bit of this. bit of some offroading parts will do ya. going fast in the dirt is never cheap.

I'm going to start with the shocks I think. I believe the truck has been levelled in the front, can I go with stock height shocks and is the "Heavy Duty" section of Rockauto the best place to look?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

therunningman posted:

Yeah it's weird. I get in the truck, press the brake pedal, then turn the ignition. It turns over and right as it starts there's a short, fast kick/jolt/thump in the brake pedal. It barely moves the pedal and it happens everytime.

I had assumed it was some kind of assist kicking in but I thought I'd throw it out there for a second opinion.

It's the hydroboost. Totally normal.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

therunningman posted:

Yeah it's weird. I get in the truck, press the brake pedal, then turn the ignition. It turns over and right as it starts there's a short, fast kick/jolt/thump in the brake pedal. It barely moves the pedal and it happens everytime.

I had assumed it was some kind of assist kicking in but I thought I'd throw it out there for a second opinion.

Do you have to hold the brake to start it or not? And if not, why do you do it?

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

StormDrain posted:

Do you have to hold the brake to start it or not? And if not, why do you do it?

I don't have to, it's a force of habit from when I was first taught to drive.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





It's not exactly a bad habit to be in.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.


Loving the GMT800 life! Fortunately I also drive a Civic.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

On this topic, what's a good modern code reader? All I have is generic old ones and I know there are a lot of the market now that can get into all the specific stepper actuations and stuff that formerly required a tec2. GMT800 necessary, multi-manufacturer would be great.

meatpimp fucked around with this message at 13:35 on Mar 27, 2022

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
Off to a good start. I spent an entire day changing the wheel hubs. I only put the splash guard on the wrong way twice on the same wheel.

Using a 1/2" nuts and bolts as ersatz pullers worked great.

From now on I will maintain both 6 and 12 point sockets in my box. I rounded off one of the caliper bolts but managed to crack it with a six point socket.

Overall great experience.

Turbo Fondant
Oct 25, 2010

meatpimp posted:

On this topic, what's a good modern code reader? All I have is generic old ones and I know there are a lot of the market now that can get into all the specific stepper actuations and stuff that formerly required a tec2. GMT800 necessary, multi-manufacturer would be great.

I've got an Autel AL629 that's alright, able to pull/clear codes off ABS and other modules on pmuch anything which is nice. For full Tech2/GDS style access I've got a VXDIAG VCX Nano is much better for not much more money but you need a laptop and the driver is kind of a PITA (always needs to login/phone home for firmware updates so if you forget your password you're locked out of the tool until you email VXDIAG).

I've more or less replaced both of those on my GM stuff with an MPVI2 which owns but lol if you're not tuning stuff it's absolutely not worth the $500 or whatever.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

meatpimp posted:

On this topic, what's a good modern code reader? All I have is generic old ones and I know there are a lot of the market now that can get into all the specific stepper actuations and stuff that formerly required a tec2. GMT800 necessary, multi-manufacturer would be great.

I like the OBDLink MX+ OBD2.

I don't know if it gets into everything you're looking for, but it gets into the body control module, airbag, and all the other GM specific codes but it might not do all of the troubleshooting that you're looking for

It requires a app though which might not work for your use case.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



My brake light just came on yesterday when I was moving my '92 K1500 from the garage I was working on it at to my home, and now that I sit and troubleshoot in the daylight I'm getting a whooshing/hissing noise when I operate the brake pedal and the brake pedal is slow to return. The pedal also feels light but I have not driven this enough to have a solid point of reference. That sounds like a vacuum problem to me, how do I track down the leak? I've never had this happen before and while I will throw the parts cannon at it if that's the best course of action I'd rather just replace the faulty part.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





The brake light and the vacuum booster are almost certainly unrelated. Brake boosters and whooshing noises can be normal but there's nothing a brake booster can do to fail in a way that's going to trigger the brake warning light.

Slow return and brake light sounds like a hydraulic issue.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


Not sure if this design continued to 92 but there is a brake distribution block with the brake light switch integrated with it on the core support on my 80 C10. If that is leaking or otherwise dead it would impact brake feel as well as the brake light switch.

