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RadioPassive posted:Oh I'm not sending them to Slavvy until I've tried it myself and made the whole situation much much worse. Standard rate: $100/hr If you want to watch: $120 If you want to help: $140 If you tried it yourself and hosed it up: $140 + rear end gas or grass In all seriousness they're slightly different but if you've done a cartridge equipped conventional fork, you'll manage a normal Japanese usd no problems. The hardest part is setting the oil level and reassembling the cap onto the rod if you haven't got a pulling-up tool thingy (this is the technical term btw). You can solve this problem but spending $10 at a fastener shop by buying a long bolt and a tube nut with the same thread as the top of the damping rod.
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May 28, 2022 22:07
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What street tires or tire review platforms are good (preferably in Europe for availability reasons)? I need to replace the default Dunlop Roadsport 2 on my Z650 so I wanted to check if I should get something else.
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May 29, 2022 23:15
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So far i really like the Battlax T32. Used to have Michelin Pilot Road, but they make cornering much harder.
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May 30, 2022 16:32
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Get your pirellis skkkrt’ing.
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May 30, 2022 20:06
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Angel gt, the answer is almost always angel gt.
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May 30, 2022 21:16
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Slavvy posted:Standard rate: $100/hr Out of curiosity, do you know if non-dealer mechanics would actually go for that? Baltimore had a coop where the mechanic actually WOULD let you watch him work for some quantity I forget, but I don't know if it was just because he was the one nut who does that, or if it's something that happens on the reg. (I mean I know you're in NZ so who the gently caress knows about the rest of US, but what's your general impression?)
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May 30, 2022 21:53
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It really depends on the guy and on you. Generally good mechanics are too stressed and busy for that bullshit, but they also tend to care a lot and want other people to care too. So if you can convince them you have a sincere desire to understand and they like you I don't see why not? Fwiw my ideal situation would be teaching motivated people to do this stuff, hands-on, for free. I fix fuckwit bikes for money because I live under capitalism, not because I like it. I can't be the only guy out there like this but idk how you'd locate them
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May 30, 2022 22:09
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If anyone's interested I'll share my views on the topic. I've been a mechanic for about 12 years and I've taught classes on bike fixing. I'm generally willing to let someone watch me work and talk to them about it if they ask and if the job isn't huge. It's a distraction even if you know what you're doing, so I don't want to overload myself. And just watching isn't necessarily helpful, you may not really learn unless someone is explaining what they're doing as they go. Did you even notice when the mechanic stuck her finger into the wheel bearings after taking it off the bike for a tire change? Did you know she was feeling to see if the bearings moved smoothly and she thought they were ok so she didn't do anything with them? The pay-to-watch-a-mechanic thing is rather rare in my experience, although it's probably a good way to learn if someone offers that service. Most places would not be cool with it, but I think it doesn't hurt to ask. Just be prepared to hear a no. I'm of a split mind on the "fixing other people's mistakes" thing as Slavvy mentioned. Depending how it goes and what you're expecting and what the pay is, it can be fine or it can be a nightmare, in my experience. Our shop has seen a recent influx of vintage Harleys, which was unusual before, because of other shops in the area closing down I think. We've spent a looot of time on them recently because almost all of them have been fuckwit bikes. Fuckwit bikes with multiple fuckwits over the course of decades. The range of things wrong with them has been just crazy. Sometimes it's a real bitch to deal with and they're mostly not exactly fun to work on. The designs and manufacturing are not great. In contrast to an old BMW or most old Japanese bikes I mean. On the other hand, so far everyone who's brought us these bikes has been fairly easy to deal with and understands that this category of bike can get crazy with repair bills. So like hey, it's my job to fix problems, I'm finding problems and fixing them, as long as the customer and I are on the same page with the whole process, does it matter where the problems originated?
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May 30, 2022 22:33
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There's a moto workshop thing in SF where you can take classes to learn how do to stuff, and they also have work benches with tools etc you can rent by the hour. https://www.motoguild-sf.com I've never used it because I didn't know this existed until a month ago. They do require you take a class for some of the things because you are allowed to use it, for example their tire changing machine.
