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Is there any reason not to use X1 instead of Afterburner if I have an EVGA card (the FTW3 monster with a third 8-pin)? Have to install it to set RGB anyway. I'm only playing at 1200p right now, but if I jump to 1440p or 4K I fully expect to notice this monster on my power bill.
Shumagorath fucked around with this message at 02:23 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 02:20
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bi crimes posted:The trickiest part of editing the curve was needing to look up the key combo to flatten out the top of the curve, as it wasn't explained in the video. All in all, took me about 5 minutes and was so worth it. I feel like you probably don't need this tip, but if you set a negative offset first, then edit that curve at one single lower voltage point, hitting apply in Afterburner after that automatically flattens the curve after that point for you without needing to do anything else:  Stock scores were: Time Spy - 18239 Port Royal - 12001 Fire Strike Ultra - 11731 ~5% better across the board, and correspondingly better in games. It also runs cooler. Kinda amazed me to get better performance and better thermals alike from reducing its power consumption, but in a situation where the chip's efficiency point isn't really dialed in at the factory settings I guess it makes sense. More voltage and non-steady boost clocks does not do better than less voltage and stable boost clocks when it can draw only the same amount of power. Other AIB cards that can use more wattage than stock can outperform it still, obviously, and go higher yet, in trade for more heat generation of course, but I'm working with what I'm working with and happy with my results  It reminds me of dialing in my 12900K for its best scores within my 190W power limit to be able to tame its heat with a NH-D15 - I end up getting better results at -0.055V than 190W but no reduced voltage, because more volts wasn't doing anything with wattage at the same restriction but more current apparently is. But, if I had a badass liquid loop on it with a massive radiator that could keep more heat under control, just letting it use more watts and correspondingly raising voltage would mean higher potential clocks and performance.As to the question of if other utilities will work the same, I honestly don't know - I used to use EVGA Precision when it was big but MSI Afterburner seems like it got better at some point between now and then and I've preferred it for years. But if it can do the same thing it should work the same, since nVidia seems to have made efforts to standardize how the various utilities handle overclocking including giving a generic auto-OC algorithm (that sucks) rather than each tool having its own preferred way to do it automatically. I've just had great results with MSI Afterburner and recommend it personally. Agreed fucked around with this message at 02:29 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 02:21
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Shumagorath posted:Is there any reason not to use X1 instead of Afterburner if I have an EVGA card? Have to install it to set RGB anyway. I found it less stable when it was brand new software, and I think had some issues with it not always starting with windows or something like that.
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May 17, 2022 02:22
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Precision X1's voltage tools were kinda lovely for a while but they've gotten better over time and are now generally on par with Afterburner, so I just use X1 now. Anyway, that video is interesting for showing just how much cooler your cards can run by undervolting, but I probably wouldn't accept a ~7% performance drop like the one shown in that video. Setting the clock speed to somewhere around 1900 MHz has been the sweet spot in my experience, with me being able to get some pretty low voltages (sub-900mV) with a small performance boost instead of a loss. Going any higher for whatever reason doesn't result in much extra performance on my 3080 Ti, so I stop there.
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May 17, 2022 02:40
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bi crimes posted:i wasn't going to RMA the card and didn't say it's not working as intended, but undervolting it made my room much more pleasant, smells less like hot electronics, using less power, and my fps in limsa lominsa in ffxiv (in 4k, probably weird and unoptimized but I play it a lot) jumped from low 40s to 70-80fps I truly cannot imagine what kind of monster rig it must take to get 70-80fps in Limsa Lominsa at 4k. Most of that game runs surprisingly well, but the sheer density of player characters idling around that aetheryte makes my fps feel like I just teleported into a black hole, not a city. I run like 40 fps there, and that's at 1440p. If I have neither an EVGA nor an MSI card, should I be looking at X1 or Afterburner to undervolt?
