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kastein posted:Jeeeeeeeezus From the same country that brought the innovative concept of "coolant filling up the tail lights" to the automotive world.
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May 13, 2022 18:27
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Probably the dumbest car thing I've ever done was in high school trying to jump my '66 Bel-Air with someone's 4th gen Camaro and I accidentally hooked the cables up backwards. Luckily the only result was that now two people needed a jump. My dad actually did the backwards terminals thing once when he accidentally got a new battery for his '69 Chevelle with reverse (or not?) terminals instead of the correct ones. Didn't work, but also didn't seem to actually harm anything. I guess it makes sense since I don't think there's a single PN junction in the entire drat car besides the alternator.
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May 13, 2022 20:25
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spent afternoon cleaning off the fire retardant from the carb! fusible went off so fast the fire sense kicked in. doesn't look too bad, just more work on an already disabled vehicle. it's a Dodge Rampage so parts are surprisingly easy to get. learned some real good lessons and just feel more humbled than anything.
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May 14, 2022 03:04
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Started piecing the KPower stuff onto the motor, figured I'd test fit the manifold and header just to see. BRZ drive by wire throttle body goes onto the KPower intake manifold with an adapter. Decided to just get a set of Injector Dynamics 1050x since the ones the motor came with were disgusting, I intend on running it on E85, and it'll eventually get a built motor anyway. Can't put the motor into the car yet since I was sent the wrong water neck and it sits drat near against the firewall.   
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May 14, 2022 03:49
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Won’t be long until Vtec kicks in bro.
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May 14, 2022 03:53
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 I want a thread. With details. Honda powered track BRZ is my jam.
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May 14, 2022 03:55
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BigPaddy posted:Won’t be long until Vtec kicks in bro. I hope so, I'd intended to be done by now   honda whisperer posted:
Been pretty overwhelmed time wise with a bunch of stuff lately, I will see what I can do. 
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May 14, 2022 04:27
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honda whisperer posted:
I see ideas for when my engine explodes too.
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May 14, 2022 05:15
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Motronic posted:From the same country that brought the innovative concept of "coolant filling up the tail lights" to the automotive world. They knew no one would ever remember to refill their own blinker fluid and made it automatic
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May 14, 2022 07:03
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Old carb tank out new EFI tank in. Wired up the Walbro and ran the lines to the front from the tank. Put the hood back on, tightened up the engine mounts then the sun started peaking over and bearing the curse of my Irish ancestors started to get burnt so packed up for until later. One thing to note is that when people say the later EFI tank fits in a square body what they mean is it will bolt in but the filler neck is the wrong size so go get the 88 and up filler neck hose. Hoping the rest of the weekend I can get the headers on, bolt them back onto the exhaust and start wiring and plumbing the sniper and maybe even see if it will fire up.
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May 14, 2022 21:22
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I hate it when tribal knowledge like that is incomplete because they don't mention the ancillary stuff you also need to modify, replace, delete, or outright hack to make the "just bolts in" mod possible. I've had any number of people tell me the Dakota tank "just bolts into" a Comanche when doing a 97-01 conversion exactly like the suggestion you were given but no one mentioned that you have to cap off the factory fill ports and hack new holes in and then self tapper screw some flanges on in the right place. I'm just glad your "just bolts in" mod went fairly smoothly and that I found this out before buying parts for my "just bolts in" mod. Think you'll make drag week?
