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Advent Horizon posted:
They did the same thing with the transfer cases on the 100’s- the manual transfers have a synchro assembly between low and high range so you can move off with a big load in low range so you don’t trash your clutch, then once your moving shift up into high by just popping the clutch. The auto transfers don’t have that part because you need to have the auto in neutral to shift the transfer so it’s unloaded. I didn’t know this before I got my hands on an auto transfer to overhaul until I tried to shift on the fly and horrible gear noises erupted from under the floor. It’s like $2.50 worth of parts to add the synchro, but I have to drop and split the transfer to put it in…
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Apr 17, 2022 13:38
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Not a lot of visible stuff the last few days, mostly working on that thousand little things to get this swap completed. I had to make a new, longer, ground wire for the transfer case. I hope I didn’t undersize it   I actually made several replacement ground wires and even added one directly to the alternator. I’m a firm believer in having more/larger grounds than necessary. I’m really happy with how the ejection switch turned out:  It ties into an unused accessory plug under the dash so it’s completely removable and doesn’t have any vampire taps. The lights even work properly. I just need to add a relay so it can actually control a circuit, but the power/control wire for that is all ready to go.
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Apr 20, 2022 07:20
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It’s looking a lot more complete now! Just need to vacuum tomorrow and the carpet can go back in. After that the interior is just waiting on seats. Is there any reason I shouldn’t run a couple wires inside the driver’s side frame rail? I need to bring power to the diesel heater and the exhaust runs on both sides of the frame. I can easily fish a run through the frame itself (in fact, I already have), but if there’s a reason not to I can probably reroute.
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Apr 21, 2022 07:15
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Run wiring now. I have installed mini marine fuse boxes in the back of several trucks with a hefty power run to the main fuse box and a bunch of signal wires as well. Well worth it if you plan on doing any extra lighting or accessories.
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Apr 21, 2022 12:59
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Only concern is if they would wind up sitting in water. Otherwise should be good protection for them and no different than being run under the body.
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Apr 21, 2022 14:32
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sharkytm posted:Run wiring now. I have installed mini marine fuse boxes in the back of several trucks with a hefty power run to the main fuse box and a bunch of signal wires as well. Well worth it if you plan on doing any extra lighting or accessories. Wiring is a lot of the non-visible progress. Everything else has been under the hood or within the cabin - I’ve opened a lot of wire looms in the body harness to get the reverse camera and seat heater wiring in place. We probably won’t have time to finish the seat heater circuits before we leave but the wiring is ready…I think. It occurred to me in the shower that I need to double-check that the switches don’t need to be tied into the lighting circuit. With the ejection seat switch, a USB port for the stereo, and seat heaters, I am rapidly working to accomplish the dream of no blank switches 
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Apr 21, 2022 14:37
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Advent Horizon posted:Today I made a bracket for the driver’s inner fender to attach my dual battery isolator and eventually some relays: Better: paint some veins on the dick-shaped bracket Best: use a bead roller to put some ribs for her pleasure on the dick-shaped bracket, then paint some veins on it. Gotta keep that dick-shaped bracket stiff.
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Apr 21, 2022 15:51
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PBCrunch posted:keep that dick-shaped bracket stiff. They make o-rings for that.
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Apr 21, 2022 20:20
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Advent Horizon posted:It occurred to me in the shower that I need to double-check that the switches don’t need to be tied into the lighting circuit. Follow-up: the seat heater switches do tie in to the dash lighting circuit. I spent quite a while figuring out how to mesh the switch harness (6 wires) with the heater harness (4 wires). I was stumped until I realized that the heaters use a relay not for on/off but to switch between series and parallel for high/low. Shortly after I spent all that time on the heater harnesses I remembered that the automatic transmission shifter had a light under the PRNDL23 and the wires already go to the center console There’s just one problem - the wiring doesn’t match Toyota’s diagrams:  One green wire should be solid green, one should be green+white. I did get that figured out and the rest of the shifter harness unpinned so now I guess we’ll have seat heaters for the trip instead of some time in the future. I just want to say that I hate shopping at NAPA and they are usually my last resort. Even when they miraculously have what I need they’ll talk down at me - I wouldn’t be asking for a 4 pin relay if I didn’t already know what a 5 pin was and the difference. I’m also pretty sure year/make/model is not going to find generic relays.