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May 17, 2022 03:17
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Unsinkabear posted:I truly cannot imagine what kind of monster rig it must take to get 70-80fps in Limsa Lominsa at 4k. Most of that game runs surprisingly well, but the sheer density of player characters idling around that aetheryte makes my fps feel like I just teleported into a black hole, not a city. I run like 40 fps there, and that's at 1440p. If I stand in most dense areas in limsa by the main aetheryte, it dips into the 60s. I get 144fps (my cap) in inns and other areas that don't have a lot of activity
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May 17, 2022 03:31
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I don’t like all this talk of undervoltage it goes against my nature as an overclocker. I paid for the whole card and I am going to use the whole card dammit. My house has a couple of 3080 TI‘s and here’s how we deal with it: On my wife’s rig She has three intake fans and two exhaust fans and they all plugged into a hub that plugs directly into her graphics card. If you have a 3080 or 3080 TI take a look you might actually have a four pin fan connector. She has a STRIX card and I have an EVGA card and we both have them but im not using mine. On my rig I have all of my case fans wired into a fan hub and I have that fan hub wired into my AIO. Instead of my AIO increasing the speed of just the exhaust fans it increases the speed of all of my fans. My radiator is set up as exhaust so cpu/gpu heat forces all my fans to ramp. It’s pretty funny when we end a gaming session and her whole rig is back down to silent in like 5-10 seconds and mine is sitting there just wailing like crazy because the water takes about minute to cool. Edit: temps House temp 73 to 75° F Gpu temps 75-76C spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:02 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 03:31
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I don't get more performance trying to overclock mine the old way because its power limit says "nah mate that's enough," for me the only way up is down. If you're in a position to crank watts, and cool all that cranked wattage, and actively cool your house too and not care about any of that or the power bill, dope man I'm not hating, but this generation has products that are temperature and power limited in ways I'm not used to from when my familiarity with OCing begins (I started overclocking cards back around the FX 5700 I owned and also OC'd the 6800 GT and 7600 cards I used later, then I got better at it with my 280 or 580 I guess and really started paying attention to how to get the most my cards could do, and I helped write a guide for it in the venerable GPU thread here when Kepler rolled around - quaint poo poo now honestly, those were the days). Though it may not seem right compared to the old ways, there are cases where it is really possible to get better performance undervolting and taking advantage of a particular chip's superior efficiency versus just moving sliders up. Not going to be the most performant option in every scenario but it's especially useful in power and temperature limited scenarios, and I personally think that it's really cool that it works as well as it does. It's a testament to the well engineered boost algorithms that chips deploy these days. Agreed fucked around with this message at 04:05 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 03:53
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Putting the rigs in a living room vs an office was a game changer room temperature wise. Its still averaging a high of 72 in California where I live so yeah that does help too. I haven’t moved any sliders up other then fan speed. Colder card = faster card as far as I know so I figured I should make them cold. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 04:13 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 04:10
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If you haven't changed any settings except fan speed, it is actually possible that you too could find an undervolt which increases your performance while keeping the same power usage at maximum draw and reduced power usage in other scenarios Nothing says you have to, but if you ever want to play around with it, doesn't take long to set up and you can quickly appreciate the results. It's worth the time, IMO, to get at worst identical performance but better thermals, at best superior performance and better thermals. Writing my list o' cards up there got me curious. Power draw for my GPUs for the whole time I've been using discrete GPUs went like this, going by my best efforts remembering what I had when: Voodoo 2 - 15W, this one spoiled me because it showed me just how much nicer a discrete GPU is versus the ATI Rage 3D motherboard-mounted chip I had prior to this. GeForce 256 - hard to find precise power draw, must have been low though GeForce 440 MX - hard to find precise power draw, again no way it was very high due to limitations of the slot FX 5700 - 25W <--- first card I ever posted about in SH/SC, incidentally! 6800 GT - 67W 7600 GT - 40-50W (this was an emergency replacement from a local store when my 6800 GT ate poo poo suddenly in college and I had to get a card to replace it ASAP, performance was roughly on par and I could afford it that day so in it went) Radeon 4870x2 - 286W - I had this very briefly, it was so freaking noisy and hot, sent it back as the GTX 280 price drop arrived because it was still in its return window GTX 280 - 236W GTX 580 - 244W GTX 680 - 195W GTX 780 Ti - 250W RTX 2070 - 175W, power slider can get it to the low 200 range RTX 3070 Ti - 320W RTX 3080 12GB (MSI Ventus model) - 350W I really want to stop cranking the watts there - I am worried it won't be possible, the way things are going. But, when each generation is adding 60%+ additional performance at a given product tier, maybe losing 5-7% off the top in exchange for dropping 100W+ isn't such a bad trade. They push the envelope as much as possible to be the fastest in the world if they can, it's great for marketing and I get that, but I'd love it if performance improvements were tuned as much around efficiency improvements as just raw perf at continuously higher power draw. Agreed fucked around with this message at 06:36 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 04:33
