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In Hasselblad news, I just missed out on a 150mm Sonnar (the CF version) on eBay an hour ago. My bid of AUD$420.69 wasn't quite enough, sadly. There's a regular T* in good nick for about that much which I may get around to buying, but kinda tempted to put it off until I go to Japan later this year since the yen is in the toilet. Speaking of Japan, anyone want to talk me out of a Canon 7? I had around AU$200 in the budget for something new to shoot film with, and was originally looking for a 6x9 folder like a Moskva-5, but kinda decided against it since I don't have any of the accessories I need to actually run my 6x9 enlarger. On the other hand, I have a bunch of LTM lenses leftover from when I had an R3a (had a look at prices on buying another one of those and  ) that have been gathering dust since I switched to Fuji and bought some of the very nice X-mount primes. I was originally looking at Zorki's even though I remember not being very impressed with the Zorki 4 I had as a secondary body, then remembered the Canon RF's exist. I had a Canon P very briefly and remember being pretty impressed with the quality and brightness/size of the finder.
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Jun 5, 2022 10:33
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yeah put it off until you get to japan. do they really go for that much these days? i think i paid like 250 for my CF. Definitely get the CF over the C, though.
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Jun 6, 2022 06:56
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Wild EEPROM posted:yeah put it off until you get to japan. Australian dollars but yeah, Hasselblads have definitely been caught up in the most recent film rennaisance (I was astounded at what the R3a is selling for now, I think I paid/sold mine for less than US$500). It was pretty much mint to be fair. Are the CF's really worth it? The main difference I've seen is the Prontor shutter, but I've not had any issues with my older Compur shutter lenses.
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Jun 7, 2022 08:01
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Are the CF's really worth it? The main difference I've seen is the Prontor shutter, but I've not had any issues with my older Compur shutter lenses. I think they're optically the same so it's really more of how you feel about using them. Also I think the CFs are easier to repair and they're newer so the parts shouldn't break down so fast.
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Jun 8, 2022 03:12
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I got the go-ahead from the Melbourne consulate to apply for a visitor visa, which I sent away for on Friday, so getting pretty excited the trip. I'm seriously thinking about leaving my X-H1 kit at home and just bringing the Hasselblad and X100F. I was gonna just go browse the used camera shops (I mean, I still am) but have spent the entirety of my Sunday morning trawling Yahoo Auctions via Buyee and contemplating some barely-justifiable purchasing decisions. alkanphel posted:I think they're optically the same so it's really more of how you feel about using them. Also I think the CFs are easier to repair and they're newer so the parts shouldn't break down so fast. Ah, gotcha. I've got all non CF glass (well, my 80mm and 50mm are the older ones) so I was leaning towards keeping them the same, probably go with whatever's convenient. Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 03:35 on Jun 12, 2022 |
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Jun 12, 2022 03:31
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For future reference regarding Hasselblad lenses: https://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/HW/HWLds.aspx
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Jun 12, 2022 15:11
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was out of the film game for a bit, and figured i'd see what bulk film was going for. TriX - $149 at bh? HP5+ - $90 Kentmere - $71 jfc, i thought prices were insane 6 years ago.
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Jun 15, 2022 18:38
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The Modern Sky posted:was out of the film game for a bit, and figured i'd see what bulk film was going for. Kodak raised prices. Fuji stopped making film. Everything else is some bespoke Ferrania P30 unobtainium poo poo. Truly the darkest timeline. The real pro move right now is buying expired cine film and doing your own remjet removal. Super cheap and is easily C41'd after 
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Jun 16, 2022 23:11
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So, been a while since I posted here. Don't have a dark room setup in the (not quite so new anymore) house, but I'm finishing a room in the basement and did see that one of my Sprint concentrate bottles developed a leak and there's now a very crystalline thing on the concrete floor. I think it is the Speed Fixer. Any ideas on how to go about cleaning up? The official MSDS seems to assume liquid spillage.
