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probably fine although might choke on higher resolution youtube or whatever. build it, see how it works and see if you wanna throw another couple bucks at idk a 730 or something.
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Jun 7, 2022 16:26
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Racing Stripe posted:I'm building an email/office/possible media watching PC for my girlfriend's mom using my old 6700K processor. Is there any need for me to add a low-end GPU or should I just count on the onboard graphics to get the job done? Just use the onboard graphics unless they play games or need more than two monitors. The most essential thing will be a SSD for the system disk.
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Jun 7, 2022 16:26
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Yeah, I’m putting in a 500 gb ssd. I’ll just offer to toss in a 730 if she notices any problems. Thanks pals.
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Jun 7, 2022 17:52
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Would a 750 Watt power supply be good for a 3080 and 5800x3d? The power supply is XPG core reactor 750 Gold https://www.amazon.com/XPG-Reactor-750Watt-Certified-COREREACTOR750G-BKCUS/dp/B07ZRWYMNW?language=en_US¤cy=USD&th=1 The 3080: is Gigabyte Gaming OC 10G https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GeForce-Graphics-WINDFORCE-GV-N3080GAMING/dp/B098TZ3RMZ
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Jun 7, 2022 20:09
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Arken_ca posted:Would a 750 Watt power supply be good for a 3080 and 5800x3d? 750W is Nvidia's recommended wattage for the 3080 10GB. That will likely be enough, yeah. Though I'd like to point out that there's a 3080 12GB available for $800 with a $30 mail-in rebate at Newegg: https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-3080-rtx-3080-ventus-3x-plus-12g-oc-lhr/p/N82E16814137712?Item=N82E16814137712 If you haven't already ordered that 3080, I'd just get the 12GB model instead. If you have ordered it, then I wouldn't worry too much about it, they're very close in performance.
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Jun 7, 2022 21:03
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:750W is Nvidia's recommended wattage for the 3080 10GB. That will likely be enough, yeah. Ok, good to hear. If there is an issue, it'll just shut down under stress, right? It won't end up hurting anything?
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Jun 7, 2022 21:15
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Correct. If there's an issue, it'll happen during transient loads (sub-millisecond power spikes) since your sustained load will be well below 750W. Power supplies that don't handle those as well will tend to shut down when they encounter such a spike. It's unlikely to happen, but if it does, you can try to avoid this by undervolting
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Jun 7, 2022 21:20
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My plan to reuse my old aftermarket cpu cooler is foiled because of course they had to changed the motherboard hole pattern. As a bonus the stock cooler that came with my 12400f absolutely will not mount to my motherboard. I can only get any two of the stupid plastic push ins to engage tenuously but no matter how much force I use I cannot get the other two in without the first ones popping out. Has anyone had this problem? MB is Asus prime b660.
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Jun 8, 2022 02:45
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Check the cooler maker's website, a lot of them will have mounting kits available for new CPU sockets that you can get either cheap or free if you email them.
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Jun 8, 2022 02:52
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Crimpanzee posted:My plan to reuse my old aftermarket cpu cooler is foiled because of course they had to changed the motherboard hole pattern. As a bonus the stock cooler that came with my 12400f absolutely will not mount to my motherboard. I can only get any two of the stupid plastic push ins to engage tenuously but no matter how much force I use I cannot get the other two in without the first ones popping out. Has anyone had this problem? MB is Asus prime b660. What's the aftermarket cooler you're trying to use? Most/all of the major brands are providing free LGA1700 kits for people with older coolers.
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Jun 8, 2022 02:53
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Crimpanzee posted:My plan to reuse my old aftermarket cpu cooler is foiled because of course they had to changed the motherboard hole pattern. As a bonus the stock cooler that came with my 12400f absolutely will not mount to my motherboard. I can only get any two of the stupid plastic push ins to engage tenuously but no matter how much force I use I cannot get the other two in without the first ones popping out. Has anyone had this problem? MB is Asus prime b660. Stupid question - you're rotating the tops of the push pins once you have them through the board to lock the pins in place, right?
