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Yeah, it's kinda wild they'd bolt it on out of the box. Like you said, 400s are a bit thin on the ground. When I was bullshitting with the guy that runs the machine shop I took my LQ block to, he brought up a potential plan of taking a 400 block, punching it out, and then stroking it to a 427 small block. Neat loving idea, but I'm all ears as to where to find a 400 block worth a drat, Norm.
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# ? May 28, 2022 20:00 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 02:01 |
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Boaz MacPhereson posted:Yeah, it's kinda wild they'd bolt it on out of the box. Like you said, 400s are a bit thin on the ground. When I was bullshitting with the guy that runs the machine shop I took my LQ block to, he brought up a potential plan of taking a 400 block, punching it out, and then stroking it to a 427 small block. Neat loving idea, but I'm all ears as to where to find a 400 block worth a drat, Norm. then you still wouldnt have the 6-bolt mains, roller valve train, modern gaskets, and great factory heads that already come with the LQ. not to mention the unlimited junkyard donors if anything happens, unlike the 400, as noted you can make a 400 good, but why bother?
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# ? May 28, 2022 20:06 |
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Raluek posted:then you still wouldnt have the 6-bolt mains, roller valve train, modern gaskets, and great factory heads that already come with the LQ. not to mention the unlimited junkyard donors if anything happens, unlike the 400, as noted Exactly. Sorry about your carbs, Norm. https://i.imgur.com/2CFWiIM.mp4
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# ? May 28, 2022 20:09 |
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Accord got a new Varta battery E91 got its summer Michelins on
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# ? May 28, 2022 20:12 |
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7.3 stuff today. HPOP is on, plenums are replaced, valley is cleaned for the millionth time. Went through the engine harness and depinned the vestigial intake heater and EBPV connectors. The fuel line kit I got is missing one of the four lines from the bowl to the corners of the head so I can't put on the beautiful new turbo until I get the replacement. I guess I'll just move onto injectors & cups tomorrow morning and probably put the fuel bowl back on afterwards.
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# ? May 29, 2022 03:45 |
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13 days until I leave for Power Tour. What needs to be done on the C10: Install throttle bracket: one I bought won’t fit Bleed brakes: fronts have air in them after replacing the lines again Install new AC condenser Install new AC accumulator Put the blower internal vents back in Put the dash cover back on Take it for an alignment Take it to an exhaust shop to sort out the leaks and weld in a bung for the O2 sensor Take it to AC shop for new lines to be made and hopefully fill it with R134a Clean out the bed and cab Wash it Fiddle with the sniper so it stops idling at 1400 rpm Reinstalled the fuel tank and made sure the new AN line for the fuel was secure. Finally have a filler neck that fits and doesn’t leak. https://youtu.be/jehtX70fKjQ Yes I know it sounds like a diesel with the exhaust leak and it is running rich because I haven’t been able to drive it so it will self tune. Installed the GPS speedo as well. I am pretty such a lot of stuff will get missed but I really want AC else I will have to figure something else out.
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# ? May 29, 2022 18:28 |
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BigPaddy posted:it is running rich because I haven’t been able to drive it so it will self tune. IME the self-tuning on these systems produces a driveable map, but nothing that can match an actual dyno tune.
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# ? May 29, 2022 19:16 |
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Right but it hasn’t even been able to do the basic stuff because I haven’t been able to load the engine by driving. The bottom end systems are not really for someone who is looking for max performance anyway. If you were running a super sniper that does work with the laptop software and all that then get a dyno tune otherwise you are playing with the hand held screen and messing with it.
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# ? May 29, 2022 21:15 |
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Found the PO installed the fuel filter on backwards (it's got IN and OUT written on it, how can you mess that up braniac). Fixed both of those, and replaced the blown fusible link (at least two gauges in smaller than the wire its attached to, 125% of current) Also tested the fuel pump. Gotta get a vacuum gauge to double check, didn't feel anything with a thumb test. Thinking i'm on track to getting her to turn over sooner rather than later. Got spark, i'll have fuel by the end of next month for sure, and the carbs ok.
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# ? May 30, 2022 01:48 |
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Started it and ran it for about half an hour, have a few things to work out but top of the list is that it isn't charging.
