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nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

Meow Meow Meow posted:

I don't have a website to tell you, but can offer some anecdotal advice, more from a woodworker perspective than anything.

In general any hardwood species is going to hold up well as a floor, some more than others, you can look up janka hardness scales for various woods. In general exotic woods will be the hardest, then things like oak, maple, ash, hickory with fruitwoods closer to the bottom like cherry or walnut.

If you can afford it, keeping the wood a natural colour will look nicer over the long run, because scratches and dings will be the same colour within the wood as on top. If you get an oak hardwood that is stained to be a dark brown walnut colour then when it inevitably gets scratched the scratch will be highlighted because the natural light brown oak colour will show up through the scratch on the dark brown top coat. However, that can get expensive quickly depending on what colour you are thinking.

I would also recommend getting pre-finished hardwood, a factory finish is going to be way more scratch resistant and resilient than anything that can be applied in your house.

For maintenance I don't do anything special, just sweep and vacuum as usual. When I mop, I make sure to really wring out the mop as I don't want to get water standing in the seams and swelling it, but that's pretty much it.

On LVP, I do have it in my basement and like it down there.
One thing I would add is that if you're worried about durability, some woods are much more moisture resistant than other. White Oak, for example, is moisture resistant enough to make outdoor furniture while res oak isn't.
That said, my parent's coast house has red oak in the bathrooms and the kitchen (previous owner) and it was installed in the late 60s and has held up great. We just did a new refinish this year and it looked new.
This is a beach house with renters and the occasionally not allowed dog (one of which hosed up our door by pawing the crap out of it). If it can survive that, it can serve anything.
(Don't install oak in your bathroom. "Fumed oak" is oak exposed to ammonia, and guess what urine contains? By the toilet is the only place we had to replace boards. Which honestly isn't a huge deal either, but don't)

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Leo
Oct 25, 2005


Final Blog Entry posted:

Sikaflex would be good but going directly over the old sealant isnt the best idea and you may not have enough depth for best performance. Minimum depth on Sikaflex is 1/4" and you don't want adhesion to the bottom of the joint, only to the sides. If the depth is good you could probably put some bond breaker tape over the old sealant and apply over that, otherwise you ought to remove the old sealant and drop some fresh backer rod in there to apply the sealant over.

Thanks for the replies. I did some more testing and the leak is actually coming from these holes. Is Sikaflex the right things or is there something more specific for this to plug up this gap? They don't need to flex/expand, I would think?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Leo posted:

Thanks for the replies. I did some more testing and the leak is actually coming from these holes. Is Sikaflex the right things or is there something more specific for this to plug up this gap? They don't need to flex/expand, I would think?



That looks like patched material over the original seam sealer. Sikaflex would work, but you'd have to dig out that patch.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.




home maintenance is hard work but i take it seriously.


(i gotta untangle all the hoses this weekend and re-set the counterweight)


edit: oh thank god it had a quick disconnect all hail the PO

Deviant fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Apr 26, 2022

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Does anyone know what paint or product I should use to paint exposed rebar with after wire wheeling it to inhibit rust before I patch some exposed spots on my foundation?

Ideally something I can brush on because I don't want to cover the surrounding concrete.

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer

Deviant posted:



home maintenance is hard work but i take it seriously.


(i gotta untangle all the hoses this weekend and re-set the counterweight)


edit: oh thank god it had a quick disconnect all hail the PO

My mom's kitchen faucet has a similar problem, except the counterweight is set properly, it's just the pull out trash/recycling carrier gets in the way of the counterweight falling freely. You've got to pull the trash out a bit to get it to fully reseat.

For some reason the trash bin doesn't get in the way of it pulling out, just going back in.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

SpartanIvy posted:

Does anyone know what paint or product I should use to paint exposed rebar with after wire wheeling it to inhibit rust before I patch some exposed spots on my foundation?

Ideally something I can brush on because I don't want to cover the surrounding concrete.

I'd go right to POR 15 or chassis saver.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
Looking for a recommendation on a decent under-sink water filter that has it's own little faucet that can use my sink's soap dispense/air gap hole/new hole I make myself. Ideally an established brand who's filters I can reasonably still get in a few years time.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

DrBouvenstein posted:

Looking for a recommendation on a decent under-sink water filter that has it's own little faucet that can use my sink's soap dispense/air gap hole/new hole I make myself. Ideally an established brand who's filters I can reasonably still get in a few years time.

If you don稚 find one, you can use the soap dispenser for vodka. Good for cleaning and adding a few pumps to a drink

OnceIWasAnOstrich
Jul 22, 2006

DrBouvenstein posted:

Looking for a recommendation on a decent under-sink water filter that has it's own little faucet that can use my sink's soap dispense/air gap hole/new hole I make myself. Ideally an established brand who's filters I can reasonably still get in a few years time.

