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It’s also pretty gross to use up some brake pads and return them. I get it for things like a window regulator but consumables? Have some self respect.
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Jun 4, 2022 07:44
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Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers
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GentlemanofLeisure posted:I just don't understand how they make money while doing this. I know they have a markup but their prices are very competitive. Maybe a lot of people just don't take them up on it, but they don't hide that they offer this service. KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:it also is an extremely effective way to dominate the market. even if a part were cheaper on ECS or whatever, i would still buy it on fcpeuro for this reason. Steering rack in the E30 was pitted and rusty, too much to bother rebuilding. Was able to find a couple people with old racks sitting on the shelf from when they did various rack swaps. Have two racks headed to the shop, at least one of them should be good or rebuildable. Going to be an expensive final bill but I want to get everything addressed before listing the car.
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Jun 4, 2022 10:48
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:It’s also pretty gross to use up some brake pads and return them. I get it for things like a window regulator but consumables? Have some self respect. It clearly isn't hurting them. They specifically tell people how to warranty oil.
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Jun 4, 2022 15:40
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Cojawfee posted:It clearly isn't hurting them. They specifically tell people how to warranty oil. Its similar to LL Bean's old lifetime warranty. They would warranty anything they sold no strings attached. It was absolutely something they used to justify higher prices for their gear. If you showed up with a 15 year old hiking shirt that was in absolute tatters they would refund it for full value. For a long time most people wouldn't take them up on it because most people would be ashamed to do that. If they felt they got a good life out of the product they would just come in and buy a new shirt. That worked for them for a long time but they decided to end that policy in 2018 because people were abusing it to the point where it didn't make business sense anymore. Now they have just a 1 year guarantee. Hopefully people don't ruin FCP for the rest of us.
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Jun 4, 2022 18:42
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Did the i4 m50 drive today. Not a whole lot of time behind the wheel, but enough to get a taste. A good experience for the price. 3 sets of 3 laps on a ~15 sec course. They had us use the high regen mode, which effectively applies trail braking to all the turns and sharpens that turn-in bite. Helps hide the weight a bit, along with gobs of power. I suspect this trick won't work as well in a full track environment, but it'd be more than enough to impart a sporty feel attacking cloverleafs and canyon roads. There was also a chance to stomp the gas in an ix. Not as much giddyup as the i4, but it's not slow either. Didn't care for the interior styling, though.
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Jun 4, 2022 22:40
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SlapActionJackson posted:Did the i4 m50 drive today. Not a whole lot of time behind the wheel, but enough to get a taste. A good experience for the price. 3 sets of 3 laps on a ~15 sec course. They had us use the high regen mode, which effectively applies trail braking to all the turns and sharpens that turn-in bite. Helps hide the weight a bit, along with gobs of power. I suspect this trick won't work as well in a full track environment, but it'd be more than enough to impart a sporty feel attacking cloverleafs and canyon roads. Was this the BMW Autocross thing? I'm signed up for it later this month.
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Jun 4, 2022 22:41
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Residency Evil posted:Was this the BMW Autocross thing? I'm signed up for it later this month. Yep.
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Jun 4, 2022 23:08
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Good day for riding with the windows down in my EV - cool that you only hear the world outside
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Jun 5, 2022 23:34
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I need some help with my 1970 (recent rebuilt motor) BMW 2002. I brought it home after being in the shop for an engine rebuild (after which the mechanic gave me brake lights and a starter because the electrical was a melted mess). I've been rewiring everything and then I think blew out my pertronix because I wired my ignition coil wrong (i'm not sure really. It ran for a while then just stopped and wouldn't start again). I bought a 123 ignition distributor but I'm having trouble I think getting it put in right. I'm not a mechanic and if it would run even a little I'd take it in to the shop. I think I got it wired up right, and I aligned to what I think cylinder 1 is using some help from my mechanic over email (I don't want to ask him too many questions because it doesn't feel right as its his livelihood. He said to look below the distributor for a hole and look for the "OT" line. I had to spin the pulley by hand while my son was looking down and there's only a "TO" line. It still won't start and I verified that I'm getting a spark on cylinder 1 but I'm not sure if it's timed right. I'm also sure I have my firing order right My question is there another mark we're not seeing, and what the gently caress is "TO" because I can't for the life of me figure out how to get "TO" from "OT" without mirroring. It feels like it wants to start maybe, it's kind of making this "chuffing" noise. Would that be a symptom of me not finding cylinder 1 TDC correctly?
