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Grizzled Patriarch posted:I really don't get why so many people act like airbrush maintenance is this huge pain in the rear end lol, it's really not that bad. My guess is that a lot of people think you always have to do a "deep clean" with a full and complete breakdown of the airbrush every time. When in reality the most you might have to do in terms of disassembly, at the end of an average airbrushing session, is take the needle out and wipe it down.
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May 21, 2022 14:06
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Grizzled Patriarch posted:Kinda sounds like the "wet docking" thing that people who use industrial-sized airbrushes do sometimes (leaving it submerged in cleaning solution) but it seems like you'd get pretty negligible benefits from soaking in water like that. You'd have to use distilled water to make sure you don't get any weird mineral buildup or have any impurities that could attack imperfections in the stainless steel (silicone or rubber gaskets should be fine in theory, though) and the loose paint still has to go somewhere, which might include just getting re-deposited in even more annoying spots. It would also probably strip any lubricant so you'd have to redo that every time too - seems like a lot of potential risk to save, what, a minute or two of cleaning? He specifically advocates against distilled water and says use tap.
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May 21, 2022 14:32
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Yeast posted:A couple of commission painters I know do the same thing. They leave their airbrush in a glass with heavily diluted airbrush cleaner overnight. They do, predictably, not have the need to do deep cleaning. This doesn't mess with the rubber seals?
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May 21, 2022 14:32
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w00tmonger posted:Anyone ork-ified one of these yet? With all the pipes and things sticking out of it it's pretty orky already, if it were under a tenner I'd get one, but £25 including pnp on ebay is a bit much sadly
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May 21, 2022 14:35
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Since I'm only really going to be painting on the weekend I've been watching videos of both how to paint (love Duncan Rhodes and that Hobby Cheating guy), but I also found what I think is the best example of painting old second edition minis as they would have been: https://youtu.be/R5Js-ox6yPE I had a few questions/comments about this after watching paint up four different miniatures using basically period paints and techniques: So, the bright, vibrant, almost cartoonish colors (which I love) are a product of the white undercoat and simply using those more ... Saturated? Bright? Paints? As in, there's nothing special about either period Citadel paints or modern Coat d'arms paint that make them more suitable than Vallejo or modern Citadel? I ask because the videos make it very clear that, nostalgia aside, a lot of these paints are very translucent and difficult to apply as layer paints. But something like the Vallejo Fantasy boxed set is basically the same thing in that it's more bright and vibrant colors than what you'd see in a historical miniatures range of paint? So they'd work fine for this and be cheaper, easier to find, and maybe cover better? Anyway, these 90s plastic Orks and grits are definitely something I wan to try my hand at, but on the smaller Kill Team scale.
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May 21, 2022 14:48
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I think it's kinda fun how everyone has these different rituals and methods for cleaning their airbrush and nobody is really sure how to do it right. 
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May 21, 2022 15:56
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Thanks for the vortex mixer suggestion, great QOL improvement. I’m surprised at how much most of my instincts are still around after ~5 years of not painting. I have some ideas on what to focus on given what I’ve been doing when I last painted. What’s the best pure white nowadays? Last time it was P3’s white due to coverage and consistency.
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May 21, 2022 16:14
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Chill la Chill posted:Thanks for the vortex mixer suggestion, great QOL improvement. No joke, go buy a small tube of artists Titanium white from a local art supply store. It will last forever, and be thinned like no model paint can and has phenomenal coverage.
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May 21, 2022 16:45
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Indolent Bastard posted:He specifically advocates against distilled water and says use tap. That's pretty weird because tap water has a ton of impurities in it that can cause all sorts of issues in a long term soak. like calcium buildup, chlorine in the tap water breaking down gaskets, etc. Had to rewatch and he said distilled water can get bacterial growth, which I guess could happen if you just never switch the water out. I dunno, just kinda feels like one of those things that sounds like a neat hack in theory but ends up causing issues in the long term. Plus if you're completely disassembling your airbrush between each session to do this you're flat out not even saving any time. Maybe I'm just lucky but my process of rinsing out excess paint, running cleaning fluid through until its clear, then slipping out the needle for a quick clean + lube has completely avoided any clogging issues so far. Some airbrushes are definitely more temperamental about cleaning, though.
