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evil_bunnY posted:What kind of vehicle will determine your options. For an on-road unit, find a rolling chassis or builder's kit that matches the wheelbase. For something else it'll be very dependent on vehicle type/architecture and the performance you expect out of it. It's based on this thing, I want to be able to drive it around ibdoors and preferably on a normal road with some low inclines, nothing more: https://www.bruder.de/de/sortiment/einsatzfahrzeuge/02536-mercedes-benz-sprinter-ambulanz-mit-sanitaeter.html Where do I find these things? Preferably EU, but will use anything for research. My only ressources so far are Conrad and a local onlineshop and they really only seem to sell more exensive options. I am willing to spend a bit more if it means I actually get more out of it in the long run, like on a proper remote or something.
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Dec 11, 2021 15:14
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SEKCobra posted:It's based on this thing, I want to be able to drive it around ibdoors and preferably on a normal road with some low inclines, nothing more: This guy has converted a Bruder Sprinter to RC - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RoHxAG1QaQ. There's a Facebook group https://www.facebook.com/996cedar/ , and there looks to be a lot of people who convert their tread vehicles to RC, so some of that may be applicable - https://duckduckgo.com/?q=bruder+conversion+to+rc&t=osx&ia=web
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Dec 11, 2021 18:01
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MarxCarl posted:This guy has converted a Bruder Sprinter to RC - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RoHxAG1QaQ. Oh awesome find, that's definitely I'll reference in the future! I'm planning to 3D print most of my chassis/drivetrain etc. however. I hope I can get some details on sourcing parts from this. Cheers!
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Dec 11, 2021 18:34
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I have another question about motor specs. I have sourced a few different motors and they have EXTREMELY different specs. They also have very different footprints. I don't know the name of all of them, but I believe I have a few N20 motors, a 380 and something approaching a 550 (not sure if it's actually that, but it's the biggest one). I can fit all of them within the footprint of my model, but the amount of gearing I could put after that varies a lot. I have been unable to find a good resource on what a "normal" output RPM should be. I have tried to calculate a rough estimate, but I am also not sure what a reasonable speed for this thing would be (it has no proper tires for example, so it probably really shouldn't go THAT fast). Can anyone give me some sort of ballpark figures? Is it common to just hook up the motor directly to the axle with whatever minimal gearing there is in the diff/axle gear? I feel like maybe that's the idea because a motor doesn't exactly output 11.000 RPM when loaded. I am trying to decide on which motor I need and should design parts for, but having no real reference I am at a total loss on how to choose the right one.
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Dec 21, 2021 17:41
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SEKCobra posted:Can anyone give me some sort of ballpark figures? Is it common to just hook up the motor directly to the axle with whatever minimal gearing there is in the diff/axle gear? I feel like maybe that's the idea because a motor doesn't exactly output 11.000 RPM when loaded. In the most basic pan car setups, yes, the only gearing they have is a pinion on the motor and a spur gear on the axle shaft. Most other forms of R/C car have more complex geartrains by necessity, but in practice that also means they end up running a larger pinion / smaller spur gear than a pan car would, since they're also accounting for the gear reduction in the rest of the chassis. Since you aren't going for "competitive racing" here, you'll definitely want to err on the side of a "low" / numerically high ratio. Going too far that direction just means your top speed is lower than you'd like. Going way too far the other direction could result in a top speed higher than you want, or possibly lower than you want if you way overshoot it, and adds the possibility of overheating the motor. To figure out what sort of ratio you want, pick a reasonable travel speed for the car, then do the math with the tire diameter to figure out wheel RPM at that speed, and then you can back that out to a ratio that gives you a reasonable motor RPM at that speed.
