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MatildaTheHun
Aug 31, 2011

here's the thing donovan, I'm always hungry
Hey friends, y'all basically built my last PC, so why not ask for help. My current build is dying and the PSU is more than 2 years past warranty, so it's time to start from scratch.

I'm not much of an enthusiast, so I don't want to deal with overclocking and such. My goal is to hit 1440p/144hz with new games which I'm pretty sure this thing is irresponsibily future proofed for, but I have a nice sign-on bonus and a vacation got cancelled thanks to 3 people getting covid, so whatever. This is a parts list I whipped up with a friend who works at a MicroCenter so the price should be lower with the employee discount. The final cost from MicroCenter is around $1900, which is fine. I'm more looking for any obvious glaring stupid fuckups that I'm not aware of, or a change that would save money without too much compromise.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor ($286.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X53 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB FTW3 ULTRA GAMING LE iCX3 Video Card ($1217.99 @ EVGA)
Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case ($154.99 @ Adorama)
Power Supply: Corsair HX Platinum 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($168.36 @ Amazon)
Total: $2498.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-06-02 13:52 EDT-0400

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priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

Butterfly Valley posted:

what does your heart tell you

Yeah pretty much..

Looks like there are a couple potential options to try at least:

https://openrgb.org/

And

https://signalrgb.com/

it seems like all the components except the fans are supported by those and it may have support for those via the pwm hub not sure.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

MatildaTheHun posted:

Hey friends, y'all basically built my last PC, so why not ask for help. My current build is dying and the PSU is more than 2 years past warranty, so it's time to start from scratch.

I'm not much of an enthusiast, so I don't want to deal with overclocking and such. My goal is to hit 1440p/144hz with new games which I'm pretty sure this thing is irresponsibily future proofed for, but I have a nice sign-on bonus and a vacation got cancelled thanks to 3 people getting covid, so whatever. This is a parts list I whipped up with a friend who works at a MicroCenter so the price should be lower with the employee discount. The final cost from MicroCenter is around $1900, which is fine. I'm more looking for any obvious glaring stupid fuckups that I'm not aware of, or a change that would save money without too much compromise.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor ($286.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X53 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB FTW3 ULTRA GAMING LE iCX3 Video Card ($1217.99 @ EVGA)
Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case ($154.99 @ Adorama)
Power Supply: Corsair HX Platinum 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($168.36 @ Amazon)
Total: $2498.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-06-02 13:52 EDT-0400

I would try to grab a 3080 12GB instead of a 3080 Ti. The performance difference between the two is quite small (less than 10%), and you can get one on Newegg for $800, which is probably a lower price than what your friend's employee discount will even give you. The Newegg one is backordered, but the ship date is yesterday, so I'm assuming the line isn't very long (it was just regularly in stock until recently).

The build overall is pretty overkill, but you're getting a really good price on it thanks to your friend, so it's hard to complain.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

MatildaTheHun posted:

Hey friends, y'all basically built my last PC, so why not ask for help. My current build is dying and the PSU is more than 2 years past warranty, so it's time to start from scratch.

I'm not much of an enthusiast, so I don't want to deal with overclocking and such. My goal is to hit 1440p/144hz with new games which I'm pretty sure this thing is irresponsibily future proofed for, but I have a nice sign-on bonus and a vacation got cancelled thanks to 3 people getting covid, so whatever. This is a parts list I whipped up with a friend who works at a MicroCenter so the price should be lower with the employee discount. The final cost from MicroCenter is around $1900, which is fine. I'm more looking for any obvious glaring stupid fuckups that I'm not aware of, or a change that would save money without too much compromise.

