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biceps crimes
Apr 12, 2008


nvm

biceps crimes fucked around with this message at 23:07 on May 16, 2022

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skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

slidebite posted:

There are really only a handful of "major" manufacturers for appliances now. There are a few smaller specialty/Euro manufacturers (IE: Miele), but for 99% of homeowners it boils down to:

Whirlpool (Owns/manufactures Kitchen-Aid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, few others...)
Electrolux (Also owns Frigidaire)
GE (Hotpoint, few others)
Samsung (dear god no)
LG (Slightly better than Samsung by most accounts)

The only thing missing is that GE Appliances was sold to Haier back in 2016. Haier also owns Fisher and Paykel which is a niche player in the US market.

But yeah, there's really only a few choices.

Meaty Ore
Dec 17, 2011

My God, it's full of cat pictures!

slidebite posted:

There are really only a handful of "major" manufacturers for appliances now. There are a few smaller specialty/Euro manufacturers (IE: Miele), but for 99% of homeowners it boils down to:

Whirlpool (Owns/manufactures Kitchen-Aid, Maytag, Jenn-Air, Amana, few others...)
Electrolux (Also owns Frigidaire)
GE (Hotpoint, few others)
Samsung (dear god no)
LG (Slightly better than Samsung by most accounts)

As others have mentioned, typically, the more basic, the better. FWIW, I did some pretty heavy research back when we bought our current home (2017) and ended up with:

Washer and Dryer: Electrolux
Refrigerator/Freezer: Whirlpool (Kenmore)
Gas Range: Frigidaire (Kenmore)
DW: Bosch

I love Bosch dishwashers. I know some people complain about the drying capability, and it's true, some plastic items especially may not be dry, but god drat, it cleans well. I can easily live with giving some items a quick wipe with a towel from time to time before putting them away.

All of my appliances have been trouble free EXCEPT just recently, my fridge decided not to dispense cold water/ice anymore. I thought it was the main water valve which I replaced but it's still no beuno. I haven't done any other troubleshooting. Otherwise, it still cools very well. It is something I plan to repair though.

Some manufacturers have specific strong suits. For example, GE has a pretty bad rap from a lot of people, but from what I understand they do gas ranges very well. Whirlpool/Maytag had big issues with their front loader washers but top loaders were still pretty good (not sure if that's still the case, the Maytag Neptune washers was regarded by some to be the beginning of the end for Maytag). Frigidaire ranges are typically solid, if not great, but their dishwashers are pretty much "meh"

Many "high end models" like Kitchen-Aid, Frigidaire Gallery, are often mechanically the exact same as much lower priced models with a couple of frills put into it. Like with fridges, a fancy shelf, dishwasher, a couple dB reduction. One of those things were spending more will likely not result in a more reliable appliance.

e: Regarding Samsung, there are some very loyal brand defenders of them for some reason, but the biggest issue, from what I understand with repair people, is parts for the Korean brands, Samsung in particular, are brutal. I know someone that waited over 9 months for a part for their built in oven.

I feel like we must have gotten lucky with our Samsung fridge; we've had it for about eight years now and have had absolutely no problems with it. On the other hand, it was a fairly basic model, so I guess maybe there's less stuff there that could fail?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sirotan posted:

These are pretty cool, though my birds are not particularly accurate depictions. :)

Yeah not all the images drawn by male turn of the century explorers at that page are particularly accurate either. Spoilered for mild NSFW which I've pixelated out.:






There's some other real fantastic ones in there that I'm also apparently not allowed to print and put up in the living room or entranceway.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Meaty Ore posted:

I feel like we must have gotten lucky with our Samsung fridge; we've had it for about eight years now and have had absolutely no problems with it. On the other hand, it was a fairly basic model, so I guess maybe there's less stuff there that could fail?

drat, I was sad to hear about Samsung. They’ve got this one fridge that seemed right up our alley:

https://www.costco.com/samsung-29-cu.-ft.-bespoke-4-door-flex-smart-refrigerator-with-distinctive-color-combinations.product.100768308.html

We’re always looking for more refrigerator space for produce so we figured we could get this and just use our chest freezer for everything.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Sorry to spam the thread, it's only because I just moved.