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Dec 21, 2021 18:09
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Direct drive with a big spur gear and small pinion on the axel is a thing for pan cars, but I'm not sure you'll have space to do that in the thing you're making. A lot of basic gearboxes for RC cars have a couple idler gears going to the diff, so it's pinion > spur outside the box and then a couple idlers to the diff inside the box. I would just look at what scale rc in a similar size use and then assume you can get away with a lot less power due to the whole no tires thing. N20 seems small to me, but you could go off specs from a normal RC to guess. This 1/24 crawler kit uses an N30 and they list out their transmission gear ratios and whatnot. It's about half the size of your thing I think, but also does have real tires and is more about driving around: https://store.rc4wd.com/rc4wd-124-trail-finder-2-rtr-w-mojave-ii-bodyset-red.html
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Dec 21, 2021 18:16
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IOwnCalculus posted:In the most basic pan car setups, yes, the only gearing they have is a pinion on the motor and a spur gear on the axle shaft. Most other forms of R/C car have more complex geartrains by necessity, but in practice that also means they end up running a larger pinion / smaller spur gear than a pan car would, since they're also accounting for the gear reduction in the rest of the chassis. Yeah that's what I did, but I have no idea if 11 km/h is reasonable or blisteringly fast here. Designing a gearbox for this sorta top speed means I have to go for a 1:12 ratio which is a bit of a challenge in my footprint. I mean I have done it, but running 3d printed gears at 11k RPMs (or potentially more, since the 380 motor is apparently 26k) has me worried about feasibility. My test setup runs incredibly loud even though I am using herringbone gears already. Finding ready made gears that would fit in my footprint has proven more than challenging, although I have considered using ready made 0,5M gears and hoping for the best. I guess I am wondering if designing for unloaded RPMs is even realistic, or will a motor with an actual output attached actually run at half that? I have no frame of reference here and it would suck to whip up an entire drivetrain to just find out that I am now unable to run anywhere close to design speed. My tests so far have revolved around the N20 because it was the first one I got and is also by far easiest to fit within my constraints.
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Dec 21, 2021 18:39
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I'd guess anything faster than walking pace is gonna be too much for something like what you're making. You could pull it along on a string or something to get a feel for how much it can handle. Do you have a speed controller for the motor or are you just running it on a switch?
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Dec 21, 2021 19:15
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powderific posted:I'd guess anything faster than walking pace is gonna be too much for something like what you're making. You could pull it along on a string or something to get a feel for how much it can handle. Do you have a speed controller for the motor or are you just running it on a switch? I have a brushed motor esc that is completely overspecced, yeah. I like the string idea, but i have no idea how to keasure the speed then? SEKCobra fucked around with this message at 19:50 on Dec 21, 2021 |
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Dec 21, 2021 19:44
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I don't think you have to be super precise there, just like... can you run with it, can you walk at full speed kinda thing. If you can walk at full speed say 5kph, run say 10kph or something like that. You could measure you're pace with GPS if you really wanted but I'm thinking it'd be more to show you if the thing's just gonna bounce over at anything other than slow walking pace. For your motor speed stuff, what about one of these little guys — with the built in reduction drive the output shaft is way lower RPM: https://store.rc4wd.com/n30-micro-motor.html It does seem a little small for your application but not sure how much you really need. Another option that's 7k rpm and a little bigger: https://store.rc4wd.com/FF-030-Micro-Electric-Motor_p_4957.html they also have 540 size motors that're more like 5k RPM if you could do a bigger motor if you didn't need as much reduction.
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Dec 21, 2021 20:29
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powderific posted:I don't think you have to be super precise there, just like... can you run with it, can you walk at full speed kinda thing. If you can walk at full speed say 5kph, run say 10kph or something like that. You could measure you're pace with GPS if you really wanted but I'm thinking it'd be more to show you if the thing's just gonna bounce over at anything other than slow walking pace. Oh yeah good point. I'll do that when my steering rack is done, which should be very soon. I have some N20s with integrated gearing on order that look like that N30
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Dec 21, 2021 20:40
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How is thread not more popular? I just got into RC and holy smokes it is fun. I'm planning on selling my race car because this is so much more affordable than racing real cars.
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May 17, 2022 00:12
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You should just put remote controls on your existing race car
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May 17, 2022 00:16
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GOD IS BED posted:How is thread not more popular? I just got into RC and holy smokes it is fun. I'm planning on selling my race car because this is so much more affordable than racing real cars. The sport is saturated by the generation or two older than this forum. And.. or.. people who use the r/c stuff as a laugh and treat them as toys. I am going to go back to racing this year. I was involved for 2-3 years before covid. But the whole standing on a drivers stand with... ~Them~ didn't appeal to me. I do mostly onroad. But I've been building a fleet of M class rally cars for use in driveways and such.
