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Sweeper
Nov 29, 2007
The Joe Buck of Posting
Dinosaur Gum

StarkingBarfish posted:

Nearly free of delicious lead:



My collapsed sewer line was an interesting one. It runs right along the property boundary and they didn't want to excavate the pipe since it'd undermine the neighbours' concrete path. Instead they inflated a fiberglass sleeve into it, which was kinda cool to watch:

https://i.imgur.com/BvfPFId.mp4

Pretty sure we have a clay pipe as our sewer main right now and I've wondered about these. According to a release they are illegal in NYC (code specifies the materials, these sleeves aren't listed) which is a shame because getting ours replaced involves digging up the sidewalk and street, which is obviously a huge hassle. I look these up every time I fret over our sewer main and am disappointed they can't (shouldn't I guess..) be installed here...

If you are in NYC look into getting the sewer/water main insurance the city funds (https://www1.nyc.gov/site/dep/pay-my-bills/service-line-protection-program.page), one repair would pay for your life's premium

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StarkingBarfish
Jun 25, 2006

Novus Ordo Seclorum
That's brutal. I was also wondering if it's up to code and more importantly up to a lifetime of pooping... Turns out its listed as OK where I am and comes with a 50y guarantee. Its definitely stronger than the clay it replaced and that has been under there for a century now.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Sweeper posted:

Pretty sure we have a clay pipe as our sewer main right now and I've wondered about these. According to a release they are illegal in NYC (code specifies the materials, these sleeves aren't listed) which is a shame because getting ours replaced involves digging up the sidewalk and street, which is obviously a huge hassle. I look these up every time I fret over our sewer main and am disappointed they can't (shouldn't I guess..) be installed here...

If you are in NYC look into getting the sewer/water main insurance the city funds (https://www1.nyc.gov/site/dep/pay-my-bills/service-line-protection-program.page), one repair would pay for your life's premium

Thanks for reminding me to do this.

My plumber told me that at current prices it’s more like $50k if the sewer line fails.

Angry Pie
Feb 4, 2007
Do you want a piece of me?!
I have a smoke alarm question:

I recently discovered that if the smoke alarm on the other side of my duplex goes off, I can't hear it on my side. Is there a way to connect or network the two alarms together so that the next time my 76 year old mother sets a fire in her toaster oven I know about it right away? I'm sure there's products available for this but I don't know where to start.

Lawnie
Sep 6, 2006

That is my helmet
Give it back
you are a lion
It doesn't even fit
Grimey Drawer

Tremors posted:

State Farm has told me to pound sand and expects me to live with this as is until next Monday when an adjuster will schedule an appointment to come look.

Just wait until you need them to cut you a check

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Angry Pie posted:

I have a smoke alarm question:

I recently discovered that if the smoke alarm on the other side of my duplex goes off, I can't hear it on my side. Is there a way to connect or network the two alarms together so that the next time my 76 year old mother sets a fire in her toaster oven I know about it right away? I'm sure there's products available for this but I don't know where to start.

This feature is called interconnect and is frequently accommodated via an extra red wire when the home is built. If your home does not currently do this and you don't want to pay to add it, there is a feature called 'wireless interconnect' on some alarms. A very pricey but popular example of this is on Nest Protect.

If the home is newer, code probably required an interconnect wire. Apparently this is not true! But it is probably standard with anything but the scummiest builders. And I have no idea why it is not code.

Inner Light fucked around with this message at 00:29 on Jun 16, 2022

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Angry Pie posted:

I have a smoke alarm question:

I recently discovered that if the smoke alarm on the other side of my duplex goes off, I can't hear it on my side. Is there a way to connect or network the two alarms together so that the next time my 76 year old mother sets a fire in her toaster oven I know about it right away? I'm sure there's products available for this but I don't know where to start.

They’re pricy, but my nest protects are excellent. If one goes off they all go off (and they speak and say where the smoke is detected).