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May 30, 2022 22:39
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I did this with the rover shop. I really enjoyed teaching people about their cars. If the owner didn't care I didn't bother. But if they were curious I'd show em everything I knew. Sometimes it was fear or anxiety from not knowing what's going wrong with a vehicle, sometimes helping someone to be better armed with information when they'd take their vehicle into a shop so that they don't get screwed in the rear end. I dabbled around with teaching others in various other mediums later on like metalworking, electronics, and such. Its extremely rewarding, which is good, because little else about working in a shop is.
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May 30, 2022 22:41
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Does anyone use a Quadlock mount with the universal phone adapter (the sticky back one)? I gave mine a test on my mountain bike and the double sided tape let loose after a big bump. I'm assuming I just did a bad job sticking it to my phone case.
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May 31, 2022 03:51
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Just install a kickstarter and you'll have all the motivation to fix your own bike and learn along the way.Deeters posted:Does anyone use a Quadlock mount with the universal phone adapter (the sticky back one)? I gave mine a test on my mountain bike and the double sided tape let loose after a big bump. I'm assuming I just did a bad job sticking it to my phone case. I have the sticky back one on my work provided iphone (lol get rekt camera) for about two years now. Has been fine on my Ninja 650 and DRZ, both of which are fairly reminiscent of a paint shaker. If the phone gets hot maybe the glue is weakening? Mine is attached to the faux leather case so it might insulate the glue a little. I also have mine on the vibration damping mount on top of the Qi charger (yes I have a LITERAL mountain of electronics on my handlebar, it's like 4" tall) on both bikes, so I'm also kind of isolated from the handlebars which may help. That said, if you have a common phone their actual phone-specific cases are pretty nice, if nothing to write home about, so give that a shot. I decided on the sticky back because I realized I didn't give a flying gently caress if my work phone goes flying off my handlebars or gets turned in back to the office with a big sloppy spot of sticker residue, so I cheaped out and got the sticky-back mount instead. When I ran with my personal phone as GPS I had the nicer case. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 12:06 on May 31, 2022 |
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May 31, 2022 12:03
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Deeters posted:Does anyone use a Quadlock mount with the universal phone adapter (the sticky back one)? I gave mine a test on my mountain bike and the double sided tape let loose after a big bump. I'm assuming I just did a bad job sticking it to my phone case. I have it and stuck it directly to the rubberized case with little prep (I think I did an alcohol wipe) and it works perfectly. If you are concerned, you could just drive some rivets through the case and universal mount.
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May 31, 2022 13:45
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I'm using an old Pixel 2 which they definitely didn't have a specific case for. I put the sticker on a LifeProof case with the alcohol wipe, but it's sounding like user error still. Maybe I'll grab some good 3M double sided tape.
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May 31, 2022 16:45
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Phy posted:I didn't know Revzilla had parts fiches, I've been using Bikebandit or Ron Ayers for the same purpose. Typically what I do is find the part on Bikebandit, and then feed the Kawasaki part code to a local dealer because up here they're almost always faster and cheaper for OEM than buying something online from the States. SPEAKING OF BIKEBANDIT! It appears they went into bankruptcy in February but still kept the website up and running and accepting orders. https://jalopnik.com/motorcycle-parts-seller-bikebandit-has-stolen-646-000-1848823954
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May 31, 2022 23:26
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Phy posted:SPEAKING OF BIKEBANDIT! It appears they went into bankruptcy in February but still kept the website up and running and accepting orders. "sorry, forgot to turn the website off" loving scum
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Jun 2, 2022 15:24
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Lol it's right in the name
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Jun 2, 2022 16:00
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Still up and presumably still taking orders.
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Jun 2, 2022 16:17
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It looks like their inventory is all completely listed as backordered now, meaning you cant add it to a cart and buy it, so it at least looks like they're feeling some heat here, which is good
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Jun 2, 2022 16:58
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I found that my throttle cable housing rotates slightly with some throttle use such as heavy acceleration or going WOT. Not drastically, but over a day’s use I have found it starts to overlap the starter button. I had wrapped electrical tape on the handlebars before tightening the housing to keep exactly this from happening, when I installed the controls onto my handlebars, but it seems to not have had much effect. The housing is as clamped down as I can get it. Any suggestions here? Maybe electrical tape is the wrong material, or maybe I just need more of whatever material I have? In the mean time I’ll probably just ziptie the housing to the mirror if I can figure out how. some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Jun 3, 2022 |
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Jun 3, 2022 15:54
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I use strips of soda can aluminum or bicycle inner tube rubber. Never had to shim a throttle grip though.