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May 17, 2022 01:12
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Ah, that makes sense. I've only hung out with my friends who have all gotten bit by the RC bug.namlosh posted:You should just put remote controls on your existing race car I can't see this cutting costs down very much
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May 17, 2022 02:37
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GOD IS BED posted:Ah, that makes sense. I've only hung out with my friends who have all gotten bit by the RC bug. I mean, a 100% build, top of the line car is still going to be under $2000. Car, spares, esc, motor, servo. "Good enough to win on a national level" is still in the $1500 range. "Good enough to win on the local level" is $800. Pro level consumables is more like $120 a weekend. (two sets of practice tires, plus tire compound, and the handout tires.) Typical weekend consumables is $20 or $40. Batteries are fair to be called yearly consumables. And bodies last as long as you don't run into walls. Versus real racing, you can do it every week, or a couple times a week, so you'll do it a whole lot more. It's still dirt cheap as racing goes. Most of what you buy for r/c are very durable goods. Chargers, Radios, Servos, ESCs, many tuning parts, and tools are good for decades. A setup tool from 1995 still works today. Chargers are chargers, so long as they're for the chemistry you're using. I know guys who are still running first, and second generation 2.4ghz radios, as what makes a good radio, good, is still good today. While we're talking about it, there's a lot of.. uh.. witchcraft that's spoken of as "truth" in r/c. R/C cars are real cars. They work the same. Always have, always will. If it seems like magic, look for the deeper explanation. Know your reasons. Beware of infighting, and cliques. They're strong here. EDIT: Since I"m here..... The stuff in r/c is getting really neat. Lets talk about the last few years of r/c car suspension design. Most on-road stuff happens on carpet. Carpet provides catastrophic levels of grip. Traction rolling is a thing you need to tune around. So the gluing of tire sidewalls to effectively reduce traction in corners became a thing. As the forces have gone up, stiffness of the suspension has needed to go up. Stiffer arms, stiffer knuckles... and as of late, double A arm setups to provide real caster, camber, control regardless of the side forces the suspension is seeing. Like they do with real cars, a lot of the tuning of these chassis comes from adjusting the overall stiffness of the car. Aluminum, carbon, decks and bridges of different thicknesses and different amounts of cutouts are a thing. Most brands of cars, with any sort of racing pedigree, have a wide range of materials available for many parts of the car. For instance X-Ray has no less than four materials for their suspension arms. Tamiya offers at least three. In general, I believe that traction levels, both on-road and off, are far to high. This is a very limiting factor for getting people into the sport. Speeds are so high, even with very low power motors. For many classes, lots of the game is dealing with your one or two braking points, then doing everything you can to conserve velocity without hitting walls. It's, not easy. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 12:41 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 12:25
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Posted this on Reddit, then I remembered this thread and trust you all more! I have been playing with my RCs lately and have a hankering for something new. I have a few things from the beginning of Covid (Traxxas Slash, TRX-4, Stampede 4x4, LC Racing EMB-TG, Losi Mini-T 2.0 and a drift Kyosho Mini-Z) but would like to add something fun. I think I need a buggy? And I like small scale in general, so I was leaning that direction. Trying to be under 200 if I can. I mostly use them on asphalt with a bit of sand/dirt/grass, so more bashing-ish vs any racing. I have been thinking of 4 wildly different things. -Mini-Z or Carisma Gt24b. Cool looking buggies, but 1/24 scale makes it just about inside only I would assume? -Losi Mini-B. Love my Mini-T, but is a Mini-B different enough to scratch a new car itch? -Team Assoiated 14b. Looks bad rear end, but have the same thought as the Losi’s. Is it different enough from my EMB-TG? -Arrma Typhon Mega. A bit over 200, and 1/8 vs smaller. But… it’s a buggy. It’s different. Never owned an Arrma and have seen people gush over them (but mostly 3s and 6s). Anyone ran any of these? Or am I missing anything?
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Jun 20, 2022 17:49
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I've had a hankering to play with some RC stuff, and I've been looking nostalgically at the Tamiya stuff we were too broke to afford when I was a kid. I had a couple super crappy toy grade RC toys, but nothing I had to put together or anything like that, so I'm essentially completely new to this, and wanted to ask some basic questions. I was considering the Midnight Pumpkin because I want a fairly simple kit to put together (largely so when something inevitably breaks I feel more confident pulling it apart to find out what's wrong) and it seems like a simple, fairly rugged starting point I can throw new parts at if I feel like it, and it's relatively slow compared to new stuff so it's less likely to get broken by me or my kiddo once she's a little older. If I get one along with recommended electronics listed on the store page here does that seem decent, or are there better options for a similar price around? When people say the included bushings are garbage, and to replace them with bearings do they mean something like the standard Plaig options here or something fancier? I couldn't see anywhere to order the Fast Eddy's bearings within Australia that people have recommended. Also if I later get another Tamiya kit do I need to buy another receiver/controller, or can I just get a little receiver for cheaper and use the same controller? The kits themselves are decently priced, but when I add on the other required crap it quickly gets pretty pricey!