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Jun 6, 2022 00:41
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LegoMan posted:I need some help with my 1970 (recent rebuilt motor) BMW 2002. I brought it home after being in the shop for an engine rebuild (after which the mechanic gave me brake lights and a starter because the electrical was a melted mess). I've been rewiring everything and then I think blew out my pertronix because I wired my ignition coil wrong (i'm not sure really. It ran for a while then just stopped and wouldn't start again). Someone may have a better way to do this, but my foolproof way of finding TDC on cylinder 1 (nearest the radiator) is to take out all the spark plugs, take off the valve cover, and rotate the engine by hand until the valves on cyl 1 are totally closed (both all the way up). You can check by grabbing the rockers and wiggling them. If they move around a tiny bit, they're closed. You can also put a screwdriver into the (previeously clean of debris) sparkplug hole to make sure the piston is at the top of the cyl. I've had to do this on cars where the crank pulley either slipped or was labeled incorrectly, etc. If you're lucky, that hasn't happened and it will confirm your markings.
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Jun 6, 2022 15:29
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I've never removed a valve cover. I talked with my wife and I think I'm just going to finish up the wiring I was working on before and then tow it to the mechanic. I feel like I'm getting in too deep here and I don't want to end up with another 10k expenditure fixing my fuckups.
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Jun 6, 2022 17:00
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Even easier way to find top dead center on a cylinder. Pull spark plugs, drop the longest 1/4" straight thing you have into the spark plug hole, rotate engine slowly until object is sticking out the farthest. Take measurements if you want but you should be able to get get within a degree or two of TDC this way. See if it lines up with the TO/OT mark you're talking about. Did you pull the distributor or mess with things enough it would be possible to be 180 degrees out of time? Firing on the wrong stroke? edit: make sure whatever you use is too long to get stuck in the cylinder or has a flared base  A long screwdriver works well
NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Jun 6, 2022 |
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Jun 6, 2022 19:05
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Yeah, Wiggling the rockers is just to make sure it's not on the exhaust stroke. But if the long screwdriver trick works and it lines up with your timing mark, then you should be good. Oh, and TDC on cylinder 1 should have the rotor pointing to cyl 1 on the cap. If it isn't, you could be 180 out like NitroSpazzz says, or off a tooth or two on the distributor gear.
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Jun 6, 2022 20:32
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well after getting it as lined up as I'm capable of doing it still won't start. It looked like it was blowing back through the carb for some reason. There's a fuckton of black residue on the plugs and inside the carb. I'm done.
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Jun 12, 2022 14:37
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my rental bmw did the most bmw rear end thing when I went to pick it up  yes that is green fluid the guy said it was fine, then dipped his finger in it and made a strange grunting noise
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Jun 13, 2022 08:30
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coolant hose came loose? Or maybe they just overfilled the radiator? green fluid to me means coolant, but you know, BMW
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Jun 13, 2022 14:24
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yeah it was apparently coolant
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Jun 13, 2022 14:51
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Green coolant in a BMW means it's already had cooling system trouble before, and they took it to a hack that didn't know or couldn't be bothered to put the right coolant back in. Car is showing its displeasure by barfing it back up.
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Jun 13, 2022 14:55
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SlapActionJackson posted:Green coolant in a BMW means it's already had cooling system trouble before, and they took it to a hack that didn't know or couldn't be bothered to put the right coolant back in. Car is showing its displeasure by barfing it back up. i rented it from BMW themselves so lmao
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Jun 13, 2022 15:30
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Pr0kjayhawk posted:It’s also pretty gross to use up some brake pads and return them. I get it for things like a window regulator but consumables? Have some self respect. BMW window regulators are consumables though?