One of the bedroom doors is rubbing at the far side, on the top. The hinges are properly fixed to the door and the doorframe. The top part of the doorframe is out of square and comes down about 1/8" on that far side. The door is square in the doorframe in all other dimensions.

It's a solid wood door. Is the right move here to take the door off, cut it so it's parallel to the top of the doorframe, paint, and reinstall? This is a concrete condo that was reno'd in 2015, the door moulding/frame would be from that time. I'm not really willing at this time to reframe the doorway, and I'm more than happy to replace the (cut) door in the future if I decide to undertake that. For now I'd just like the door to shut properly and have even gaps.

korora
Sep 3, 2011

more falafel please posted:

Since we're doing plasterchat, I need to find studs in a plaster/lath wall built in 1906. I'm trying to install these Rockler floating shelf brackets, so I need to get pretty close to the center of the stud. I know not to assume 16" OC, is the best advice to just drill a small hole near the baseboards, and if it's hitting wood after an inch or so deep then it's on a stud? A stud finder/magnets/etc are just going to be worthless, right?
I’ve had luck using a Stud Buddy (magnetic stud finder) on plaster but I could easily imagine it not working if your plaster is thicker. For $10 I would try that before searching with a drill though.

Phil Moscowitz
Feb 19, 2007

If blood be the price of admiralty,
Lord God, we ha' paid in full!

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry to spam the thread, it's only because I just moved.

One of the bedroom doors is rubbing at the far side, on the top. The hinges are properly fixed to the door and the doorframe. The top part of the doorframe is out of square and comes down about 1/8" on that far side. The door is square in the doorframe in all other dimensions.

It's a solid wood door. Is the right move here to take the door off, cut it so it's parallel to the top of the doorframe, paint, and reinstall? This is a concrete condo that was reno'd in 2015, the door moulding/frame would be from that time. I'm not really willing at this time to reframe the doorway, and I'm more than happy to replace the (cut) door in the future if I decide to undertake that. For now I'd just like the door to shut properly and have even gaps.

You can usually sand/grind it down so the door fits I would think.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Phil Moscowitz posted:

You can usually sand/grind it down so the door fits I would think.

I don't have a belt sander so it doesn't seem like an option.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

I don't have a belt sander so it doesn't seem like an option.

I wouldn't use a sander for that. If it was close I'd be using a wood plane. It's not only a hell of a lot cheaper but doesn't make nearly as much of a mess in what I would presume is finished space.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Motronic posted:

I wouldn't use a sander for that. If it was close I'd be using a wood plane. It's not only a hell of a lot cheaper but doesn't make nearly as much of a mess in what I would presume is finished space.

There's a cool communal shop in the parking garage area, I was going to take the door off, bring it down the elevator to the shop, clamp a guide piece of wood along it and use a circ saw to make the cut. Then bring it back up, test fit, then back down for paint.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

VelociBacon posted:

There's a cool communal shop in the parking garage area, I was going to take the door off, bring it down the elevator to the shop, clamp a guide piece of wood along it and use a circ saw to make the cut. Then bring it back up, test fit, then back down for paint.

Hey, if you're willing to take it off the hinges (and you need to cut enough to do that) it's a great plan. But if it's just a bit you can totally get away with not taking it off the hinges.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

Meaty Ore posted:

I feel like we must have gotten lucky with our Samsung fridge; we've had it for about eight years now and have had absolutely no problems with it. On the other hand, it was a fairly basic model, so I guess maybe there's less stuff there that could fail?

I have a pretty basic Samsung fridge because very few brands have 33" counter depth models. Seems fine so far but I haven't had it that long.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I had a Samsung at my old house and it was...fine-ish? Did need a new front panel at one point because the switches stopped responding, and the obnoxious blue LEDs they used were mostly always-on, causing them to fade significantly over time. Which itself was a win but it was extremely evident anytime you did anything that turned on an LED that wasn't normally on, like change ice modes.

