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Croisquessein
Feb 25, 2005

invisible or nonexistent, and should be treated as such
Sorry if this is the wrong place, but I can't seem to Google the correct answer:

Is it illegal to replace the back badge on your car with a custom non-official badge (like one I made from scratch)?

I know it's fine to remove it, but I can't find anything on changing it.

I live in Arizona, btw.

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Croisquessein posted:

Sorry if this is the wrong place, but I can't seem to Google the correct answer:

Is it illegal to replace the back badge on your car with a custom non-official badge (like one I made from scratch)?

I know it's fine to remove it, but I can't find anything on changing it.

I live in Arizona, btw.

No way is that illegal unless you're violating laws about decency.

Croisquessein
Feb 25, 2005

invisible or nonexistent, and should be treated as such

VelociBacon posted:

No way is that illegal unless you're violating laws about decency.

Awesome, thanks!

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I think Ferrari gets a bug up their rear end about stuff like that, but I could be wrong.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
go wild op

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I keep seeing these videos on tiktok where some chinese mechanic hooks up a car's oil to this external machine which has a filter in it, I guess they're doing an oil flush or something?

What is the purpose of that?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I keep seeing these videos on tiktok where some chinese mechanic hooks up a car's oil to this external machine which has a filter in it, I guess they're doing an oil flush or something?

What is the purpose of that?

Post links.

This sounds like a trans flush machine which is not a filter, but a way to (kinda) completely exchange fluid more easily.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Motronic posted:

Post links.

This sounds like a trans flush machine which is not a filter, but a way to (kinda) completely exchange fluid more easily.

https://www.tiktok.com/@qiaojize/video/7094609057830538542?is_copy_url=1&is_from_webapp=v1

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

ryanrs posted:

I think Ferrari gets a bug up their rear end about stuff like that, but I could be wrong.

that’s why they sued DeadMau5, right?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


That was a fancy crank case oil flush machine. This is not necessary if you change your oil and filter when it needs to be changed.

It's easy to sell these services to a certain subset of people who don't know any better.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Motronic posted:

That was a fancy crank case oil flush machine. This is not necessary if you change your oil and filter when it needs to be changed.

It's easy to sell these services to a certain subset of people who don't know any better.

I was kind of curious of doing that with older cars with a lot of mileage, if it was even worth it

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

GreenBuckanneer posted:

I was kind of curious of doing that with older cars with a lot of mileage, if it was even worth it

If you want to resurrect some old poo poo and go all "let's see if this works" all in or I'll be ready to replace the motor if it doesn't a lot cheaper way to do it is (choose your combo/concentration) cheap engine oil, marvel mystery oil, ATF, diesel.

These will surely all "clean" things. That might mean breaking off formerly load bearing clumps that will either clog oil passage or make things start to leak (best case scenario).

This is a "welp let's see what happens, can't get any worse" procedure. Why would you do this to your otherwise well maintained car? Alternately why would you do this to your otherwise running for now shitbox?

I get what this plays on: Ohhhhh...CLEAN is good. But that level of "clean" simply does not matter in the context of engine oil in something in already average to good condition.

Motronic fucked around with this message at 04:03 on May 7, 2022

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Croisquessein posted:

Sorry if this is the wrong place, but I can't seem to Google the correct answer:

Is it illegal to replace the back badge on your car with a custom non-official badge (like one I made from scratch)?

Police might bother you about the make/model not matching the plate, that's about it AFAIK.

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
It went by kinda fast and I guess there's no rewind on tiktok, was all that dirt on the filtered or unfiltered side of the air filter? :psyduck:

Some people use an extractor for oil changes for convenience but I'm not sure it always works to get all the oil out. Some people say it always works for them while others still have oil in the pan. Last I heard at least.

pnac attack
Jul 7, 2021

by Fluffdaddy

Croisquessein posted:

Sorry if this is the wrong place, but I can't seem to Google the correct answer:

Is it illegal to replace the back badge on your car with a custom non-official badge (like one I made from scratch)?

I know it's fine to remove it, but I can't find anything on changing it.

I live in Arizona, btw.

post the badge

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Ok Comboomer posted:

that’s why they sued DeadMau5, right?

Probably? I don't even remember who it was, just that Ferrari was a jerk.

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.
Could have been the nyancat wrap

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

ryanrs posted:

Probably? I don't even remember who it was, just that Ferrari was a jerk.

totalnewbie posted:

Could have been the nyancat wrap

that's exactly what it was--apparently the thing they took the most issue with was changing the Ferrari badge out for a prancing cat "Purrari", which is a cringe-rear end joke but lmao at taking legal action against a customer over it

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
I'm pretty sure that Ferrari hates the prancing moose stuff.