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Jun 13, 2022 16:45
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Big Taint posted:BMW window regulators are consumables though? Hahaha ok yeah that was a bad example. Funnily enough I had one that I replaced in 2020 go bad a year later.
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Jun 14, 2022 03:59
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Sweet, time for my second windshield replacement in 3 years! I'd love to blame this one on Colorado but Kansas got me this time. It's spreading over across the drivers side as we speak. I also missed the milestone I was going to hit on the trip. 
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Jun 14, 2022 05:26
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I'm unsure to what extent this is a BMW-specific question, but it applies to my BMW. I've got a G31 with run-flat tyres on and I deeply resent getting punctures. I just spent £260 replacing an almost-new rear tyre with loads of tread left. The guy who did it suggested I look into tyre sealant, but I have not used it before - is this something that'd work for my situation, if I get just a nail or a slow puncture? And is there anything in particular I'd need to look for?
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Jun 14, 2022 13:16
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:I'm unsure to what extent this is a BMW-specific question, but it applies to my BMW. A lot of repair shops won't patch a runflat because if you've run them down all the way to flat you've compromised the sidewall. If you've caught a slow leak and asked them to patch it you have a better chance. I've had luck with it but I assume it's because the people at the local tire shop know I'm not a total loving idiot trying to save a few bucks in exchange for making my car unsafe. My guess is the tire sealant suggestion is basically the shop telling you that they won't patch it and take liability but you're free to try any stupid thing that might work.
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Jun 14, 2022 15:10
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IMO, tire sealant goo is emergency use only. You want a patch or a plug for permanent tire repair. Note that if the puncture is in the sidewall or shoulder, the tire can't be safely repaired, so you'll have to replace those anyway.
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Jun 14, 2022 15:13
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I was aware of the damage to the sidewall if it runs on flat - my main reason for asking is the last two times this has happened have been when I've noticed the puncture before it's had any real effect and I haven't driven on flat. The most recent one I discovered when TPMS showed it having dropped to 25 PSI from 35 overnight - I filled it up again and it was fine again until the next day when it was at 25 again. The time before that I spotted the screw before any deflation had occurred and just went straight to a tyre place to get it replaced because I knew I'd have to anyway. Good to know about goo only being for emergencies.
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Jun 14, 2022 17:47
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Sir Sidney Poitier posted:I was aware of the damage to the sidewall if it runs on flat - my main reason for asking is the last two times this has happened have been when I've noticed the puncture before it's had any real effect and I haven't driven on flat. I’ve had a slow puncture on a runflat before which I kept the air topped up on, and I had to shop around until I found a garage who were willing to repair it after I explained it never deflated. Frankly the best thing you can do is dump the run flats and keep a can of tyre goo in the boot.
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Jun 14, 2022 18:11
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I've always had top 3 summer performance tires (PS1, PS2, etc) over the years on my prior BMW's, but my current F10 (2016 535 bought used in late 2019) came with new awful Dunlop SP Sport Maxx DSST runflats - that despite them getting the worst reviews imaginable on Tirerack - haven't actually been that awful. But I've only put like 5k miles on this car, though. They did do a really good job on a road trip with a nail picked up halfway though and Discount Tire in Norcal did a plug for free. I've put off dumping them since 2020 for obvious reasons but I'm gonna dump them in a few months though for some PS4's, a mini compressor and a can of goo.
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Jun 14, 2022 18:29
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Question for the e9x hivemind: Do any of you know the dimensions for the rear "spring pocket"? Like the ID of the cup and the OD, of the nub? I believe this same part fits 1's, 2's and X1's as well. E: This is the top pocket, that pins into the unibody and cups the coil spring. This thing:  Asking because I picked up some 166 reps off craigslist CHEAP, I'm not 100% sold on them, but, regardless, the rear is riding a little lower than I'd like. I have a hunch if I could get a spring pad in there, I could resolve some of the camber I have going on out back as well.   Here's the car with a 20mm spacer in the back, and while it looks pretty sweet, unfortunately, it rubs. Maybe a little more ride height might stop the rub (or at least push it out a little so I don't need the spacer in the first place).  
