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Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
What green colors are you trying? I've noticed that bright green paints have poo poo for coverage and need a lot of layers.

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Gato The Elder
Apr 14, 2006

Pillbug

Floppychop posted:

Turns out I'm pretty bad at painting bright colors, and I'm going to give up entirely on using yellow paint and just use yellow inks over white/grey from now on.


I like to do a heavy yellow dry brush over a really warm brown basecoat; you can follow up it up with a final yellow glaze/wash if you're feeling spicy.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Gato The Elder posted:

I like to do a heavy yellow dry brush over a really warm brown basecoat; you can follow up it up with a final yellow glaze/wash if you're feeling spicy.

Yeah also ochre is a good base color for yellow. If you're priming bright with a zenithal I also like iyanden yellow as an initial base color before yellows and golds.

Mercurius
May 4, 2004

Amp it up.

Floppychop posted:

We're starting a Necromunda league so I decided to break out of my normally dull colored box and attempt to paint some Escher gangers with brighter colors.

This is a test one that I did quick attempting to do my take on the studio scheme without the insane stuff like cheetah print and zebra stripes.



Turns out I'm pretty bad at painting bright colors, and I'm going to give up entirely on using yellow paint and just use yellow inks over white/grey from now on. I need to clean up the edges of the green streak of hair, and put a bit more work into the skin, but I'm at a loss of what to do further to make it look less meh.

I'm thinking of changing up the shirt color to a color that's not a bitch to paint, but I'm creatively bankrupt and can't think of something while still letting me go nuts on different hair colors.
GW has some new contrast paints they announced last week that include some incredibly vibrant yellow, purple and burgundy with what looks like good coverage.

Obviously I’d say to wait until we see some people actually able to test them out but they might do what you want.

Commissar Canuck
Aug 5, 2008

They made fun of us! And it's Stanley Cup season!

Finally finished this guy. The decals were a pain in the rear end but they were definitely worth it

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Commissar Canuck posted:

Finally finished this guy. The decals were a pain in the rear end but they were definitely worth it



hell yeah that looks clean as gently caress. nice work.

Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.
I am trying to branch out from the GW citadel line of paints so I bought a vallejo starter set with some basic colors, and it is proving really challenging. The paints seem much more viscous, and I constantly feel that they are under or over thinned, and never proper. I dont know if this is to be expected as part of the learning curve, or if this situation is unique. Using the vallejo paints make me feel like an absolute beginner again. Most of my attempts have been to put on a white undercoat on a dreadnaught before introducing a yellow contrast. White citadels are a challenge for me as well, but they are usually really watery and chunky, and this seems the opposite. Is there something I am missing about thinning paints outside of citadel or in general? I usually just dab my brush in the water cup, and swish it in the paint blob a few times.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

Bored Online posted:

I am trying to branch out from the GW citadel line of paints so I bought a vallejo starter set with some basic colors, and it is proving really challenging. The paints seem much more viscous, and I constantly feel that they are under or over thinned, and never proper. I dont know if this is to be expected as part of the learning curve, or if this situation is unique. Using the vallejo paints make me feel like an absolute beginner again. Most of my attempts have been to put on a white undercoat on a dreadnaught before introducing a yellow contrast. White citadels are a challenge for me as well, but they are usually really watery and chunky, and this seems the opposite. Is there something I am missing about thinning paints outside of citadel or in general? I usually just dab my brush in the water cup, and swish it in the paint blob a few times.

Are you using a wet palette?

Floppychop
Mar 30, 2012

Spanish Manlove posted:

What green colors are you trying? I've noticed that bright green paints have poo poo for coverage and need a lot of layers.

I generally go to GW moot green or Vallejo Livery Green for my bright greens. They seem to work fairly well.

I'm not sure how well a drybrush technique would work on a tank top that's going to be behind weapons. The next model I'm going to try my normal go-to technique of inks for yellow.

