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Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


I have occasionally found deals on alexandrites but it takes a lot of work and a lot of looking at crazy prices.
As a side-note the market technically values a full red-green 'russian style' color change highest, but I much prefer the 'brazilian style' teal blue to purple. You'll never coax a full ruby red out of an alexandrite in normal lighting since we don't eat by candlelight anymore, but the brazilian style will throw off sparks of both colors under mixed LED illumination which you're much more likely to encounter in real life.

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Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


Leperflesh posted:

Could be nephrite/jadeite, I've seen it that color before (search for white or pink jade or nephrite to see examples). Whatever it is, it has very very fine grain, which makes it harder to identify from a photo. Some variety of marble is definitely possible.

this is jade, for example:


my initial thought was moss agate

OP you mentioned a scratch test, what were the conditions and results?

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

gently caress. I should have thought of chalcedony. Hardness is 6.7-7, should also scratch steel. I think moss agate tends to have that dark forest-green color in it, that I don't really see in JD's pig, and I also feel like I see a bit of a pinkish matrix that doesn't shout moss agate, but it's another one of those highly variable stones that could be a match yeah.

Xun
Apr 25, 2010

Would a 12mm gem look bad on a pendant? This topaz I'm cutting for my gf is looking like it's going to be around that size and I'm conflicted between cutting it down or just going BEEG

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


This is going to vary with individual style but you can go much larger than 12mm without looking too big for a pendant in general imo.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Scarodactyl posted:

This is going to vary with individual style but you can go much larger than 12mm without looking too big for a pendant in general imo.



In all seriousness, there's not really a minimum or maximum size for a pendant. 12mm topaz will be fine, just make sure the chain is an appropriate gauge and length for the size of the stone + setting.

I think this is a bit too big:


but this is fine:

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Mar 11, 2022

Nae
Sep 3, 2020

what.

Xun posted:

Would a 12mm gem look bad on a pendant? This topaz I'm cutting for my gf is looking like it's going to be around that size and I'm conflicted between cutting it down or just going BEEG

I have a ~12mm aqua cab in a double-bezel pendant that I like a lot. It's a good size as long as you're not wearing a super-busy pattern underneath it or something.

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


I got my hands on a few boule offcuts of LuAG, a turbofluorescent sy thetic used to detect radiation (since higher energy nonvisible light makes it fluoresce too). My friend cut one into a single gigantic stone.
Let's see if I can make Tiktok work
https://www.tiktok.com/embed/??????????8?
(Backup insta link https://www.instagram.com/reel/CbIVIz1ND_7/?utm_medium=copy_link )
If anyone wants some rough I have a little left, mostly smaller stuff though. It has sold very quickly.

Scarodactyl fucked around with this message at 23:15 on Mar 16, 2022

cardinale
Jul 11, 2016

Wow, that looks amazing!

Zudgemud
Mar 1, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Scarodactyl posted:

I got my hands on a few boule offcuts of LuAG, a turbofluorescent sy thetic used to detect radiation (since higher energy nonvisible light makes it fluoresce too). My friend cut one into a single gigantic stone.
Let's see if I can make Tiktok work
https://www.tiktok.com/embed/??????????8?
(Backup insta link https://www.instagram.com/reel/CbIVIz1ND_7/?utm_medium=copy_link )
If anyone wants some rough I have a little left, mostly smaller stuff though. It has sold very quickly.

That look amazing! Is it even more fluorescent than cerium doped YAGs?

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


Yup, it is even brighter than Ce YAG.

Scarodactyl fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Mar 17, 2022

uranium grass
Jan 15, 2005

How does it compare to the glow of uranium glass? I have some lovely big faceted ug jewels I keep meaning to use for something.

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


Similar color but a lot more powerful. It's downright uncanny in the right illumination.

uranium grass
Jan 15, 2005

Can you dm me some prices on the rough you have left? No guarantee it's in my budget but sounds interesting and I'd love to get my hands on a piece!

Aquila
Jan 24, 2003

Scarodactyl posted:

If anyone wants some rough I have a little left, mostly smaller stuff though. It has sold very quickly.

I too would be very interested in this.

My Alexandrite story, almost twenty years ago a jeweler gave me a tour of his home shop and showed me two gems I'd never seen before, what he stated were 30 and 40 carat natural Alexandrite, valued at about $30,000 and $40,000. I'd never seen anything like it and that started my love of gems. Later I somehow found on SAMart a 30 carat synthetic Alexandrite for only $40, I keep it on my desk to this day, and haven't found anything this size since.

Aquila fucked around with this message at 21:48 on Mar 17, 2022

Xun
Apr 25, 2010

Are you the guy selling it in that Facebook group? Cause I'm gona try to buy some!!!

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


Well, he did it again, this time with an even bigger piece of the classic Ce:YAG
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CbYhEdKv47U/?utm_medium=copy_link
It may not be quite as bright as the LuAG but at 764 carats it makes up for it in mass.