22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



IOwnCalculus posted:

The brake light and the vacuum booster are almost certainly unrelated. Brake boosters and whooshing noises can be normal but there's nothing a brake booster can do to fail in a way that's going to trigger the brake warning light.

Slow return and brake light sounds like a hydraulic issue.

Okay, my first thought was that I had failed to bleed the brakes well when replacing the brakes (I should have mentioned I just did that), especially since I had to replace a wheel cylinder that I found was ripped. But everything I found about the noise said brake booster. I'll bleed them first but I might pick up speed bleeders, I don't live with anyone who I can snag to stomp the brakes for me so I'm never sure how good my bleeding is. Kind of don't want to spend $18 a piece for them on this $750 truck though, it would be nice to find something I can use on all my cars since I'm trying to get in the habit of changing the fluid every year or two.

BigPaddy
Jun 30, 2008

That night we performed the rite and opened the gate.
Halfway through, I went to fix us both a coke float.
By the time I got back, he'd gone insane.
Plus, he'd left the gate open and there was evil everywhere.


If you don't have an air compressor you can get a hand vacuum pump that you can use to bleed the brakes by yourself.

Lowclock
Oct 26, 2005
Those DIY garden sprayer pressure brake bleeder setups are cheap as hell and work awesome. Just need a new master cylinder cap that'll fit each one, which usually have to be modified to block any pressure relief passage. Vacuum bleeders are a little neater and easier, but don't seem to work as well, even if you can manage to get the loosened bleeder to not leak air into the tube downstream.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Okay, my first thought was that I had failed to bleed the brakes well when replacing the brakes (I should have mentioned I just did that)

Yeah, you should have. You have a bad master cylinder and probably a bad booster because, I'm going to guess, you bled them using the pedal and put it to or near the floor, shoving the rusty part of the piston through the seals.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
So I replace the resistor pack because only high-speed fan was working for climate control about 6 months ago. Now, high speed and almost high speed (4 and 5) stopped working where is one through three work perfectly.

Did my resistor pack go bad again or is something else busted?

Did I perhaps get a bad resistor pack when I replaced it last time? Or is my fan going out?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Most likely you bought an aftermarket resistor pack and it's junk already.

I would try re-seating the connector first. If that doesn't work it's time to check the connector pins for voltage at various fan speeds to make sure it's not the switch.......but it's probably not. So many replacement parts are absolute crap.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Sometimes the wiring harnesses fail, too.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

sharkytm posted:

Sometimes the wiring harnesses fail, too.

Truth. My Escalade has has an electrical smell coming from deep-winter warmups for 2 years. I fully expect to find a spicy wiring harness when I finally pull the HVAC head.

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy
After five years of rattling around in this old box I finally smashed 'gmt800 steering clunk' into a search engine and discovered it's a thing.

taps sign


I ordered a new 'revised' bearing and intermediate steering shaft (Dorman 905-512 and 425-176 respectively) and it turned out to be a pleasant Saturday afternoon wrench. Old parts came out easy, new parts went in easy.

Every youtuber I watched do the job griped about reinstalling the bearing but I found a conveniently sized piece of PVC plumbing and used that to help press it in by hand. I guess I also made sure it was seated on the upper steering shaft as far as possible before I tried inserting the bearing into the tube.
Hardest part of the job was getting the new steering shaft through the firewall boot.
This thing.

I had to grease it up real good and have my wife wiggle it while I pushed the shaft through the firewall.


I was a little surprised when I pulled the old parts because they didn't feel that loose. The bearing spun smoothly and there was a little play in the steering shaft but it wasn't nearly as sloppy as I was expecting from the noise and mileage (262,222.)
That said it made a night and day difference. It completely got rid of the clunk and a related dash rattle. A++ easy 40 minute job.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
I never did the one in my truck, it rattled so badly from other poo poo that it really wasn't worth it. However, if it was only 40 minutes, I should have done it. Congrats! Does yours piston slap wicked bad when it's cold?

monsterzero
May 12, 2002
-=TOPGUN=-
Boys who love airplanes :respek: Boys who love boys
Lipstick Apathy
Oh buddy does it ever

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

monsterzero posted:


I had to grease it up real good and have my wife wiggle it while I pushed the shaft through the firewall.