Yellow truly is the devil's color.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Bored Online posted:

I am trying to branch out from the GW citadel line of paints so I bought a vallejo starter set with some basic colors, and it is proving really challenging. The paints seem much more viscous, and I constantly feel that they are under or over thinned, and never proper. I dont know if this is to be expected as part of the learning curve, or if this situation is unique. Using the vallejo paints make me feel like an absolute beginner again. Most of my attempts have been to put on a white undercoat on a dreadnaught before introducing a yellow contrast. White citadels are a challenge for me as well, but they are usually really watery and chunky, and this seems the opposite. Is there something I am missing about thinning paints outside of citadel or in general? I usually just dab my brush in the water cup, and swish it in the paint blob a few times.

I'm assuming you're using Vallejo Game Color paints right?
My experience with Vallejo Game Color is that right out of the bottle they're slightly thinner than Citadel paint right out of the pot. Maybe you need to mix them better? Try adding a glass bead or hematite ball to the bottles to get them better mixed.

My general process using a palette (wet or dry) is to put a couple drops of paint on my palette, then put a drop of water near to it but not touching it, then use my brush to push a little bit of water into the paint at a time until it gets to the consistency I want it.
Having a pipette or a squirt bottle to put water on your palette is helpful for this.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something

AndyElusive posted:

Finished a Primaris Watch Lieutenant last night :woop:



This is great!

Bored Online
May 25, 2009

We don't need Rome telling us what to do.

Spanish Manlove posted:

Are you using a wet palette?

Yeah. I have the tiny army painter one and seem to use it pretty well for citadel paints.

Bucnasti posted:

I'm assuming you're using Vallejo Game Color paints right?
My experience with Vallejo Game Color is that right out of the bottle they're slightly thinner than Citadel paint right out of the pot. Maybe you need to mix them better? Try adding a glass bead or hematite ball to the bottles to get them better mixed.

It looks like all of my vallejo paints are model color. Maybe that is a mistake, but its what the flgs sells. Luckily I have some mixing balls on order so I will give that a crack when they come in. Thanks!

a7m2
Jul 9, 2012


Bored Online posted:

Yeah. I have the tiny army painter one and seem to use it pretty well for citadel paints.

It looks like all of my vallejo paints are model color. Maybe that is a mistake, but its what the flgs sells. Luckily I have some mixing balls on order so I will give that a crack when they come in. Thanks!

Model Color is fine. Just make sure you give them a really good shake and thin them appropriately. I use both Model and Game Color

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

mllaneza posted:

You all want a bag of 8mm hematite beads to drop into your larger bottles of stuff. They're a great aid in loosening stuff up and getting it off the bottom. I've got three in a 10oz bottle of Vallejo primer and they really let me feel how gunked up the bottom of the bottle is. After about a minute it's gone loose and another minute or two and it's downright frothy and ready to go into the airbrush.

They're really good for your paints chakra too

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Painted a loonboss


Rock buddies!

Winklebottom fucked around with this message at 19:57 on Jun 22, 2022

Beffer
Sep 25, 2007

Winklebottom posted:

Painted a loonboss


Rock buddies!


I love everything about these gobbos. The sculpts, the colour scheme and the superb paint job.

They remind me of pre-schoolers on way too much sugar.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Well it finally happened after 4(?) years of having my badger 105: airbrush fell on the floor and bent the needle slightly. I was able to straighten it decently well to the naked eye, but not sure how much damage there is to the head. I'll have to experiment with it later to see if it still sprays smoothly.

Replacement needles in the "detail" size that comes with the brush seem to be sold out in most places unfortunately.

Ironically I have never had to do a deep clean of the airbrush since I flush it with a poo poo ton of cleaner and water after every session, so this will be the first time I disassemble it beyond just removing the needle.

WorldIndustries fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Jun 22, 2022

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
How are the new weapons for Horus Hersey painted to have that dulled metallic look?