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Apr 23, 2022 08:59
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Yesterday I focused on the steering. First I got the old sloppy steering box off: Note that the new box is not identical. I got a brand new steering gearbox for an FZJ80 Land Cruiser; it has the same bolt pattern & splines but is more powerful. I grew up watching Home Improvement and that may have had an effect on me… Got the pitman off and baked it at 250*F to warm it up for installation. My wife was displeased that I commandeered the oven while she was in the kitchen.  I hadn’t really considered (and I don’t know why) that a more powerful gearbox would have to be bigger. It fits under the fender but juuuust barely.  Unfortunately the heat shield did not fit. Yet another ‘bolt-on upgrade!’ that isn’t.  I don’t know what kind of fancy steel that heat shield is made out of but I went through five dremel cutting wheels to get it trimmed. No pictures, but I hooked the high pressure line back up, installed the radiator, and routed the return line through the ex-transmission cooler. I also added a Magnefine power steering filter. After the radiator and shroud went back on (did I mention that I cut the shroud in half and welded fitment tabs on so I can replace belts easier?) I got back in to the battery wiring. I routed a 2-gauge positive wire under the radiator and over to the driver’s side, where I installed a new stainless battery tray, my penis bracket, and a battery isolator:  The overflow bottle was also relocated off the radiator support; I will get some longer hose and properly route it. Tomorrow I need to mount some relays on my bracket for the seat heaters and the second battery will basically be done.
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Apr 25, 2022 07:03
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I just got off the phone with the barge company. To guarantee I’ll be able to pick it up in Seattle on 5/20 I would need to drop it at the barge dock here on Monday morning (5/2). There’s no way I’ll get it done and broken in by then. There’s another sailing on 5/9 that is scheduled to arrive in Seattle on 5/19. That is weather dependent and they have been having delays “but it’s getting better”. If I can’t pick it up by COB on Friday 5/20 then the next time they’re open is Monday the 23rd. I’m supposed to be in Yellowstone on the 23rd.
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Apr 26, 2022 20:12
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Can you break it in in Washington instead? I know it's not as convenient if things go wrong but it looks like it'll fit your schedule better, despite being more of a mad rush up front.
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Apr 26, 2022 20:25
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I’m not sure I’ll even have it driving by this Monday. I need to pick it up 5/20 and hit the Interstate. I am REALLY not confident in using a 3,000 mile road trip to break it in. If nothing else I want to get the fluids changed before any poo poo I got into it has a chance to circulate. Or to find out that my oil pan gasket isn’t installed correctly and it pukes everything on the interstate. Etc, etc, etc for a million different things that are keeping me awake at night.
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Apr 26, 2022 20:44
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Okay, I’m taking the next two days off. I need to work Friday as my co-worker is taking a couple weeks and we need to have time to go over everything while she’s gone, then she’ll only be back a couple days before I leave. If I can get it driving by Saturday night I think I can drive enough miles Sunday to make this work.
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Apr 26, 2022 23:52
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Connected the battery tonight and found 4 problems: 1. My Eject switch had the constant power and switched power reversed. The only difference was that the ‘on’ light was constantly active. This has been fixed. 2. The new seat belt warning LED is installed backward (reversed polarity). I’ll fix that the next time I pull the dash, which will be tomorrow because… 3. The dash cam isn’t working. I hard wired it so something’s up. I tied it in with the stereo, which works, so I need to verify that the power controller works. 4. The reverse lights don’t work. This is a HUGE problem - the reverse circuit is the only switch on the new transmission. gently caress I hope it doesn’t take a lot of troubleshooting but I’ve already shorted the wires at the transmission plug and gotten nothing. I need to verify +12v at the transmission before I start tracing the harness; it’s possible something lost connection while I was running the camera circuit (I tucked it into the same loom). I have my doubts about that, though, since all the other rear lights work.
