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Nah, probably 2001-2005-ish
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Jun 10, 2022 03:34
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Picked up the wheels w/ new tires. Mounted up the front after spending a couple hours detailing the wheel, rotor, and lower forks. As always they were nasty. Calipers need one more pass but looking pretty tidy otherwise! The rear will go on this weekend assuming the exhaust gasket shows up tomorrow so I can put all that together first. Then I can test ride and figure out what else needs attention. 
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Jun 10, 2022 04:21
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Found the oil leak from my newly purchased 650 v star. Apparently the neutral switch likes to crack and drip from there. I'm also on the hunt for new tires, which is bumming me out because the tread on these is virtually brand new. Unfortunately this bike sat for a long time, and I'm fairly certain they're flat spotted. I get a consistent vibration at speed. Oh, and they're manufactured 2014 and 2013 respectively. Time to replace
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Jun 10, 2022 12:35
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:I'm gonna buy a Goldwing 1800 and then sell my 1200 Excellent. I've been side eyeing 1500's for an upgrade myself.
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Jun 10, 2022 15:50
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UCS Hellmaker posted:not gonna lie, everyone says the DCT is amazing eh, it's alright
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Jun 10, 2022 18:59
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The exhaust gasket came in and I promptly destroyed it trying to get everything installed and aligned, there's no room to get the Y pipe in at a straight enough angle to not jam it up. I hate these stupid malleable graphite gaskets. I feel like you get one shot with them. Went to plan B, got some exhaust repair wrap and made a gasket out of several wraps of that and topped it off with copper permatex for good measure. No leaks, good enough. Took a while to line up the cans and get those mounted up. Then put the shock back in and the rear wheel on, chain tension set and wheel aligned. Took it for a 45 minute shakedown ride. No issues really, runs fine, still sounds half decent when you open it up even with the stock exhaust. Valves are a little tappy but I understand that's normal on these especially at 40k miles. Suspension is s h o t though. I rode without earplugs so I could hear the bike and the shock clunks over bumps (and easily bottoms out when I sit on it) and the forks are kind of noisy too. Forks will be easy enough to rebuild but shocks are hard to come by unless you want to pay $1k for an Ohlins which I'm not into on what is supposed to be a beater bike. Will need to keep an eye on eBay. But overall not bad. Will get a longer ride in now that I'm fairly confident nothing I did will kill me or leave me stranded. The Angel GTs seem solid but I wasn't exactly dragging knee or anything yet. Needs another wash just from me doing so much work on it but the worst of it is properly degreased now so it'll be easy enough to clean up. Oh and all the oil stayed in the crankcase which is always nice. 
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Jun 10, 2022 23:44
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Pics forthcoming because it’s dark out but, my carbs are so clean! They’re SO clean! And I only broke an idle adjuster getting them apart.
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Jun 11, 2022 03:43
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Work on my FZR600 continues. Got a new brake line, and cleaned out the rear brake cylinders again. Used a nylon wire brush on the dremel this time. Without the seals in, the pistons now move smoothly enough to drop in place by gravity - after messing around for a minute to get them aligned perfectly straight above the bore. Now putting the seals in place and reassembling the whole thing. I also bought a master cylinder rebuild kit just in case because they're cheap. Will see if any crud comes out of the MC fluid port before attaching the new brake line. E: always wear safety glasses when doing anything that involves fluids, pressures and pistons/cylinders. I was pushing the cylinder in, now with the seals in place. There was some brake fluid in there to lubricate the whole thing. And right at the last moment i thought 'Well... That could shoot out of the little port' so i put on my safety glasses. And indeed, some fluid/air/droplets shot out of there and over my trousers and shirt. It didn't get onto my safety glasses, it wouldn't have gotten into my eyes... This time. In a parallel universe, another LimaBiker is doing the same job with the assembly angled just a bit differently, and there it did happen to get into his eyes. Same goes when you flush out stuff with brake cleaner. That stuff HURTS like a motherfucker. E2: continuing the saga of the almost scrapped FZR in a separate thread. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 13:25 on Jun 11, 2022 |
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Jun 11, 2022 10:51
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   Can’t wait to put ‘em moths bike and see where I hosed up.
