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just got an email! 
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Jun 11, 2022 00:45
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Bucnasti posted:Don't ultrasonic cleaners heat up the cleaning fluid? A bit, but I keep an eye on the temperature of my ultrasonic cleaner when I run it (because I use meths in it to strip models and dont really want it getting too hot because fire bad) and it takes a good number of 6 minute cycles to warm it up to even anything approaching body temperature (and alcohol takes less energy to warm up than water does). Like more than half an hour of near continuous use. (I only bother getting the thing out its box once I have enough figures needing stripped to make it worth it) For a second I thought that it was more likely that there was an air bubble/void in the resin and the heat was expanding that rather than literally boiling uncured resin but on balance that doesnt seem likely either, I just dont think the ultrasonic is going to be heating up the interior enough to do anything dramatic unless you were leaving it on for a truly insane amount of time, and even then.... Purely guessing, but my money would be on the ultrasonic vibrations simply exacerbating existing fractures which were too small to see until the vibration widened them, opening up particularly on pieces that had a weak point (internal air bubble or similar. My back-up long shot guess would be something to do with the cavitation, maybe? Bubbles do form and burst in the liquid when using the ultrasonic cleaner, and I know that can be destructive on materials over long enough time, so maybe liquid flowing through micro cracks into an internal void, then bubbles forming and bursting and that pressure splitting the model? That sounds like it would almost make sense, but its pretty much just me opening my mouth and letting my belly rumble, I am more than prepared to be corrected.
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Jun 11, 2022 01:18
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Looking for a bit of advice, if folks would be so kind. I’m not used to working with plastic minis, so this is my first time cutting stuff off sprues, filing rough parts down, and taking off mound lines. After doing that and priming it, would that give me a pretty good idea of how well I prepped it (in terms of no lines, no rough areas areas), or would I need to paint it fully?
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Jun 11, 2022 02:30
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Seluin posted:Looking for a bit of advice, if folks would be so kind. Priming will be plenty fine to help spot areas you somehow missed.
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Jun 11, 2022 02:41
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Learned a lot from painting my first squad of CSMs, moving on to a squad of Warp Talons. Instead of batching like I did on the marines, I'm going to do them one at a time and give them a unique scheme unlike the CSMs that I got a little too same-y on. Far from done, but so far I'm digging leaving a grip of the panels black and incorporating some white (I see now why white is so annoying to work with). 
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Jun 11, 2022 02:46
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Priming will be plenty fine to help spot areas you somehow missed. If you do miss something, there's no time better than right then and there to fix it, even if you are painting the model. Don't leave mold lines or flash on a model when you see them (because you will never un-see them after that)
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Jun 11, 2022 03:16
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Thanks folks! Much appreciated! I’m paranoid about missing something, so I’m eager to practice 
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Jun 11, 2022 03:26
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Seluin posted:Thanks folks! Much appreciated! After you do a few models you will learn which areas *always* have mold lines, like nearly every gun in WH40k has a mold line right down the middle. Some of the models they engineer pretty well and the mold lines get hidden or obscured or even form an edge. Oddly specific tip in regards to a mold line: On the WWII German Armored Car "Puma" Sd.Kfz 234/2 there is a very visible mold line on the turret that is actually part of the model; the actual vehicle had a very visible mold line on the turret.
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Jun 11, 2022 03:44
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It also depends on the age of the sculpt too. Eldar Dire Avengers are from like 2006 and they have mould lines running down the middle of the helmet and right down the god drat face. Newer plastic sculpts tuck mould lines in less obvious spots and when they are obvious, like guns having one right down the middle, they're usually in such an open spot that you can wipe them out in one clean stroke of the back of a hobby knife. e: fiddled with my Chaos colour scheme a bit and made it a little warmer and I'm not sure if I like it more or not 
Eej fucked around with this message at 04:13 on Jun 11, 2022 |
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Jun 11, 2022 03:50
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Cat Face Joe posted:just got an email! Why is it always the American companies that make their emails/memos like some 8th grader selecting their first Theme/Style in MS Word, and making sure to change all the fonts and colors so everything is different an inconsistent or maybe that's expecting too much from a company that makes artist brushes, they're not artists, they're mechanics.
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Jun 11, 2022 04:38
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Eej posted:It also depends on the age of the sculpt too. Eldar Dire Avengers are from like 2006 and they have mould lines running down the middle of the helmet and right down the god drat face. Newer plastic sculpts tuck mould lines in less obvious spots and when they are obvious, like guns having one right down the middle, they're usually in such an open spot that you can wipe them out in one clean stroke of the back of a hobby knife. If you're taking votes, I like the one on the right (the warmer one). Both are sick though.