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Apr 27, 2022 07:29
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Advent Horizon posted:Connected the battery tonight and found 4 problems: The dashcam power controller might have a low voltage cutoff, if the battery voltage getting to it is too low, it might not kick on.
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Apr 27, 2022 13:08
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Battery was at 12.32V per my multimeter. I pulled the dash apart today, tested everything, and put it back. Works fine now, I think I must have done a bad crimp under the dash late at night. I figured out what’s wrong with the reverse light circuit; now I have to take the transmission hump back out to fix it. I bought an adapter harness to adapt the manual and he didn’t label anything - a couple of the plugs were compatible with more than one other plug and I wired up the harness backwards AND to the wrong circuit. Fun times.
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Apr 28, 2022 01:08
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I didn’t plug in the adapter harness wrong, the harness was wrong. That makes me very unhappy because the entire point of buying it was to avoid having to cut into the stock harness. I eventually stared at the wiring diagrams and writing out, in word form, what did what until my brain had a moment of clarity. The reverse light wiring came through two different body harness plugs but the adapter only connected to one of them. The other wire in the adapter was trying to illuminate a non-existent neutral indicator. I did some test jumpering and figured out what needed to go where. I was hoping to just swap the pins between plugs but noooo  Instead I had to cut and splice:  For reference, that’s looking straight up and the starter is to the right. It’s a fun spot to use a heat gun on the butt connectors. Got it all taped up and voilà!  It APPEARS that the electrical is done for now. I have several other wiring repair projects that are not urgent and I’ll get to another time. After all that got fixed I put the exhaust back together. The rear down pipe had to be replaced, both cats reinstalled, and a hangar welded up for the outside catalytic converter. It all went pretty smoothly, actually, and I’m starting to have hope that we’ll be driving this weekend. After cleanup tonight I decided to get the diesel heater ready to toss in the back for shipment. I’m going to have to use my other FJ62 for duct fabrication and check the pieces as luggage but the heater itself should be just about ready to go with the ‘cruiser.  Again, there are projects that will have to be done later (fuel filter and better fuel lines) but this will do for now. My drill did not like using a 3” hole saw on that steel step, though:  Tomorrow a friend is taking a long lunch and we’re going to attempt a world record axle rebuild and differential swap. The front seats are both done being reupholstered (and the frames repainted) so tomorrow the full interior goes back in. After that it’s fluids and tune-up work.
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Apr 28, 2022 08:48
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Woop! Looking good. Hopefully the drill isn't permanently smoked.
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Apr 28, 2022 12:21
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You're making great progress, good luck!
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Apr 29, 2022 00:13
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I don't remember if I mentioned this, but you can adjust the angle of the display on that head unit if you need to (only upward tho). drat if I remember how at this point, but it IS adjustable. It'll snap back to flat when it's off, but when powered up it'll poke out a bit once it starts up. Also, might want to check out Direct Tools Outlet. They're primarily Ryobi, but sometimes have other brands. They have their retail storefront an hour from me, if you need anything from them (like a new drill....) - I can ship stuff to you via USPS (they only do the lower 48 and only fedex if you order online). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:32 on Apr 29, 2022 |
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Apr 29, 2022 05:27
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The drill still works great, actually. I suspect/hope it just smoked some lube in there. The FJ62 dash is pretty high up so I shouldn’t need to adjust it much in that direction. I am really happy with the stereo though, thanks! Today I again took off work but wasn’t nearly productive enough. I fought the driveshaft u-joints almost all day. Universal joints should come in packs of 5 so you have a replacement for the one that invariably gets hosed. Today I had one drop out the bushing/seal and it got dented - I checked the dealer and every parts store in town before buying the ONE that would fit. I am both really happy I even found that one and that I only effed up the one joint. I am unhappy that the destroyed joint was an expensive Matsuba while the replacement is generic Chinese. Finally, at 6pm, I had these all put together:  After the driveshafts I got to work on the front suspension. It looks like this will fight me a bit, but violence is a removal solution - right up until you knick a shock absorber cylinder with the cutoff wheel and don’t notice until half the shop is covered with oil. That put me further into a bad move before I noticed that the “3-inch extended” sway bar links are NOT three inches longer than stock:  That’s certainly better than stock, but I have a 3” lift and that won’t fix the angles enough! Speaking of the lift, I replaced all the zerks today. I want to know why ARB, an Australian manufacturer, made a lift for a Toyota, made in Japan, which uses 1/4” zerks.  I only had metric zerks handy so had to buy out the hardware store’s entire supply because there are TWELVE zerks. While I was at it I replaced as many other zerks as I could find on the whole vehicle for a total of 20.After all that disappointment we took the dog for a walk to get a break. Came home and decided to do a happy project:  Toasty buns! Yes, the USB port connects to the stereo.
