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EVGA 3080 10GB FTW Ultra Gaming for $843 after associate code (viewable at checkout), free shipping for Elite members: https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=10G-P5-3897-KL&associatecode=1QM38CC8XURHUFO Asus Tuf Gaming 3080 10GB for $850, free shipping for everyone: https://shop.asus.com/us/90yv0fb4-mtaa00-tuf-rtx3080-o10g-v2-gaming.html edit: The asus card is out of stock, and the shipping from evga is suddenly outrageous. ($32 for the cheapest 4-day shipping apparently?) weird Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 19:43 on May 2, 2022 |
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Apr 30, 2022 17:22
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Wonder if this means they’re still making 10gb 3080s
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Apr 30, 2022 18:13
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They were missing from the market for a month or two, but they've been back in stock for a while now, with prices falling almost every week. There are still way more 12GBs in stock than 10GBs, but that may just be a result of higher demand for the 10GB card.
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Apr 30, 2022 18:20
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Both of those 3080s are still in stock.
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Apr 30, 2022 19:45
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I hit a problem with my GPU last night so sorry if I've not quite nailed down my objective yet; I have one of these ASUS boxes, about 4.5 years old, was working fine but it's gone to onboard graphics and I can't get the card working again. Is the a GPU I can put in, maybe with a RAM upgrade, that can keep this going, or is it just time to start over if I want to keep playing new games? I'm in the UK if relevant.
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Apr 30, 2022 21:34
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It depends on just how tight your budget is, but there isn't a single thing a PC does these days that wouldn't benefit from a more modern build, and depending on how good of a card you intend to put in it could amount to not that much more to modernize your whole platform rather than try to limp along with something that is becoming more and more dated by the year. Alder Lake, the current Intel gen, has "performance cores" which are big and badass and "efficiency cores" which are lower power. Some enthusiasts disable the e-cores so all ring voltage goes to boosting P-core clocks for games and other tasks less reliant on efficient multi-threading and more about single-core grunt, and give all the L2 cache to the P-cores - that is to say in some circles e-core performance is considered not that important / disposable even when buying higher end parts that have a lot of those smaller cores. And yet for context, the e-cores alone are more powerful per core than Skylake, which is the generation that i7-6700 PC is from. Modern games may not have given you trouble yet, but that will not last for long IMO. I upgraded from a 4770K which I had decently overclocked and the difference between Alder Lake and the old Haswell is night and day. I don't think the older 4-core CPUs are going to let a current gen GPU do its thing well unless it is a basic entry level GPU. Agreed fucked around with this message at 22:00 on Apr 30, 2022 |
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Apr 30, 2022 21:53
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Agreed posted:It depends on just how tight your budget is, but there isn't a single thing a PC does these days that wouldn't benefit from a more modern build, and depending on how good of a card you intend to put in it could amount to not that much more to modernize your whole platform rather than try to limp along with something that is becoming more and more dated by the year. Alder Lake, the current Intel gen, has "performance cores" which are big and badass and "efficiency cores" which are lower power. Some enthusiasts disable the e-cores so all ing voltage goes to boosting P-core clocks for games and other tasks less reliant on efficient multi-threading and more about single-core grunt, and give all the L2 cache to the P-cores. And yet for context, the e-cores are more powerful than Skylake, which is the generation that i7-6700 PC is from. Probably may as well, the stupid ROG case is a ballache to even open , and a new rig saves me me figuring out the exact problem if it's not the GPU itself. Budget may be impacted by my work possibly helping out so will see what I can get off the shelf before coming back here.
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Apr 30, 2022 22:01
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That sounds great man but I was editing and you caught me mid typo  drat me for my haste
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Apr 30, 2022 22:04
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I picked up a DataVac ED-500 and holy poo poo do not use that thing without hearing protection....
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May 1, 2022 00:48
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Shumagorath posted:I picked up a DataVac ED-500 and holy poo poo do not use that thing without hearing protection.... Its a great device. First time I seen a vaccum with a recoil when you turn it on.