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Kia Soul Enthusias posted:

It went by kinda fast and I guess there's no rewind on tiktok, was all that dirt on the filtered or unfiltered side of the air filter? :psyduck:

Some people use an extractor for oil changes for convenience but I'm not sure it always works to get all the oil out. Some people say it always works for them while others still have oil in the pan. Last I heard at least.

I use extractors on all the cars that will work with it but even when using that I'll pull the drain plug every few oil changes because while you'll get most of the oil with an extractor it's unlikely to get ALL of it. Half the time I use the extractor to get the majority of the oil so I can use a smaller drain pan and have less chance of making a mess.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

How come 200cc-class engines come with 0.9 to 0.95 gallon gas tanks

Is this a regulatory thing or a safety thing or what

Bloody
Mar 3, 2013

I recently repaired a rust hole in the bed of my truck, and it had me crawling around underneath it for the first time. While I was down there I saw a lot of rust on a lot of stuff, and I'm not sure which of it (if any) I should be worried about, and what (if anything) I should do about any of it. This is all on a 2008 Tundra, I'm the third owner, it spent its first 100k+ miles in Colorado.







Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

That's what average surface rust on a 20 year old truck underbody looks like

If you tap any of that with a hammer and anything larger than coarse-ground pepper flakes off, I'd look more closely at it, but that is what I'd expect iron to look like in a 20% oxygen environment that gets wet 3-10 times a month after 20 years

killaer
Aug 4, 2007
Had a question about potentially fixing up my car/buying a new/used car instead -

So I have a 2004 Suzuzki XL-7, seems like a pretty uncommon car, and mechanics are not used to it, but whatever, it's actually a pretty nice lovely old SUV that I like

Anyway, it hasn't been taken care of very well, it's very rusty at the bottom, suspension is hosed - but most importantly, BRAKES. The BRAKES feel very slow to engage now. I had a mechanic look at it, he said it might need a master cylinder, but he didn't feel like doing it. Anyway I switched to another mechanic.

This guy tells me after a diagnosis inspection that the brakes are hosed. Everything is rusted. He says he can't give me a good estimate right now - he'll need to replace the master cylinder & pads & calipers & all that poo poo, he also says that the brake bleeds are rusted, and potentially he might need to replace the brake lines.

I went into this being willing to spend up to 3k to fix this car, suspension + brakes, but he says it might cost 3-5k for the brakes alone, more for the suspension. I have an EVAP leak too, and the fuel lines are rusty, so, anyway, he's basically saying that the car costs more to fix than it's worth, and his advice is for me to start looking for a used car.

I honestly just wanted to put a few k of repairs and keep this thing going for another year or two - I mean poo poo, it still drives fine, but with the bad brakes and the worn out stabilizers that makes the car not grippy enough when going over pot-holes or bumps in a sharp turn, yea, I'm considering just getting rid of it and looking for a new one.


SO we start talking about cars, he says he might know a woman looking to get rid of a car right now, her husband died. Gives me my car back and tells me he'll call her in the meantime.

Then he calls me back, tells me to call her because this price is a steal. I don't know poo poo about cars or prices or whatever, but I figure my car is on the way out, I'll call this lady.


The car is a 2017 2-door Honda Accord Coupe, I don't know much more about it, it's got less than 30,000 miles on it. Her asking price is $16k.The mechanic told me he serviced her car, and it's in great condition, might just need brakes + tire work done.

Is this even a good deal? I dunno - car prices are INSANE right now, especially for used. Having a zippy coupe might be fun, but I've also been looking at Mazda CX-5.

In general, used car prices seem ridiculous - I know people talk a whole lot about a car "Depreciating 25% as soon as you drive it off the lot" - but buying a 2-5 year old car is currently only 4-6k less than a new car. Is that...seriously worth it? That's still 2-5 years of wear and tear. A new corolla MSRP's for like 21k. Is it worth it buying used in this market if you can just splurge on a new car for peace of mind?? Idk??

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Hadlock posted:

That's what average surface rust on a 20 year old truck underbody looks like

If you tap any of that with a hammer and anything larger than coarse-ground pepper flakes off, I'd look more closely at it, but that is what I'd expect iron to look like in a 20% oxygen environment that gets wet 3-10 times a month after 20 years

Agreed. This is average rust. Nothing stood out as concerning.