Unrelated, but I discovered a neat and easily way to get a Salamander or other green without having any green. Now I’m sure this is pretty basic color wheel and color mixing stuff, but I’m still learning that. So I had an extra space marine that I primed in army painters ultramarine blue spray, I then decided to do a paint test with Iyanden Yellow and look at this. The yellow is only from goofing around with Yriel Yellow. Otherwise great way to use up any blue primer and still get green. :)

Marshal Prolapse fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Jun 23, 2022

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Marshal Prolapse posted:

How are the new weapons for Horus Hersey painted to have that dulled metallic look?

Unrelated, but I discovered a neat and easily way to get a Salamander or other green without having any green. Now I’m sure this is pretty basic color wheel and color mixing stuff, but I’m still learning that. So I had an extra space marine that I primed in army painters ultramarine blue spray, I then decided to do a paint test with Iyanden Yellow and look at this. The yellow is only from goofing around with Yriel Yellow. Otherwise great way to use up any blue primer and still get green. :)



Any particular image you have in mind for the horus heresy weapons?

Generally any of the standard shade washes like nuln oil will dry very matte, and so they naturally dull a metallic. Normally I highlight the raised metal areas after washing but you can leave them as is for a dull look. You could also thin the wash a bit so that it doesn't darken much beyond the very lowest recesses

Sojenus
Dec 28, 2008

Completed a big alien robot to go with my other big stompy robot. First time using contrast paints for anything to do most of the pink bits, and I think it worked fairly well.

Ghislaine of YOSPOS
Apr 19, 2020

Winklebottom posted:

Painted a loonboss


Rock buddies!


This looks awesome! I got some glow in the dark crystals and am wondering if I should paint them--did you buy yours like that or paint em? As it turns out the crystals look like complete poo poo when it's not dark lol.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

Booyah- posted:

Any particular image you have in mind for the horus heresy weapons?

Generally any of the standard shade washes like nuln oil will dry very matte, and so they naturally dull a metallic. Normally I highlight the raised metal areas after washing but you can leave them as is for a dull look. You could also thin the wash a bit so that it doesn't darken much beyond the very lowest recesses

Yep, the way it is on the PR and boxes.




Like I can tell leadbelcher is clearly used for the barrels, but the other parts such as coils or accessory‘s that have this kind of dull look.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





I think one way to achieve that dulled metallic look is to start with a matt black and then slowly build up to the desired color with successive dry brushing.

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I think one way to achieve that dulled metallic look is to start with a matt black and then slowly build up to the desired color with successive dry brushing.

Yeah that's how you would do it with traditional paints.
You could also do it pretty easily with Tamaya Weathering Master powders.

Koopa Kid
Aug 21, 2007



Eavy Metal recipes are often pretty complicated, I’d imagine there’s multiple washes/filters applied to each of those parts. All I know for sure is that Darren Latham seems to love putting basilicanum grey on metals and I’d probably try that to start.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

I just tell myself that the bullshots are photoshopped and I feel better about not being able to replicate it

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN
I just try to get better instead.

Loden Taylor
Aug 11, 2003

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I think one way to achieve that dulled metallic look is to start with a matt black and then slowly build up to the desired color with successive dry brushing.

Even a single heavy dry brush pass is enough, and if you change the base coat, you get different metal effects. Corvus Black -> Leadbelcher dry brush -> Nuln Oil wash will have a dull iron look, like a railroad track, but if you base with a medium grey instead, it'll look more like steel.

Dry brushing over grey/black is how I prefer to do large areas of metal, since it makes the surface less uniformly shiny, and after a wash it still has a shine without being overly reflective.

Loden Taylor fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jun 23, 2022

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Spanish Manlove posted:

I just try to get better instead.

Well, we all are getting better regardless. I just mean I'm not going to be the Tim Henson of painters in an afternoon session.

Winklebottom
Dec 19, 2007

Beffer posted:

I love everything about these gobbos. The sculpts, the colour scheme and the superb paint job.

They remind me of pre-schoolers on way too much sugar.

Ghislaine of YOSPOS posted:

This looks awesome! I got some glow in the dark crystals and am wondering if I should paint them--did you buy yours like that or paint em? As it turns out the crystals look like complete poo poo when it's not dark lol.

