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LRADIKAL posted:Now, granted we're chasing little percentages, but isn't there some advantage to the mem frequency being double the infinity fabric speed? so 1800/3600 even if you have to relax a timing or two? Kind of. What you're seeking is a 1:1 ratio between the FCLK and UCLK (IF frequency and memory controller frequency). This is dependent on silicon lottery, but Zen 3 tends to struggle going higher than 1900MHz on its FCLK, while this point for Zen 2 is typically around 1800MHz. Exceeding those points with your memory (doubled for memory speed) will break this 1:1 ratio and result in a lot of extra latency. That said, maintaining the 1:1 ratio is something motherboards BIOSes tend to handle automatically in their overclocking menu. You set a memory speed, and it'll adjust the other clocks to accommodate. You generally only have to worry about going too fast, not going too slow. So if you set your DDR speed to 3600, the FCLK will be automatically set to 1800. 3200, the FCLK should be 1600, etc. I hope I didn't scuff this explanation too badly. Other people know more about this than me. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Apr 30, 2022 |
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Apr 30, 2022 04:08
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Sounds about like what I remember. I've had my memory pretty tuned in for a while now.
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Apr 30, 2022 05:06
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How is this Seasonic Prime GX-750 for a I5-12400 + GTX 3060 system? Not questioning it's ability to deliver enough power, just wondering if anyone has any experience with it in terms of noise/reliability. I didn't do enough research and got a CM Masterwatt 650 for my new rig, which apparently has a common problem where there's an audible 'thunk' whenever the fan kicks on if the PSU is facing fan-down (kind of uh, a common config). Driving me nuts so looking to replace it in the return window.
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May 1, 2022 23:04
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I've been having some problems with my PC today - it turned itself off while gaming and after that it shuts itself as soon as starting up a game (I've checked War Thunder and Yakuza 1). I'm fairly certain it's not CPU or memory related (memcheck and some CPU stress test worked out fine), but either GPU or PSU (PC also shut down as soon as I started Furmark). After some minor debugging (lowering the graphics to minimum, cleaning the inside of any dust, updating BIOS), the thing that seems to have fixed the problem is reattaching my PCIe PSU cables, but it leaves two questions: a) what can I do to pinpoint the issue to PSU/GPU - I don't have a spare laying of either of them and I don't have iGPU b) is this a sign to maybe change one of these components? PSU has just passed 5 years of usage (and I'm leaning towards this being the issue) and it's (Corsair RM550x) powering up a 12900KF and 1070
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May 4, 2022 12:34
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It sounds like a loose cable was the issue and maybe just enough pins were still socketed to drive windows but not games. 5 years is about when its recommended to replace a psu though, so it can't do any harm. HWinfo is good for checking the temperature and clocks of your gpu. I don't know any good ways of troubleshooting a psu without a spare beyond using a multimeter, which probably isn't going to be very helpful anyways. I think the pins of psu cables can differ between manufacturers so if your psu is modular, make sure to buy cables from the same manufacturer if you think that is the problem.
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May 4, 2022 14:12
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Happy_Misanthrope posted:How is this Seasonic Prime GX-750 for a I5-12400 + GTX 3060 system? Not questioning it's ability to deliver enough power, just wondering if anyone has any experience with it in terms of noise/reliability. I can't speak to that PSU specifically, but Seasonic is a notable player in the field. I've got a Focus GX-650 powering a 3600 and 3060Ti in an ITX case, and I can't say I've ever noticed noise from that. The warranty is hard to beat too, so it might seem indulgent, but it's definitely one component I see no good reason not to splurge a little bit on. That said, a Focus series PSU might be a decent way to save a few bucks since the one you've linked is out of stock.
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May 7, 2022 15:30
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Kind of. What you're seeking is a 1:1 ratio between the FCLK and UCLK (IF frequency and memory controller frequency). This is dependent on silicon lottery, but Zen 3 tends to struggle going higher than 1900MHz on its FCLK, while this point for Zen 2 is typically around 1800MHz. Exceeding those points with your memory (doubled for memory speed) will break this 1:1 ratio and result in a lot of extra latency. That said, maintaining the 1:1 ratio is something motherboards BIOSes tend to handle automatically in their overclocking menu. You set a memory speed, and it'll adjust the other clocks to accommodate. You generally only have to worry about going too fast, not going too slow. So if you set your DDR speed to 3600, the FCLK will be automatically set to 1800. 3200, the FCLK should be 1600, etc. What's the best test program to characterize these effects with my system?