If this is a truck you want to keep around for another 20 years you could put a bunch of effort into POR 15/Chassis Sealer and undercoating. But I wouldn't even consider doing that without pulling the bed itself off or at a minimum having access to a lift to do the work on.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
So I’ve got a follow-up question now that I have my welder working. I’ve been practicing on a 7mm bit of new sheet metal for the last hour or so, and I was just blowing through right away or getting bad arcs etc. When I actually got a bead going it never sounded like I’ve heard MIG welders do in videos (i.e that crackling buzzing sound) but instead sounded more like gas flowing. It would burn through very quickly. I had the preset for MAG welding 0.6mm (metal thickness), 0,6mm wire, inductance in the middle (0), 20A, wire speed 1.5mm/sec (set automatically by the machine) and I don’t remember the voltage as I didn’t touch it.
I then decided to fiddle around with stuff and turned down voltage to 0 (or -0.1V) just to see what happens. Still 20A, but the voltage was at 13.4V now. For some reason I can now weld nice looking welds that don’t burn through. This was also when I actually got to see how the machine actually starts the weld (wire hits, strikes and arc that is then kept while the wire moves back into contact with the metal and the bead starts). The welder manual is in german, which I don’t know well enough to understand welding context. I take it the welder automatically set the voltage to the lowest possible.

So while I’m happy that it works I don’t really know why it suddenly does. Now after watching some videos I think it must have indeed been the voltage setting that made the difference and not some other setting. Going by the sound of things it initially sounded like spray arc welding does, while it now sounds like short circuit transfer.

Does this seem like I’m roughly on the right track?

MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 07:10 on May 9, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

It definitely seems like you're on the right track and you've figuring out one of the hardest parts of welding: getting the machine set up properly. Anything on the machine or that welding calculator suggests are merely a vague starting point. You have to tune from there.

I would suggest learning on thicker metal. It sounds like you're starting out trying to weld something that is already difficult. Remove that variable with some thicker mild steel and work your way from there.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Those old Tundras had some pretty major rust issues too. Like Toyota recalled a poo poo load of them bitches and was replacing frames or buying them back.
My work has had 3 of those generation Tundras and based on those pics, its in better shape than any of those three ever were.

Like Motronic said if you want to keep it for a while, get some sort of rust proofing done to it.

Apparently this poo poo is pretty good:https://corrosionfree.com/?_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlPWojNnQ9wIVhrbICh0OsgAaEAAYASAAEgLb9PD_BwE

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

killaer posted:

Had a question about potentially fixing up my car/buying a new/used car instead -

So I have a 2004 Suzuzki XL-7, seems like a pretty uncommon car, and mechanics are not used to it, but whatever, it's actually a pretty nice lovely old SUV that I like

Anyway, it hasn't been taken care of very well, it's very rusty at the bottom, suspension is hosed - but most importantly, BRAKES. The BRAKES feel very slow to engage now. I had a mechanic look at it, he said it might need a master cylinder, but he didn't feel like doing it. Anyway I switched to another mechanic.

This guy tells me after a diagnosis inspection that the brakes are hosed. Everything is rusted. He says he can't give me a good estimate right now - he'll need to replace the master cylinder & pads & calipers & all that poo poo, he also says that the brake bleeds are rusted, and potentially he might need to replace the brake lines.

I went into this being willing to spend up to 3k to fix this car, suspension + brakes, but he says it might cost 3-5k for the brakes alone, more for the suspension. I have an EVAP leak too, and the fuel lines are rusty, so, anyway, he's basically saying that the car costs more to fix than it's worth, and his advice is for me to start looking for a used car.

I honestly just wanted to put a few k of repairs and keep this thing going for another year or two - I mean poo poo, it still drives fine, but with the bad brakes and the worn out stabilizers that makes the car not grippy enough when going over pot-holes or bumps in a sharp turn, yea, I'm considering just getting rid of it and looking for a new one.


SO we start talking about cars, he says he might know a woman looking to get rid of a car right now, her husband died. Gives me my car back and tells me he'll call her in the meantime.

Then he calls me back, tells me to call her because this price is a steal. I don't know poo poo about cars or prices or whatever, but I figure my car is on the way out, I'll call this lady.


The car is a 2017 2-door Honda Accord Coupe, I don't know much more about it, it's got less than 30,000 miles on it. Her asking price is $16k.The mechanic told me he serviced her car, and it's in great condition, might just need brakes + tire work done.