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Jun 11, 2022 04:43
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Why is it always the American companies that make their emails/memos like some 8th grader selecting their first Theme/Style in MS Word, and making sure to change all the fonts and colors so everything is different an inconsistent It reads like one of those "Graphic Design is my Passion" memes.
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Jun 11, 2022 05:24
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GreenBuckanneer posted:Why is it always the American companies that make their emails/memos like some 8th grader selecting their first Theme/Style in MS Word, and making sure to change all the fonts and colors so everything is different an inconsistent their website is unbelievably bad. like when I first saw it I thought it was fake bad.
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Jun 11, 2022 05:33
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SiKboy posted:A bit, but I keep an eye on the temperature of my ultrasonic cleaner when I run it (because I use meths in it to strip models and dont really want it getting too hot because fire bad) and it takes a good number of 6 minute cycles to warm it up to even anything approaching body temperature (and alcohol takes less energy to warm up than water does). Like more than half an hour of near continuous use. (I only bother getting the thing out its box once I have enough figures needing stripped to make it worth it) For a second I thought that it was more likely that there was an air bubble/void in the resin and the heat was expanding that rather than literally boiling uncured resin but on balance that doesnt seem likely either, I just dont think the ultrasonic is going to be heating up the interior enough to do anything dramatic unless you were leaving it on for a truly insane amount of time, and even then.... I can’t get pictures to upload for some reason but it’s less a stress fracture and more like something expanded hard inside and deformed the piece, the back side is bulging and the front is bulged and cracked open. I carved it out for filling and you can actually see a small void in the centre of it all. I’m guessing somehow something boiled to gas in there and blew it out.
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Jun 11, 2022 10:57
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Cat Face Joe posted:just got an email! If you unsubscribe and select "other" as your reason you can leave a little note about why you are done with them.
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Jun 11, 2022 13:11
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Mr Teatime posted:I can’t get pictures to upload for some reason but it’s less a stress fracture and more like something expanded hard inside and deformed the piece, the back side is bulging and the front is bulged and cracked open. I carved it out for filling and you can actually see a small void in the centre of it all. I’m guessing somehow something boiled to gas in there and blew it out. This sounds very similar to what happens when you fire ceramics and have a piece that is too thick; the moisture in the material can cause voids and bursting as described. Is the area the problem occuring in particularly thick?
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Jun 11, 2022 15:06
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IncredibleIgloo posted:This sounds very similar to what happens when you fire ceramics and have a piece that is too thick; the moisture in the material can cause voids and bursting as described. Is the area the problem occuring in particularly thick? Thick enough I guess, dreadnought drop pod door and the last time was a resin base. It’s just making me a touch wary about being lazy and using the ultrasonic for degreasing parts. I’ve done plenty in there before and while I can salvage the part this time I’m worried that I’ll get unlucky and wreck something expensive in the future. 🤔
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Jun 11, 2022 16:23
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Mr Teatime posted:Thick enough I guess, dreadnought drop pod door and the last time was a resin base. It’s just making me a touch wary about being lazy and using the ultrasonic for degreasing parts. I’ve done plenty in there before and while I can salvage the part this time I’m worried that I’ll get unlucky and wreck something expensive in the future. 🤔 Are you setting a temperature at all? I've not yet run into any issues - I've even cleaned parts that later I found have massive voids when I went to snip them off the gates, though I'm definitely a little paranoid now.
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Jun 11, 2022 16:27
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ijyt posted:Are you setting a temperature at all? I've not yet run into any issues - I've even cleaned parts that later I found have massive voids when I went to snip them off the gates, though I'm definitely a little paranoid now. I do, it never gets above 50C. It’s almost certainly due to cavitation within the part, cavitation causes the liquid to boil, rather than heat.
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Jun 11, 2022 17:45
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Regarding the citadel paints, beside the intended usage is there any specific difference between base and layer paints? Edit* Might as well add some more pictures of the warrior  
Laughing Zealot fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jun 11, 2022 |
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Jun 11, 2022 19:03
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Laughing Zealot posted:Regarding the citadel paints, beside the intended usage is there any specific difference between base and layer paints? Looks great! Anecdotally I can say GW’s own videos will often feature the painter basing a model with layer paint. The distinction for a newcomer to the hobby like me is that layer paints are usually more thin out of the paint pot. Does anyone have experience with highlighting models done with army painter speed paints? Should I use contrast for models I want done quickly, but would like to highlight later? My paint collection is almost entirely citadel if that helps. Bored Online fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Jun 11, 2022 |
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Jun 11, 2022 19:31
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I'm really feeling the need for a contrast color on the shoulder pads and such now. I really liked the red helmet for my unit leaders and termies and whatnot. For line guys would white work, like a reverse Heresy scheme? Orange? BLACK?!?   