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# ? May 30, 2022 02:31 |
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Internally regulated but needs 12v to turn on and a voltage feed to know how much power to send into the circuit? That bit me recently when I ordered something advertised as a one wire alternator but nope it was a three wire.
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# ? May 30, 2022 02:33 |
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BigPaddy posted:Internally regulated but needs 12v to turn on and a voltage feed to know how much power to send into the circuit? That bit me recently when I ordered something advertised as a one wire alternator but nope it was a three wire. I was also guessing along those lines too. It has a main charge wire and a plug with 3 wires that are connected to the swap harness. Time to figure out what those do
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# ? May 30, 2022 02:46 |
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What is the alternator out of, and what PCM are you running again? Also, what year model. Hondas are a bit special with their charging systems though; that should be a 4 pin plug, not 3 (or maybe they left the control [C] wire out of the plug, hoping that would force the alternator to go into high output mode). And if that's a reman alternator (which it appears to be judging by the sticker on it), who the gently caress knows what the voltage regulator will do without C connected. Some quick and dirty Google suggests leaving C disconnected from the alternator might get you 14V, but you'll need to disconnect the battery for a bit before doing that, and it may not be reliable. I think supplying ~+2V to that wire should kick it into high output mode (14V), but without remembering what everything is out of I'm at a bit of a loss. Also, if you're getting 12.8-12.9 with the engine running, it IS charging, but it's in "low" mode. If you have AC in it, turning the AC on (or telling the PCM the AC is on) is enough to kick it into high mode (14V), assuming you're not running a third party engine management system. What happens if it's blipped up to ~3500ish? Does voltage change? BigPaddy posted:Internally regulated but needs 12v to turn on and a voltage feed to know how much power to send into the circuit? That bit me recently when I ordered something advertised as a one wire alternator but nope it was a three wire. Honda is weird; they're internally regulated, but rely on input on one wire to decide if they should charge at 12.9 or 14. Low mode can easily be mistaken for battery voltage. My own poo poo. Slapped AC gauges on the Vic since it's getting pretty hot here (we've already broken 100 a few times, and we broke over a dozen daily high temp records in May alone), wanted to make sure it was still fully charged. Low side is a little low, high side a bit high, but it's frosty cold out of the vents, pressures equalize within 1 minute of shutting down. 75 degree ambient at the time, condenser is starting to shed some fins, PCM was only commanding 50% engine fan speed... so I think it's probably fine given the circumstances? If not, I guess I need to be proactive about finding a blockage before it becomes more of an issue. Or replace the condenser soon. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 15:33 on May 30, 2022 |
# ? May 30, 2022 14:35 |
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STR posted:What is the alternator out of, and what PCM are you running again? Also, what year model. Hondas are a bit special with their charging systems though; that should be a 4 pin plug, not 3 (or maybe they left the control [C] wire out of the plug, hoping that would force the alternator to go into high output mode). And if that's a reman alternator (which it appears to be judging by the sticker on it), who the gently caress knows what the voltage regulator will do without C connected. It's a new K24 Denso and everything is running on a Haltech Elite 1500 without AC. It definitely wasn't charging, voltage dropped to 9v before I turned it off Fortunately, someone else somehow made the same mistake I did and told me to check my fuse box relays. I'd moved the EFI2 relay to some other unused spot by accident while removing my Harrop supercharger kit, moving it back and I've got a good 14v+ charge going while running You've got an interesting point about it only running in high mode. I think you're right, I need to look and see if there is a way to add the 4th pin to the connector to control that. Thank you https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHYH_IMKZdA BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 18:44 on May 30, 2022 |
# ? May 30, 2022 18:04 |
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Sounds really good. I'm a confirmed B series fanboi but the Ks are so goddamn nice. How is programming on the Haltech? Is ECU programming something you've done before or is it relatively easy for an amateur?
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# ? May 30, 2022 20:06 |
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Panty Saluter posted:Sounds really good. I'm a confirmed B series fanboi but the Ks are so goddamn nice. I think it is running really rich at the second. About to go for the first drive but it has no fuel pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator on the surge tank is set to 60psi, and the ECU is expecting 43.5psi. Going to fix that and a couple other things then drive. Haltech integrates with the stock BRZ CAN stuff, fortunately, so everything works as stock including push button start. I ran it on my turbo Miata before this so I was a little familiar with it, but it seems pretty user friendly.