Is this even a good deal? I dunno - car prices are INSANE right now, especially for used. Having a zippy coupe might be fun, but I've also been looking at Mazda CX-5.

In general, used car prices seem ridiculous - I know people talk a whole lot about a car "Depreciating 25% as soon as you drive it off the lot" - but buying a 2-5 year old car is currently only 4-6k less than a new car. Is that...seriously worth it? That's still 2-5 years of wear and tear. A new corolla MSRP's for like 21k. Is it worth it buying used in this market if you can just splurge on a new car for peace of mind?? Idk??

There is a car buying thread that would be more than happy to give you their take over here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538

My take is that your Suzuki might be a lost cause. I don't know that I'd trust just one person's opinion, but all of the statements do make that seem plausible. It might be worth getting a second opinion all the same.

The mechanic spurring you onto a purchase of an acquaintance's car is a little weird but not unheard of. If you're interested in the the Honda, I would check it out yourself to get a feel for the situation. If you are still interested I would get it checked out by some third party (another mechanic or maybe even a dealership for a pre-purchase inspection). I would encourage you to think about the vehicle you need too. A coupe might not be the right car for you. I have no way of knowing really.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 22:02 on May 8, 2022

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






Bloody posted:

I recently repaired a rust hole in the bed of my truck, and it had me crawling around underneath it for the first time. While I was down there I saw a lot of rust on a lot of stuff, and I'm not sure which of it (if any) I should be worried about, and what (if anything) I should do about any of it. This is all on a 2008 Tundra, I'm the third owner, it spent its first 100k+ miles in Colorado.









That looks great tbh. I'd be suspicious of those shocks maybe but they look dry.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Bloody posted:

I recently repaired a rust hole in the bed of my truck, and it had me crawling around underneath it for the first time. While I was down there I saw a lot of rust on a lot of stuff, and I'm not sure which of it (if any) I should be worried about, and what (if anything) I should do about any of it. This is all on a 2008 Tundra, I'm the third owner, it spent its first 100k+ miles in Colorado.




Looks fine. Replace those shocks soon, though, and spray a good load of penetrant on your spare tire retaining assembly. It's so much fun to struggle with a seized nut in the roadside rainy dark.

My sister's impulse-bought '02 4Runner looks like breakfast sausage by comparison. I beat hell out of it with a wire wheel & emptied four cans of rust convertor at it. I had to buy a new rim for the spare because it looked like a hamburger patty and the bead was FUBAR. Tire looked perfect, never used once; was the factory spare if the degree of dry rot was any indication.

PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:14 on May 9, 2022

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Motronic posted:

It definitely seems like you're on the right track and you've figuring out one of the hardest parts of welding: getting the machine set up properly. Anything on the machine or that welding calculator suggests are merely a vague starting point. You have to tune from there.

I would suggest learning on thicker metal. It sounds like you're starting out trying to weld something that is already difficult. Remove that variable with some thicker mild steel and work your way from there.

Thanks! That should have been 7mm (0.0275”), not .7mm, but yeah thin metal. I’m going to do more practicing, but after reading some more I understand what I did much better. Hopefully I can try some more welding on the car later today.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

7mm is .275 inches. (A quarter inch is 6.35mm). That's plenty thick for welding practice -- I mostly practiced on 1/8.

If you're doing 0.028" sheet metal, yeah, that's pretty drat thin.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Seems like 0.063/0.060 is about as thin as your average beginner amateur is going to be capable of welding. That's about 1.6mm. A standard headphone jack is 3.5mm for reference. 1/8 is a good thickness as mentioned above.

A humble brag for some welders is welding two beer can bottoms together. It's doable but you'll probably burn the poo poo out of the material

Generally the settings on the welder are correct. If you turned down the voltage you might have a pretty weld, but not be getting enough penetration, if you are doing something where strength matters a lot. If you're working outside and/or cold climate, pre-heating the work with a blow torch for a few seconds can help a lot especially once you get in to high mass work

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

MrOnBicycle posted:

Thanks! That should have been 7mm (0.0275”), not .7mm, but yeah thin metal. I’m going to do more practicing, but after reading some more I understand what I did much better. Hopefully I can try some more welding on the car later today.

Oh that makes a lot of difference.

I'd try turning down your feed speed with the voltage back up, or just higher voltage because as Hadlock says, you probably aren't getting any penetration with your current settings.

MrOnBicycle posted:

For some reason I can now weld nice looking welds that don’t burn through.