Aquila
Jan 24, 2003

I got my chunk of LuAG yesterday but it was overcast and raining all day so it didn't look like anything to special. Today it's clear out and just sitting on my desk it is literally glowing. Now I'm torn between looking into getting it cut somehow, or just keeping it as it is.

A MIRACLE
Sep 17, 2007

All right. It's Saturday night; I have no date, a two-liter bottle of Shasta and my all-Rush mix-tape... Let's rock.

Hey I’ve been married about a year and we are thinking of getting some gold wedding bands does anyone have recommendations on where to shop for these, I’m in LA. Thanks

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


Today we launched a new material, a rising star in high end technical applications but previously unknown in the world of gems.


https://www.tiktok.com/embed/7101361097814543662
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTdn7CCdH/
Gadolinium Aluminum Gallium Garnet, or GAGG. It is like a classic GGG but with added aluminum which significantly increases hardness (to 8). It is like Ce YAG but brighter, a bit greener, has a 'snappier' look like luag and it glows in the dark!

Scarodactyl fucked around with this message at 06:23 on May 25, 2022

Zudgemud
Mar 1, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Scarodactyl posted:

Today we launched a new material, a rising star in high end technical applications but previously unknown in the world of gems.


https://www.tiktok.com/embed/7101361097814543662
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTdn7CCdH/
Gadolinium Aluminum Gallium Garnet, or GAGG. It is like a classic GGG but with added aluminum which significantly increases hardness (to 8). It is like Ce YAG but brighter, a bit greener, has a 'snappier' look like luag and it glows in the dark!

Do you have pictures of it in a more natural light? The pictures in your shop looks to be indoor.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Scarodactyl posted:

Today we launched a new material, a rising star in high end technical applications but previously unknown in the world of gems.


https://www.tiktok.com/embed/7101361097814543662
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTdn7CCdH/
Gadolinium Aluminum Gallium Garnet, or GAGG. It is like a classic GGG but with added aluminum which significantly increases hardness (to 8). It is like Ce YAG but brighter, a bit greener, has a 'snappier' look like luag and it glows in the dark!

Have you upgraded to making materials yourself now? Or getting them custom made to your specs?

Aquila
Jan 24, 2003

Scarodactyl posted:

Today we launched a new material, a rising star in high end technical applications but previously unknown in the world of gems.


https://www.tiktok.com/embed/7101361097814543662
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTdn7CCdH/
Gadolinium Aluminum Gallium Garnet, or GAGG. It is like a classic GGG but with added aluminum which significantly increases hardness (to 8). It is like Ce YAG but brighter, a bit greener, has a 'snappier' look like luag and it glows in the dark!

Can I buy some of this cut?

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


Claes Oldenburger posted:

Have you upgraded to making materials yourself now? Or getting them custom made to your specs?
Not yet but we're looking into it.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Scarodactyl posted:

Not yet but we're looking into it.

That's awesome!

Aquila
Jan 24, 2003



Thank you so much Scarodactyl, this gem is incredibly shiny.

Nae
Sep 3, 2020

what.

A friend of mine who's into gem collecting recently told me that she's hearing rumors of shortages in gem synthetic rough (corundum, chrysoberyl, beryl, and so forth) due to places closing down/not making it anymore. I tried googling for more info but didn't see any. Have any of you cutters/gem goons heard anything similar, or is a synthetic materials shortage just a rumor?

Scarodactyl
Oct 22, 2015


Some materials will never be in short supply, but a surprising number of companies that once sold synthetic rough to faceters are either gone or don't do it anymore (ie Chatham only sells jewelry now, Djeva's gone, The Gem Factory closed its doors, Tairus lost their Russian half a while back). Once-classic materials like strontium titanate have had very spotty availability as rough, and even some of the flame fusion sapphire and spinel colors are out of production. That said I think there will be enough interesting synthetics just from the industrial stream to keep faceters in rough for the foreseeable future. We have a variety listed on our etsy page ( https://turtleshoard.etsy.com ) and keep finding more cool stuff--lots of parcels vaguely inbound. We just got more LuAG rough in as well as a bit of old stock synthetic alexandrite (the real synthetic alex, not the V-doped sapphire often sold as alex).

Xun
Apr 25, 2010

Rip Djeva. I still have a big box of rough from there waiting for me back in the US. Some people have been collecting FF sapphire and it's really sad seeing the cool colors that are no longer being produced

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Scarodactyl posted:

Some materials will never be in short supply, but a surprising number of companies that once sold synthetic rough to faceters are either gone or don't do it anymore (ie Chatham only sells jewelry now, Djeva's gone, The Gem Factory closed its doors, Tairus lost their Russian half a while back). Once-classic materials like strontium titanate have had very spotty availability as rough, and even some of the flame fusion sapphire and spinel colors are out of production. That said I think there will be enough interesting synthetics just from the industrial stream to keep faceters in rough for the foreseeable future. We have a variety listed on our etsy page ( https://turtleshoard.etsy.com ) and keep finding more cool stuff--lots of parcels vaguely inbound. We just got more LuAG rough in as well as a bit of old stock synthetic alexandrite (the real synthetic alex, not the V-doped sapphire often sold as alex).