I've been using an under-sink reverse osmosis filter system from HomeMaster/ThePerfectWater for the last four years. They come as complete systems mostly-assembled with filters, tank, faucet, and optionally pump. I didn't use the free faucet but I just picked up a nicer one that matched by existing kitchen faucet for about $30 and swapped it in with no effort. It does an excellent job in general, but specifically in completely eliminating the chlorine smell/taste that our water system gets every six months when they flush it with chloramine or whatever exactly it is they do.

I initially got the "artesian" setup with a mineralizing column but didn't care for the taste so they just sent me an extra charcoal column for free to swap in. The systems are modular and all the tubing and connectors are pretty standard, so I think you could probably have luck replacing consumables even if they disappeared. I replace the components on their recommended schedule and haven't noticed any changes in taste around the year mark before I replace things.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I'm just about done treating the efflorescence in the (dark brown) tile grout in the entry, now have to do the kitchen. I've done many treatments but also I've been insanely conservative. At this point, putting on distilled white vinegar without further diluting it, letting it sit like 15 minutes is pretty effective - you can hear all the salt reacting with it. after 15 minutes scrub with a grout brush, thoroughly sponge the floor with cold water and dry. then over the next day or two the salt slowly comes out of the grout and lies on the surface. thankfully glazed porcelain is very resistant to any damage from acids. other materials (stone, marble, granite, travertine), not so much

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf
Nothing like getting ready for bed and discovering a pool of water under your washing machine. :piss:

I tore the case off and it looks like it may have just splashed water out the top from an unbalanced load. At the very least it's not actively leaking thank God.

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

SpartanIvy posted:

Nothing like getting ready for bed and discovering a pool of water under your washing machine. :piss:

I tore the case off and it looks like it may have just splashed water out the top from an unbalanced load. At the very least it's not actively leaking thank God.

This is why I have one of those water alarms under mine (get a pair and put one under the water heater, too).

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Wallet posted:

This is why I have one of those water alarms under mine (get a pair and put one under the water heater, too).

Could you recommend a brand/type of water sensor alarm thing?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

I just got the dreaded E15 (water leak) alarm on my teutonic perfection Bosch Benchmark dishwasher and learned something new: There is a channel under the door that funnels any water from a door leak into the leak tub (which lifts the float and hits the sensor that causes an E15). Not a single drop of water got on the floor so it did it's job. The culprit: the bottom seal, which is part of the door assembly had crud on it and wasn't sealing well. You can't see this one at all, but if you reach around the bottom part of your door you'll feel it.

All of the online advice for E15 was stupid. Either useless crap like pull it out and tilt it at a 45 degree angle for an hour - which I suppose is to drain all of the water is caught in the leak tub (and then what? run it again and have it leak more?), telling you to tighten the screws on the bottom of the tub in case the gasket is leaking, or sponsored links to a myriad of parts to buy that could cause the error.

While I'm sure some of those suggestions are useful at some point, nothing I found mentioned the absolute simplest thing of cleaning the gaskets. Finding an exploded diagram made it pretty obvious this should be something you look at first as it makes it obvious that the door is the most obvious source of water into the leak tank.

In any case, I've run 2 empty loads and all appears to be well. I'm going to screw it back into the counter/put the kickplate back on. Hopefully this helps somebody else with this problem, or reminds you to clean the gaskets (especially the one you can't see in the door bottom) before you ever have this issue.

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe
Clean the gaskets? I have small kids and run the dishwasher every day. My dishwasher should be the cleanest thing in my house.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I'm a total Bosch DW fan and periodically wipe down the gaskets that have dirty dishes drip stuff on them when loading, but I don't think I've gotten down and taking a good look at the bottom seal. I'll do that today.

Speaking of, how often are you guys pulling the strainer and cleaning it out?

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010

slidebite posted:

I'm a total Bosch DW fan and periodically wipe down the gaskets that have dirty dishes drip stuff on them when loading, but I don't think I've gotten down and taking a good look at the bottom seal. I'll do that today.

Speaking of, how often are you guys pulling the strainer and cleaning it out?

We have some fancy GE that came with the house, and I'll clean the filter when I remember which is something like weekly, or if it yells at me, I'll clean it then. It's usually not too bad.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
Would it be awful (from a practical or resale perspective) to put in laminate through my whole house with underfloor heating so that it痴 not frigid? I知 to the point where I just really really don稚 like carpet anymore and want it gone with maybe some runner rugs or area rugs in specific places. I live in Michigan so the underfloor heating part is important I guess, but with three pets carpet is a pain to maintain and it constantly feels dirty. Even if it痴 freshly vacuumed you can steam clean it and you値l always get a bunch more grody stuff out, and I致e felt the same way at my last few apartments as well.