You want to be able to see the weld on the other side. You can try this just running beads on a piece of your sheet metal. Run a bead, flip it over. No sign of it on the back? More voltage. Do the same. Keep upping the voltage for each bead until you start blowing through the metal. Look and listen to the differences and you'll find a happy middle.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?

Hadlock posted:

Seems like 0.063/0.060 is about as thin as your average beginner amateur is going to be capable of welding. That's about 1.6mm. A standard headphone jack is 3.5mm for reference. 1/8 is a good thickness as mentioned above.

A humble brag for some welders is welding two beer can bottoms together. It's doable but you'll probably burn the poo poo out of the material

Generally the settings on the welder are correct. If you turned down the voltage you might have a pretty weld, but not be getting enough penetration, if you are doing something where strength matters a lot. If you're working outside and/or cold climate, pre-heating the work with a blow torch for a few seconds can help a lot especially once you get in to high mass work


Hadlock posted:

Seems like 0.063/0.060 is about as thin as your average beginner amateur is going to be capable of welding. That's about 1.6mm. A standard headphone jack is 3.5mm for reference. 1/8 is a good thickness as mentioned above.

A humble brag for some welders is welding two beer can bottoms together. It's doable but you'll probably burn the poo poo out of the material

Generally the settings on the welder are correct. If you turned down the voltage you might have a pretty weld, but not be getting enough penetration, if you are doing something where strength matters a lot. If you're working outside and/or cold climate, pre-heating the work with a blow torch for a few seconds can help a lot especially once you get in to high mass work

Thanks for the pointers guys. I spent about 2 hours experimenting with welds and like you said those settings were way too low (i.e no penetration on the back, and "convex" beads on top) to get actual usable welds. It did however help me as a starting point try my way up until I got "flat" beads where the backside had pretty much a same looking bead as the front. Maybe a bit wide sometimes. Also practiced some butt welds and got decent results after a while (much harder to do though). I finally decided to try welding the floor pan again, and it went ok-ish. I tried different settings and I think that the absolute main reason I burned through was impatience and not letting it cool down. I also need to practice being consistent with my technique.
This photo turned out worse that I thought, but the welds are on parts that I accidentally nicked with the angle grinder. After grinding them down after the weld, the spaces seemed filled and blended in with the surrounding metal.

A bit "tall and convex"?

Forgot to take a picture of the thinner sheet metal that goes on top, but I did a ton of ugly spot welds and then decided to just do 3-4cm long beads all along the seams to make sure they fused. I'll have to check under the car when it's time to get it on jack stands. The welds were a bit tall though, so the penetration might have been on the poorer side. I think I'll try getting some heat sinks and maybe use compressed air to cool it down quicker.I'll also, like you say, try playing around with voltage and amp/feed speed more.
All in all, pretty fun stuff. Looking forward to improving so that I can actually get somewhere with this drat car.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah you probably burnt the poo poo out of it. If you have a fan to get more air flow on the work that might help, spend more time drinking beer, less time welding

I like this video, he does a pretty good job but doesn't really get going until halfway though (24:32)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S6spZdzqFxg

Croisquessein
Feb 25, 2005

invisible or nonexistent, and should be treated as such

ryanrs posted:

I think Ferrari gets a bug up their rear end about stuff like that, but I could be wrong.

It's a Mazda 2.

pnac attack posted:

post the badge

I haven't got it made yet, but I was planning on a demon sigil.

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.
Wait are you actually curious about badge swapping your car? It's your car - you can badge swap it all the day is long, or paint it harlequin, or cover it in fake rust, or stick a bunch of fake Ferrari body panels on it. As long as you don't try to register it as something it's not, you're not breaking a single law. If you're seriously worried about something legal, don't be - there is a ton of precedent covering your literal freedom of expression (assuming you're in the States). Deadmau5 only had an issue because his wrap violated an EUA he had signed with Ferrari.

Also, as the owner of Mazda2, let me give you my official permission to go hog wild. Call it a Sterling Dump Truck.

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22 Eargesplitten
Oct 10, 2010



Anyone have advice for how to get a stuck water pump loose? The gaskets seem swollen. I applied a bit of heat with a torch and smacked the pulley with a deadblow hammer but no luck yet. I've got a new pump I'm going to install while the belt is off because the current one is likely 27 years old. I suppose I could take an air hammer to the pulley since I"m not re-using it, but I don't want to try a crowbar or anything between the pump and the block because I don't want to mar the mating surface.

It's on a Subaru SVX if it makes a difference, but the pump is the same as any other Subaru.

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