I ended up with a Bosch at the new place because it needed a counter-depth fridge and I'm happy with it.

The KitchenAid dishwasher that the house came with, despite being one of their bougie models, sucks rear end at the basic task of getting dishes clean. If/when appliance availability ever goes to not-poo poo and my bank account isn't screaming from other projects, it may end up being the first time I ever replace an appliance without it breaking just because I loving hate it.

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

PainterofCrap posted:


- It does crack as the house settles, sooner than drywall will
- no, you probably won't have laser-level walls.



I will note that my parent's house is turning 100 soon and has no cracks in the wall (and has only needed repair due to water) and the walls are the closest thing to straight, at least as they align with each other. The entire house was built without crown and doesn't need it.
Like today, it all depends on how it was built. My parents house was a mid-20s custom home built for rich people who could afford nearly the best (there was one wealthier neighborhood in the city when it was built). A house built to a limited cost will have more issues.
It also has 100 year old stucco that has never cracked.


Appliance chat: my house required stackable so I got the POs maybe 8 year old LGs. They are a pain in the dick to fix. Like the washer door seal (which is practically a wear item dude to mold even if you leave the door open) which most makers let you replace from the front requires a complete disassembly. loving maddening.
My Frigidaire dishwasher was clearly the cheapest possible thing they could buy and sucks out loud. Its loud, cleans worse than, my old countertop, and I'm pretty sure I will need to replace the latch soon. I may replace the latch with a bosch.
The fridgidaire gas stove, despite the hilarious name is actually surprisingly good for something that is pretty cheap. Easy to clean, reasonably ok oven temps, the high burners are pretty high for a cheap range.

nm fucked around with this message at 08:39 on May 17, 2022

BIG-DICK-BUTT-FUCK
Jan 26, 2016

by Fluffdaddy

VelociBacon posted:

Sorry to spam the thread, it's only because I just moved.

One of the bedroom doors is rubbing at the far side, on the top. The hinges are properly fixed to the door and the doorframe. The top part of the doorframe is out of square and comes down about 1/8" on that far side. The door is square in the doorframe in all other dimensions.

It's a solid wood door. Is the right move here to take the door off, cut it so it's parallel to the top of the doorframe, paint, and reinstall? This is a concrete condo that was reno'd in 2015, the door moulding/frame would be from that time. I'm not really willing at this time to reframe the doorway, and I'm more than happy to replace the (cut) door in the future if I decide to undertake that. For now I'd just like the door to shut properly and have even gaps.

doorframes get fastened w little nails which can come loose with time and temp/humidity swings. try using 1-2 3" deck screws in the spot where it rubs to draw the door frame tight against the lumber again

Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

doorframes get fastened w little nails which can come loose with time and temp/humidity swings. try using 1-2 3" deck screws in the spot where it rubs to draw the door frame tight against the lumber again

Yes do this. Also try to avoid modifying the door itself because the door is not the problem. As the doorframe and house itself settles and gets more out of square (or even if the frame pieces come loose), some people (for whom I hope there is a special circle of hell) will just repeatedly plane down/saw off edges of the door so it continues to fit in an increasingly wonky frame, resulting in ugly, crooked doors that look like they belong in a county fair funhouse. My friend has this problem pretty badly in his house, and while our house and its doors have stayed pretty straight, we came into possession of a Second Empire armoire with a horribly crooked door - hinges had started sagging, and instead of fixing the hinges, the PO kept sawing away at the door's edges and proper repair will probably involve replacing some of the wood because it's that far gone. Don't even want to know how much grain matched French oak will cost.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

I"ll preface this with a disclaimer, this is what I personally understand from internet research right now. I'm not an expert nor have I ever owned one:

The Samsung fridges mechanically are actually fine. They have 2 major design flaws that cause almost all of the complaints that I've seen.

