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IMO pop it in a breadboard, hook up a multimeter, and see what happens.
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May 9, 2022 00:51
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A potentiometer is just a resistor you can use less of, it doesn't multiply anything. The resistances will just add together.
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May 9, 2022 13:13
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Siivola posted:A potentiometer is just a resistor you can use less of, it doesn't multiply anything. The resistances will just add together. obnoxious (for me, who has like 100 10k pots and barely anything bigger) that you can divide them w/ resistors in parallel but not the opposite way
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May 9, 2022 22:31
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JamesKPolk posted:obnoxious (for me, who has like 100 10k pots and barely anything bigger) that you can divide them w/ resistors in parallel but not the opposite way The rude little fucks
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May 10, 2022 01:58
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For some reason all I can think about this month is hacking together circuits on protoboard and then (euro)racking them. What do y'all like for front panel material? The things I have considered (and why I'm not happy w/ them) are: - get a bunch of PCB material blanks made (easy to modify once I have them but lead time and kinda ugly for something I gotta get fabbed) - wood (ugly, not a great woodworker so would probably just be cutting and drilling panels, kinda thick for whats needed strength-wise) - aluminum blanks (pita to drill, have to order) - front panel designer/ MPC (order, probably need a lot to make it worth the $/time, what if I wanna change something? so probably not at this stage) - Acryllic / MDF (no idea where to begin... get it fabbed @ a local cutting shop? is this drillable @ home or am I gonna hate life) No bench tools but I have metal drill bits and a clamp and saws for wood/plastic/pipes
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May 12, 2022 21:49
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JamesKPolk posted:For some reason all I can think about this month is hacking together circuits on protoboard and then (euro)racking them. I used to make computer cases from acrylic and I'd recommend against it. You know there's guys on ebay that will cut you an aluminum form if you send the specs and they're pretty cheap, right?
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May 12, 2022 21:58
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petit choux posted:I used to make computer cases from acrylic and I'd recommend against it. You know there's guys on ebay that will cut you an aluminum form if you send the specs and they're pretty cheap, right? No I did not, but actually that might be fantastic. What's the account called? Still probably need to have the design figured out but it might be a nice middle spot. And like perfectly good for housing stuff I'm ripping off from other people
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May 12, 2022 22:11
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Wood has to be pretty thick to hold up in my experience, especially if you put a lot of closely-spaced holes in it. It's cheap, easy to work with and easy finish but will always have quite some flex. FR-4 from the Chinese fabs is cheap, strong, and comes with built-in labels/aesthetics in the silkscreen & solder mask. You can even get aluminium PCBs, though don't expect perfect finish or precision milling to be the top priority here. But hey, it's cheap and doesn't look that bad, plus you always get several. Sheet aluminium is pretty much the professional standard, but difficult to get a good finish/labelling on yourself and kind of expensive to get it done. I personally order a PCB for my module, and then another as a panel.
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May 12, 2022 22:25
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One thing DIY pedal guys used to do and maybe still do but I haven't paid attention to the scene in a number of years was to use paper meant for printing out artwork for iron on t shirt transfers. Printing out your artwork and ironing it onto the top of the aluminum box. Then you'd either leave the sides bare aluminum or paint them for an aluminum panel face plate this would be a non issue. The paper itself comes either with a clear backing or a white backing for doing full color prints.
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May 12, 2022 23:58
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I buy paper that lets you print whatever you want on it and it turns it into a sticker then I slap that bad boy on bare aluminum
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May 13, 2022 00:09
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JamesKPolk posted:No I did not, but actually that might be fantastic. What's the account called? I'm afraid I haven't talked to them in years now. There are folks out there advertising this and similar services on ebay. Twice over the past 15 years or so I've done some text searches on ebay to somebody who advertised cutting aluminum and contacted them and negotiated a price, and it's always been pretty low for a one-off. They needed a good drawing, and that was it. But I do also like that idea of using PCB material, preferably the heaviest.
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May 13, 2022 00:18
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If you have enough panels to cut and can do some basic CAD you could use a service like https://sendcutsend.com/
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May 13, 2022 13:18
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Would inherent handling noise make a portable binaural stereo microphone impractical? I know how to build one easy (just need human ears...), but I want to sound tests of simulating what it would be like to be picked up and moved around while being spoken to from a fixed position. Basically, simulating a sense of movement by actually moving the recorder and not the source. This absolutely not R&D for Giantess fetish JOI. Seriously, I would typically use an actual Styrofoam head or equivalent sized ball, but that has a lot of inherent handling noise.
