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wibble
May 20, 2001
Meep meep

kimbo305 posted:

Is the ferrule on the exit side possibly crimped onto the cable housing?


Does that part move or come out of the top if you pull up on it?

Alloy frame, but seems to be the same setup:
https://www.bikeforums.net/20356229-post11.html
No mention of it being hard to pull the cable out, though they do confirm the boot functions as a cable housing stop.

pg 32:
https://www.gtbicycles.com/media/uploads/blog/files/G15_2015_Techbook.pdf

Not to worry, got it out with the help of some pliers and wiggling it a bit :newlol: just didnt want to break anything.
Think it was wedged in there from all the crap over winter. Next step is give a deep clean so I can see what I'm doing...

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tylertfb
Mar 3, 2004

Time.Space.Transmat.

Dog Case posted:

Allows you to change the wheel base and head tube angle. Forwards=shorter wheelbase, steeper angle, faster handling, back=longer wheelbase, slacker angle, more laid back handling

That’s a side effect, but not really the reason they’re there. They’re mostly there so you can remove the wheel (to fix a flat or whatever) and then put it back in straight without having to measure anything. They’re adjustable so that you can run different sizes of cassettes which might require you moving the wheel forward or backwards in the dropouts to get the right orientation with the rear derailleur.

Skarsnik
Oct 21, 2008

I...AM...RUUUDE!




Isn't it just a built in chain tug?

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Skarsnik posted:

Isn't it just a built in chain tug?

No, that would only be if it were a) fixed/ss and b) track ends not forward-facing dropouts.

Boywhiz88
Sep 11, 2005

floating 26" off da ground. BURR!
Sourcing parts question. So, in the last year I’ve stepped up my efforts to maintain my bike, at all, and on my own! So far it’s gone pretty well. Unfortunately unrelated to those errors, i biffed it on my bike and need new brake handles on both sides.

My preferred local shop had only one of the two brake levers that I need. It’s nothing too fancy, Shimano Deore BL-T610s. All the bike shops in my area have terrible websites, varying hours, etc.

I’d love to give them my support vs online but I’m wondering if I shouldn’t just go through a dedicated bike parts website. This is my first time venturing into TGO and this thread, so i was wondering if there’s a consensus on this sort of thing. Local vs online, and if people have a preferred website. Im in the Twin Cities, if someone would have more local insight.

Thank you!

Edit! Just remembered a shop in MPLS, The Hub Co-Op, that has a good rep, and the parts I want are available for in-store pick-up, etc. so I’ll go that route. But my question still stands for recommendations as necessary!

Boywhiz88 fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Apr 17, 2022

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Boywhiz88 posted:

Sourcing parts question. So, in the last year I’ve stepped up my efforts to maintain my bike, at all, and on my own! So far it’s gone pretty well. Unfortunately unrelated to those errors, i biffed it on my bike and need new brake handles on both sides.

My preferred local shop had only one of the two brake levers that I need. It’s nothing too fancy, Shimano Deore BL-T610s. All the bike shops in my area have terrible websites, varying hours, etc.

I’d love to give them my support vs online but I’m wondering if I shouldn’t just go through a dedicated bike parts website. This is my first time venturing into TGO and this thread, so i was wondering if there’s a consensus on this sort of thing. Local vs online, and if people have a preferred website. Im in the Twin Cities, if someone would have more local insight.

Thank you!

Edit! Just remembered a shop in MPLS, The Hub Co-Op, that has a good rep, and the parts I want are available for in-store pick-up, etc. so I’ll go that route. But my question still stands for recommendations as necessary!

Fyi you can use other levers too. That's where having a good lbs comes in handy, they'll know what works for your particular bike.

The T610 is certainly a nice lever, but there's a lot of other v-brake levers that are probably easier to find if you're not married to a specific SKU.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME
IMO in person versus buying online kind of comes down to availability and your budget.

Buying online from a big retailer like competitive cyclist can be cheaper and they might have stuff in stock that local shops don't, but if all else is equal then it's nice to buy local IMO

Just don't go into a shop and ask if they can price match an online retailer

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb

Levitate posted:

IMO in person versus buying online kind of comes down to availability and your budget.