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May 14, 2022 23:38
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Unless something is wrong with the refresh I did to the engine I should be good for Power Tour. By the time it is done it will have the engine. Trans, suspension, brakes, cooling, ac/heat, wheels/tires, steering and most of the wiring gone through which means the rear end or driveshaft will gently caress me. Edit: and yes the so called “expert knowledge” is pretty funny. All the people who say you need to have the valve guides milled down to run 480 lift with Vortec heads who then explode if you point out offset keepers exist to get 520 lift if you want it only to be shouted down as not knowing what I am talking about was greater than the zero one would hope. GM just threw these things together and expected them to be scrapped in 10 years so they didn’t care about how easy it is to change the engine mounts or replace AC parts. So I don’t feel bad about throwing things back together as it won’t be worse than when it rolled out the factory. Edit 2: forgot to mention that as soon as I dropped the old tank all the rubber lines for the vent and feed just collapsed into dust as if they had drunk from the wrong grail at the end of The Last Crusade. Glad I decided to do the tank as I know they would have failed somewhere along the way. BigPaddy fucked around with this message at 00:14 on May 15, 2022 |
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May 15, 2022 00:03
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BlackMK4 posted:I hope so, I'd intended to be done by now Hell yeah. Full Collapse posted:I see ideas for when my engine explodes too. It really feels like a matter of when, not if, doesn't it? kastein posted:I hate it when tribal knowledge like that is incomplete because they don't mention the ancillary stuff you also need to modify, replace, delete, or outright hack to make the "just bolts in" mod possible. I've had any number of people tell me the Dakota tank "just bolts into" a Comanche when doing a 97-01 conversion exactly like the suggestion you were given but no one mentioned that you have to cap off the factory fill ports and hack new holes in and then self tapper screw some flanges on in the right place. I'm just glad your "just bolts in" mod went fairly smoothly and that I found this out before buying parts for my "just bolts in" mod. So many parts or common mods seem like they were designed on an already modded car. It makes sense, you're probably going to have coilovers on the car you design brake ducts for. You'll probably only sell them to people who have installed coilovers too. Mix that with broken tinypic or whatever dead image hosting site and I don't even know where I'm going with this but yes. I'm in violent agreement with you. Hey fastbrakes, when your website says in all caps FOR SI ONLY and FOR NON SI maybe specify you mean 99-00 Si when shits listed 88-00. Yeah I guess everyone was swapping knuckles left and right but gently caress spell it out.
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May 15, 2022 03:43
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 Busy morning. Plumbed the fuel feed and return, installed the headers but I am going to have an exhaust shop go through that all just to make sure there are no leaks when it goes for an alignment. Installed the sniper and wired it up. It turns on and I was able to run the wizard to do the base map. Radiator in and plumbed as well so need to fill it with gas and coolant and it should light off. Need to install the app for the distributor and set that up as well. Once it is running I will have to go back and clean up the wiring of course but won’t to cut it back before I know it works and how I am going to route it.
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May 15, 2022 19:56
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Curious to hear how you like the Sniper. I've heard nothing but good things about the Holley stuff for ease of use
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May 15, 2022 20:30
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Got my cousin's turbo mounted and most of the stuff in. Just have to figure out the downpipe and vacuum routing. Dropping my car off at the tuner tomorrow. Hoping to have a dyno sheet by next week. I'm nervous that it's going to underperform.
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May 16, 2022 01:17
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So I recently sold my 49' chevrolet as it was just sitting and I wanted to focus more on my truck. So I FINALLY got exhaust put on the stupid thing as it had been running open headers for a long time. Now it has dual flowmaster super 10s. So its definitely still loud but nothing like it was before. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9Umd-ZLb74 I also went over the whole truck with grey scotch brite and I also wet sanded with 1200 grit on the hood and roof. Since they were basically just rust. Then I applied some patina sauce and the definitely looks the best its ever looked. I also finally ordered window seals and regulators for both doors. I've basically just been using vice grips to roll down the drivers side window since I had it. I also replaced the drivers side vent window since it was just a piece of plexiglass.  Next up was wheels and tires. Its had the stock wheels on it and random tires on it for years and years now. So I finally ordered some adult size wheels for it and real tires. The rears are 15x10 rally wheels with cooper radial GTs on them and the fronts are 15x8s with the same style tires. So now its on 275s in the back and 255s in the front. I still need to get trim rings for them though.  Of course right before I started doing all this, some rear end in a top hat backed into the drivers side rear and smashed the rear corner. I was walking the dogs and came back to shattered plastic and my truck pushed into the curb. Obviously some kind of box truck and they just drove off without leaving me anything. So the truck is NOT getting parked on the street in front of my house anymore.  