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May 21, 2022 19:46
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Geisladisk posted:I think it's kinda fun how everyone has these different rituals and methods for cleaning their airbrush and nobody is really sure how to do it right. I never clean or dare take apart my sacred airbrush. I just pray to it every night to appease the machine spirit. Like and subscribe for more tips like this and more.
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May 21, 2022 21:44
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AndyElusive posted:I never clean or dare take apart my sacred airbrush. I just pray to it every night to appease the machine spirit. Like and subscribe for more tips like this and more. You forgot the "Sponsored by Squarespace".
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May 21, 2022 21:48
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IncredibleIgloo posted:You forgot the "Sponsored by Squarespace". That's because I'm sponsored by Manscape. Experience the Best Men's Grooming Brand for Your Face, Body & Below-the-Waist! Shop Now. Try the Best Manscaping Tools for Men. Shop Our Precision Tools for Your Family Jewels. SkinSafe™ Technology.
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May 21, 2022 21:53
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Finished my Kuritans.
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May 21, 2022 23:33
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Crosspost: I'm finally cutting my Terrax Assault drills in half so I can double my vehicle force. I plan on doing smoke, flying rock, upchucked power poles, and etc to fill out the silhouette to match the dimensions of the non-based/whole version of the model. Quick question before I start however, what's a good base size for this thing? If there's no "standard" base size for the drill, then are there any oval bases I might be able to use? That might be more preferable. Here's some links to base sizes to help answer this question. Rounds:  Ovals: 
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May 22, 2022 02:06
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Indolent Bastard posted:This doesn't mess with the rubber seals? Nup, quality airbrushes use seals that can withstand that easily. Seals also should be replaced every 2-3 years anyway due to regular use, and they’ll run you about $7 for a full set of replacements
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May 22, 2022 02:44
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Chill la Chill posted:Thanks for the vortex mixer suggestion, great QOL improvement. Vallejo White is good from any range. Tamiya, Kimera, Scale Colour Artist, Liquitex Titanium White ink are all good alternatives. I think on the OP there is a list of best in class colours. Not sure how up to date it is. Lots of good whites available. You will see a HUGE range of suggestions. You have too many options. Will probably end up with more paint than you will ever need if you are like me... Hoboskins fucked around with this message at 04:53 on May 22, 2022 |
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May 22, 2022 04:50
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Transferring Citadel paints to pots is a pain in the rear end, but especially so when there is already a mixing ball in there and it's clogging the funnel and you have to find it
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May 22, 2022 05:38
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Chill la Chill posted:What’s the best pure white nowadays? Last time it was P3’s white due to coverage and consistency. Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White, from Monument Hobbies, is actually a pleasure to work with. For me it's been the transition between pure white being this thing that was worked towards and then carefully preserved on a model, and being something I can just slap on wherever as an undercoat, or at an early stage, with the confidence that I can easily get back to that colour as needed.
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May 22, 2022 09:18
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throwing a rec for a tub of golden soflat titanium white into the ring
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May 22, 2022 09:43
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Thanks to everyone's suggestions earlier. I intend to get the Vallejo Game Colour starter set for my first paints, but I am looking at Air Brush Primers. I already have a cheap airbrush for such a thing. Many people seem to go by Stynelrez Badger, but in Finland, they're not available and I've heard mixed views on Vallejo's. Army Painter's Air paints seems to be getting some good words in, despite their normal warpaint range not being seen as good. Has anyone tried their new airbrush primers and paints and how to they hold up compared to other ranges?
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May 22, 2022 20:25
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I have had good luck with Vallejo's airbrush primers, Stynelrez is currently untrustworthy because of their recent bad batch / supply problems.
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May 22, 2022 20:29
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I've only used Vallejo airbrush primers so far and I don't plan to swap any time soon. Haven't had any issues. Stynelrez apparently changed their recipe to something much worse, then changed it back after the backlash but there's no way to differentiate between the "good" and "bad" formulas so I've just avoided it altogether.
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May 22, 2022 20:29
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Maneck posted:Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White, from Monument Hobbies, is actually a pleasure to work with. For me it's been the transition between pure white being this thing that was worked towards and then carefully preserved on a model, and being something I can just slap on wherever as an undercoat, or at an early stage, with the confidence that I can easily get back to that colour as needed. This guy speaks the truth
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May 22, 2022 22:13
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What's the go to adhesive for metal minis these days. I'm getting the itch to get crafty again, in no small part to the massive loving backlog of Warcaster minis I have, all which are metal. I'd been using Loctite which is... ok except when it's just absolutely not.