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May 1, 2022 02:49
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Shumagorath posted:I picked up a DataVac ED-500 and holy poo poo do not use that thing without hearing protection.... I have tinnitus that’s reactive to loud sounds so I definitely popped some earplugs in before running my new air duster
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May 1, 2022 04:55
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Can you just plug and play m.2 nvme from one pc to another? Like, old rig to new rig and use the operating system i already have?
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May 1, 2022 06:58
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Yeah, it will most likely be fine. Be mindful of your Windows license.
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May 1, 2022 07:25
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RGB Thermalright Frost Spirit cooler for $36 https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Lighting-TL-D14L-TL-C12L-Technology/dp/B08PP4QN76/ LGA 1700 bracket sold separately
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May 1, 2022 11:51
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What gives? The combined load is over 200W so it's not the normal <10% issue with reporting. It's an older Back-UPS Pro 1500... maybe it only reports the master outlet...? Yeah, the older Back-UPS Pro 1500 models with master outlets only report load on that one plug. Great system  Quixotic1 posted:Its a great device. First time I seen a vaccum with a recoil when you turn it on. Shumagorath fucked around with this message at 13:45 on May 1, 2022 |
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May 1, 2022 13:35
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Shumagorath posted:Yours is a vacuum? Mine is the leaf blower from hell. Thankfully I can dust things out on the balcony. Yeah meant blower. I remember when i first used it and the filter immediately got swamped with the dust from the PC after not cleaning it for a while. In other news i bought the 3060 you all recommended and if prices continue to fall i can upgrade and give the 3060 to my dad. Hes got a older card than my old one and wants to play Skyrim/Kingdom Come/Witcher 3 on higher settings for a while now.
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May 1, 2022 14:12
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e: nevermind I'm ok now
Help Im Alive fucked around with this message at 22:30 on May 6, 2022 |
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May 1, 2022 16:56
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I am upgrading from a 9 years old build : i5-4670k / GTX 760 / 8GB RAM. The only parts I changed during that time were the storages. Here is my current list : PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($349.99 @ Newegg Canada) CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D15 chromax.black 82.52 CFM CPU Cooler ($139.94 @ Amazon Canada) Motherboard: Asus PRIME B660-PLUS D4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($173.50 @ Vuugo) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($169.99 @ Amazon Canada) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Canada Computers) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3060 12 GB XC BLACK GAMING Video Card ($650.00 @ Amazon Canada) Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($134.99 @ Newegg Canada) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2021) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Canada Computers) Total: $1978.39 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-05-01 15:29 EDT-0400 My gaming consist mostly of Path of Exile and the occasional random game in-between season. 1. My main question is about the motherboard : I do not intend to tweak with overclocking. Is there any reason for me to go for a higher end motherboard like this one? (Or anything else) Asus ROG STRIX Z690-A($419.00 @ Amazon Canada) 2. Also about the CPU cooler mounting adapter warning: is it common to have to get them separately or are they often included? 3. If you have any suggestion for me go for it I would appreciate it.
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May 1, 2022 20:42
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Triple Twelve posted:I am upgrading from a 9 years old build : i5-4670k / GTX 760 / 8GB RAM. The only parts I changed during that time were the storages. Here is my current list : 1) Nah, you're generally fine going with a cheaper B660 board. You'll lose out on PCIe Gen 5 for your main GPU slot, but there doesn't seem to be much coming out in the near future that would make use of that. Other than that, you're missing an m.2 slot and getting a lower-quality audio chip that most people won't notice, and other miscellaneous downgrades. It's not really a big deal to go with a cheaper motherboard here. The Asus Prime B660-Plus specifically has a mediocre VRM (the part that delivers power to your CPU), but it pairs with the 12600K well. Just don't give anything more powerful to it. 2) That cooler comes with the adapter now. I think PCPartPicker just hasn't updated their database yet to indicate this. Though I'll say that the D15 is pretty overkill for a 12600K. It doesn't generate enough heat to really justify that high-end of a cooler. You can consider the Scythe Fuma 2 instead: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/D3Gbt6/scythe-fuma-2-revb-3944-cfm-cpu-cooler-scfm-2100 3) I thought $650 seemed high for a 3060 even in canuck bucks, so I dug around and found this for $510: https://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=43_557_559&item_id=195324 You can also consider spending $50 more for a 12700F. It's a good performance upgrade over the 12600K for the price and it may last you longer in case you wanted to wait a good while before upgrading again. You'll want another motherboard if you do this though, as I mentioned before. This ASRock B660 Steel Legend should be okay, but I haven't seen any testimonials with this exact combination.