Really stoked I got that 8g chunk of LuAG from you. It's weird getting into the synthetic game now with things dropping out, but at least it's easier than trying to find nice natural sapphire rough :smith:

Nae
Sep 3, 2020

what.

Claes Oldenburger posted:

Really stoked I got that 8g chunk of LuAG from you. It's weird getting into the synthetic game now with things dropping out, but at least it's easier than trying to find nice natural sapphire rough :smith:

Are the shortages in rough due to the current global supply chain issues hitting every other industry, or are deposits drying up, too? So much of what I know about gems is on the retail side and I want to learn more about the acquisition/cutting process, but it seems like a rough time all around.

Zudgemud
Mar 1, 2009
Grimey Drawer

Nae posted:

Are the shortages in rough due to the current global supply chain issues hitting every other industry, or are deposits drying up, too? So much of what I know about gems is on the retail side and I want to learn more about the acquisition/cutting process, but it seems like a rough time all around.

I would guess it's simply that these are/were all small private enterprises wholly reliant on the fast and cheap international shipping that was available pre covid.

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

A lot of instability in African gem sites (Ethiopia's civil war for instance), supply chain issues, covid travel issues. The Tucson gem show has had very few international dealers the last couple years and that's the major way new materials get to market.

On the synthetics side most of the big ones have realized that they are more profitable just cutting their own synthetic gems in house, and many of the others have gone out of business.

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Nae posted:

Are the shortages in rough due to the current global supply chain issues hitting every other industry, or are deposits drying up, too? So much of what I know about gems is on the retail side and I want to learn more about the acquisition/cutting process, but it seems like a rough time all around.

Sapphire was tough anyways purely because of demand. Any rough is going to go through a lot of bigger players before I see it, and some countries (specifically Sri Lanka) I believe have made it illegal to export rough, so the stones are cut within the country. It's a good policy that helps them, it just adds another layer to what's available. That was all pre covid, which has added even more things as others have mentioned.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
I want to buy a pair of diamond stud earrings for my wife. Is there any reason not to buy the from Costco? Seems like their prices are tough to beat.

Nae
Sep 3, 2020

what.

Residency Evil posted:

I want to buy a pair of diamond stud earrings for my wife. Is there any reason not to buy the from Costco? Seems like their prices are tough to beat.

Honestly, it depends how deep into the weeds you want to get with assessing the quality. I just looked at studs on the Costco website and there's a lot of information they're not disclosing, namely: who graded these diamonds for their the color and clarity? Diamond grading is a subjective process, and some graders are going to be more 'forgiving' than others. This means that you could have a diamond that one grader says is colorless and free from visible defects, while another says they can see some yellow in it and some defects. So who's right? If you don't know who certified the diamonds (and you're not a trained professional), you don't know who to trust, which means you don't know if you're getting screwed or not.

Now, I have no idea how forgiving Costco's diamond graders are (though I suspect they're more lenient than most, but not as egregious as some), and they don't appear to include any kind of certification to tell me. When you buy from independent jewelers, whether brick and mortar or online, they can typically tell you who graded their diamonds for their quality, and whether or not they're a trusted source. If it's important to you to know that you're getting exactly what you're paying for, you may want to pay extra for a place that certifies their diamond grades through independent sources. If you're willing to put your faith in Costco and accept that what you're buying may not be the same level of quality as stated on the website, then Costco's not a bad deal. It all comes down to what you personally want from the purchase, and how you choose to spend your money.

Little addendum here: I only mentioned color and clarity here since Costco doesn't show any grading information about the quality of the cuts, but cut quality does make a big difference in the brightness and the sparkle of your diamonds. I can give you more details if you want, but I'm loath to get into it unless you're really curious, because it can get overwhelming fast and I don't want to make the process any more confusing than it already feels.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
Sent you a PM!

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Does Costco definitively trace their diamonds from an ethical source?

Claes Oldenburger
Apr 23, 2010

Metal magician!
:black101:

Leperflesh posted:

Does Costco definitively trace their diamonds from an ethical source?

Does anyone? The kimberly process works as well as any system is going to, so the vast majority of stones now are going to be above board.

That is solely from the aspect of human rights issues, and not from the ethics of mining for them at all, or power usage from coal for lab grown stones etc.

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Nae
Sep 3, 2020

what.

Claes Oldenburger posted:

Does anyone? The kimberly process works as well as any system is going to, so the vast majority of stones now are going to be above board.

Sometimes I hear people say 'oh I got an emerald/sapphire/ruby engagement ring because I didn't want a blood diamond' and I just kind of shake my head, because who the hell knows where/when some of those stones came from? I love colored stones with my whole heart, but you'll never catch me saying they're more ethical than diamonds. poo poo, even Montana sapphires involve you giving money to the state of Montana, and that's just unthinkable.

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