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Jun 8, 2022 03:51
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Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:What's the aftermarket cooler you're trying to use? Most/all of the major brands are providing free LGA1700 kits for people with older coolers. Cooler master hyper 212 Evo. I read somewhere that the adapter kits they have won't work for that particular X mounting bracket. grack posted:Stupid question - you're rotating the tops of the push pins once you have them through the board to lock the pins in place, right? Yeah i tried that but with no more success than before and it's really not how they are designed to work. They're meant to push straight in and only to be turned counter clockwise to release for removal. I have all four contact points through the board but it does not feel great. A little bump and any one of them pop right back out. I will likely just buy another cooler rather than risk it coming loose.
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Jun 8, 2022 05:30
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The 3060/750W Gold PSU bundle for $434 is back in stock: https://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails?ItemList=Combo.4494086
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Jun 8, 2022 06:13
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Hey guys, I'm back. I've been checking out prebuilts and this site where I bought my monitor (which has been working nice) is having some discounts. Is 2600€ too much for a prebuilt with a 3080ti? My main concerns are no info on the mobo and the fact they charge 100€ for installing Windows (I know you can get licenses for cheap, but what about the installer?). Posting the link, it's in Spanish but the specs should be easy to understand anyways:https://www.pccomponentes.com/hp-omen-30l-gt13-1049ns-intel-core-i9-11900k-32gb-2tb-ssd-rtx-3080-ti If not good I'll look up some other places since their other stuff seems a bit undertoned for what they charge.
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Jun 8, 2022 12:25
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HP prebuilts are a big nono because they're almost as bad as Dell when it comes to using weird proprietary poo poo in their cases and crappy mismatched components. And otherwise yes €2600 is too high, that case is a hotbox and they only have a 120mm AIO cooling a 11900k so I'm pretty sure everything would be thermal throttling. Edit: from a quick browse over the rest of their prebuilts you're right, there's nothing great value. They have the same problem you see on most prebuilt vendors, where they automatically pair a high end GPU with the highest end CPUs and then bump the price up accordingly, which is a total waste of money if you're just gaming which iirc you are. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 13:31 on Jun 8, 2022 |
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Jun 8, 2022 13:21
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Yeah, thanks for the warning, I was guessing so. Didn't notice the HP on the name, I'll be on a better lookout on other sites. Gotta ask my sister for physical shops since she knows the city better than I do, in case I can find things cheaper there.
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Jun 8, 2022 13:38
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Another option could be ordering the parts yourself and paying a someone in a shop to assemble them for you? Pccomponentes had a 3080ti for €1299 which is RRP, and I can see 3070tis and 3080s on other Spanish sites for sane prices. Then you'd get exactly what you needed and not be paying a premium for poor quality or mismatched parts, without the stress of building yourself.
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Jun 8, 2022 13:55
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Ok, so, my ITX motherboard has finally arrived and I'm building this poo poo instead of doing work today. Super stoked! I have the CPU and cooler mounted on the motherboard, weird extra mounting kit and all, but this is the first build I've done since 2015, and the second one I've done ever, so I just wanted to sanity-check something. I am, in fact, supposed to hook any and all ATX power connectors on the mobo up to the power supply, right? This thing has an 8-point ATX12V1 connector and a 24-point ATXPWR1 connector; the fact that one of them mentions a voltage and the other one does not makes me anxious. Documentation is spotty at best but this seems like a pretty basic question for an actual human to be asked. e: here's a handy adventuring map 
loquacius fucked around with this message at 17:25 on Jun 8, 2022 |
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Jun 8, 2022 17:21
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Yeah it's just your standard 8 pin for the CPU and 24pin for the mobo. I don't know why they would throw extra labeling stuff in there.
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Jun 8, 2022 17:28
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you will need to plug both of them in. the one on the left is CPU power, and sometimes there will be two power connection ports for extreme overclocking and you only need one, but not on this motherboard. the 24 pin powers the rest of the motherboard.
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Jun 8, 2022 17:29
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KingShiro posted:Yeah it's just your standard 8 pin for the CPU and 24pin for the mobo. I don't know why they would throw extra labeling stuff in there. i wonder, does the 24 pin goes in sideways maybe? like an itx case quirk. very weird they drew the sockets on one and not the other.
