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I think that accord coupe goon should maybe consider a used 7 series wagon. If there were ever 7 series wagons. If not that, then a 5 series wagon would probably work just as well and be even cheaper.
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May 9, 2022 21:34
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wesleywillis posted:I think that accord coupe goon should maybe consider a used 7 series wagon. If there were ever 7 series wagons. Strong agree Looks like you could pick up a 2011 7 series with 75,000 miles on it for $20k They are great road trip cars, I've done a bunch of 600 mile weekends in mine up and down I-95 recently
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May 9, 2022 21:49
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Hadlock posted:Strong agree 20k is a lotta money mang…look chef I don’t know much about cars but drat, 20 thousand hard earned buckaroons for car with 75k miles on it??? I guess that’s not so bad if it’s a big rear end truck, but I just feel dirty spending more than 20k on a car with lots of questions about how many more years it will last. Like I’d hope to at least get 10 years out of it before I have to buy again
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May 9, 2022 23:04
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Note for thread: Apparently working at some tech companies can get you discounts on cars, check if your company has employee discounts. My company gets discounts from some car companies that use our products. America Inc. fucked around with this message at 23:36 on May 9, 2022 |
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May 9, 2022 23:31
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They're usually not that great (for instance you can traditionally beat Ford X plan by such clever negotiating tactics as "being alive and showing up to a Ford store"), but in current state of insane dealer market adjustments they have value in that the dealer isn't allowed to market adjust you above that price.
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May 10, 2022 08:04
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So I just went over and test drove that 2-Door Honda Accord Coupe. Seemed like a fun enough car to drive. Drives like a non lovely version of my gf’s 20 year old Corolla. It’s got that sedan feel. The infotainment and stereo system all check out. It’s an old lady selling the car so she got this dude to come and sit with me while I drove it which was a little weird cos I couldn’t really think, he kept talking about stuff. I was leaning towards buying - I did notice that the car had a few scratches and scrapes around it. Nothing big, I think all cars have em. Some chipped paint at the edge of the door. And the tires, those I noticed, the rims had what looked like small dents/chipped metal scratches, like an inch, inch wide. Tire looked like it had like a cut through it near the rim side. Not like a cut, but there was like a flap that you could pull on. They told me it was just curb scrapes. Anyway, I ran the carfax, and I see that it has 2 reported accidents. Both are minor. The first one is in the front, and the second one is in the front-left and the side-right, the side with the wheel issues. These are pretty good signals that there’s something wrong, right? Or I guess, it could be cosmetic, but I don’t really know what “Minor” means when it comes to carfax.
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May 12, 2022 00:34
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killaer posted:So I just went over and test drove that 2-Door Honda Accord Coupe. If you're still considering it, bring it to a mechanic thats NOT the one who told you about the car being for sale. Tell the mechanic your concerns, show them the carfax if you have a paper copy of it and get them to check out those areas (amongst the rest of the car) if you have concerns about like shoddy repairs or something. If a car is in an accident but gets fixed *properly* its really not that big of a deal. There is some stigma behind cars that have had damage to them, but again, if its fixed *properly, it should be fine.