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Jun 25, 2022 00:38
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I went down this exact path back in 2018 when I bought my re-issued Tamiya Lunchbox. I bought a FlySky transmitter and receiver off eBay. The lunchbox kit came with an ESC. I ordered a steering servo, Fast Eddy bearings and battery pack off Amazon and that was it. Three years later, I bought a second Tamiya kit and ordered a second receiver off eBay and basically repeated the Amazon order.
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Jun 25, 2022 01:00
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McTinkerson posted:I went down this exact path back in 2018 when I bought my re-issued Tamiya Lunchbox. Cool, thanks for that. I had forgotten about the servo because it wasn't listed amongst the required parts. I wanted to grab one of the ESC included kits, but they seem to be out of stock everywhere unfortunately. I did find another hobby shop that had a Tamiya completion bundle for what seems to be $50~ cheaper than buying everything separately. It does have a Virus 15kg metal geared servo in it, I couldn't see anything positive about the brand with a quick google, but if it's awful I'm sure I can replace it, the rest of it seems to be okay quality, Tornado 2400mah battery & charger, FlySky GTB2, and a Hobbywing WP60a ESC. Also apparently the Grasshopper bearings are the same sizes as the Pumpkin & Lunchbox, just with 1 extra, and I found a place that stocks the fast eddy kits for Grasshoppers for a decent price so that's a win! Mahatma-Squid fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Jun 25, 2022 |
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Jun 25, 2022 02:58
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RC vehicle shenanigans do not have to stop just because it has snowed.   Although I do have to order a limited slip for the TT-02 (part number 22046). Edit: Actually, look at this: https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/option-parts/rc-ball-differential-set-39t/ This is why I love Tamiya. McTinkerson fucked around with this message at 20:59 on Dec 28, 2022 |
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Dec 28, 2022 20:33
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McTinkerson posted:RC vehicle shenanigans do not have to stop just because it has snowed. Your 02 owns. What parts did you use to get that much lift and those tires on it?
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Dec 28, 2022 21:06
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Your 02 owns. What parts did you use to get that much lift and those tires on it? The chassis and shock towers in rally config and eBay 80mm oil dampers with the "soft" Tamiya springs. Plus a 10mm body lift. That's it. It's surprisingly simple.
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Dec 28, 2022 21:10
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McTinkerson posted:The chassis and shock towers in rally config and eBay 80mm oil dampers with the "soft" Tamiya springs. Plus a 10mm body lift. That's it. It's surprisingly simple. Wow, 80mms will fit in the stock "high" chassis config? Noted... Edit: Makes me wonder if the stock CC01 dampers will fit. Think it's time to get up to some hijinks tonight. Boaz MacPhereson fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Dec 28, 2022 |
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Dec 28, 2022 22:36
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McTinkerson posted:Although I do have to order a limited slip for the TT-02 (part number 22046).
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Dec 28, 2022 23:20
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McTinkerson posted:Although I do have to order a limited slip for the TT-02 (part number 22046). So why this, instead of packing the stock diff with some million weight grease, or going with one of the oil filled options? Ball diffs are "more or less" abandoned by the hobby.
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Dec 29, 2022 04:12
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Ball diffs are much lighter and don’t require swapping oil/grease to tune
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Dec 29, 2022 23:08
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kuffs posted:Ball diffs are much lighter and don’t require swapping oil/grease to tune If you're running a TT02, light isn't your concern. Ball diffs require rebuilding a lot more often than oil filled, and require chasing if you want to have consistent diff feel. They are not a set, and forget, thing like oil filled is.