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Jun 11, 2022 22:36
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Laughing Zealot posted:Regarding the citadel paints, beside the intended usage is there any specific difference between base and layer paints? The opacity of the base paints is usually a lot better. That being with the same consistency the base will cover fully in less coats. However that's not always the case and it's on a paint by paint basis which ones will cover well. Like mephiston red covers really well but zandri dust kinda sucks. But that's two examples from my experience.
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Jun 11, 2022 22:38
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Highlighting well is evading me right now, going to keep practicing it as I finish the rest of this squad. Also thinking about making a quick run over to the flgs to pick up some blood for the blood god and do some light splatter on the claws and lets go really sell warp talons as psycho butchers. Still have a long way to go but painting has gone from the thing I wanted to do least with the hobby to the part I'm enjoying the most  
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Jun 11, 2022 22:44
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I've got a grip of Eldar to paint, but I'm not really feeling any of the "official" schemes; anyone have anything weird and out there? Brighter or more bizarre the better.
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Jun 11, 2022 22:52
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Dr. Red Ranger posted:I'm really feeling the need for a contrast color on the shoulder pads and such now. I really liked the red helmet for my unit leaders and termies and whatnot. For line guys would white work, like a reverse Heresy scheme? Orange? BLACK?!? Dirty off white would work. Black is ok but it's surrounded by brass and dark green so it wouldn't be a good contrast (am I flaming the Salamanders' scheme? Maybe). You've highlighted your Chaos horns orange so I wouldn't recommend you do the shoulders orange, it'll be a bit too samey.
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Jun 11, 2022 23:04
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Bored Online posted:
Someone with more experience with them could probably tell you more, but I picked up a set a couple of weeks ago, and have used them on about 15-ish figures since then, so I have at least some experience. I did a couple with pretty much no highlights, then a bunch more with speedpaint and drybrushing, then a few with speedpaint followed by actual proper highlighting. To cut a long story short.... It was all fine, at least so far. I was wary because I'd heard they tend to reactivate when you paint over them unless sealed with a coat of varnish, but that wasnt my experience. Having said that, its a small sample size, and even my proper highlighting was mainly edge highlights and picking out details and not a more involved "going back in with the base colour over 80% of an area then further highlights on top of that". Also I tend to paint in the evenings, so with a lot of the figures I'd do the speedpaint one night then not come back to do the highlight for about 20 hours (or even a couple of days), so that could be a factor, I kind of wonder if some of the reactivation is due to people painting over speedpaints that are visibly and touch dry but actually not quite totally fixed yet, particularly youtubers who were on a schedule to get their speedpaint video filmed, edited and published while its still the trending topic in hobby circles. In any case, I figure if I find any of my paint reactivating down the road when I do more thorough highlights on something, I'll just stop and hit it with a quick coat of gloss varnish. Would be a bit annoying, but not the end of the world, and so far theres been no need. I like them fine, but I dont overall like them particularly more or less than I like contrast paints, some colours are a little better than their closest comparison contrast, some arent quite as good. I'd say dont worry about highlighting over them, but I'd also say if you already have say Skeleton Horde contrast you dont need to rush out and get Pallid Bone speedpaint.
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Jun 12, 2022 00:36
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My Spirit Otter posted:
How'd you paint the power swords? I really like that speckled, random highlighting that they have, versus the typical gradient you see when power swords. Also, what gold did you use for the Custodes armor? Maneck posted:They mucked with their formula during the pandemic. They denied having done so, even as twitter blew up with people showing before and after differences in behaviour. Then, the claimed they had fixed the problem which previously they denied existed. It's tough to know if there is still a problem with what they are currently churning out, or if people are still getting old bottles. They never did a recall. Uh oh.  I bought Badger Stylnylrez back in August 2020 when I purchased my airbrush (it was a three-pack of black, white, and grey). Granted I haven't done any airbrushing since 2020 or so, but I wonder if those bottles are ones with the bad formula.What other airbrush primer should I check out instead?
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Jun 12, 2022 03:28
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Max Wilco posted:What other airbrush primer should I check out instead? I pretty much just use Vallejo Surface Primer - It comes in the 17 mL dropper bottles, but also 60 mL and 200 mL bottles.
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Jun 12, 2022 03:37
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Cthulu Carl posted:I pretty much just use Vallejo Surface Primer - It comes in the 17 mL dropper bottles, but also 60 mL and 200 mL bottles. I thought Vallejo Primer had a bunch of issues with adhesion. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Jun 12, 2022 |
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Jun 12, 2022 03:57
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Max Wilco posted:How'd you paint the power swords? I really like that speckled, random highlighting that they have, versus the typical gradient you see when power swords. i did a base of mcragge blue or whatever, with army painter crystal blue randomly dry brushed on followed by gw baharroth blue also randomly dry brushed on. and i used auric armour gold for their armour with a reikland fleshshade wash.