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Apr 29, 2022 07:57
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Advent Horizon posted:Finally, at 6pm, I had these all put together: I admire your aesthetic. quote:
Very tidy USB install. Man, I need to install toasty buns in my Crown Vic. Even though it typically doesn't get ridiculously cold here in TX, our Outback has spoiled my lower back if nothing else.
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Apr 29, 2022 21:26
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Those are the coolest driveshafts I have ever seen.
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Apr 29, 2022 22:03
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I wanted to do that on the cage in our endurance car but they painted it while I was out of town. Great detail
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Apr 30, 2022 10:40
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I want that forbidden candy cane.
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Apr 30, 2022 12:31
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Suburban Dad posted:I want that forbidden candy cane. Paging cursedshitbox to the thread. CSB, your candy cane is needed
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Apr 30, 2022 14:55
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STR posted:Paging cursedshitbox to the thread. CSB, your candy cane is needed I don't have poo poo on this. Incredible.
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Apr 30, 2022 16:59
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IT LIVES. Need to drop at the barge dock at 8am 5/2. Test start at 8:05pm 5/1. No major hiccups so far. Plan is to drive as much as I can tonight. I’ll post more tomorrow but it has been touch and go the last 36 hours. I broke the speedometer cable and both front axle-side brake lines. Thankfully I had a spare speedometer cable (who has that? ME). I’m currently running on borrowed brake lines.
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May 2, 2022 06:42
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Okay, to catch up on the weekend, I’ll try to remember through the blur. Friday night I did a bunch of engine work and got it ready to start back up again. At this point we got really optimistic- there were only a few items left to do and it was mostly stuff we’d done before. Plan was to get up Saturday morning, knock that few items out, and get rolling Saturday night. It did not work out that way. Basically poo poo hit the fan twice Saturday. The first time I was buttoning up the underside and over tightened the speedometer cable - I snapped the end off it.  Of all the things to have a spare of, I’m really freaking thankful we saved the speedo cable off the parted-out FJ60 last year. Internet write-ups of the cable replacement all say ‘the floor grommet is impossible’. I don’t know how Erica did it, but she got this 2” grommet changed out:  You can see the cable in the top left, the grommet and cable are visible in the space between the dash support and heater. There’s enough room to get 2 fingers through there; from the underside it’s just above and to the side of the transmission. The upper dash also had to come apart again but she got the whole thing changed out in record time. I’m also happy to say that it is rock-solid on the gauge with no bouncing. I replaced the front shocks, sway bar links, steering stabilizer, and sway bar bushings. I haven’t had time to replace the leaf spring bushings; by process of elimination those are the suspension clunk. I put new zerks in them but my grease gun still couldn’t force anything through. With the new shocks and sway bar links it still handles a lot better than before, I’ll deal with those bushings later. At that point, now Saturday night, the only thing left was to tackle the front axle. I’ve rebuilt a Land Cruiser front axle before so figured that would go quickly - nope. Right off the bat both axle brake lines snapped. I do not have brake line tools. This was very nearly a ‘break down and start crying’ event. All was not lost, though - we have two of these things, right? No HOA means IDGAF what my neighbors think about my driveway contents. I went out in the dark and sprayed the front axle with a ton of Kroil and came back in the morning to very carefully borrow the brake lines:  They’re actually in really good shape. I didn’t really expect that to work but it did. That means I could get back to the front axle. Saturday night I finally got the 3rd out about 12:30am and my back spasmed as I wrestled it to the floor. I went to bed and figured I’d be better in the morning but the spasm came back. Getting the axle back together *sucked*. It took