PCPartPicker Part List

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 3.4 GHz 8-Core Processor ($286.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X53 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($199.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory ($169.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($189.99 @ Amazon)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB FTW3 ULTRA GAMING LE iCX3 Video Card ($1217.99 @ EVGA)
Case: Lian Li PC-O11 Dynamic ATX Full Tower Case ($154.99 @ Adorama)
Power Supply: Corsair HX Platinum 850 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($168.36 @ Amazon)
Total: $2498.29
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2022-06-02 13:52 EDT-0400

if i was spending that much right now i'd probably go 12th gen tbh. it has a slight performance advantage that might matter at 1440p with a 3080ti - slightly longer expected longevity. if i was building new i'd go for 12th gen in basically any gaming scenario unless i was splashing out for a 5800X3D which is kind of an oddity and i don't recommend unless you have money to burn, arguably the best and most interesting gaming CPU available rn tho.

echoing a 3080 is a better product than a 3080ti from a price/performance perspective by a lot. if you were going to spend a fortune go big with a 3090 and get that stupid vram or go sane with some kind of 3080, imo.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
with that said it's not like ryzen is bad at all, just that 12th gen has enough of a performance advantage it's easier to recommend. if you prefer AMD or the stability of the platform for whatever reason fair enough.

Mozi
Apr 4, 2004

Forms change so fast
Time is moving past
Memory is smoke
Gonna get wider when I die
Nap Ghost
It's still a bit of a funny spot because people have lots of problems with DDR5 XMP right now and you have to choose DDR4 or 5 when you choose the motherboard, whereas AM4 while not getting new stuff is very mature and (generally) rock solid. So you can either spend a bunch of money on a great AM4 setup that won't be upgradable later on, or spend even more money on a 12th gen DDR5 system that may not run as well as it should and give you a bunch of headaches for a while until various issues get ironed out with firmware updates and so on. Personally I went with AM4 for my recent build but being in a period of transition it's hard to say if that was the most efficient choice or not. And frankly for my use it's generally the GPU that's the limiting factor anyways so if you could build with the option of a later GPU upgrade (get a larger PSU than you may need now etc) that still uses PCIe4 that'll probably get some more good years out of it.

Mozi fucked around with this message at 20:29 on Jun 2, 2022

err
Apr 11, 2005

I carry my own weight no matter how heavy this shit gets...
I've never installed case fans before.

I have a Lian Li Lancool II Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case and 5 Artic P12s.

I should put 3 intakes on the front, and 2 exhausts on the top and 1 exhaust on the back, is that right?

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

err posted:

I've never installed case fans before.

I have a Lian Li Lancool II Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case and 5 Artic P12s.

I should put 3 intakes on the front, and 2 exhausts on the top and 1 exhaust on the back, is that right?

most important thing generally is positive pressure, which means that all intake is filtered. that means you want more intake than exhaust. i went with basically yours but instead the tops intook so 5 intake and 1 exhaust because i was concerned about recirculation and i could put the exhaust pretty far from the top fans. beyond that most configs should be good. keep an eye on which fan header you plug each in if you wanna adjust them in the bios

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011



CoolCab posted:

most important thing generally is positive pressure, which means that all intake is filtered. that means you want more intake than exhaust. i went with basically yours but instead the tops intook so 5 intake and 1 exhaust because i was concerned about recirculation and i could put the exhaust pretty far from the top fans. beyond that most configs should be good. keep an eye on which fan header you plug each in if you wanna adjust them in the bios

This.

Dust in your fans / gpu is really annoying, be positive.

Or do 3 in, 2 out.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

err posted:

I've never installed case fans before.

I have a Lian Li Lancool II Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case and 5 Artic P12s.

I should put 3 intakes on the front, and 2 exhausts on the top and 1 exhaust on the back, is that right?

That's a lotta fans. The fans the case ships with are, as far as I know, pretty decent. If this is the non-RGB version you got with two 140s in the front, one configuration you could do is swapping those stock fans to the top as exhaust, and then doing three P12s in the front as intake and two more P12s on the PSU shroud as intake. Mounting fans on the PSU shroud usually doesn't do a lot in most cases, but the Lancool II Mesh has a partially mesh side panel, so there's a lot of air you can pull in from the bottom there. This would be 5 intake, 3 exhaust, a truly absurd amount of fans. You should totally do it.

edit: Don't mean to be rude, but I don't think the above advice is considering the Lancool II Mesh's specific fan mounting situation.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4494086

Asus 3060 with a 750W fully modular gold PSU for $435. That's a very good deal and basically makes for an MSRP 3060 when you consider how much the PSU is worth.

grack
Jan 10, 2012

COACH TOTORO SAY REFEREE CAN BANISH WHISTLE TO LAND OF WIND AND GHOSTS!

err posted:

I've never installed case fans before.