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May 14, 2022 04:47
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Marsupial Ape posted:Would inherent handling noise make a portable binaural stereo microphone impractical? I know how to build one easy (just need human ears...), but I want to sound tests of simulating what it would be like to be picked up and moved around while being spoken to from a fixed position. Basically, simulating a sense of movement by actually moving the recorder and not the source. This absolutely not R&D for Giantess fetish JOI. I’m always curious how recordings from these things sound: https://en-us.sennheiser.com/in-ear-headphones-3d-audio-ambeo-smart-headset
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May 14, 2022 05:19
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You could hot glue two little electret mics on either ear cup of an old set of head phones and wire them into a little pocket stereo recorder. Not the same quality, but the same effect. Walk around and talk your yourself.
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May 14, 2022 05:28
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Marsupial Ape posted:Would inherent handling noise make a portable binaural stereo microphone impractical? I know how to build one easy (just need human ears...), but I want to sound tests of simulating what it would be like to be picked up and moved around while being spoken to from a fixed position. Basically, simulating a sense of movement by actually moving the recorder and not the source. This absolutely not R&D for Giantess fetish JOI. People make them. Typically they're like earbuds but they have a mic on the outside as well as on the inside.
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May 14, 2022 06:43
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JamesKPolk posted:For some reason all I can think about this month is hacking together circuits on protoboard and then (euro)racking them. For eurorack stuff, I’d recommend against wood or acrylic. At the thickness you need for it to be stable, a lot of jacks don’t have long enough threads to make it all the way through. And countersinking the back is way harder than it sounds.
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May 14, 2022 17:24
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good jovi posted:For eurorack stuff, I’d recommend against wood or acrylic. At the thickness you need for it to be stable, a lot of jacks don’t have long enough threads to make it all the way through. And countersinking the back is way harder than it sounds. I'm doing 1/8" acrylic on a laser cutter and it works ok. They are definitely thicker than ideal, but the jacks I'm using haven't given me a problem (though I can't remember exactly where I got them). I imagine you could go somewhat thinner though, if you have enough controls screwed down to the panel and then (afterwards) soldered to a PCB, as the PCB will help stiffen the panel. I'm using 2-layer acrylic so panel graphics just requires engraving so there's no additional processing after it comes out of the laser. That limits color selection, and if you aren't using 2-layer then you have to fill engraving with ink/paint, which I did not like. This of course requires access to a laser cutter which you might be able to find at a makerspace or something like that.
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May 14, 2022 18:58
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Base Emitter posted:I'm doing 1/8" acrylic on a laser cutter and it works ok. They are definitely thicker than ideal, but the jacks I'm using haven't given me a problem (though I can't remember exactly where I got them). Yeah, laser would be the only way to go, having tried to use tools more or less from the woodshop. That stuff is difficult to cut properly.
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May 14, 2022 19:12
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I found a Casiotone MT-68 at the thrift shop for $15, which I feel like is quite a score. Took it home, works fine, except some of the keys didn't work. When I opened it up to investigate/clean, I found the metal capacitive thingies (not sure the name, but essentially what is responding to the key press) for those non functioning keys were corroded off. Is there a good way to go about fixing those, or any details I should know going into it? I was thinking capacitive paint, a buddy said a little solder would probably be enough.
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May 19, 2022 05:49
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What wore out are the carbon pads. The solder solution will not work because there is nothing to solder to. They are a pain to repair. Things like conductive paint, liquid solder, silver paint just don't stick very well to the rubber membrane and even if they initially stick, they all quickly flake off with use. There is a carbon membrane repair product you can buy online for like $20, but I've never used it myself. If you look up the model, you might be able to buy new membranes as well. I bought new ones for my 1982 Roland. I've had luck in the past with glueing aluminum foil to replace the worn carbon, but no glue has lasted more than a moderate amount of use. Lastly, you can steal carbon pads from another membrane like a tv remote. Just cut it off and replace. Contact cement will glue rubber to rubber well.