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# ? May 30, 2022 22:07 |
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Hell yeah congrats on getting it up and running. How does haltech handle the cam position tuning? I know on kpro there are fuel and ignition maps for low cam and high cam for iirc every 10deg of advance. It winds up with like 20 maps total.
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# ? May 30, 2022 22:25 |
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honda whisperer posted:Hell yeah congrats on getting it up and running. The switched cam timing is done with a few parameters for min load and rpm and max load and rpm, I think you can have correction maps for it but Haltech abstracts needing that away out of the box. VTC is done with a RPM to TPS map and PID settings. I am 100% nowhere near knowledgeable to tune this thing, to be clear First drive went really well, I'm not taking it out again until I get a catch can hooked up though (misted oil everywhere, was overfilled by a quart because I'd expected to have to fill the oil cooler but blah blah). At first I'd forgotten to plug in my wideband after moving the ECU to its final home and it felt like my FA20 bolt-on car, I was kinda like alright. Plugged in the o2 and it is now what I was expecting It'll probably be pretty good after a visit to the local tuner. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 23:18 on May 30, 2022 |
# ? May 30, 2022 23:16 |
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My own poo poo is pretty mediocre in comparison, but I ran across someone that yanks the keyless entry antennas and door modules for Crown Vics (that's a hell of a thing to specialize in, but he also deals with a lot of interior trim stuff). Turns out adding it to my car is literally plugging in the antenna and flipping a bit in FORScan, but I managed to turn on TPMS at the same time (so wound up with a "no remotes programmed" DTC, and 1 DTC for each wheel missing a sensor). Had to dig through the CVN forums (and reddit) a bit to figure that out, but got TPMS turned back off. Ford uses the same receiver for keyless entry and TPMS; later P71s had TPMS, 07 P71s didn't (but the civilian ones could have it optioned). Had to add a wire to the door module plug so it can pop the trunk, but he included a wire with the correct pin, just had to snap it in. I could have grabbed everything from a junkyard, but in the end it would have cost about the same as what he charged me, if not more. Fixed my driver's door speaker. Turns out the speaker plug adapters Crutchfield sent aren't water resistant - the connectors were full of water. Had to cut quite a way back on the factory wire to find uncorroded wire, then used heat shrink crimps. Nice having 5 working speakers again. Now to just wait on Amazon to show up with my keyfobs, then I'll find out if I flipped the right bits in FORScan. The door module is throwing a "no remotes programmed" DTC, and I can go into keyfob programming in FORScan now (before I couldn't, said the car wasn't equipped). I can enter programming by flipping the ignition on/off 8 times now too, so I'm pretty sure I got the programming correct. 06-07 CVPIs have a plug for the receiver, but they don't have the wiring to the RR C pillar - so you just plug it in at the door module and put the receiver in the door somewhere. I buried it under the window switches.. BlackMK4 posted:It's a new K24 Denso and everything is running on a Haltech Elite 1500 without AC. It definitely wasn't charging, voltage dropped to 9v before I turned it off Always a good thing when someone has made the same mistake before you! Switching to low mode is more meant for when you have less than a 15 amp draw (basically idle with nothing on), it drops down to 12.9V. It might be good to free up a tiny bit of power if you're hammering it, but it won't be able to keep up for long. BlackMK4 posted:Haltech integrates with the stock BRZ CAN stuff, fortunately, so everything works as stock including push button start. Oh man that's awesome, so it even retains all the security stuff? (like it won't start if you don't have the fob on you)
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# ? May 31, 2022 13:41 |
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Tuner got back to me. I didn't have the pin for for the flex fuel sensor seated fully and the exhaust needed retorqued. Should be done this week.