a good three hours to clean the gasket off. Neither of us could scrap around the housing studs for more than a couple minutes at a time before we hurt too much from the angles and overall soreness. Roloc discs should just be called ‘gasket polishers’ because that’s all they do for me. Once the diff was back in (which is easy to do with a transmission jack) I went to put the knuckles back on. I had disassembled the axle using the ‘camo method’ of pulling the steering arm which allows the whole knuckle, caliper and all, to come off as one chunk. If you can do it correctly it’s a super fast way to replace the axle shafts (and, by extension, the 3rd member). The passenger side went back together right away. The driver’s side did not. I called a friend in desperation and he came over to help out. If he hadn’t come I don’t think we would have made it - he put the driver’s side together because I was a ball of mush by that point. Even with both of us the knuckle would not go back on until it was completely disassembled down to the lower trunion bearing - at which time he gave it a test fit and it magically went straight on. Nothing changed in the actual assembly other than the weight of the knuckle being put on the knuckle ball. We got most of the fluids filled and he left me to my devices. I finally got it ready for a test-start at 8:05pm. It fired right up but the power steering made a bunch of noise as all the air in the system bled out; it has quieted down nicely. The radiator seems to hold pressure despite the dented filler neck. No major issues thus far. Went and changed into pants appropriate for fresh seat upholstery, scarfed some food, and hit the road about 9pm. Did a few laps around our street idling in gear to let everything get lubed and make sure there weren’t any bad noises. It seemed okay so I picked up Erica and we went for a 45 mile drive just so she could ride in it before the big trip. Dropped her off to get some sleep and I went back out to log some miles. All-in I did 165 miles last night. It handles great and the manual makes it feel much more powerful. So far I’m happy with the gearing - I got it going pretty fast and I ran out of guts in the dark before it topped out. It doesn’t seem to vibrate, the steering is much more responsive, the seats feel great, the suspension corners much better - right now I’m really happy with the work we did. I just need to avoid getting a speeding ticket because the same throttle inputs give it a lot more power than before. Got home at 1:30am, got three hours sleep, and came out this morning to pack as much as we could remember we’ll need. I also put a full change of transmission and transfer case fluids inside; we’ll get a quick-lube place to change those in Seattle before hitting the interstate. I went to check the fluids and found a gallon jug cap sitting on the head:  I guess that means that area is a lot cooler now that the air rail is gone. It used to be extremely hot in that space. Dropped it off at the barge dock this morning and it will be southbound in a container today.  Sorry for the long post but it’s been a long weekend. I called out of work today and I’m about to go take a long nap.
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May 2, 2022 19:10
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That sounds like a lot. Major congrats on finishing in time and getting it onto the barge. I'm excited about the big trip, and can't wait for pictures.
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May 3, 2022 12:06
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I’m feeling really good about getting on that earlier barge right now. Actual barge departure was scheduled for 9am 5/3, it didn’t leave until 11:45pm. If it went on the next barge any delays would be catastrophic to our trip plans because we’re supposed to pick it up on a Friday and they’re not open weekends. I still need to go clean up the shop and get the other FJ62 off jack stands. The friend who helped Sunday called about a plumbing issue yesterday and asked what I was up to. “Sitting on the couch right now and it’s GLORIOUS.” I’m obsessively following the barge tracking; I can say with some authority that certain tracking devices will not broadcast through a container. That tracking still shows in the Juneau yard, in the same spot the dashcam showed it being unloaded with other vehicles in the fall. Oh, and a note about the multitude of huge ground wires I added - it used to be that large electrical loads like the wipers would cause a momentary voltage drop. No more. It also seems, though I can’t objectively verify, that the gauge is reading a higher normal voltage than it used to. 2/0 welding cable isn’t cheap but it’s so nice to work with.