Not sure if that would hugely impact the resale value, but at this point I don稚 see a huge chance that I move in the near future.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Paul MaudDib posted:

Would it be awful (from a practical or resale perspective) to put in laminate through my whole house with underfloor heating so that it痴 not frigid? I知 to the point where I just really really don稚 like carpet anymore and want it gone with maybe some runner rugs or area rugs in specific places. I live in Michigan so the underfloor heating part is important I guess, but with three pets carpet is a pain to maintain and it constantly feels dirty. Even if it痴 freshly vacuumed you can steam clean it and you値l always get a bunch more grody stuff out, and I致e felt the same way at my last few apartments as well.

Not sure if that would hugely impact the resale value, but at this point I don稚 see a huge chance that I move in the near future.

I have laminate floors and am also in a very cold area, it's worked out well for me. Didn't do underfloor heating because I just wear socks, but it's definitely a big improvement over carpet (I have a dog). It's also very scratch resistant which is nice for dog nails, and it looks just like wood. I'm not sure I would use it in the whole house, I like tile in kitchens and bathrooms, and just lino in utility closets

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

I'm in Canada and when we built our current home (2-storey) I made a point of putting premium vinyl plank (that's gotta be an oxymoron) throughout the house, because, like you I dislike carpet and the dust that it inevitably always retains, and other clean up issues especially if you have pets. We went with cork after 5 years on our last house even a well maintained 5 year old carpet will absolutely shower you with ground in crud when you rip it out.

Mrs. Slidebite had veto on plank in the basement so we did agreed on a low cut closed loop, almost Berber type carpet there.

5 years later in our current home I personally wish we did plank throughout but I am OK with our compromise.

That said, I have been in houses since that have not had carpet in the basement and it is quite cool on the feet. I think heating would fix that for sure, but a few strategically placed non-permanent carpets (like decent quality large-ish throw rugs where the feet hit the floor coming out of bed) might be adequate as well.

In floor heating for the bathroom/en suite might also be enough, but heating the entire floor for sure would take a chill off. It will probably somewhat heat your entire room tbh.

There are some people that might frown on it for resale, but it would actively be a huge positive for me. Carpets are disgusting and many owners will replace them as soon as they buy a home (similar to painting) or maybe even before they list it for showing purposes.

Something to consider if you do this throughout, assuming you have stairs, is precisely how you'll do the stairs. Carpeted stairs are typically deeper but you will want to put noses on with plank/laminate and also decide how to finish the rise. Tile? Wood? In the end we went with a wood painted gloss off white to basically match our baseboards and window trim.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 18:17 on Apr 27, 2022

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I'm now treating the kitchen grout in two sections, if you look very closely, you may be able to tell which section I have treated and which I have not

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I'm a big fan of having hard surfaces in the home (wood/laminate/tile etc) with rugs on top.

You get the visual option and practical durability of a hard floor but you can add a soft/warm rug somewhere that you want it. From a design perspective, rugs can add a lot of character to a room and create a focal point, or they can just be boring colors and blend in. You can add padding beneath them, you can clean them, you can swap them out easily.

When you have hardwoods/tile throughout your house, you might feel like they get dirty more often. Its just that the dirt has nowhere to hide. In carpet, the dirt just sinks into the fibers. Vacuuming will only pick up so much. At least on hardwoods you can remove most/all of it. You can take rugs outside and beat them. You can deep clean them. I grew up in carpeted houses and didn't like it. My parents smoked in the house for a while. I grew to hate carpet because I feel like its a giant air filter that just traps smells and dirt.

Also if you want to talk about waste, I think carpet is super wasteful. Lots of material to create a roll of carpet that might have a 20 year lifespan and just gets trashed. Plus the padding. God I hated helping family rip up carpet.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

I've heard LVP is vulnerable to damage from direct sunlight, which I have with SW facing windows

Harriet Carker
Jun 2, 2009

I just bought my first house. Big mistake? Only time will tell!

But the first thing I知 doing is removing the carpets and putting in red oak floors in the bedrooms and living rooms.

Qwijib0
Apr 10, 2007

Who needs on-field skills when you can dance like this?

Fun Shoe

slidebite posted:

I'm a total Bosch DW fan and periodically wipe down the gaskets that have dirty dishes drip stuff on them when loading, but I don't think I've gotten down and taking a good look at the bottom seal. I'll do that today.

Speaking of, how often are you guys pulling the strainer and cleaning it out?

Monthly, maybe? Mostly when I知 pulling a large food scrap that I forgot to scrape and while I知 bent down I just remove and clean it

Wallet
Jun 19, 2006

Johnny Truant posted:

Could you recommend a brand/type of water sensor alarm thing?

