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Ola
Jul 19, 2004

Captain McAllister posted:

Wouldn't brake cleaner strip the paint on the tank, though?

No but if you want to be cautious you can use something else, any alcohol based solvent will do.

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SEKCobra
Feb 28, 2011

Hi
:saddowns: Don't look at my site :saddowns:
IPA and a lot of scrubbing with a microfiber cloth probably would be safest.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

WD-40 is what I use for anything sticky.

Then just rinse off with bike shampoo and water. Job done.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

I got all geared up for a fight with that tank pad only to have it peel off easily with all the adhesive remaining pad-side when I got out there. It was so anti-climactic that I went after the VanVan's tank warning sticker, and got it down to the nice shiny black base finish (thank god it was under there).

opengl128 posted:

Magic erasers are abrasive, basically really really fine foam sandpaper.
Aaah, it didn't really cross my mind that this sponge would be effectively harder than the plastic, that must be the magic part.

Renaissance Robot
Oct 10, 2010

Bite my furry metal ass
How interchangeable/generic are lamda sensors, and how can I find out which one my bike runs?

Finally got a new set of pipes from Mass but I'm not sure if I'll be able to get the sensor out of the old exhaust, it seemed pretty well stuck last time I tried. I can see various sensors online for ~£30 but it's unclear if they're compatible, while getting one direct from kawasaki would sting for over £150. Most search results that actually mention the bike are just for delete kits though, it's a bit frustrating.


Please do not tell me to get a delete kit.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Renaissance Robot posted:

How interchangeable/generic are lamda sensors, and how can I find out which one my bike runs?

Finally got a new set of pipes from Mass but I'm not sure if I'll be able to get the sensor out of the old exhaust, it seemed pretty well stuck last time I tried. I can see various sensors online for ~£30 but it's unclear if they're compatible, while getting one direct from kawasaki would sting for over £150. Most search results that actually mention the bike are just for delete kits though, it's a bit frustrating.


Please do not tell me to get a delete kit.

It should be possible to get an equivalent generic sensor but you need to get yours out to measure dimensions etc. There are pretty much only two kinds of sensor found on factory bikes, one has one wire and the other has four wires. Past that basic configuration, most of the differences in part number are the wiring length and the connector on the end. You can't modify o2 sensor wiring so you have to get one with a cable at least as long as the original + a connector that fits.

Or just delete it.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
OK can someone please explain what is happening here?



I was at a local bike coffee night and came across this. I stared at this for a good two minutes trying to understand what is happening with this suspension and how it prevents road vibration being transferred directly to the body of the bike, but.. I gave up. Maybe from this angle it isn't immediately obvious how the inner ... fork? isn't just straight fixed to the steering components without dampening.

As with anything on a bike, I guess it's super simple once you see it in action, but at a standstill this just looks like some weird rube goldberg solution to suspension.

e: Every time I look at it I THINK I get it for a split second, but then I'm like "wait but no, it's fixed to the body :confused:"

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001






Thats called springer suspension. Its what bikes had before modern hydraulic forks.

Lets just get this out of the way: It has like 4 nanometers of travel, it sucks, and it only exists in 2022 for ~MUH HERITAGE~ people who want to downgrade their suspension to look like they rode in on a bike with a leather belt for a primary drive. Springer suspension at one time had its place and was very common.

Anyway, you can kind of see that there are two sets of rods, the bigger ones, to the left of the image, are what you could equate to a normal bikes forks. They are directly tied to the triple clamp, and they dont really move, except to steer left and right. The front two sets of rods can move up and down. The rocker arms at the bottom of the forks can pivot on the leftmost bolt, which pushes the front rods up and down. The front rods are tied to the springs up top, and the springs up top both push against the black plate that is in between the two sets of upper and lower springs. The plate is secured to the back legs/triple clamp, and does not move. That provides very rudimentary ride height control as well as bump control.

This system ultimately evolved to use hydraulic shocks instead of springs, and I would argue was presented in its absolute best form on Honda Cubs and Trail 90/110 bikes, before being completely scrapped and left in the history books by every manufacturer in favor of modern day forks

This is what it eventually evolved into via Honda. Modern (for the time) hydraulic shocks in place of the springs, completely enclosed in sheet metal

Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 15:18 on Jun 17, 2022

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Lets just get this out of the way: It has like 4 nanometers of travel, it sucks, and it only exists in 2022 for ~MUH HERITAGE~ people who want to downgrade their suspension to look like they rode in on a bike with a leather belt for a primary drive. Springer suspension at one time had its place and was very common.