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Jun 8, 2022 17:30
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Thanks, guys! That CPU connector is gonna be real hard to reach after I actually screw the motherboard to the case, so I wanted to find out if I needed to be hooking a plug up to it first.  still in awe at the (small) size of this lad. Was high-key afraid the entire motherboard/CPU/cooler monstrosity wasn't gonna all fit inside the case, but it looks like I'm set on that front at least.
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Jun 8, 2022 17:39
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CoolCab posted:i wonder, does the 24 pin goes in sideways maybe? like an itx case quirk. very weird they drew the sockets on one and not the other. Yeah that'd be a new way to do it I suppose, never seen it myself. Went ahead and ordered all my new PC parts. Going to be a bit of a wait for the RAM and nvme to arrive but everything else is going to be in hand this week.
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Jun 8, 2022 17:52
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Another question about my motherboard map: there is a little connector in the lower-right corner labeled PANEL1. The case's front panel (for the power button etc, seems important!) says to plug it into the FPANEL connector; this is apparently the preferred nomenclature. Is PANEL1 in fact the same? Its label in the mobo manual is "System Panel Header"; it appears to line up pretty well with the connector thing from the case's front panel (although it has all 10 holes where there are only 9 pins).
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Jun 8, 2022 19:00
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loquacius posted:Another question about my motherboard map: there is a little connector in the lower-right corner labeled PANEL1. The case's front panel (for the power button etc, seems important!) says to plug it into the FPANEL connector; this is apparently the preferred nomenclature. Is PANEL1 in fact the same? Its label in the mobo manual is "System Panel Header"; it appears to line up pretty well with the connector thing from the case's front panel (although it has all 10 holes where there are only 9 pins). yes
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Jun 8, 2022 19:09
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CoolCab posted:i wonder, does the 24 pin goes in sideways maybe? like an itx case quirk. very weird they drew the sockets on one and not the other. No, because the extrusion that attaches to the clip on the cable will orient the plugs regardless, and those are drawn in on both sockets.
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Jun 8, 2022 20:40
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well, this sucks I hooked up everything, have no remaining ambiguities, and the only sign that the thing works at all is that when it's plugged in (and the power source is switched on) a faint indicator light lights up around the power button on the case (Cooler Master NR200). I push the button, and nothing. Not a noise, not a spin of a fan, not a signal on a monitor, nothing. The one thing I can think of is that I was actually wrong earlier and the front panel connector actually only has 8 holes on it, where the port in question on the motherboard has 9 pins -- there's a 9th pin just sort of hanging out extraneously. You can see it in the bottom-right corner of the "map" I posted earlier. Should I have hooked that up differently? It just seems odd to me that the LED indicator light seems to be telling me whether the PC is plugged in rather than whether it's turned on and I would really think that if the problem was that my SSD from my previous (fried) computer is also fried, the new hardware would at least attempt to boot up rather than doing nothing whatsoever.
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Jun 8, 2022 22:33
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check connections, i have had similar issues and that sounds like a loose power connection somehow (check 24 pin in particular, make sure it's fully clicked in). there should be a manual boot pin somewhere on your motherboard that works just like your clear cmos pin.
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Jun 8, 2022 22:38
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loquacius posted:The one thing I can think of is that I was actually wrong earlier and the front panel connector actually only has 8 holes on it, where the port in question on the motherboard has 9 pins -- there's a 9th pin just sort of hanging out extraneously. You can see it in the bottom-right corner of the "map" I posted earlier. Should I have hooked that up differently? It just seems odd to me that the LED indicator light seems to be telling me whether the PC is plugged in rather than whether it's turned on It's possible you plugged it in upside down. The row with the 9th pin and the space where the 10th pin should be is useless so you don't want anything plugged in to that row. The front panel connectors are all presleeved together, so just unplug them all, rotate the cable 180 degrees and put it back into the same pins and try again. I have an nr200 and the front light only comes on when it's turned on, so from the behaviour in your case it sounds like something is hooked up wrong there. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Jun 8, 2022 |
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Jun 8, 2022 22:51
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Butterfly Valley posted:Another option could be ordering the parts yourself and paying a someone in a shop to assemble them for you? Pccomponentes had a 3080ti for €1299 which is RRP, and I can see 3070tis and 3080s on other Spanish sites for sane prices. Then you'd get exactly what you needed and not be paying a premium for poor quality or mismatched parts, without the stress of building yourself. I asked my sister to ask her friends about shops in the area so I'm probably checking them out cause I ain't having luck looking for prebuilts online... Best I found was from a site that apparently does their own builds, with a i9-11900K 5.3 GHz andRTX 3800 for around 2000€, but it looks like they slightly cheapen out on cooling and fanning according to comments (that one specifically has a NZXT KRAKEN 120 ARGB which is probably not enough) and none of their builds have network adapters with Wi-Fi (My PC is too far away from the router to use Ethernet).