1) The icemaker in the refrigerator section has issues. It can leak, or basically freeze up into a solid block of ice and causes issues that way. There are a ton of youtube videos on how to fix this.

2) The refrigerator evap coil drain system does not drain properly, resulting in the refrigerator evap coil icing up into a block of ice and the top refrigerator section of the french door models does not cool properly. There is a well documented fix for this as well. The drain tube gets clogged, or doesn't allow the water to drain away during the defrost cycle, and things freeze up, or you end up with a bucket of water at the bottom of the fridge.

I'm personally not aware of any sort of catastrophic issues with the refrigeration components in Samsung refrigerators. LG had some major compressor issues for a while.

I would be comfortable with a non-smart Samsung fridge if I got it really cheap or it was already at the place I was living, but I'm also comfortable enough fixing appliances to fix the evap drain or the ice machine issue on them.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

skipdogg posted:

I"ll preface this with a disclaimer, this is what I personally understand from internet research right now. I'm not an expert nor have I ever owned one:

The Samsung fridges mechanically are actually fine. They have 2 major design flaws that cause almost all of the complaints that I've seen.

1) The icemaker in the refrigerator section has issues. It can leak, or basically freeze up into a solid block of ice and causes issues that way. There are a ton of youtube videos on how to fix this.

2) The refrigerator evap coil drain system does not drain properly, resulting in the refrigerator evap coil icing up into a block of ice and the top refrigerator section of the french door models does not cool properly. There is a well documented fix for this as well. The drain tube gets clogged, or doesn't allow the water to drain away during the defrost cycle, and things freeze up, or you end up with a bucket of water at the bottom of the fridge.

I'm personally not aware of any sort of catastrophic issues with the refrigeration components in Samsung refrigerators. LG had some major compressor issues for a while.

I would be comfortable with a non-smart Samsung fridge if I got it really cheap or it was already at the place I was living, but I'm also comfortable enough fixing appliances to fix the evap drain or the ice machine issue on them.

thanks for the info, where did you read about all this? is it on all models or just specific ones?

Mine has a bit of IoT but not a lot of the stupid poo poo pricier models have like display screens or w/e

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung...5868024#overlay

my icemaker is in the bottom freezer, so I'm not sure if it has the issues you mentioned or not

I looked at home depot's site, they only have eight 33" counter depth fridges in stainless steel

this one
a GE one which is about 400 more (I didn't like the appearance as I'm not big on handles)
a Cafe one that was 1000 more (just a fancier GE fridge)

the other five were brands I had never even heard of - Haier and Forno

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


So I live, as I may have mentioned, in a pretty rural area, and there aren't many contractors/gardeners/w'ev to start with. Add in post-COVID home sales and remodelings, and welp. I have a page in my book with all the people I need: gardener, HVAC, appliance repair, upholsterer, fence. And that isn't even all the contractors we need. In any case, every couple of weeks I sit down and call every number on the page. So far I have gotten exactly two callbacks, both from upholsterers who are too busy to do the job. Welcome to 2022. (Yes, I have multiple candidates for each job, except the appliance repair guy, who is apparently unique.)

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

actionjackson posted:

thanks for the info, where did you read about all this? is it on all models or just specific ones?

Mine has a bit of IoT but not a lot of the stupid poo poo pricier models have like display screens or w/e

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung...5868024#overlay

my icemaker is in the bottom freezer, so I'm not sure if it has the issues you mentioned or not

I looked at home depot's site, they only have eight 33" counter depth fridges in stainless steel

this one
a GE one which is about 400 more (I didn't like the appearance as I'm not big on handles)
a Cafe one that was 1000 more (just a fancier GE fridge)

the other five were brands I had never even heard of - Haier and Forno

Just a ton of internet research back in 2018 when I bought my current house, which is why I added the disclaimer.

If you're icemaker is in the freezer section I don't think that will cause you any problems. I'd think that model should be fairly problem free.