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May 1, 2022 21:23
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So I'm getting close to purchasing a new build and I realized that I had an old case that was practically unused sitting around. It is old but would this case work? https://www.newegg.com/black-corsair-carbide-series-air-240-micro-atx-mini-itx/p/N82E16811139044?Item=N82E16811139044 If it looks fine, it looks to be only for micro and mini ATX motherboards. Is there a recommended mini-ATX motherboard & cooler to go along with a 12600K?
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May 1, 2022 22:11
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Peachfart posted:So I'm getting close to purchasing a new build and I realized that I had an old case that was practically unused sitting around. It is old but would this case work? it's tricky, in theory the limiting factor is the opposite wall (for air at least). that looks like a pretty deep case but i can't find the specific value. it's really designed more for using an AIO, so a water cooling all in one with a radiator (240 it claims to support, so 2x120mm fans). a 240 AIO isn't super expensive i would say, but i am wary because SFF cases can be a gently caress. there's a dedicated thread for it if someone can't help you here.
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May 1, 2022 22:18
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Peachfart posted:So I'm getting close to purchasing a new build and I realized that I had an old case that was practically unused sitting around. It is old but would this case work? The case will work fine as long as you have decent fans. You'll also want to check the measurements of your chosen components, especially your CPU cooler height. You're probably going to end up with a lot of unused space since the case was designed to hold a bunch of 3.5" drives, but that's really only a problem if you have limited desk space. CoolCab posted:it's tricky, in theory the limiting factor is the opposite wall (for air at least). that looks like a pretty deep case but i can't find the specific value. it's really designed more for using an AIO, so a water cooling all in one with a radiator (240 it claims to support, so 2x120mm fans). a 240 AIO isn't super expensive i would say, but i am wary because SFF cases can be a gently caress. there's a dedicated thread for it if someone can't help you here. Call me crazy, but I think that when a case is called "Air 240", it was probably designed around using air cooling.
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May 1, 2022 22:37
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Peachfart posted:So I'm getting close to purchasing a new build and I realized that I had an old case that was practically unused sitting around. It is old but would this case work? It could work—I don't think the Carbide Air 240 was necessarily a bad case—but it's pretty dated. The biggest downside will be how close your GPU will be to the bottom of the case, but it might work out if you get just a two-slot card. CPU cooling will also be restricted since it looks like the cooler clearance is pretty short. I guess you could go with a 240mm AIO like they show on the newegg listing, but that will add a good bit to the cost over what you'd ordinarily need for the 12600K (you're starting at about $80 or $90 for something decent as opposed to $38 for something like this if you had more clearance). grack posted:The case will work fine as long as you have decent fans. You'll also want to check the measurements of your chosen components, especially your CPU cooler height. You're probably going to end up with a lot of unused space since the case was designed to hold a bunch of 3.5" drives, but that's really only a problem if you have limited desk space. A lot of companies add "air" to the names of cases that have crap airflow or are designed for liquid cooling. The motherboard side of this particular case is really narrow due to the dual-chamber design. That means that you're restricted to either low-profile air coolers or water cooling. They show water cooling in the promotional shots, so maybe it's not such a leap to assume it's designed for water cooling. (water cooling is just a fancy version of air cooling anyway) Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 22:50 on May 1, 2022 |
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May 1, 2022 22:46
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grack posted:
nah, it's for sure not based around air cooling with a listed clearance (I found it! assuming it's right) of 120mm, that's going to rule out anything with a standard fan and layout. I think the air just means it pulls a lot of air, and that you can fit a 240 in there. I bet it's going to be a pretty good performer regardless, but I think that's the intended config
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May 1, 2022 22:50
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there are some additional complexities and in particular longevity is going to take a big hit, but from a cost perspective if it's cheaper than a new case something like this you're paying maybe idk 20-30 quid more than a decent cooler with the same number of fans. very very seldom do i argue for aios on cost basis, lol, but there maybe could be a justification in this extremely specific use case? i don't really have a great grasp on what your options are at 120mm of clearance other than "you can't use the most common fan type unless you want only one placed horizontally".
