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Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Captain Kosmos posted:

Hello

Is there some youtube video that would show how to get rid of these kinds of scratches, chips, etc without the result looking like poo poo and looking the same after months?



Can do a decent job painting completely cleaned parts, but never had luck with patching up old paintwork.

Light buff then touch up paint? Take it to a body shop, they have a lot of tricks but it will likely come down to buffing and touch up. Unless you want to DIY for money reasons.

The buffing is one and done but as you noted, touch up paint might flake off after a year or so and need a replacement dab with a tiny brush or toothpick.

The only permanent fix is a repaint of the panel.

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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

STR posted:

My own dumb question. 2007 Ford Crown Victoria (P71 version, so no PATS).

The car occasionally thinks the key is still in the ignition, which prevents me from locking the doors (and keeps the door chime right on ding-dinging along). Smacking the steering column fixes it most of the time, the rest of the time putting the key in and cycling it between accessory and off, then removing the key, takes care of it. Occasionally I can just grab the black plastic surround that turns with the key and wiggle it, and that will get it to stop.

Would this be the ignition cylinder itself, or the switch? Or something else? It's becoming a more and more frequent issue (went from once a month to several times a week in short order).

Can you pull the key out of the ignition without it being turned all the way back?
If so, you might not be turning it all the way back when you pull out, and thats making it ding.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

I cannot. However, I'm using a key that was cut at the dealer with the VIN - so only about a year of wear on it.

They key that came with it was so worn out that I could only use it in the driver's door, and with a lot of jiggling, in the ignition. That one still wouldn't come out without shutting the car off though (I've had my share of cars where that was a thing).

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

STR posted:

Contact Kia corporate. There's an active recall on a whole slew of Hyundai and Kia engines for knocking/blowing up/failing/etc. The dealer should know drat well about the recall, I'm sure they've done dozens, if not hundreds, of them by now. They don't LIKE doing them because (a) they don't get paid as much for warranty/recall work and (b) they have to build the engines there, I don't think Kia supplies an assembled long block to them. So long as your cousin has kept good records of oil changes and maintenance, Kia should take care of him.

https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a34882987/kia-recall-fire-risk-engine-damage/

Several of the shops I run are Kia or Hyundai branded. I love doing warranty engines for customers. It’s good warranty pay, and the customer is happy.

There are several tiers of campaigns on the engines. If you’re in the original one (which has related class-actions) you’ll get taken care of in a big way. If you’re in one of the expanded classes, less so.

Generally all classes but the big one are limited to 10 years/120k miles. You need at least one oil change record within 12 months, but we also have to check for sludge.

Jose Cuervo
Aug 25, 2004
I noticed the engine coolant was running low in my 1998 Toyota Camry (none in the coolant reservoir, I was checking before a long trip from Virginia to Louisiana), and I picked up some coolant (Peak Original Equipment North American Vehicles - Gold) on my way home in a rush. I poured about 2 cups into the coolant reservoir before I noticed that it was meant for North American vehicles, which my Toyota is not. Is this a huge mistake that will damage my engine (especially because of the long trip I will be taking)? Or is this not something to worry about?

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Use a turkey baster to remove everything from that reservoir. Get some Zerex Asian Red coolant, top it off with that. Top it off via the radiator cap too (which... probably is on the engine, not radiator, but still).

You're probably due for a coolant change soon anyway, I would change it when you get back.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

If you can't find that I would fill it with distilled water and do a coolant change when you get back still (well before it gets to the freezing temps).

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Jose Cuervo posted:

I noticed the engine coolant was

Is this a huge mistake

No it is not a huge mistake. This is on par with drinking bottled water vs tap water

Coolant is 98%+ water, the remainder is lubricant for the pump, and some kind of literal anti freeze (hence the name)

I'm sure there's some difference between asian and domestic but a gallon of generic coolant in a 5+ gallon system isn't going to have any negative measurable effect over the next 100,000 miles

I would not hesitate to drive that cross country two times back to back

As the other guy said, coolant flush in the not too distant future probably wouldn't hurt

Jose Cuervo
Aug 25, 2004

STR posted:

Use a turkey baster to remove everything from that reservoir. Get some Zerex Asian Red coolant, top it off with that. Top it off via the radiator cap too (which... probably is on the engine, not radiator, but still).