glyph fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Jun 17, 2022 |
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Jun 17, 2022 14:36
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Ask FCP Euro, they are insanely good at figuring out exactly which part you gotta buy (which makes sense bc they sell them)
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Jun 17, 2022 15:10
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:Ask FCP Euro, they are insanely good at figuring out exactly which part you gotta buy (which makes sense bc they sell them) Unfortunately it's not a stock part I need to buy (the only one stock is for the "poor road package", which was not only never available here, but is NLA even where it was available). I need to make a rubber shim spacer, like what the e30, 36 and 46 have (I'd cut the center out) to shim either inside the cup, like what the poor road package does (#5 in this diagram) to space the rear up a little: Inside:  Or outside, this this guy did for his e82:  Which is why those ID and OD dimensions are wanted. I might just go pull one at the local yard tomorrow, but, no jacks allowed in the yard, so I'm a little scared of the LCA releasing and the spring loving me up trying to get after it.
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Jun 17, 2022 15:29
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Just roll the rear fenders, that’s what I did, problem solved 
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Jun 17, 2022 18:04
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Ended up doing the BMW Autocross thing in Denver when they came by this past weekend. I'd previously done BMW M Track Days at Monticello and figured I'd see what this was like, which was essentially a dumbed down autocross as well as the opportunity to test drive various BMWs on the street. We're thinking about replacing a car in the next year or two and I wanted to see what driving an electric BMW was like. For the autocross, we drove the i4 m50 over the autocross course about 3 times. Not a ton of time to do much of anything, as the course is fairly short and gives you little chance to form more of an opinion than "man, electric cars sure can accelerate quickly," which is presumably their goal. I liked the i4 overall, and it might be a contender to replace our Macan at some point more so if it came in wagon form. Test drive wise, I took out the new iX mDrive50 (electric SUV) as well as the BMW X4M. iX: Really lovely for a family car. Acceleration was more than adequate (ie, more than you'd ever really need) and the ride was incredible. Plush, but steering felt direct and precise for a car this size. Interior seemed fine, albeit with some slightly cheap materials in places you wouldn't see/use often. Octagonal(?) steering wheel was kind of strange. BMW X4M: Last time I drove this was in '19 or so at M Track Days. Wanted to try this because the X3M is kind of interesting to me. Kind of a shock getting in to this after the iX since it's so different (especially with the stiff suspension). Interior is a bit cartoonish, especially with all of the carbon fiber because honestly, who's taking this to the track? In any case, it makes loud noises and that put a smile on my face. Not sure why someone buys the X4M over an X3M, however. To summarize the BMW Ultimate Driving Experience: go if you're bored, but you're probably not going to want to do it twice.
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Jun 27, 2022 17:49
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Residency Evil posted:Ended up doing the BMW Autocross thing in Denver when they came by this past weekend. I'd previously done BMW M Track Days at Monticello and figured I'd see what this was like, which was essentially a dumbed down autocross as well as the opportunity to test drive various BMWs on the street. We're thinking about replacing a car in the next year or two and I wanted to see what driving an electric BMW was like. For the autocross, we drove the i4 m50 over the autocross course about 3 times. Not a ton of time to do much of anything, as the course is fairly short and gives you little chance to form more of an opinion than "man, electric cars sure can accelerate quickly," which is presumably their goal. There’s a Macan EV coming in like 1-2 years.
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Jun 27, 2022 18:11
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Ok Comboomer posted:There’s a Macan EV coming in like 1-2 years. Yeah that may be the replacement/next car. Unless BMW brings an M3 Touring to the US.
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Jun 27, 2022 21:18
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Residency Evil posted:Yeah that may be the replacement/next car. i will buy a new BMW if this happens
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Jun 27, 2022 21:43
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:i will buy a new BMW if this happens Same. Toxx Together?
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Jun 27, 2022 22:09
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So you're saying you can forgive an ugly face for a big rear end?
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Jun 27, 2022 22:27
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KillHour posted:So you're saying you can forgive an ugly face for a big rear end? I have always been more of an rear end man.
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Jun 27, 2022 22:48
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Residency Evil posted:Same. yea
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Jun 27, 2022 22:52
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