Haier is a Chinese company that bought GE Appliances back in 2016 and owns several other appliance brands. They're the largest appliance manufacturer in the world, but are still not a household name in the US. I have a chest freezer of theirs, it does its job.

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

skipdogg posted:


If you're icemaker is in the freezer section I don't think that will cause you any problems. I'd think that model should be fairly problem free.


what about the evap coil issue? it looks like that is what's behind the back panel?

Pollyanna
Mar 5, 2005

Milk's on them.


Arsenic Lupin posted:

So I live, as I may have mentioned, in a pretty rural area, and there aren't many contractors/gardeners/w'ev to start with. Add in post-COVID home sales and remodelings, and welp. I have a page in my book with all the people I need: gardener, HVAC, appliance repair, upholsterer, fence. And that isn't even all the contractors we need. In any case, every couple of weeks I sit down and call every number on the page. So far I have gotten exactly two callbacks, both from upholsterers who are too busy to do the job. Welcome to 2022. (Yes, I have multiple candidates for each job, except the appliance repair guy, who is apparently unique.)

Yeah this is what I mean when I say GCs are hard to get ahold of now, and has really informed my decisions to pass on places that needed too much work out the gate.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Just had our home inspection and only real big surprise is that it's apparently EIFS instead of real stucco.

Anybody have any experience with that? Inspector said he didn't see any immediate problems but that a third party EIFS specialty inspector would need to come in if we want some real info (but it's not required).

They just painted the outside of the house and redid the inside with a full renovation so I feel like if there *were* any tell-tale signs they'd be hidden for a bit.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

When was the house built and in what area? There was some major issues with EIFS a while back.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

skipdogg posted:

When was the house built and in what area? There was some major issues with EIFS a while back.

1982 and in the Raleigh-Durham Triangle area.

edit: Termite inspection came back fine

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 19:09 on May 17, 2022

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


BonoMan posted:

Just had our home inspection and only real big surprise is that it's apparently EIFS instead of real stucco.

Anybody have any experience with that? Inspector said he didn't see any immediate problems but that a third party EIFS specialty inspector would need to come in if we want some real info (but it's not required).
Do you know when the house was built? One particular company, Dryvit, was infamous in the '90s and settled a lawsuit in 2003. In North Carolina, the builders John Weiland Homes, D.R. Horton Construction, Pulte Home Corp. and Simonini Builders Inc were all sued, and IIRC many of the lost.

When EIFS goes bad, the wood frame of the house rots. This is an enormous risk, and I wouldn't be comfortable taking it without hiring an inspector. Bad installation (not installing adequate flashing, in particular) can guarantee later moisture problems.

e:f, b

Honestly, I wouldn't buy an EIFS house in North Carolina without an inspection. Charlotte and Wilmington, in particular, were riddled with bad houses. Another quote from that article up there: ""I'd say 98% of the EIFS-clad homes have moisture problems, ranging from minor to major," , coming from a guy who did stucco repair, so take it with a grain of salt.

son of edit: There were definitely synthetic stucco problems in Raleigh.

Arsenic Lupin fucked around with this message at 19:18 on May 17, 2022

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Pay for the EIFS inspection.

Water gets behind the EIFS and rots the wood of the house out, and depending on how bad it is, it can cost an enormous amount of money to fix.

The inspection is cheap peace of mind.

Was this a flipped house? How long has the current owner owned the house?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Honestly, I wouldn't buy an EIFS house in North Carolina without an inspection.

I'm not aware of any sure way to know with a nondestructive inspection, and one where you're drilling bunch of holes is not something prospective buyers are going to be able to have done. And the sellers would be crazy to allow it because somebody who doesn't know any better will buy the house without one.

Just don't buy it.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

skipdogg posted:

Pay for the EIFS inspection.

Water gets behind the EIFS and rots the wood of the house out, and depending on how bad it is, it can cost an enormous amount of money to fix.

The inspection is cheap peace of mind.

Was this a flipped house? How long has the current owner owned the house?