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May 19, 2022 07:11
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You can try contacting syntaur and see if they have any spare parts for it laying around. https://syntaur.com/
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May 19, 2022 16:56
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Zeppelin Design Labs just told me they just got the new motherboards and if all goes well will be shipping the new Altura kits by Monday. I've already preordered. I built this kit up and am very impressed with the result. It is a MIDI controller that uses ultrasonic sensors to measure the distance between your hands (or whatever) and the sensor and makes MIDI notes based on your motions. I use mine to control a NTS-1, and usually that goes through a couple of effects or so. It also has a really nice arpeggiator built into it, speed of which is generally controlled by a tap tempo and by the motions of one hand. My wife has told me I'm making her think she's having auditory hallucinations from walking past my room, if that's any indicator of anything. https://zeppelindesignlabs.com/product/altura-mkii-theremin-midi-controller/
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May 19, 2022 17:23
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Been getting so much work done on the DIY backlog I left myself when I started working in the weed industry full time. I have - modded my Alesis Wedge to use a normal barrel connector instead of the 4 pin that always came loose - did a LPB board and an Acapulco Gold board for practice and started stuffing my HM-2s - (the rest is Eurorack) - built the boards for my Serge/CGS Quad Slope - 2x Old Crow Modular small stone clones for Eurorack - 2x USG clone (for a total of 6 serge slopes!!! so much continuous voltage!!!) - Circuit Abby clock divider clone - swapped a bunch of knobs to Purple / White / Black Davies 1900H + 1510s (which makes my system look like a system!) - finished troubleshooting (i.e. declared dead) 5x mutable instruments small format clones and got re-acquainted with what a nightmare the first Microbraids release was (and how tantalizing programming microcontrollers is - I'm getting a blue/black pill next month I think) - started reclaiming switches etc from above ^^ -sorted through my parts and found out I accidentally ordered extra TH LM13700s several times, but did not have the THAT or OPA hoard I thought I did. I just grabbed some boards for a Toppobrillo wavefolder and a Buchla 292 clone and I'm extremely hype about that. Vactrols are magic. But they're weirdly hard to get right now. And a lot of stuff has been discontinued and/or disappeared over the past 4 years - it's weird. I was hating on the microcontroller - in - everything movement in Eurorack recently but it makes sense when 072s, 074s, and ST32s are like the only chips you can get. Or 3340s apparently lmao. I still have a sample I need to test and report back. If you couldn't tell, it's been a very weird blend of bittersweet nostalgia. I'm trying to move away from ordering a BOM every time to just having standard parts on hand, any tips for general kit stocking? I have been buying resistor/transistor/diode kits as I get a better idea of whats standard, vs standard for synths but weird, vs just weird. But like, 2 1% resistor kits (so I can't just find a low-tolerance one to cover gaps) I got just didn't have 8.2k or 82k (820 and 820000 were there) and I never see anything 91_____. I thought you got the full series in a kit though? Is this me getting the mids pack or is there a different level of precision I should be looking for to actually have everything? Had a similar experience w/ zener diodes. But also I'm building a lot of Serge and Buchla circuits and those frickers were famous for using dumb poo poo so maybe it's just the projects. Also, what's going on in transistor subbing? Can I just match the PNP/NPN + EBC order or are there performance things I need to be paying attention to?
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May 20, 2022 02:38
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:jelly: Currently getting ready to redo a project I've well and truly botched, I managed to put a soldering iron through a PCB. Maybe this would be a decent place to ask. Does anybody here know if that packaging that lots of ramen noodles come in nowadays has any shielding potential? That stuff that looks like a reflective foil on the inside? It's a composite and there appears to be an incredibly thin film of reflective substance I assume is metallic. But that stuff is nonrecyclable, I believe, and it would be good if I could use it for shielding or something.
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May 20, 2022 23:22
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Continuing with the alternative expression pedal idea, here's a couple little ones. These are expression pedals that use a roller rather than a pedal. I've made a few things like this now, and considering making an actually durable one. But they work and keeping in mind I was thinking of this as something a tabletop musician might build for cheap and use, rather than on stage professionally:   Turns out the main part of an expression pedal is usually a 10k pot. If you can figure out an easy way of getting a potentiometer on its side so you can work it with your foot, you've got yourself a pedal! Probably the next step in this is to start using heavier wood, replacing that jar with something more sturdy, putting in stops so that you don't wreck the pot when you turn it too far. Right now, since I've put the thing together with velcro at a key place, that will give before the pot breaks. When you DIY everything with recycled materials you learn to allow for stuff like that. petit choux fucked around with this message at 18:24 on May 24, 2022 |
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May 24, 2022 18:20
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I’m looking for some guidance on a wiring schema. I have a dual effect pedal that stacks one effect into the other when both foot switches are engaged. What I’d like to do is set it up so one footswitch does On/Off bypass and the other footswitch toggles the effect circuit. here is the guts shot  Can I achieve this wiring with 3PDT switches alone?
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May 24, 2022 21:48
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lazerwolf posted:I’m looking for some guidance on a wiring schema. I have a dual effect pedal that stacks one effect into the other when both foot switches are engaged. Yep, I'm at work so can't draw a diagram but hopefully this makes sense: Switch A is wired so that the bypass state is as normal (ie input goes to output without hitting the circuit). The engaged state goes to switch B. Switch B has the bypass state go via one circuit and the engaged state go through the other.