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May 12, 2022 01:06
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The tire slice sounds like typical bad-driver tire/rim—>curb contact bullshit - if there’s an issue with alignment due to improper accident repair, it will usually present itself as cupped and/or strangely worn tire on that side. I’m biased as gently caress because I have a 2017 Accord Coupe that I drove 250 miles to buy new, it’s the hot rod* V6/stick transmission version and was hard to find. I love that car, it’s more refined-feeling than the Civic, a bit more spacious for the driver - I’m tall, broad-shouldered and fat - and has been 100% reliable since I bought it. It’s mechanically the same as the ubiquitous Accord sedan, so parts/repair is super simple, but is rare enough you won’t see yourself three times in every parking lot. Someone earlier in the thread was moaning about HOW USELESSLY GIANT IT IS(as if it’s a reincarnation of a 1976 Eldorado), but an Accord coupe isn’t tremendously larger or heavier than a later model Civic, and if you don’t often need the rear seat, go for it(after an independent inspection, of course). *I jest, mostly
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May 12, 2022 01:44
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wesleywillis posted:If you're still considering it, bring it to a mechanic thats NOT the one who told you about the car being for sale. I guess my concern is resale value - it’s probably not a car that I’ll want to hold on to forever. The idea of buying a clean used car with low miles that was driven well was very attractive. Worst case, if I didn’t love it, it would maintain its value so well that I could sell it at around the same price I bought it. Without having a clean carfax, I feel like it just increases that leg work of selling. I don’t know how many people really pull a carfax when buying from a private party, but still. Plus it’s just inviting people to offer low ball offers. I guess that’s getting ahead of myself. I really don’t know much about cars to begin with, so I can’t say for sure what a minor accident does to a car. I was rear ended once and sent the claim to insurance blah blah I’m sure it shows up but I doubt it did anything to the drive-ability of the car. For this case I just don’t like that the collisions were to the front of the car (sorry if that sounds dumb), and that I can see visible damage on the tires. Seems that the car just wasn’t driven well, which makes me question it’s history. It could still be a good deal. 16k for a 5 year old low miles car is great. Only bad thing is the seats suck. But anyway, the whole preinspection thing is weird. I asked about it and she seemed reserved - the car’s registration is expired (insurance is ok), so she doesn’t feel comfortable with it being driven around too much. She kinda seemed defensive when I asked to take it to an independent inspection. I kinda understand, she’s just being cautious, she had a family friend sit in with me when I test drove it. But she also says if I don’t buy it she already has another buyer and she already got an offer for 16k from Carmax. So seems like an uphill struggle to plan this out. I would take it to my new mechanic, but he’s the one who referred me to this lady, so I don’t know if he’s impartial! I’ll call him tomorrow anyway and get a service history Yeah, I dunno. If I could find a new sedan or wait 4 months for one, whatever it takes, and get some economy model with a full warranty for 24-26k, shoot maybe that’s worth it, I dunno…
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May 12, 2022 01:48
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JnnyThndrs posted:The tire slice sounds like typical bad-driver tire/rim—>curb contact bullshit - if there’s an issue with alignment due to improper accident repair, it will usually present itself as cupped and/or strangely worn tire on that side. But the seats suck. I’ve been trying out my dads Jeep Cherokee (new one) and it’s like a loving luxury yacht with those seats. Same with the CX-5, I tried a used one,base models. The seats are just so inviting to your body, it really is like sitting in the command center, loving plush man. I’m a bit fat and I felt the sides of the seat on that accord digging into my rear end. I’m a way it was a snug fit and nice because I didn’t slouch but still I dunno, kinda felt shite
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May 12, 2022 01:50
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I felt that same way about the seat when I first bought it, but the driver’s seat either spread a bit or I just got used to it, it doesn’t bother me at all now. But if you -really- dislike the seats, don’t buy the car, an otherwise-good vehicle with irritating seats will perpetually bug you. Ask me about putting 355K miles on an XJ Cherokee with quite possibly the shittiest seats of any vehicle in the last 40 years. I even had them redone and re-foamed at about 220K miles, they still sucked horribly.
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May 12, 2022 02:11
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Maybe I’m overthinking it and a couple of rear end pads will do the trick
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May 12, 2022 02:24
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killaer posted:I guess my concern is resale value - it’s probably not a car that I’ll want to hold on to forever. The idea of buying a clean used car with low miles that was driven well was very attractive. Worst case, if I didn’t love it, it would maintain its value so well that I could sell it at around the same price I bought it. There's exceptions but as a not a car guy you shouldn't be thinking about them. Also the by the books method to get a pre purchase inspection on a car with expired tags is a tow truck. The family friend can ride along, for fun. You are extremely taking the resale value in your own hands not getting a PPI if that helps contextualize the importance in the face of everybody knowing what they got and having a buyer right behind you.
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May 12, 2022 03:14
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killaer posted:Maybe I’m overthinking it and a couple of rear end pads will do the trick Sounds like you don't actually like the car but still want it based on the fantasy version of it in your head. It also sounds like the CX-5 is closer to what you actually like, but you haven't come to terms with that reality yet.
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May 12, 2022 03:19
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The CX-5 is super cozy. I love mine.
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May 12, 2022 05:41
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JnnyThndrs posted:The tire slice sounds like typical bad-driver tire/rim—>curb contact bullshit - if there’s an issue with alignment due to improper accident repair, it will usually present itself as cupped and/or strangely worn tire on that side. it's 9" longer than a CX-5 which is just hilarious. I know why it is so but it's much bigger for negative incremental utility.