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May 5, 2022 04:04
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Now back to our regularly scheduled oil filter chat! I cut open the Mobil 1 filter that was on the FJ62. This was on it when I bought it. Oil analysis was good and the filter medium itself looks good.  This is a Purolator-manufactured filter, as evidenced by the string:  It looks to be a good filter overall. I do have a big concern with it, though - it was empty when I took it off. All the oil drained out. Here’s the ABV:  And on the base:  The rubber is pliable and a very similar shape to the Denso filters (which I know don’t drain out easily). The only thing I can think of is that some filters have the rubber seal against the holes in the base while others seal around a ring. This is a good example of both styles:  Left seals on a ring, right seals against the holes. I used this example to show that you really have to look at the exact filter size you’re buying because of the brand differences - I think the smaller Mobil 1 filter has a better ABV.
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May 8, 2022 03:56
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ROAD TRIP As you can see, we’re a long way from home - far closer to this old ‘Cruiser’s former stomping grounds. We flew to Seattle on Friday, picked the FJ62 up, got the break-in fluids changed at Torfab (class act at that shop!), picked up my SIL, and hit the road. We were packed to the gills with three American adults and gear - for the first couple nights we had to spend 45 minutes, morning and evening, moving everything around to get our bed set up. Everything went well until we crossed into Idaho. We were filling up with gas and ice at State Line when a huge hailstorm hit - I really thought we were going to lose the windshield just sitting there, let alone moving. We did manage to escape without damage but a ways down the interstate I noticed the cigarette lighter vibrating in the ashtray. It got worse when coasting. I pulled over at the next offramp and diagnosed the rear driveshaft as loose. Lesson learned - blue locktite is not enough for driveshafts. We stopped in Wallace for red locktite, got that fixed, and went up into the mountains. I was hoping to go over Cooper Pass to get into Montana, but alas the route was still blocked by snow. We went back to Wallace and got on I90 again, but not before stopping for a couple shots in Burke:  For those who don’t know, Burke is in a canyon so narrow that the Great Northern Railway ran through the lobby of the town hotel, which also spanned the creek. Wallace is notable as the town I90 was built over, not through, and was where Dante’s Peak was filmed. It is also the center of the universe. Back on the road again, we got off I90 at St Regis to take some country roads. This is where I got pulled over. The officer claimed he thought my plates were expired Montana plates. They are very clearly not, even from a distance. I wasn’t speeding - he pretty obviously pulled me over for funsies and I passed the ‘white people’ and ‘hello officer’ tests. Pulled into Bozeman Sunday afternoon, met up with family, and Monday we did a psychotic ‘pick up two rental motorhomes and do provisioning for 10 people’. Got to Mammoth Hot Springs Monday night and finally got to unload most of our stuff into the basement of my inlaws’ rental Class C. Yesterday, Tuesday, we went from Mammoth to Madison Campground. I stopped halfway for us to get lunch at a quiet spot and my dad popped the hood of his motorhome - it had been smelling like something was on fire. We couldn’t find anything but when I walked back to the FJ62 I noticed smoke coming from the driver’s rear brake. gently caress me. We fought that brake drum yesterday and the drum won. We tried everything with the tools we had but couldn’t get it off. There’s a procedure in the manual to loosen the adjuster but it didn’t work. It seemed to free up a bit with heat so I took it around a bit and came back to try again hot - still no luck. We had a campground registration & payment deadline to make and were 3/4 of the way already so I nursed it along to get checked in for 3 nights where I could spend some time dealing with it. This morning my uncle ran me over to West Yellowstone, outside the park, and we picked up a couple of the longest 8mm bolts the hardware store had.  That was enough to get the drum off. I had thought that the parking brake had stuck, since that’s a thing that happens, but nothing seemed stuck inside. Close inspection showed this huge groove in a brake shoe that I am certain was not there before:  Best guess is that we somehow got debris in the brake that was dragging on the shoe. When we tried to loosen the adjustor we read the diagram wrong and actually tightened it. It seems fine now, though my pedal is softer now that I loosened it back a lot. For some happier news, after a few stupid trials and tribulations I finally got the diesel heater working last night:  That thing is niiiiice. The ‘cruiser loses enough heat that the lowest hz setting for the pump didn’t cook us out, meaning we let it run all night and I got the best sleep all week. My FIL woke up before us this morning and took this picture for fun:  Tonight Erica and I are getting the hell away from family and staying at the Old Faithful Inn. This hotel has been on my bucket list since I was a kid.