I have a Lian Li Lancool II Mesh ATX Mid Tower Case and 5 Artic P12s.

I should put 3 intakes on the front, and 2 exhausts on the top and 1 exhaust on the back, is that right?

Three intake at the front

One exhaust vertical at the back.

One exhaust horizontal at the back.

Do NOT put a top mounted exhaust at the front of the case. All you're going to do is exhaust the air coming in from the front fans before it reaches the CPU. It's at best pointless, and at worst it will negatively affect CPU temps.

I'm also wondering why you're replacing the fans that came with your case. They're pretty good quality, and if you're not going to use them you should have just bought a cheaper case .

Agreed
Dec 30, 2003

The price of meat has just gone up, and your old lady has just gone down

spunkshui posted:

This.

Dust in your fans / gpu is really annoying, be positive.

Or do 3 in, 2 out.

Even with positive pressure I'm finding that dusting is still pretty frequently required to keep the case really dust-free because mesh fronts aren't really dust-filter small, I mean, they do some kind of a job and keep things like pet hairs etc. out for the most part but the holes are still pretty big... And even the external filter I made from a kit, while very helpful and certainly cutting down on the dust buildup, still has holes that are not really small enough to keep 100% of dust out. I'm starting to feel in principle it's not possible to keep all dust out, there'll always be some particles small enough to go through the filter as long as airflow remains any kind of priority which obviously it needs to for performance. At least the tiny-sized dust that gets through the filter and the mesh is very easy to blow out, and it certainly reduces the rate of buildup considerably over just the mesh front.

I even remember having issues when I used one of those demciflex filters, which has super small holes. Gat dang dust.

Agreed fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Jun 2, 2022

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

grack posted:

Three intake at the front

One exhaust vertical at the back.

One exhaust horizontal at the back.

Do NOT put a top mounted exhaust at the front of the case. All you're going to do is exhaust the air coming in from the front fans before it reaches the CPU. It's at best pointless, and at worst it will negatively affect CPU temps.

I'm also wondering why you're replacing the fans that came with your case. They're pretty good quality, and if you're not going to use them you should have just bought a cheaper case .

I don't think it would be that bad, though admittedly the only reason I didn't recommend going with just one top exhaust is because I felt like my recommended config of five intake would create so much positive airflow that it would be mostly irrelevant either way.

Agreed posted:

Even with positive pressure I'm finding that dusting is still pretty frequently required to keep the case really dust-free because mesh fronts aren't really dust-filter small, I mean, they do some kind of a job and keep things like pet hairs etc. out for the most part but the holes are still pretty big... And even the external filter I made from a kit, while very helpful and certainly cutting down on the dust buildup, still has holes that are not really small enough to keep dust out. I'm starting to feel in principle it's not possible to keep all dust out, there'll always be some particles small enough to go through the filter as long as airflow remains any kind of priority which obviously it needs to for performance. At least the tiny-sized dust that gets through the filter and the mesh is very easy to blow out, and it certainly reduces the rate of buildup considerably over just the mesh front.

Yeah, it's basically impossible to have a truly dust-free system. You're going to want to take a duster to your computer every so often no matter what, and the amount of filtration just determines how long you can wait between dustings.

Grand Fromage
Jan 30, 2006

L-l-look at you bar-bartender, a-a pa-pathetic creature of meat and bone, un-underestimating my l-l-liver's ability to metab-meTABolize t-toxins. How can you p-poison a perfect, immortal alcohOLIC?


Yup. Trying to keep perfectly dust free is a fool's errand, but filtered intakes and positive pressure certainly help. It doesn't get nearly as dusty in there as it did before the filtered days. I clean my filters every couple months and the inside maybe once a year.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
oh yeah my advice is 100% generic, not case specific

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?
This may have more to do with fan placement than quality, but fwiw, the stock fans in my lancool 2 mesh are quieter than the p12s I added beneath the GPU (above the power supply). Those p12s become a little loud for my taste at ~600 RPM and above, but sometimes are noisy even below that. They make this low whistling-like noise. Only happens occasionally, so I think it has something to do with the specific airflow arrangement.