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Jun 16, 2022 23:27
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Finally notched my first win on Yahoo! Auctions (a minty 250mm Sonnar for 2man, love me a long lens for landscapes). I'd forgotten about the whole "last minue bids extend the auction by 5-10 minutes" thing, I really hope eBay never figures that out. I got in a bidding war with someone over a Canon 7 bundle and ultimately conceded defeat after adding another hundred bucks or so to the pricetag for him. I think I am going to more seriously go after one though; it's basically either sell my LTM glass or buy another LTM or M-mount camera, and I can't really think of anything that represents better value for money than the 7. Anyways, here are some very fun, weird niche cameras I've come across:  The Fuji Cardia Rensha takes 16 images, originally marketed to golfers for studying and improving on their swing. These things seem to start at $200 which is a bit much for a gimmick camera.  The Fuji Work Record, a weatherproof and ruggidised camera that foreman would carry around construction sites to... record work. I might actually buy one of these because they're less than thirty bucks, might be fun to throw a big strap on and have dangling off me on the motorbike for snaps.  This goofy 6x9 SLR with interchangable lenses. Admittedly not that weird, I'm actually bidding on this one. I eventually want another 4x5 Graflex SLR for doing collodion portraits, but will probably wait until my next trip to the States to shop for one of those. carticket posted:So, been a while since I posted here. Don't have a dark room setup in the (not quite so new anymore) house, but I'm finishing a room in the basement and did see that one of my Sprint concentrate bottles developed a leak and there's now a very crystalline thing on the concrete floor. I think it is the Speed Fixer. Any ideas on how to go about cleaning up? The official MSDS seems to assume liquid spillage. Not sure about that specific one, but fixer is generally not terrible stuff*, I'd probably hit it with some hot water to dissolve it and then follow the liquid spillage instructions. *unless you're one of those psychopaths who fix their collodion plates with potassium cyanide Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jun 17, 2022 |
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Jun 17, 2022 22:35
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Ethics_Gradient posted:
I own one of these, it's currently under repair. The goofiest things are the back rolls on the film backwards, with the black side of the backing paper facing out, and it has a tensioning system for the mirror return that you need to adjust when you shoot horizontal vs vertical. The lenses are also uncoupled from the shutter system so you need to compose, stop down and then shoot. Can't wait until I'm done fixing mine, they're the only 6x9 slr made and I have some plans for photos with it as my other 6x9 is fixed lens. Megabound fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jun 17, 2022 |
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Jun 17, 2022 22:46
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Not sure about that specific one, but fixer is generally not terrible stuff*, I'd probably hit it with some hot water to dissolve it and then follow the liquid spillage instructions. Thanks for the idea. I'll give that a try tomorrow.
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Jun 17, 2022 23:16
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Megabound posted:I own one of these, it's currently under repair. The goofiest things are the back rolls on the film backwards, with the black side of the backing paper facing out, and it has a tensioning system for the mirror return that you need to adjust when you shoot horizontal vs vertical. The lenses are also uncoupled from the shutter system so you need to compose, stop down and then shoot. Oh, nice! There seems to be relatively little about them online, what sort of issues was yours having? That is very weird (and annoying) about the mirror tension, I was already a little bit unhappy with the lack of a rotating back, but I guess it's not the end of the world. Graflex did make a 2x3 version of their SLR, but I didn't want to deal with having to find a rollfilm back to fit it (or shimming my own). I think there's a lot of fun to be had with a 6x9 SLR adapting weird barrel lenses that don't quite cover 4x5!
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Jun 17, 2022 23:27
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jiffypop45 posted:Fuji stopped making film. Seriously? I've been buying superia and velvia pretty recently. I knowna bunch were discontinued in the last 5 years but afaik they're still in business
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Jun 18, 2022 16:06
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LimaBiker posted:Seriously? I've been buying superia and velvia pretty recently. I knowna bunch were discontinued in the last 5 years but afaik they're still in business Rumor is they stopped manufacturing it years ago, scrapped the equipment and have just been cutting down and selling off old deep frozen master rolls then “discontinuing” it as they get low on stock. I’ve not seen anything to make me believe that’s not true and the fact that new acros is made in the UK (probably by ilford) and that the new Fuji color 200 is made in the US with the same data sheet as Gold 200 makes me think that it is true.