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# ? May 31, 2022 18:10 |
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STR posted:My own poo poo is pretty mediocre in comparison, but I ran across someone that yanks the keyless entry antennas and door modules for Crown Vics (that's a hell of a thing to specialize in, but he also deals with a lot of interior trim stuff). Turns out adding it to my car is literally plugging in the antenna and flipping a bit in FORScan, but I managed to turn on TPMS at the same time (so wound up with a "no remotes programmed" DTC, and 1 DTC for each wheel missing a sensor). Had to dig through the CVN forums (and reddit) a bit to figure that out, but got TPMS turned back off. Ford uses the same receiver for keyless entry and TPMS; later P71s had TPMS, 07 P71s didn't (but the civilian ones could have it optioned). Had to add a wire to the door module plug so it can pop the trunk, but he included a wire with the correct pin, just had to snap it in. I could have grabbed everything from a junkyard, but in the end it would have cost about the same as what he charged me, if not more. I love the beautiful people that track everything down to make an install like that super easy. What a nice thing. All the security stuff works, traction control, etc. 100% like a factory car, kinda surprised.
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# ? May 31, 2022 22:07 |
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Went to move the C10 about today and the shifter has come out of its hole in the frame so it won’t out of park. This thing wanted to stay dead I am certain. However once I put it back in the rattle I though was an exhaust leak went away soooo yay? There is an AC place around the corner from me I am going to see if they will take it in to make the lines and charge the system and put all the vents in. Then an alignment and we should be good to go. Odds on me getting out of Arizona before it ends badly?
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# ? May 31, 2022 22:10 |
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BlackMK4 posted:I love the beautiful people that track everything down to make an install like that super easy. What a nice thing. $30 for the receiver, harness, and the pin + wire to add to the driver door module to pop the trunk - LKQ would have charged me at least as much for the receiver alone. $15 for a set of knockoff keyfobs from Amazon w/same day delivery. Fobs just showed up, so I tried programming them. I didn't get the trunk release right (had to add a pin to the DDM plug, apparently you need to disassemble the plug to get it all the way in - I can hear it clicking though), but otherwise everything is working. Need to go back into FORScan and enable confirmation flash on the lights too, but both of those sound like a job for tomorrow. Too drat hot outside to deal with right now, but goddamn it's nice having keyless entry again. The crownvic.net how-to guide on it makes it seem a lot harder than it is, and the programming instructions on there (for FORScan) are incorrect (the bits they have you toggle also enable TPMS, which my car never had - I could get the sensors, but it's a 1st gen TPMS system.. not worth it).
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 02:19 |
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This last weekend I removed the "heavy" part of of a Miata to start an Exocet. Then made it SEMA ready.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 07:15 |
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I'm gently fuming over how clean the underside of that Miat is... So jealous.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 11:12 |
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Exocets are so much fun, light cars are the best
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 12:33 |
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I rolled bedliner onto the bed of my 1993 Toyota Pickup. The bed has tons of battle scars. At one point a battery leaked after tipping over. The acid burned the paint off of one of the valleys between a pair of bed "ribs" on the driver's side. I went with Rustoleum because it was $9 for a gallon size can at Home Depot a couple months ago. I bought three gallons and use it on anything that might get wet or that needs grip/traction. Mostly I've used it to paint a very heavy duty creeper I built, the cabinet under our kitchen sink, and the floor of another cabinet where my wife puts away pots and pans that are not always 100% bone dry. Picture time. If the weather holds up I'll probably put a third coat on it after work this evening. I did the first coat during my lunch break yesterday and was kind of rushed. I did the second coat after my wife got home from work and it was starting to get dark outside. I think that's why there's a weird looking spot in the near the front of the driver's side wheel hump. PBCrunch fucked around with this message at 17:34 on Jun 1, 2022 |
# ? Jun 1, 2022 14:41 |
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First drive of the C10 and yeah… that is spunky. Like smoke the tires at 40mph spunky.