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spunkshui posted:I don’t like all this talk of undervoltage it goes against my nature as an overclocker. I paid for the whole card and I am going to use the whole card dammit. Undervolting is a form of overclocking in a way. Instead of trying to get higher clocks at stock voltage or higher, you're lowering the voltage and attempting to get higher clocks than that voltage on the stock curve would allow. The end result is that you often increase performance while undervolting while consuming less power. I consider this "using the whole card" too because you're still squeezing something extra from the card, just in the other direction. Meanwhile, I've tried to do traditional overclocking and have had zero luck with my EVGA 3080 Ti FTW3 Ultra. I have at most gotten 1% extra performance from my card by overclocking compared to undervolting while consuming 30% more power and letting my system run two to three times as loud. No thanks. I'm also paying for an efficient cooling solution and a GPU that can accept lower voltages, and I'd like to get the most of that. edit: Wait, so you aren't overclocking or changing any of the stock settings besides the fans? You are literally getting less out of your cards than the people who are undervolting. I mean, i understand not wanting to mess with the voltages and clock speeds and poo poo and just leaving everything at stock, but that's not "using the whole card" lol Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 05:28 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 05:24
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Undervolting is a form of overclocking in a way. Instead of trying to get higher clocks at stock voltage or higher, you're lowering the voltage and attempting to get higher clocks than that voltage on the stock curve would allow. The end result is that you often increase performance while undervolting while consuming less power. I consider this "using the whole card" too because you're still squeezing something extra from the card, just in the other direction. Yeah this was my reaction as well. Also there are so many better ways of keying your fan curves directly to GPU or Case temp but I'm not going to sit here and tell a goon what to do I guess.
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May 17, 2022 05:43
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:In this case, I would go higher, though to know how worth doing this is, we'd have to know both the performance level of the 4070 and how CPU-heavy future games will be, neither of which are certain. If you believe the rumors, the 4070 will at minimum match the 3090 Ti (as the 3070 did with the 2080 Ti). If this ends up happening, then I could see the 12400 potentially letting you down. The 12400 is a CPU that can handle the 3070 just fine, but there's a reason why you see people recommending the 12600K or 12700 (K or non-K) for the 3080 and up. So, if you don't want to feel compelled to buy a new CPU in a year's time, I'd just go with the 12600K out of the gate. That should be more future proof. Ordered both the G.Skill and the 12600K, along with the rest of the list. I can't thank you enough for all the guidance. We'll see how long it takes to actually get my hands on an MSRP 4070 (I'll be amazed if I can get lightning to strike twice tbh), but I'm happy to know I'll be ready to go with no rebuild required whenever opportunity knocks. Also super stoked to get this together and see that Lancool 215 front panel vomiting RGB all over my living room. It's going to be a great environmental signal that I can toggle on and off as I transition between game and work time.
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May 17, 2022 06:05
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:Undervolting is a form of overclocking in a way. Instead of trying to get higher clocks at stock voltage or higher, you're lowering the voltage and attempting to get higher clocks than that voltage on the stock curve would allow. The end result is that you often increase performance while undervolting while consuming less power. I consider this "using the whole card" too because you're still squeezing something extra from the card, just in the other direction. Oh... you are totally right that could make it run faster but you risk having less stability by doing that though. I'm not interested in tweaking what is already phenomenal performance but ill get there if I'm ever unhappy. I just noticed a bunch of people having GPU heat issues and wanted to share some ways how you can ramp system fans with GPU temps vs CPU temps. Its also really easy to keep a computer dead silent this way because small CPU intensive tasks wont make the system fans move up and down. edit: You can also do this with other software or sensors but its definitely worth looking into if your case fans dont ramp while gaming and the GPU is toasty. spunkshui fucked around with this message at 07:42 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 07:36
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spunkshui posted:Oh... you are totally right that could make it run faster but you risk having less stability by doing that though. I'm not interested in tweaking what is already phenomenal performance but ill get there if I'm ever unhappy. Sounds like someone doesn't actually want to use the whole card 
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May 17, 2022 07:42
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CAPTAIN CAPSLOCK posted:Sounds like someone doesn't actually want to use the whole card My resolution/settings are all cranked and I'm monitor limited at just about 144hz with the most intensive things I'm playing. It would be pretty silly to overclock it now but I have no doubt this card will struggle eventually and then ill get there. I keep hearing rumors that the next cards are somehow going to also be monstrous performance leaps again which is nuts if you have followed GPU power over time.