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May 12, 2022 12:42
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Shine posted:The CX-5 is super cozy. I love mine. Yeah they did a good job on it.
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May 12, 2022 14:02
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Have any of you successfully talked a private seller down to a fair price from a ridiculous one? There's a car close to home that's going for $7k while equivalent (or better maintained) models are regularly selling for less than half that, and I took a close enough look to tell it's not some immaculate restoration. Is it even worth approaching the seller about it, or am I just going to get cussed out? If you were going to risk it, is there any evidence you'd bring to support your offer?
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May 12, 2022 19:57
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If you love everytrhing about a car except its seats, you can pay some money for a wide range of aftermarket seats. Some of them can even tie into a harness for e.g. heated seats, etc. It's just a matter of some cash. If you're ambivalent about a car and don't think spending an extra $500 or so to have a better seat would be worth it, then of course don't buy it.
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May 12, 2022 20:07
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Baronash posted:Have any of you successfully talked a private seller down to a fair price from a ridiculous one? There's a car close to home that's going for $7k while equivalent (or better maintained) models are regularly selling for less than half that, and I took a close enough look to tell it's not some immaculate restoration. Is it even worth approaching the seller about it, or am I just going to get cussed out? "I can be there tomorrow to look at it and if it looks good, I'm willing to give you $3k in cash and a case of your favorite beer on the spot" If they say gently caress off, you wasted approximately 10 seconds on this and it's NBD. Don't fall in the trap of thinking you need to be emotionally invested in the outcome - 
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May 12, 2022 20:08
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There's three common scenarios (plus lots of uncommon ones): 1. Owner does not actually want to sell, but their spouse says they have to. They're listing at a price they know it won't sell/they'd actually be grudgingly willing to sell at despite not really wanting to, maybe. 2. Owner has an inflated bullshit idea of what their special unique baby is worth and will not budge. 3. Owner is sensible, has listed high because they know used car prices are high, and would be willing to negotiate with someone who isn't just dicking them around. In my limited experience, #3 is rare, but not entirely unheard-of. #1 may not respond at all, and #2 will take any communication that isn't "I'm eager to buy at your list price" as an insult. Of course, overruling all three of those are the prevalance of scammers and morons and assholes, that's just a commonality for all private car purchases. There's a risk with every attempt to buy a car that you show up and the owner has just sold it to someone else despite reaching an agreement with you, or, ghosts you totally, or, has already sold it and never bothered to take down the ad. Dealing with that crap is the price you pay to buy private party instead of an inflated price at a dealership.
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May 12, 2022 20:26
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Use a burner email and google voice number is an easy piece of private transaction advice. Have a thick skin is a harder piece of transaction advice. I kicked out a moderate lowball to a guy on a car once, and he told me to gently caress off... and then when the car didn't sell for a month he eventually came back to me asking if I was still interested at my price. I had decided to do something else.
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May 12, 2022 21:55
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Leperflesh posted:There's three common scenarios (plus lots of uncommon ones): This is the one. Both cars and guns. Probably other poo poo too.
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May 13, 2022 01:41
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And boats 1) went to look at a boat, direct upgrade from our current one. Went to look at it with the intention to put in an offer on Monday. Get there and it's obvious the guy is living on it on weekends as a cabin away from the wife. Cancelled any bid on that boat immediately 2) my boat is up for sale, due to moving, do not want to sell right now the boat market is a lot like the house market. Also the boat is in amazing shape and has just been detailed and serviced. Currently counting down the days until our contact expires (Aug 1) with the broker so we can ship it to our new location
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May 13, 2022 02:28
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KillHour posted:I think they mean treat it like a camper for long road trips, not literally be forced to live out of a car because they are experiencing homelessness. Nobody forced into homelessness can afford to drive a car across the country with their guitar collection and no particular destination with gas prices the way they are. I've used my shitbox Fit for this type of "camping", for a small-ish car it's big enough to sleep comfortably in the back since the seats fold completely flat and you can still keep the other 2/3rds of the trunk used for your crap. Plus it's pretty efficient for long trips and doesn't stand out from the normal traffic.