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?
Supposedly changing the oil pressure switch in these is supposed to be easy but good God drat I scratched my loving hand up a treat and I'm not sure I got the oil sending unit screwed in all the way. Is there some magic way that I'm supposed to do this to make it easier?

What dumb poo poo did I miss?

I have the proper 1-1/16 deep well socket but it seemed nearly impossible to get a good angle on it with any wrench or set of extensions I had.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

nitrogen posted:

Supposedly changing the oil pressure switch in these is supposed to be easy but good God drat I scratched my loving hand up a treat and I'm not sure I got the oil sending unit screwed in all the way. Is there some magic way that I'm supposed to do this to make it easier?

What dumb poo poo did I miss?

I have the proper 1-1/16 deep well socket but it seemed nearly impossible to get a good angle on it with any wrench or set of extensions I had.

If you're meaning the oil pressure sensor, it's tough to reach (I needed a ladder), but it seemed reasonably easy to get to with a long extension and swivel, just needed to do some things by feel. I did, though, drop the old sender when I removed it, and never found it... I imagine it fell out somewhere, but :iiam:

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

meatpimp posted:

If you're meaning the oil pressure sensor, it's tough to reach (I needed a ladder), but it seemed reasonably easy to get to with a long extension and swivel, just needed to do some things by feel. I did, though, drop the old sender when I removed it, and never found it... I imagine it fell out somewhere, but :iiam:

Not only was it tough for me to reach, I could never get a proper angle on it with a ratchet and any of the extensions that I had. Either the extension was too short and I had to shove my hand way into that crevice or it was too long and it was blocking on the top of the engine bay.

I also had a hard time getting the socket onto the sending unit and getting it to stay there, it kept slipping away.

There's apparently a tool you can get, a friend of mine has one and I'm going to borrow it to see if it makes any difference.

And either I didn't screw the sending unit in all the way or it didn't fix the problem so I might have a bad oil pump which is going to really piss me off.

I'm going to throw an oil change at it just to see if that does any better but if the oil pump really is wasted, I might just sideline this truck and consider getting a crate engine for it

nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?

sharkytm posted:

Sometimes the wiring harnesses fail, too.

No matter how smart you think you are, broken poo poo can be smarter than you are.

So I replaced the resistor pack just because it was cheap. Same problem: fan speeds 1 through 4 worked great five didn't.

So I pulled the resistor pack out and got my voltmeter and found that one of the pinouts wasn't working, so I got a new switch, and the pinout started working again.

Plugged it all back in and position five stopped working.

Said gently caress it, got a new blower fan because maybe that's the issue. Tested it before plugging it all back in and it worked!

Hooked the blower fan back up and put it inside and installed it and position five stopped working.

The previous owner had replaced the resistor pack and hacked up the wiring so one of the wires is not making full contact so if you jiggle It position five works and stops working.

Turbo Fondant
Oct 25, 2010



I should probably do a thread for this phase of GMT shenanigans cause there is a LOT of poo poo going down but :effort:

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Turbo Fondant posted:

I should probably do a thread for this phase of GMT shenanigans cause there is a LOT of poo poo going down but :effort:

Yes, you should.

In other GMT800 news, I finally got to replacing the right rear caliper that was dead seized. I had squeezed it back with enough force that it didn't even try to engage for a while, which was nice, but eventually, it got stuck again with the pads dragging badly.

After a new caliper and brake fluid change, it's braking so much better... imagine that.

Mr-Spain
Aug 27, 2003

Bullshit... you can be mine.
Alright putting the steering shaft down for when I change out the PS pump. Still need to get the ABS module and whatnot but haven't had any crazy stops or anything, doesn't seem to be too huge a problem yet.

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22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Does anyone know where to find the gear ratios of the various transmissions and years? I've got a '92 with a 5 speed manual and no tachometer. I've never driven a V8 before so I don't know what different RPM sound like. I'm going to be towing soon so I expect I'll want to be in 4th for that but I want to calculate RPMs to make sure that I don't sit near redline. I swear for a generation that talks about "hur hur kids today can't drive stick" everyone that owns one of these chose the automatic.

E: I guess 4th is likely 1:1 at least so I can figure that one out. Would still be nice to know the others.

E2: Lol apparently I have been taking it easy on this engine, I shift around 2k. Probably ought to go a bit higher than that.

22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jul 22, 2022

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