Thankfully a friend of mine had a friend that works as a sheet metal guy at Mercury Charlies and was willing to help me out for basically nothing. He was able to more or less completely fix it in less then 2 hours. The scratches and a bit of denting I don't mind since this is a farm truck and has plenty of dents and scratches. But I need to be able to put a tail light back in it.   I decided to fix the stupid seat as well since it had some cheapo cover on it that had been ripping on the drivers side. I ordered a new cover and this was far and away the hardest thing I have done yet on the truck. My hands hurt for days after pulling on the new cover and getting the hog rings on. But man it makes the truck look a million times better.  Finally the motor has to get replaced. It currently has a 307 with a summit cam, long tube headers, edelbrock carb and mainfold that I put on it. But its garbage and makes like maybe 200 at the crank. So I found a 4 bolt main 350 that was already over bored 40. It was just a short block so no heads or cam, which was fine since I didn't want those things. I broke the block down and saw that the cam bearings, rod bearings, and crank bearings were pretty much all wore out big time. This wasn't a huge deal since I had planned to build a 383 so all that stuff is going to the recycler anyways. So the block went the machine shop and got new cam bearings, bored 60 over, and clearanced for a stroker crank. I was back and forth about what heads I wanted for it, but I found a good seat of double hump 461 heads so I decided to go with those for now. Later on I plan on going to a good seat of CNC'd dart heads. But I stripped the heads and lapped the valves. I also took them to the machine shop to get them milled and check over. They verified they weren't cracked and the guides were good. So I painted everything today, even polished the casting marks before I cleared the motor.   So now I'm waiting on a rotating assembly for the block. Then new valve springs, cam, and lifters. I'm probably going to take the manifold and carb off the other motor for now. Later on I might go to a single plane intake manifold and a better carb.
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May 16, 2022 02:50
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Valt posted:Next up was wheels and tires. Its had the stock wheels on it and random tires on it for years and years now. So I finally ordered some adult size wheels for it and real tires. The rears are 15x10 rally wheels with cooper radial GTs on them and the fronts are 15x8s with the same style tires. So now its on 275s in the back and 255s in the front. I still need to get trim rings for them though. it seems you have made a mistake and mounted your tires the wrong way round  motor looks good though. not interested in going vortec, keeping it old school instead?
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May 16, 2022 04:12
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Raluek posted:it seems you have made a mistake and mounted your tires the wrong way round I’m not sure what you mean wrong way round. It’s got wider tires in the rear. Going vortec would mean I have to change at least my intake manifold and a bunch of machine work to get them to do what I want. When I’m ready for the dart heads I can always sell the double humps for decent money.
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May 16, 2022 04:16
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Valt posted:I’m not sure what you mean wrong way round. It’s got wider tires in the rear. i mean the cooper cobra has white letters on one side, but you have em mounted in! unthinkable! (lol) yeah the vortec is more work, but they are also cheap and the best factory iron head. what intake/cam/valvetrain stuff do you have planned?
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May 16, 2022 05:17
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Raluek posted:i mean the cooper cobra has white letters on one side, but you have em mounted in! unthinkable! (lol) Im probably just going to use the intake / carb I have now. I really want to run a roller cam but I’m trying not spend a million dollars. So I will likely end up with another summit cam in the 500 lift range. There 307 has a summit cam and lifters and I’ve been satisfied with it.
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May 16, 2022 05:34
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Valt posted:Im probably just going to use the intake / carb I have now. I really want to run a roller cam but I’m trying not spend a million dollars. So I will likely end up with another summit cam in the 500 lift range. There 307 has a summit cam and lifters and I’ve been satisfied with it. ah yeah that's another advantage of the vortec stuff, factory roller is your block an 86+ that has the bosses in the lifter valley for the spider? if so, you can get the dogbones and spider from a junkyard L31, throw in some new LS7 lifters, and cam of your choice, for not a ton of money
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May 16, 2022 06:06
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Only things with vortec heads on a non vortec block are: Coolant bypass from water pump to intake is external Different intake manifold Center bolt valve covers I recently picked up a complete vortec and did a LT4 Hot Cam, ls7 lifters, ls6 springs and offset keepers and hopefully will have it running this week to see how to goes. I love the patina on that truck and wish mine was similar but someone repainted it once upon a time so just have to wait for the sun to do it again
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May 16, 2022 13:19
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Raluek posted:ah yeah that's another advantage of the vortec stuff, factory roller This is a older 4 bolt main block and has no bosses for a spider. In any case I would not want to put junkyard stuff in this motor since everything is going to be new at this point. I'm getting a two piece timing chain cover so that I can change the cam in the truck without having to take the stupid timing chain cover off. I'm probably going to start with a flat tappet and save up for a roller cam and lifters.