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May 13, 2022 02:30
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Proposed Budget: $18-24k New or Used: Used Body Style: Sedan, Crossover or Large Coupe How will you be using the car?: Typical errands. Grocery Store, friends place, occasional road trip. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: CarPlay is too useful not to have. What aspects are most important to you? (e.g. reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, import/domestic, MPG, size, style) : Reliable, affordable but not cheap. My earlier thought was a Lexus NX but these are a bit hard to find. On the same discussion, it looks like a CX-5 or Mazda 6 would also suit my tastes but does anyone know if there's a difference between the regular sport seats and bucket seats for the Mazda 6? It seems like some models have different variations but I can't find anything on it. Is there anything else I might be missing? I did not care for the latest Camry. The Maxima was nice but almost too much? An Accord is an option too but I think the Mazda 6 feels much nicer. Gucci Loafers fucked around with this message at 22:09 on May 14, 2022 |
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May 14, 2022 20:01
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Honda Accord - 2017 2-Door Coupe?
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May 14, 2022 20:31
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Looking at what some of the folks want for that... $25k for a five year old coupe? I don't know if I can justify that or is there something else I'm missing?
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May 14, 2022 20:44
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Used car prices are stupid across the board right now, in case you've been living under a rock. Now is a great* time to buy new if you can afford it and wait for delivery. * relative to used
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May 14, 2022 20:55
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Yeah the only reason to buy a car right now rather than fix your current one (IMO) a. Moved to another country, didn't remember to import your car with you b. Had a(nother) baby need more hauling capacity c. Wrecked old car d. Car had catastrophic failure and keeping this one on the road for two more years is going to cost more than $10k and/or weeks in and out of the shop e. Got a big promotion and buying the car you always wanted For me it was a combination of b and e
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May 14, 2022 21:01
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Hadlock posted:Yeah the only reason to buy a car right now rather than fix your current one (IMO) D and E for one car and C on the second car all in the same year, what do I win
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May 14, 2022 21:15
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Credit card debt and two ibuprofen for your headache
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May 14, 2022 21:17
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My wife and I have made it to our 40s without ever owning a car. We managed fine with public transit, Zipcar and rentals. That’s changing since the pandemic because we are now driving to visit family often enough that it seems possible that owning or leasing would be comparable in price in return for a nicer experience. Since we have never negotiated a car purchase before, we don’t know what to expect from the sales process. We’re pretty sure we want a Corolla Hybrid. We’ve done a good amount of research, test drove one and liked it. We’re leaning towards leasing, and treating the vehicle as a consumption good, but we have money that we could just buy with cash. Our ZipCar and rentals cost about $4400 last year, so that’s our starting point. The test drive process was weird. The dealer rep took down a bunch of our information and then proceeded to do everything in his power to never say a number. We ran out of time on the Zipcar rental we’d taken to get there and had to leave before negotiating. What actually is meant to happen when you buy a car?
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May 15, 2022 13:19
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doingitwrong posted:The test drive process was weird. The dealer rep took down a bunch of our information and then proceeded to do everything in his power to never say a number. We ran out of time on the Zipcar rental we’d taken to get there and had to leave before negotiating. Basically you'll test drive it and like it, then the sales person will ask "so how much can you put down? Or, we can run your credit and get you out of here with Zero Down! *if you qualify. Then they'll take a piece of paper and divide it into 4 quads to show you what eventually works out to your "monthly price". Along the way they add poo poo you don't want as fees and you walk out slightly upset that you paid 18k instead of 15k but now you have a car so whoop! Do some research, check if your bank/credit union has a favorable rate for a loan. If you walk in with a check for 20k it's slightly harder to upsell you and easier for you to justify walking away. Or you can overpay a bit for Carvana and Bing bong done.