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Jun 8, 2022 23:03
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Butterfly Valley posted:It's possible you plugged it in upside down. The row with the 9th pin and the space where the 10th pin should be is useless so you don't want anything plugged in to that row. The front panel connectors are all presleeved together, so just unplug them all, rotate the cable 180 degrees and put it back into the same pins and try again. I have an nr200 and the front light only comes on when it's turned on, so from the behaviour in your case it sounds like something is hooked up wrong there. Yup, this did it -- it's now recognizably booting up, as in the light comes on when I press the button and fans start spinning. It is now officially more functional than my old computer.  Unfortunately there's still no output to a monitor, whether I plug the HDMI into the GPU or the motherboard. This is an annoying sticking point to be on because I kinda feel like it could be anything. What would be a good place to start on diagnosing this?
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Jun 9, 2022 00:08
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Does anyone have a recommendation for ECC LGA1700 boards? Now that the gaming PC is done I'm looking at TrueNAS or Windows Server, and PC Part Picker has no idea what the gently caress.
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Jun 9, 2022 00:15
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loquacius posted:Yup, this did it -- it's now recognizably booting up, as in the light comes on when I press the button and fans start spinning. It is now officially more functional than my old computer. reseat the GPU would be the first thing I would do, check connections, reseat the memory. do you have an iGPU on the chip for diagnosis?
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Jun 9, 2022 00:17
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Nope, did not anticipate this being an issue. I'll try those next, though.
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Jun 9, 2022 00:40
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no iGPU then the motherboard display ports won't do anything, so you can skip that step in future. it sounds like it's posting, probably so I'd be sure of my connections and that the GPU power is all squared away. can you see if the GPU fans spin?
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Jun 9, 2022 00:44
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Also just reset it and try again, and if you have a display port cable try that instead. Sometimes it takes a while to display anything, or it just won't start up properly first time or whatever.
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Jun 9, 2022 00:47
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Hahaha well good news and bad news The good news is that it's outputting to monitor now, the bad news is that Well, the GPU didn't line up perfectly with the spots on the case where you need to screw it in, so I've been having to, like, exert pressure on it to get it into a position where I can secure it to the case. If I don't do that, and just let it sit naturally, it apparently works. But now the only thing holding it in place is the PCI slot. I'm afraid to even stand the case upright like this. Jesus H Also the BIOS screen can recognize my SSD (that's good) but does not appear to consider it a valid thing to boot from (that's bad). Still have some tinkering to do on that score though
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Jun 9, 2022 00:49
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Like, this is what the part of it where I'd screw it in looks like. Notice where the screw holes are (read: not where they need to be)
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Jun 9, 2022 00:52
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the little screw at the back of the case? well, in the strictest sense that's more needed for moving the unit around, particularly if you need to ship it. I'd still recommend however.
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Jun 9, 2022 00:52
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That's not right. Make sure that the bottom part of the rear I/O on the gpu isn't catching on the case when you're trying to seat the card, I had that problem with mine. PCIe cards and cases are all made to one standard and the nr200 isn't a poo poo quality case, so those things should line up a lot better than they are. I'm worried that pressure you're exerting is because the bottom lip of the metal rear plate of the gpu is caught on the back empty slots of the case rather than sliding between the frame and motherboard. Butterfly Valley fucked around with this message at 00:59 on Jun 9, 2022 |
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Jun 9, 2022 00:54
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