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# ? Jun 1, 2022 15:45 |
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Cleaning out the final bore for the 7.3 injector cups. Doing this poo poo in the truck with the cab on loving blows. The old 620 is so hard the first step is a 90 degree pick and on the back cylinders on the passenger side that means a pick and a light and a mirror.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 01:24 |
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Yerok posted:Cleaning out the final bore for the 7.3 injector cups. Doing this poo poo in the truck with the cab on loving blows.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 04:09 |
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BigPaddy posted:First drive of the C10 and yeah… that is spunky. Like smoke the tires at 40mph spunky. Need video of this. For science.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 04:35 |
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PBCrunch posted:I rolled bedliner onto the bed of my 1993 Toyota Pickup. The bed has tons of battle scars. At one point a battery leaked after tipping over. The acid burned the paint off of one of the valleys between a pair of bed "ribs" on the driver's side. I don’t own a truck, but I want some bed liner now. Does it make shoving all the pots around easier? For my own misadventures, I charged my brother’s battery and figured out why the convenience opening stopped working on my Golf. I guess if you disconnect the battery with the windows down it needs to be recalibrated by holding the window switch up (closing it if open) for at least two seconds twice. Whatever, it now works again.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 05:46 |
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nitsuga posted:For my own misadventures, I charged my brother’s battery and figured out why the convenience opening stopped working on my Golf. I guess if you disconnect the battery with the windows down it needs to be recalibrated by holding the window switch up (closing it if open) for at least two seconds twice. Whatever, it now works again. That's so German, it hurts.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 05:54 |
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Full Collapse posted:That's so German, it hurts. Surprisingly it is discussed in the owner’s manual. Now let me go tighten up my POÄNG’s bolts for the nth time.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 13:02 |
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nitsuga posted:I don’t own a truck, but I want some bed liner now. Does it make shoving all the pots around easier? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=maPyEmWHY-4
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 13:54 |
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Full Collapse posted:That's so German, it hurts. It’s how basically any car with auto-up windows works.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 19:54 |
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STR posted:$30 for the receiver, harness, and the pin + wire to add to the driver door module to pop the trunk - LKQ would have charged me at least as much for the receiver alone. $15 for a set of knockoff keyfobs from Amazon w/same day delivery. Fobs just showed up, so I tried programming them. I'm a bit jealous. I had to install an aftermarket system (remote start security) to get keyless. That said, 1) I already had it from 2001 when I worked at a mobile electronics shop and got it at cost for our van, then uninstalled when we traded it in, 2) remote start. Was still a pain. Remote starts are a *lot* of wires. Besides "remote start" one of the nice things about a remote start is the powered antenna that gives you silly range. Olympic Mathlete posted:I'm gently fuming over how clean the underside of that Miat is... So jealous. I'm guessing you live where rust exists. So nice not to. PBCrunch posted:I rolled bedliner... the cabinet under our kitchen sink, and the floor of another cabinet where my wife puts away pots and pans that are not always 100% bone dry. This is brilliant. I'm using the spray-on, but may buy some roll-on for the floors of my RX-7 to replace the original asphalt sheet sound deadener that likes to let water creep under it after 30 years, which causes he hated iron oxide, of course. Full Collapse posted:That's so German, it hurts. Nowhere near enough a Byzantine process to be properly German. They should be having to cycle the ignition while holding the hazard switch and turning on the wipers twice or something.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 23:01 |
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My wife’s old VW Tiguan had to have some body work done as she hit a post. The guy took the door off and noticed that the auto up/down harness was disconnected so checks the other side and yep it is not plugged in either. Turns out that if you have the package with auto up abs down windows all they do it plug the wires in while it is being built.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 23:04 |
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BigPaddy posted:My wife’s old VW Tiguan had to have some body work done as she hit a post. The guy took the door off and noticed that the auto up/down harness was disconnected so checks the other side and yep it is not plugged in either. Turns out that if you have the package with auto up abs down windows all they do it plug the wires in while it is being built. Makes me wonder sometimes, how much poo poo is in cars and trucks these days for options that weren't installed/available on a specific trim level. Like is there one body wiring harness for everything and then the factory adds (motor for X feature, sensor for Y feature) and so on for example. My truck on specific option packages comes with a locking rear diff. I've wondered sometimes if the wiring is there and I just need to install a few mechanical bits and pieces, and a switch in the cab and not have to hack the poo poo out of the wiring harness et-al because there is already wiring there for it. Probably not, but a guy can dream.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 23:15 |
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# ? May 15, 2024 02:01 |
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You might not be too far off. It's cheaper to produce a single variant of a wiring harness than multiples, and it cuts down on mistakes in production. Economy of scale and whatnot. A few manufacturers have moved to reducing the number of unique variants of parts so upgrading us usually as simple as plugging in the missing expensive components (motors, switches, heating elements, speakers, etc) and potentially flipping a bit in software to enable the feature.
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# ? Jun 2, 2022 23:36 |