What about super raked out choppers? I imagine a telescopic fork would hardly work.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Toe Rag posted:

What about super raked out choppers? I imagine a telescopic fork would hardly work.

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

sucks, and it only exists in 2022 for people who are still working through their DVR backlog of Orange County Choppers

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Oh I can’t read :smith:

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Is there something like a chain stretch gauge for the various sizes of motorcycle chain?
For bicycles I have a handy Park Tools chain stretch go/no go gauge.
I've got 5k miles on this 428 sized non oring aftermarket chain. I've been cleaning and oiling it regularly. No links are sticking, but I can pull it rearwards away from the chain ring about a quarter inch.
I've got another 428 chain on a KLX140 that's rusty and starting to stick links. I usually get that cleaned up with kerosene, but i can pull that one even further from the chain ring.

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

TotalLossBrain posted:

Is there something like a chain stretch gauge for the various sizes of motorcycle chain?
For bicycles I have a handy Park Tools chain stretch go/no go gauge.
I've got 5k miles on this 428 sized non oring aftermarket chain. I've been cleaning and oiling it regularly. No links are sticking, but I can pull it rearwards away from the chain ring about a quarter inch.
I've got another 428 chain on a KLX140 that's rusty and starting to stick links. I usually get that cleaned up with kerosene, but i can pull that one even further from the chain ring.

the internet says 2%. I would personally just replace them if you're asking the question. But if I'm honest I probably also wouldn't have asked the question myself in the first place. I tend to replace chains along with sprockets which is more frequent on dirt which is mostly what I ride so I feel confident your KLX140 is fine because it's ELEVEN HP of FURY won't care about a little stretch and you definitely want more slack in a dirtbike chain than street, and I have no idea on your other bike.

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022
What's the current state of helmet mounted cams? I have an older go pro session chin mounted and it's great but it's battery life is complete rear end for longer rides. I'm looking to upgrade

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Drift Ghost has the best battery life, 7-9 hours depending on which you get. I have a Sena 10c evo, but battery life is only 90min while recording continuously. It can record and charge at the same time, eg plugged into a small battery in your jacket.

Kwolok
Jan 4, 2022

Toe Rag posted:

Drift Ghost has the best battery life, 7-9 hours depending on which you get. I have a Sena 10c evo, but battery life is only 90min while recording continuously. It can record and charge at the same time, eg plugged into a small battery in your jacket.

This is promising. I am always nervous about side mounted because I feel it limits what it can see and I only wear a camera to protect myself in case of accidents, so its more about auditing then sick video (why battery life matters). But I think this may be a front runner for now.

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.

I've used a Drift camera as a dashcam for a couple years, it's perfect for that and pretty terrible as a "check out my sick rides" action cam. The side mount does eat into the FOV a tiny bit but I can't think of a time when it's interfered with capturing anything relevant.

RightClickSaveAs
Mar 1, 2001

Tiny animals under glass... Smaller than sand...


When my contour roam died (no longer made it looks like) I switched over to Gopro and just carry extra batteries to swap after about an hour, bit of a pain for just recording traffic but decent compromise and reminder to take a break anyway. Recording at 1080 30fps I get a bit over an hour out of one battery.

Toe Rag
Aug 29, 2005

Kwolok posted:

This is promising. I am always nervous about side mounted because I feel it limits what it can see and I only wear a camera to protect myself in case of accidents, so its more about auditing then sick video (why battery life matters). But I think this may be a front runner for now.

They make actual "dashcams" that you wire into your bike's electrical system so you don't have to worry about batteries.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMnu9RvWauQ

The chin-mount POV shot is cool for track or whatever but for road riding I think bike-center is going to be better, especially if you have both front- and rear-facing.

Here is some footage from a GoPro on my handlebars directly above my steering stem vs the 10c on my helmet, for your reference~

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tR8GvKlaJM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JsETQea7H4

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 
The dashcam thing is an interesting suggestion.