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Jun 12, 2022 03:59
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Max Wilco posted:I thought Vallejo Primer had a bunch of issues with adhesion. I haven't had any problems with it. on plastic, metal, cast resin, or printed resin, and I've used several different bottles of different colors, too. 
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Jun 12, 2022 04:39
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Jack B Nimble posted:I had no idea this was a thing and I'm very interested. It is a thing and its pretty cool. Every month you'll get a box with four issues in it. That'll work out to several pages of fluff, assembly and painting guides, tools like brushers and nippers, a new rule or two, and example of play, terrain mats, and of course the models. At about five months in you'll have a couple of Kill Team2021 forces. You'll always have 40K-ish playable forces, even if you're just bashing two character models together. I need to catch up on my assembly, Necrons are starting to accumulate... Oh ! One minor issue. Your Space Marines will be officially Ultramarines, and that's what the paints you get are for, but you don't have to shave symbols off of them to go with another legion.
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Jun 12, 2022 11:17
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Max Wilco posted:I thought Vallejo Primer had a bunch of issues with adhesion. Never had an issue, it is used by pretty much every person I know. Straight in the brush sprays perfect. Vallejo has an excellent reputation (as far as I know). I tried Molotow black just now, it is good (pricey though), it is almost double Vallejo airbrush primer cost. Probably because it is a street art paint. Hoboskins fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Jun 12, 2022 |
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Jun 12, 2022 12:24
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Done some more painting. Thorns of the Briar Queen for Warhammer Underworlds. Really went back and forth on how much should be corporeal (eg actually painted properly) and how much should be ectoplasm (eg painted with thinned plasmatic bolt speedpaint and some off-white highlights), then went ham with the weathering on the weapons and chains because I could.  And some Malifaux. A 1e metal Nicodem (Alt Sculpt). I have the plastic 2E somewhere, this was part of a mixed lot, and I thought I'd paint him quick and chuck him back on ebay to clear some space but... Now he's done i kind of think it has a bit more character than the 2e sculpt, or possibly I'm just a bit better at painting than I was 3 years ago.  A trio of Samurai, I have no idea what they were doing with the scale of the kneeling one tbh.  And a trio of Ten Thunders Brothers. Almost entirely speedpaints. Faffing around with various texture paints on the base to see if I could get "in the desert on the edge of a dried up lake bed" which I think I managed. 
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Jun 12, 2022 18:02
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My only experience with Vallejo spray is the leadbelcher metallic equivalent (gunmetal), and I was initially very pleased with how well the coat went on and looked. When I went to actually paint it though, I had adherence problems. Even a well coating paint like abaddon black would get that splotchy “too thinned down” effect, and I would basically have to wash it first to get enough paint on to be able to follow up with proper coats. This was me painting my first vehicle (an impulsor), and never having used Vallejo products before so take it as you will.
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Jun 12, 2022 18:20
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Bored Online posted:My only experience with Vallejo spray is the leadbelcher metallic equivalent (gunmetal), and I was initially very pleased with how well the coat went on and looked. When I went to actually paint it though, I had adherence problems. Even a well coating paint like abaddon black would get that splotchy “too thinned down” effect, and I would basically have to wash it first to get enough paint on to be able to follow up with proper coats. This was me painting my first vehicle (an impulsor), and never having used Vallejo products before so take it as you will. FWIW the actual Leadbelcher spray has the same problem, I think it’s just inherent to metallic rattlecan sprays.
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Jun 12, 2022 18:37
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:FWIW the actual Leadbelcher spray has the same problem, I think it’s just inherent to metallic rattlecan sprays. That’s good to know. My next “vehicle” project is a dreadnaught. Do people recommend I try a metallic again or do it with grey / black and base on the metallics?
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Jun 12, 2022 18:40
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So as someone who doesn't yet have an airbrush but was looking to pick one up soon, what's a non-badger recommendation for a starter brush? Something Iwata? Going to mostly start with basecoating and main colors, I expect I'll probably need a different brush if I ever graduate to doing fine detail with it.
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Jun 12, 2022 18:45
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| # ? May 27, 2024 08:58 |
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Bored Online posted:That’s good to know. My next “vehicle” project is a dreadnaught. Do people recommend I try a metallic again or do it with grey / black and base on the metallics? black base then just paint on the metallics with Vallejo Metal Color
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Jun 12, 2022 18:45
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