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May 17, 2022 07:57
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Not undervolting Ampere is going to maximize power usage, which on its own does not have any real benefits except that it works and you don't have to mess with it. I have to imagine the stock profiles were designed around almost worst case scenario chips, and then given a little leeway beyond that to make it so that anyone who buys an Ampere card can be pretty much guaranteed a certain level of performance, regardless of power usage or temps. After all, nVidia and AIBs can guarantee a given level of power delivery and they can guarantee a given level of cooling capability, but they can't guarantee that every chip will undervolt identically & they aren't going to take the time to bin them for that when the average overclocker wants to add MORE power and INCREASE the boost frequency, not dial in the efficiency point. Listen, nobody is going to force you to take any steps at all, and if you're happy with your product and what it does, that's great. But it isn't "not using the whole card," and it isn't unstable, those are both mischaracterizations. If you do ever decide that you'd like to get the same level of performance while reducing power usage, or get a modest boost to your stock performance while reducing overall power draw in most scenarios and at most keeping it the same under full load for that modest boost, there is a way I think undervolting will take off even more next generation, since higher end parts will be using so much wattage but offer so much performance it might become sensible for more people to try to reduce the power usage to make them easier to cool. But maybe they'll just ship with water cooling in the higher power draw SKUs and enthusiasts will switch to 30W case fans and blow the heat out like a turbine, I dunno. Agreed fucked around with this message at 16:09 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 16:02
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I'll probably undervolt when I make the jump to higher than 1200p, as right now X1 shows me barely cracking 1000mV and the card hits a firm ceiling at 74ºC with an allowed maximum of 83ºC. I've got enough mechanical tinkering on my list right now that I don't need to add my GPU.
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May 17, 2022 16:12
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Finally looking at upgrading from my ancient computer built back in 2011. I don't do a ton of gaming - Overwatch and Dwarf Fortress are about as intensive as it gets. Here's what I'm looking at keeping/upgrading: CPU: Intel Core i5-12400 Alder Lake 2.5GHz Six-Core LGA 1700 ($140 after bundle discount at my local Micro Center) CPU Cooler: Intel stock cooler with above... I am assuming this will be fine as I won't be overclocking Motherboard: Gigabyte B660M DS3H DDR4 Intel LGA 1700 microATX ($120 @ Micro Center) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 PC4-25600 CL16 ($82 open box at Micro Center) Storage: Samsung 980 Pro SSD 500GB M.2 NVMe Interface PCIe Gen 4x4 ($110 at Micro Center) I like poo poo to boot up quick and I want an SSD that will last a long time because I seem to go a decade between upgrades (my current SSD is a 64gb one from 2011!) Storage: i have storage drives Video Card: i have a GTX 1060 6gb that I bought for like $200 in 2016, hooray Case: existing meh mATX case, it has a couple fans that still work fine Power Supply: current power supply is Antec EarthWatts EA-650 GREEN 650W, assuming this will be enough Total cost: $452 I could do the AMD Ryzen 5 5600 Vermeer/ASRock B550M Pro4 instead, but it would only save $15. I don't really care about upgradability as again I don't think I will upgrade again for probably another decade. Anything major I'm missing here?