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Jun 3, 2022 16:55
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Oh that inner tube is a really good idea and something I probably have lying around already. The throttle tube itself is buttery awesome, it's just the housing that is being weird.
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Jun 3, 2022 16:57
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If it's a factory part, it will at some point have had a small locating lug that goes into a corresponding hole in the bar. What you can do is locate the stump of that lug, put in a small self tapping screw with a ground-down head, drill the corresponding hole in your bar and then you don't have to worry about bodging tape or whatever on there. Works way better.
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Jun 3, 2022 18:14
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Factory throttle housing but aftermarket bars. Will have to see whether that's still an option, but if I have to take it apart to check I might as well just get ready to drill the hole and/or add a screw either way. . Thanks!
some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jun 3, 2022 |
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Jun 3, 2022 19:05
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Is there anything to be wary of regarding adhesive tank protectors? I'm not keen on the aesthetics but the SO is endangering the tank pretty bad every mount/dismount. I don't want to do more harm than good though if the sun's going to fade the Triumph's paint around it or I won't be able to remove it cleanly with goo gone some day, maybe scratches are preferable.
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Jun 3, 2022 20:16
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Remy Marathe posted:Is there anything to be wary of regarding adhesive tank protectors? I'm not keen on the aesthetics but the SO is endangering the tank pretty bad every mount/dismount. I don't want to do more harm than good though if the sun's going to fade the Triumph's paint around it or I won't be able to remove it cleanly with goo gone some day, maybe scratches are preferable. Clear wrap or full on Bagster tank cover? e: the wrap will cause different fade unless you get all of it done.
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Jun 3, 2022 22:29
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Smaller, one of the pads with adhesive backs, you see cheapies more often with aggressive position bikes, this is the one I’m heading for https://shop.triumphcleveland.com/store/#!/Triumph-Self-Adhesive-Durable-Rubber-Tank-Pad-A9790140/p/125972557
Remy Marathe fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jun 4, 2022 |
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Jun 4, 2022 00:58
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I wouldn't trust any adhesive to not gently caress up your paint long term. If the bike spends any amount of time in the sun the area under the protector will be darker and will never match again. I don't like those protectors, IMO you're much better off keeping the rear area of the tank clean and free of dirt that will get ground into the paint by your crotch/stomach/chest area. Keep that area clean and keep wax on it.
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Jun 4, 2022 14:07
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If you don't like the look of the thing you're adding to the bike to protect the thing you like the look of (and the protection will gently caress up the paint in a totally different way anyway), I'd question the point of doing it at all, like what are you actually protecting at that point Gorson posted:IMO you're much better off keeping the rear area of the tank clean and free of dirt that will get ground into the paint by your crotch/stomach/chest area. Keep that area clean and keep wax on it.
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Jun 4, 2022 14:20
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 This is a 34 year old Hawk sprocket that will not come off. Someone at some point had taken a shot at removing it, the two 10mm bolts that hold the retainer on were stripped out then rusted over. I had to grind the heads and parts of the retainer off in order to get it to spin for removal, but the sprocket will not budge. The retainer was very crusty, definitely a rust issue. Current options: 1. Apply more force to the claw puller. It feels like if I go any farther the tool will break. 2. Add heat. The issue here is that rubber cushion, I can't get good heat on the sprocket without removing and it is old and crusted on. I could melt it off, creating a giant flaming mess. I can also add heat via welding (idea courtesy of Cursedshitbox). This is the best way to get maximum heat where I need it, but is more of a nuclear option. Ultimately I'm ok with sacrificing both this sprocket and retainer, I've got replacements. 3. Attempt to dissolve the rust. I've been hosing it with penetrant, but if there's a way to dissolve some of the rust it should come off. Evapo-rust in a little spray bottle? Muriatic acid? Not sure if these will get down in the splines. 4. Clean up the old retainer, put it back on, tack weld the retainer to the sprocket. This is effectively the same thing as re-bolting it back on. The sprocket itself has tons of life left in it and could outlast the life of the bike. I just don't like leaving problems for later. Renaissance Robot posted:If you don't like the look of the thing you're adding to the bike to protect the thing you like the look of (and the protection will gently caress up the paint in a totally different way anyway), I'd question the point of doing it at all, like what are you actually protecting at that point Yeah, to me it's like putting one of those plastic covers on your couch.