Buying online from a big retailer like competitive cyclist can be cheaper and they might have stuff in stock that local shops don't, but if all else is equal then it's nice to buy local IMO

Just don't go into a shop and ask if they can price match an online retailer

Yeah, 3 dollars a foot for cable housing is worth in for the in-person touch.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Levitate posted:

Just don't go into a shop and ask if they can price match an online retailer

For small items I agree but for big purchases I don't think you need to donate money to these business owners and it's more than okay to mention that xyz bike is available online for [20% less] and would they consider price matching that to earn your business.

I'm sure I'm not the only one here who has worked in a bike shop so I don't want to sound preachy but very commonly the people who own the shop are people who were into bikes 20 years ago and now have pretty much only a fondness for it and care a lot more about (your) money.

Levitate
Sep 30, 2005

randy newman voice

YOU'VE GOT A LAFRENIÈRE IN ME

VelociBacon posted:

For small items I agree but for big purchases I don't think you need to donate money to these business owners and it's more than okay to mention that xyz bike is available online for [20% less] and would they consider price matching that to earn your business.

I'm sure I'm not the only one here who has worked in a bike shop so I don't want to sound preachy but very commonly the people who own the shop are people who were into bikes 20 years ago and now have pretty much only a fondness for it and care a lot more about (your) money.

I’ve talked to and been friends with a lot of bike shop employees that didn’t like it when people tried to get them to price match :shrug:

Though I’m not sure it’s ever been on a full bike

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Dumb question: is there a way to keep my saddle from sliding backwards? I've got a Brooks C-17 saddle, and it keeps working its way into its most rearward position, which means my pants rub against the saddle clamp bolt. Should I just tighten it more?

Edit: looking at it more closely, am I missing part of the clamp?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Safety Dance posted:

Dumb question: is there a way to keep my saddle from sliding backwards? I've got a Brooks C-17 saddle, and it keeps working its way into its most rearward position, which means my pants rub against the saddle clamp bolt. Should I just tighten it more?

Edit: looking at it more closely, am I missing part of the clamp?


Get a nicer seatpost

E: not a joke, that type of seat clamp was always awful and yours is deformed and hosed up. A cheap seatpost will be 24$ and a nice-ish one like 60.

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires

Levitate posted:

I’ve talked to and been friends with a lot of bike shop employees that didn’t like it when people tried to get them to price match :shrug:

Though I’m not sure it’s ever been on a full bike

Nobody likes to price match online because people are always coming in with a page printed out from ccnumber please.notascam.ng/impossiblycheapthing.htm

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime

SimonSays posted:

Get a nicer seatpost

E: not a joke, that type of seat clamp was always awful and yours is deformed and hosed up. A cheap seatpost will be 24$ and a nice-ish one like 60.

^ this. A modern kalloy post is under 20 bux and perfectly serviceable.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

SimonSays posted:

Get a nicer seatpost

E: not a joke, that type of seat clamp was always awful and yours is deformed and hosed up. A cheap seatpost will be 24$ and a nice-ish one like 60.

Fiiiiineeeee. If I'm spending money on it, I might as well spend some more and put a suspension seatpost in there. It's my commuter after all.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

Dog Case posted:

Nobody likes to price match online because people are always coming in with a page printed out from ccnumber please.notascam.ng/impossiblycheapthing.htm

Also because part of why you go to an LBS is because they (if they don't suck) do some of the leg work for you making sure your stuff is compatible, suggest alternatives to better accomplish what you're doing etc. Also most of the places with cheap parts get them by breaking dealer agreements etc. We aren't going to sell you a part that's below our cost because some place in the EU getting parts at bike builder cost is willing to ship across the pond.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Safety Dance posted:

Fiiiiineeeee. If I'm spending money on it, I might as well spend some more and put a suspension seatpost in there. It's my commuter after all.

There's good and bad suspension seat posts. The ones that move linearly with the post are usually cheap and don't work well.