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May 13, 2022 03:51
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I've recently switched my mouse from a wireless Corsair one to a wired Logitech one and I'm suddenly having issues with my USB switch / hub. The hub is some no-brand one I got cheap off Amazon at the start of the pandemic so I could easily hook my mouse and keyboard up to my work laptop and it continues to work perfectly for that. However, when I play fullscreen games on my PC the mouse "stutters" where every few seconds it loses input for half a second or so. If I plug the mouse directly into the PC it works fine so I'm assuming the USB hub just isn't able to get enough power to the mouse and keyboard? I never had any issues with the Corsair one even when I plugged it in. There's an option for power over micro USB on the hub but that doesn't seem to have done anything (it's possible that the cable I dug out of my cable drawer isn't supplying enough power). I've also gone into Device Manager in Windows and unchecked "turn this device off to save power" for all USB devices. It's a bit weird that the issue only happens when I'm playing games full screen - could it be something about how Windows handles fullscreen? I have desktop scaling on as I'm using a 4k monitor.
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May 16, 2022 16:58
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What have you plugged that cable into for the power into the hub? I believe you are intended to plug that into a 1A plug like what you'd plug your phone cable into for charging. That's how I have mine set up and it's been flawless with four devices plugged in (mic, keyboard, mouse, webcam).
VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 18:35 on May 16, 2022 |
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May 16, 2022 17:38
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I plugged it into a powered USB port on the back of my PC - I wasn't able to find a cable long enough to reach a wall socket. I'll move things around to test it plugged in properly and see if that fixes things.
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May 16, 2022 18:29
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Party Boat posted:I plugged it into a powered USB port on the back of my PC - I wasn't able to find a cable long enough to reach a wall socket. I'll move things around to test it plugged in properly and see if that fixes things. You could just use a USB battery pack for now to see if it works, they generally give the right amperage. e: USB 1/2 give up to 500mA and USB 3 give up to 900mA, but who knows how much you're actually getting to the hub.
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May 16, 2022 18:35
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I've just tried it plugged into a power socket and it still stuttered. Then I tried turning desktop scaling off and the stutter immediately disappeared. No idea why that's the case but I might need to take this one to the Windows thread. Thanks for the suggestions!
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May 16, 2022 19:01
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i have this monitor and a bare mainboard from frame.work. I plugged it into the monitor via the LG-provided USB-C cable and it booted right up with power, UHD video, and the other USB ports on the monitor active/hubbed with just the 1 cable. cool! i 3d-printed their vesa mount and sticky-taped it to the back of the monitor. i'd like to replace the long-ish LG-provided cable with a shorter one since the connection is < 12 inches now. my problem is that no other cable functions as power+video+usb. i have tried several good quality 65-100w usb-c cables and even bought a new cable rated for usb-4/8k/100w from amazon to troubleshoot with no luck. if the computer boots it never creates a /dev/fb0 device and so comes up headless. plugging a usb-c/DP adapter in gets video going but that's coming out of my laptop go-bag. what is special about the cable that comes with it? looking at the specs in the LG manual, it doesn't say anything about usb 3/4 or thunderbolt. vvvvvvvvvvvvvv edit vvvvvvvvvvvvvv VelociBacon posted:Just checking - it's USB-C on both ends of the table right? yes it is nine16thsdago fucked around with this message at 20:49 on May 16, 2022 |
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May 16, 2022 20:10
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nine16thsdago posted:i have this monitor and a bare mainboard from frame.work. I plugged it into the monitor via the LG-provided USB-C cable and it booted right up with power, UHD video, and the other USB ports on the monitor active/hubbed with just the 1 cable. cool! Just checking - it's USB-C on both ends of the table right? Sounds similar to what you tried but I use this cable for a similar application and it works fine.
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May 16, 2022 20:23
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QQ - if an m.2 has a (claimed) max speed 2100MB/s and is made for PCIe 3.0x4 but I use it with PCIe 3.0x2 instead that basically works out the same, yeah?