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May 17, 2022 19:49
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Man_of_Teflon posted:Finally looking at upgrading from my ancient computer built back in 2011. I don't do a ton of gaming - Overwatch and Dwarf Fortress are about as intensive as it gets. My only comment is that I think $110 is a pretty high price to pay for a 500GB SSD. You can get 1TB drives for $80 - $90. The 980 Pro is overkill for home users. It doesn't really offer any meaningful performance uplift for day-to-day tasks. It won't make windows boot faster or your games load quicker than a cheaper drive like the SN570. It will transfer files more quickly, but that's probably the biggest difference, and it's not a huge one. If you really want a drive with faster R/W speeds, then the SN770 is the same price at the moment for twice as much capacity. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 02:38 on May 18, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 21:33
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My PC from 2015 (or 2016?) is restarting whenever I play games now (might be PSU or something wrong with motherboard) so I guess I'm going to be building a new one in the next couple months, was looking to go with this stuff. If anyone has any better alternative parts I'm all ears, want to keep it under $1k total. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: Intel Core i5-12600K 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($274.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Scythe Fuma 2 Rev.B 39.44 CFM CPU Cooler ($65.98 @ Amazon) Motherboard: MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($194.99 @ Amazon) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory ($65.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Blue SN550 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($94.75 @ Amazon) Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB SC ULTRA GAMING Video Card (Purchased For $0.00) Case: Phanteks Eclipse P300A Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: SeaSonic FOCUS Plus Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($139.00 @ B&H) Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($7.96 @ Amazon) Case Fan: ARCTIC P12 56.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($7.96 @ Amazon) Total: $921.61 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-05-17 16:53 EDT-0400
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May 17, 2022 21:56
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CPU comical overkill when paired with a 2060 super but i mean at 1080 high framerates that thing is going to be a demon. you could drop to a 12400 and a B660 to save cost, or even if you wanted try and price out a ryzen 5600 and B550 if you want to save more and they'd both be better pairings by some metrics but it's not going to hurt anything.
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May 17, 2022 22:01
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I might just go down to a 12400 & B660 then, still kind of put off of Ryzen if I'm unlucky enough to get a mobo that isn't updated.
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May 17, 2022 22:13
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KingShiro posted:I might just go down to a 12400 & B660 then, still kind of put off of Ryzen if I'm unlucky enough to get a mobo that isn't updated. For a b550 chipset mobo that stopped being an issue at least a year ago
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May 17, 2022 22:17
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Cool, I’ll probably go with Ryzen then.
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May 17, 2022 22:53
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I've got a Ryzen 5 3600, and was wondering if it's at all worth it to upgrade to a new AM4 CPU for gaming now that it's on it's last gen. Looking at the 7 5800X3D since I have some cash to burn, but that might be overkill for my setup. Current setup: CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Mobo: ASRock X570M Pro4 GPU: RTX 2070 Super Founders Edition Memory: CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 3600 (PC4 28800) PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G1+ Storage: 2x INLAND 1TB PREMIUM NVME SSD CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9a-AM4 Edit: Including the CPU Cooler would be good for this CPU discussion. Terminus fucked around with this message at 02:34 on May 18, 2022 |
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May 18, 2022 02:31
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If someone can just give a quick yay/nay on the builds and what I should do for a 2nd graphics card that would be great, I am thinking I might try sa-mart for an older card as the newer cards become more availableSilento Boborachi posted:Need a look at two builds I plan on making when upgrading my current build and moving the old parts over to the kids first computer (so they can play minecraft and hogwarts legacy when it comes out). Only things moving to the new build are the storage, graphics card, and monitor. The main question is, do I move my 1060 over to the new build and get my kids a basic one or get a better one for me and give them the 1060? I have about $400 left that I need to spend on a graphics card, plus possibly replacing the PSU going to the kids build, it's almost 9 years old at this point. Could get a cheaper monitor for the kids to free up money as well.
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May 18, 2022 02:34
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So I was catching up on this thread and saw the discussion about undervolting but I don't really get it. The advantage is better temps (and subsequently fan speed) for slightly worse performance, is that it? Is it something that's generally recommended to do or is it only in special circumstances? Basically I'm wondering if I should do it for my Zotac 3060Ti build if the benefits are substantial.
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May 18, 2022 02:44
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Artelier posted:So I was catching up on this thread and saw the discussion about undervolting but I don't really get it. The advantage is better temps (and subsequently fan speed) for slightly worse performance, is that it? Is it something that's generally recommended to do or is it only in special circumstances? For 3000 series cards, it's more like better temps, and less power consumption, for no noticeable impact on performance at all.