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Jun 11, 2022 23:15
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Lube all of the little linkages!!!! God I hope you read this in time. I can't abide squeaky carb linkages, and don't think being halfway around the world will protect you - I'll know.
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Jun 11, 2022 23:27
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So like, spit on it first? …WD40?
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Jun 12, 2022 00:39
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Chain wax or moly lube or white lith or something. Wd40 is only temporary lube.
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Jun 12, 2022 00:43
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A new oil leak! Yay! At least it's a minor one. Looks like oil is pushing through the crank sensor itself, its not wet where the cover seals or the grommet for the sensor, but coming up through the wire underneath the sheathing. It's pushing enough out that it trickled down between the two covers and was starting to form a droplet on the bottom. This wasn't here before so I think it only happens at high revs which I definitely hit a few times during my test ride yesterday. Don't really see how this would be repairable so I'll just order a new sensor, it's $40. Was a tricky one to track down, it rests against the clutch cable bracket and just wicked from there down the cases so I had to clean it all up to see this is where it's coming from.  Here's what it looked like before cleaning, pretty well saturated between the cases. 
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Jun 12, 2022 21:31
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Check to make sure the oil level isn't overfilled (check with the bike upright) and the crank case breather is unobstructed. There shouldn't really be any pressure in that area to drive the oil out that way.
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Jun 12, 2022 21:43
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Oil level is good, but I did also find it weird there's be enough pressure to push oil through the sensor. Will check the breather, thanks.
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Jun 12, 2022 21:46
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I dismanteled the carb for my tenere this weekend to look for reasons for my above 4000rpm stuttering and check the floats as it also liked to piss fuel out the over flow at times. It looked fine inside, no real crud, all small holes in the nozzles looked open, the jets where stock sizes. no crud in the filter by the float valve. The diagraphs was whole. From the state of it I think some PO has been in it recently. very little crud, but tool marks on some screws.  There was some play in the float valve, ie from side to side on the plunger, not sure how much there should be there usually, but I ordered a seat + float valve kit. I also ordered new rubber intake boots as I saw the vulk tape temp reinforcement solution I had used was not happy with the heat from the engine. No signs of leakage there. Idle mixture screw was at 1 3/4 turns, which from I can find is stock. Now that I've actually verified where it is I'll see if I can fasion up a short/bendy enough tool to reach the screw while the carb or the electric start is on mounted on the bike, yay for added extras reducing work room.
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Jun 13, 2022 12:32
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It might be some microscopic thing. Every time I've taken apart my carbs to clean out obvious blockages, I never found anything visible. And yet, after poking all of the holes as one should, they always ran better when put back together.
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Jun 13, 2022 13:41
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Supradog posted:I dismanteled the carb for my tenere this weekend to look for reasons for my above 4000rpm stuttering and check the floats as it also liked to piss fuel out the over flow at times. Check that float height, I used to assume nobody would mess with float height. I was wrong.
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Jun 13, 2022 14:04
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Gorson posted:Check that float height, I used to assume nobody would mess with float height. I was wrong. Check to see if the float needle is in right side up. I used to assume nobody would put a float needle in upside down.
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Jun 13, 2022 16:03
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More images.     
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Jun 13, 2022 17:19
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Supradog posted:More images. Is this the needle valve seat? I guess I've never tried to remove one of the pressed in ones. Everything looks ok, but an overflow has got to be float out of adjustment/needle valve is worn or not seating/needle seat is dirty or needs replacing.
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Jun 14, 2022 01:09
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yeah. sadly I didnt film it when I dismantled it and the carb is at my brothers place atm so I can't verify it, but the float did not behave as I see in misc youtube videos about adjusting float height, either the float/needle valve was not set to get under tension/hooked on the float properly to and close, or it leaks through the valve because of the play I saw in it. It's my first time actually dismantling a carb. I followed a nice step by step picture guide made from a tenere entusiast forum regarding dismantling, but I dont have the experience to see real silly PO mistakes in it.