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May 20, 2022 23:19
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So, I'm helping a friend's widow out and am trying to troubleshoot the family computer. It crashes a lot, sometimes four times a day, and I don't have a lot of diagnostic historical information, as he was the technical person and his wife has very little technical knowledge. I'm the only nearby relation with any experience with tech, but I haven't done dedicated small systems support in a decade other than my stuff at home. Here's what I've tried so far and what I've observed: The only clues I have is that he had purchased a new video card (which I went ahead and installed, since why not) and that he had mentioned to her that it was "a strange motherboard issue" which, honestly could be anything. For starters, I wanted to backup data just in case, so booted into Medicat's MiniWin10 and robocopied some data off. Both times I tried, it eventually bluescreened - first time with a "KMODE Exception not handled. What failed:win32kfulla.sys" and the second time with an "irql not less or equal" error. Both of these generally indicate driver issues, but given that I'm running on WinPE (and similar crashes happen on the normal Windows install), I suspect a hardware problem. It's a Dell XPS 8700 (Yes, this is ancient, and yes I'm going to arrange for them to get something newer soon, but there's a lot of ephemeral stuff like saved passwords and logins I don't want to try moving over right now until we get things stabilized for them) - it has three slots of 4GB DDR3 1600mhz RAM, and I'm suspecting that's a tip as well. I ran Prime95 overnight in Large FFT mode, and it was perfectly fine (even under the native Windows install), and other memory tests similarly didn't discover anything, but I still suspect some sort of weird memory problem. I'm going to try removing all the RAM except for one module and repeating the backups, and see if I can narrow it down to a single RAM module or slot that might be acting up. I might also purchase some replacement modules just to give it a shot since DDR3 is cheap. Long story short: what other diagnostics could I perform or try to get this working?
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May 26, 2022 17:29
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Is it filthy dusty inside? Clean the fans and heat sinks. I say this because, as you said, it’s ancient.
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May 26, 2022 17:32
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Bad Munki posted:Is it filthy dusty inside? Clean the fans and heat sinks. I say this because, as you said, it’s ancient. Nope! Pretty clean honestly, was surprised. Few little cobwebs, and I'll hit it with the air, but way better than I was expecting.
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May 26, 2022 17:36
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If it was crashing from overheating the p95 overnight would have demonstrated that IMO. OP run memtest overnight I'm guessing something is up with the RAM.
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May 26, 2022 17:38
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No option to pull and image the drive before anything else?
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May 26, 2022 20:12
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Flipperwaldt posted:No option to pull and image the drive before anything else? I have a cradle that's with my inlaws right now; so I've gotta go pick it up first. I'll probably do that and just store the images on the external drive I've been just robocopying things onto.
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May 26, 2022 20:22
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Something of that age I would probably look at faulty power supply or motherboard capacitors
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May 26, 2022 20:30
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FCKGW posted:Something of that age I would probably look at faulty power supply or motherboard capacitors Oh wow, I hadn't actually considered that. Both of those could produce some of the unexpected behavior we've seen.
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May 26, 2022 20:58
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I had a couple of those XPS 8700s at a client's office I had to deal with. Both had flaky hard drives, one was solved by replacing it with an SSD. The other one toils on crashing frequently with no hope in sight. Dell also throws in garbage little video cards just for monitor outputs (not because they're good cards) which I've seen fail before. Since it's over 5 years old it could definitely be the power supply, though.
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May 26, 2022 21:48
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Rexxed posted:I had a couple of those XPS 8700s at a client's office I had to deal with. Both had flaky hard drives, one was solved by replacing it with an SSD. The other one toils on crashing frequently with no hope in sight. Dell also throws in garbage little video cards just for monitor outputs (not because they're good cards) which I've seen fail before. Since it's over 5 years old it could definitely be the power supply, though. So this is an interesting point because it was while copying data off of this drive in particular, the original HDD that things have been crashing; I got my USB Sata enclosure and dropped the drive in and booted into medicat on other hardware (work computer), and almost immediately had issues reading the drive. Booting directly into Macrium Reflect seems to be working alright so I'm going to try getting an image off of it. Luckily I think this is just an old hard drive that's already been backed up (file structure seems almost identical to the other one and is mostly iphone backups), but I don't want to risk anything if I can help it. Once I can get the drives backed up there's a lot less pressure to figure out what to do next. Thanks y'all for the suggestions, btw.
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May 27, 2022 05:41
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Can anyone recommend a good and reputable harddrive repair and data backup site? A friend of the family's external drive stopped working. It's a seagate and when you turn it on it just beeps a couple of times. I checked online and it's because the drive head is stuck. This is beyond my skill to repair and even if I could I don't have a safe environment in which to perform such a repair. The drive itself is of no consequence but I was told it contains a ton of vacation pictures and whatnot and they want to try to get them off the drive on to their new one. I could have them talk to seagate but I don't know how well their customer service is and if they'll properly repair the drive without ruining it. As I said, it's less about fixing the drive and more about getting the content of the drive off of it. Any help would be appreciated.
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May 30, 2022 03:37
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OnTrack. But it'll cost $$$
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May 30, 2022 04:52
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TITTIEKISSER69 posted:OnTrack. But it'll cost $$$ Yes, and yes. Still, if they need the contents, that's what to do. The cost can be thought of as a "lack of backup tax".