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Jun 18, 2022 19:59
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Gone to eBay. I'm clearing out some stuff and was wondering if a  Canadian photographer might be interested in a Better Scanning film holder + ANR glass. It's for 120 film and fits an Epson v550[1] although if you're clever I bet you could adapt it to other scanners.Used but in very good condition: The holder & glass is $80 USD + $20 shipping to Canada.....let's say $60 CDN and I'll cover shipping? [1] - I'm thinking of putting my v550 on eBay but if someone here is interested, send me a PM and maybe we can work something out. Rot fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jun 26, 2022 |
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Jun 19, 2022 00:37
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The Modern Sky posted:was out of the film game for a bit, and figured i'd see what bulk film was going for. Me, having filled up half a chest freezer at $1-3 a roll:  I’m getting worried about the long-term viability of E-6 processing tho, b+w and rodinal will be around till after the roaches
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Jun 19, 2022 08:25
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I stumbled across a thread on LFF a few days ago, apparently the Betterscanning guy is very erratic at returning emails/shipping products, so you may well find someone wanting to pay a premium for one.Paul MaudDib posted:Me, having filled up half a chest freezer at $1-3 a roll: I had a look around on Google a few months ago and I'm not even sure anyone offers E-6 processing for sheet film in Australia anymore 
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Jun 19, 2022 10:43
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I stumbled across a thread on LFF a few days ago Maybe a dumb question, but is LFF largeformatphotography.info?
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Jun 19, 2022 13:17
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luchadornado posted:Maybe a dumb question, but is LFF largeformatphotography.info? Yeah - like a lot of forums it's not as active as it once was, but is a good repository of info. I think you have to be a member for 30 days before you can post in the for sale section though.
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Jun 19, 2022 13:30
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LFF is run by a bunch of transphobes
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Jun 19, 2022 19:04
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bellows lugosi posted:LFF is run by a bunch of transphobes Wait, what? ( Or is this an E6 joke? )
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Jun 19, 2022 19:08
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Cassius Belli posted:Wait, what? Real, apparently: https://richardman.photo/2018/10/my-online-encounter-with-transphobia/
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Jun 19, 2022 19:38
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theHUNGERian posted:Real, apparently: https://richardman.photo/2018/10/my-online-encounter-with-transphobia/ Ouch. Yeah, that's not great. Also... small world. I know Richard (a little bit); I remember hearing about the project vaguely but the LFF fallout is new to me.
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Jun 19, 2022 20:20
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theHUNGERian posted:Real, apparently: https://richardman.photo/2018/10/my-online-encounter-with-transphobia/ Transphobia sucks and etc etc but when someone writes this about themselves my eyes roll back so hard I pass out quote:To begin: I am a photographer who often works with 4×5 large format cameras for my personal work. Think Ansel Adams[...] Hi guys I often use a hockey stick when I play hockey. Think Wayne Gretzky.
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Jun 19, 2022 21:02
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VelociBacon posted:Transphobia sucks and etc etc but when someone writes this about themselves my eyes roll back so hard I pass out Fair, but I think "large format" is a lot less familiar to the general population (and even many photographers) than "hockey". Ansel Adams is probably the only reference point a lot of people have.
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Jun 19, 2022 21:13
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VelociBacon posted:Transphobia sucks and etc etc but when someone writes this about themselves my eyes roll back so hard I pass out I'm presuming this was written for a non photographer audience. In which case this seems reasonable. Adam's is going to be the person anyone knows if they know anyone at all. So it doesn't read as self important with those optics.
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Jun 19, 2022 21:25
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That sucks, hopefully people there have grown. I considered myself a fairly progressive, decent person back in 2016 and it's easy to see now that 2016 me still had to grow a lot.
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Jun 19, 2022 22:41
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I have some 4x5 HP 5 sheets from 2017 that have been in a cool dark place for probably the last 4 years - before that they were in a freezer. Anything special I need to do with them to use them?