It was a rental for 12 years. The owner is a realtor who decided to do a full reno and sell since the market was hot.

We're definitely going to do an inspection, but like Motronic mentioned, it's destructive and we have to do it after we buy the house.

The catch? Our $30K in Due Diligence.

If we decide to walk away now, we lose $30K.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

BonoMan posted:

It was a rental for 12 years. The owner is a realtor who decided to do a full reno and sell since the market was hot.

We're definitely going to do an inspection, but like Motronic mentioned, it's destructive and we have to do it after we buy the house.

The catch? Our $30K in Due Diligence.

If we decide to walk away now, we lose $30K.

Did the seller misrepresent the exterior as being stucco and not EIFS or did you come to that conclusion? If it was falsely advertised maybe you can get out with your $30k.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Find a contingency to tank the deal.

EIFS should be considered a material defect.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

VelociBacon posted:

Did the seller misrepresent the exterior as being stucco and not EIFS or did you come to that conclusion? If it was falsely advertised maybe you can get out with your $30k.

I thought it just said "Stucco" but when I just went back and read it - it says "Synthetic Stucco"

Unfortunately my brain just read it as Stucco. Honestly not sure I would have even known that "Synthetic Stucco" was a warning sign since I have never heard of EIFS.

Our realtor didn't mention it either.

BonoMan fucked around with this message at 19:53 on May 17, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Have you realtor get this deal unwound and then fire them. Better yet hire a real estate attorney and have them do it, THEN fire you realtor.

I'm not kidding.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Wellllllll poo poo. Lemme see what I can do.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Motronic is not overreacting. I lived in NC during the '90s, and the damage done to houses by bad EIFS was horrific. I didn't realize the testing was destructive, but of course it would have to be. This is as much of a deal-breaker as outgassing blown-in insulation, or has that all outgassed by now?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Motronic is not overreacting. I lived in NC during the '90s, and the damage done to houses by bad EIFS was horrific. I didn't realize the testing was destructive, but of course it would have to be. This is as much of a deal-breaker as outgassing blown-in insulation, or has that all outgassed by now?

I'm very near a bunch of the Toll Brothers EIFS disasters. Several houses within a couple of miles from me were in such bad condition that the only financial reason they were repaired rather than completely torn down was storing the contents and paying for a place for the family to stay while a whole home was being rebuilt tipped the scales just over the edge to "fix it in place" (and let the owners suffer for months while this is going on).

So yes, the damage can be that extensive. They had to replace every framing member on the outside walls of these homes and sister joists/repair where the floors connected to them. While holding up the roof. While people were living there.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
Ok so small update. The little one-sheeter when you go to the open house definitely says "Stucco" and then the disclosure says "Synthetic Stucco" and I didn't notice. But again I didn't have the knowledge to even notice.

Two of my coworkers have wives or siblings that are lawyers so they're going to hook me up with a real estate lawyer.

skipdogg
Nov 29, 2004
Resident SRT-4 Expert

Man that's a bunch of red flags. You put down a honda accord worth of due diligence? The Carolina's are weird.

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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Motronic posted:

I'm very near a bunch of the Toll Brothers EIFS disasters. Several houses within a couple of miles from me were in such bad condition that the only financial reason they were repaired rather than completely torn down was storing the contents and paying for a place for the family to stay while a whole home was being rebuilt tipped the scales just over the edge to "fix it in place" (and let the owners suffer for months while this is going on).
My kids' day care person lived in a very fancy brand-new McMansion. Back in the '90s, it cost tens of thousands to repair the framing -- paid for by the developer -- and I can't imagine what it would be with modern construction prices, plus 40 years of possible damage as opposed to 2-3. It's unlikely that you'll be able to recoup the money from either the original builder or the stucco manufacturer, if either of them is even still in business.

I'm being really scary, and I'm sorry. But, just as a Stablok panel can burn your house down, an EIFS failure can destroy your house's frame. And you can replace a Stablok easily.

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