You also get a phone notification. There’s no subscription required for any of this.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Kidde makes a unit that doesn't rely on WiFi or IoT stuff to wirelessly interconnect the units

https://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/products/fire-safety/smoke-alarms/rf-sm-dc/


Last I looked into them, you couldn't get one in dual technology smoke detectors, though.

Vinny the Shark
Oct 11, 2005
My water heater is nearing the end of its' lifespan and I need to replace it soon. How much would I expect to pay to remove my current one and have a new one installed? I'm looking for a ballpark figure and hopefully it would be under $3k, but you never know with inflation and a worldwide shortage of building materials. I live in a condo and my water heater is in my basement. I don't need to replace it urgently- sometime by the end of this summer.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I paid about 3k for a new power vent water heater to be installed. This is in a medium cost of living city in the northeast

Alarbus
Mar 31, 2010
I mean, if you can schedule it via big box store, you can probably get under $3k, maybe close ish to $2k. If yours goes unexpectedly on Friday afternoon and you want it replaced that day, it runs closer a bit under $4k. Ask how I know. :(

Sundae
Dec 1, 2005

tater_salad posted:

I paid about 3k for a new power vent water heater to be installed. This is in a medium cost of living city in the northeast

That sounds about right. Power-vent heater + permit + haul-away on mine was $2800 in the bay area.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Well, the day finally came to lay sod. I was waiting for a good weather window in Seattle but we've had a record wet last month and a half.

Got delivered this morning at 745. I had to touch up a few more spots with the rake before laying it. Thankfully my yard isn't big, my sod order was only 1k sq ft or two pallets. I ended up with 12 leftover rolls.



I was fine doing it myself but I was prepared for it taking a really long time. I took the day off work and my wife was able to wheelbarrow for a bit. My buddy stopped by for an hour and hauled some more.

Side yard


Front yard


Side yard complete



Front yard complete


I thought for sure my back and knees would be wrecked but it was mostly my hands and forearms. I watched a lot of tutorials on laying sod and they all stressed making a good marriage of the edges. This is what killed my hands.

No way I'm ever doing this again. I wanted to have the sod company install it for $1/SQ ft but they were booked 3 months out and I was nervous about hiring some rando and doing a poo poo job.

Anyway. It's done. I'm beat. Wish I had taken off the rest of the week.

Pilfered Pallbearers
Aug 2, 2007

Verman posted:

Well, the day finally came to lay sod. I was waiting for a good weather window in Seattle but we've had a record wet last month and a half.

Got delivered this morning at 745. I had to touch up a few more spots with the rake before laying it. Thankfully my yard isn't big, my sod order was only 1k sq ft or two pallets. I ended up with 12 leftover rolls.



I was fine doing it myself but I was prepared for it taking a really long time. I took the day off work and my wife was able to wheelbarrow for a bit. My buddy stopped by for an hour and hauled some more.

Side yard


Front yard


Side yard complete



Front yard complete


I thought for sure my back and knees would be wrecked but it was mostly my hands and forearms. I watched a lot of tutorials on laying sod and they all stressed making a good marriage of the edges. This is what killed my hands.

No way I'm ever doing this again. I wanted to have the sod company install it for $1/SQ ft but they were booked 3 months out and I was nervous about hiring some rando and doing a poo poo job.

Anyway. It's done. I'm beat. Wish I had taken off the rest of the week.

House Ownership: Wish I had taken off the rest of the week

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


I'm off next week to do house poo poo

Sarern
Nov 4, 2008

:toot:
Won't you take me to
Bomertown?
Won't you take me to
BONERTOWN?

:toot:

Vinny the Shark posted:

My water heater is nearing the end of its' lifespan and I need to replace it soon. How much would I expect to pay to remove my current one and have a new one installed? I'm looking for a ballpark figure and hopefully it would be under $3k, but you never know with inflation and a worldwide shortage of building materials. I live in a condo and my water heater is in my basement. I don't need to replace it urgently- sometime by the end of this summer.