I have a helmet mount cam that I never use because I’m forever forgetting to charge/change batteries before I go out on a whim, and I never remember where my ultra-flat battery bank is to wire my face into my jacket. I could just run a floppy USB cable from my helmet to the USB charger on my bike but someone suggested it could be a neck-wrap situation in an off (tho I think the cable would yank out of the socket before it did any serious damage) so I never bothered.

I do have some interest because I can probably count on two hands the number of times I wish I’d had my GoPro on to review a sudden stop situation, or someone cutting me off or swerving, since riding season started.

Ola
Jul 19, 2004

some kinda jackal posted:

The dashcam thing is an interesting suggestion.

I have a helmet mount cam that I never use because I’m forever forgetting to charge/change batteries before I go out on a whim, and I never remember where my ultra-flat battery bank is to wire my face into my jacket. I could just run a floppy USB cable from my helmet to the USB charger on my bike but someone suggested it could be a neck-wrap situation in an off (tho I think the cable would yank out of the socket before it did any serious damage) so I never bothered.

I do have some interest because I can probably count on two hands the number of times I wish I’d had my GoPro on to review a sudden stop situation, or someone cutting me off or swerving, since riding season started.

You can get magnetic adapters for USB, it would be more practical and probably safer.

https://www.amazon.com/S-Magnetic-Compatible-I-Product-Smartphones/dp/B07QWC4FZD

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Ola posted:

You can get magnetic adapters for USB, it would be more practical and probably safer.

https://www.amazon.com/S-Magnetic-Compatible-I-Product-Smartphones/dp/B07QWC4FZD

this is what I use on my GoPro when I do timelapses on longer trips

Chris Knight
Jun 5, 2002

me @ ur posts


Fun Shoe

right arm posted:

this is what I use on my GoPro when I do timelapses on longer trips
How do you find them? The reviews are a real mixed bag lol

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

Chris Knight posted:

How do you find them? The reviews are a real mixed bag lol

worked fine for me / the GoPro. even charged my USB battery pack with no problems :shrug:

GriszledMelkaba
Sep 4, 2003


Whoa those would be great if they fit in the usb recess of a Sena unit. I'm gonna order that.

UCS Hellmaker
Mar 29, 2008
Toilet Rascal
So this is not meant to be I'm going. To do it, just bored searching stuff and wondering how much snakeoil or bike blowing up kits are out there.

So I've just been diving down a hole and finding some wierd performance mods, mainly these plug in chips that say they increase performance and fueltuning, mainly be messing with the fuel injection properties. "Supposedly" plug and play, seem sketchy as hell and likely to do nothing or actively gently caress up a motor.

Is that the case? I know a lot of people fall for scammy stuff like this trying to chase MORE POWER, just wondering how much is actually legit and how much is actually just snakeoil or actually detrimental to your bike.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Lol I've taken one of those apart before. It was a resistor and nothing else. I think it was supposed to attach to the battery or something.

Unless you're talking about legit 3rd party add-on ECM modules like a PowerCommander. These do alter fuel and ignition curves and work as advertised (and are often necessary for other mods like exhaust, intake, etc)
They can be plug and play if preprogrammed by the vendor. Sometimes you have to connect a computer to it to configure it.

I've got one on my kid's KLX300R. The bike is stock otherwise and this add-on improved acceleration noticably. More importantly, the exhaust no longer gets blistering hot which was the real pain in the rear end.

I have a Bazzaz (?) Fuel controller for my Monkey to enable the other modifications - pipe, intake, ported head.

TotalLossBrain fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Jun 21, 2022

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.
Some of them just make your ambient air sensor read colder so the bike runs rich. This is clever because it works the first time. It is dumb because your bike is smart and figures it out and you’re out $100.

The ones that actually work are often good though. Yamaha on their mx bikes (closed course only) has a Bluetooth connection you can use to mess with your fueling on your phone.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I'm not much for washing, waxing and polishing but if I ever get around to it I wonder what to do about the gigantic chromed muffler on my CBR300R. It's getting less shiny by the day and the car shampoo I use half-heartedly and sporadically on the rest of the bike won't cut it. How to get it clean without scratching it up needlessly? (One particularly bad spot used to be part my pants).

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Nevr-Dull is your friend for that

http://www.nevrdull.com/index.html

E: I missed the part about cleaning melted pants. You can use something harsh, its metal, try brake cleaner or something like that and scrub it with a microfiber

builds character
Jan 16, 2008

Keep at it.