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Dec 30, 2022 00:52
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Hopping onboard the TT-02 X-Mas train as well  I'm amazed at the battery lifetime with this thing vs an old Traxxis 4x4 thing my brother and I had when we were kids. Granted the 4x4 thing was probably a 1/8 or 1/7 scale, but it would barely manage to get 10 minutes of battery. Meanwhile after 30 minutes of running this TT-02 around I haven't had to swap a battery out so far  That being said, parts already on order:
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Dec 30, 2022 05:00
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Wicaeed posted:Hopping onboard the TT-02 X-Mas train as well Please don't do the aluminum convesion kit. Aluminum is not good for MOST of the parts they might replace. What you end up with, is a delicate, heavy, machine. The oil filled diff is good. If you want a diff locking block, I'll mail you one. Bearings are good. Edit: So.. I own a LOT of r/c cars. I have four TT-02's and a TT-01 for various reasons. The best things to have for the TT series is, beyond a good radio and servo are: Heavy duty servo saver, oil filled shocks, and if it's a TT02, the hard tub. The servo saver stops the car wandering. It turns out, the stock plastic bits are really just fine... Oil filled shocks stop the car from suddenly darting in a weird direction, and makes it overall more stable. The hard tub, takes the springyness of the tub down a few notches, making the car behave more consistantly. Instead of spending $30 a pop on oil filled diffs, I spent $5 on a tub of million weight grease, and stuffed that in the front diff. The TT02 is "a toy car, you get to build". Please, don't throw cubic dollars at it. It doesn't ever get past being a TT02, and you end up with a very expensive toy, and likely, a delicate one. Buying a TT02 you're really paying for a cheap motor, cheap esc, a decent set of wheels and tires, and a really good body set. The chassis is "free". Good r/c cars never have aluminum shock towers, knuckles, or suspension arms. ~there's really good reasons~ for that. You sometimes see aluminum uprights, but that's more beucase molds are expensive, not that aluminum is the ideal material for that. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 05:13 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 05:05
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Nerobro posted:Please don't do the aluminum convesion kit. Aluminum is not good for MOST of the parts they might replace. What you end up with, is a delicate, heavy, machine. Well it's already on the way so that ship has sailed  The aluminum chassis bits are a total splurge and idiotic I'll freely admit, however thanks to the magic of CC points & Amazon prime it was gratis, and after a few hours of looking around on various sites at the Hop Up options I could potentially go with, and seeing the kit comes with the shocks, center shaft and suspension parts I'm wanting, seemed the simplest choice  I'm still trying to figure out which end of the car to put this oil-filled diff in. My biggest gripe with the stock TT02 chassis/parts currently is with the front lower A-arms. The stock configuration quite heavily restrict the left/right movement allowed from the servo, limiting the allowed steering input, which in turn makes it of hard to get the car to do something as simple as doughnuts (on semi-dry pavement at least) from a standstill, or launch the car into a sideways drift at speed. Would throwing the oil diff in the front vs the rear with some 100K WT oil help to achieve that sort of handling?
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Dec 30, 2022 07:08
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Wicaeed posted:Well it's already on the way so that ship has sailed Man, you dove in deep. Hahah. Ok from the top. If that set comes with shocks, aluminum center shaft, and things like dogbones? Sweet. If it's got 3 deg rear uprights? put those on too. The aluminum arms are prone to bending, so are the adjustable upper links, and that puts you in a place where you wonder why your car doesn't drive the same left, and right. Oil filled diff goes in the back. On the street, maybe 20k oil? The rear can be pretty loose. Grab some foam earplugs and shove them in the front diff when you're buildig it. "Best handling" tends to come with a locked front diff and a progressive rear. It leads to a car that pushes a bit and has really good braking. Becuase the chassis is somewhat rear biased weight wise, the front tires come off the ground more. Your gripe is becuase of who the target market is. Realisticly you won't get much more travel since it has dogbones, and if you do use that travel, you're interfereing with the cups, or are at the point of spitting the dogbones out. You CAN cut off the blocks on the lower arms. Expect to have trouble if you do. Especially with the stock servo saver. If the kit of parts you bought has universals, you might just be fine. The cars reluctance to spin, might be more of a power issue. Please tell me you have a LiPo of some sort in there? If you're wanting a car that'll get the back end loose, you might want to reverse my advice. Locked rear diff is more likely to break loose. Edit: So why does Nero have so many TT02's? Well... I have one at a friends house, to have a car ~there~. I have another that's setup as a rally car, because who the heck cares about beating up a TT02, that's also why I have a hopped up TT02b, I have one as a body stand (remember, free chassis!) and I have a TT01e for my racing Euro Truck. The tt02b has eaten so many drivetrain components I can't even begin to describe it. The rest? Racing. Somewhere here, there's a M05, M06, M07, M08, F104, TA07, TA08, FF04, TRF201, Xray T4, Xray 2wd buggy, CRC Gen-X RT, 3-Racing Sakura Advance S, 3-Racing MG Mini, Xpress Xq1s, MST TCR, Losi 4wd of some sort, a few Mini-z's and some micro r/c cars too. Second Edit: So.. I've been down the hop-up rabbit hole on a M05, a TT02, and a TA07. My TA07 has a long story with it, and it's GOOD. When I buy a touring car, I tend to buy the basic set of repair parts, and the tune parts so I wouldn't be left in a lurch at the track. The basic set of parts, in my eyes, is a full set of arms, knuckles, a few ball cups, and the right ball ends. The TT02b adventure was defintiely not worth it. Nor was the M05. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 07:52 on Dec 30, 2022 |
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Dec 30, 2022 07:38
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Maybe you guys can help me out as I'm having a hell of a time finding an answer. Are the Yeah Racing shocks' length measured from eye-to-eye or as the overall uncompressed length? I'm looking for 65mm eye-to-eye and I don't know if the 65mm or the 70mm are what I should be looking at.