I paid $1400 in the Pacific Northwest for that a few weeks ago, but looking at other posts, it seems like using the same contractor for almost everything that breaks has led to them giving me a discount.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

So we're due to get the good internet in these parts, but my understanding is that the fiber terminus internet dohickey will basically be slapped in place wherever ingress to the house is for the current internet. This appears to be approxmitly where my dishwasher is based on my extremely good and professional poking around based investigation methods. Presuming they just drill through the exterior wall a bit higher, that leaves me with an ONT terminal on the rear end end of the house from where my existing modem and router affairs exist.

So, how screwed am I in terms of getting the ONT over to where my current stuff is in the center of the house (pad, no crawl space)? I'm assuming that would at minimum require some dude/gal with one of those flexible drill deals just making all kinds of fun holes my drywall in regular intervals. Would it be saner to run Cat5e/6 over to where we want it vs trying to do so with fiber? Should I just give up?

extravadanza
Oct 19, 2007
You should probably be able to run any data cables just right behind any baseboards you have. Pick an entrance into your home for the fiber internet near a uninterrupted wall that runs to where you want it to go if you have something like that available, maybe?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Angry Pie posted:

I have a smoke alarm question:

I recently discovered that if the smoke alarm on the other side of my duplex goes off, I can't hear it on my side. Is there a way to connect or network the two alarms together so that the next time my 76 year old mother sets a fire in her toaster oven I know about it right away? I'm sure there's products available for this but I don't know where to start.

The other side of your duplex is a separate residence with a minimum 2 hour fire wall between it and your unit. You should not be solving this by interconnecting smokes between two residences or anything like that.

I'm not going to get into if this is such a consistent issue they shouldn't be cooking other than to say that much. But if that doesn't land try putting a nest or other IoT garbage smoke in the kitchen as an additional detection device that will alert your phone when it goes off.

Guy Axlerod
Dec 29, 2008
Maybe you should get a professionally monitored alarm system for both sides of the duplex, and you and your mother can be mutual contacts for the other. That can lead to a "I've fallen and can't get up" alarm for mom.

Warbird
May 23, 2012

America's Favorite Dumbass

extravadanza posted:

You should probably be able to run any data cables just right behind any baseboards you have. Pick an entrance into your home for the fiber internet near a uninterrupted wall that runs to where you want it to go if you have something like that available, maybe?

Baseboards are a super good idea, thanks! I’m kind of mad I didn’t consider it when tucking flat Cat5e between the baseboards and carpet when running cables upstairs. I’ll probably have to run things across the top of our cabinets and down behind the fridge, but that should be a workable solution for the last little bit.

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!

Motronic posted:

Document everything, but there's little left to save. It's not like tarping the roof is going to protect it from becoming the obvious tear down it already is.

Managed to raise enough hell and had an adjuster and contractor out this afternoon. They're scheduling a crane (hopefully for early next week) so the garage can be removed as it's chopped into pieces. Feeling relieved that something is happening.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Tremors posted:

Managed to raise enough hell and had an adjuster and contractor out this afternoon. They're scheduling a crane (hopefully for early next week) so the garage can be removed as it's chopped into pieces. Feeling relieved that something is happening.

Nice. I'm glad it's moving along for you. Even if it's not "technically" necessary you should expect some manner of reasonably prompt service to remediate this.....it's kinda what you're paying your insurance premiums for.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Motronic posted:

Nice. I'm glad it's moving along for you. Even if it's not "technically" necessary you should expect some manner of reasonably prompt service to remediate this.....it's kinda what you're paying your insurance premiums for.

This. My name is associated with my profession, and I’d rather it not be shouted profanely around a bar (or courtroom).