But I'd like to add that those extra fans, beneath the GPU, really do make a difference to GPU temps.

loquacius
Oct 21, 2008

guys I am now in possession of the largest surge protector I have ever seen in my life

If this motherfucker doesn't actually protect me from surges then my surges are simply too powerful to be protected from and I guess I'm buying a new computer every time there's a power outage

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Prompted by this thread's dust discussion, I just yanked out my PC and cleaned it out myself. It's a P400A with two 140mm fans as intake and one 120mm as exhaust. The P400A is a metal mesh case with no dust filter, much like Lian Li's mesh cases except it has a smaller hole size with a smaller hole pitch to compensate. My computer room is what I'd consider a moderately high-dust environment, and it's been 4 months since I last cleaned the tower. Despite that, it was surprisingly clean. There was definitely a thin layer of dust on the surface of everything, but there wasn't anything clogging up any of the heatsinks or anything. Just a couple blows of my duster and a quick wipe-down was all it took to get it back to looking like new. So I dunno, metal mesh isn't so bad as long as you blow it out a couple times a year, though I guess Lian Li's cases will probably let in more dust than Phanteks'.

mom and dad fight a lot
Sep 21, 2006
Probation
Can't post for 30 days!
This is going to be a weird-rear end question, but are there useful things you can attach to VESA mounts other than monitors and laptops?

I'm humming and hawing between a 3-monitor and 4-monitor stand. I only have 3 monitors right now, but the stands aren't much different in price, so I'm considering getting the 4-monitor one in case I can use it later.

Or MAYBE there's something else I can do with an extra VESA mount that I haven't thought of, like how this thread showed me that 5.25 drive bays are actually fun and cool and good.

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

mom and dad fight a lot posted:

This is going to be a weird-rear end question, but are there useful things you can attach to VESA mounts other than monitors and laptops?

I'm humming and hawing between a 3-monitor and 4-monitor stand. I only have 3 monitors right now, but the stands aren't much different in price, so I'm considering getting the 4-monitor one in case I can use it later.

Or MAYBE there's something else I can do with an extra VESA mount that I haven't thought of, like how this thread showed me that 5.25 drive bays are actually fun and cool and good.

Yes! One thing is the really small form factor PCs often have a VESA bolt pattern on them so you can mount them to stuff. This was really handy with lab benches where I worked. That wouldn't be too useful in your case though.

Something like a tablet mount where you put a magnet on the back and clip it on to the stand maybe?

Rinkles
Oct 24, 2010

What I'm getting at is...
Do you feel the same way?

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Prompted by this thread's dust discussion, I just yanked out my PC and cleaned it out myself. It's a P400A with two 140mm fans as intake and one 120mm as exhaust. The P400A is a metal mesh case with no dust filter, much like Lian Li's mesh cases except it has a smaller hole size with a smaller hole pitch to compensate. My computer room is what I'd consider a moderately high-dust environment, and it's been 4 months since I last cleaned the tower. Despite that, it was surprisingly clean. There was definitely a thin layer of dust on the surface of everything, but there wasn't anything clogging up any of the heatsinks or anything. Just a couple blows of my duster and a quick wipe-down was all it took to get it back to looking like new. So I dunno, metal mesh isn't so bad as long as you blow it out a couple times a year, though I guess Lian Li's cases will probably let in more dust than Phanteks'.

Well mine's a giant snow globe of dust, but I have a lancool ii mesh and the misfortune of living in a more than moderately high-dust environment.

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Yeah, it's basically impossible to have a truly dust-free system. You're going to want to take a duster to your computer every so often no matter what, and the amount of filtration just determines how long you can wait between dustings.

It's not impossible, but it would require better filters than cases normally have.

Years ago we decommissioned a Pentium computer at work that had been in use for about a decade, and we were surprised how clean it was inside. The case had a single fan, an intake at the PSU with a foam filter. The problem is how to get enough air through that kind of filter for a powerful computer. It might need more area than a case front can provide.