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May 22, 2022 23:37
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 Trying to see if I like painting Chaos so I did a World Eaters test model following Richard Gray's blood angels tutorial for the red.
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May 22, 2022 23:41
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rantmo posted:What's the go to adhesive for metal minis these days. I'm getting the itch to get crafty again, in no small part to the massive loving backlog of Warcaster minis I have, all which are metal. I'd been using Loctite which is... ok except when it's just absolutely not. CA superglue. I like the gorilla glue with the blue cap, but but generic stuff with the purple cap from bob smith industries or whatever is also good.
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May 23, 2022 00:11
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Spanish Manlove posted:CA superglue. I like the gorilla glue with the blue cap, but but generic stuff with the purple cap from bob smith industries or whatever is also good. Well that's handy since that's the Loctite I've already got on hand, the Ultragel Control specifically.
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May 23, 2022 00:47
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I am painting some Skitarri up. I am painting the cloaks Xereus Purple and the inside of the cloak/inner trim Dorn Yellow (A very light yellow, close to french vanilla). I didn't realize that these little guys had so much robot body parts and now I am kind of wondering what I should do for the metallic colors? I would guess the options would be silver/lead, gold, or brass/bronze, with the option for either of those to be darker or lighter. The goggles/eyes of the skitarri will be bright yellow, if that helps. The guns and weapons brown woodstock where applicable, and I don't know what color pants they will have yet. Mainly I just want the focus to be the purple/dorn yellow contrast set off with the bright yellow eyes.
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May 23, 2022 01:20
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rantmo posted:Well that's handy since that's the Loctite I've already got on hand, the Ultragel Control specifically. If it's older than six months just get new stuff.
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May 23, 2022 01:34
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Wooops I accidently purchased a 105 x 170mm base for my Admech walker instead of the 105 x 70mm base. The difference is...quite big. I remember when I was ordering it thinking, "Wow, 20 bucks for a base is a bit much, especially if I want two of these in the army!". The thing is as big as a dinner plate.
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May 23, 2022 01:46
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Did a daemon prince for my 1ksons  
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May 23, 2022 01:55
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Cat Face Joe posted:If it's older than six months just get new stuff. Yeah, I've got an unopened bottle I'll crack open for the metals.
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May 23, 2022 02:10
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Cat Face Joe posted:If it's older than six months just get new stuff. Since it's about $5 at the supermarket for the stuff I highly recommend this. After a while it just starts to suck, even if you're meticulous and keep the tips clean.
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May 23, 2022 03:23
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the only problem i've ever had with dollar store brush super glue is when i accidentally glue the lid closed
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May 23, 2022 03:38
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Spanish Manlove posted:Since it's about $5 at the supermarket for the stuff I highly recommend this. After a while it just starts to suck, even if you're meticulous and keep the tips clean. CA glue gets worse and worse the more moisture gets at it, so just buy the smallest one you can find and throw it out every 90 days
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May 23, 2022 03:46
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After 3 months of painting, I started finishing my Titans for Titanicus (a surprisingly good, and underrated, game). I did the titans one at a time, but batched the bases together.             
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May 23, 2022 04:32
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Out of curiosity what paint colour do you reckon they used to do the trim on the knight abominant box art? Liberator gold doesn’t look quite right and I’m almost tempted to say it’s runelord brass or sycorax bronze or something.
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May 23, 2022 05:03
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Verisimilidude posted:
Now that is a veteran of the Long War. The overall scheme looks great, just fix anything annoying that shows up only in the photo and you're good to start doing batches.
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May 23, 2022 05:33
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Red Herring posted:After 3 months of painting, I started finishing my Titans for Titanicus (a surprisingly good, and underrated, game). I did the titans one at a time, but batched the bases together. The patterns on these are terrific.
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May 23, 2022 14:05
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mllaneza posted:Now that is a veteran of the Long War. The overall scheme looks great, just fix anything annoying that shows up only in the photo and you're good to start doing batches. Yeah, that's part of why I like to take photos of my minis. In person it's hard to notice imperfections and issues. Some things I'd like to do differently: -paint the metal black first. This is to add a differentiating line between the metal and other parts -add more scratches to the armor, though I don't have a brush that's up to the task -add decals
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May 23, 2022 14:34
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