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Jan 1, 2023 23:36
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Maybe you guys can help me out as I'm having a hell of a time finding an answer. Are the Yeah Racing shocks' length measured from eye-to-eye or as the overall uncompressed length? I'm looking for 65mm eye-to-eye and I don't know if the 65mm or the 70mm are what I should be looking at. It's eye to eye.
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Jan 2, 2023 09:43
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 Got a no-name 1:16 crawler off of Amazon for the kid and he's over the moon. I can't believe the battery lasted for 2 hours of backyard climbing. I got myself a redcat gen8 v2 with a 3000-something mAh lipo to "play with him" that lasted the same. Ridiculous fun. The little "Toyota?" just won't quit. It's geared fantastically well, top speed is maybe 5 mph but it's impossible to stall. Perfect for a kid because it won't go fast enough to break things and has enough power that it just churns through the pine straw and grass. Holding the throttle down without any concern for reality is ok, we only stopped to teach him how to clean debris from wrapping around driveshafts and wheel hubs. It was enough that he didn't get tired of it, he just got tired. I forgot how big 1:10 vehicles were. My only r/c experience before was a 1:16 e-revo which is an altogether different experience, but I enjoyed the hell out of this. I let him drive the big car one time, he flipped it 4 times and almost took out his own legs. A positive experience.
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Jan 2, 2023 11:51
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Nerobro posted:It's eye to eye. Kick rear end, thank you.
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Jan 2, 2023 16:39
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I got my kiddo a latrax teton for Xmas and he is also over the moon about it. Already bought a spare set of a-arms for it because of course. It was a good excuse to dredge my 4wd Stampede out of the mothballs and get it going. The old tires were bald and the body was destroyed, so those were first up. Got some Pro-Line Badlands with the replaceable narrow and wide hubs, and an Arrma Granite body since it’s basically the exact measurements of the stampede, and I like the color scheme. Just have to drill the appropriate body post holes The steering servo is squealing something fierce and the bearings in general just sound noisy. I’ll stick a metal gear servo in it, but is there anyone who makes a good complete bearing replacement kit? 
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Jan 4, 2023 02:25
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I got my kiddo a latrax teton for Xmas and he is also over the moon about it. Already bought a spare set of a-arms for it because of course. Team Fasteddy is the best. Quick shipping, best price and a quality set of bearings. Many bearing resellers will source their bearings through him and I know of one manufacturer that buys direct to use in their kits.
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Jan 4, 2023 04:15
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Somewhat Heroic posted:Team Fasteddy is the best. Ordered!
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Jan 4, 2023 13:49
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I am getting very close to pulling the trigger on the most expensive r/c I've ever purchased- a Cross RC BC8 Mammoth which is a scale Soviet era MAZ-537 ultra heavy cargo truck (the real one pulls ICBMs, tanks, and all kinds of other crazy poo poo). I had never seen the Cross RC stuff in person until last month when I went out to do some scale logging at a buddies house with property and a few of them all had Cross RC military style rigs....and holy poo poo those things are built STRONG. I saw a BC8 in person as one of them had one and in the 30 some years of being involved in r/c, it was probably the single most impressive rig I've ever seen. It was hauling 50 lbs of logs through the woods and through deep mud. I had recently dumped a lot of cash into a Tamiya semi truck (my first foray into r/c semis) and upon seeing the Cross stuff, immediately knew I made a mistake with the relatively fragile Tamiya stuff and it just sold so I've got a good bit of cash for the Mammoth but maaaaan. $1,500 is A LOT of coin as we are probably talking $2k once I finish it with electronics and everything else. However, the BC8 is built to the 9's with drat near everything on it machined (it also comes with lights and a sound system) to where there are no hop-ups needed for it. My friend has owned his about a year and says its his favorite vehicle in fleet by far, and he beats the crap out of it. What to do what to do. Suppose I can always sell it if it winds up just sitting on my shelf. (this is the BC8 for those wondering - https://www.crossrc.us/shop/bc-8-mammoth-flagship-version/)
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Jan 10, 2023 16:46
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