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May 16, 2022 15:04
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Raluek posted:ah yeah that's another advantage of the vortec stuff, factory roller What the poo poo are these dog bones and spiders? Is that some poo poo that makes the block stiffer? Ninja edit: I know that cast iron is already pretty drat stiff, but maybe for like mega hp applications it could stand to be stiffer.
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May 16, 2022 17:45
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Dog bones hold roller lifters in the correct orientation since they cannot spin unlike flat tappet lifters. The spider is a small frame that goes along the lifter valley to hold the dog bones in place so the dog bones in turn hood the lifters in the correct orientation. If you just put a roller cam and lifters in a flat tappet block the lifters will spin around and wipe the cam as well as drop the guts of the lifters into the engine.
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May 16, 2022 18:31
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Fixed the loose dust cap on the sub:   A little messy, but that's because I decided I needed a bead on the outside of the seam. Probably would have been fine without that, but I'm Haven't tested yet because that was 3:30 PM Sunday, and it says to let set for 24 hours, so I'll crank it on the way home from work.
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May 16, 2022 23:11
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BigPaddy posted:I love the patina on that truck and wish mine was similar but someone repainted it once upon a time so just have to wait for the sun to do it again The only problem is that I don't think modern paints will patina up like old ones. You'll get clearcoat flaking off and then eventually the paint itself flaking off, but you don't get the 'wear' that older paints did. Part of me legit wishes my dad had never repainted my C10 but it had to be done because he was an idiot who parked it where the neighbor's lawn sprinklers hosed it multiple times a week for a decade. The bodywork behind the trim on the passenger side was so rotten you'd think the truck had come from the east coast.
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May 16, 2022 23:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:The only problem is that I don't think modern paints will patina up like old ones. You'll get clearcoat flaking off and then eventually the paint itself flaking off, but you don't get the 'wear' that older paints did. Yeah I'm sure my C10 never had a clear coat, it was a single stage paint in lacquer that was polished. The guy I bought it from had originally bought it because his son had died and he wanted to paint as a way to get his mind off it. While I'm glad he tried to find a way deal with his grief I'm glad he never painted the truck.
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May 17, 2022 02:30
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No idea what the paint on my truck is other than bad. I saw quotes $4500 to take the dents out and repaint it on the factory color so I likely will do that if it survives Power Tour and after the test end is done. Then trade it for a patina 1950 Chevy/GMC 1/2 ton of a 1955 Ford F100 and do this whole thing again
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May 17, 2022 03:00
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wesleywillis posted:What the poo poo are these dog bones and spiders? BigPaddy posted:Dog bones hold roller lifters in the correct orientation since they cannot spin unlike flat tappet lifters. The spider is a small frame that goes along the lifter valley to hold the dog bones in place so the dog bones in turn hood the lifters in the correct orientation. yeah exactly. they look like this:  chevy is cheap, so they use the same lifter bores as a flat tappet cam motor. so, the roller lifters are a little taller, and are double-D shaped at the top. the dog bones hold two adjacent lifters together, so they don't spin. the spider keeps the dog bones in the right spot aftermarket solutions use a link bar between the lifters to accomplish the same thing  costs more, though
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May 17, 2022 05:34
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Thanks to both of you for explaining, I knew that roller lifters weren't supposed to spin, but I guess I've never seen them in person. And even when I see them on whatever tv show, I've only seen the aftermarket type with the bars holding them together/preventing them from spinning.