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Jun 14, 2022 07:45
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That is a totally conventional float valve design. You set float height by bending the little tang that pushes on the plunger. The valve has a spring loaded buffer on the end, you need to set the float level with that buffer touching the tang but not compressed. Good way of doing this is to tilt the carb just enough so the float closes, but not fully upside down, so the float's weight itself won't compress three buffer. There is no meaningful mechanical wear on the float valve, if it's the correct one and the tip is intact, it will work.
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Jun 14, 2022 07:54
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Slavvy posted:There is no meaningful mechanical wear on the float valve, if it's the correct one and the tip is intact, it will work. Yep look really closely at the rubber tip of the float needle, if you see a "shelf" on it where the rubber tip sits in the seat, it might be time to replace it. Also there's a little plunger on top of the float needle (where the tang on the float contacts the needle), it should plunge up and down, they jam up easily with dirty fuel. Also I see a 155 main jet in there, I don't think that's stock. Check the pilot jet size too. People change jets out with the logic of "bigger better". e: parts diagram for the XT600 shows a #110 main jet in the "slave" carb (probably not the correct term for one of these dual carb setups but whatever) and main jet options of #120, #130, #140 in the "main" carb: https://www.bike-parts-yam.com/yamaha-motorcycle/600-MOTO/1990/XT/XT600/CARBURETOR/57_5656-5656/B8/0/10705 Gorson fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jun 14, 2022 |
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Jun 14, 2022 14:03
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its a xt600z 1988. 155 is stock on it from what I can find. and yeah 2 turns out on the pilot screw was stock, I misremembered. Xt600EA from 1990 says 130  Slavvy posted:That is a totally conventional float valve design. You set float height by bending the little tang that pushes on the plunger. The valve has a spring loaded buffer on the end, you need to set the float level with that buffer touching the tang but not compressed. Good way of doing this is to tilt the carb just enough so the float closes, but not fully upside down, so the float's weight itself won't compress three buffer. Blind leading the blind. I think at least the dismantle process described there was ok. Nothing broke as far as I'm aware and it seemed logical.. https://www.motorang.com/motorrad/XT600Z_Carb_tutorial_English.pdf Supradog fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Jun 14, 2022 |
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Jun 14, 2022 15:25
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Noticed when I went for my first ride the turn signal was quite gummy feeling and barely returned to center. Popped it open, disassembled everything and cleaned out the super old grease, squirted fresh stuff in there, a million times better now.
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Jun 14, 2022 22:55
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Supradog posted:its a xt600z 1988. Oh we didn't get that one here, sadly. We also didn't get the TDR250 which gently caress:  gently caress
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Jun 14, 2022 23:00
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Gorson posted:Oh we didn't get that one here, sadly. We also didn't get the TDR250 which Fuuuuck
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Jun 14, 2022 23:06
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opengl128 posted:Noticed when I went for my first ride the turn signal was quite gummy feeling and barely returned to center. Popped it open, disassembled everything and cleaned out the super old grease, squirted fresh stuff in there, a million times better now. I have got to get to this on my bike. I keep forgetting my switchgear is all sticky as gently caress until I'm riding.
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Jun 14, 2022 23:37
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 I did this, again. So sick of it. Tfw you live close to good trails and good dunes. I got an ok changing stand, but I'm very clumsy and probably dumb about it as I stand a very good chance to wreck a tube 50% of the time putting on a tire. I've got a very local shop now that does these for only $25/each but I really just need to cough up the money for an extra set of rims for these three bikes. The old KTM runs an 18" currently but I've seen quite a few 19" for sale. So these... Go faster? Gear down a little?
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Jun 16, 2022 03:59
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19" is what's run on motocross bikes and flat trackers. It's not as ideal as an 18" for woods riding and lower speed obstacle/technical riding. If it's a really cheap 19" it may be worth it to use that as the paddle tire and use the 18" for woods riding.
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Jun 16, 2022 05:25
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TotalLossBrain posted:
Do you put a little air in the tube when you put it on? I find that helps keep it away from pinching spots. Also helps to lube it up well with the nomar paste.