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Jun 4, 2022 14:22
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Do you have an air hammer you can give it a couple braps with while under tension from the puller?
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Jun 4, 2022 15:02
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Renaissance Robot posted:If you don't like the look of the thing you're adding to the bike to protect the thing you like the look of (and the protection will gently caress up the paint in a totally different way anyway), I'd question the point of doing it at all, like what are you actually protecting at that point It reminds me of the frame sliders that bend your frame when you fall over. Gorson posted:
You won't break the tool or the sprocket, rust is not stronger than hardened high tensile steel, I would just saturate it in penetrating fluid and keep cranking on it. I would try tapping on the puller shaft with a hammer (not super hard) while applying more tension to try to jog it loose in case it's sort of jammed up on an angle.
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Jun 4, 2022 18:06
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Slavvy posted:It reminds me of the frame sliders that bend your frame when you fall over. Sounds good. If the tool breaks it breaks, my only worry here is causing damage to the countershaft, if it gets damaged the motor is done. Should I attempt to get heat on it or does that put the countershaft seal at risk?
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Jun 4, 2022 23:54
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I would do what slavvy says and also don’t do this part:Gorson posted:3. Attempt to dissolve the rust. I've been hosing it with penetrant, but if there's a way to dissolve some of the rust it should come off. Evapo-rust in a little spray bottle? Muriatic acid? Not sure if these will get down in the splines.
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Jun 5, 2022 01:01
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Gorson posted:Sounds good. If the tool breaks it breaks, my only worry here is causing damage to the countershaft, if it gets damaged the motor is done. Should I attempt to get heat on it or does that put the countershaft seal at risk? I honestly don't know if heat will help you, I think the output shaft will just suck it in and dissipate it into the rest of the engine, I think if you got it hot enough to make a difference you'd obliterate the seal and potentially endanger the heat treatment on the shaft. Another way to do it would be to cut the sprocket off with careful application of a Dremel/angle grinder/die grinder.
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Jun 5, 2022 01:08
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I notice when my bike's warmed up, it idles steady at 1000 rpm most of the time, except once in a while after coming to a stop, it idles high at 1200. I can hold the brake and let out the clutch a bit to drag it back down to 1000, and after doing so it says at 1000. Does this sound like a throttle cable problem? Or is it running lean (and I should do an idle drop procedure with the a/f screw)? It's a stock carbed Sportster.
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Jun 5, 2022 03:04
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It sounds like it's a tiny bit lean on the pilot yeah, if the exhaust isn't stock but the carb is, this is to be expected. Note: your carb has an accelerator pump so be aware that giving it a fistful will momentarily greatly richen the mixture, this doesn't affect the results or the method but you just need to be more patient. You could try just giving it a quarter turn richer and seeing what happens. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Jun 5, 2022 |
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Jun 5, 2022 03:22
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Gorson posted:Yeah, to me it's like putting one of those plastic covers on your couch.
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Jun 5, 2022 04:48
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Found what I am assuming is a nail in my rear wheel, what are my options? The wheel is nearly new and I have half a mind to just leave it, but this is on a bike and I like my safety so I am thinking that's a terrible idea. Pull & plug? Or is a replacement the only real option?
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Jun 5, 2022 19:34
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I once mailed Michelin about it because i was in the same situation, and this was their (translated from Belgian Dutch) reaction: quote:As we agreed upon, we have escalated your question, and below you will find the answer from our technical department: So Michelin says you can definitely repair tires, on the condition that you check the inside of the tire for damage, the size of the hole is not too big, and you use mushroom plugs. In my case, i wanted to get it fixed, but the local bike shop outright refused to do it. The guy on the phone says they don't really have experience with it, and that they just normally replace the tire. They were prepared to do it on special request but sounded super unsure of themselves, explicitely denying responsibility if something goes wrong, so i ended up replacing the whole tire after all. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Jun 5, 2022 |
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Jun 5, 2022 19:56
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