You're probably due for a coolant change soon anyway, I would change it when you get back.


VelociBacon posted:

If you can't find that I would fill it with distilled water and do a coolant change when you get back still (well before it gets to the freezing temps).


Hadlock posted:

No it is not a huge mistake. This is on par with drinking bottled water vs tap water

Coolant is 98%+ water, the remainder is lubricant for the pump, and some kind of literal anti freeze (hence the name)

I'm sure there's some difference between asian and domestic but a gallon of generic coolant in a 5+ gallon system isn't going to have any negative measurable effect over the next 100,000 miles

I would not hesitate to drive that cross country two times back to back

As the other guy said, coolant flush in the not too distant future probably wouldn't hurt

I ended up removing the 2 cups worth of new coolant from the reservoir using a syringe and have a plan to run by AdvanceAuto parts in the morning to pick up the Zerex Asian Red (I checked that it is in stock).

Will do the coolant flush once I am done with the trip.

Thanks for the advice.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!


(USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal
On the back of the bottle it says "full compatible with other extended life coolants". Also "PEAK ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT TECHNOLOGY ANTIFREEZE + COOLANT for NORTH AMERICAN VEHICLES - GOLD is free of phosphate, amines and 2-ethyl hexanoic acid (2-EHA) and is safe for non-metallic cooling system components. It is fully compatible with other gold hybrid coolants and meets the performance requirements of ASTM D3306, D4985 and D6210." Not sure if that helps make any decisions, don't know what the requirements for a Toyota of that era. It is gold in color instead of green, and says to not use it for topping off. It's specifically for some Chryslers and Fords of the 2000s.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

What's the general name for this kind of trailer, and where can I buy one? The kind that you sometimes see with bikes or kayaks on top.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Safety Dance posted:

What's the general name for this kind of trailer, and where can I buy one? The kind that you sometimes see with bikes or kayaks on top.



I google image searched that image and it came back with "motorcycle/cargo trailer"

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

After a lot more searching, I think the term is "luggage trailer".

Captain Kosmos
Mar 28, 2010

think of it like the "Who's Who" of genitals

Inner Light posted:

Light buff then touch up paint? Take it to a body shop, they have a lot of tricks but it will likely come down to buffing and touch up. Unless you want to DIY for money reasons.

The buffing is one and done but as you noted, touch up paint might flake off after a year or so and need a replacement dab with a tiny brush or toothpick.

The only permanent fix is a repaint of the panel.

Money and I like to do stuff myself. Buffed once that fender rusty bit but it came back, cause the rust is still underneath.
There's some rust also starting to poke out on the bottom of the car, it's just not my car and it should be upgraded to bigger. Eh... stupid cars. :shrug:

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



It sucks but you have to get down to the bare metal & treat the rust at the source. With patience & a little bondo & glazing putty, you should be able to bring it back to surface but the paint will never be the same there. Best you can hope for is that you stop noticing it after a while.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


2019 Accord Hybrid.


Replaced a tire due to an unrepairable nail. New tire has 9/32 tread depth, old tires have 6/32. Is there any issue with having the new tire on the rear opposite an older tire until the older tire needs replacement or do I need to replace the opposite tire with a new one?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Total wheel diameter is only about 2.4mm larger, that's less than the thickness of a headphone plug. Vs total wheel diameter of ~24 inches. A piece of gravel in your tire tread probably has a larger impact

If you absolutely feel the need to take action, run that tire at 1psi lower than the other

Roumba
Jun 29, 2005
Buglord
Just as I was getting my car ('02 Accord EX-whatever, the 6 cylinder) into the garage after a day at the office, I heard a "pop" sound. It was very much like you would hear if you drove over a partially-full, sealed up plastic water bottle. After I finished parking, I got out to see a little pool of liquid on the bottom of my garage near the entrance. Dabbing it with some white paper towels revealed a sky blue sports drink color, but that is also most antifreezes too, I think? I popped the hood to take a quick look, but I did not see anything obviously wet or busted. I also noticed a squashed plastic drink bottle in the street just in front of my driveway, so I blamed the sound and liquid on that splashing up on to the bottom of my car. Later, however, I got curious and went back out to check the bottle: Apricot-melon flavor, hmmm I don't think that would be blue, I better check the engine a little more closely...