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Just read a nice story about how a lot of homeowners who got hit by a sudden 1030pm tornado in the western Chicago suburbs a year ago are still having to fight tooth and nail with their insurance companies to get things covered. Over 50% of those with problems are with State farm

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Pressure washing decks…if I get this pressure washed, do I need to immediately stain it or paint it afterwards? I just moved in and no idea when it was done last.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

nwin posted:

Pressure washing decks…if I get this pressure washed, do I need to immediately stain it or paint it afterwards? I just moved in and no idea when it was done last.



I did deck finishing and refinishing for a moment. We always sprayed it down with soap and bleach, pressure washed it, and let it dry out for a few days before staining it.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Rigging a tube from the dehumidifier to outside for drainage.

My basement doesn’t have a drain and I’m tired of emptying the dehumidifier twice a day.

I think motronic recommended drilling a hole in my basement toward a downward sloping area and running the tube through that.

Here’s my basement setup. Would it be possible to just drill the hole next to the windows and run the tube into the basins outside? I don’t have a sump pump. Alternatively, is there something out there I could buy which would just be a spacer in the window for me to run the tubing through so I don’t have to drill a hole?

Lastly-I have barn doors/hatch opening to enter the basement as well as a stairwell in the house. I can see light when I look through the hatch opening. Is it worth getting that sealed up?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Your dehumidifier looks nearly identical to the one on my boat. There should be a hose connector on the back. Go buy the world's cheapest garden hose and attach it to the back and run it through the crack in your barn doors, just make sure it doesn't pinch it all the way shut. Go buy some door threshold seal, if you want to drop the humidity in the air you're going to want the basement to be air tight as possible. Amazon has a bunch of options for under $30

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

nwin posted:

Rigging a tube from the dehumidifier to outside for drainage.

My basement doesn’t have a drain and I’m tired of emptying the dehumidifier twice a day.

I think motronic recommended drilling a hole in my basement toward a downward sloping area and running the tube through that.

Draining to daylight is always the recommendation when possible, but it doesn't look possible or practical in your case.

nwin posted:

Here’s my basement setup. Would it be possible to just drill the hole next to the windows and run the tube into the basins outside? I don’t have a sump pump. Alternatively, is there something out there I could buy which would just be a spacer in the window for me to run the tubing through so I don’t have to drill a hole?

You're going to want to drill a hole or find some other meaningful and permanent way to do this. PVC through the foundation would be pretty standard.

Does the dehumidifier have a pump? If not you're going to need to get a condensate pump as well.

nwin posted:

Lastly-I have barn doors/hatch opening to enter the basement as well as a stairwell in the house. I can see light when I look through the hatch opening. Is it worth getting that sealed up?

I think you're talking about bilco doors. If they are in good shape and installed properly it shouldn't be hard to seal them. If you don't have another door between them and your basement yes, you're going to want to do this before winter.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Hadlock posted:

Your dehumidifier looks nearly identical to the one on my boat. There should be a hose connector on the back. Go buy the world's cheapest garden hose and attach it to the back and run it through the crack in your barn doors, just make sure it doesn't pinch it all the way shut. Go buy some door threshold seal, if you want to drop the humidity in the air you're going to want the basement to be air tight as possible. Amazon has a bunch of options for under $30

So the white humidifier doesn’t have a pump. The grey one does. The barn doors are up 6 feet of stairs so the garden hose wouldn’t work since it’d have to travel up, hence buying the pump.

I can buy some door threshold seal for the doors and try to run the pump hose (1/4”) through that though.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Motronic posted:

Draining to daylight is always the recommendation when possible, but it doesn't look possible or practical in your case.

You're going to want to drill a hole or find some other meaningful and permanent way to do this. PVC through the foundation would be pretty standard.

Does the dehumidifier have a pump? If not you're going to need to get a condensate pump as well.

I think you're talking about bilco doors. If they are in good shape and installed properly it shouldn't be hard to seal them. If you don't have another door between them and your basement yes, you're going to want to do this before winter.

It does have a pump. And yes to bilco doors. No door between bilco and basement.