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May 24, 2022 21:56
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lazerwolf posted:I’m looking for some guidance on a wiring schema. I have a dual effect pedal that stacks one effect into the other when both foot switches are engaged. Can we see the front of the pedal? Here's my breakout box, rev .2. A lot of the thinking here when I started doing this stuff was to make it from materials you could get pretty easily and cheaply, and to use a lot of scrap/recycle materials. The problem with that is a lot of that stuff isn't very durable. So I think I'm going to make one or two that actually use slightly higher quality materials, go for a slightly more durable one next. I've also thought of a couple of ways of doing this better, so I want to try one more time. I've spent a lot of time just staring at this thing and trying to come up with the most elegant solutions possible, this will work but it's not quite there.   Now I'm just waiting for the controller kit to arrive. I think following the assembly instructions will be easier than making this stuff from scratch, but not as fun.
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May 26, 2022 04:16
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Kingo Ligma posted:Yep, I'm at work so can't draw a diagram but hopefully this makes sense: Thanks! This does make sense I just have to figure out how the diagram should go. I’m new to this. http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_2in1a_lo.pdf this is the wiring diagram I used to set the pedal up in its current state. petit choux posted:Can we see the front of the pedal? Sure! It’s unfinished right now 
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May 26, 2022 18:31
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I built a dead simple 2 tier stand for synths from scrap materials.  3M Dual Lock ”velcro” is grippy as hell! I need a screwdriver to pry off the devices. I'll have to try if I have the guts to carry it sideways like that. I don't think I have to worry about them dropping but I don't want to bang them against door frames and such since there's no lid or any other protection there. Maybe it's something to consider for a mk2 but for now I'm pretty happy with it.
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May 27, 2022 17:50
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j.peeba posted:I built a dead simple 2 tier stand for synths from scrap materials. Nice, what is that little instrument on the bottom shelf? BTW, my experience with that velcro is the adhesive on the back totally gives out at a certain temp, I velcroed a CD player to the dash of my old car and it fell right off as soon as I left it someplace hot. If that's any consideration. I sometimes staple the velcro down even though that adhesive seems so strong. petit choux fucked around with this message at 18:30 on May 27, 2022 |
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May 27, 2022 18:28
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petit choux posted:Nice, what is that little instrument on the bottom shelf? That’s Organelle M. It runs various programs like samplers, synths, effects (there’s audio in) or you can program your own (it’s puredata) or modify existing ones (they’re largely open source). That’s a good tip about the temperatures. Very hot temperatures are a rare treat in Finland but it’s probably a good idea to avoid letting it bake in a hot car nonetheless.
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May 27, 2022 20:45
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So I grabbed a bench supply, like an adult. The problem is, everything I'm doing needs +/- 12, and while the cheapish one I grabbed can do both no problem, it doesn't like them at the same time. This is apparently standard, even on the ones w/ outs for both. Who knew! Anyone solve this before? What did you do? I'm thinking about just buying a second, or maybe getting a meanwell something or other to use for the less critical half.
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May 29, 2022 00:44
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JamesKPolk posted:So I grabbed a bench supply, like an adult. The problem is, everything I'm doing needs +/- 12, and while the cheapish one I grabbed can do both no problem, it doesn't like them at the same time. This is apparently standard, even on the ones w/ outs for both. Who knew! If you have an extra power supply from an old PC case, that can be safely (after the required work) be turned into a table top power supply. https://www.instructables.com/howto/benchtop+power+supply/
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May 31, 2022 23:12
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I'm a bit eccentric so I bought this on an impulse. Thinking it might be fun to replace the current amp with a Lepai and making it stereo, maybe replacing the speakers, and something like putting some tiny synths on that plastic tray would be kinda fun. But then my ideal of a good place to perform is probably a tearoom in a tree house. This thing is probably 40 years old.    And behold, an LCD with six legs on one side and five on the other 
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Jun 3, 2022 14:12
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I recently finished up a PedalPCB Backfeeder (Boss Super Feedbacker & Distortion clone) but when I plug it in it only makes a constant tone. The volume works on it. I'm thinking that I possibly wired the momentary switch wrong or something (left one in the picture). I just don't know where to start troubleshooting this. Has anyone build one of these and have any ideas?
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Jun 6, 2022 19:10
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In my experience socketted transistors can get weird, make sure thats not the cause.
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Jun 6, 2022 19:20
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Just solder them in instead then? I also tried it again and when I turn on the distortion I just get some static noise with the feedback not working at all. Bypass is ok.
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Jun 6, 2022 19:29
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Spinal Pap posted:Just solder them in instead then? I usually use socketing for testing out different transistors. If you know they work and are the right ones, I'd def reccomend removing the sockets and just soldering them in. That might not be the cause of your problem but it's not a bad idea to do regardless. As always, check your grounds. A good 50% of pedal problems for me are a missing ground.
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Jun 6, 2022 19:30
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