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Jun 20, 2022 23:07
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luchadornado posted:I have some 4x5 HP 5 sheets from 2017 that have been in a cool dark place for probably the last 4 years - before that they were in a freezer. Anything special I need to do with them to use them? They're very dangerous now; processing them is more dangerous than opening a can of nitrocellulose film. You should send them to me for safe disposal. ( Nah, not really. Shoot them in good health. Maybe aim for a little bit of overexposure. )
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Jun 20, 2022 23:31
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Probably nothing special, rule of thumb is add 1 stop for each decade expired for non freezered film, yours should be fine box speed.
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Jun 20, 2022 23:34
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Is this a light leak? The negative is dark as hell, so it is overexposed, but I metered it the same way as all other frames which came out fine. I was shooting approximately at a right angle to the sun, so the angle formed by subject/camera/sun was about 90 degrees. I guess I should do test shots where my body does (not) block sunlight from hitting the WLF during the exposure? I don't think it's an issue with the focal plane shutter as that one goes left/right, not up/down.
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Jun 26, 2022 17:55
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Aw hell ya, won a Horizon 202 on Yahoo. I've wanted one since I got into film photography 15 years ago, and even tried building my own 35mm panoramic camera out of a dead Nimslo body (back when people were pretty much giving Nimslo's away) but couldn't justify the cost to myself. Fortunately the weak yen and missing hand grip got one down to what I was happy to pay. I'm gonna use a Gorillapod screwed into the tripod socket as the hand grip on my trip to keep my fingers out of the frame, then see if I can 3D print a new handle when I get home. Gonna see if I can improve on the original design and make it big enough to accommodate a couple rolls of 35mm film in there. Any Horizon goons? If anyone has a filter they're willing to send me, was thinking of seeing if I could copy and 3D print some of my own. theHUNGERian posted:Is this a light leak? The negative is dark as hell, so it is overexposed, but I metered it the same way as all other frames which came out fine. I was shooting approximately at a right angle to the sun, so the angle formed by subject/camera/sun was about 90 degrees. I guess I should do test shots where my body does (not) block sunlight from hitting the WLF during the exposure? I don't think it's an issue with the focal plane shutter as that one goes left/right, not up/down. My first reaction was shutter, but I guess not. That dark spot in the middle made me wonder if it wasn't development, but if the other frames are fine then it's probably not that either. I know it's not what you're asking about, but I'd guess those circular stains are from hard water drying on them, try using a wetting agent if you aren't already. Megabound posted:Probably nothing special, rule of thumb is add 1 stop for each decade expired for non freezered film, yours should be fine box speed. I've got some 50 year old Tri-X in 4x5 I'm gonna try and shoot in a month or two when I get back from my trip. I was thinking I'd do a test sheet the same way as I do plates - move the darkslide holder out in 5 steps, increasing the exposure for each one.
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Jun 27, 2022 13:02
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Ethics_Gradient posted:My first reaction was shutter, but I guess not. That dark spot in the middle made me wonder if it wasn't development, but if the other frames are fine then it's probably not that either. I know it's not what you're asking about, but I'd guess those circular stains are from hard water drying on them, try using a wetting agent if you aren't already. The other frames are fine. And yes, I am working on removing the water stains. I am already using distilled water and PhotoFlo, but I guess I am not using enough. Edit: Although, full disclosure, I develop using constant agitation and I use DD-X at 1:9 rather than the recommended 1:4 ratio. But since all other frames are fine, I don't think this is the root cause for the issue I am seeing. The only variable that is new is the camera (a 2000FCW). Edit2: I removed the back to check for issue that my casual visual inspection missed. Sure enough, all the screws needed about a quarter of a turn to be tight. theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 02:10 on Jun 28, 2022 |
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Jun 27, 2022 14:27
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Scored some Ferrania P30 on ebay. Ready for the contrast that will never make me want another.