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Jun 16, 2022 14:54
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I did the steering head bearings on my nx250 as turning was not smooth anymore, there was a noticable "dent" with the handlebars straight. Something to fix while waiting on parts for the carb parts + intake boots for my tenere. floating magic '  Old ones was ball bearings. yup. kinda not smooth. and you see how small the contact point is.   New ones are needle rollers. Getting the old ones out was a pain, but mostly because my punches was too short, had to sacrifice a bigger screwdriver as a punch, but not having metal to metal is kinda inefficient. I'll buy some longer punches for special occasions.
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Jun 16, 2022 21:40
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Did front and rear braided brake lines on the 919, it still had the original 15yr old rubber lines and was due for new fluid anyway. I continue to love speed bleeders and will continue to put them on every vehicle I own. They make flushing brake fluid completely brainless.
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Jun 17, 2022 15:51
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On the topic of floats and overflowing fuel, I re-built and re-jetted my CR125 for ice riding this past winter and couldn’t figure out why it kept gushing fuel the second I turned on the fuel, turned out the new OEM float valve must have had an ever so slight defect because it kept binding in the passage, so I chucked the old valve back in and it was fine (until the head gasket went and took the top end with it lol) Also back to the Sporty tracker project, whoever created pinch style hose clamps is a loving psychopath and I want to put extremely tight pinch clamps on all of their fingers and toes. Same for whoever approved putting them on almost every hose on Sportsters. 
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Jun 18, 2022 05:39
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Much lower stakes because it's just aesthetics, but I am having the worst time figuring out if some of the Memphis Shades fairings (specifically looking at the Road Warrior) would fit my 2017 Roadster. Yeah, their site doesn't list it as fitting, but I think it's the same front end as the forty-eight from the same year, which does fit. I like the little café deflector I have less and less (especially since they were not great painters), but I'm willing to strip it and repaint it if I can't find something just a touch beefier. The current setup (minus the new seat I put on a couple weeks ago - and the cruiser tires I put on it that make it ride way the gently caress better).  I guess it's all about how far apart the forks are, but I'm hitting the wall trying to work out how far they are apart in relation to the forty-eight. Obviously I can go measure my own, but outside of finding a forty-eight, I'm not sure. edit: I already see I'm wrong about them having the same front end. But I know Harley reuses parts everywhere, so I guess the hunt is till on. Geekboy fucked around with this message at 08:59 on Jun 18, 2022 |
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Jun 18, 2022 08:57
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After some family obligations and general slacktivity for the better part of a week, I turned my attention back to my carbs, and this:Slavvy posted:That's not too bad at all you'll be out in a year, two years tops honestly might be the nicest thing he could’ve said to me at this point. They are leaking SO BAD. They look pretty well in sync at least, and if I ever get them functional I found someone with a loaner sync tool. It’s already dark out though, ought to kickstarter a garage or something because I was feeling it. Starting at like 6pm.
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Jun 19, 2022 02:48
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Aaand there was no change what so ever after rebuilding the carb and new carb boots. still uneven rpm at steady throttle input above 4k rpm on my 88 tenere. No issues at all below 4k rpm. Overflow/float looks good at least. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzwHR856xMU Jets are stock for that year model. primary Jet is 155, secondary is 125. Compression is good. Air filter looks good. Exhaust is not stock as that one was rusted away ages ago, and there was a PO special on it. The PO special was pretty restrictive.  This was the oem exhaust.  I replaced that with an Arrow paris dakar replica.  I assume I then need to rejet? Supradog fucked around with this message at 23:30 on Jun 22, 2022 |
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Jun 22, 2022 21:16
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What is your needle setting? You need to ignore rpm and focus on throttle position instead.
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Jun 22, 2022 21:58
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Baaah, I didn't change it but I also took no pictures or noted down the position. Oh well, something to do this weekend. I'll get good training removing the carb at least.. I'll do test vs throttle input first. Supradog fucked around with this message at 23:29 on Jun 22, 2022 |
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Jun 22, 2022 23:20
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