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May 30, 2022 13:18
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https://www.myharddrivedied.com/ The guy that runs it literally wrote the book on data recovery.
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Jun 2, 2022 03:59
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I don't know anything about electricity and I have an electricity question. I have a Dell WD19 180w docking station (spec sheet). It draws (?) 180W of power. I am missing a cable from the wall outlet to the power brick. What power cable should I buy and from where? I saw this cable on monoprice, which appears to be the right shape. However I do not know if it is the right amount. Please advise: https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7689
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Jun 2, 2022 23:18
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Jinnigan posted:I don't know anything about electricity and I have an electricity question. Yeah that will work fine if it's the right shape. It's rates to 1250w.
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Jun 3, 2022 00:03
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I have a hardware issue that is driving me mad. I have a 30" Dell U3014 that has a built in USB 3.0 hub/card reader. I've used this monitor for about a year on my Win10 pro WFH PC, which *does not* have USB3.0, and have used the hub for many things at 2.0 speed. Today I moved the monitor to my main PC, Win10 pro, *with* USB3.0. When I plug the monitor into the USB slot, every 5 seconds I heard the "device unplugged" sound. And I can see device manager refreshing. Even after I install the drivers from Dell's site. I can't catch in Device Manager exactly what is going on, I see nothing with an obvious "X" even with "show hidden devices" enabled. I downloaded a USB device logger to see if that was causing it, but it didn't report any unexpected events (and I did test it by plugging/unplugging a USB DAC). Any idea how to diagnose this? Or ran into a similar issue?
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Jun 7, 2022 04:56
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The first thing I'd do is try another cable. USB 3 requires a lot more conductors than 2 and one might be broken. I broke a pin on the usb 3.0 header on my motherboard and it was a nightmare trying to get anything working on the front panel until I did some sketchy fixes.
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Jun 7, 2022 05:36
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Rexxed posted:The first thing I'd do is try another cable. USB 3 requires a lot more conductors than 2 and one might be broken. I broke a pin on the usb 3.0 header on my motherboard and it was a nightmare trying to get anything working on the front panel until I did some sketchy fixes. Yeah this, also a low quality USB 3 cable will routinely disconnect due to noise on the pairs even when it was fine at USB 2 speeds. Real fun if you try throwing a multimeter on it assuming a fully broken connector.
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Jun 7, 2022 23:14
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I have a hard drive that was filling up, so I looked at some WD Blue drives earlier today and one of the reviews went on about the drives being SMR instead of CMR. And boy were they heated reviews. Is that something I need to really be concerned about, if the drive is SMR? The drive I'd be replacing is just an extra internal drive that I use for light storage access. And finding 2tb WB drives that are CMR just leads me to old stock pulled from servers and ridiculously price new stock.
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Jun 8, 2022 00:21
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not unless it's a server, largely, particularly one running RAID. it's less performant but for non-NAS use i think it's fine, it's what i bought. you should buy something bigger than 2tb though if you can afford it, i think on a per gig basis 4 or 6 are generally cheaper.
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Jun 8, 2022 01:27
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Yeah, I'd probably go with a 4tb for sure. Thanks.
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Jun 8, 2022 02:10
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Try running a temperature monitor and looking at your CPU temp while gaming. It's possible that you're getting thermal throttling on your CPU due to a bad cooler mount. I ended up buying 3Dmark and all the scores were like 30% less than similar computers with no thermal issues, but figured out it wasn't boosting and after some more messing around figured out whatever ASUS EZ tune settings prevented it from boosting and kept it at the base block speed. It gets up to 75C on a 240AIO exhausting out from the top. Not sure if I should use this as an excuse to put in 3 120s up front instead of the 2 140s and add RGB for my six month old to stare at.
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Jun 8, 2022 19:05
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Adambomb0 posted:I ended up buying 3Dmark and all the scores were like 30% less than similar computers with no thermal issues, but figured out it wasn't boosting and after some more messing around figured out whatever ASUS EZ tune settings prevented it from boosting and kept it at the base block speed. The 5800X3D is just a bit of a warm chip for everyone, even after AMD lowered the clocks down from the non-3D model. Cooling the 5800X was already non-trivial due to it having the highest stock power density of the initial zen 3 lineup, and the extra layer of cache and silicon filler they've added on top of the compute die has only added to the heat dissipation challenge. So the low 70s is probably about as well as you're gonna do with a 240mm AIO, to be honest, and I don't think changing the front fans will do much.
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Jun 8, 2022 20:08
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Best webcam for home office and daily Zoom / Google Meet calls? From my research, seems like everyone is recommending the Logitech C920 but I'm open for other suggestions.
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Jun 9, 2022 11:42
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