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Jul 3, 2022 02:58
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I've got some 50 year old Tri-X in 4x5 I'm gonna try and shoot in a month or two when I get back from my trip. I was thinking I'd do a test sheet the same way as I do plates - move the darkslide holder out in 5 steps, increasing the exposure for each one. I have some experience with Tri X from the 1980s (so 40 year old) as bulk 35mm. I exposed it at 100 iso and stand developed in rodinal 1:100. The base fog and maximum density were pretty high, you'd need a scanner that can handle the high density if you go for 100. If it's 50 years old, i wouldn't go for any slower than 100 iso. I felt like 100 is already a bit on the overexposed side, but perhaps 100 with better development would be a better idea.   You can see vague variations in brightness. Somehow that's related to the perforation, as if there was a vertical movement of developer. A lot of noise is sensor noise of the bad scanner (read: camera) i had. One of those cheap drug store scanners wouldn't poke through the dense highlights, i needed my camera and a light box to 'burn' through it. A good modern scanner might do it properly, but still the density was super high. I once got the advice to add a chemical to the developer that reduces base fog, maybe a bromide thingie? Idk anymore. If you have a lot of those sheets it definitely is worth it to see how you can get the best results because although base fog is high, you can still get usable results out of old Tri X LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Jul 5, 2022 |
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Jul 5, 2022 20:01
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Benzotriazole is the restrainer you can use to reduce base fog, bromide drag is a development issue that crops up in stand where it looks like streaks coming from your sprockets.
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Jul 5, 2022 21:42
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Those vertical lines can show up in C41 when there are no sprockets, but I only see it in severely overexposed areas. A lab I have used calls it the staircase effect: https://www.richardphotolab.com/blog/post/common-film-scan-issues-and-what-you-can-do-about-them
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Jul 5, 2022 22:32
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Fat chance of getting an answer, I know, but I've been posting this on every film photography forum I know of: In 1997, when the writing was on the wall for sound Super 8mm, I bought ten cartridges of sound Ektachrome 160 Type-A film and froze them all. I've held on to that film, saving it for some landmark occasion. Well, 25 years later, I finally used one of the cartridges (after thawing it in the refrigerator for a week and then at room temperature for a few days). Now I'm faced with a bit of a conundrum. We all know that in that time Ektachrome died and then was reborn. New Ektachrome is an E-6 film. My old Type-A is EM-26. How should I process this film? Most signs seem to point to Rocky Mountain Film Lab, but while I've not attempted to contact them, I can't see any evidence of their still being in business these last ten years, and even before them, their reputation was about as poor as it gets. Pro8mm will do it. Their website suggests they'll cross-process it to a black and white negative, but while that makes perfect sense for Kodachrome, I don't see why it wouldn't be possible to get a color image from old Ektachrome. I contacted them and they did verify they'd process it, but were still ambiguous as to whether it'd be done in EM-26 (or EM-26-like) chemistry or traditional B&W. There's another lab. I distinctly remember reading about it somewhere, but I simply can't find it now. They were very expensive, but you know, it's not an every day thing for me -- I'm willing to spend a bit. (Edit: Film Rescue International -- that's them.) The other option would be to do it myself. I've got a Super 8 tank and a couple gallon's worth of E-6 chemistry. While it's meant to be processed in EM-26, I think Type-A should develop in modern E-6 regardless. The colors might not come out exactly right, but it would be in color. I know old Ektachrome has a remjet layer that E-6 isn't going to do anything about, so I'd have to manually scrub it off, which would be... tiresome, but doable. Ortho fucked around with this message at 09:52 on Jul 8, 2022 |
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Jul 8, 2022 09:43
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the Spain Virus posted:There's another lab. I distinctly remember reading about it somewhere, but I simply can't find it now. They were very expensive, but you know, it's not an every day thing for me -- I'm willing to spend a bit. (Edit: Film Rescue International -- that's them.) Spectra will also do small runs of EM26. Expensive, but you knew that getting in, and a highly mixed reputation on their customer service front (better than Rocky Mountain but that's a low, low bar). I'm not sure how they stack up to FRI (which has a pretty solid reputation if you're willing to wait on their posted turnaround times). If I were in your shoes, my first step would be to contact Martin Baumgarten. For a long time the community considered him the super 8 film expert (much the way Ron Mowrey was a general expert on an enormous swath of Kodak film history), and he was doing well-regarded EM26 processing out of his garage hobby business. Even if he's not doing it anymore he probably has some good insights and can point you where you need to go.
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Jul 8, 2022 17:14
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