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May 26, 2022 04:18
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Honestly a loose driveshaft and a drum brake issue are pretty good things to have as break-in issues rather than something more difficult and expensive to source. Funny your trip took you right through there, some of my favorite pictures of my POS are from the i90 westbound exit onto Mullan Gulch Rd in St Regis just before Henderson. I had just run out of gas... Yet again.
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May 26, 2022 04:41
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kastein posted:Honestly a loose driveshaft and a drum brake issue are pretty good things to have as break-in issues rather than something more difficult and expensive to source. The trip is only halfway over… Yesterday was the grand reopening of the Tower Fall-Canyon road in Yellowstone after two years of reconstruction. We got there just in time to only wait a couple minutes for the opening. Drove up and over to Cooke City, Montana, where this poor moose was very freaked out about being chased:  When it finally went for the trees it was postholing a bit. The snow is still pretty deep around there. Yesterday was also the temporary seasonal opening for the Beartooth Highway between Wyoming and Montana; it was open from 8am-5pm before closing again due to predicted heavy snow this weekend. We squeaked through and holy cow that is a scenic road. It’s also the highest road in both states:  After that we came down through Red Lodge and turned to Cody, Wyoming. Today is Erica’s birthday and my cousin’s wedding. It’s a big family gathering, and we won’t be there: 
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May 28, 2022 22:13
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Bummer. At this point, I think everyone's just gonna get bit. Hopefully it ain't bad. Nice pictures, save the last one.
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May 29, 2022 00:44
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Smart to bring tests before a gathering. I'm happy to see your FJ back on the road, doing what it was meant to do instead of being a show queen. sharkytm posted:Bummer. At this point, I think everyone's just gonna get bit. Hopefully it ain't bad. Pretty much this, just hopefully by milder and milder variants - I'm pretty sure this is just going to eventually be another thing we need to get a jab for every year, like the flu. I thought, given my vaccine antibody levels, I wouldn't get it (I was in an antibody study at the time). Still got it with my vaccine antibodies too high to get a number from (final blood draw was a few weeks after recovering, showed I had natural antibodies as well now), but it was very mild for me. Not much worse than allergies or a cold, but here it is a few months later and I still have a cough and not a ton of energy. And now a $#@!*( blood clot in my arm that's being a dick. kastein posted:Honestly a loose driveshaft and a drum brake issue are pretty good things to have as break-in issues rather than something more difficult and expensive to source. This too. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 00:58 on May 29, 2022 |
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May 29, 2022 00:53
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How was the Old Faithful Inn?
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May 30, 2022 05:01
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| # ? May 20, 2024 22:19 |
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Okay, I have been putting off an update for WAY too long. Old Faithful Inn was good; next time we’ll probably try the lodge. Not much to say other than it’s a hotel room with a great location. Before I do my update, though, I have a problem:  I need to figure out where to buy new fuel line fittings. The piece leaking, assuming it’s not the hose (please be the hose!) is the piece that mounts to the top of the tank and is also the fuel pump bracket. I’m going to have to desolder the fuel lines, solder in new lines, and put a new fitting on the end of that. I *think* it’s an M14x1.5 inverted flare nut. I would like a replacement in stainless, to fit 5/16” copper-nickel line. I cannot for the life of me find such a fitting. Can anyone else? McMaster-Carr doesn’t seem to have anything even close. I can find non-stainless on Amazon but that’s about it. Eventually (this winter) I will need to do the rest of the fuel lines so I’ll also need that female fitting. I’m open to replacing everything with a different fitting size but I’m also adamant about keeping everything metric.
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Jul 14, 2022 03:12
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