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May 1, 2022 23:00
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Argona posted:How often do most people upgrade their CPU? I have a a B450 motherboard and a ryzen 3600. Should I upgrade to a 5800x3d? Would I have to upgrade my motherboard as well? I'm not particularly dying for an upgrade or anything and was originally planning to wait, but I've been noticing the occasional hitch in risk of rain 2. I'm not really a AAA gamer, so I can wait for a good DDR5 board if thats the better play. incredibly circumstantial evidence but i’ve had a new desktop pc every idk 8 years now? my current build is around that or longer with an nvidia 970 (google says released september 2014) and an i5-4690k. It has felt like general performance dropped off a lot slower with this build than my previous one though budget was about the same. I personally wouldn’t bother upgrading until an application or use case forces you to as that’s ultimately cheaper. Also most software seems to shoot for higher performance on lower spec systems eventually anyway. I’ve gained frames in apex legends over the last year and have changed nothing about my actual hardware.
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May 1, 2022 23:27
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CatelynIsAZombie posted:incredibly circumstantial evidence but i’ve had a new desktop pc every idk 8 years now? my current build is around that or longer with an nvidia 970 (google says released september 2014) and an i5-4690k. It has felt like general performance dropped off a lot slower with this build than my previous one though budget was about the same. Heh, I have literally the same build as you. And it is definitely showing its age, which is why I'm looking into upgrading.
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May 2, 2022 00:53
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There's also the stuff you don't even know you're missing out on. NVMe boot and load times are scary-fast.
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May 2, 2022 01:27
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32GB of DDR5-5200 CL40 with a 2TB Gen4 NVMe for $360: https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-T-...9&creative=9325 If this were just slightly faster memory for slightly more money, I'd almost say that building a DDR5 system could be worth it, but 5200 CL40 seems too slow even if it is this cheap when bundled with an SSD. Maybe it can be OCed?
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May 2, 2022 02:51
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Is a 650 watt power supply (Corsair RM650) good enough to run a 3080 with a 3700X CPU?
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May 2, 2022 03:07
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Mozi posted:Is a 650 watt power supply (Corsair RM650) good enough to run a 3080 with a 3700X CPU? Nvidia recommends 750W, but 650W should be doable with a 3700X if you're not overclocking.
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May 2, 2022 03:11
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Mozi posted:Is a 650 watt power supply (Corsair RM650) good enough to run a 3080 with a 3700X CPU?
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May 2, 2022 03:11
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Yeah it is overclocking a bit... if I get another Corsair can I keep my existing cabling? It would just be an upgrade for the GPU so don't want to tear it all apart.
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May 2, 2022 03:16
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Mozi posted:Yeah it is overclocking a bit... if I get another Corsair can I keep my existing cabling? https://www.corsair.com/us/en/psu-cable-compatibility When it comes to the RM, the 2019 models (and earlier?) used a different 24-pin cable from current models, but the other cables appear to be the same. Note that the RMx is different. If you aren't sure what year your current model is from, then replace the cable to be safe. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 03:23 on May 2, 2022 |
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May 2, 2022 03:20
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TYVM! The PSU was bought Dec 2019.