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May 18, 2022 02:46
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Neo_Crimson posted:For 3000 series cards, it's more like better temps, and less power consumption, for no noticeable impact on performance at all. Thanks! Found an online guide and did it already, now to test it out over the next week or so
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May 18, 2022 03:02
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Tonight I eyeballed the construction of a custom magnetic dust filter and it fits exactly like I wanted it to on my Phanteks P500A DRGB case's front mesh. The mesh front has small enough holes to keep big particles and pet hair out, but not small enough to really be a true impediment to small dust particles. I priced a premade magnetic filter from Demcifilter and ended up saving $30 by making my own: Side view of my build: 
Agreed fucked around with this message at 22:07 on May 18, 2022 |
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May 18, 2022 06:34
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Terminus posted:I've got a Ryzen 5 3600, and was wondering if it's at all worth it to upgrade to a new AM4 CPU for gaming now that it's on it's last gen. Looking at the 7 5800X3D since I have some cash to burn, but that might be overkill for my setup. if you have money to burn the 5800X3D is a very very powerful gaming chip that has advantages in particular titles due to unusual cache, look them up and see if it's the titles you play. it will be a jump (i suspect the 5800X3D will be the most desirable AM4 socket chip in the end) and you'd expect a lot better performance in CPU limited tasks, but a 3600 is still a very good chip and AM5 is around the corner, although that would be a full rebuild. if you are a mmo guy and are constantly getting lovely frames cause a million models or something it will be a significant boost. if you're a turn based gamer it should reduce CPU thinking time by a bit, and it will improve 1 and .1 percent lows and as such stuttering by a bit.
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May 18, 2022 12:41
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2TB Gen 4 Sabrent drive for $170 5000/4400 MB/s read/write speeds
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May 18, 2022 13:27
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That makes it cheaper than a 570 of the same size, which seems like an insane deal. Am I missing something?
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May 18, 2022 15:19
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No, it's a well regarded drive, nice and fast if not lightning fast by 2022 gen4 standards, at a lower price than usual. Amazon will sell you the same drive for $239.99 today. If that deal had been available when I built I'd have three of 'em in my PC right now I ended up with 3x Hynix Gold P31 2TB drives, which are really outstanding Gen3s, and an Inland Professional 2TB drive which is more middle of the road performance wise but which runs incredibly cool and doesn't need a heat sink to keep its max performance under load (doesn't even seem to mind running behind my GPU, which exhausts enough to cool 350W). I aimed for maximum write endurance and long warranties - Gen4 performance was not a priority, as I'd only ever used SATA SSDs previously and these were already tremendous dramatic steps up, so I saved some money. But that price is way too good on the Sabrent Rockets, I'd have got in on some for sure. Edit: Hey, the Rocket 4 Plus also has a huge discount right now, and it's got closer to class leading performance - https://www.newegg.com/sabrent-2tb-...&quicklink=true Agreed fucked around with this message at 15:52 on May 18, 2022 |
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May 18, 2022 15:29
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Silento Boborachi posted:If someone can just give a quick yay/nay on the builds and what I should do for a 2nd graphics card that would be great, I am thinking I might try sa-mart for an older card as the newer cards become more available There are no system requirements posted yet, but I'm under the impression that hogwarts legacy isn't going to be super easy to run. It looks pretty advanced, and I wouldn't be surprised if the CPU you're using and your 1060 aren't good enough. So I guess you'll probably have to get a better GPU and let them play the game on your PC. The 1060 just isn't doing it anymore in some of the newest/fanciest-looking AAA games--it is a six year old midrange gpu, after all, soon to be three generations behind. For your build, you can and should save money by getting a cheaper motherboard and cooler. The z690 chipset only offers more I/O and m.2 slots generally if you're pairing it with a 12400, so if you don't need that, then I'd go with a cheaper B660 motherboard, such as the MSI Pro B660M-A, an inexpensive but solid motherboard (or the full-ATX version for $20 more). And this is the Fuma 2 you want, or you can use a cooler like the Thermalright Peerless Assassin for much cheaper ($37 after discount). Both are honestly probably overkill and will be very quiet with a 12400. This should hopefully save you enough money to alleviate some of the budget concerns. The 1080p GPU I'm recommending is the 6600 XT these days because at $355 - $370 it offers the most bang for your buck (lowest dollars per frame), and it should be good at that resolution for a while to come. You should have enough left over after those earlier cuts to replace that PSU too, which I think you should do. I'd recommend going with the cheaper, semi-modular Seasonic Focus