Broken Machine
Oct 22, 2010

For zero dust, you just need a fanless case, they do make those. I have one and it is and will remain basically dust-free, and should be fine for a decade+

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

1TB Gen 4 NVMe bundled with 32GB of DDR4-3200 CL16 for $165 ($180 - $15 coupon), a pretty dang good price if you're in the market for both: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...9&creative=9325
(update: the $15 off coupon is gone, but it's still a pretty okay deal for $180. Think of it as a 32GB kit for $100 and a 1TB gen 4 NVMe for $80)

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4494086
Asus 3060 with a 750W fully modular gold PSU for $435. That's a very good deal and basically makes for an MSRP 3060 when you consider how much the PSU is worth.
Add to this:
CPU: Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK400 66.47 CFM CPU Cooler ($30.00 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI PRO B660M-A WIFI DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($139.99 @ GameStop)
Case: NZXT H510 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $414.96

And you got yourself a complete 12400/RTX 3060/32GB/Gen4 NVMe system for $1029. Not bad. You couldn't dream of such a price just 4 months ago.

lordofthefishes
Mar 30, 2008

01000111 01010010 01000101 01000101 01010100 01001001 01001110 01000111 01010011 00100000 01000110 01000101 01001100 01001100 01001111 01010111 00100000 01000011 01000001 01001110 01000001 01000100 01001001 01000001 01001110 01010011

Broken Machine posted:

For zero dust, you just need a fanless case, they do make those. I have one and it is and will remain basically dust-free, and should be fine for a decade+

*stares in silverstone*

https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=525&area=en

mom and dad fight a lot
Sep 21, 2006
Probation
Can't post for 30 days!

priznat posted:

Something like a tablet mount where you put a magnet on the back and clip it on to the stand maybe?

You know that would be a good idea for a cell phone. Thanks!

spunkshui
Oct 5, 2011




That thing looks absolutely amazing but also super out of stock after a couple of quick searches. I wonder why they decided to stop making them because they seem like a great option for people that don’t want RGB.

MatildaTheHun
Aug 31, 2011

here's the thing donovan, I'm always hungry
Thanks for the advice, think I have a settled build that'll last a few years at least. Hopefully this time I'll actually upgrade it instead of letting it sit until absolutely everything is shot

mastershakeman
Oct 28, 2008

by vyelkin

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Add to this:
CPU: Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor ($159.98 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK400 66.47 CFM CPU Cooler ($30.00 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: MSI PRO B660M-A WIFI DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($139.99 @ GameStop)
Case: NZXT H510 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Best Buy)
Total: $414.96

And you got yourself a complete 12400/RTX 3060/32GB/Gen4 NVMe system for $1029. Not bad. You couldn't dream of such a price just 4 months ago.

What would a build like this have cost this past winter? Really considering pulling the trigger before it disappears

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem

mastershakeman posted:

What would a build like this have cost this past winter? Really considering pulling the trigger before it disappears

during the worst of it the 3060 alone was at least double that. back in march 2021 they were estimated in the 830ish range for street price, and eventually almost all the retailers pushed it up almost that high.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

mastershakeman posted:

What would a build like this have cost this past winter? Really considering pulling the trigger before it disappears

If you got lucky and won a newegg shuffle, you probably paid like $800 for a 3060 and an overpriced gigabyte power supply that might explode on you. Otherwise on ebay the 3060 sold for over $800. The CPU and motherboard might've cost you an extra $40 - $50 altogether. Slower Gen 3 SSDs were $120 for 1TB. The memory was probably the same. You'd be paying maybe $1500 or more for a 3060 rig of that caliber if going DIY, but some people were buying worse prebuilts for around $1300.

I posted that build because I think it's a good value if you're looking for a solid 1080p machine. So obviously I think you should pull the trigger if that's the kind of computer you're looking for. :v:

Dr. Video Games 0031 fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Jun 3, 2022

priznat
Jul 7, 2009

Let's get drunk and kiss each other all night.

mom and dad fight a lot posted:

You know that would be a good idea for a cell phone. Thanks!

Magsafe charging would be cool!

Ryuga Death
May 14, 2008

There's gotta be one more bell to crack
Fun Shoe
I don't know if this is the right thread to be asking this but I was maybe looking into buying/building a new pc within the next few months if possible, but either way, my main monitor is the Acer XB271HU 27 in. 1440p 144hz.