I saw that the coolant reserve tank only had few drops left in it, well below the minimim line. Pulling it out and giving the remaining fluid a number of swirls revealed no leaks or cracks, so this leak must have come from elsewhere, right? With the radiator cap off I did not see any fluid, but I've never opened that before so I don't know what kind of level of fluid to expect, but nothing visible does not seem good. poo poo.

Could this be a hose thing or is my radiator toast? Is there anything else I can do to narrow things down?

e: The extent of my car maintenance experience is changing tires and headlights, but am willing to learn and try new things ;)

Roumba fucked around with this message at 17:43 on Jun 4, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sounds like windshield washer fluid to me.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

If it's warm there, could also be condensation from your A/C, mixed with whatever is on your garage floor

As mentioned wiper fluid is always blue. Is your radiator fluid blue or green when you take the cap off?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Newer Hondas use blue, not sure about '02. But if there's no antifreeze visible in the radiator or the overflow, that's a problem either way.

If it's such a bad leak that it dumped everything out quickly like that, just put some water in to top things off and see if it comes back out.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Newer Hondas use blue, not sure about '02. But if there's no antifreeze visible in the radiator or the overflow, that's a problem either way.

If it's such a bad leak that it dumped everything out quickly like that, just put some water in to top things off and see if it comes back out.

distilled water, to be specific

it's only $1/gal, might as well not crud up the system with tap water

Roumba
Jun 29, 2005
Buglord

Motronic posted:

Sounds like windshield washer fluid to me.

Checked on this, there's plenty in there.

Hadlock posted:

If it's warm there, could also be condensation from your A/C, mixed with whatever is on your garage floor

As mentioned wiper fluid is always blue. Is your radiator fluid blue or green when you take the cap off?

Nah this wasn't the usual A/C condensation, and it didn't evaporate away quickly like usual. When I went back out several hours later, it was still wet.
I do not see any fluid when I open the radiator cap, just the tops of the fins... and a bit of the cap itself that fell off when I took it off. I fished the spring out, but I think a little washer or gasket that was attached to it is lost deep in there. I think I'll order a new one of those.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Newer Hondas use blue, not sure about '02. But if there's no antifreeze visible in the radiator or the overflow, that's a problem either way.

If it's such a bad leak that it dumped everything out quickly like that, just put some water in to top things off and see if it comes back out.

Yeah, I'll take a walk to the grocery store and grab some distilled water to give that a try. Thanks, everybody.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Normally I'd agree on distilled but given that the system is that low, I expect most of the water to come right back out.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Raluek posted:

distilled water, to be specific

it's only $1/gal, might as well not crud up the system with tap water

There's not enough ions dissolved in tap water to make any difference whatever. Using distilled water in your radiator is a myth that refuses to die.

The ions that make up the lime scale in the system come from the metal parts inside the engine slowly corroding and dissolving. Distilled water isn't going to affect that in the slightest.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Shifty Pony posted:

2019 Accord Hybrid.


Replaced a tire due to an unrepairable nail. New tire has 9/32 tread depth, old tires have 6/32. Is there any issue with having the new tire on the rear opposite an older tire until the older tire needs replacement or do I need to replace the opposite tire with a new one?

Only really an issue if there was a differential between the wheels, you're fine on the back since that's fwd. You might get a wheel speed sensor error (might look like an and light) but I doubt it because it's so close.

Roumba
Jun 29, 2005
Buglord
Ok, several hours after filling it up and I don't see anything dripping out. I guess it's time to start it up and see if anything comes out then?

NitroSpazzz
Dec 9, 2006

You don't need style when you've got strength!