Plus Gold, which is currently on sale for a good price: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/qn7v6h/seasonic-focus-gold-650w-80-gold-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-650fm (edit: A sale on this ended just as I posted this, figures. I'll recommend the Thermaltake Toughpower GF1 then, which has gotten good reviews for the price) If you want to explore the used GPU market instead, then I'd start by trying to find a good deal on a 2060. ~$250 is around where I'd start considering that worth it. edit: there are some further cuts you can make too if you want. The 12400F is $34 cheaper if you don't think you'll need the integrated graphics (though it can come in handy sometimes). This set of memory is a bit cheaper than the stuff you selected. The NZXT H510 Flow is a solid airflow case for the price that comes with an extra fan over the Meshify C while being $10 cheaper. The Corsair MX500 is a highly-regarded SATA SSD that's a bit cheaper than the WD model you're putting into the other rig. You can get the price pretty low with these optimizations, and I think you should consider spending the leftover money on an NVMe SSD like the WD SN570. The extra speed can make a pretty nice difference in your day-to-day computing. Or maybe even buy one of these, swap it out for one of your PC's sata drives, and give that drive to the kids? Then you can upgrade to an NVMe without spending extra. I think you'll appreciate the difference it makes. Bumping up the memory to 32GB can also be considered for future proofing purposes, though you can always go with 16 now and upgrade later when you think you might need to. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 22:48 on May 18, 2022 |
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May 18, 2022 15:52
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Agreed posted:Edit: Hey, the Rocket 4 Plus also has a huge discount right now, and it's got closer to class leading performance - https://www.newegg.com/sabrent-2tb-...&quicklink=true Looks like it's 40% faster read speeds and 55% faster write for 30% more money. So arguably a better deal on paper, but do any of us actually need that much speed?
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May 18, 2022 16:56
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Unsinkabear posted:I'm finally ready to pull the trigger on my build update, and in a bit of a hurry to do so. This mobo price seems too low to stay put, and I'd like to get this stuff ordered in time to build on my birthday. Thank you everyone for putting up with my neverending trickle of questions and helping me get to this point. This CPU/Mobo/cooler combo for price to performance is excellent and I'm probably gonna snag it for a build for a family member.
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May 18, 2022 17:53
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Silento Boborachi posted:If someone can just give a quick yay/nay on the builds and what I should do for a 2nd graphics card that would be great, I am thinking I might try sa-mart for an older card as the newer cards become more available Save some money on other parts of your build and put more money into your new graphics card, it was only less than a month ago that a gpu could be up to half of the build cost. Used market is constantly in flux but I think it's difficult to find cost-competitive used cards right now. Since you're getting a GPU you could get a 12400F to save $40. You don't need a top of the range cooler for this, the $37 Thermalright the other guy recommends is fine, or going all the way down to the $20 Deepcool Gammaxx 400 still kicks the poo poo out of the stock cooler the only caveat being you need to contact Deepcool for free LGA 1700 mounting hardware. That's $110 saved right there. I'd also take the B660 motherboard suggestion, there are few features on the Z690 that you will benefit from. Now with $550 in hand, you can actually buy a 6700 XT for less than $500 these days, which is competitive with the 6600 XT price-performance wise especially since I can only find $385 at cheapest for the 6600 XT. In the 6700 XT's price range the Nvidia equivalent is the 3060 Ti, currently as low as $550. Unless you need Nvidia's featureset or plan on playing games with ray tracing the better deal is probably the cheaper AMD cards.
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May 18, 2022 18:11
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I forgot to link the 6600 XT lol. It's $375 at Amazon with a $20 mail-in rebate: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BK8NCPB/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 I also updated my post with other suggestions. I think going higher than the 6600 XT may end up not being worthwhile since the OP is limited by their monitors' resolution and refresh rate. Even the 6600XT is going to be overkill for a lot of things (though it will be put to task in the really heavy games like cyberpunk). The 6700 XT or higher can be worthwhile if you're willing to upgrade to a 1440p monitor, or even just a high-refresh 1080p one. Actually, you'll probably want to use the high-refresh one for your own rig and let the kids have the 60hz one, especially if you're giving them a 1060. And at that point, you can upgrade to 1440p 165Hz in order to get the most out of a newer GPU, but I've sorta lost track of the budget here. 6600XT + a 1080p monitor instead is a solid economical choice. Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 18:19 on May 18, 2022 |
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May 18, 2022 18:16
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