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May 17, 2022 13:52
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cursedshitbox posted:Had a guy call the rover shop saying he did this very thing with a L322 rangie. It took out all 24 onboard computers and the $800 liquid cooled alternator. The seat belt retractors in my 1993 Toyota Pickup have been very lazy lately, leading to lots of shutting the door on a seat belt buckle. I followed the common suggestion of cleaning the belts with water and degreasing soap yesterday. The working theory is that cleaning the belts makes them more flexible and a little bit thinner by cleaning all the human grease out of them. I took the top bolt out of the seatbelt, pulled the belt all the way out of the retractor, and locked the belt in place with some old made in Nebraska Vise Grips. The water turned very dirty and the belts did feel more flexible after soaking, cleaning them with the drill brush, and letting them dry in the sun. The retractor still isn't as energetic as I would like it to be, so next I will open up the trim that hides the retractor and try to get some fresh lubricant into it.
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May 17, 2022 16:57
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wesleywillis posted:Thanks to both of you for explaining, I knew that roller lifters weren't supposed to spin, but I guess I've never seen them in person. And even when I see them on whatever tv show, I've only seen the aftermarket type with the bars holding them together/preventing them from spinning. Yeah and when he says "costs more" we are talking like 800 dollars more. Not mention a lot of times you might need to change the gear on your distributor as the drive on the cam is a softer metal and get chewed up by hardened gears on most distributors.
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May 17, 2022 17:17
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Wife's car battery took a poo poo Sunday following an oil change and several start cycles to reset the service light. Had to use a jump box to get going for groceries then would barely start Monday morning so new battery time. Was the original from 2015 and the terminal was completely trashed with growth. I've never had a car with as much as this thing and always cleaned it off while I was doing oil changes. No amount of hammering or anything else was going to get that off there so I slapped on a parts store terminal clamp while I wait for a proper replacement to arrive. Old crusty   New temporary until an OEM replacement arrives tomorrow. 
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May 17, 2022 19:36
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That parts store one actually looks to be stainless, I hate most parts store terminals but I'd probably just run that one tbh. Unless it's just chrome plated.
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May 17, 2022 19:45
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I'm using a variant of that clamp with quick-release toggles on my Crown Vic, and they've been fine for some time. I refuse to use the lead terminals, and I very much refuse to use the clamp on lead terminals unless circumstances are dire. OEMs use the steel ones with terminal posts, so will I. Dorman has some Japanese OEM-style terminals that are pretty nice: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e0/926514?pos=7 https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e0/926498?pos=6  (They both look the same. Presumably one of those is positive and the other is negative, but the pages don't say.) They don't seem to include the nut for the wire, though. edit: O'Reilly's doesn't seem to have the ones I'm using any more, but they're like these from Del City: https://www.delcity.net/store/Lead-...jhoCL_YQAvD_BwE  Darchangel fucked around with this message at 22:39 on May 17, 2022 |
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May 17, 2022 22:33
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Speaking of new terminals, where would I get some nice, crimp on, straight or 90 degree cable ends to bolt on to that style terminal? I've got new terminals like this: Which is... fine as is, but my 30 year old positive terminal is crimped directly to the positive harness, and a stretched lovely mess. I've got the matching new positive terminal, but I need to find some nice crimp terminals to build a new positive harness. Either b-style crimp like the negative, or I already own a hex die crimper for the round barrel ends.
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May 18, 2022 01:37
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I typically order mine from waytek, I'll have to look up the part numbers I use. E: All are hex crimp, tin plate, uninsulated, fully brazed or solid copper unless otherwise noted 36565 - 4awg ring, 5/16 or 8mm stud, heavy tin plate 36566 - 4awg ring, 3/8 stud, heavy tin plate 36402 - 2awg ring, 3/8 stud 32204 - 10-12awg ring, 5/16 or 8mm stud 33003 - 8awg ring, 5/16 or 8mm stud I'm sure they have 10mm stud size ring terminals as well but I think every time I've needed one it was a 2am "gently caress I need it now" thing and I took a 10mm drill bit to a 3/8 ring terminal from the list above. I use marine grade double wall heatshrink to make sure nothing can migrate up into the cable insulation. Make sure to heat the ring lug fairly well while shrinking the tubing so that the glue lining bonds to it correctly instead of flash cooling it when it touches. kastein fucked around with this message at 08:14 on May 18, 2022 |
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May 18, 2022 08:01
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Darchangel posted:https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...e0/926514?pos=7 This is what the newer Toyota OEM looks like and what I have on the way
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May 18, 2022 12:40
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