HarmB
Jun 19, 2006



Safety Dance posted:

Fiiiiineeeee. If I'm spending money on it, I might as well spend some more and put a suspension seatpost in there. It's my commuter after all.


kimbo305 posted:

There's good and bad suspension seat posts. The ones that move linearly with the post are usually cheap and don't work well.

This, so much this. I don't think suspension seatposts are all that useful, but if you're going to get one, get one with a parallelogram style of movement, like the Cane Creek Thudbuster.

At my co-op, people buy the cheap stick ones and end up hating them and try to swap them for a cheaper solid post.

If you're not stoker on a tandem (i.e. you can actually see the road ahead), then I think unweighting the saddle is way more useful than a suspension seatpost.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

EvilJoven posted:

Also because part of why you go to an LBS is because they (if they don't suck) do some of the leg work for you making sure your stuff is compatible, suggest alternatives to better accomplish what you're doing etc. Also most of the places with cheap parts get them by breaking dealer agreements etc. We aren't going to sell you a part that's below our cost because some place in the EU getting parts at bike builder cost is willing to ship across the pond.
I mean sure but in normal circumstances you can usually negotiate when you're buying a 5+ grand MTB. I didn't pay anywhere near retail for my last MTB, tho it wasn't as cheap as online. On the other hand they put it all together for me, installed my toolkit, set it up tubeless etc. That poo poo's a pain and labor would have been a bunch.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

HarmB posted:

If you're not stoker on a tandem (i.e. you can actually see the road ahead), then I think unweighting the saddle is way more useful than a suspension seatpost.

Even better, OP is riding a C17, it's already a well-suspended saddle. A suspension post is pointless unless you want to accordion your lower spine every time you hit a bump.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Pretty sure it’s also on an ebike with big tires so just get a nice regular post and call it a day

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
No, let all the springs work together.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Don't get a new seatpost get a new frame

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Safety Dance posted:

Dumb question: is there a way to keep my saddle from sliding backwards? I've got a Brooks C-17 saddle, and it keeps working its way into its most rearward position, which means my pants rub against the saddle clamp bolt. Should I just tighten it more?

Edit: looking at it more closely, am I missing part of the clamp?

I can't tell what's going on there but it doesn't look like the pieces are in this order.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

CopperHound posted:

I can't tell what's going on there but it doesn't look like the pieces are in this order.


Yeah I don't know how I lost some parts the last time I had it apart, but I think that's what happened.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Safety Dance posted:

Yeah I don't know how I lost some parts the last time I had it apart, but I think that's what happened.

They might exist, but I can't think of any bicycle parts where stamped steel is the appropriate choice of material.

Though Schwinn and Raleigh certainly tried.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

SimonSays posted:

They might exist, but I can't think of any bicycle parts where stamped steel is the appropriate choice of material.
In this case it is fine (as long as the right saddle angle for you lines up with the notches). I really only have a huge problem with stamped steel brake parts. Other places aren't a terrible value tradeoff.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

SimonSays posted:

They might exist, but I can't think of any bicycle parts where stamped steel is the appropriate choice of material.

Though Schwinn and Raleigh certainly tried.

Some individual derailleur component parts are stamped afaict. Terrible material for a loving seat clamp, those things drive me crazy.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Slavvy posted:

Some individual derailleur component parts are stamped afaict. Terrible material for a loving seat clamp, those things drive me crazy.

Ah, thanks, I knew I was missing something. Stamped FDs are delightful.

I've seen stamped and welded stems, they scare me.

mAlfunkti0n
May 19, 2004
Fallen Rib
Posting two years later to say I finally got my 2004 Specialized Roubaix back on the road.

  • Shimano R5700 105 controls
  • Shimano R7000 crank and Ultegra BB (ultegra b/c amazon had nothing else that could get here faster)
  • Mindset headset removed (with prejudice)
  • Two Cane Creek bearings for the headset
  • RD-5700 / FD-5700 derailleurs

Most of these parts came from my wife's donor bike that I stupidly bought without actually checking sizing (bikes direct, you live you learn).