Thanks! I paint my crystals since they're a translucent blue otherwise and it just looks off if they're not painted like everything else.

Maneck
Sep 11, 2011

Sojenus posted:

Completed a big alien robot to go with my other big stompy robot. First time using contrast paints for anything to do most of the pink bits, and I think it worked fairly well.



This is amazingly good.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Woah dropzone commander got WEIRD, that rocks.

Love the graffiti on the goblin rock too!

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

Marshal Prolapse posted:

Yep, the way it is on the PR and boxes.




Like I can tell leadbelcher is clearly used for the barrels, but the other parts such as coils or accessory‘s that have this kind of dull look.

i think the dull look is iron warriors.

Marshal Prolapse
Jun 23, 2012

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS

My Spirit Otter posted:

i think the dull look is iron warriors.

Thanks! I don’t think I have that so I’ll pick it up.

Grizzled Patriarch
Mar 27, 2014

These dentures won't stop me from tearing out jugulars in Thunderdome.



If you want an even duller, more beat up metallic look, Vallejo's Burnt Iron is great and applies like a dream:

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

My Spirit Otter posted:

i think the dull look is iron warriors.

I think so too. Specifically I think it's Iron Warriors then a shade of Nuln or even Black Templar with either 50/50 mix highlights of Iron Warriors with Stormhost Silver or just straight up Stormhost on its own.

The rusty worn color I think might also be shades of Wyldwood and/or glaze layers of Rhinox Hide and/or Mournfang Brown.

Can you tell I've been reading lots of Citidel paint guides?

AndyElusive fucked around with this message at 18:45 on Jun 23, 2022

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.

AndyElusive posted:

I think so too. Specifically I think it's Iron Warriors then a shade of Nuln or even Black Templar with either 50/50 mix highlights of Iron Warriors with Stormhost Silver or just straight up Stormhost on its own.

The rusty worn color I think might also be shades of Wyldwood and/or glaze layers of Rhinox Hide and/or Mournfang Brown.

Can you tell I've been reading lots of Citidel paint guides?

i think iron warrior with a lahmian medium over top to dull it down a bit.

Wondermoose
Aug 17, 2009
I finished up some Howling Banshees. I'm currently trying to find methods to get a Table Top Standard that I'm okay with. These Banshees were pretty quick, for me at least. Probably about two hours per model. That marble effect on the bases was completely unintentional, a happy accident I decided to keep.



I also thought it would be kind of fun to take this picture below. Eldar were one of my first armies, so I still have some really old ones I painted back before I was old enough to drive. I lined them up to show my progression as a painter over the years.



From left to right, the time line is approximately 2005>2007>2010>(Break from 40k)>2017>2022. Those first ones were done before a time of YouTube tutorials. So improvement was just trail and error, and the instructions in the Codexes. You can also see my life-long quest to paint gems. I think I've finally got it figured out, just took a decade.

I've noticed there are a lot of new people getting into the hobby in this thread, which is awesome. I've also noticed that some new people get very discouraged when they're first models don't look as good as they think they should. I hope that the image of those first models I did really shows that you new dudes sharing your models are actually doing really great! I wish my first models looked as good as your first ones. There are some really good tools and resources to learn to paint now-a-days, and some of you guys that started just two years ago are already better than me!

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
I appreciate you showing that time line, thank you. Also, I really like the headpiece on the last model.

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Marx Headroom
May 10, 2007

AT LAST! A show with nonono commercials!
Fallen Rib
Yeah, the single piece of advice that's helped me most in this hobby so far is: when you see a ridiculous paint job, don't let it discourage you. Find inspiration in it. If the piece affects you strongly enough that you feel inadequate, focus on the aspects of the work that impressed you and commit to playing with those ideas later.

A lot of art schools (especially in China) apparently focus on reproducing the work of masters, so don't be afraid to "copy" someone else's ideas either (as long as you don't take credit for the idea of course).

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