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May 15, 2022 14:36
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I’m going to show my rear end here and confess that I bought a car from Avis last year and the experience was a million times better than that of a dealership. 2 hour test drive or you can rent the car for two days and if you buy it they comp the rental costs. Means I had time to schedule a visit to a highly rated mechanic that specialized on that brand, had the car lifted and thoroughly checked instead of just a barebones PPI at the dealership, plus actually got drive it in real life situations, parking it in my usual spot, had my wife drive it, drove it in the rain, etc. The sales process was fairly low stress because the prices are fixed so it was just a matter of pulling the trigger and everything is done over the phone. Caveat the salespeople clearly make commission on total price so they will try to convince you to go for higher financing and addons like gap insurance but if you say no they don’t push back. Downside was of course a 1.5 y/o car with 40k miles on it, but I bought with no plans of selling so in the end 20k or 40k didn’t make a difference if I plan on running it for 200k miles. dpkg chopra fucked around with this message at 15:50 on May 15, 2022 |
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May 15, 2022 15:18
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Your main goal at a dealer is to force them to focus on total cost of the transaction, sometimes called "out the door" but they'll try to use that term for other stuff which isn't that if you let them. You just want to collapse the whole multifaceted discussion into one topic: how much am I paying for this dang old car. If you know the following before you ever visit the dealer and stick to it, you may not get the best deals ever (depending on your research abilities) and you may not get your dream car but your finances will never suffer for a salesperson pressuring you into bad decisions: 1. How much do I want to pay for a car 2. What do I need the car to do/what am I looking for in a test drive 3. What terms am I financing under You should be able to figure 1 out by running a longer term budget based on how often you expect to replace the car vs how much it depreciates. You can eventually tie it back to monthly or yearly costs but I find it better to think about a car being a pile of money you burn over X years and depending how long X is, more of it is burnt away while you also got some extra time out of it. So to compare to your Zipcar receipts needs a little more calculus than just $4400 a year. Yes this includes leases because you need to come up with breakpoints for when you'd do a buyout at the end or reasons you may want or need to terminate it early. Car as a service only accounts simply for those rentals and Zipcars. You own and/or manage a capital asset in any other case. 2 is obvious and sounds like you have covered. 3 includes lease vs financed vs cash. If you can pay cash you actually have the most flexibility which you can also use as ammo. Even if you want and eventually end up with a lease, its useful to come in with a financing preapproval and/or the cash on hand to steer the conversation toward them trying to help you get advantaged lease terms to compete with your financing or cash in hand instead of using it as an avenue to hide bullshit in a long term contract. Cash is usually never the right answer unless there's some real bullshit going on in the financial market but its a good sword of damocles hanging over the financers and dealers to encourage beneficial negotiation. If you go in forewarned and forearmed you can keep an honest salesperson honest and get good faith negotiation that benefits everyone. They can still find some bullshit angles (be careful with tax and title becoming mercurial unknowable variables that don't stabilize till you actually sign a contract, and remember you can back out at anytime something stinks sometimes including when they have your money although your luck may vary in getting it back). A dishonest salesperson is still going to try to work the angles. You can ask for someone else, or walk on the whole dealer knowing that scummy salespeople work for scummy dealers who are probably going to charge you $800 to ruin your wiring harness with a repo GPS bug. Car buying services take a lot of pressure off but mostly in the form of needing you to come in knowing points 1-3 already else you can fall into the same traps dealers do anyway.
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May 15, 2022 16:12
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FilthyImp posted:
Thanks. This is helpful for giving a picture of the actual process. So the deal is that after a we agree on the vehicle we want, we go through whatever song and dance while I keep an eye on total cost of the vehicle and they do whatever they can. Eventually, we come to a tentative agreement and then there’s paperwork to fill out with financing. Meanwhile we’re getting car insurance negotiated with our broker. What about things like licence plates. When do those come in?
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May 15, 2022 17:34
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The dealer will register the car for you and put plates on. Depending on the state those will either be temp plates or the real ones. Come in with your own financing pre-approved. If they can beat it, great. If not, no big deal. Don't tell them you have financing until after you agree on a price for the car.
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May 15, 2022 18:15
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KillHour posted:The dealer will register the car for you and put plates on. Depending on the state those will either be temp plates or the real ones. They will typically charge you for this, but they will do it for you.
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May 16, 2022 11:34
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zedprime posted:be careful with tax and title becoming mercurial unknowable variables that don't stabilize till you actually sign a contract How much sales tax you pay shouldn't be some big mystery. And is part of the reason I don't like dealing on out the door prices. Go to any car forums new car price thread and you'll see 12 trillion people talking about their OTD price and none of them are comparable because everyone's taxes and registration and DMV title fees are different but non negotiable costs. Doc fees are negotiable. Sales tax isn't. Deal on the stuff that you can actually deal on, and keep in mind how much your non negotiable fees are going to add to that total.
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May 16, 2022 13:49
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