Honestly I just picked some on Amazon (and tested them to confirm they work correctly). I didn't want a bunch of wifi IOT bullshit so I just got the normal rear end ones that take a 9-volt and have two contacts that get bridged if they're in water.

Eason the Fifth
Apr 9, 2020

Harriet Carker posted:

I just bought my first house. Big mistake? Only time will tell!

But the first thing I知 doing is removing the carpets and putting in red oak floors in the bedrooms and living rooms.

what up dude i'm 4 months into this and every sound, every creak, I think, what is this going to cost

peanut
Sep 9, 2007


actionjackson posted:

I've heard LVP is vulnerable to damage from direct sunlight, which I have with SW facing windows

No problems in our house after 6 years, we have lvp in every room. The bathrooms are tile-look lvp. Our windows have a blueish glaze… to help block UV? Or was it for heat?
The wallpaper has discoloration behind some art, but I think that's actually from the cheap frame materials x_____x

Mad Wack
Mar 27, 2008

"The faster you use your cooldowns, the faster you can use them again"

Eason the Fifth posted:

what up dude i'm 4 months into this and every sound, every creak, I think, what is this going to cost

5 months in and having similar intrusive thoughts

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

peanut posted:

No problems in our house after 6 years, we have lvp in every room. The bathrooms are tile-look lvp. Our windows have a blueish glaze… to help block UV? Or was it for heat?
The wallpaper has discoloration behind some art, but I think that's actually from the cheap frame materials x_____x

if you have something that blocks UV rays that probably helps a lot

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Motronic posted:

I just got the dreaded E15 (water leak) alarm on my teutonic perfection Bosch Benchmark dishwasher and learned something new: There is a channel under the door that funnels any water from a door leak into the leak tub (which lifts the float and hits the sensor that causes an E15). Not a single drop of water got on the floor so it did it's job. The culprit: the bottom seal, which is part of the door assembly had crud on it and wasn't sealing well. You can't see this one at all, but if you reach around the bottom part of your door you'll feel it

YOU WILL FEEL THE SLIME. Hope a meal wasn't in the works...

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

actionjackson posted:

I've heard LVP is vulnerable to damage from direct sunlight, which I have with SW facing windows

Damage as in breaking? Pretty much everything gets sunburned by UV after enough exposure. Real wood certainly does.

gwrtheyrn
Oct 21, 2010

AYYYE DEEEEE DUBBALYOO DA-NYAAAAAH!
My understanding is it's more the heat from direct sunlight that's bad for LVP. The UV might fade the floors, but the heat can cause it to warp.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

BigFactory posted:

Damage as in breaking? Pretty much everything gets sunburned by UV after enough exposure. Real wood certainly does.

here's some references looks like direct sunlight is the issue which is why I mentioned south and west facing windows. there is damage in some of these photos, like buckling. I think you are supposed to use some sort of window treatments.

https://cleanfax.com/hard-floor-care/luxury-vinyl-lvt-kryptonite/

https://www.builddirect.com/learning-center/flooring/how-to-stop-your-vinyl-plank-flooring-from-buckling/

actionjackson fucked around with this message at 03:18 on Apr 28, 2022

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Harriet Carker posted:

I just bought my first house. Big mistake? Only time will tell!

But the first thing I知 doing is removing the carpets and putting in red oak floors in the bedrooms and living rooms.

it's always a mistake. but at least it's a mistake you can keep your stuff in.

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




Finally got around to priming my exposed drywall paper, easy peasy. What I didn't think would throw me for a loop was cleaning my brush. Oil based paint... doesn't really wash out with water :derp: I started cleaning it like I would any water-based paint, in my basement sink basin, and ended up with my hands just completely covered in the paint, lol.

Final Blog Entry
Jun 23, 2006

"Love us with money or we'll hate you with hammers!"

slidebite posted:

Speaking of, how often are you guys pulling the strainer and cleaning it out?

Well this post made me clean out my neglected strainer on my Bosch dishwasher. I didn't find a whole bunch of food crap, but I did find a nice sliver of a glass that I guess broke in there at some point and got a nice cut on my finger. Thanks jerk!

NotNut
Feb 4, 2020
Do they make faced insulation batts in any widths besides 15 and 24? I have gaps to fill that are 17 inches wide.

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

NotNut posted:

Do they make faced insulation batts in any widths besides 15 and 24? I have gaps to fill that are 17 inches wide.

I've seen 15.5, 16 and 23 before, but that's specialty stuff. Just use a 2x4 or something as a guide, compact it down with your foot and the guide and cut it with a razor knife. You can peel some facing off of the cut side to use for stapling (so cut to the width you need to span with the facing, not just cavity width).

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