For the pvc-what size would you recommend the hole drilled, what size pvc? It’s a 1/4” tubing from the dehumidifier with the pump.

EPICAC
Mar 23, 2001

nwin posted:

Rigging a tube from the dehumidifier to outside for drainage.

My basement doesn’t have a drain and I’m tired of emptying the dehumidifier twice a day.

I think motronic recommended drilling a hole in my basement toward a downward sloping area and running the tube through that.

Here’s my basement setup. Would it be possible to just drill the hole next to the windows and run the tube into the basins outside? I don’t have a sump pump. Alternatively, is there something out there I could buy which would just be a spacer in the window for me to run the tubing through so I don’t have to drill a hole?

Lastly-I have barn doors/hatch opening to enter the basement as well as a stairwell in the house. I can see light when I look through the hatch opening. Is it worth getting that sealed up?



Do you have any existing condensate pumps in your basement? We have one that collects condensate from the HVAC air handler and one that collects from our boiler (they’re actually daisy chained) the downstream one is connected to our waste pipes (I think, maybe it drains outside I can’t really tell from what I have visibility to). I ran our dehumidifier’s hose into an empty slot on one of those.

EPICAC fucked around with this message at 18:21 on Jun 17, 2022

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

nwin posted:

It does have a pump. And yes to bilco doors. No door between bilco and basement.

For the pvc-what size would you recommend the hole drilled, what size pvc? It’s a 1/4” tubing from the dehumidifier with the pump.

Typical condensate plumbing for below grade pumps is 1/2". Any larger than that and you start getting into much larger pumps than you actually need to overcome the head pressure.

If you stub a piece of 1/2" through the foundation to a place you want this to drain you're in good shape for a more permanent solution for condensate later. But EPICAC brings up a good point: is there an AC coil down there already or something else that already has a condensate pump/drain piping? You can probably share it. Probably not considering your picture appears to be a hydronic oil boiler, but if you have condensate drains for mini splits or something they may end up down there.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

nwin posted:

So the white humidifier doesn’t have a pump. The grey one does. The barn doors are up 6 feet of stairs so the garden hose wouldn’t work since it’d have to travel up, hence buying the pump.

I can buy some door threshold seal for the doors and try to run the pump hose (1/4”) through that though.

Hard to tell, but is your ceiling more than 6' high? I would just get some pvc pipe and pvc glue and run a straight line from ground level outside, above the stairs, to your dehumidifier, now sitting on top of a 7' high bookshelf

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Put the humidifier on a small stand. Route the drain to drop water onto a small water wheel generating electricity and charging a small battery, hooked up to a small circulation pump in your new shrimp farm.

BonerGhost
Mar 9, 2007

StormDrain posted:

Put the humidifier on a small stand. Route the drain to drop water onto a small water wheel generating electricity and charging a small battery, hooked up to a small circulation pump in your new shrimp farm.

Every post will have to also go to the OSHA thread.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


EPICAC posted:

Do you have any existing condensate pumps in your basement? We have one that collects condensate from the HVAC air handler and one that collects from our boiler (they’re actually daisy chained) the downstream one is connected to our waste pipes (I think, maybe it drains outside I can’t really tell from what I have visibility to). I ran our dehumidifier’s hose into an empty slot on one of those.

Ceptin there's boiler heat in the picture so I assume no condensate for HVAC.
You could get a condensate pump on it's own and run it out of the house somewhere to let it drain.
Do you have a sump hole somewhere nearby?

Tremors
Aug 16, 2006

What happened to the legendary Chris Redfield, huh? What happened to you?!
Engineer is coming Wednesday, dumpster is being delivered Thursday, and crane is coming Friday. :toot:

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nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

No sump hole anywhere. But there is a condensate drip from the split unit. I have a split downstairs and central ac upstairs. No idea where central drains to.



Those two basement windows are the same windows from the other picture in the basement.

All my gutters go underground and drain thru a 4” pvc pipe about 100 feet away.

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