I forgot how much I loved road riding as well as MTB.

mAlfunkti0n fucked around with this message at 14:45 on Apr 25, 2022

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

mAlfunkti0n posted:

[*] Mindset headset removed (with prejudice)

lmao I had to look this one up and apparently it is a race pressed into an integrated headset head tube so that they can used caged balls instead of a cartridge bearing. :psyduck: I can't imagine they saved more than a couple pennies per bike at any scale so I guess it exists just to increase the total amount of misery in the universe

mAlfunkti0n
May 19, 2004
Fallen Rib

Clark Nova posted:

lmao I had to look this one up and apparently it is a race pressed into an integrated headset head tube so that they can used caged balls instead of a cartridge bearing. :psyduck: I can't imagine they saved more than a couple pennies per bike at any scale so I guess it exists just to increase the total amount of misery in the universe

All I can guess is Speialized hated whoever bought these bikes and wanted them to have steering issues down the road. Thankfully the ole whack it with a flat head screwdriver and mallet trick knocked the races out easily enough. I had horrible steering issues that I thought were caused by binding cables. Nope. Just a terrible headset design.

Pooper Hero
Sep 11, 2001
The costumed crapper
I'm wanting to upgrade my bike to use intergrated bars like Bontrager Aeolus, are they all $600? I already have the fork and headset for them, and I'm hoping to find something nice in the $200-$400 range. Or am I just old and that is the price for carbon bars these days? I looked at some older intergrated bars, but I'd prefer ones that route my brake hose to the headset.

Pooper Hero fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Apr 27, 2022

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Pooper Hero posted:

I'm wanting to upgrade my bike to use intergrated bars like Bontrager Aeolus, are they all $600? I already have the fork and headset for them, and I'm hoping to find something nice in the $200-$400 range. Or am I just old and that is the price for carbon bars these days?

Nah go ahead and use cheap carbon on the part where if it breaks you die, I'm sure all the most reputable companies want to cut costs there specifically.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Pooper Hero posted:

I'm wanting to upgrade my bike to use intergrated bars like Bontrager Aeolus, are they all $600? I already have the fork and headset for them, and I'm hoping to find something nice in the $200-$400 range. Or am I just old and that is the price for carbon bars these days? I looked at some older intergrated bars, but I'd prefer ones that route my brake hose to the headset.

I think Canyon recalled all the cheap ones after every single customer died.

Pooper Hero
Sep 11, 2001
The costumed crapper

SimonSays posted:

Nah go ahead and use cheap carbon on the part where if it breaks you die, I'm sure all the most reputable companies want to cut costs there specifically.

Yeah I definitely wanna avoid ebay China carbon. But I'm not sure why the trek is almost twice the price of the Ritchey intergrated bars? I guess what I'm asking for is the ritchey bars with a channel like the trek ones or even internally routed like the Deda alanera but not for dentists.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Pooper Hero posted:

I'm wanting to upgrade my bike to use intergrated bars like Bontrager Aeolus, are they all $600? I already have the fork and headset for them, and I'm hoping to find something nice in the $200-$400 range. Or am I just old and that is the price for carbon bars these days? I looked at some older intergrated bars, but I'd prefer ones that route my brake hose to the headset.

To be clear, are you looking for a "barstem" or just a combination of bars and stem that will let you route the hoses full internal?

Pooper Hero
Sep 11, 2001
The costumed crapper

bicievino posted:

To be clear, are you looking for a "barstem" or just a combination of bars and stem that will let you route the hoses full internal?

A "barstem" that let's me run the hoses internally to my internal routing headset.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Trying to get rid of the chain guide/retainer on my 1x10 bike. Is it enough to run a narrow-wide chainring or do I need narrow-wide jockey wheels as well? I'm planning to run a current generation zee 10-speed rear mech with a raceface narrow wide chainring. My force 1x11 rear mech on another bike has the narrow-wide jockey wheels which is what got me thinking about it.

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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Start with just the n-w ring and see if that takes care of it.

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