I've been out of the loop when it comes to hardware or current resolutions (bought that monitor back in 2016), so for my next pc build, should I be focusing on 4k and also get a 4k monitor or is aiming for 1440p high frame rates still the sweet spot? I have a three monitor set up but the other two are 1080p monitors that are like 24 or 27 inches, I forget, but I only play games on the 1440p.

Again, sorry if I shouldn't be asking this here.

CoolCab
Apr 17, 2005

glem
this is the PC building thread bud! you are allowed to ask pc building related questions :)

this is kind of opinion, so you'll probably get a few, but in my opinion 4k high refresh rate is outside the reasonable in terms of cost, still. 4k generally is a huge, huge resource hog. the component that will allow you to run more resolution is GPU and legit people have come in here asking "what should I get to run my new 120Hz 4k monitor!" and us all going okay how much money do you have, a 3090ti (the highest of the current stack) won't push that in all titles. not even close.

so yeah imo a 1440p is the sweet spot still. if you really have the itch and a very large budget you can go higher, or if you like mapgames or eye candy cinematic titles whatever where the framerate doesn't matter or wanna push 4k 60 that's more reasonable right now, a 3080 can do that OK. but beyond that we're not quite there. maybe the 40 series, allegedly coming soon, will do better.

Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Ryuga Death posted:

I don't know if this is the right thread to be asking this but I was maybe looking into buying/building a new pc within the next few months if possible, but either way, my main monitor is the Acer XB271HU 27 in. 1440p 144hz.

I've been out of the loop when it comes to hardware or current resolutions (bought that monitor back in 2016), so for my next pc build, should I be focusing on 4k and also get a 4k monitor or is aiming for 1440p high frame rates still the sweet spot? I have a three monitor set up but the other two are 1080p monitors that are like 24 or 27 inches, I forget, but I only play games on the 1440p.

Again, sorry if I shouldn't be asking this here.

1440p is the sweet spot still. I'd argue it was kinda enthusiast territory in 2016, but it's much more mainstream now. Concerning 4K, that resolution is certainly doable with modern high-end GPUs. Almost every game will run well at 4K with the settings maxed out on a 3080... except for Cyberpunk and maybe a few other recent AAA titles. I expect more games that are that demanding to come out eventually, and 4K will get tricky to drive for the 3080 within a few years. The next generation of GPUs is releasing later this year though, and I think I'd wait for those if you want to build a 4K gaming rig that will have good longevity.

Ryuga Death
May 14, 2008

There's gotta be one more bell to crack
Fun Shoe

CoolCab posted:

this is the PC building thread bud! you are allowed to ask pc building related questions :)

Yeah I still have the mindset that anything 4k is really expensive and requires a beefy machine to run anything but I also tend to not notice when trends have changed. I'm finally shopping for a tv for the first time in my life and it's really weird to see 4k tvs become the norm, so I was concerned if pc gaming had shifted as well.

Sounds like from what you're saying that 4k pc gaming is more realistic but still pricey.

Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

1440p is the sweet spot still.The next generation of GPUs is releasing later this year though, and I think I'd wait for those if you want to build a 4K gaming rig that will have good longevity.

I'm okay staying on 1440p, it sounds dumb but I was concerned with being left behind tech wise. I've seen some 1440p monitors with even higher refresh rates than what I have. Is that needed/important? I guess it doesn't matter what kind of build I have since if I get a higher end gpu, it'll perform fine in either 1440p or 4k?

Actually, is high refresh rate 4k monitors a thing? They must be really expensive.

Also, is AMD still better than intel?

Ryuga Death fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jun 3, 2022

lordofthefishes
Mar 30, 2008

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spunkshui posted:

That thing looks absolutely amazing but also super out of stock after a couple of quick searches. I wonder why they decided to stop making them because they seem like a great option for people that don’t want RGB.

Still in production, supposedly. I'd check with Silverstone themselves, they used to be super helpful for tracking down specific items.