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May 2, 2022 03:30
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Peachfart posted:Heh, I have literally the same build as you. And it is definitely showing its age, which is why I'm looking into upgrading. Yeah I do not plan to see this build through next year but I can still do plenty of reasonable computer things in spite of that (including playing some 'modern' games). Another important consideration nowadays is that with so many smaller/indie productions going on for games specs and requirements for a lot of software are far from what absolute top performance systems are capable of. Like even a lot of newly released games have very achievable minimum requirements. Shumagorath posted:There's also the stuff you don't even know you're missing out on. NVMe boot and load times are scary-fast. True but if a component costs say $100 more over what you've currently installed and you're talking about a savings of seconds over time how many boots and loads would you have to do before that time could be spent making the money to make up the difference. I think its fair to admit when things are for the enjoyment of the hobby of having computer stuff vs the actual benefit of higher performance. Are you comparing NVMe to SATA SSDs here or NVMe to like spinning discs?
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May 2, 2022 04:49
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NVMe vs SATA SSDs. I notice a measurable difference in boot times and overall responsiveness to the point the usual Windows inertia in that minute after you've logged in is gone. Game load times are so fast I've been missing the "press space to continue" prompts. This is going from a Samsung 860 Evo to WD SN850. I think the 860 was the last gen of non-NVMe but it wouldn't have made a difference without also replacing my mainboard.
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May 2, 2022 04:56
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Given that I was really at the top of my budget with this build and had to make some choices about where to put my cash, I haven't found a lot of reason to go with Gen4 NVME over quality Gen3 NVME, personally, I've looked at a lot of reviews and while sequential performance is better for Gen4 for sure, randoms mostly aren't, and that has more to do in my experience with overall snappy behavior and "wow, look at that comp zoom" feel. Of course it's still probably nice to have stuff transfer at 5GB/s and faster when there's a bigger file, but I've been ecstatic with the performance of my Gen3s that I went with to achieve some cost savings but still get storage way faster than my old SATA SSDs which were all I'd used til this point, being stuck on a Haswell system for the longest. I still did put one SATA SSD in this one, a WD Blue that easily hits its advertised speeds, for things that are nice to have faster than HDDs but not blazing fast. I would have put another NVME drive in but man I am concerned about the slot behind my GPU shroud not accommodating heat sinks well plus getting deeply inadequate airflow and having to put up at times with GPU exhaust heat from this 290W card. The slots I do have populated get better airflow, with the one by my CPU cooler getting the best and keeping operational temps under 50C even for longer operations; the ones below my GPU have less ample airflow but the motherboard-included heat sink keeps them no higher than like 57ºC during extended writes which ought to be totally fine still. The higher temp on those might also be because the one up top by the CPU cooler is an Inland Professional 2TB, reputed to run cool but also capable of slower random reads and writes by about half compared to good Gen3 or Gen4 drives. I would avoid Inland drives unless you are very budget constrained - sure, they're great compared to SATA still, but they fall down severely versus nicer competitors. It definitely is worth it to go from SATA SSDs to NVMEs for a new build, though, I just don't know if you need to be eyeballing the pricier drives. Though the difference is a little less magnified at lower capacities so if you're just getting 512GB or 1TB maybe splurge a bit to have the top tech, it will come in handy sometimes I'm sure. I wanted a bunch of this kinda space relatively speaking so it came down to some decision making. After having a bad experience with "let's just try the cheap Gen3s" I went back to the drawing board and researched more and found the Hynix Gold P31 to have great attributes all around, including great performance even when the write cache is exceeded (Samsung 980 Pro and 970 Evo Plus models also did very well there), and given their good reputation for reliability I went with those to replace the mediocre Inland m.2 NVME drives that failed on me right off the jump. Agreed fucked around with this message at 07:16 on May 2, 2022 |
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May 2, 2022 05:38
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I've basically switched my approach from having SATA SSDs as boot drives and HDDs as storage to NVMe drives as boot drives and SATA SSDs as storage. I have one WD Blue NVMe drive for Windows, and another WD Blue NVMe drive for Linux.
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May 2, 2022 07:15
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Shumagorath posted:NVMe vs SATA SSDs. I notice a measurable difference in boot times and overall responsiveness to the point the usual Windows inertia in that minute after you've logged in is gone. Game load times are so fast I've been missing the "press space to continue" prompts. You sure that doesn't have more to do with it being a fresh install of Windows?
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May 2, 2022 07:58
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