Start it and ideally let it idle up to operating temperature. Keep an eye on the temp gauge while also checking for leaks or new puddles. Turn off the a/c so you don't get a condensation puddle.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

It's also possible someone had refilled that bottle you ran over with something else.

But an 02 would use plain old green coolant, at least the 4 cylinders did. Pretty sure the 6s did too. With it being that low, just grab some cheap 50/50 premix ("ready to use") coolant, the old school green stuff. Get a new radiator cap too, that's probably why you're missing coolant - it probably stopped holding pressure/sealing a long time ago.

Potato Salad
Oct 23, 2014

nobody cares


Is there a Prius owners thread? I've come into a 2012 Prius from an estate and need to ask y'all what should be included in a 100,000 tune-up / cleaning

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Potato Salad posted:

Is there a Prius owners thread? I've come into a 2012 Prius from an estate and need to ask y'all what should be included in a 100,000 tune-up / cleaning

It would be in the manual in the glovebox.

Sorry for someone you know dying.

Potato Salad
Oct 23, 2014

nobody cares


VelociBacon posted:

It would be in the manual in the glovebox.

Appreciate the thoughts! I'm drunk and didn't think to check the manufacturer's schedule.

'Suppose I'm also looking for undocumented pitfalls. My very cursory reading indicates that the US gen 2 /Japan gen 3 Prius is Dead Heckin' Solid, so perhaps there won't be anything outside the manual to check.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah I think for a Prius you just replace the batteries when they die, replace the tires when you hit the wear bars, brakes and oil annually

In the before times Uber drivers in my city were regularly getting 350,000 miles out of them

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

The manual is also available here: https://www.toyota.com/owners/resources/warranty-owners-manuals.prius.2012

They have a very thorough explanation of what’s needed in the Warranty and Maintenance Guide, but here’s the 100,000 mile interval in a nutshell:
- Check installation of driver’s floor mat
- Inspect and adjust all fluid levels
- Replace cabin air filter (solar power ventilation system only)
- Replace engine oil and oil filter 1
- Replace engine/inverter coolant 3
- Rotate tires
- Visually inspect brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs

If the car is driven on dirt roads or dusty roads:
- Inspect ball joints and dust covers
- Inspect drive shaft boots
- Inspect engine air filter
- Inspect steering linkage and boots
- Tighten nuts and bolts on chassis and body

I’d give it all a good read, but it was pretty much this the whole way to the interval. No major items in between that I saw, so you’re not at risk of having missed something important. And yes, they’re all but bulletproof automobiles.

Mister Kingdom
Dec 14, 2005

And the tears that fall
On the city wall
Will fade away
With the rays of morning light
Can anyone recommend a decent bluetooth code reader?

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

Mister Kingdom posted:

Can anyone recommend a decent bluetooth code reader?

The high end most compatible one would probably be the OBDLink MX+, but what kind of vehicles are you trying to connect to and what do you want to do? Just read codes?

Mister Kingdom
Dec 14, 2005

And the tears that fall
On the city wall
Will fade away
With the rays of morning light

Kia Soul Enthusias posted:

The high end most compatible one would probably be the OBDLink MX+, but what kind of vehicles are you trying to connect to and what do you want to do? Just read codes?

2002 Saturn SL1 - just want to read codes. Nothing fancy.

What else can you do with one?

Mister Kingdom fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jun 6, 2022

Kia Soul Enthusias
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom
Toilet Rascal

Mister Kingdom posted:

2002 Saturn SL1 - just want to read codes. Nothing fancy.

What else can you do with one?

Not really sure of the full implications but newer cars have fancier networks you can access and stuff. @STR would an SL1 have CANBUS at all? Or special GM codes?
I think probably the most basic Amazon one would serve you well although most of them are the most cheaply made thing possible, not sure if there is a leader currently?

edit: Oh yeah what kind of phone do you have? Android or iOS? Not sure if that matters anymore but it used to.

Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 02:54 on Jun 6, 2022

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

I've found the Amazon listings will tell you what phone OS is needed.

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