Serotoning
Sep 14, 2010

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Ryuga Death posted:

I'm okay staying on 1440p, it sounds dumb but I was concerned with being left behind tech wise. I've seen some 1440p monitors with even higher refresh rates than what I have. Is that needed/important? I guess it doesn't matter what kind of build I have since if I get a higher end gpu, it'll perform fine in either 1440p or 4k?

From what I understand past 144Hz you get rapidly diminishing returns. Most pro eSports players will get a 240Hz monitor and just a few will get a 300+ Hz monitor, but for most of us muggles/regular folk 144Hz is fine. I would be happy to be told otherwise though.

Ryuga Death posted:

Also, is AMD still better than intel?

No, they are super competitive right now for the first time in a long time and it's a really great time to be a consumer therefore. For gaming/productivity builds most people in this thread recommend going 12th Gen Intel but you really can't go wrong with either tbh. That might change by year end as both companies release new product.

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Dr. Video Games 0031
Jul 17, 2004

Ryuga Death posted:

Yeah I still have the mindset that anything 4k is really expensive and requires a beefy machine to run anything but I also tend to not notice when trends have changed. I'm finally shopping for a tv for the first time in my life and it's really weird to see 4k tvs become the norm, so I was concerned if pc gaming had shifted as well.

Sounds like from what you're saying that 4k pc gaming is more realistic but still pricey.

I'm okay staying on 1440p, it sounds dumb but I was concerned with being left behind tech wise. I've seen some 1440p monitors with even higher refresh rates than what I have. Is that needed/important? I guess it doesn't matter what kind of build I have since if I get a higher end gpu, it'll perform fine in either 1440p or 4k?

Actually, is high refresh rate 4k monitors a thing? They must be really expensive.

Also, is AMD still better than intel?

Yeah, 1440p is still very common, especially if you're not buying the highest-end GPUs. Monitor tech has been kind of stagnant for a while now, unfortunately. Contrast is the main weakness of modern displays, and it's been something manufacturers have been struggling to improve on for a long time. To get a truly lifelike HDR experience where bright highlights are actually bright and blacks are actually black, you need something more than just LCDs. OLED is the obvious tech to use for that, except monitor manufacturers have stayed away due to the risk of burn-in. Now everyone's putting in mini-LED backlights that have hundreds/thousands of individually dimmable zones to enhance contrast, but this has proved to be very expensive, with 1440p displays using this tech costing well over $1000.

So, for everyone who doesn't want to drop four digits on a monitor, manufacturers are just jacking up the refresh rates and response times of their displays. But I would say that going over 144Hz is extremely unimportant unless you're into competitive multiplayer games. It CAN be nice (I have a 270hz 1440p display), but diminishing returns kick in hard after around 120Hz, and not even my 3080 Ti can drive frame rates over 200fps in most games. I would say that if your current monitor is still working fine, then I'd hold off on upgrading for now. Perhaps mini-LED displays will get better and become more affordable in the near future, or perhaps OLED will come to PC monitors in a big way. There's actually one single OLED gaming monitor that isn't just a rebranded LG TV: the Alienware AW3423DW, a 1440p ultrawide monitor. It's very good (with some downsides that bother some people more than others), but it's also $1300 and heavily backordered. There are some more monitors coming soon using the exact same panel (from MSI and Samsung) which may alleviate some of the supply bottleneck. But that's the kind of next-gen display tech we need to see more of.

4K high refresh is also a thing. There are several 144hz - 175hz 4K displays, such as the Gigabyte M32U and M28U, which are currently $730 and $580 respectively. Samsung is about to release a 240hz 4K display using their Neo QLED tech, which is a VA LCD with a dense mini LED backlight, but it's gonna cost ya $1500. Again, this is probably gonna be something that gets cheaper over the next few years, so I'd just wait it out until it does unless you really want to be on the bleeding edge (i'm kinda tempted, personally...)

As for CPUs, right now the 5800X3D is the best gaming CPU or at least tied with Intel's much more expensive and power-hungry 12900KS. Aside from that one CPU, Intel's 12th-gen lineup generally beats AMD's Zen 3 lineup when it comes to gaming. The 12600K and 12700K (or non-K) are fantastic gaming CPUs.

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