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Nevr-Dull is your friend for that

http://www.nevrdull.com/index.html

E: I missed the part about cleaning melted pants. You can use something harsh, its metal, try brake cleaner or something like that and scrub it with a microfiber

fwiw, I’ve read oven cleaner and it worked on not-chrome but I don’t know about chrome.

some kinda jackal
Feb 25, 2003

 
 

some kinda jackal posted:

I found that my throttle cable housing rotates slightly with some throttle use such as heavy acceleration or going WOT. Not drastically, but over a day’s use I have found it starts to overlap the starter button. I had wrapped electrical tape on the handlebars before tightening the housing to keep exactly this from happening, when I installed the controls onto my handlebars, but it seems to not have had much effect. The housing is as clamped down as I can get it. Any suggestions here? Maybe electrical tape is the wrong material, or maybe I just need more of whatever material I have?

In the mean time I’ll probably just ziptie the housing to the mirror if I can figure out how.

Closing the loop here:

Just assumed it was the tape on the handlebars but when I went to inspect everything today it turns out one of the screws holding both parts of the throttle cable assembly together had rattled itself out (??) so the whole thing was just hanging on by the top. No wonder it was virtually spinning in place on acceleration.

Found a matching spare at HD and applied threadlocker to both. Took the opportunity to go over every other bolt holding the controls in place, and pretty much anything else I could visibly see, to make sure they were tight. Thankfully that was the only one.

Normally I'd be the first to call myself out as just "lol that idiot forgot to put the screw in" but I know for a fact it was there when I added my quadlock mount a month or two ago, so I'll just call myself out for clearly not tightening or torquing it sufficiently.

But still ended up just putting a small dremel bit through both the housing and the handlebar and driving in a thin screw to keep it from spinning regardless. I think PO had ground off the alignment nub previously since I didn't see any evidence of one. Bike did come with aftermarket bars so wouldn't surprise me.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

builds character posted:

fwiw, I’ve read oven cleaner and it worked on not-chrome but I don’t know about chrome.

Oven cleaner worked very well for me on chrome to remove melted bike cover, but I ended up wishing I'd been way way WAY more paranoid about overspray and covering the rest of the bike with wet rags before I started, because the fine mist also permanently etched the aluminum engine.

GriszledMelkaba
Sep 4, 2003


GriszledMelkaba posted:

Whoa those would be great if they fit in the usb recess of a Sena unit. I'm gonna order that.

Looks like it fits the annoying recessed plug on the Sena. Thanks for the recommendation

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

Remy Marathe posted:

Oven cleaner worked very well for me on chrome to remove melted bike cover, but I ended up wishing I'd been way way WAY more paranoid about overspray and covering the rest of the bike with wet rags before I started, because the fine mist also permanently etched the aluminum engine.

Thanks for the warning. I'll apply it carefully. Or just as likely I won't apply anything and keep ignoring the dirt/melted pants and just ride.

Pinny
Sep 8, 2006
XSR700 (/ MT-07) forks...

I've finally decided to upgrade the XSR's suspension as I'm getting a little sick of it feeling like its trying to kill me at speed. Plus I'm probably a good 20-30lb's heavier now than when i got it.

I've got K-Tech Razor-R Lite on the way to replace the stock shock. But I don't know what to do with the forks.

Whats the usual goto upgrades for the MT/XSR? I feel like full blown cartridges are probably overkill, and not to mention, expensive. Whats a decent middleground?

The bikes my dailly rider, and i'm on the Isle of Man, so crappy roads and no speed limits are the norm.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Racetech cartridge emulators.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Slavvy posted:

Racetech cartridge emulators and springs.

It's easy to do yourself if you have some fork experience and a drill press.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Gorson posted:

It's easy to do yourself if you have some fork experience and a drill press.

Lol 'drill press' look at this fucken princess (god I wish I had one)

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Captain McAllister
May 24, 2001


Invalido posted:

I'm not much for washing, waxing and polishing but if I ever get around to it I wonder what to do about the gigantic chromed muffler on my CBR300R. It's getting less shiny by the day and the car shampoo I use half-heartedly and sporadically on the rest of the bike won't cut it. How to get it clean without scratching it up needlessly? (One particularly bad spot used to be part my pants).

Loosely balled tin foil plus blue Dawn & water.

The aluminum is softer than chrome and the soapy water gives you glide.

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